adventurebeforedementia

[adventurebeforedementia]

Home late - thanks to Ciaran

We’re back home again after 67 days away - 24 hours later than intended after getting caught up in Storm Ciaran.

The storm hit Northern France hard and so we had to slightly change our plans. With Ciaran heading straight for us, we drove further than we intended on the penultimate day, to stay as close to the Channel Tunnel as possible for our last night. Then battered by strong winds and torrential rain, we crossed back into the U.K. and headed straight for a night at the Drum Inn pub in Ashford where we began our journey two months earlier, to let the storm pass.

Our last few days in France had been at a little village in Normandy - Les Andelys - on the banks of the River Seine and just 60 miles from Paris. The village was charming and a favourite stop for river cruise ships making their way through France. Having camped close to the shipping lane in Venice, we now found ourselves staying close to the shipping lane for river cruises in Les Andelys.

There were dozens of Americans spending their dollars here and the shops were geared up to catch these tourists. We prefer the natural and historic wonders, however, rather than those found on the High Street, so we headed for the ruin of the Chateau Gaillard that stands above the village. Building of the chateau began in 1196 under the auspices of Richard the Lionheart, who was simultaneously King of England and feudal Duke of Normandy.

The castle is listed as an historic monument and most of it is now in ruins but the inner Bailey is open to the public. You guessed it - we climbed up to the chateau and discovered it was the only day in the week when it was closed! We were able to explore the ruins, however, and enjoy the fabulous views across the river and surrounding countryside. It was well worth the climb.

Our drive through the Normandy towns and villages on our journey home- deliberately avoiding the sterile motorways - was so interesting with the trees showing off their stunning autumn colours. This has definitely been the most amazing trip.

We have driven almost 3,000 miles across Belgium and Luxembourg into Switzerland, Northern Italy and Southern and Northern France.

We have visited nine cities and numerous towns and villages and three spectacular lakes.

We have marvelled at eight Cathedrals, numerous parish churches, chateaux, ancient bridges and historic buildings.

We have visited bears, watched flamingoes in flight, seen herons go fishing and dodged a snake in the lake.

We have travelled miles on public transport - bus, train, ferry, boat and tram - and our bikes.

We have walked more than 450,000 steps.

We have eaten far too much gelato and too many cakes and drank too much wine and our fair share of cocktails.

But most importantly, we have visited Northern Italy which we have been wanting to do for years and spent time back in one of our favourite regions, the South of France.

We have met so many new people and helped a lovely French couple find their way to their friends’ house before being invited to spend the afternoon with them, even though they didn’t speak a word of English. Absolutely priceless.

And along the way, we have learnt some Italian and embarrassed ourselves enough in French that our grasp of the language must have improved - surely?

Now it’s time to give Big Boy a well deserved rest until our next great adventure.

#Normandy #Les Andelys #Storm Ciaran #Richard the Lionheart #Drum Inn

[adventurebeforedementia]

Pink flamingos and Halloween

Leaving Miravel where we had stayed to visit Montpelier, we were lucky to see the resident pink flamingos. It was great to see these birds in flight as they joined hordes of their flock on the salt marshes, creating a sea of pink just outside the village.

Travelling north, we drove through the Ardeche Mountains National Park - said to be the best place in France. The autumn colours on the trees were beautiful and we passed through tiny villages as the road wound through the mountains. At one point, the road was actually cut into the rock face with a sheer drop to one side - absolutely terrifying. Then it was a case of what goes up must come down as we faced a steep hill for several kilometres coming down the other side - equally frightening. But the journey was so worth it as the countryside was stunning.

Here there is a famous hiking route, the Chemin de Stevenson, inspired by a trip taken by the author Robert Louis Stevenson and his donkey.

Now we have travelled several hundred miles to the centre of France, leaving the warm southern weather behind. It’s noticeably cooler with showers and we’re definitely feeling this change in temperature.

We have been visiting the city of Bourges, famous for its half timbered houses.

Another city and another cathedral; this one has been built in the Gothic-style with a cavernous interior of stone columns and 13th Century stained glass. Over the last four years, the church, which is dedicated to Saint Stephen and is the seat of the Archbishop of Bourges, has undergone a multi million pound restoration project.

In the centre of this small city, a tree sculptor had been commissioned to carve a sculpture from two giant old trees which died this summer. The trees were so much a part of Bourges that the city wanted to preserve them for future generations.

During our visit, we found an interesting Art Deco park sitting next to the canal. The park was created in the 1920s and included fountains and colourful planting alongside arches of conifer trees and even an amphitheatre. This park was a lovely peaceful place to take a break from the sightseeing.

Halloween is in full swing here and across the city, shops and their staff are holding nothing back with their decorations and costumes. Children have been getting into the spirit of of the season as well and the streets are full of witches, ghosts and all manner of super heroes. Halloween is big business in France.

We are on the last leg of our journey now and tomorrow we head further north for our final stop on the banks of the River Seine.

#Bourges #Flamingos #Gothic #Halloween #Ardeche Mountains

[adventurebeforedementia]

Walking in sunshine

We are back in the sunshine now and have been exploring France’s fastest growing city, Montpelier. This city is the third largest near to the Mediterranean coast and the seventh largest in France.

Travelling around the city is easy on the brightly coloured trams that weave around the streets, and we headed first to the Place de La Comedie. This square is named after a theatre which burned down in the 1700s and it is where the fortifications of the city were formally located. With the school’s half term about to begin, children were loving the old fashioned carousel.

We visited the Cathedral of Saint Pierre with its two unique towers at the front entrance door. The cathedral, built in the Gothic style, is a national monument. It’s just as impressive once you’re inside the building with its giant columns, stained glass windows and oil paintings. When the bells chime the hour, they can be heard right across the city.

We were also visited The Tour de la Babote which is a relic of the 12th century fortifications around Montpellier’s historical centre. The tower became an observatory in 1745 and was taken over by the Académie des Sciences. It has been listed as a historical monument since 1927.

Montpelier’s old town was charming and hanging high above these little streets were 400 pink umbrellas to mark Pink October’s breast cancer awareness campaign.

As you know if you’ve been following this blog, we love a market especially in Europe where they display all the regional produce. Montpelier’s best market is on a Tuesday and Saturday under the arches of the old aqueduct.

The aqueduct, built in the middle of the 18th century, is the largest hydraulic private project ever made in France. It is 800 metres long and has 53 arches on two levels. The project brought spring water to a water tower in the city.

Now it towers over the countryside and a huge variety of market stalls shelter under its arches twice a week selling food, wine, clothes and all manner of interesting and unusual crafts.

We wandered through the market and couldn’t resist buying fresh croissants and a strawberry and pistachio tart. Should have stuck to the fruit stalls, but no one makes croissants and tarts like the French so it’s worth the extra calories.

Alex couldn’t resist Fitzpatrick’s Irish bar for a pint of Guinness. I’ve been insisting he drinks the local French and Italian wines during our trip as they are excellent. But as we’re heading home soon I guess he’s never going to leave Blighty behind completely.

As we headed back to the station, we got caught up in a protest march in support of Palestinians. This march was just one of many taking place in the major cities across Europe. Hundreds of supporters carrying flags and banners were marching through the streets and there was a heavy police presence. Station staff had locked down the building for security and it took us and other travellers a while to find a way in.

We loved Montpelier. It was quieter than many of the other cities we have visited on our trip and it was easier to get around without so many tourists.

We are leaving here tomorrow, heading north to Bourges and away from the beautiful sunny days in the south as we slowly make our way home.

#Montpelier #breast cancer #market #guinness #cathedral

[adventurebeforedementia]

Beautiful Côte d’Azur

We’ve been walking in the footsteps of the world’s top celebrities on the Côte d’Azur. Our trip along the French Riviera has taken us to Cannes - famous for its international film festival - and Antibes and St Tropez - home of 60’s film star, Bridgette Bardot among many other A list celebrities.

At each of these towns, the harbours are jam packed with the most luxurious yachts, travelling from London, New York and across Europe to visit. Luxury villas can be rented here with staring prices of 27,000 Euros a week, rising to eye-watering sums for the most unique.

But that’s OK. We don’t need a luxury pad. We’re quite at home in Big Boy and we were just happy to find out more about what makes these towns so special.

Cannes’ connection with the stars can be seen everywhere, not least in the street art which can be found across the town. Huge murals of Marilyn Monroe, French actors and comedians and a detailed painting which included Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers, Laurel and Hardy, Batman and Robin and the Star Wars’ robots among others are painted on the buildings.

We loved Cannes’ old town and harbour front. During our stay, we celebrated our 36th wedding anniversary, eating fabulously fresh seafood at one of the quay restaurants in one of our most favourite parts of Europe.

A quick train ride took us to Antibes, a really charming place with its old town enclosed with ramparts. The Nomad of Antibes - an unusual sculpture designed by a Spanish artist of a man looking out to sea - sits on part of the ramparts adjoining the port. The statue was created as part of a temporary exhibition but is now owned by the city and the Picasso Museum, so now it belongs to Antibes.

At both Cannes and Antibes, the daily fruit and flower markets are really special. Here you can buy a huge variety of fruit and vegetables, spices, olives, fish, meat and the most beautiful bouquets. We love a good market and bought plenty of fresh fruit.

After saying goodbye to Cannes, we headed along the coast road to the Gulf of St Tropez and dropped into the town for a quick visit.

St Tropez started life as a fishing village and it still has a fish market decorated with elaborate tiles marking its past. It also has a long connection with artists and, even though we had lost the sun and it was threatening rain, they were still out in force on the quayside.

But St Tropez as you can imagine, is extremely expensive. You’ll pay 10 Euros for a tea or coffee just to be sitting at the quayside. Our budget doesn’t stretch to such luxury, so we headed off on the next part of our trip.

Now we are staying just outside Montpelier and looking forward to exploring the city. The clouds have moved in and there’s not much sun, but it’s still warm and better than the U.K. weather. So we’re not complaining.

#Cote d’Azur #Cannes #Antibes #St Tropez #French Riviera #Celebrities

[adventurebeforedementia]

Genoa and Cinque Terre

The Cinque Terre - five villages with brightly coloured houses built into the hillside on the rugged Italian Riviera coast and designated a Natural Park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site - were the main reason we made a stop in Genoa.

We could have stayed closer than the two hour before dawn train ride needed to reach them, but we also wanted to visit the city. So we decided to get up early, grab jam filled croissants for breakfast from the little bakery in the town and take the train.

Once the early morning commuters had left, it was a lovely ride with great views of the coastline before we arrived at Monterossa, the first village on our stop. This is the largest of the villages with a lovely beach and lemons, vines and olives growing on the hills.

From here, we could hike through the next four villages in six hours with stops. Don’t be ridiculous! it was so much more sensible to buy tickets for the Cinque Terre Express and take the train. It takes just five minutes to travel from one village to the next.

Next stop was Vernazza, probably the prettiest of the five. The sun shining across the port onto it’s coloured houses was just stunning.

These villages grew up as fishing communities and it’s said that the fishermen painted their houses in bright colours so they could see them from the sea. Each has its own castle, built as a fortress to protect the community from Turkish pirates.

We decided to miss out the third village as it is the least known and least visited with its lack of port and difficult accessibility. We needed to save time at some point on this journey if we were going to make it back in one day.

The final two villages were just as charming as the previous ones. At our final stop Riomaggiore, Alex persuaded me to take the cliff walk. Here we go again! Why do I always let him talk me into this? Pleased to say I made it, grabbing onto his hand a little too tightly at certain points, and loved the views.

After battling our way through the tourists to see these lovely places and with a couple of hours to spare, we found a beach bar and finished our visit with Pineapple Mojitos. Cheers!

Our visit to Genoa earlier in our stay had thrown up some interesting quirky facts, not least at the city’s Cathedral. This black and white marble building was hit during the Second World War by a shell fired by the British naval fleet. The bomb crashed through the church ceiling but failed to explode. Now it is on show to visitors in the church.

While sculptors were working on the Cathedral in the 14th Century, a little dog befriended them and came to sit with them every day. When he failed to return one day, the story goes that the sculptors were so sad they carved a statue of the dog sleeping, in the marble at the main entrance door. The tiny dog is still there to this day.

The city’s central square the Piazza De Ferrari, has a mix of buildings of different styles including the opera house. In the middle of the square stands an impressive giant brass fountain.

Our next stop was the Port of Genoa, the Porto Antico, which hosted the World Expo 1992. From there we walked through the old town with its narrow covered walkways and alleys, known as “caruggi”, which can be found in towns and cities along the Italian Riviera.

We have now swapped the Italian Riviera for the French Riviera and we are soaking up the sun in Cannes in the south of France.

[adventurebeforedementia]

Fighting “flu” in Florence

The next leg of our journey has taken us to the beautiful Renaissance city of Florence. Staying just three miles from the centre, we had the choice to take the campsite shuttle bus or cycle along the River Arno.

As Alex had developed a cold, we decided to take the shuttle bus. So after reassuring him that he would be fine, kitting him out with paracetamol, inhaler and tissues and refuting his claims that he had flu, we set off to conquer the city. No chance to weaken on this trip!

We have seen some incredible churches on our journey, each one impressive in its own right. Florence Cathedral, its bell tower and baptistery were no exception. The buildings are constructed in green, pink and white marble and are spectacular.

We queued for an hour to go inside and were rewarded with an equally impressive interior from the stunning marble floor to the painting on the dome ceiling above the altar. The painting was so intricate, and I think if we had looked at it for hours we would have continued to see new detail, some of it particularly gruesome.

In the 1960s, archaeologists discovered the ancient basilica of Santa Reparata below the present church. The visitor can see the construction phases of one of the first Christian temples in the history of Florence.

Numerous bridges cross the river but the most famous is Ponte Vecchio. Known as the Old Bridge, it was the only one in Florence until 1218 and the only one the fleeing Germans did not destroy during the Second World War.

On this trip, We have eaten so much ice cream. Of course, this is no surprise because the Italians make the best ice cream in the world and Florence is the birthplace of gelato. We discovered a little shop tucked away where we didn’t pay tourist prices for our gelato and it had no additives or artificial flavourings or colourings. The proof of its excellence was the half hour queue we had to join to place our order. It was wonderful.

After adding more calories, we decided to try to burn them off with a trek up Forte Belvedere. The fortress is the largest in Florence and it’s a hard climb just to reach the entrance. We climbed to the top - I managed to conquer this one without my fear of heights surfacing - and we had views across the city. Unfortunately, there were two cranes in front of the view of the Cathedral and we assume this is why the powers that be had waived the entrance fee!

On our final day in Florence, we took a 10 mile bike ride along the river. It was great to get away from the tourists for a while and enjoy the countryside and the superb weather.

Now we’re in Genoa - Alex has bounced back and shared his cold with me - and we’re exploring a new city.

#Florence #Gelato #Ponte Vecchio

[adventurebeforedementia]

Autumn in Bologna

So many beautiful places to see in Italy and autumn seems the perfect time for this adventure. So much history, wall-to-wall sunshine, 30 degrees plus and dodging the rain in Blighty. What more could you want?

We’ve been clocking up the steps in Bologna, taking in the sights and experiencing the Italian way of life in this lovely country. We’re learning more about how things work and meeting so many new people from across Europe and beyond.

It was an easy journey into Bologna by public bus which came into the campsite for pick up and drop off. Bologna is famous as the birthplace of Marconi, the inventor of radio and his contribution is credited across the city.

Our first stop was the Salaborsa Library where the remains of an ancient Roman city are hidden below. Visitors can see the ruins through the floor of the library and go underground to explore further. Two main streets and the remains of an ancient sewage system built in the 2nd and 3rd Centuries BC can be seen. But deeper ruins suggest an even earlier settlement was there before the founding of Bologna.

The heart of the city is Piazza Maggiore and is home to the Basilica of San Petronio which is Bologna’s most beloved and important church - but not it’s Cathedral, that is in another part of the city. The Basilica is dedicated to Petronius, the patron saint of the city, but it was never finished because the project was considered too complicated.

Piazza Santo Stefano is also an important site, named after the Basilica Santo Stefano which was in fact, built as not one church but a complex of seven. Restoration work in the 1800s changed the shape of the complex and four churches now remain.

Inside, you can wander through this incredible building where every section has its own story to tell. There you can see the remains of the monastery of Santo Stefano and its cloister and the oldest nativity scene in the world.

Bologna also has a 60km network of underground canals, the latest dating back to the 12th Century. These channels are now largely covered but we were able to view the “window on the canal” and this area of the city is known as “little Venice”.

Alex has been scaling the heights again. He climbed the Asinelli Tower - the highest authentic Mediaeval tower in Italy at 97 metres high. It was originally built in 1150 to defend the city but is now a major tourist attraction.

This climb was challenging to say the least as most of the others attempting this feat were considerably younger - by about 40 years! To get to the top, Alex climbed 498 steps in a winding stone and wooden staircase only wide enough for one person. There was a sheer drop to one side and a small, wooden handrail to the other.

He had to make the climb without stopping to catch his breath because he was being pursued by the 20-somethings coming up behind him. His reward was a fabulous 360 degree panoramic view of the city - but I was more worried that he was going to have a heart attack before reaching the top!

After surviving this ordeal - sorry heroic challenge - we felt it wouldn’t be right to come to Bologna without sampling one of its delicious cakes. So we found a little coffee shop tucked away in one of its historic streets and added probably half a stone each with a Primavera. It was so worth it!

Now we’re in Florence, walking off the Primavera and continuing on the next stage of our Italian adventure.

#Bologna #Asinelli Tower #Basilica of San Stefano #Roman city ruins #Canal

[adventurebeforedementia]

Beautiful Venice

Who wouldn’t fall in love with beautiful Venice? This unique city sitting on its own lagoon where everything is connected by the canal system, is an amazing place; but it’s also a challenge.

The maze of narrow streets, bridges and waterways combined with thousands of tourists and 30 degree heat made Venice an exhausting prospect. Luckily, we were staying just a 20 minute ferry ride away so it was very easy to get in and back out again.

We loved the history and the architecture - beautiful St Mark’s Square where a four piece band played to diners and those who had stopped for a coffee or a glass of wine. Doge’s Palace was incredible and we enjoyed the view from the Rialto Bridge along the canal as the gondolas manoeuvred through the busy waterway.

We also found the Bridge of Sighs - a famous Venice landmark - which connects the palace to the old prison cells.

Searching for an escape from the crowds, we headed for the Ca’ Rezzonico, a Baroque palace on the Canal Grande now the home of a museum on 18th Century Venice. At the back of the museum there is a peaceful garden and a fountain where turtles and Coi Carp live. It was the perfect place to rest in the shade before the next round of sightseeing.

Obviously, the city has its fair share of designer shops and in the shopping centre tourists can book a free ticket to go onto the roof for a view of the city. Alex took the lift to the terrace - but unsurprisingly I stayed below!

Our final stop was at The Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari - the largest church in the city - which houses, among others, the tomb of the composer Monteverdi, a pioneer of Opera. So much history but we lost our way more than once, and had to catch a later ferry when we couldn’t find the terminal, as we tried to navigate this unusual city.

#Venice #St Mark’s Square #Gondola #Tourist

[adventurebeforedementia]

Rooftop Milan and snake in the lake

We spent the last day of our stay in Milan visiting the magnificent Cathedral (Duomo). The building is huge and so impressive inside with its massive marble columns and stained glass windows.

Alex decided he had to go onto the roof to get a bird’s eye view of the city. Have fun with that! No way was I going to go up there onto a sloping roof and terrace hundreds of feet off the ground. Just tell me all about it and show me the photos!

We also visited the Cathedral Museum where pieces go to be restored and are kept there for visitors to see while being replaced on the church by replicas. This protects historic statues, tapestries and some of the architects’ ancient models used to create the pieces, for future generations.

We travelled back from the city in a thunderstorm and torrential rain and on the bus journey remembered we had left Big Boy’s roof open! So we spent the next few days drying out soggy rugs and carpets. Another lesson learned!

Our next stop on our trip was the west coast of beautiful Lake Garda - Italy’s largest lake which takes its green colour from its minerals. We had a brilliant lake view pitch at this site and could see across to the mountains beyond.

Alex decided the lake was too good not to take a dip. But tempting as it was to join him, the sight of a water snake swimming just feet from the shore soon changed my mind. Apparently, there are many snakes that swim in the lake, some up to 20 feet long. Yeh I’m not getting in there!

So after four days relaxing by the water and a trip to Moniga del Garda with the ruins of its castle walls dating back to the 10th Century and impressive views of the lake, we left heading for Venice.

Just as we arrived at the next stop on our adventure, the MSC Sinfonia cruise ship escorted by tug boats, passed within inches of our campsite. It was an impressive sight. The ship has a permanent mooring in Venice and it’s 2,000 mainly Italian passengers were returning home or transferring to alternative transport for the next stage of their journeys.

Tomorrow we will take the 20 minute ferry ride to Venice and spend the next three days exploring the city.

#Milan Cathedral #Lake Garda #Snake #Cruise ship #Rooftop view #Adventure

[adventurebeforedementia]

Lago di Como e Milano

Staying just a stone's throw from the lake shore in Domaso was so relaxing and a mixed bag of weather including three thunderstorms and the odd cloudy day failed to spoil this wonderful place.

We took the local buses to visit several of the medieval villages which sit on the shores of the lake. These tiny communities with houses tucked away down cobbled streets are a valuable reminder of a past era. But no matter how small the community we always found the most impressive historic church with its doors unlocked welcoming visitors.

Inside, the buildings were lavishly decorated with vibrant paintings on both the walls and ceilings and gold leaf, marble and the most stunning stained glass windows. Visitors travel across the world to marvel at great cathedrals but these parish churches are no less spectacular and so well cared for by their clergy and parishioners.

Menaggio is one of the prettiest towns on Lake Como so we couldn't leave the lake without visiting. During the Second World War the town hosted fascist leaders and wealthy families of Milan who moved to villas on the lake to escape the air raids.

The colourful historic buildings were impressive and a climb up "cardiac hill" - and several stops along the way to make sure we were still breathing - gave us a fabulous view across the town to the lake.

After a last bike ride round Como, we left the peace and quiet for the crowds of tourists in Milan. Stepping out of the Metro station we were immediately faced with the fabulous Gothic Cathedral of white marble - one of the largest cathedrals in Europe and just stunning. A great way to start our visit.

Another major landmark which can't fail to impress is the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, one of Italy's oldest shopping galleries and a major landmark with its glass domed roof.

Having bagged a tourist map, we set of on foot and 23,000 steps later we had taken a look at most of the major attractions including the Basilica, Opera House, Leonardo Da Vinci Science and Technology Museum and various impressive churches. After a walk along the canal with its resident artists and an array of stalls we made a brief stop to relax over a glass of Chianti.

A visit to Milan - the Mecca of fashion - wouldn’t have been complete without a trip to the fashion district, especially as Milan Fashion Week starts tomorrow (19 September). Most of the major fashion houses and labels are based in Milan and outside the flash shops, yellow and purple Lamborghinis, black and silver Porsches and chauffeur driven Mercedes were parked up while their wealthy owners shopped in these exclusive outlets where you must ring the bell to be admitted. I’m sure I couldn’t even afford the clothes hanger let alone the item hanging on it, so I didn’t get past the front windows.

In stark contrast, we were lucky enough to be in the city for the annual Hari Krishna parade. This colourful, traditional parade with its music and dance and highly decorated float was great to see.

We're back into Milan this afternoon for a last visit before heading on to the next stop on our adventure.

#Milan #Lake Como #Cathedral #Travel #Italy #Visit #Tourist #Fashion

[adventurebeforedementia]

Stunning lakes and mountains

We've driven through Switzerland along roads cutting through the mountains and as we came out of each tunnel, the views were stunning. But nothing could have prepared us for the picture perfect Lake Maggiore in Italy.

Our campsite sat at the top of a hill just a stone's throw from the west coast of the lake. From the site in Baveno the view was incredible and we never tired of this massive stretch of water.

We took a boat out to the Borromean Islands - Isola Bella, Isola Pescatori and Isola Madre. These small islands are owned by the Borromeo family and a palace and tiered garden on Bella was built for Countess Isabella Borromeo by her husband.

After exploring Baveno with its historic church and lake front park, we walked to nearby Stresa, the main tourist area. There we found winding lanes of shops and cafes and a trip to Italy wouldn't have been complete without sampling the ice cream. There was every conceivable flavour and even a good range of dairy free options for me.

As we are staying near water, we've heard all the stories about the local and visiting mosquitoes that love to feast on tourists. Alex is plagued by these biting insects and has ended up in A and E in the past after being bitten. So he was taking no chances on this trip.

He's kitted himself out with an impressive armoury of weapons - sprays, wipes, plug ins and wrist bands - and declared war on the whole mosquito population.

Personally, I think he has gone a little over the top but then I would say that when he's being targeted for breakfast, lunch and dinner while I'm being largely ignored. But annoyingly, the little blighters are running the barricades and getting through.

Maybe he'll have more luck at Lake Como where we have pitched up now. Again, we are staying close to the lake shore and this area is no less impressive although more crowded.

[adventurebeforedementia]

Switzerland, Italy and beyond....

30th August 2023

We're off on our next big adventure having travelled through Belgium, Luxembourg, France and into Switzerland as part of a 66-day tour of Northern Italy and back through the French Riviera. Our trip will take us to three of the Italian Lakes and some of the major cities including Milan, Venice and Florence before heading to Cannes and St Tropez.

We left the UK six days ago after spending the night before our Channel crossing in a favourite little pub campsite in Folkestone - the perfect place to relax over a glass of wine.

The following day having crossed into France and driven down to a rustic campsite off the beaten track deep in the countryside in Belgium, we found ourselves parked up next to a Dutchman and his dog who were our neighbours in the pub all those hours earlier. In fact, we had actually followed his motorhome out of the pub car park to The Shuttle terminal. What are the chances? Thoughts crossed our minds that we might have a stalker!

We are now staying at a campsite on the River Aare, a stunning turquoise river which takes its colour from the rocks below and winds through beautiful Bern in Switzerland. Bern has the bear as its namesake and emblem and bear statues feature big here. We visited the family of brown bears that live in the bear pit and gardens in the centre of the city. We were lucky to see all three of them.

At midday, we headed for the famous Zytglogge - clock tower - to watch the mechanical circus figures including a jester, parade of bears and golden rooster perform to mark the hour. But the clock was broken - well of course it was! If you have been following this blog you will know that this is a recurring theme on our trips.

Visits to the Cathedral, Parliament building, the Town Hall, Rose Garden for fabulous views across the city and a long walk by the river to the Botanical Gardens ensured that we saw more or less everything Bern had to offer. From one of the bridges in the city it is possible to see the Alps and the famous Matterhorn.

We completed our two day visit with a trip to the Einstein Museum where Alex managed to have a conversation with Einstein's Avatar! Not sure what the famous physicist would have made of that.

Our small taste of Switzerland has been brilliant but very expensive - there's only so many times the budget will stretch to a couple of coffees and the feeling that you've just been sold shares in the cafe!

Tomorrow we leave Bern and cross into Italy where we will be staying close to Lake Maggiore.

[adventurebeforedementia]

We’re back….

After almost six weeks away, we have finally made it back home.

We spent the last part of our trip at Maryport Marina in the Lake District. This pretty little harbour port was once the site of a Roman fort, where 1,000 soldiers were stationed, and a settlement of houses, workshops and granaries that supported the fort.

This fort linked to a chain of fortresses from the Solway Firth to Hadrian’s Wall, making Maryport one of the most important sites in Britain. It was a major trade centre during the time of the Roman Empire.

A museum now sits on the site of the fort and we visited to see the 27 altars, artefacts and pottery discovered in the area, which are now stored there.

After leaving Maryport, we dropped in for a couple of days with some old friends in Shropshire. It’s been a while - 25 years in fact - since we last saw them, so there was a great deal of catching up to do. But as is the way with good friendships, we picked up where we left off and promised to make the next meeting a lot sooner!

On our journey we have:

Driven the North Coast 500 and our trip has taken us 2,011 miles in total

Stood on the top of Britain and stayed in the most northern town

Reunited with relatives from Scotland and America and met new friends

Tossed the caber, thrown the wellie and the haggis and found that we still have the energy to dance a Virginia Reel.

Tried oat stout, heather flower gin, vegetarian haggis and haggis flavoured crisps

Visited four castles, two distilleries, many historic sites and been amazed by stunning scenery including, lochs and mountains, and incredible sunsets.

Weathered rain, gale force winds, mist, beautiful sunny days and a heatwave.

Now we are booking Big Boy in for a new wing mirror and planning our next trip.

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Full on celebration

After arriving in Edinburgh, we had a chance for some sightseeing before the wedding celebrations began. So we visited the Scots Monument, watched a local band including piper, entertain the crowds in Princes Street and visited the National Gallery before meeting the family for dinner.

The following day we caught up with the brothers and their families again to visit the underground vaults. These candle lit passages in the Old Town, dating back to the 1700s, are considered to be the most haunted places on earth. The tour took us under the South Bridge where the poor and homeless lived, a witches’ coven gathered and crime was rife. I didn’t want to spend too much time down there and wouldn’t have gone near the place without a guide with a good torch!

It was finally time to start the wedding celebrations at the spectacular Borthwick Castle - one of Scotland’s best preserved fortifications dating back to 1430. But before we could relax and celebrate John and Stephanie’s wedding, we had to go to war with the other guests at the Highland Games in the walled gardens. We were divided into three clans and after we had added our war paint, we went into battle.

Our first challenge was to toss the caber. No mean feat, a long telegraph pole rested on your shoulder which you are expected to toss so that it lands on its end and falls forward. I’m proud to say we both took on the task and successfully delivered even though mine landed on the row of bunting completely flattening the Scottish flags and poles! A guest commented: “Typical English, trying to scupper the Scottish Highland games!”

Then it was onto tossing the log on a piece of rope backwards over your head and clearing a metal bar. Every time we successfully achieved this, the bar was moved higher and I was terrified one of us would be knocked unconscious.

Throwing the wellie and the haggis, learning a Scottish reel - a major cardiac workout - and trying to get a musical note out of the bagpipes completed the two hour games. Our reward - a barbecue - and the whole event proved a real ice-breaker allowing us to meet the other guests before the big day.

The wedding itself was stunning. Guests were welcomed to the castle by a piper who also played a key role in the ceremony earning a traditional dram of whisky from the bride for his efforts.

The ceremony took place at the top of the tower accessed by many flights of spiral stairs. Negotiating these steps in high heels proved almost as challenging as the games. Stephanie looked radiant and John every bit the smart clansman in his specially made Innes clan tartan kilt for the occasion. After dinner and speeches, Stephanie and John’s favourite band entertained the guests until midnight.

No sooner had we left than we were back again at the castle for the third day and the final farewell Scottish brunch. This was a chance to catch up with new friends and say goodbye to Alex’s brother John and his family as they prepared to return to the States.

We spent our final day in Scotland with Alex’s oldest brother, Michael and his daughter. We went to Crieff to visit the family’s home town. The brothers had grown up here and we saw their old family home and primary school before taking a tour of Morrison’s Academy independent school where all three won scholarships to attend; another trip down memory lane 55 years on. There was also time to walk to the top of The Knock for a fabulous view across the town to the mountains beyond.

After saying goodbye, we left Edinburgh and are now pitched up in Maryport Marina in the Lake District for the final leg of this amazing journey.

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The west coast and beyond…..

We have travelled up and down the Isle of Skye visiting the landmarks and historic sites in the south and north of the island from our base at Portree. Portree is the most picturesque of the towns and villages on this island with its harbour and brightly coloured houses and shops.

We climbed to meet the Old Man of Storr - a rock formation which has an old man’s face which you might be able to see on the right hand side of our photo. Then it was further north to see Kilt Rock and the Mealtfalls.

Travelling south, we visited the Fairy Pools, a collection of waterfalls - tributaries from the River Brittle - that flow down the side of the hill into crystal clear pools.

Leaving Skye, we called into Eilean Donan Castle which sits on a tiny tidal island, where three sea lochs meet, on the Kyle of Lochalsh peninsula. It’s reputed to be the best castle in Britain and one of the most iconic images of Scotland, surrounded by stunning scenery, so deserved to be visited.

It was a wet and cold day - more reminiscent of November then July - so I wasn’t looking forward to crossing the concrete causeway to a freezing historic relic which has its origins in the 6th Century. Alex insisted, however, that I had to leave the warmth of Big Boy and venture out. I was so glad I did when we walked through the front entrance into a magnificent room with a roaring fire and a lovely guy dressed in full Scottish regalia who gave us the best welcome. Quite tempting as it was to stay there, I managed to push on and complete the visit.

Our journey took us on to Oban where we had the best crab sandwiches from a seafood shack on the seafront. No better place to eat seafood than the west coast of Scotland where it comes straight from the trawlers and obviously costs a fraction of the usual price.

Alex’s brother, his wife and son flew in from America at this point to stay for a few days in Glasgow before moving onto Edinburgh for their eldest son’s wedding. So we headed over to the city to spend a couple of days with them.

The weather has been glorious, so we took the Hop On Hop Off bus to visit the major tourist attractions including one of the city’s four cathedrals which includes the tomb of Saint Mungo, the patron saint of Glasgow. We also discovered an impressive mural of a modern day interpretation of the saint. This is just one of many interesting murals that have been painted across this city.

We dropped into Strathclyde University where Alex, his brother and his wife all studied for their degrees. This nostalgic trip down memory lane after 40 years made them realise very quickly that it was never going to be as they remembered it. But at least they went back and could talk about the good old days when they were carefree students in this city and where his brother and his wife met all those years ago.

A visit to the Botanic Gardens and various pub stops for food, beer, Guinness, of course, and wine completed our short stay. There’s so much to see in Glasgow and, even though this was our third visit since Alex left there all those years ago, I know we will be back to visit it again.

Now we are in Edinburgh for a week as we countdown to the grand reunion of this branch of the Innes clan at the three day wedding. Alex’s oldest brother and his daughter fly in tomorrow and it’s the first time the brothers will have all been together for 10 years. I would imagine there will be much whisky drinking and story sharing over the coming week.

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Over the sea to Skye

We have just driven from the Kyle of Lochalsh peninsula across the bridge to the Isle of Skye and we are staying at Portree. The weather is beautiful and the campsite has an impressive mountain as it’s backdrop. So many great places.

In the last week, we have completed our journey across the north visiting Tongue and Scourie and headed down the west coast to Lochinver and Ullapool. The North Atlantic Drift passes Ullapool, moderating the temperature. A few New Zealand cabbage trees are grown in the town and are often mistaken for palm trees, giving the place a Mediterranean feel.

During our journey through the spectacular scenery, we were lucky enough to see a golden eagle hunting across the mountains and swooping down over the loch. This magnificent bird with a massive wingspan, was soaring and diving to catch its prey.

We decided to take the more scenic coastal route from Lochinver to Ullapool despite the warnings that it wasn’t suitable for buses or caravans. No mention of motorhomes here so we pressed on. In places, the road was nothing more than a single track with hairpin bends and steep drops. It took us almost an hour and a half to cover 30 miles as we had to pull over and even reverse to let other traffic through and then there were the cyclists to avoid.

As we emerged unscathed from the experience and proud of our achievement, we stopped to take a photo of Ullapool harbour. A motorhome with a German couple on board sped past and hit Big Boy’s wing mirror, catapulting the glass into the grass verge. Without Alex slamming his hand on the horn, it was unlikely they would have stopped because they had driven a considerable distance before pulling over. Luckily, we managed to salvage the glass, tape it back in place and unfortunately we will be going home more battered than we arrived.

We also visited the mile long Corrieshalloch Gorge which takes its name from the Gaelic meaning ‘ugly hollow’. But that couldn’t be further from the truth as you gaze down over a series of crashing waterfalls into the gorge below. The gorge is one of the most spectacular of its kind in Britain. I drew the line at crossing the suspension bridge over it, however, and was not alone in deciding that was a step too far.

After leaving Ullapool, we headed to Gairloch and then onto Applecross. As we drove through the countryside, we noticed a magnificent stag had come out into the open and was standing among the cars and visitors in a parking bay. He wasn’t at all concerned by the people or the cars and has clearly made a habit of dropping in to blag a few snacks. Incredible to be able to be so close to such a wonderful animal in its own environment.

There are two routes into Applecross - the shorter one, originally a cattle track, goes up and over the mountain; the second one goes up and round the mountain following the coast. We decided to take the second, known as ‘the coward’s way’, and we’re so glad we did. It was still hair-raising driving on the edge of the mountain on a single track road with sheer drops. I can’t imagine how terrifying the other one must be but I’m not planning to find out anytime soon. This little hamlet sits in the most breathtaking scenery and it was well worth the long drive. We were once again dodging the sheep on the road and one decided to play kamikaze pilot just as we were passing by, narrowly missing being hit as it ran out in front of us.

The greatest moments on this journey have been the simple pleasures, such as a picnic beside the road with the amazing loch and mountain scenery all around. But best of all, we’re doing this in the middle of a working week with no work to go back to. We’ve waited a long time to be able to say that.

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On the top of Britain

We stayed close to the beach at Dornoch - a massive expanse of golden sand - at the top of the east coast. There’s no better place than a deserted Scottish beach when the sun is shining. You won’t see people fighting for sun loungers here.

In Scotland, there are castles, distilleries and stunning scenery at every turn. So we found an historic bar in Dornoch and sampled the locally distilled whisky and gin.

Then we headed up onto the northern most tip of Britain to John O’Groats and a fabulous view of the Orkney Islands. The sea in the Pentland Firth, between the Scottish mainland and the Orkneys, reaches some of the fastest speeds in the world - here the waves regularly hit 16 feet.

At the furthest end of this point is the Last House - lived in by the community midwife for 80 years in the 19th Century and now a tiny pub and microbrewery. So we had to sample some of the latest brews. Alex loves Guinness so he ordered the Deep Groat oat stout and I had the heather flower gin. Just the perfect place to escape a storm blowing in from the coast and battering Big Boy.

The Castle of Mey sits just back from the coast and we dropped in for a visit. The castle was bought in 1952 by the Queen Mother for just £100 - the cost of the slate on the roof. She had just lost her husband, King George VI, and took on the restoration of this 16th Century building as a distraction. The Queen Mother visited twice every year and after her death, the running of the building was put in the hands of trustees, overseen by Prince Charles. He visits every August for a month when the castle closes to visitors.

Now we have driven along the top coast of Scotland and are heading down the west coast. We have passed through the most incredible scenery of lochs and mountains, taking care to avoid the sheep which regularly cross the road or just stand in the middle of this mainly single track oblivious to the dangers.

For the next three days we are staying in a stunning bay with beach and there’s a pub next door. Can’t get much better than that!