Ensemble designed for Pattie Boyd
The Fool
1967
The Fool were a Dutch design collective led by Marijke Koger and Simon Posthuma, best known for their work with the Beatles, which included designing the tunics the band wore for their 1967 television broadcast of All You Need Is Love, decorating John Lennon's piano and George Harrison's Mini, painting a circular mural at the Harrisons' Surrey home Kinfauns, designing the inner sleeve of the Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band LP and, most famously, painting a three-story psychedelic mural on the facade of the Beatles' short lived Apple Boutique in London's Baker Street, which was subsequently painted over by order of the local council. Pattie Boyd and her sister Jenny were fans of the collective and would model their clothing designs for the Apple Boutique. According to Boyd, this brocade ensemble was custom made for her by The Fool and she recalls wearing it during a trip to Greece with all four Beatles in July 1967 to explore the possibility of buying a set of Greek islands.
Christie's: The Pattie Boyd Collection (Lot 13)
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Veiled Woman
Jean-Baptiste Santerre
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solid perfume necklace in the shape of a mussel from estée lauder, 1974
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FWIW, "mauve" was one of the coal-tar dyes developed in the mid-19th century that made eye-wateringly bright clothing fashionable for a few decades.
It was an eye-popping magenta purple
HOWEVER, like most aniline dyes, it faded badly, to a washed-out blue-grey ...
...which was the color ignorant youngsters in the 1920s associated with “mauve”.
(This dress is labeled "mauve" as it is the color the above becomes after fading).
They colored their vision of the past with washed-out pastels that were NOTHING like the eye-popping electric shades the mid-Victorians loved. This 1926 fashion history book by Paul di Giafferi paints a hugely distorted, I would say dishonest picture of the past.
Ever since then this faded bluish lavender and not the original electric eye-watering hot pink-purple is the color associated with the word “mauve”.
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I was about to be irritated at a shitty "kids' education" website on 1770s clothing but then I learned that there's a staymaker buried at King's Chapel and now I'm just delighted to know the gravesite of a clothing worker from that era and I want to take him flowers
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@lingerie_addict has a really cool thread on ancient fashion over on twitter.
Those source links are here
cambridge.org
Youtube
ucl.ac.uk
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Girl's Dress
c.1885
United States
The MET (Accession Number: 2009.300.2489a, b
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Dress
c. 1930
Velvet trimmed with silk and lace
Label ‘Norman Hartnell 10, Bruton Street. W.’
Acquired from Helena Bonham Carter
The John Bright Collection
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Audrey Marnay in Christian Lacroix couture.
Vogue, March 1999
Photographed by Arthur Elgort
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Tintype of what appears to be a light-hearted spot of stabbing between friends, circa 1880
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