La Belle Portia, 1886
Alexandre Cabanel
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A bridal or reception gown
c. 1907-1909
“ivory silk charmeuse, the skirt and bodice applied with chemical lace, taffeta ruffles, gold lamé rosettes and bouquets of roses formed from coiled pink and organza ribbon, others of soft pink chiffon studded with rhinestones, with silver embroidered stems and satin ribbon bows, shirred and gathered silk to the waist”
Kerry Taylor Auctions
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Undergarment ensemble
c.1900
FIDM Museum
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solid perfume necklace in the shape of a mussel from estée lauder, 1974
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FWIW, "mauve" was one of the coal-tar dyes developed in the mid-19th century that made eye-wateringly bright clothing fashionable for a few decades.
It was an eye-popping magenta purple
HOWEVER, like most aniline dyes, it faded badly, to a washed-out blue-grey ...
...which was the color ignorant youngsters in the 1920s associated with “mauve”.
(This dress is labeled "mauve" as it is the color the above becomes after fading).
They colored their vision of the past with washed-out pastels that were NOTHING like the eye-popping electric shades the mid-Victorians loved. This 1926 fashion history book by Paul di Giafferi paints a hugely distorted, I would say dishonest picture of the past.
Ever since then this faded bluish lavender and not the original electric eye-watering hot pink-purple is the color associated with the word “mauve”.
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I was about to be irritated at a shitty "kids' education" website on 1770s clothing but then I learned that there's a staymaker buried at King's Chapel and now I'm just delighted to know the gravesite of a clothing worker from that era and I want to take him flowers
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@lingerie_addict has a really cool thread on ancient fashion over on twitter.
Those source links are here
cambridge.org
Youtube
ucl.ac.uk
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Two-piece silk evening gown
c. 1865-1869
pink and white silk brocade evening gown made in Paris, France in the 1860s
Minnesota Historical Society
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Dress, American, c. 1864-1865
The MET Museum
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