Rock Art in the Upper ~Indus Region
Harald Hauptmann
Rock Art in the Upper ~Indus Region
The majestic peaks of the Himalayas with their I4 eight-thousanders
towering above the scenery, separate the Tibetan Plateau and the South
Asian subcontinent on a length of 2,500 km. They do not. though. form an
impassable barrier to man, as evident from its western part comprising
the Hindu Kush, the Western Himalayas. and the Karakoram in the north
of Pakistan. From the Tarim Basin, several paths lead over passes more
than 4,000 metres high over the glaciers of the mountain chains of the
The Karakoram down to the deeply cut canyons of the Indus river and its tributaries.
This network of routes that connects the northern steppe regions
with Kashmir and the Indo-Pakistani lowlands has been frequented by
hunters and nomads since the end of the Ice Age as well as during historical
times by merchants with their caravans, by Buddhist pilgrims, Chinese
emissaries. and foreign conquerors.
The high mountain range that today encompasses the Northern Areas
of Pakistan formed, on the one hand, the shortest connection to the trading posts in the Tarim Basin for Indian caravans, but on the other hand,
it was also, in the opposite direction, at least temporarily the gate to India
for Sogdian merchants from Samarkand. A southern section of the
legendary Silk Route led through the Indus Valley. It consisted of a network
of trading routes that started in the ancient Chinese imperial cib of
Changan and led to the Mediterranean Sea via the oasis cities in the Tarim Basin, such as Khotan, Yarkand and Kashgar as well as Turfan and Kucha.
The first description of the passages leading from the Tarim Basin via the
Hindu Kush and Karakoram to the kingdoms ofJibin (Chi-pin) and Nandou
- kingdoms that are located in the regions around Kapisa-Peshawar
and Gilgit - is provided by the chronicle Han Shu (25-221 B.c.E.) from the
time of the Han dynasty. The difficult route continues until it reaches the
"Hanging Passages", spanning deep chasms, which are described as life-threatening
challenges for man and beast. This toponym might either refer
to the paths running in vertiginous heights along the scarps above the
Hunza and the Indus rivers or, more probable, to the shaky rope bridges
stretching over mountain torrents. The adventurous itineraries of Chinese
pilgrims vividly narrate the arduous journeys across the snowcovered
peaks of the "Onion Mountains" down to the Indus Valley. The
earliest among these pilgrims, according to the tradition, was the monk
Faxian (317-~zo), who started his 15-years-long pilgrimage in the imperial
city of Changan. After having scaled the Karakoram Faxian reached
the kingdom Jiecha (Kie-cha), probably modern Baltistan, and the small
kingdom of To-lieh or ~uoliin the year 400. This place was of supraregional
religious importance, as its sanctuary was most prominent for a
gilded wooden statue of Maitreya, the future Buddha, which was over
20 metres high. Only afterwards, Faxian crossed the "Route of the Hanging
Passages", i.e. the Indus river, to arrive at his destination, the kingdom
of UddiyHna, in Swat. In the report of the most famous pilgrim,
Xuanzang (629-645), a Chinese Marco Polo, who had also chosen the
southern route over the "Onion Mountains" to Gandhara. the miraculous
Maitreya statue and an adjunct monastery is described again at a place that
he calls Ta-li-lo. This location is probably to be identified with a religious
centre such as the one in the Chilas Basin.
Apart from these reports and some later chronicles, there exist no
other historical sources on this region. Yet, there is another group of
monuments giving a deeper insight into the history of this high mountain
region: A collection of rock art images ~~niiqn ~the~ire diversity and ex Fig.
2 Hodur-West. Stupa-Buddha group
traordinary in their quantity. Carved into the rock faces and boulders of
the Indus gorge, reaching from Indus-Kohistan to Baltistan, and, even
beyond, to Ladakh and Tibet, expands one of the worldwide largest and
most impressive rock art provinces. These monuments can also be found
on the important pass routes and subsidiary valleys of the Indus river be
it along with the Gilgit, at Yasin, in Hunza up to the Kilik pass. along the Shigar
or the Shyok in Baltistan. They concentrate along the Fully developed
routes to both sides of the Indus river. having their richest clusters within
a stretch of more than 100 kilometres between Shatial in Indus-Kohistan
and the bridge of Raikot. In these rock art galleries, which are centred
around Chilas and Thalpan in the district of Diamer at the foot of the
8,125 meter high Nanga Parbat, over 50,000 rock drawings and more than
5,000 inscriptions represent a period lasting from the late Stone Age to
the Islamisation of the mountain region that took place in the l6th century.
The remarkable diversity of these engravings, also known as the
"guest book of the Silk Route", mirrors the history, the cultural and social
traditions and the religious ideas of local as well as immigrated peoples.
The existence of this rock art as well as that of the two monumental
Buddha reliefs of Kargah near Gilgit (fig. 7) and Manthal near Skardu in
Baltistan (fig. 8) has already been known since the 19'~c' century. But only
after the completion of the 751 km long Karakorarn Highway - the direct
connection between China and Pakistan - Karl Jettmar. Heidelberg, and
Ahmad Hasan Dani, Islamabad, could commence systematic research of
the rock art province. The work started as a joint German-Pakistani project
in 1980 and in 1984 the project was taken over by the Heidelberg
Academy of the Sciences and has continued with the approval of the Pakistani
Department of Archaeology and Museums in Islamabad to date.*
With the onset of the ~olocene(9,500-6,200 B.C.E.),the milder climate
in this region went along with heavier precipitation that also favoured a
lush vegetation in the valleys and thus permitted the expansion of diverse fauna. Tllese propitious environmental conditions. starting with
the melting of the large glacersa, ttracted groups of hunters who created
the earliest rock images ofwild animals: depictions of ibex, markhor, and
bharal (~imalayanb lue sheep), but also hunting scenes that occasionally
even feature depictions of humans (line drawings 1.1-2). The artist's
symbolic presence seems to be expressed by representations of hand and
foot prints. The pictures of animals. usually engraved in silhouettes and
showing a subnaturalistic style, find their counterparts in the rock art
provinces of Western Asia and Siberia, ranging from the late Stone Age to
Neolithic times.
Impressive images of large, naked figures of men can be ascribed to the
Bronze Age, the late 3d millennium B.C.E. Depicted in frontal view, with
arms outstretched (line drawing 1,3), these "giants", found as single
figures or in pairs, are attested in more than 60 examples from prominent
places in the lndus Valley to Ladakh and might represent images of
ghosts, demons, or local deities. Alternatively they might just depict
shamans. In isolated cases the faceless giants are connected with images
of masks (line drawing 1,4), that, if compared with the Siberian Okunev
culture, could be explained as relating to shamanistic actions. We can
only assign some rare rock art examples of wild animals or hunting
scenes, and some depictions of chariots, to the 2"hillennium B.C.E. The
earliest megalithic round tombs in lshkoman and Yasin can be ascribed to
this era as well.
With the beginning of the first millennium B.C.E.. a new population
appears in the Upper lndus region, which can be traced back to invasions
of Scytho-Sakian tribes. These steppe nomads that entered from Central
Asia and are known as Saka from the inscriptions of the Persian Great
King Darius 1 (522-485 B.c.E.) contr~bute numerous pictures of ibexes.
deer, and predators featuring the Eurasian animal style (line drawings
15-7). They correspond to animal bronzes discovered in ~cythimku rgans
from Kazakhstan and Siberia. With the eastern expansion of the
~chaernenid-Persian kingdom in the 61h century B.C.E. and the establishL~
neD rawrng 1 1 Dadam Das, 2 Barlo Das, 3 Thor.4 Z~yarat5, Kalat Doduk,Bo
6Turr1l Nala. 7 Dong Nala
Llne Drawlng 2 1-3 Thalpan.4-5 Chllas 11.6 Barlo Das, 7Thalpan.B Shat~al
ment of the Indian provinces of Gandhara and Hindu5 (Sind), also Iranian
influence reaches the Upper lndus Valley. This is reflected in perfectly
rendered images of stylized horses, mythical creatures in the characteristic
bent-arm, bent-leg posture that indicates flying, and particularly, in
warrior figures dressed in Western Iranian costumes (line drawings 2,l-3,
fig. 1).
Under the reign of the Kushan dynasty (1" century C.E.). Buddhism
started to spread as a new belief system in the Upper lndus region. With
the beginning of the earlier Buddhist era, lasting from the 1'' to the 3rd
century, the region enters the stage of history, as engravings of stupas
worshipped by pilgrims (line drawings 2,4-5), scenes abundant with
figures and enthroned rulers (line drawing 2.6), and in particular, the first
inscriptions in Kharosthi show.
In the area concerned, the Buddhism reached its peak between the 51h
and 8'l' centuries. Small principalities were founded in the high mountain
areas, such as the powerful Great Palur of the Palola %hi dynasty in the
east (called Bolor in Tibetan sources), with its centre in Baltistan as well
as Little Palur (Tibetan Bruia) on the high plateau ofGilgit with Yasin that
borders in the west. Starting from the 7'l' century, those principalities fell
under the alternating rule of twogreat powers: the Chinese rang dynasty
and the Tibetan kingdom. The third political power were the Daradas or
Dards living in the southern part of the Upper lndus Valley. The kingdomfs
centre was located in the Nilum-Kishaganga area and from its outpost
chilas, situated at one of the main crossings of the lndus (possibly
the seat of a regional ruler), it controlled the route across the Babusar
pass leading to Kashmir and Taxila, an old centre of the Gandharan kingdom,
The imagery is dominated by numerous remarkable depictions of
,t,pas and images of the Buddha (fig. 4) that were engraved on both sides
of the lndus river along the developed traffic routes secured by sentry
posts and fortresses, at places of smaller sanctuaries, at river crossings.
and at central locations such as Shatial. Thor, Hodur and Chilas-~hal~an,
and Shing Nala. From the numerous religious buildings, particularly the
~tupaso, nly one monument has been preserved in an aln~ostc omplete
state, the "Minar of the Taj Moghal" ofJutial above Gilgit. Very sporadi-,
rui ns of these monuments can be observed in the Gilgit valley, in
Baltistan in the Buddhist hill settlement of Shigar, or at Surmo in the
shyok valley.
Due to their high artistic quality and vibrancy, several scenic depictions,
showing Jritaka scenes, that is episodes narrating previous existences
of the Buddha, are outstanding among the rock art. Three of them.
the Vyiighri or Tiger Jdtaka (line drawing 3.1), the &ipaticaka litaka or
Jitaka of the Greatest Evils (line drawing 3. 2), and the Sibi jdtoko (line
drawing 3,3), which adorn rocks at Chilas and Thalpan, were apparently
created by one and the same artist and can be dated to the 6Ih century. An
older depiction of the SibiJdtaka in Shatial is comparatively crude and
compared to theJdtakos of Chilas-Thalpan, shows more Gandharan influence.
(fig. 3). The magnificent composition consisting of two pagoda-like
stupas hints at the close connections between the Upper lndus region and
the Buddhist world laying beyond the "snowy mountains", namely Kashmir
and Gandhara.
The temptation of the Buddha by the beautihl daughters of the demon
king MHra, a popular motif in Gandharan art, is depicted on a rock in Thalpan
(line drawing 3.4). With the gesture of touching the earth with his
right hand (bhirnispariarnudri). the earth opens, the earth goddess testi-
Fig 3 Shatlal $~bJi atako,Stupas and lnscrlprtons in Kharosthi,Brahm~.andS ogd~an
Fig. 4 Thalpan. Sitting Bllddha
Fig. 5 Chilas III.Late Buddhist stupa worshipping scene and warriors with battleaxes
F1g.6 Chilar X.Post-Buddhist battle are symbols
356
Fig 7
Standlng Buddha In
the Kargah Valley
near Gllg~t
Fig.8 Buddha rock of Manthal near Skardu In Balt~stan
fies to the ~uddha'sv ictory over MLra (rndravgaya), and the temptresses
away quickly. He overcame this obstacle, and was subsequently enlighted
under the Bodhi tree near Urubilva, where Gautama became the
Buddha in a night of the full moon of the year 528 B.C.E. The first sermon
he gave as the Buddha in the Deer Park of Sarnath near varanasi
(Benares) is one of the most important events of the Buddha legend. ~t is
at Thalpan in an impressive engraving (line drawing 3,5). This
scene, very popular in Buddhist art, shows the Buddha in the company of
his first five disciples, who were companions of SiddhHrtha during his
phase of asceticism. The deer park is represented by two gazelles at the
bottom, and the wheel symbolizes the act of teaching. Among the most
beautiful images at Thalpan is the enthroned Buddha with his companion
~odhisattvaV ajrapPni portrayed in the background (line drawing 3.6).
Due to its highly artistic execution and its distinctive importance for
Buddhist imagery, an image found in Hodur-West has to be put in line
with the most impressive examples of this art genre represented along
the Upper lndus (fig. 2). It shows two Buddhas both seated on a single
pedestal with a stupa between them. Apparently, this depiction hints at
chapter 11 of the famous Lotos Sitra; one figure represents Sakyamuni,
the historical Buddha, the other Prabhijtaratna, a Buddha of the past. The
motif of the two sitting Buddhas with Prabhijtaratna's "Stupaof the seven
precious materials" is very popular in the Buddhist art of Central Asia and
China, as its numerous examples in paintings in the cave temples of
Dunhuang, Lung Men, and Yungang as well as on relief steles show.
The historical background of the Buddhist era in this region is particularly
apparent in inscriptions. In the earlier phase, they are written in
Kharosthi, whereas in the later phase of the 3rd to ath century, they use, in
large numbers, the BrPhmTscript (cf. Falk, p. 14). The inscriptions are often
added to images and render personal names and consecration formulas.
Over 700 Sogdian, but also Bactrian, Parthian, and Middle Persian inscriptions
that predominantly concentrate at Shatial, which is now interpreted
as a former market place, attest the presence of Parthian and particularly
Sogdian merchants from Samarkand. We can trace drawings of
Iranian fire altars (line drawing 2.8), tamgas interpreted as heraldic family
signs or emblems of cities such as Samarkand, and even Nestorian
crosses. These images not only mirror the special importance of the Sogdians
as merchants on the Silk Route, but also as mediators between the
great religions such as Buddhism. Christianity, Zoroastrianism and
Manichaeism. Among the most beautiful creations are the saddled but
riderless horses, that are, in Central Asian fashion, depicted in the pace
gait (line drawing 2.7). Hephthalithic, i.e. Hunnic, as well as Turkish
names appear in the inscriptions, too. Thirteen Chinese inscriptions,
probably applied by merchants or pilgrims, and even one composed in
Hebrew testify to the ethnic diversity of the region. A Chinese graffito on
the rock formation of Haldeikish in the Hunza valley, through which the
path up to the important pass leading to Kashgar in Xinjiang runs, mentions
even an envoy of the dynasty of the "Great Wei". This site represents
the most important epigraphic monument so far discovered in the
The Karakorum, with 131 inscriptions in Kharosthi, Brahmi. Sogdian. Chinese, and Tibetan.
From the 4th century onwards. anti-Buddhist influences appear on the
scene, which indicates the arrival of foreign horse-riding peoples from the
surrounding high mountain ranges of the Indus Valley. This new ethnic
element is represented by crude depictions of battle axes, round disks
which could be understood as reminiscent of sun symbols, and pictures of
riders and warriors (figs. 5 and 6). Images of attacking war axe people evidently
besieging Buddhists practically seem to defend stupas inform
about the political and religious changes taking place in the area. In the
northern regions, for instance, Gilgit and Baltistan. Buddhist traditions
seem to have kept flourishing. though. The approximately three-metre
high relief of a standing Buddha at Naupur in the Kargah Valley near
Gilgit depicts him with the right arm held aloft in the gesture of fearlessness
and indicates growing influence of Tibetan style in the century as
does the relief on a six-metre-high rock in Manthal near Skardu in
Baltistan (fig. 8). b here, together with 20 smaller Buddhas the meditating
Buddha is seated in a Mandala-shaped assembly. This exceptional composition
is flanked by two standing ~odhisattvasP; a dmapani with the lotus
to the left, Maitreya to the right. Below, a ptimaghaka, the Vase of Plenty.
is depicted (fig. 8). The only large-sized rock painting of ~haghdon ear
Skardu. showing a magnificent stupa worshipping scene with the Raja of
Shigar, attests to the final significant period of prosperity of Buddhism
during the 12th century.
Islamisation started from Kashmir in the 16th century and has its most
impressive monuments in the first characteristic mosques with rich wood
carving decoration in Khaplu. Shigar, and Skardu in Baltistan.
0 notes