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scotianostra · 3 years

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21st September 1745 saw The Battle of Prestonpans.

The Battle of Prestonpans was the first significant conflict in the Jacobite Rising commonly known as the ‘45.

The subject of my earlier post, Walter Scott made the Battle of Prestonpans the centrepiece of his first novel Waverley, and another Edinburgh literary giant, Robert Louis Stevenson looks back on its importance in Kidnapped. The national bard Robert Burns also wrote about it and has connections with the area, his brother worked in Prestonpans and he is remembered around the town to this day.

The battle later reached the big screen with David Niven’s Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1948, and more recently Diana Gabaldon’s Outlander novels and TV series have brought the Battle of Prestonpans to audiences all around the world.

The victory became a symbol of Scottish resistance to British government rule, and of the negligence of Hanoverian military commanders.

Thanks to local knowledge and a thick haar that drifted in from the Firth of Forth, the Jacobite army filed along a narrow path during the wee small hours giving them the element of surprise over the redcoat army and General “Johnny Cope”

At 6am around 2,000 men drawn to the cause of Prince Charles Edward Stuart clashed with a larger force of some 3,000 government troops under the command of Sir John Cope close to the Firth of Forth in East Lothian.

Cope’s men, originally facing South, were forced to rapidly wheel around to face the Jacobites, who charged unexpectedly from the East.

British dragoon regiments, stationed on either flank of Cope’s infantry, abandoned their posts soon after fighting began, leaving the foot soldiers dangerously exposed.

Surrounded on three sides, the remaining Hanoverian force was swept aside in a little over ten minutes.

Hundreds of government troops were killed or wounded, and a further 1,500 taken prisoner by the Prince’s men, Jacobite casualties were light.

But while the rout took just a few minutes, Jacobite commanders had been far less confident about victory in the days leading up to it. There had been a few skirmishes, including at High Bridge in Lochaber in August, but this was the first large-scale confrontation with a sizeable Hanoverian force.

The Hanoverians were professional soldiers, infantry and dragoons, the forces at Cope's disposal were - or should have been - competent.

In contrast, contemporary accounts emphasise the role of poor Highlanders, who marched south with Prince Charles, in the Jacobite force. If the Jacobites had lost it would have been game over, especially since there was much dissension among the senior Jacobite commanders in the hours before the battle.

Several accounts of the battle emphasise how spooked Cope’s men were by the Highlanders, as well as their struggle to deploy heavy cannon and cavalry that should have given them an advantage. Cope is said to have been so frustrated by his artillery units that he dismissed them and sent word to Edinburgh for replacements. They did not arrive in time.

Despite being cleared of any negligence at a court martial in 1746, Sir John Cope’s reputation as a military commander was destroyed by Prestonpans, and never recovered.

Immortalised in Adam Skirving’s famous Scots song “Hey, Johnnie Cope, Are Ye Waking Yet?, Cope was characterised in contemporary accounts as a coward and a buffoon.

Fye now Johnnie, get up and run, The Highland bagpipes mak a din, It's better tae sleep in a hale skin. For 'twill be a bloody morning.

When Johnnie Cope tae Dunbar came, They spiered at him, 'where's a' your men?' 'The Deil confound me gin I ken, For I left them a this morning.'

Skirving's song did much of the damage, but Burns also published a version and there wasn't much of a counter-narrative in his favour.

The site of Cope’s defeat - and the Jacobite’s surprise victory - has been listed in the Scottish Government’s national inventory of significant battle sites when that was established in 2009, and re-enactments of the fighting regularly take place.

A cairn in memory of the battle was erected in 1953 and others have been added throughout the years. A visitor centre is planned.

The illustrations are from the hand of the late Andrew Hillhouse depicting the night march, the battle and after the victory.

https://www.andrewhillhouseprints.co.uk/gallery_660173.html

#Scotland #scottish #Jacobites #bonnie prince charlie #east lothian #prestonpans #history #battle #'45 Uprising

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bitcoinubitcoinatm46-blog · 2 years

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rufusdawes · 6 years

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Among the Fields of Bali

I spent my first full day in Bali bogan-watching the Bintang crowd. The Aussie-centric party beach suburb of Kuta was about an hour’s walk from my airport accommodation and, with a whole day before leaving Denpasar to fill, this seemed as good as option as any.

The regret arrived almost immediately as I had to cross six lanes of highway, which works out to about ten lanes of vehicles. It soon became apparent that there was not going to be a break in traffic and so, after drawing a deep breath, I stepped off the kerb placing my trust in any one of the island’s Hindu gods that might want to look out for me.

I made it to the median section and exhaled a monumental sigh of relief before it dawned on me that I was only half way and was either spending the night here or risking it all again. Another quick plea to Vishnu, Brahma et al and off I went again weaving around scooters and running in front of buses. The journey then calmed as I wound my way through the city’s backstreets before finally ending up at the southern end of Kuta’s beach.

Here, the Aussie dream appears to be the obtaining of cheap beer, gauche jewellery and a ruddy complexion. It was dirty, busy, with sand and surf a far cry from any of our coastal offerings and not anywhere I could see myself returning in a hurry. This was no destination to risk life and limb getting to. Up and down the lengthy foreshore ran dozens of dodgy surf schools, sunburned drunkards knocking back their Bintangs, and hawkers trying to sell you both tit and tat; one old dear more literally than the others.

My Bali beginning was not leaving the greatest of positive impressions. Instead, after arriving back at my accommodation following a wander home that involved a thunderstorm, being chased by a dog and then navigating the highway again, I made plans to head inland to the Eat, Pray, Love Mecca of Ubud.

The pot-bellied, Bintang singlet wearing gentlemen and the ‘no such thing as too much make-up’ chain-smoking ladies that made up a considerable portion of the Kuta crowd were to be replaced with a dreadlocked and bare-footed contingent. Perhaps still not my style but, after a few years knocking about in Alice Springs, a little more familiar.

Ubud has a reputation for its hippy charms and yoga retreats. There are probably more Yogis here than in the archives of Hanna-Barbera. As well as mastering your meditation and perfecting your downward dog, one could also indulge in an aura spray, which (and I looked this up) is a spray that ‘contains a specific crystal formula that carries a certain healing vibration to tune into’.

Like Kuta, this is most definitely a destination that advertises itself to a specific crowd. However, I couldn’t help but notice how Ubud, like much of Bali, is a town overrun by two wheelers. Where trucks spew out clouds of black smoke and there is an often near-gridlocked traffic network that we as pedestrians are constantly trying to navigate, without being flattened by a ‘which one’s the throttle’ tourist on a scooter. Whilst I have no doubt that ‘the molecular vibrations of the spray’s crystals’ do indeed ‘create harmony and balance’, I’m not so sure it’s going to get the smell of diesel out of a dreadlocked barnet. Either way, Ubud is a popular destination and I too had found my way there.

I’d arrived by hiring a driver via the concierge at my airport accommodation. Due to the strength of the Aussie dollar against the Indonesian rupiah, a car and driver can be hired for those longer journeys and still come in at round $40-$60 a day, regardless of distance or time. This ride took a few hours and also provided me with an opportunity to stop at a coffee manufacturer’s en route where I was able to try some luwak coffee.

Kopi luwak, often thought of as the world’s most expensive coffee, is made from the partially digested coffee beans that have passed through the intestines of the Asian palm civet. Whilst much of the industry has moved into a factory production system where the civets are force fed, I was assured that their production method was still more traditional in that their civets roamed as semi-wild animals that were confined within the boundary fencing of a 200 acre forest and plantation. Then, that the civet faeces were still collected by hand each morning and processed manually.

I was at their point-of-sale, a large garden with examples of the coffee trees and fruit trees used for the teas throughout. In addition, plenty of chooks roaming the grounds and a few large cages containing a handful of civets. At the conclusion of my garden tour I was treated to a tasting of eight coffees and a further eight teas (or at least water infusions) before being offered to taste the luwak coffee for around $5. My curiosity got the better of me and, despite its reputation as being more gimmick than gimme, found it a rather smooth and enjoyable taste, sufficient enough to buy a handful of beans to take home.

Upon arrival in Ubud, I checked into my hotel and made my way to the staple tourist destination of Monkey Forest. A series of old Hindu temples dating from the 14th century, the macaque monkey residents are thought to be holy guardians of the central Pura Dalem temple. Despite this, their role in Hindu mythology is somewhat undermined by the banana sellers at the entrance, as eager tourists line up to purchase the fruit before having it snatched from their hands by the simian thieves along with sunglasses, necklaces and even phones if not paying attention.

As I made my way through the network of paths, listening to the surprised screams of visitors as macaques clawed at their hair and clothes after mistakenly ignoring all the warning signs and attempting to treat the wild animals as if they were cuddly pets, I stumbled across one of the temples hidden among the undergrowth. Here, two young women and a bare-chested gent, all barefoot with the ladies resplendent in summer dresses, braids and henna tattoos, were standing inside the temple’s entrance. I watched as they mumbled some mantra, repeatedly raising their hands to the skies, before cupping them and placing them in the holy water that ran in front to drink from.

After they had finished their ritual, they exited and shut the gate behind them, which quite clearly had the word ‘Closed’ written across it. It may be that these three are devout Hindus with express permission from either the monkeys or the local religious members, who give offerings and use certain trees for religious purposes, or these three are in dire need of an aura spray where we can cleanse the misappropriation out of their chakra. Regardless of their intentions, I certainly struggled to see what three Europeans were hoping to gain from drinking water that at least a few of the 600 macaques are defecating into. Shiva me timbers!

The next few days were spent wandering on foot in and around town. A short distance north, I found the Campuhan Ridge Walk. This was my first exposure to the serenity that could be found in Bali, once the crowds and roads are left behind. Being a ridge walk, it offers glorious views of the forested hillsides, the reed grasses often harvested for roofing and glimpses of rice paddies. At my turn around point, and the most popular spot to do so, I found solace in a café overlooking a lily pond. It felt a world away from the hustle and bustle that had seemed ever present until then.

My time was soon to get even quieter as Nyepi approached. An annual day of Balinese silence, Nyepi is celebrated on the new year of the island’s Saka calendar. Running from 6am for a full 24 hours, the day is intended as one of self-reflection and thus anything that might inhibit that is prohibited. Consequently, the island shuts down with only the Nyepi police (or Pecalang) patrolling the streets to ensure all remains calm. As tourists, we are confined to our accommodation and thus I spent the day before ensuring I had wine, cookies and a couple of pot noodles to get me through the day. Self-reflection’s a heck of a lot more tolerable if you’re half a bottle of wine to the good and sated on chocolate biscuits.

As it turned out, the total of six guests were well looked after by our hotel manager who brought us all pancakes and coffee for breakfast as well as an afternoon meal. Other than that, I managed to spend most of the day either lounging at the pool or peering over the rock wall behind that overlooked a small stream.

Here Asian water monitor lizards lackadaisically made their way downstream occasionally offering a brief breaststroke kick to aid their momentum, as their tail glided side to side through the water like that of a croc’s. Above them, swallows flitted through the air like Messerschmitts in a high speed, protracted rendition of the Battle of Britain as they took down insects from the skies. It was dizzying watching them, jet black with flashes of blue and white on their bellies, never settling. Sunning themselves on the rocks were the resident spotted turtle doves, egrets and herons. Squirrels chased one another up and down the palm trees and leaping from the tree tops too often to their apparent deaths before somehow clinging to a feeble branch that bended and bounced under their lightweight frames to its limit. Considering my usual inability to sit still for more than a few minutes, I found my time confined to the hotel surprisingly bearable.

I was still delighted when Nyepi Day was over though and I could once again set foot outside the hotel grounds. I got a little further out by booking another driver and heading seaward, leaving the rainforested highlands behind.

One of my Nyepi companions at the hotel was a French lass from Normandy by the name of Julia. She’d been in Bali a month or so already, had been before, and recommended that I visit Amed on the north-east coast. A popular spot for decades with divers and especially Gallic ones, Amed is a series of villages along a black-sanded volcanic coastline in the shadow of Mt Agung. This part of Bali is much quieter and the coastal road only ever punctuated by a vehicle of any description on occasion. It didn’t take long for me to work out I was going to be much happier here.

My first morning’s stroll took me past a café that doubled up as a freediving centre. Having wandered past once from the beach side, I doubled back along the road side and popped in for a Balinese coffee and to decide whether I’d like to try my hand at freediving or not. A mate back in Australia had given it a go and had been waxing lyrical about it when we’d caught up in NSW just before I flew out. Convinced, I spoke to one of the instructors who informed me that a two-day course had started about an hour ago. He stuck his head round the door, confirmed that it wasn’t too late to join in and so minutes later I found myself lying on a bean bag learning about belly breathing and $250 lighter.

Freediving is essentially breath holding underwater but if you’re good at it, can get you deeper than a recreational SCUBA diver. I am not good at it and started by getting about as deep as a balloon. Before that, our morning’s dry land instruction was around the physiology of holding one’s breath and talking through the symptoms encountered when doing so. I was extremely good at practicing on land and my low heart rate and relative fitness had my body’s oxygen levels still at 99% after 90 seconds of apnea. These were very positive signs.

In the water, it was a slightly different affair. We swam out 100m or so off shore to water some 40m deep. Split into two groups we took it in turns to go through our warm-up breathing, taking a breath and then descending a line with the intention of reaching 10m before turning around. The theory was good but my problems equalising my ears prevented me every single time. Instead, having aborted multiple attempts at around 5-6m, my instructor suggested not worrying about depth and practice hanging out on the line. Thus, on the next few tries, I descended just a few metres before righting myself and stopping.

It was beautiful. The openness of the water, the blueness of the view and the peacefulness that pervaded was immense. I imagined this must be what it’s like to spacewalk. I’ve SCUBA’d and snorkelled but I’d never experienced such calm in the water before. I might not be a good freediver but I’m a convert. Things were only to get better after this two day course since day three was putting it into further practice alongside manta rays.

Together with a few of the instructors and other students of Apneista, we travelled to the clear waters off Nusa Lembongan and home to a known feeding station of manta rays. A dozen or more boats bobbed up and down since scores of SCUBA divers had long since arrived. Thousands of bubbles made their way back to the surface from a hundred or more regulators. What there were not, were manta rays. However, some fifteen minutes later I saw my first and shortly after, my second.

Then, the divers began ascending. Their air exhausted and knowledge of their dive logs preventing them from returning, the waters emptied and only a handful of freedivers remained. Before long a manta ray swam by, followed by another and then a third. All up I counted well into double figures, sometimes two or three would pass by at a time. Unencumbered by walls of bubbles and a mass of bodies, the rays returned as our instructor had predicted on the journey over.

The experienced among us were diving down the 20m to the seabed and watching the majesty of the rays as they swept overhead. I made do with a glorified snorkelling effort, swimming down to my ear popping maximum of five or six metres and hanging out above them. I’d missed a chance to get up close and personal with manta rays some years ago off Fiji, but this was more than making up for it.

This also represented the end of my Amed adventure with the final part of my Indonesian getaway taking me away from Bali and on to the island of Gili Air off the coast of Lombok.

Gili Air is a tiny isle of around 15km2 and one upon which there is no motorised transport. The only fumes I was inhaling here was from the back of a horse’s arse as I took the carriage it was drawing from the docks, where the ferry dropped me off, to my retreat in the middle of the island.

The few days I spent on Gili Air were about as busy as that spent during Nyepi Day. I went for coffee in the mornings. I swam during the afternoons, including finding a couple of turtles to hang out with as I practiced my breath holding and ear equalising. At night, I dined at one of the dozens of beachside restaurants where my true Aussie nature finally revealed itself; ‘…and anything to drink, Sir?’ ‘I’ll have a Bintang please’.

#bali #freediving #monkeyforest #ubud #amed

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kevingbakeruk · 6 years

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17 Things To Know Before Driving In Iceland (Plus Car Rental Tips)

Things You Should Know About Driving in Iceland

Iceland

Ready for an epic road trip driving in Iceland? Renting a car is the best way to experience this beautiful country. But there are a few things you should know before you start your adventure.

So you’ve embraced your inner Leif Erikson, and you’re finally planning a trip to Iceland! Welcome to the club.

Road tripping around Iceland’s Ring Road, and the Golden Circle, are some of my favorite travel adventures to date (after 8 years and 50+ countries!)

Iceland will always have a special place in my heart.

Renting a car and driving Iceland on your own is the best way to experience this stunning and diverse country, as it truly gives you the freedom to stop at each and every waterfall, volcano, hot-spring, and glacier along the way.

Here are some important tips for driving in Iceland, so you’re ready to hit the road and start exploring the land of fire and ice.

Ultimate Iceland Driving Guide:

Should You Rent A Car In Iceland?

Where To Rent Your Car

Iceland’s Different Road Types

What Kind Of Vehicle Do You Need?

Car Rental Insurance In Iceland

Watch Out For Animals!

Iceland’s Speed Cameras

Be Prepared For Extreme Weather

Gas Stations & Fuel Advice

Do You Need GPS?

Don’t Stop In The Road!

Pack Proper Gear For Iceland

Car Camping Restrictions

Winter Driving In Iceland

F-Road Driving Tips

How To Cross A River

Accident & Breakdown Info

Useful Tips For Driving In Iceland

Tips for Renting a Car in Iceland

Should You Rent A Car In Iceland?

Hey, if you’re a fan of bus tours, by all means go book one. It’s a wonderful way to see a country if you don’t have a lot of time. No planning, no driving, just sit back and let someone else do all the work.

But if you’re like me, you prefer the adventure and challenge of independent travel. True exploration, with no set schedule or timetable. The freedom to stop anywhere interesting you find along the way.

Maybe you want to capture an epic waterfall sunrise photo at 6am without 100 other tourists around. Maybe you want to drive off the beaten path, excited with anticipation of what you’ll discover around the next bend.

If that’s the kind of traveler you are, then renting a car and self-driving around Iceland is the way to go!

Where To Rent Your Car

Renting a car from Keflavík International Airport is the most obvious choice, however you can also rent them in Reykjavik later if you plan to spend a few days in the city first.

The airport is about 40 minutes away from Reykjavik city.

During my three weeks traveling in Iceland, I rented an SUV for two weeks, and a campervan for one week.

RentalCars.com searches all the big car rental companies and finds the best price. This is probably the easiest way to rent a car or truck in Iceland.

Happy Campers rents fully-equipped campervans with a bed, kitchen, space heater, and everything you’d need for your road trip. It was an awesome way to see the country!

Iceland’s Adventurous Back Roads

Iceland’s Different Road Types

With the variety of landforms and terrain in Iceland, you’ve got to think about the type of trip you want to have. Do you want to carve your way across the Icelandic highlands like a Nordic explorer? Or do you plan on having a more relaxed and comfortable drive around the island?

This will determine the roads you’ll encounter and the vehicle you’ll need.

Ring Road & Golden Circle (Paved)

You can see some of Iceland’s most popular destinations driving around the Ring Road (Route 1). This mostly paved road runs a giant circle around the outer rim of the island and through many towns, including the capital of Reykjavik.

There are some remote sections with gravel, but a 2-wheel-drive vehicle will still get the job done. Speed limits average 90 kilometers per hour (56 mph) on these roads.

You can choose a 2WD vehicle for the Golden Circle, too. This short route is a great day trip from Reykjavik if you’re short on time (like during a layover).

USEFUL TIP: Planning to drive the ring road? Stop at Jokulsarlon glacial lagoon to see the incredible icebergs!

Adventurous F-Roads (Gravel)

Did you know that 54% of Icelanders believe in elves or the possibility they exist? If you want to search for them, you’ll find them near the F-roads.

These special designated dirt and gravel mountain roads wind through Iceland’s rugged interior highlands. It is strongly advised that people travel in groups of 2 or more cars for safety should a breakdown occur, just like remote jeep trails in the United States.

The rocky, muddy conditions are more treacherous than other gravel roads. You can travel for miles without seeing any other cars.

Iceland’s F-roads require a 4-wheel-drive rental car. They also require your full attention. Some F-Roads can get quite rough, with glacial river crossings.

USEFUL TIP: F-Road doesn’t mean off-road. Driving completely off marked roads in Iceland is illegal and can damage your rental and the environment.

Local Access H-Roads (Gravel)

These are dirt roads that often lead to farms and private homes off the main paved roads in Iceland. They are better maintained than the F-Roads, don’t require a 4X4 in the summer, but aren’t plowed as frequently as paved roads in the winter time.

Renting a Campervan in Iceland

What Kind Of Vehicle Do You Need?

If you can’t drive manual stick shifts, double check that you’re actually renting an automatic vehicle, because most rental cars in Iceland are manual.

The type of vehicle you’ll need depends largely on the season, weather conditions, and road type.

Two Wheel Drive

Small 2WD cars are the most affordable, and perfectly suitable for day trips around Reykjavik and the popular paved roads that run around Iceland (like the Golden Circle and Ring Road).

All 2WD rental cars in Iceland are equipped with studded tires during the winter season to help with traction on ice too.

HOW MUCH DOES IT COST? – Renting a small car in Iceland is going to cost between $40 – $100 USD per day (4200 ISK to 10,600 ISK) depending on the model/season.

Check Prices For 2WD Car Rentals In Iceland

Four Wheel Drive

The affordable 4×4 Suzuki Jimny, or a more expensive Land Rover is perfect for Iceland’s rugged F-Roads. If you plan to explore Iceland’s back roads at any point, you’ll want one of these four-wheel drive bad boys.

HOW MUCH DOES IT COST? – Renting a 4X4 SUV in Iceland is going to cost between $100 – $250 USD per day (10,600 ISK – 26,500 ISK). A fancy Land Rover or Super Jeep will set you back $400+ per day.

Check Prices For 4X4 Truck Rentals In Iceland

Campervan

Transportation? Check. Accommodation? Check. Home-cooked meals? Fire up the grill, baby! This is the way to attack a serious Icelandic road trip in comfort. Plus, you’ll avoid spending cash on Iceland’s notoriously expensive accommodation and restaurant meals. More money = more fuel = more adventures.

Campervans come in both 2WD and 4WD varieties, which is especially important for driving Iceland in the winter.

HOW MUCH DOES IT COST? – Renting a campervan in Iceland is going to cost between $140 – $250 USD per day (14,800 ISK to 26,500 ISK) depending on the model/season.

Check Prices For Campervan Rentals In Iceland

Driving Under the Northern Lights

Car Rental Insurance In Iceland

Driving in Iceland can result in some pretty harsh conditions that many people aren’t prepared for — so I always recommend getting the extra car insurance options available to you.

Collision Damage Waiver

Car rental companies typically offer various levels of a Collision Damage Waiver (CDW), which isn’t exactly insurance. Instead, it means the rental company won’t charge you over a predetermined limit if you drop off the rental car with damage.

But this limit still tends to be upwards of $1750 for the basic CDW, and companies in Iceland are more likely to inspect every inch of your vehicle.

The basic CDW comes free with every rental. With most companies, an additional daily fee (about $10 and up) allows you to upgrade to Super CDW (SCDW), Grand CDW, and even Premium CDW. This lowers the amount you’ll be liable for in the end should damage occur to the vehicle.

These higher-level CDWs usually come with added protection like:

Gravel Protection – Gravel roads abound in Iceland. There’s a risk of other drivers spraying rocks at your vehicle as they drive by, so it makes sense to grab this one for a few extra bucks a day.

Sandstorm & Ash Protection – Yup, you read that correctly! High winds can blast your car with volcanic ash and sand, causing extensive damage to the rental vehicle.

Ice Protection – Ice. Land. It’s in the name! Get this add-on, especially if you’re traveling in the winter. Sliding off icy roads is a common occurrence in Iceland.

River Crossing Insurance – Read the terms carefully. If it only covers water up to half of the wheel-well, you’re not protected for deeper crossings (which you’ll find plenty of on F-roads).

You’ll also want to check if the rental company sets a mileage limit. Always try to get the unlimited milage option!

Dangerous Sheep in Iceland

Watch Out For Animals!

There are 3 types of large animals that may cross your path while driving in Iceland, and crashing into them will definitely ruin your trip.

Iceland has a lot of sheep. In the summer, they’re allowed to roam free through the countryside, often walking across the road.

Beautiful and funny Icelandic horses can sometimes be moved from one pasture to another via roadways too.

If you’re driving in the remote North East of Iceland, you may see some wild reindeer in the winter. Reindeer were brought over from Norway in the 18th century, but were never domesticated.

Remember to slow down and pass any animals near the road very carefully.

Iceland’s Speed Cameras

You won’t see too many police cars on the roads driving around Iceland. However Iceland does enforce its speed limit with camera traps.

These nondescript boxes on the side of the road record your speed and take a photo if you’re driving over the limit, resulting in a steep fine.

The speed limit in Iceland is 90km/h (55mph) on paved roads, 80km/h (49mph) per hour on dirt roads, and 50km/h (31mph) per hour in cities.

Also note that seatbelts are mandatory in Iceland, and just good common sense anyway.

Emergency Roadside Weather Shelter

Be Prepared For Extreme Weather

Weather can get severe in Iceland from time to time. So severe, that 70mph wind gusts have been known to blow open car doors backwards, bending the hinges or ripping them off completely!

To prevent wind damage try to park your car with wind pushing the car door closed, not open. Open your window first, and stick your hand out to test wind strength, then slowly open the door with two hands.

Don’t assume you can handle driving through an Icelandic snow storm just because you grew up in New England, because the weather can be VERY different here.

Weather changes quickly in Iceland, and a sunny morning can easily turn into a snowstorm later that day. Iceland has a fantastic website to check real-time road conditions called Road.is. They even have a handy smartphone app.

Gas Stations & Fuel Advice

Gas stations in Iceland are scarce once you get further away from the cities, but spread out across the island. Be sure to fuel up before setting out, and re-fuel often — try not to let it fall below half a tank.

You’ll find plenty of gas stations on the Ring Road until you reach the more remote Eastern and Northern parts of the country, where they start to thin out. Fill up more frequently out there.

Iceland is a remote island, without a lot of people/cars. At about $2 USD per liter ($7.50 USD per gallon), gas for your road trip is going to be expensive. Diesel isn’t much better right now, so check the prices and plan accordingly.

USEFUL TIP: If you’re up in the highland’s driving Iceland’s F-roads, it’s wise to bring a spare gas can.

Seljalandsfoss Waterfall

Do You Need GPS?

Many car rental companies in Iceland will try to up-sell you a GPS device for your road trip. However this is not needed if you have international cell service, or pick up a local SIM card at the airport or in Reykjavik before you embark on your journey.

Maybe bring along a dashboard or windshield smartphone holder so you can use the GPS maps hands-free while driving.

Along with Google Maps, I’d also recommend downloading the Gaia GPS Hiking App, which will help you get around Iceland’s backcountry hiking trails, even if you don’t have cell service. Here’s a handy guide for using it.

Don’t Stop In The Middle Of The Road!

Many of Iceland’s roads lack breakdown lanes, or have small ones. However because the scenery in Iceland is so spectacular, tourists are constantly stopping on the edge of the road to take photos.

Don’t do this! It’s not safe, and you might cause an accident.

If you really have to get that amazing photo, keep driving until you find a proper turn-off, park, and walk back to that perfect spot. Even if it takes you an extra 10 minutes.

That photo opportunity can wait a little, it’s simply not worth the danger of stopping in the middle of the road when there’s traffic passing by. Please be respectful of everyone else driving in Iceland.

Be Prepared for Extreme Conditions

Pack Proper Gear For Iceland

Even though Iceland is becoming a very popular tourist destination, parts of it are still pretty remote. Between large towns, you could be driving for a while before you’ll find regular civilization.

With this in mind, it’s wise to pack extra food, snacks, and water for your road trip. I’d also make sure you have proper clothing for cold weather and stormy conditions, warm and waterproof layers. Sturdy shoes or hiking boots too.

A first aid kit is always a great idea, here’s the one I travel with on my frequent adventures around the world. You never know when it will come in handy.

You Can’t Just Camp Anywhere

Car Camping Restrictions

So, you’ve packed a tent in your car, or you’re driving a camper van. You assume it’s legal to camp anywhere you please on this beautiful island. But should you? Can you legally camp anywhere in Iceland?

According to the Environment Agency of Iceland (EAI):

“Camping with no more than three tents is allowed on uncultivated ground for a single night, unless the landowner has posted a notice to the contrary. However, campers should always use designated campsites where they do exist. Do not camp close to farms without permission. If a group of more than three tents is involved, these campers must seek permission from the landowner before setting up camp outside marked campsite areas.

It is illegal to spent the night in tent trailers, tent campers, caravans, camper van or similar outside organised campsites or urban areas unless the land owner or rightholder has given their permission.”

There are also protected areas in Iceland where you definitely may NOT camp. For a complete list of protected locations and descriptions of when to ask permission, visit the camping rules page.

Please use a designated campsite when it’s available. With more than three tents or driving a campervan, ask permission of the landowner. Avoid protected areas.

If you do choose to camp outside designated areas, please follow the rules above, and leave no trace of your presence behind — so Iceland stays beautiful for locals and future travelers.

Driving Iceland in the Winter

Winter Driving In Iceland

Every year tons of unprepared tourists get stuck or slide off the road due to Iceland’s winter driving conditions. I was hit with 2 snow storms during my 3 week trip during October/November.

Part of the problem is many people don’t have any real winter driving experience, or they over-estimate their abilities.

Getting your rental car stuck in the snow or ice is a very real possibility during winter in Iceland. Do you know how to get yourself out?

Clear snow away from your tires, using a shovel or hands and feet.

Straighten your tires, rock the vehicle back and forth, shifting from drive to reverse.

Create traction under your tires using dirt, sand, branches, granola, floor mats, anything you can find.

Always fill your gas tank when possible, especially in the winter. Getting stuck in a snowstorm and spending the night in your vehicle is a remote possibility. Without gas to keep it running (and warm), things get dangerous quickly.

When driving through heavy snow, try to stay inside the tire tracks. Drive slowly, and carefully move over to the edge when passing oncoming traffic.

Off-Road Driving Tips

F-Road Driving Tips

While driving Iceland’s remote & rugged F-Roads is not technically driving off-road, basically you need to think of them as exactly that.

These roads are extremely basic, and not really maintained. In the United States, they’d be called “jeep trails” or “fire roads”.

So the same kind of safety concerns apply. You are on your own out there. No gas stations, no towns, no tow trucks.

If you get a flat, get stuck in the mud, or your engine breaks down, it could be a while before someone passes by who can help.

It’s forbidden to drive Iceland’s F-Roads without a 4X4 vehicle due to the rough conditions.

Traveling in pairs with a second vehicle is highly recommended, in case one of you breaks down.

F-Roads are only open during the summer months, generally June – August (or first snow). Some don’t open until July.

How To Cross A River

If you’re driving the paved Ring Road or Golden Circle, you’ll have normal bridges. However if you’re traveling to Iceland’s interior highlands on the dirt F-Roads, you may encounter a few rivers without them.

Crossing a river in a 4X4 truck requires a bit of planning. If you’ve never done it before, here are some tips.

Know where your vehicle’s “water line” is (maximum depth). Going past it may result in damage.

Try to cross glacial rivers early in the morning, when the flow is lower. As the day heats up, the river gets more powerful/deeper.

Shift your vehicle into 4X4 “low” before you start to cross, not in the middle of the river.

Drive slow and steady through the current. Don’t drive too fast or “splash” into the water (it could kill the engine).

Drive diagonally downstream, so the current helps push you across.

Stick to the marked crossing points, and don’t assume it’s always safe to cross. Try to watch someone else go first.

What to Do During an Emergency?

Accident & Breakdown Info

112 is the only emergency number in Iceland. This is what you’d call to report any bad accidents, fire, crime, search & rescue, or natural disasters. 112 can be reached from anywhere in Iceland, from any telephone, by voice or by SMS text message.

Another great resource is the 112 Iceland App, that lets you “check in” before going on a hike or doing anything risky, to help provide location information if something goes wrong later.

If it’s not a life-or-death emergency, like your car breaks down or you get a flat tire, then contact your rental car office for help.

If you break down and you’re not exactly sure where you are, please don’t leave your car. Stay with your vehicle until someone passes by who can help.

Iceland’s F-Roads are patrolled by search & rescue teams who check for stranded drivers on a semi-regular basis.

Have Fun Driving In Iceland!

I hope I didn’t scare you too much about driving in Iceland. It really is worth the extra effort to rent a car and drive yourself!

Regardless of which vehicle or road you choose, one thing’s for sure — renting a car in Iceland gives you the freedom to set your own path and reach stunning locations off-limits to the typical bus tourist.

It also lets you do it at your own pace and in a style that suits you. And besides, how do you expect to hunt for elves from your hotel room in Reykjavik? Get out there and drive around Iceland in your own rental car! ★

Bonus Video! Driving Tips For Iceland

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Subscribe to my YouTube Channel for new Adventure Travel Videos! (Click to watch Dangers On Icelandic Roads? – Driving With Elfis on YouTube)

TRIP PLANNING INFORMATION

Location: Iceland Car Rental: RentalCars.com or Happy Campers Accommodation: Click Here For Deals in Iceland Useful Notes: For road trips around Iceland’s popular Ring Road or Golden Circle, you really don’t need a 4X4 vehicle in the summer. In the winter, if you’re heading to the far North or East of Iceland, it will certainly help during snow-storms. Recommended Guidebook: Lonely Planet Iceland Suggested Reading: The Little Book Of Hidden People

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READ MORE FROM ICELAND

Driving Iceland’s Golden Circle How To Photograph Iceland’s Northern Lights Iceland’s Best Photography Locations Secrets Of Iceland’s Ring Road

Are you planning a road trip in Iceland? Any questions about driving or renting a car there? Drop me a message in the comments below!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

from Tips For Traveling https://expertvagabond.com/driving-iceland-rental-car/

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floraexplorer · 7 years

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Who Are You Online? – My Travel Writing Reality

“Is Flora your real name?”

I peered at the terse email on my computer screen, where an unknown reader named Brian was asking a rather strange question of me.

“I’ve heard that it’s not your name – so for the sake of a blogging presentation I’m giving next week, could you please tell me?”

My first reaction was to laugh outright. Whoever would christen their blog ‘Flora the Explorer’ if their name was actually Charlotte or Poppy or Gertrude?! But aside from his blunt attitude, Brian did actually have a point.

If he had reason to doubt my real name, what else was debatable? What is the reality of this double life lived both online and off?

Who am I online?

Writing about your life on the internet means it’s sometimes hard to see a line. When I first started this site I had no clue it was even possible for people I hadn’t met to read about me – but nowadays I can’t really help being personal in my writing, knowing full well that it invites strangers to draw their own conclusions.

Yet it still feels like something’s not quite authentic. In trying to put my finger on it, I wanted to investigate what kind of person I think I come across as.

I’m definitely a traveller.

The last two months have been extensively travel-filled, and I’ve barely stopped moving.

I hitched a ride in a tour van through Europe with a Chilean band; explored Menorca alongside dozens of bloggers, vloggers and social media ‘influencers'; headed into the Scottish highlands for a music festival and some offline life beside the lochs; and somehow found myself traversing the length of Queensland, Australia for nearly a fortnight.

Yet I’ve spent a lot of the last few months staring out of windows.

Yet before May began I hadn’t left the country in 2017 – and if I’m honest, I hadn’t really wanted to.

I’m also a writer.

As ever, I try to write about these experiences with carefully thought-out language, colourfully suitable photos and an overall sense of narrative and purpose. I edit and proof-read and edit again, taking the time to decide exactly how I want to tell these stories.

But precisely because of that delay in the retelling, something gets lost along the way. The reality of these trips goes a little differently.

I’m often a disorganised mess.

At 6am I wake to a mess of a bedroom. There’s a half-opened suitcase on the floor, spilling over with clothes and shoes still to be packed. Our adopted cat is meowing plaintively from the garden outside because I haven’t fed her yet.

I’ve woken up multiple times already, of course: the night preceding any kind of travel usually makes my subconscious go into anxious overdrive. How many alarms have I set to snooze in my half-slumbering state? Am I going to miss my flight/train/bus?

Spoiler: in almost thirty years I don’t think I ever have. But I panic nevertheless.

An accidental nap in Rajasthan, India

Over years of travel I’ve established a routine amongst the mess – but now that travelling has actually become part of my profession, it’s harder to make space for the writing I want to produce.

As a result I have to admit that recently I’ve become a bit burnt-out with blogging. Well, that’s not true exactly. It’s not the writing of blog posts which tires me.

It’s social media.

I market the version of myself which social media wants.

Maintaining a travel blog means covering all your bases in real-time on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and a myriad of other places too. The bigger your audience grows, the more demanding and more pressurised these channels become.

It’s not just posting pretty photos and interesting captions: you have to consider how this information will be absorbed, and decide how best to commandeer more readers, fans and followers.

Do you ever dream in colour? ❤️ I’ve never been good at asking for photos of myself – – something to do with self-consciousness, along with my stubbornly British ‘I don’t want to inconvenience anybody’ streak – – but I’m slowly learning to challenge that part of myself. The doorway I’m standing in here, down a little sidestreet close to the sea in Menorca, was too colourful an opportunity to pass up

A post shared by Flora The Explorer (@florabaker) on Jun 1, 2017 at 7:56am PDT

I’m absolutely not complaining about this. I’m so absurdly grateful that tourism boards and companies appreciate my writing enough that they want me to tell stories about their destinations. And I’m more than happy to market myself as some kind of brand – even if it feels a little bizarre.

It’s just that more often than not, I feel like the expectations of social media don’t align with the way I want to communicate. I cringe when I have to ask someone to take my photo as I pose – but those are the images which do best on Instagram. I can feel my stories bubbling over into the generic, because round-up articles and top ten lists get more traffic and SEO and all the other bits and pieces for online success.

Trying to mix it all together amongst an ever-changing reality

My parents both worked in the theatre, so I’ve grown up with an acute awareness of what it means to don a costume, or slip into a new character. Essentially, I know how to disguise particular parts of myself.

I’ve talked about the concept of an alter-ego in blogging before, and that alter-ego can take multiple different forms. In travel I often feel like a chameleon: because depending where I’m travelling to, my own version of reality changes.

For instance, throughout my journeys in Menorca and Scotland and Australia I could see myself in abruptly different bubbles of life. As the kinds of people around me changed, I duly altered how I behaved too.

Being one of sixty ‘social media influencers’ in Menorca

For a week, I explored the Spanish island of Menorca with a group of YouTubers and Instagrammers, fashion bloggers and travel writers, Pinterest queens and drone experts, comedians and dancers. One woman has her own lipstick range; another wrote a book on the history of sex; a third has cornered the Instagram market in paper cutouts.

Everyone was at the top of their game, and I had to step up accordingly.

Moreover, everyone was part of an environment I’ve spent the last seven years learning and understanding. Conversations revolved around Instagram, Facebook and social media tactics, and most of our explorations were documented via drones and expensive camera gear. I was active, sociable, always networking, and always online.

Being an offline hippy in Scotland

A day later I was at a music festival in Scotland, where I had no wifi and barely touched my camera. Surrounded by people who wash in rivers, live in vans and favour camping and hiking over makeup tutorials and website traffic statistics, I changed my behaviour completely.

I was the quiet one, the observer, taking in everything that was happening instead of being loud, chatty and ‘on’. I stopped posting on social media, and immediately felt like I was suffering internet withdrawal.

Being a professional blogger in Australia

When I set out for a press trip to Australia a few days later, I threw myself into full-on work mode.

It was my job to be exploring Queensland alongside other bloggers, and I was constantly primed to be professional: taking notes, making recordings, diligently posting to every one of my social media channels and pushing my boundaries constantly so I’d have good content to utilise afterwards.

Wielding too many devices for a butterfly house!

Being myself in East London

And then I came back to London, to a quiet flat and the glass-topped desk which I can see straight through to the floor. Suddenly my days were quiet: an open balcony door, the birds chirping outside, and so much space and time to write and to think.

I sometimes feel like we collect different versions of ourselves – and in an effort to fit amongst a particular crowd we pull one of those selves from the pack, like a magician mid-card trick.

So what links these selves together? What’s the linchpin – the backbone – of who we are?

Writing is my backbone

It’s easiest to recognise that link during the in-between moments. When there’s nothing expected from you, how do you regain your energy again?

I find myself taking space from the journeys. I tap out keyboard strokes on trains, glancing apologetically at the woman opposite who thinks I’m encroaching on her table space. I scribble jolted words in a little notebook while crammed inside a van amongst guitar cases and slumbering musicians. I scroll through Evernote on my phone at 30,000 feet while the plane’s cabin lights dim. My eyes ache, and I really should be sleeping.

And more often than not, I repeat phrases silently in my head, waiting for the moment when I can eventually record them somewhere.

Because as ever, writing is my safe space. It’s where I come to decompress, to re-evaluate, and to re-energise. Writing is the way I connect my experiences together, be they travel related or purely personal or somewhere in between.

Why do we live out our lives online?

I guess the point I’m struggling to make is the importance of questioning why we do what we do.

Why do I write this blog? What is my reasoning for publishing my words online? I don’t think I’m actively trying to ‘influence’ anyone. That’s not the point for me. The reason I do it is because travel and writing, hand in hand, make me inordinately happy.

It’s about the world: a seemingly unquenchable thirst to explore every nook and cranny of it, to hunt out the fascinating details which someone else might not have seen, and to

It’s about people: the ones who fascinate me enough to write about, and the ones whose reactions inspire me to keep writing.

It’s about telling stories: re-constructing a world on paper, and giving shape to the way I interpret that space.

In Menorca I had a conversation with fellow ‘online influencers’ (a term I’d never give myself, by the way!) about this topic: about the challenges of representing our real selves in an increasingly commercial online world.

Our collective conclusion was that we all do this because we have passion. We have a constant need to push our creative boundaries – and simply to create in general – but I still maintain that conveying what’s real is still a crucial part of that.

Authenticity is probably the most valued part of publishing your life online, so although I don’t think I have to justify my online identity (and particularly not to Brian!), perhaps my aim now is to be more honest in the content I produce, regardless of what platform it appears on.

And perhaps to produce it quicker, before the impetus disappears.

Have you ever doubted your online self, or wondered who you appear to be in this internet world? Does it matter to you?

NB: This article is part of a new series called ‘Behind The Blog’ — where I delve into all the bizarre elements of living out your life online. Keep an eye out for further articles on this topic!

The post Who Are You Online? – My Travel Writing Reality appeared first on .

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rubiemcdowell · 7 years

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elvirapulverw · 7 years

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