#nadeshico rin

[tanuki-kimono]

Edo period types of hakama pants, fantastic chart by Edo-lover Nadeshico Rin. You can see here from left to right, top to bottom:

Fundomi hakama 踏込袴 - pants with a narrow bottom hem, a type of nobakama (see below)

Tattsuke hakama 裁付袴 - pants tight below the knee, sometimes refered as "ninja pants" (= Iga hakama). Those were worn by many, from samurai to servants and craftmen.

Umanoribakama 馬乗袴 - lit. "riding pants", wide hakama with high gusset split legs for confortable horse riding.

Nagabakama 長袴 - formal trailing hakama worn by samurai from late Muromachi era.

Andonbakama - skirt-like hakama worn by Meiji period female teachers and students (hence why it's sometimes called onna bakama). A boy version appeared after mid-Meiji.

Yamabakama 山袴 - daily-life work pants with narrow legs and sometimes a gathered bottom hem. Name greatly varies depending on areas and time. A direct descendant of this style are women's monpe もんぺ.

Nobakama 野袴 - shorter hakama with black velvet hem, worn by travelling samurai. It was also part of firefighters' gear.

Hirabakama 平袴 - the "classic" ankle lenght men hakama pants, with a low gusset which means it looks nice when sitting (tailoring is hence different from the umanori, see above). Also called hanbakama 半袴, those were longer than the ancient kobakama 小袴 and shorter than formal trailing nagabakama (see above).

#japan #historical fashion #fashion history #ressources #hakama #hakama pants #references #edo period #edo era #nadeshico rin #Fundomi hakama #Tattsuke hakama #Iga hakama #Umanoribakama #Nagabakama #Andonbakama #Yamabakama #monpe #Nobakama #Hirabakama #hanbakama #kobakama #japanese pants #着物 #袴

[minowly]

Nadeshico Rin

#Nadeshico Rin #art #Japan #japanese art

[nettculture]

Amazing traditional artworks from Japanese painter & illustrator Rin Nadeshico at http://nadeshicorin.com/ "The Bride and the Geisha", Acryl Gouache on paper, 257 x 364 mm. 2017, © Nadeshico

#Rin Nadeshico #Nadeshicorin #art #Japanese Art #artist #painter #illustrator

[tart-pastry]

A Japanese maiden or otome. Painting by Rin Nadeshico.

#Art #Rin Nadeshico

[pepsimangb]

「富嶽乙女楽団」-Girls band-

Nadeshico Rin, July 2007.

#Nadeshico Rin #撫子凛 #Art #Japan #Hokusai #Mt. Fuji #Fujisan

[tanuki-kimono]

Samurai's ranks and dress code in Late Edo period

AMAZING reference chart put together by Nadeshico Rin, showing the different attires worn by the men of the buke class in and about Edo Castle. OP stresses the chart is by no means exhaustive - but it helps picturing things SO MUCH!

For easier reading, I have adapted the chart with english translation. Rin has also created illustrations detailing each attire, I'll translate those in coming days under the tag "samurai kimono".

You'll find the transliteration below cut:

The court ranks - Mibun 身分 or Ikai (位階)

Find more about the exact titles here.

一位 Ichii (First court rank)

三位 Sanmi (Third court rank) and 四位 Shii (Fourth court rank)

Goi 五位 (Fifth court rank​)

Omemie ijô 御目見 以上, the "upper" vassals allowed to request audience with the shogun

Omemie ika 御目見 以下, the "lesser" vassals (not allowed to request audience with the shogun)

Rin does not mention the second court rank (二位 Nii) so I am not sure where this one is supposed to go ^^;

The clan/families - Kamei 家名

徳川将軍家 Tokugawa shôgunke (Tokugawa Shogun clan)

尾張徳川家 Owari Tokugawake (Owari Tokugawa clan), 紀伊徳川家 Kii Tokugawake (Kii Tokugawa clan), 水戸徳川家 Mito Tokugawake (Mito Tokugawa clan), 徳川御三卿 Tokugawa gosankyo (Secondary Tokugawa branch clans: Tayasu, Shimizu, and Hitotsubashi)

三奉行 Sanbugyô, & 下三奉行 Shimosan bugyô (magistrates, governors)

旗本 Hatamoto (general term for upper-rank vassals of the Tokugawa)

御家人 Gokenin (general term for lower-rank vassals of the Tokugawa)

Outfits TPO (Time, Place, Occasion)

第一礼服 (大礼 など) Daiichi raifuku (tairei nado) - Most formal outfit worn during State/important ceremonies, etc.

礼服 (正月など) Raifuku (Shogatsu nado) - Formal outfit, worn for events like New Year, etc.

通常礼服 (節句など) Tsûjô raifuku (sekku nado) - Regular formal outfit, worn during seasonal festivals, etc.

平服 Heifuku - Everyday outfit

Type of outfits

Rin has released separated charts detailing the different costumes. You'll find them translated here in coming days.

束帯 Sokutai - old ceremonial court dress, first worn by Heian nobility. Attire includes the 笏 shaku (flat ritual sceptre), and 冠 kanmuri hat.

衣冠 Ikan - old ceremonial court dress, much more simpler than sokutai

布衣 Hoi - "plain" 狩衣 kariginu (which were informal clothes worn by the nobility from the Heian period and onwards)

素襖 Suô - ceremonial dress of the lower-ranked samurai

直垂 Hitatare - ceremonial court robe​

狩衣 Kariginu - patterned kariginu (informal clothes worn by the nobility from the Heian period and onwards)

大紋 Daimon - 直垂 hitatare with large family crests

直衣 Nôshi - everyday robes which were first worn by males of the imperial family during Heian era, and then spread among nobility, etc.

長上下 Naga Kamishimo - outfit pairing a sleeveless ceremonial robe called 肩衣 kataginu, with trailing pants called 長袴 nagabakama

半上下 Han Kamishimo - outfit pairing a sleeveless ceremonial robe called 肩衣 kataginu, with ankle lenght pants called 半袴 hanbakama

#japan #history #fashion history #samurai kimono #samurai #nadeshico rin #edo era #edo period #shogun #tokugawa #ressources #references #Sokutai #Ikan #Hoi #Suo #Hitatare #Kariginu #Daimon #Noshi #Kamishimo #nagakamishimo #hankamishimo #kataginu #hakama #nagabakama #hanbakama #court rank #buke #warrior class

[leivos-blog]

by  Nadeshico Rin

#Nadeshico Rin #Daily Inspiration #Illustration #japanese #skull

[tanuki-kimono]

Edo period women obi knots, fantastic reference chart by Edo lover Nadeshico Rin.

You can see here several obi musubi favored by city women, of all class and status. Novelty knots were a fashion statement, often lauched by star onnagata kabuki actors, and spread by iki fashionistas such as geisha.

For top to bottom, left to right, you can see here:

Chidori musubi (plover knot) ちどり結び

Shôryû musubi (little dragon knot) 小龍結び

Kichiya musubi (Kichiya knot) 吉弥 結び - named after onnagata actor Uemura Kichiya I in Genroku period, who single handedly launched a new type of knots and obi fashion

Koman musubi (Koman knot) 小万結び - named after a kabuki character in play Yakko no Koman

Nagoya obi (Nagoya belt) 名古屋帯 - Azuchi Momoyama/Early Edo era silk kumihimo tied in butterfly knot

Yanoji musubi (arrow knot) 矢の字結び - created by onnagata actor Segawa Kikunojo II. Also found under the name tateya musubi 立て矢結び (standing arrow knot)

Yoshio musubi (Yoshio knot) よしお結び

Mizuki musubi (Mizuki knot) 水木結び - onnagata actor Mizuki Tatsunosuke is said to have first worn this variation of the Kichiya musubi

Rokô musubi (rôkô knot) 路孝結び - created by onnagata actor Segawa Kikunojo II

Karuta musubi (card knot) カルタ結び - created in early Edo period, looking like 3 playing cards side by side

Hitotsu musubi (single knot) 一つ結び - during Edo, was also called darari musubi だらり結び. Note that it differs from is nowadays called darari obi (worn by maiko)

Tate musubi (standing knot) 立て結び - see yanoji/tateya musubi for variations

Bunko kuzushi (unbalanced knot) 文庫くずし

Heijûrô musubi (Heijûrô knot) 平十郎結び - created by actor Murayama Heijûrô III

Sageshita musubi (falling knot) さげ下結び

(by request of @fireflybettle, hope this will help you ^^)

#japan #fashion #fashion history #references #ressources #nadeshico rin #edo period #edo era #obi #musubi #obi knot #kitsuke #chidori musubi #Shôryû musubi #Kichiya musubi #Koman musubi #historical Nagoya obi #Yanoji musubi #tateya musubi #Yoshio musubi #Mizuki musubi #Rokô musubi #Karuta musubi #Hitotsu musubi #Tate musubi #Bunko kuzushi #Heijûrô musubi #Sageshita musubi #darari obi