#Fashion Jewels

[fashionbooksmilano]

Coppola e Toppo Fashion Jewels

Deanna Farneti Cera

photographs by Gian Paolo Barbieri, Henry Clark, Franco Rubartelli

Antique Coll.Club, Woodbridge 2009, 287 pages, 25x25,5cm, ISBN 978-1-85149-611-2

euro 50,00

email if you want to buy [email protected]

This book is a recognition of the talent of Lyda Coppola, designer and owner of Coppola e Toppo, a costume Jewellery company which was active in Milan from 1948-1986

A true work of passion, this book lovingly charts the creative path of Italian jewelry designers Lyda Toppo and Bruno Coppola, famed for their intricate over the top designs of clustered beads. Sumptuous illustrations complement a well-researched and accessible text. The duo designed for Valentino, Dior, Balenciaga and Pucci and many more, and worn by countless Hollywood stars and on catwalks the world over. Deanna Farneti Cera first glimpsed the jewels of Coppola e Toppo in 1987 at an auction house in Milan. Instantly fascinated by their diversity, the evocative power of the colors, the wealth of shapes and motifs and the multitude of materials used, she soon developed an overwhelming passion for the stunning creations. This book, researched over the last twenty years, is the culmination of that passion and a reconstruction of the creative path of Coppola e Toppo, charting their inspiring partnership from their first appearance in VOGUE in 1948, through to Lyda's death in 1986. This book lovingly charts the creative path of Italian designers Lyda Toppo and Bruno Coppola, famed for their intricate and over-the-top creations designed for Valentino, Dior, Balenciaga, Pucci, and others, and worn by countless Hollywood stars and on catwalks worldwide. 

Questo volume è un omaggio al talento di Lyda Coppola in Toppo (Venezia, 1915 – Milano, 1986), la disegnatrice e fondatrice, insieme al fratello, della Coppola e Toppo, un’azienda di gioielli per la moda attiva a Milano dal 1948 al 1986. Sono proprio i complementi creati da Lyda – innanzitutto bijoux, ma anche borse, sciarpe, cinture, foulard – a dare il tocco finale a molte delle mises proposte dagli stilisti che hanno segnato la Haute Couture francese della fine degli anni Quaranta e dagli stilisti della moda boutique italiana degli anni Cinquanta, Sessanta e Settanta. All’inizio della carriera, Lyda Coppola, forse a causa delle sue origini – madre triestina, di origine ebraica, padre napoletano – caratterizza la sua produzione combinando, in modo inusuale, materiali tipicamente italiani provenienti da parti diverse della penisola, come le perle in vetro veneziano e il corallo di Torre del Greco. Subito dopo la fine della Seconda guerra mondiale, a partire dal 1948, i bijoux di Coppola e Toppo diventano famosi prima a Parigi (Elsa Schiaparelli, Jacques Fath, Edward Molyneaux, Robert Piquet, Pierre Balmain, Jeanne Lanvin, Nina Ricci, Cristobal Balenciaga, Jacques Heim sono i loro primi clienti) e poi negli Stati Uniti, dove – a cominciare dai primi anni Cinquanta e per almeno quindici anni – si riversa la maggior parte della loro produzione. La stampa, da «Vogue» Francia a «Vogue» America, e con i redazionali su «Harper’s Bazaar», «Women’sWear Daily», «The New York Times», «Herald Tribune» accompagna la presentazione nelle città americane più importanti delle due collezioni annuali di Coppola e Toppo, accrescendone il successo commerciale. Dai primi anni Cinquanta, Lyda Coppola crea i gioielli per Emilio Pucci e per la gran parte degli stilisti della moda italiana: Roberto Capucci, Germana Marucelli, Carosa, Biki, Sorelle Fontana, Pino Lancetti, Patrick de Barentzen, Federico Forquet, Enzo, Ken Scott, Valentino, Krizia. Il connubio dei bijoux Coppola e degli abiti firmati viene ripreso da straordinari servizi fotografici di Gian Paolo Barbieri (autore di oltre 40 scatti, qui riprodotti), Henry Clark, Franco Rubartelli, pubblicati sulle riviste di moda internazionali. La storia di Coppola e Toppo si dipana in contemporanea alla crescita e affermazione della moda italiana, passata da una condizione di artigianato nei primi anni Cinquanta a un’industria fiorente e conosciuta in tutto il mondo negli anni Ottanta come Made in Italy. Oggi i bijoux e i complementi di Coppola e Toppo rientrano nei collectibles più ambiti dai collezionisti di gioielli d’epoca.

18/01/24

#Coppola e Toppo #Fashion Jewels #Deanna Farneti Cera #jewelry books #costume jewellery #fashion books #fashionbooksmilano

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