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doriscahill · 4 years

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Walking memories

It’s winter and my daily routine begins to sort out. My language slowly progresses. My room at my host family begins to feel like a home. My daily 5 mile walks to and from works were transitioned beyond my sore feet. I could finally absorb my surroundings. The details, the bread, the potato sandwiches and ladies with daily vegetable stands.

They were always there. But now, I could see them as if my sight was taken. I stumbled on linen and material shops to make my way in. It was at these make shift stores, nestled in older buildings on the main street I haggled for huge soft purple blanket and a traditional pattern throw with fringe. Its there the word for pillow case and pillow where taught. Showing pictures from my Cell phone, saying I need this!

Piece by piece over a few weeks my room filled with these and other objects; small mirror and bright lamp, a curtain to hang on my door to the hallway, a knob to screw on my broken draw. A bit of privacy in a house of 8, making my life somewhat normal.

Americans are less social then Georgian culture in certain ways. We generally, are not inspecting each others comings and goings. At every turn, a question “where are you heading, then when are you coming back?” At least 6 of the 8 asking, the baby only cooed, one after another bopping in an out. Checking in with me. This local behavior embraced my walks too. Metro areas in American you’d think only someone would ask for directions and scurry a way.

Then I discover this coffee gig. Not a gig exactly. Coffee is a round the clock social event. I know I was sent to three months of boot camp style training on this, but finally, I see what what those lessons were about.

My first experience where I encounter a super friendly stranger and it became a coffee event, It was this tiny coffee shop, easy to miss, if not for the sign board on the street walk. Daily, I see the sign, but where is this coffee? I had been seeing these signs, but only thought to stop and stare when it could be a good coffee. Ah yes, there it is right under my nose. A tiny non standard width glass door, maybe 28 inches wide.

Georgia’s door openings are inconsistently size, in fact much of the building code is lax. Wires for electric and internet are shared and tangled in various knots on various poles that criss-cross. Doorways should be slowly opened as stairwells can be removed but “not” the door! Mornings I would find glass on my 2 X6 deck with glass from fallen windows above after a good thunderstorm, that opening was not a door exactly, it was a window you climbed out of.

Yes, back to coffee. I walk through the narrow door. A woman who of course speaks Russian or Armenian breaks out in Armenian first. I live a hour and half from Armenia’s capital, Yerevan. Armenians are the most industrious of business people, they own many of the shops and there is friction over this. I need know to use my Georgian to get my coffee, the term for want and coffee are simple for me now and its understood, but that does not deter conversation.

I learn they sell instant coffee, JACOBs and it is sugar on steroids. Her machine for making it is broken, which on many other visits it was broken, so she boils a pot of water, retrieves a very tiny cup, fills it with the dusty powder; Cost 30 cents or 50 cents. I am sitting in a very tiny chair, more like a stool or child’s chair. For that small transaction, we talk for an hour likely, because a friend is now joining us in this crammed room. I learned much about her on my many visits. She did not own the shop, which is common she worked for the husband or brother. They sold cigarettes too. Tobacco smoking is cheap and fashionable. Women do not smoke openly, but men do on every corner. This money gathering is the same with beauty shops too, a man will come by and take the money, sometimes twice a day.

My coffee exploits continued, the yarn shop, the cake shop, the bread shop. Socializing is part of your goals in Peace Corps, lucky me. I had standard answers by now, and a few silly Georgian canned joked. Like men or husbands are crazy, but I only have one! Church too, but that stone floor is tough on the knees, but after church when I found the Catholic church with pews, I was hauled into a 3 hour coffee at a home with no escape route, a cup of soup boiled for days and cookies. Half hour good, 3 hours with all the neighbors tricky when your stared at and spoken to in a second language.

Occasionally, then more routinely, I stopped at the one of two western style hotels in town. At first for the guaranteed western restrooms. Later would buy a real cappucino or Turkish coffee (traditional, small cup), best compared to espresso taken with nice cold glass of water. Often eat there, as the food was guaranteed safe. The business manager had schooled outside Georgia and was literate in English. We had met on my projects early in service. At first the discussions entailed much of the priorities to develop tourism, not the same as coffee with the ladies shops, he is not a lady. I learned a lot and felt this bond of friendship developing.

Fun to think back on, its felt as though you’re in school again but your not when your first meeting people. I found myself learning more Georgian and for me, it was important to discuss topics with emphasis even if my vocabulary was weak. My new friend was a second tutor, but, a crush or sorts. No, a crush it was.

In learning the word for important, I wanted all to know how it important is was for me to visit places and go all the places. And how I loved nature, we had these values in common as we sipped coffee, now a few times a week. In fact, twice I was offered a ride so I would not have to walk back to my host home. The crush is developing.

At coffee on a day no different day than another, he starts our talk that leads “I will take you and I will call you tonight!” Oh, “sure” and before you know it “here’s my number” One evening shortly after the call comes “the car is broke” we were to visit a start gazing spectacular above the castle” Me, “no problem”, but an hour later as the dusk moved to evening another call came “the car is fixed!” meet “us” at the bottom of the hill.

Days leading up to this, became a bit of a fantasy. He was clearly younger, best guess 42 at the most, but its enjoyable to listen to those younger, bright with dreams. I meet that night at the bottom of the hill by the gas station. Joined him in his 4x4 SUV in the front and saw a chaperone aka guy friend in the back. He never spoke the entire trip.

Later, other instances when I lived alone at my apartment, it was explained. Men were not allowed to come up the stairs alone and knock at your door.

We drive up the dirt road, listening to the story of how this will be the most wonderful tourist spot, but there is no running water, at the top. Well it most certainly would. And we discussed this water needed, me insisting on good restroom and how there is a natural brook not too far. At the top it you could see the immense Castle (thousands of year old border fortress), lit up with lights that shined gold in the distance. Above the starts shone well in the dark sky as the dust settles late at night. I did not want that minute to end.

My now very close friend was supportive when my mom fell ill with her first heart attack. We spoke about family and how that is all that really matters. Family is so important to culture in Georgia. About half way through my service he found a local girl and married and within that year had their first child. I slowed my coffee visits and arranged for others to take me all the places. When I stopped the last time in May 2019 and shared my trip to America would be for awhile, they seemed so sad. And I was too. Not even a hug as my good bye was in the open.

You’re not told or maybe you do not understand how much you will miss people after Peace Corps. I will make it back one day for coffee.

Thanks for listening! doe

#travel #peacecorps #peace corps

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hearts-n-yums · 7 years

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⇒⇒I feel like I should write this post in English since it might be of interest to other possible NYC tourists of any nationality. So, my greek friends, please bear with me and try to read along AND PRACTICE YOUR ENGLISH, DUDES!!⇐⇐

So, I’ve been dying to write this post for a while, and now that our honeymoon in the Big Apple is getting closer I feel like I should relive and share the tastes we experienced last year there, and get ready for more to come!! I’m not including prices because I feel it’s a subjective opinion and always according to budget. Generally, everything we tried was of average price, nothing too fancy or expensive.

No one has really answered to my NYC HONEYMOON – ANY SUGGESTIONS? post for new ideas (sad face), so I’ll do what I know best! For last year I had made an Excel list of restaurants and bakeries according to area, borough, price range, rate, internet access and happy hour! Yes, I am a Capricorn! I found A LOT of food places after Instagram follows and Yelp review readings. We had downloaded it to our phones so, it came very handy. Whenever we felt hungry and according to the area we were in, we checked our list and off we went. I’ll have to revise this list for this trip and add new spots I’ve discovered on the internet (aka Instagram!)

UMAMI Burger (Greenwich Village)

dav

Oh dear! I had never had a healthy turkey burger filled with greens and a light green sauce tasting SO GOOD! We ended up ordering a second one for dessert! Nikos ordered a richer one, with a nice spicy tomato sauce that was amazing. The highest taste of all, though, were the sweet potato fries, glazed with maple syrup and topped with bacon and chives…. I know! Sweet, spicy, savory all in one! And they came with four different dips to try them, but we managed without them. For the second helping, too!!! The place was not very busy due to the extreme cold, so we had no problem finding a table. A lovely waiter, named Patrick, all smiles and manners, made our night so special!

dav

Bill’s Bar & Burger (Meatpacking District)

It’s been a long time to remember the exact choices of burgers we made, I always opt for lighter ones and Nikos for spicy and all meat-y ones. But I remember that they were so juicy and rich in taste that we fell in love. The caramelised onions were great! I will always remember, also, the chilly fries with pork mince. That was the best taste for a really cold and tiring day to end. The waiters were all friendly and the place quite busy but cozy and romantic. Magic!

I think this was bacon jam!!

Shake Shack (Grand Central Station)

Do I really need to recommend this place? It’s the mecca of burgers. Short menu but endless explosions in your mouth. Descent quality and for a fast food chain it really amazes. Juicy, light, simple burgers and those fries!!!!!! The hot dog didn’t really shock me. Next time I’ll definitely try the milkshakes. In the Madison Garden, too. The waiting in line part is so fun because you are given a vibrating beeper for when your order is ready. So funny!

dav

Waiting for the vibration!

Murray’s Bagels

I guess I had many bagel places on my Excel list, but this was the first and only we tried and we were both amazed. It was basically empty (hello freezing cold of February) so the guys there had time to help us pick out a nice combo. I got a stuffed bagel with chicken and bacon and Nikos got a wrap with pastrami and other meats. They both came with a side coleslaw and we devoured them. They were perfect and they kept us going almost all day!

Magnolia Bakery (Grand Central Station)

I tried a Red Velvet Cupcake (my favorite flavor) there but I didn’t like it. Too plain in flavor and really tasteless. I guess it’s all about likings and personal taste but it didn’t satisfy me. The ladies there were very kind and they didn’t let me pay once they found out I had JUST been engaged!!!

Little Cupcake Bakeshop (Nolita)

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Fantastic place! It had been recommended to me by a friend and it was really worth all the praises. Cute, small, cozy with adorable chandeliers and an authentic red-brick wall. Polite staff, amazing flavors, great quality cheesecakes and fun flavor combo ideas for the cakes. Of course I got the Red Velvet Cake and Nikos got a Chocolate Cheesecake. We also got a S’mores Bar which we shared the morning after he proposed! Loved everything! For this bakeshop I’ve written before on my Our Special Day spent in New York (ring included!) post.

Doughnut Plant (Chelsea Hotel)

Honestly, words cannot describe these doughnuts. And that shop. The decoration. And that disco bathroom. Everything was great! We couldn’t choose a doughnut because all the flavors sounded delicious. Finally we ordered the peanut butter and jelly, the black out and the orange blossom one. I know flavor vary according to season and period but some are staples. I also got my first chai tea and loved it. Nikos found the espresso coffee really good and he is a coffee connoisseur. We left with a huge smile! I’ve written again about those doughnuts in my Our Special Day spent in New York (ring included!) post.

dav

Freshly engaged with my first chai tea!

The Chocolate Room (Brooklyn)

Oh the choices were endless. You could sit for a coffee and dessert, you could get anything to go! We chose a few superb chocolates to indulge in at the sunset and hit the road. Little did I know I would finally enjoy those heavenly balls of taste for breakfast having a ring on my finger!!!! We opted for the Rosemary, Lavender, Passion Fruit and other similar unforgettable flavors. They were magnificent in texture and taste! We will visit again, for sure!

Like little galaxies!

Food place in Rockefeller Centre, on the square, don’t remember the name!!

Sadly I don’t recall the name of the place (cold and hunger is a bad combination) but I took a few photos of it. It also served coffee, pastries and juices. Can you recognise it? Also, I do remember the perfect and balanced sandwich I got with baked sweet potato and kale. It was so healthy that warmed my stomach at once. unfortunately, I didn’t get a photo of it! That’s how fast I devoured it!

Sports Bar and Dinner in Brooklyn , I don’t remember the name (Vol.2) !!!

Wait a minute! Before you say anything! There is an explanation! We had walked all around Chinatown, watched the New Year’s Parade, walked along Brooklyn Bridge and couldn’t help but REALLY needing to pee!!! The minute we stepped on Brooklyn, we walked dashing in the first dinner we spotted, never paying attention to the name! We did pay attention to the sweet potato fries, though, and took a few photos of the place! Does anyone recognise it??

Pizza

They say that pizza ANYWHERE in Manhattan is amazing and they are right. We even tried the pizza on Macy’s and we loved it.

Thanks to the great breakfast in the hotel we stayed (Hampton Inn, Manhattan near United Nations) we didn’t have any more room left for any other restaurants or bakeries!! For a few drinks, yes, but nothing worth mentioning. However, WE WILL BE BACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Feel free to ask anything you like!

Cheers!!

♥♥

New York Food Places I’ve tried (and loved!) ⇒⇒I feel like I should write this post in English since it might be of interest to other possible NYC tourists of any nationality.

#bagels #burgers #food places #fries #manhattan #new york #restaurants #review

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