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[faranae]

I remember you once said you have a very fast typing speed! I've been wanting to increase mine but I'm not sure if those typing teaching programs are as effective on adults as they would be if I had used them when I was a kid. Do you have any tips?

As always, this is all advice from personal experience and I do not advise you take me 100% on my word because other folks could do this way better. I say "you" a lot but usually mean "in my experience". If you know me at all you'll be prepared for the tangents, if not this is your warning. ♥

Okay so this is actually a really interesting one for me, because I had a sort of.... Odd upbringing with regards to computers and typing. I was raised on my Nana's typewriter, frequently getting in trouble for doing "typed" school assignments without a computer. (She blessedly put a stop to that once she realized why I kept getting docked marks.)

We were formally taught using AlphaSmarts. Some folks from my generation will probably recognize these bad boys:

Needless to say, they weren't exactly stellar when it comes to training for WPM (words-per-minute). I digress.

Your concern about programs not working as well with adults as kids? Nah. This isn't like learning a new language, it's more like... Learning the controls in a video game. It's all hand-eye coordination! :D If I'm being honest I didn't learn how to type properly until I was a full-ass adult. I used to chicken-peck at the keys.

Just like speed in any skill (and I know, I know saying that's like a broken record) a good amount of practice goes a long way, and the way some folks train for speed won't work for everyone.

There's this tradeoff between speed and accuracy to consider with different kinds of typing.

You can type very quickly when going off the cuff, for example, because your brain is focused more on the words you're putting out in the moment rather than trying to process source text and translate it to your fingers. However, you're way more likely to make errors if you're not used to the speed yet.

In contrast, typing with a reference tends to go slower because of that extra layer of disconnect and increased focus on accurately duplicating your source material. Hand-eye coordination! :D

As an example: My speed going off the cuff is actually only about 90 WPM nowadays because of some medication side-effects, a bit higher when I'm really in a groove, whereas my speed working off a reference is around 60 WPM. Huge difference right? But both of these are at around 95% accuracy because the change in speed compensates for (what to me is) higher difficulty.

And I don't touch-type. Purists be damned.

(Pardon these explanations, they're not meant to be patronizing or anything, just accessibility for those who might not have known.)

Touch-typing is frequently described as the preferable, "best" way to type fast and efficiently. That's where your fingies are always on the home row (ASDF) and you just kinda clakkaclak without looking down.

Fast? Yeah.

Less errors? Sorta.

Potentially hard as shit to learn when you're not exactly neurotypical? Depending on if your brain is more chaotic or structured, yeaaaahhhhh...

I'm hybrid rather than a touch-typist, which means that while my hands remain in a mostly fixed place on the board (WASD for me, because gamer-brain), I still glance down occasionally to get my bearings as I go. It does lower my reaction time and speed, but touch-typing for me is an ugly error-prone mess because my hands 'slip' and I dysty yu[omh pmr lru pgg start typing one key off.

Depending on which method you use, you'll get there. Don't be afraid to look down and reorient yourself on the keys, and focus on accuracy first. If you get the accuracy down-pat, the speed's gonna follow.

So... Long story short, I guess that's my advice?

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[learnthingsfr]

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[stitchwraith-stingers]

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[thomasbradyscarriet]

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[amaturewoodwork]

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Anyway...working on learning which part of the structure is cardinal for stability and focus on making a frame first before adding the top.

The saw mills and lumberyards or just your average hardware store will cut your material to length.

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[faranae]

Please teach me the ways of visually appealing linart, that literally looks so good! ToT

DISCLAIMER: I HAVE NO EDUCATION ON THIS SUBJECT WHATSOEVER AND HAVE NO IDEA WHAT I'M DOING. ♥ I'm sorry this is so long! OTL

I put a lot of focus on just getting the bare, thin lines down first so I know where everything goes and can fix up any little tangents* as I go. After that, I go over certain spots thickening those lines up to give stuff a bit more clarity.

It's pretty obvious looking at my lined doodles that I really like the "slap a thicker border on it" look, but that's actually the part I do last. First I look for specific places to change the line width and go nuts until I'm happy with it. Here are some tips that you should probably disregard because I have no idea what I'm doing. I'm assuming you're working raster (pixels) rather than vector (math), because vector is a whole other monster.

Don't get crowded. If you need to zoom in to pixel-perfect your lines, you're too close. If you need to zoom in to see the gaps between any of your lines, they're too close. Fine lines are all well and good, but with fine lines comes busy eyestrain if you aren't hyper-aware of leaving enough space between them.

No, really. Zoom out. If you can, try to keep a cloned window open off to the side with your work zoomed out to fit, or just zoom out frequently. It'll help you spot problem areas, such as when lines intersect at a weird angle (see next point) and make eye-drawing dark spots, or when a line is too thin to be seen at all.

*Avoid tangents as you go. Schweizercomics has a post about tangents here. It's focused on panel composition, but very much applies to lines too! Tweaking your lines ever so slightly as you work to minimize the impact of those problem areas is really helpful with making your lines look less cluttered and (IMO) more appealing.

Thick part, thick line (and vice-versa). If something is thin and fine or hit by a lot of light, I leave the lines thin. In contrast I often put thicker lines on the bottoms or thickest/heaviest parts of shapes or where shadows would fall. No hard and fast rule to this one, sometimes it just looks nicer and I have no idea why.

Front and back. When objects pass over others (foreground vs background, arm over face, etc) I usually make the lines a bit thicker where they cross over each other to make the separation more distinct. Usually on the front object, but sometimes if it's a smaller object I'll thicken the back instead. It helps me to differentiate object depth a bit since I have trouble visualizing anything even remotely involving depth or 3D. 

Every detail doesn't need its own set of lines, especially if you're coloring afterwards. Hatching in a shadowed area? Go solid so it's less busy. Markings or vitiligo? Don't be afraid to put light lines down to get your bearings and erase them once you've got everything set up! If something looks busy, try getting rid of the finicky bits or allude to them elsewhere. And remember: The area surrounding a shape shows its form just as much as the outline itself!!

A stupid little thing and an extension of the previous point: Specifically when objects are sitting on a hard surface, I thin out the line a little bit towards the middle of the line to simulate the point of contact (without compromising the line itself by drawing little bumps or squishes).

Oh god, this is getting so long and I'm supposed to be in D&D.

OTL

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[learnthingsfr]

#LearnThings

[clifmims]

We Remember What We Do. #makered

Feel free to download a full-sized version of this poster for use in your school.

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Invent to LearnThe Maker Movement in K-12 Education: A…

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[joyfireblacksmith]

This is a piece I made as a sample for the bronze casting class I just taught. He is beautiful and I love him and I want to fill my house with other small bronze animal friends. First pic is him finished, next is him being broken out of the mold (still hot), third is him with sprues and vents cut off, fourth is him after sandblasting, and the last is finished again.

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