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Self-Care: the Most Neglected Item on our Checklists

How does fashion, beauty, skincare, hair, and fitness routines help your mental health, confidence, and more?

Image by Kat Jayne from Pexels

A glance at a notebook, laptop, or smartphone often reveals the daily checklists that are formulated to organize our lives. Panic can strike at any moment causing one to erase or cross out items that are deemed “less important,” as one observes time accelerating by. In this process, self-care routines, including fashion, skincare, beauty, haircare, and fitness rituals, are usually the first things to go. According to the People magazine article, “2020 Made Americans Even More Excited to Practice Self-Care, According to a Survey,”self-care routines made up “only…65 minutes per week” of “the average person (‘s)” life, which amounts to less than one percent of a seven-day period. These activities can play valuable roles in our health, self-esteem, mindset, and productivity level. These benefits may explain why Amanda Pauley, noted in Professional Beauty magazine, during January 2021, that the term ‘“self-care routine”’ was a significantly researched item on Google, resulting in a “250%” uptick “since the first lockdown in March 2020.”

Self-care is one aspect of our lifestyles that is often taken for granted and ignored in favor of accomplishing more goals in a day. Yet, ironically, regimens that relate to self-care can help us build our confidence, relieve anxiety and depression, improve our mood and quality of life, including productivity. For example, fitness, one subcategory of self-care has been shown to improve mental health, according to The Lancet article, “Exercise Linked to Improved Mental Health, but More may not Always be Better.” The Lancet states that “A study” which consisted of “1.2 million” Americans revealed exercisers as “having 1.5 fewer days of poor mental health a month,” versus non-exercisers.

The mental health benefits of skincare, another self-care activity, were explored in the article “It’s Official. Science Says Having a 3-Step Skincare Routine Can Decrease Stress,” by Amy Lawrenson. According to Lawrenson, a study on patients who battle acne, conducted by Kathy Fields and Katie Rodan MD, and printed in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, found that there was a decrease in “cortisol levels,” which relates to stress, amongst the participants who took on “a three-step skincare regimen twice a day,” during a two-month period. With these findings in mind, maybe we need to stop cutting these regimens from our daily checklists and prioritize them, especially during the trying circumstances of the current pandemic.

Jewellee Williams, an esthetician, and owner of Crown Jewel Esthetics wearing her company’s logo t-shirt at the time addresses these common circumstances stating, “Everywhere else in the world values self-care,” and proceeds to note that in the United States full work schedules are placed as a higher priority instead. Jewellee goes on to share an unfortunate truth, which is that “people” in this country may be called “selfish” if they take time out for these rituals. Her astute observation could explain the small percentage of the time, less than one percent, as previously noted, that “…the average person…,” spent on such activities, detailed by People. On a positive note, however, People also mentions that there is now increased awareness of the importance of self-care, and its positive implications, since the pandemic.

“Everywhere else in the world values self-care.”

 - Jewellee Williams

Crown Jewel Esthetics, owned by Jewellee Williams, offers a variety of services including corrective skincare, lash extensions, nails, waxing, fillers, and botox. (Images Courtesy of Jewellee Williams)

Self-care-related activities are beneficial to one’s emotions and mental health. Ettore Mastroddi, a silver-grey-haired master stylist at the Rittenhouse Spa and Salon in Philadelphia, notes that the absence of such services, during the pandemic, impacts clients on an emotional level. As a result, his home salon is the means by which he was and still is, able to help lift their spirits and offer them these services, outside of his main workplace. Kree Willyumz, one of the owners of The Journi, personal styling, and concierge service, notes that he and his business partner and brother Keith Reed Jr., see the renewal of “hope” within their clients daily as they resume self-care-related activities.

The hair looks above are examples of Mastroddi’s work. (Images Courtesy of Ettore Mastroddi)

“There is a rule if they come to my salon and I treat their hair, I say ‘Don’t disappoint me and go home.” - Ettoire Mastroddi

Regarding specific scenarios in which self-care can have an emotional impact, Hope Dolchin Nagy, a certified professional in the field of personal training and owner of MotivateHopeStrength.com, relays her experience stating “On a personal level, fitness (one form of self-care) became so important to me on so many levels. I have used the gym as an escape when life has thrown some mad times at me. Too many...a bad marriage, bad divorce, a surprise heart defect, and open-heart surgery, and most recently breast cancer.” Nagy notes that these activities have assisted in her ability to bounce back from setbacks and mentally navigate through her breast cancer diagnosis. 

“On a personal level, fitness (one form of self-care) became so important to me on so many levels. I have used the gym as an escape when life has thrown some mad times at me.”     - Hope Dolchin Nagy

Spinning classes are one of MotivateHopeStrength.com's workout offerings. (Images Courtesy of Hope Dolchin Nagy)

Routines of this nature also can impact one’s confidence level. While self-care services have obvious aesthetic benefits, their impact goes beyond the surface. A client named Kate* explains, in regard to this topic, “If I like the way I look it helps the way I feel.” Another client named Patrice DeMoss notes that she feels “Confident, self-assured, (and) ready to start the day” after receiving self-care services. People notes that within a surveyed group, “64%” felt more confident after they began to participate in “…self-care…” regimens.

Patrice Williams, a makeup artist, licensed esthetician, and owner of MU8, was drawn into the beauty and skincare industries because of their ability to uplift others. Regarding the mental health, confidence level, and other lifestyle benefits of self-care, Patrice Williams remarks, “I think that at times, you have to, especially if you haven’t felt good in a while, sometimes you have to look good to feel good. All of those things, fashion, skincare, and fitness, are all very visual or aesthetic things to participate in, but they have such a huge return internally.” Overall, she expressed that when one feels that they look good, often this can enhance their confidence in other situations, such as a job interview, and help them to exude it to others around them.

“I think that at times, you have to, especially if you haven’t felt good in a while, sometimes you have to look good to feel good. All of those things, fashion, skincare, and fitness, are all very visual or aesthetic things to participate in, but they have such a huge return internally.”                          - Patrice Williams

MU8 by Patrice Williams offers services including makeup, lash lift and tint, brow tinting, lash extensions, facials, and waxing. (Images Courtesy of Patrice Williams)

As one’s confidence level raises, during the regimens of self-care, this can have broader implications attached. Patrice Williams notes that activities such as fitness can demonstrate to you that you can overcome obstacles, first on a workout level, but then within other aspects of your life, as a result. Another client named Cynthia* states, “Practicing solid fitness and nutrition habits allow me to feel strong, healthy, and focused.” Cynthia notes that, overall, “Carving out time for self-care makes” her “feel productive.”

Kate’s personal trainer and “long-time friend” Nagy, encourages her to get “out of” her “comfort zone” and realize “the importance of hard work, basic nutrition, and strength.” Reed, who is wearing a powder blue suit that has three-quarter length sleeves, that are cuffed back to reveal a grid print, paired with a palm leaf-like printed blue and button-down, asymmetrical black glasses, and a brown silk pocket square, expressed a similar sentiment, although in this case about style. Reed states, “I love fashion because it makes me understand, elevate, and evolve into the person that I know that I am.” 

“I love fashion because it makes me understand, elevate, and evolve into the person that I know that I am.” 

 - Keith Reed Jr. 

The Journi offers concierge, tailoring, personal styling services, and more. (Top Image: Keith Reed Jr. (left) and Kree Willyumz (right). (Images Courtesy of Keith Reed Jr. and Kree Willyumz)

However, in order to experience these benefits, one needs to make these activities count. Mastroddi notes, “There is a rule if they come to my salon and I treat their hair, I say ‘Don’t disappoint me and go home.’” He notes that he encourages them to go somewhere and enjoy the benefits of this self-care, in this case, haircare, routine, and states that he tells them “‘Flaunt your look today because you look amazing. I don’t want to hear you went home and took care of the kids. Take 30 minutes for yourself.’” He then adds, “You need those little moments for yourself.” Jewellee Williams and Mastroddi try to encourage their clients to take the moment away from their normal stresses and enjoy the experience of the services.

(Image by Daria Shevtsova from Pexels)

It’s a fact, there is no substitute for mental health services. Self-care activities, however, can benefit one’s life by enhancing one’s quality of life, confidence, mood, outlook, and propel one to conquer other tasks, as a result. These routines go beyond aesthetics and allow people to decrease their anxiety and feel capable of tackling tasks and challenges in a more confident position. While the self-care professionals all acknowledge that their services are brief, they all hope that their clients experience long-term positive effects, in conjunction with the short-term benefits.

The phrase above is one that Nagy tells and reminds her clients of, according to her client and friend Kate. (Image by Madison Inouye from Pexels). 

Work Cited:

The Lancet Editors. “Exercise Linked to Improved Mental Health, but More may not Always be Better.” The Lancet, 8 Aug. 2018, ScienceDaily, ScienceDaily, https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2018/08/180808193656.htm, Accessed 4 May 2021.

Crown Jewel Esthetics Editors. “Our Mission: Self-Care with Results.” Crown Jewel Esthetics, Crown Jewel Esthetics, 2021, https://www.crownjewelesthetics.com, Accessed 9 May 2021.

Lawrenson, Amy. “It’s Official. Science Says Having a 3-Step Skincare Routine Can Decrease Stress.” Byrdie, Dotdash, 22 June 2020, https://www.byrdie.com/skincare-stress-5069384, Accessed 9 May 2021.

MU8 Editors. “MU8 by Patrice Williams.” MU8, Squarespace, n.d.,https://www.mu8bypatrice.com, 9 May 2021.

Pauley, Amanda. “Online Searches for ‘“self-care”’ soar 250% During Covid-19.” Professional Beauty, Professional Beauty Group, 11 Jan. 2021, https://professionalbeauty.co.uk/site/newsdetails/searches-for-self-care-soar-during-covid-19, Accessed 6 June 2021.

People Staff. “2020 Made Americans Even More Excited to Practice Self-Care, According to a Survey.” People, Meredith, https://people.com/style/2020-made-americans-even-more-excited-to-practice-self-care-according-to-a-survey/, Accessed 6 June 2021.

#selfcare #philadelphia #fashion #styling #beauty #haircare #skincare #fitness #nutrition

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Reimagining Philadelphia

Photo by Trevor Adams from Pexels

It was a Friday afternoon, in March, when I spoke, over Zoom, with Erin Winward, a recent BFA Fashion and Apparel Design graduate from Moore College of Art and Design. A framed fashion sketch on her wall, which was her own, depicts women wearing bustiers, flared pants, a transparent poet-sleeved blouse, and slip dress and trench in tones of red and black, à la the 90s. Her portfolio looks professional and shows aesthetics that range from Victorian, rock-and-roll edgy and hippy silhouettes. While her taste level also seems suited for success, she doesn’t currently have a position in the industry. Struggles and obstacles of this nature are common amongst Philadelphia’s fashion professionals, but why is this the case?

Image Courtesy of and Illustration by Erin Winward

Despite possessing commonalities with New York, including a bustling art scene and a plethora of retailers and niche businesses, Philadelphia has yet to fully invest in the fashion arena. Philadelphia doesn’t lack talent and once had a stronger fashion presence, but in its current state, a few additional steps will need to be taken for this field to thrive. The current pandemic has ushered in a focus on digital presentations. With the industry less bound to traditional fashion capitals, now is the time for Philadelphia to prove that it can be a contender. With a little finessing, combined with the passion and efforts of hard-working local professionals, this city can reach this potential.

The illustration and image (above) are of Erin Winward’s junior year collection (Illustration by and Courtesy of Erin Winward; Photograph by Victoria Gallagher, and Courtesy of Erin Winward)

Philadelphia was once a production location, between the 19th and 20th centuries, and also possessed professionals in the tailoring, hat, and garment construction industries, as detailed within Google's exhibition slideshow “Philadelphia In Style.” In the late 1800s, John Wanamaker and his business were significant to this city’s role in fashion, as observed and detailed in the PBS.org article, “Who Made America? – John Wanamaker.” As an early purveyor tied to the establishment of “department stores,” he created Wanamaker’s, which sold a variety of goods, intended to address the needs of high-end clientele, as detailed by PBS. Unfortunately, as discussed in the article “Fashion,” by Clare Sauro, changes occurred in production and “trade,” causing Philadelphia to lose its footing within the industry.

However, an interest in fashion has resurged in this area, due to a few developments. Philly Fashion Week was established in 2006, according to Elizabeth Wellington’s article “Philly Fashion Week Starts Soon in the New Fashion District. Here’s what you need to know.,” and now has a designated fashion venue. At this location, the Fashion District Philadelphia, the community can shop major and local brands and attend fashion week. There are also educational opportunities at institutions including Drexel, The Made Institute, and Thomas Jefferson University that have fashion programs. There are also organizations such as Fashion Group International and Philadelphia Fashion Incubator connecting professionals to important resources, networking, and information.

The images that are seen here, and above, are of Philadelphia’s Fashion District, which serves as a shopping and event venue. Philly Fashion Week shows take place here. Under this roof, shoppers will find a combination of established brands, local companies, and vendors. (Photograph by and Courtesy of Anthony Furber)

Gregory Jerome, an image consultant, embodies the fervor that Philadelphia’s professionals have regarding the city’s potential to be a fashion industry titan. Jerome has a vibe about him that exudes experience, and his look suggests professionalism, but without being too business formal. While we were speaking, he was sporting a Ralph Lauren tan cotton safari jacket, paired with a rust-colored sweater. When discussing the challenges that Philadelphia’s fashion industry faces, Jerome expressed that many in his community “fail to value their appearance, their personal brand, and even sometimes their company brand.” He then adds, “It is a challenge to persuade people to understand that their brand and image are highly important to personal and professional success.” However, Jerome admits that financial constraints also factor into whether or not people participate in this effort or are able to seek styling services.

“I just believe Philadelphia needs to just try to reidentify themselves, and how does that look? How do you represent this city? What is this city known for? ... Can you transform it?”- Gregory Jerome

The three images above are examples of Gregory Jerome's styling work              ( Images are Courtesy of Gregory Jerome).

Elisha Carter, the designer of Her Fine Basics shapewear, a collection consisting of neutral colored leggings, undergarments, and leotards, faces another set of challenges within the industry. Carter feels that Philadelphia is a difficult market to break into due to its expensive retail spaces, and the hesitance that local retailers have when it comes to taking a chance on selling products from lesser-known brands. She also adds that local publications are not highlighting local companies enough and tend to instead focus on big brands.

The images above show products by HerFineBasics                                  (Images Courtesy of Elisha Carter).

Elissa Bloom, the executive director of the Philadelphia Fashion Incubator, whose resume includes experience in product design, and an accessory line of products such as coin purses adorned with whimsical human depictions, addresses similar concerns regarding the industry. The organization she works for trains designers for a year and helps provide them with mentorship, business strategies, and retail opportunities. According to Bloom, when building a business in this area, fashion designers face challenges that relate to the need for continuous “access to grants, funding, and selling opportunities.”

(Photograph by and Courtesy of Anthony Furber)

Despite these challenges, there are some positive aspects that Philadelphia has to offer. Regarding Philadelphia’s assets, Carter states, “I love how inclusive they [Philadelphia’s designers] are; every race, every size, males, females, transgenders, and that’s something we haven’t seen in a lot of New York Fashion Week shows. They could learn a little something from Philly and what they’re doing.” As for another strength of Philadelphia, Bloom and Jerome both feel that there is an established community of fashion professionals already present within this area. Bloom adds that the Philadelphia Fashion and Garment Industry Task Force, to which she is “a founding member,” also is working to address industrial sustainability and help designers find manufacturers.

“For Philly fashion week, what I think is unique about it is are the designers...I love how inclusive they are...every race, every size, males, females, transgenders... and that’s something we haven’t seen in a lot of New York Fashion Week shows...They could learn a little some- thing from Philly and what they’re doing.” - Elisha Carter

Where does Philly go from here? Jerome suggests that the fashion industry could benefit from emphasizing the significance of the industry and establishing a local aesthetic identity, as other fashion destinations such as New York have done. He states, “I just believe Philadelphia needs to... try to re-identify” itself, “ how does that look? How do you represent this city? What is this city known for? Can you transform it?” While Jerome addresses Philadelphia’s stylistic identity, Winward expressed that the city needs more networking opportunities, to expand its fashion district, and make better use of technology.

(Photo by Trevor Adams from Pexels)

While there is room for improvement, with additional resources and affordable retail spaces needed, Philadelphia has the ability to become a bigger fashion influence, given the recent industrial innovations. These changes can also address the city’s flaws in its talent promotion. As the business focuses more on digital presentations, due to the Covid19 circumstances, there is a chance for areas beyond the fashion capitals to establish their presence in this market. Philadelphia has numerous universities that offer artistic programs. Individuals with a background in areas such as graphic design, photography, and videography could collaborate with local fashion professionals to create innovative presentations for promotional purposes. With the assistance of individuals that have experience in social media, these efforts could bring national-level attention to Philadelphia’s fashion industry.

“I think they have a lot for fashion...I think you just kind of have to find it. It’s more hidden than say, New York.” - Erin Winward

Winward explains, “I think they have a lot for fashion. I think you just kind of have to find it. It’s more hidden than say, New York.” Even though she is still looking for employment within the industry, having previously held merchandising and fashion retail positions, she acknowledges that it is possible to establish a career in fashion here. The progressions made thus far, including the city’s developing fashion district, programs for nurturing talent, and the Philadelphia Fashion and Garment Industry Task Force, demonstrate that this city is on the right path.

Works Cited:

Carter, Elisha. HerFineBasics. Squarespace, n.d., HerFineBasic.com, Accessed 20 Mar. 2021.

Google Arts & Culture Editors. “Philadelphia in Style.” Google Arts & Culture, Google, 2016,https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/philadelphia-in-style-the-robert-and-penny-fox- historic-costume-collection-at-drexel-university/RgLytiVLvSYgKw?hl=en, Accessed 20 Mar. 2021.

PBS.org Editors. “Who Made America? – John Wanamaker.” They Made America, PBS, n.d.,https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/theymadeamerica/whomade/wanamaker_hi.html, Accessed 20 Mar. 2021.

Sauro, Clare. “Fashion.” Rutgers University, 2017, The Encyclopedia of Greater Philadelphia, WordPress, https://philadelphiaencyclopedia.org/archive/fashion/, Accessed 21 Mar. 2021.

Wellington, Elizabeth. “Philly Fashion Week Starts soon in the new Fashion District. Here’s what you need to know.” The Philadelphia Inquirer, The Philadelphia Inquirer, 18 Sept. 2019, https://www.inquirer.com/things-to-do/philly-fashion-week-2019-events-kevin-parker-kerry-scot t-20190918.html, Accessed 22 Mar. 2021.

#phillyfashion #philadelphiafashion #Phillyfashionweek #gregoryjerome #herfinebasics #philadelphiafashionincubator #elissabloom #elishacarter #erinwinward #fashiondistrictphiladelphia

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A PASSION FOR HISTORIC FASHIONS: ANGELIQUE NOIRE

Angelique Noire: A Fashion Model who has Helped Evolutionize Pinup Imagery

In this week’s post, we are continuing our series that discusses historical fashion costumers, sewers, and enthusiasts. The subject of this week’s post is Angelique Noire, a model who has helped to contemporize pin-up girl imagery, as established by Noire at AngeliqueNoire.com. We spoke to Noire about her experiences, insights, and costume preferences. This week, we are once again getting a view inside historic fashion but through the context of present times.  

To begin, Angelique Noire is actually the name of her “..persona...”, according to AngeliqueNoire.com. Prior to establishing this identity, Angelique built up a career that consisted of over a decade’s worth of experience in the fashion industry, according to AngeliqueNoire.com. She modeled for companies such as Bloomingdale’s, Betsey Johnson, Ralph Lauren, Badgley Mischka, Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, and more, as detailed within the same work. Her resume includes modeling for print media and fashion runways, as well as appearances on television, in music videos, commercials, and more, as detailed at AngeliqueNoire.com.

Image Courtesy of Angelique Noire (Instagram: @the_angelique_noire)

Photographer: Guillaume Bo (Her Husband)

Presently, her focus is on her work as “Angelique Noire,” which according to the “My Work” section of AngeliqueNoire.com, is a product of “Her combined passion for the Old Hollywood Glamour styles and observations of extreme under-representation of women of color in the media during the 1920s and 1950s…”. Her “Angelique Noire” identity is the focus of her Instagram. The page consists of her modeling pin-up style looks and fashions that bring to mind eras that she says she gravitates towards, as detailed within our interview, which range from “..the 1930s to the 1950s.” 

For example, Angelique wears dresses in her Instagram posts that feature what Lydia Edwards describes as “...kick-flare panels…” in the work How to Read a Dress: A Guide to Changing Fashion from the 16th to the 20th Century (154-155). This construction detail can be observed in designs from the 1930s, as illustrated and exemplified within the same work (Edwards 154-155). Angelique’s “... peplum...” garments demonstrate the influence of “...The 1940s..., “ as gathered by information detailed by Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farman in the book The Dynamics of Fashion (12). Her looks frequently utilize tapered waists and voluminous skirts al la Christian Dior’s “‘...Corolle…’” portion, of the collection that would be infamously known as the “‘New Look,’” from 1947, as observed and detailed by Adélia Sabatini in the Dior Catwalk, and also noted by Angelique Noire in an Instagram post on February 1st, 2018 (24-27). Other looks feature more constrained and figure emphasizing skirts, described by Sara B. Marcketti and Phyllis G. Tortora, in Survey of Historic Costume, as “...pencil-slim skirts…” that according to the same source were also featured in the infamous ‘“New Look”’ debut (519). Some of her ensembles also possess “...pointed collars…," which, according to The Dynamics of Fashion, was a prominent feature of Jacques Fath's designs from “...The 1950s…” (15).

In addition to her Instagram account, which features images that could serve as inspiration for any fashion enthusiast’s Pinterest board, she also has a “How To” section on her website. One section for hair tutorials features videos embedded from her YouTube account that focus on how to create historic hairstyles with the innate tendencies of one’s hair, which Angelique states were non-existent “When…” she “...began…” her “...journey to creating 1940s/1950s hairstyles…”.  Additionally, she also has sections devoted to providing tips for achieving “Vintage Inspired…” fashion and beauty looks.

“Easy To Do Hairstyle Inspired by Pinup Girls”

Source: Angelique Noire YouTube Channel

Image Courtesy of Angelique Noire (Instagram: @the_angelique_noire)

Angelique's participation in and contributions to the subject of pinup dressing, including her pioneering "...Natural Hair..." vintage hair-styling tutorials on AngeliqueNoire.com have contributed to a more inclusive view of historic costuming. Additionally, Angelique also demonstrates how one can create and explore a niche in any given market. Overall, Angelique has contributed to enhancing the relevance of historic fashions in present-day pursuits.

Q&A: Costume Designer Preferences, Insights, and Experiences:

Trendy, Classic, & Vintage: How and when did you become interested in costuming and fashion history?

Angelique Noire: Probably around 11 or 12 years old.

TCV: What is your favorite fashion era, and why?

AN: I adore the style from the 1930s to the 1950s.

TCV: Who is your favorite figure(s) in fashion history, and why?

AN: I have two favorites that inspire my choices...Grace Kelly and Lauren Bacall. They look at ease in their classic, feminine choices.

TCV: How long does it typically take for you to design, style, and/or sew a historical look?

AN: If I have items in my closet to accomplish a look I want to do, it just takes me about 15 minutes to put it together...a little more if I have to iron.

TCV: If you follow current fashions, what historical influences have you seen returning?

AN: I often see the 1950s style repeated.

TCV: If you could bring back one historical fashion, accessory item or trend, what would it be, and why?

AN: Carved Lucite Purses!!!! I have a pretty decent collection of Lucite purses but wish I had more in colors like pink, pastel green, pastel blue, and more.  (See images of Noire’s collection provided below).

TCV: Where do you find your materials and/or garments to create your looks?

AN: I am approached by brands pretty often, so we work out terms for working together. As far as my Lucite purses, I often find them online.

Close-up of the handbag seen in the previous image.

Images Courtesy of Angelique Noire (Instagram: @the_angelique_noire)

---

Works Cited:

“Easy To Do Hairstyle Inspired by Pinup Girls.” YouTube, uploaded by Angelique Noire, 4 Apr. 2012, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=osF0JUxbb0c, Accessed 20 Aug. 2020.

Edwards, Lydia. How to Read a Dress: A Guide to Changing Fashion from the 16th to the 20th Century. Reprint ed., London and New York, Bloomsbury Academic, 2018.

Noire, Angelique. “How To - Achieve the Pinup Look from Head to Toe” Angelique Noire, n.d., http://angeliquenoire.com/how-to/ , Accessed 12 Aug. 2020.

Noire, Angelique. “How To - Pinup Hairstyles for Natural Hair.” Angelique Noire, n.d., http://angeliquenoire.com/hair-tutorials/, Accessed 12 Aug. 2020.

Noire, Angelique. “My Work: About Angelique Noire aka The Black Pinup.” Angelique Noire, n.d., http://angeliquenoire.com/my-work/, Accessed 12 Aug. 2020.

Noire, Angelique. “Historic Costume Interview.” Received by Brittany Kilpatrick, 24 June 2020, Email Interview.

Noire, Angelique. “The_angelique_noire.” Instagram, n.d., https://www.instagram.com/the_angelique_noire/, Accessed 12 Aug. 2020.

Noire, Angelique. “How To - Vintage Inspired Styling.” Angelique Noire, n.d., http://angeliquenoire.com/vintage-styling/, Accessed 12 Aug. 2020.

Noire, Angelique. (@the-angelique-noire). “January went by fast!...” Instagram, 1 February 2018, https://www.instagram.com/p/BeqIar3H8su/?igshid=1jdrc6775ee5u. 

Stone, Elaine, and Sheryl A. Farnan. The Dynamics of Fashion. Reprint and 5th ed., New York and London: Fairchild Books, 2018. 

Tortora, Phyllis G., and Sara B. Marcketti. Survey of Historic Costume. 6th ed., New York and London, Fairchild Books, 2015. 

Sabatini, Adélia. Dior Catwalk. Yale University Press, 2017.

#fashion #pinupmodel #pinupfashion #historicfashions #angeliquenoire

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A PASSION FOR HISTORIC FASHIONS: JENNA MILLER

Jenna Miller Travels Back in Time with Costume Design

Starting with our first post, after a hiatus, Trendy, Classic, & Vintage will be highlighting historical fashion costumers, sewers, and enthusiasts. Each interview will focus on an individual’s preferences, knowledge of a specific time period, and experiences. Additionally, each post will demonstrate historical influences that are present in contemporary fashion. A series of these posts will follow in the coming weeks. Check back each week to experience historical fashion through the eyes of passionate followers of the subject. The first in this series of posts will spotlight the work of Jenna Miller, who is the historical fashion blogger for the blog "Threading the West", and also a professional costume designer.

...

In the era of social media, utilizing a few hashtags, one can instantly be connected with individuals who are passionate about a particular industry or hobby. Hashtags related to historical costuming will lead you to many modern-day individuals dressed in garments of bygone eras. Jenna Miller is one of the historic costumers that you can discover on social media today. In the case of Miller, she has taken her passion for historic fashion a step further, by establishing her professional career around the subject. 

To begin, Miller is a professional costume designer whose work has been seen in two music videos by Randy Houser, as detailed within her resume at RavennaOldWest.com. The videos which include her work are ‘“...Like a Cowboy...” and ...”We Went,”’ according to the same source. Additionally, her professional resume includes work in television, films, theatrical productions, including Huckleberry Productions’ theatrical production of “Tragedy at the OK Corral,” and print publications. Her designs can be seen in the film Draw the Line, the Netflix series Godless, and Modern Luxury Scottsdale magazine’s March and April 2015 issue, as detailed within the same source.

However, her current costume design venture is for her own company Ravenna Old & New West Studios. The company combines design, photography, and more, as observed at RavennaOldWest.com. According to Miller, “...the costumes (are) for a showcase short film project...called ‘Victorian Orchards.’” Miller elaborates on the theme and storyline of the project by stating, “...we are recreating, through costume design, a day in the life of a Victorian-era family during a fruit orchard harvest season.” Her designs for the film will consist of  “...bright neutral linens and….hand…” constructed “...lace…” and embroidery “...to give the costumes a very delicate aesthetic.” In Miller’s summation, “It’s all in the details on this project as we are aiming to make it very visually spectacular.” 

Precise tailoring and the use of boning, intricate details, and layering are paramount to the creation of historic fashions. With these considerations in mind, how long does it take to construct them? According to Miller, the amount of time it takes her to design and sew a historical look, “...truly depends on the garment, but my latest creation, which is the absinthe gown … took me a full month to complete … For that gown, I made all the flowers, leaves, and even the tiny berries completely from scratch and then hand-painted portions of it.” Miller’s attention to detail has no doubt contributed to her success within the film, television, and music industries.

Source: Jenna Miller’s YouTube Channel

Miller’s dedication to design is clear, but how and when did her passion for the subject first arise? According to Miller, her interest in historical fashions began as a child, in which she would spend her time “...watching period films and reading historical novels.” Additionally, she had the unique childhood aspiration “...of becoming a museum curator.” 

Continuing on, according to Miller, her foray into designing historic costumes began, “...about 8 years ago.” Miller added, “I was living in the historic town of Tombstone, Arizona, working as a horse wrangler on a guest ranch. I started paying close attention to the 1880’s period costumes the local Old West reenactors were wearing around town and decided to try my hand at making one.” Miller's experience with sewing began as a hobby, before shifting to the focus of historical garment construction. Miller states, “Once I finished making the one Victorian gown, I was hooked on doing period costuming from then on.” 

Miller’s path to her career is one that many can relate to. Often one may not realize how much his or her early interests can influence one’s ultimate career. Miller’s story also demonstrates how one can be successful in pursuing a unique field of interest. As Miller exemplifies, passion is important, but hard work and the meticulous practice of her craft has helped her to take her childhood interests and make them into a career. 

Image Courtesy of Jenna Miller / Ravenna Old & New West Studios ©

----

Q&A: Costume Designer Preferences and Insights

Trendy, Classic, & Vintage: What is your favorite fashion era, and why?

Jenna Miller: I am a huge fan of the 1880s. Having been born and raised in the Great American West of Southeast Arizona, the Old West history of Tombstone and like towns always intrigued me and the fashions of that era struck a chord in my soul.

TCV: Who is your favorite figure in fashion history, and why? 

JM: Film costume designer Edith Head from the Golden Age of Hollywood is my fashion hero. I have always greatly admired her designs. It just so happens that my great aunt and Edith were best friends when they were young and I have in my possession several photographs of the two of them together as young girls. I treasure those old photographs.

TCV: If you follow current fashions, what historical influences have you seen returning?

JM: Ah, so many historical influences are returning and it is a wonderful thing! I would definitely say I’ve seen a lot of the 1950’s styles making a comeback and there’s quite a trend of early 19th-century fashion influence I’ve seen seeping into modern fashion. It seems a lot of the younger generation of historical costumers on Instagram are influencing trends right now and to me, it is a lovely sight to behold.

TCV: If you could bring back one historical fashion, accessory item or trend, what would it be, and why? 

JM: Hats. I adore elegant historical style hats and greatly wish they were worn on a regular basis again.

TCV: Where do you find your materials to create your looks?

Works Cited:

Miller, Jenna. “Jenna’s Costuming Resume.”  Ravenna Old & New West Ventures. N.d., https://ravennaoldwest.com/about-the-designer/jennas-costuming-resume/, Accessed 9 July, 2020.

Miller, Jenna. “Re: Interview about historic costuming.” Received by Brittany Kilpatrick, 23 June 2020. Email Interview.

Miller, Jenna. Instagram Correspondence. Received by Brittany Kilpatrick, 22 July 2020. Email Interview.

“Absinthe Green in the Meadow by Ravenna Old West.” YouTube, uploaded by Jenna Miller, 28 April 2020, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFoznhKh2NI, Accessed 25 July, 2020.

#JennaMiller historiccostume costumedesign RavennaOldWest fashionhistory fashion

[trendyclassicandvintage]

Want to Travel Through Fashion History?

The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Exhibition “About Time: Fashion and Duration” Will Take you on This Journey

Illustration by Clker-Free-Vector-Images from Pixabay 

           One frequent question posed by enthusiasts, and those who with only a passing interest in fashion alike, will fashions in the 2020’s reference the 1920s? With this recurring question online, it seems like the perfect time for retrospection. The Costume Institute, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, offers the opportunity to do just that. The upcoming exhibition “About Time: Fashion and Duration,” lets one examine and reinterpret fashion history. We at Trendy, Classic, & Vintage, have the 411 on this opportunity to witness fashion through various ages, in one exhibition. 

         To begin, according to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, in its “About Time: Fashion and Duration - Exhibition Overview,” fashions highlighted in this presentation will range “...from 1870 to the present….” The exhibition will highlight the ‘“...cyclical…” tendencies of fashion, in addition to its progression chronologically, according to Max Hollein, the museum’s director, as quoted by Nicole Phelps on Vogue.com.

         Continuing on, the presentation is also influenced by several sources, as detailed by Paul Madley of Vmagazine.com. The main reference point is Virginia Woolf’s book Orlando and 1992 film based on this work, which features the concept of traveling through time, as detailed by Madley. The same work was recently referenced by Rei Kawakubo, in her Comme des Garcons and Comme des Garçons Homme Plus collections, for the Spring 2020 ready-to-wear and menswear seasons, according to Sarah Mower of Vogue.com. Kawakubo, as detailed by Mower, will be the costume designer for a stage production of this work. 

Source: Comme des Garçons Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear Show

 from Fashion Feed’s YouTube Channel   

      To conclude, we need to wait to see if there will, in fact, be characteristics from the attire of the 1920s present in the attire of 2020′s, because after all not even what is seen on the runway can completely determine what consumers wear. However, a trip to this exhibition, held from May 7th - September 7th, 2020, might be one way to try to dissect where fashion may be heading in the next decade. At the very least, it can help inspire attendees to be creative with their own wardrobe choices in the future. 

 Works Cited:

 Madley, Paul. “The Met Gala Announces 2020 Theme: About Time: Fashion and Duration.” V Magazine, Visionaire, 7 Nov. 2019, https://vmagazine.com/article/the-met-gala-announces-2020-theme-about-time-fashion-and-duration/, Accessed 3 Dec. 2019. 

 Metropolitan Museum of Art Editors. “About Time: Fashion and Duration - Exhibition Overview.” The Metropolitan Museum of Art, n.d., https://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2020/about-time, Accessed 3 Dec. 2019. 

 Phelps, Nicole. “The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute Announces Its 2020 Theme: About Time: Fashion and Duration.” Vogue, Condé Nast, 7 Nov. 2019, https://www.vogue.com/article/costume-institute-2020-exhibition-metgala-theme-about-time-fashion-duration, Accessed 4 Dec. 2019.

 Phelps, Nicole. “Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear - Comme des Garçons.” Vogue, Condé Nast, 28 Sept. 2019, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons, Accessed 4 Dec. 2019.

Video Citation:

“Comme des Garçons - Spring/Summer 2020 - Paris Fashion Week,” YouTube, uploaded by Fashion Feed, 20 Oct., 2019, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BG6YhglZAGs, Accessed 14 Jan. 2020.

Image Citation:

Pixabay. Model Clothing Era Women Fashion 33182. N.d., Clker-Free-Vector-Images, housed online, Pixabay, https://pixabay.com/vectors/model-clothing-era-women-fashion-33182/, 14 Jan. 2020.

#MetGala2020 abouttimefashionandduration fashionhistory metropolitanmuseumofart NewYork CommedesGarcons

[trendyclassicandvintage]

New logo...New Content...in 2020!

Have a Happy and Fashionable New Year Everyone!

For anyone who has not seen our Instagram page, this was our original logo. 

#Newcontentsoon NewYear Fashion

[trendyclassicandvintage]

July’s Five Fashion Finds

Photo by Suzy Hazelwood from Pexels entitled Spool of Purple Thread Near Needle, Thimble, and Measuring Tape.

For this week’s post, I have rounded up my favorite internet finds on the subject of fashion, from this month. I have included an article that touches upon fashion media, a video that sums up a few decades of fashion in a convenient short length format, a nostalgic glance back at the infamous of the show Gossip Girl, a noteworthy ad campaign, and an informative discussion about fashion during the “Space Age” and more. I hope that you enjoy these finds, my takes on their content, and the insights provided by the creators of the content discussed here.  

1. Chantal Fernandez, “How Hearst Makes It Work,” published by The Business of Fashion on July 23, 2019.

           In this article, Fernandez breaks down the many challenges that print publications are facing today, and strategies that may be used to contend to these issues now and in the future. Ultimately, I do feel that both digital and print media can co-exist, because both offer benefits to consumers. Below I have weighed the pros and cons of each form of media.

Photo by Bia Sousa from Pexels - entitled Woman Wearing White Coat Holding Books

Benefits of Print:

In my opinion, print still possesses traits that cannot be replicated in the digital experience. Personally, I have noticed that when I read articles purely online, I can tend to forget about what I have read. I comprehend and remember news stories better when I am physically holding the printed material. Online there are many distractions such as pop ups, videos that automatically blare once you get onto a page, and links to other articles, that I feel interfere with the comprehension and the focus on the material. Online articles can be convenient, but I feel it is harder to recall specific online articles we have read because the internet is very saturated. Personally, I tend to recall only those that have some form of analysis, such as those I read in The Business of Fashion, that require the reader to mentally take part in the article, so to speak.

Benefits of Digital Content:

           However, digital content also has benefits, despite these cons. Digital content from many sources is easier to manage, because you can have so many different sources stored on one portable device, which I will admit does save one’s back from carrying around too many books and magazines. Additionally, the various forms of media within the digital realm makes it more multi-dimensional, which can hold a reader’s attention. Finally, related links that pop up, while sometimes an annoyance or a distraction, can be helpful if one wants to find related articles to read afterwards, which can enhance one’s knowledge of a particular subject.

2. Zoe Hong- Fashion History:1900-1920

I personally am a huge fashion of fashion history related videos on YouTube. I was surprised and glad to see that one of favorite YouTube fashion content creators published a video on fashion history. I find this video to be a brief, but highly effective summary of fashion from the  1900-1920. I particularly liked that Hong drafted a timeline for the content she discussed. I feel that it can be difficult to sum up more than one decade of fashion in a short video, but based on my experience of being in a fashion history course, this video really touched on all of the important people and significant developments. I also  highly recommend the books that she featured within this video, which she includes in the video’s description.

3. Lynn Yaeger, “A Vogue Editor’s Guide to the Best Fashion on Gossip Girl,” published on Vogue.com on July 22nd, 2019. (Edited by Anny Choi).

           When I think about what may have inspired my love of fashion, there are a few things come to mind. For one, I had a penchant early on for dress up, and I was one of the more extreme appreciators of this activity. Another factor that I feel contributed to my love of fashion was the film Titanic, for which the costumes held my attention just as much, if not more than Leonardo Dicaprio. Finally, one of the biggest influences on my love of fashion was the television series Gossip Girl. While the drama on the show was fascinating, the clothes to me were the centerpiece. I particularly felt drawn to the wardrobe of Blair Waldorf. I loved the mix of modernity and classic pieces in her wardrobe, and seeing the playful or strategic styling of her looks. I will forever be influenced by her more ladylike looks. Lynn Yaegar of Vogue.com discussed her favorite fashions, and those of her fellow editors, from the original series, on the heels of the announcement of the series having a future reboot. Additionally, the article then features a curation of modern pieces that can emulate these original GG looks.

4. Gucci’s Fall 2019 Ad Campaign

To  begin, Alessandro Michele always has fantasy, over the top, entertaining qualities to his work for Gucci, as discussed by Alyssa Vingan Klein on Fashionista.com. The shoot highlights the construction process of garments, as detailed by Vingan Klein. A fashion presentation within a fashion presentation, is also part of what makes this advertisement, as Alyssa Vingan Klein describes, a “...somewhat educational-- story through it’s ad imagery….” Mekita Rivas of Refinery29 explains that this presentation depicts the fashion industry, prior to the ambush of fast fashion and the influence of content from the digital realm, with specific focus on following the ready-to-wear industry “... from the 1950s to the 1980s….”

          Additionally,  Rivas details that in a Gucci Press Release, the brand states that part of the goal of these advertisements was to help gain appreciation for the processes that go into making a collection. Personally, I feel that this campaign is an important reminder that fashion is a serious business that like any involves a lot of players, steps, and attention to detail in order to function and fulfill tasks. For an industry that is often not recognized for its significance, and the hard work that goes into its finished products, I am glad that Gucci has created a campaign with this consideration in mind, as detailed by Rivas and within the brand’s press release. I also feel that this advertisement campaign reminds consumers that while the designer’s are often the ones credited with a fashion product, there are many people involved in making garments. In today’s world, where online shopping is common, consumers may forget how many are employed in making the garments they wear.

Source: YouTube, Gucci’s YouTube Channel

5. Dressed: The History of Fashion podcast, “Space Age Fashion: an interview with Sara Jean Culbreth,” published on July 23rd, 2019

On this podcast episode, hosted by Cassidy Zachary, April Calahan, and featuring Sara Jean Culbreth, there is a discussion about fashion during the time of Space Age excitement. Pierre Cardin is a major player included within the discussion of this contest. Additionally, there is a major component of the discussion that revolves around the transitional phase of the coexistence of haute couture and ready-to-wear. It is interesting to ponder the significance of each and the tug of war between the two. For another work that goes into discussion about haute couture and ready-to-wear, check out the book The Battle of Versailles: The Night American Fashion Stumbled into the Spotlight and Made History by Robin Givhan.

Source: Cardin, Pierre. Dress, 1968, France, steel plates that were polished and wool crepe in black,. The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, The Museum at FIT Collections, The Museum at FIT.

         Note: To view and read the contents detailed here, click on the linked contents (in bold) within each example’s title or content (example 4).

Works Cited:

Example 1:

Fernandez, Chantel. “How Hearst Makes It Work.” The Business of Fashion, 23 July, 2019, https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/professional/how-hearst-makes-it-work, Accessed 27 July 2019.

Example 2:

“Fashion History: 1900-1920,” YouTube, uploaded by Zoe Hong, 21 Jul, 2019, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViNDmCX3DOw&t=223s, Accessed 21 Jul. 2019.

Example 3:

Yaeger, Lynn. “A Vogue Editor’s Guide to the Best Fashion on Gossip Girl,” Vogue, Condé Nast, 22 July, 2019, https://www.vogue.com/article/best-gossip-girl-fashion-vogue-editors-favorite-looks?verso=true, Accessed 27 July 2019.

Savage, Stephanie, and Josh Schwartz, creators. Gossip Girl. 17th Street Productions and Alloy Entertainment, 2007-2012.

Titanic. Directed by James Cameron. Performances by Leonardo DiCaprio, Kate Winslet, and Billy Zane, Twentieth Century Fox, Paramount Pictures, and Lightstorm Entertainment, 1997.

           Example 4:

Vingan Klein, Alyssa. “Gucci Tells the Rich Behind-the-Scenes Tale of its collection for the Fall 2019 Ad Campaign,” Fashionista, Breaking Media Inc., 15 July, 2019,  https://fashionista.com/2019/07/gucci-fall-2019-ad-campaign, Accessed 27 Jul. 2019.

Rivas, Mekita. “Gucci’s FW ‘19 Campaign Is a Tribute to the Heyday of Ready-To-Wear,” Refinery29, 15 July, 2019 , https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2019/07/237900/gucci-fall-2019-campaign-ready-to-wear, Accessed 27 July 2019.

“Gucci Prêt-À-Porter: The Fall-Winter 2019 Campaign,” YouTube, uploaded by Gucci, 15 July, 2019, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GqOQBsikFts&t=61s, Accessed 27 July, 2019.

           Example 5:

Calahan, April, Cassidy Zachary, and Sara Jean Culbreth, narrators. “Space Age Fashion: an interview with Sara Jean Culbreth,” Dressed: The History of Fashion, iHeartRadio, 23 July, 2019, https://www.dressedpodcast.com/podcasts/space-age-fashion-an-interview-with-sarah-jean-culbreth.htm.

Givhan, Robin. The Battle of Versailles: The Night American Fashion Stumbled into the Spotlight and Made History. New York, Flatiron Books, 2015.

#fashionmedia hearst dressedpodcast spaceagefashion pierrecardin fashionhistory zoehong gucci gossipgirlfashion

[trendyclassicandvintage]

Buon Compleanno (Happy Birthday) Giorgio Armani!

Source: Armani, Giorgio, Evening Dress, Fall 2007, Italian, Swarovski crystal rhinestones as well as beads, on silk in the color silver. The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, The Museum at FIT Collections, The Museum at FIT.

To celebrate Giorgio Armani’s birthday, as detailed in the biography of the Italian fashion designeri on Biography.com, I will discuss some of my favorite womenswear creations and collections, that he has produced thus far.  

1. From the earlier years of his business, one of my favorite looks is this suit from 1979 (linked here), which is from the Metropolitan Museum of Art, in New York. When one looks at wrap garments, be it a wrap dress, made famous by Diane von Furstenberg, or top, they tend to give off the feeling of comfort. Seeing this wrapped feature utilized in this womens suit gives an otherwise structured garment, a welcoming ease to it’s styling. In today’s world, the jacket of this suit could work in the boardroom and could also be suitable for a formal night out, when presented in other fabrications. As one who is not a huge fan of pants, I could see myself motivated to wear pants, if I had a blazer in black that had this silhouette and fit.

2.  As someone who enjoys looking at historical fashion garments, I found the look seen at the left during the 3 minutes and 36 seconds mark of this video (linked here), to be one that I highly appreciated. When I first glance, I began to ponder what the jacket reminded me of, and I realized it reminded me of the riding habits styles of the 1700s-1900s, demonstrated in examples provided next, linked or provided here, from the Metropolitan Museum of Art . For comparison, look at these examples from the Met that date back to 1760, 1875, 1890, 1897 and the 1900s, and you find that apart from a more skin-baring neckline and streamlined shoulders, they are very similar in silhouette. While I am not a huge fan of modern athleisure clothing, I have always had a fondness for the riding habit, which is an example of early sporting attire, as detailed by the Metropolitan Museum of Art. While Giorgio Armani was quoted in an interview featured in “Life of a Star: Giorgio Armani Designer” from Art in Fusion’s YouTube Channel, for not wanting to pitch older clothes to a new generation, he does seem to have the ability to take past silhouettes, as demonstrated with this example in particular and discussed within the same video, and freshen them up for the current era.

Video Source:

Art In Fusion YouTube Channel

Source:  Riding Coat, 1760, British, Medium: Possibly Wool or Silk and Goat Hair (The listing showed several examples), Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81754.

Source: Riding Habit, 1875, American, Medium: Wool, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/107613.

Source: A.F. Müller New York, Riding Habit, 1890, American, Medium: Wool, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/107074. 

Side Note:

For a collection, that more definitive and deliberate references and explores the concept of riding habits, as detailed by Sarah Mower for Vogue.com, check out John Galliano’s Spring 2010 Couture collection for Christian Dior.

3.  In my next favorite look by Giorgio Armani, for his Armani Privé Fall 2005 Couture collection, my appreciation for this look is all about the details. I am highlighting the jacket in this example, as it is the piece that stands out to me. For many designs sometimes the closures on a garment can play second fiddle, so to speak, in comparison to the rest of the look. However, in this peplum jacket, the rosette closures provide a sense of softness amongst the exquisite tailoring. Additionally, the jacket’s silhouette proves that finessed tailoring isn’t just for menswear. Another reason that this jacket is one of my favorites is that it is timeless. I could totally see this jacket as one that could be passed off as a historical piece in period drama. However, at the same time, this piece could also fit into the current Dynasty reboot.

4.  In terms of collections, the couture collection from the Fall 2006 season stands out to me. There is some playful experimentation within this collection. In this collection there are jackets that play with contrasting textures. There are also neat sculptural details that provide further dimensions to otherwise uniform and classic pieces. Pleats are a detail that are explored in this collection. Look 2, is one of the collection’s highlights in my opinion. The pleats within this coat and the ease of the sleeves provide a sense of fluidity, while the collar provides a kind of focal point.

 For look 2, from the Fall 2006 couture collection, see the 45 second mark of the video above.

Video Source: Fashion Channel, YouTube Channel

5. Finally, another look that grabbed my attention was look 9 of the Spring 2007 couture collection. This coat makes a strong case for asymmetry and how well it can flatter the female form. The tie closure of this coat, which closes on the right side of the image, provides a sense of balance with the asymmetric collar, as illustrated in Fashion Illustration Concept to Creation by Steven Stipelman. The coat’s fabrication is fluid enough to provide the ease required by the garment’s asymmetry, while is solid enough to provide some structure to this look.

 For look 9, from the Spring 2007 couture collection, see the 1 min and 6 seconds mark of the video above.

Video Source: FashionTV, YouTube Channel

To conclude, while these were my personal favorite creations by Armani, I would love to hear about your favorite pieces and shows. Feel free to discuss your favorites in the comments section.

Works Cited and to Consult for More Information:

Articles:

Biography.com Editors. “Giorgio Armani Biography.”  Biography, A&E Television Networks, 18 Apr, 2019, https://www.biography.com/fashion-designer/giorgio-armani, Accessed 7 July, 2019.

Mower, Sarah. “Spring 2010 Couture : Christian Dior.” Vogue, Condé Nast, 24 Jan. 2010, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2010-couture/christian-dior#coverage, Accessed 11 July, 2019.

Metropolitan Museum of Art Editors. “Riding Coat, ca. 1760.” The Metropolitan Museum of Art, n.d., https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81754, Accessed 11 July, 2019.

Book:

Stipelman, Steven. Illustrating Fashion: Concept to Creation. 3rd ed., New York: Fairchild Books, 2011

Television:

Savage, Stephanie, Josh Schwartz, and Sallie Patrick, creators. Dynasty. Richard & Esther Shapiro Entertainment, 2017- Present.

Videos:

“Life of a Star: Giorgio Armani Designer,” YouTube, uploaded by Art in Fusion 13 Feb. 2015, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yELc8UqeS7w&t=12s, Accessed 10 July, 2019.

“ARMANI PRIVE’ Fall Winter 2006 2007 Haute Couture Paris -Fashion Channel.” YouTube, uploaded by Fashion Channel, 7 Aug. 2018, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PFL2qXNZ3U, Accessed 11 July, 2019.

“Fashiontv- FTV.com- Giorgio Armani PRIVE Haute Couture s/s 2007,” YouTube, uploaded by FashionTV, 10 Apr. 2010, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yViO1VSC0wg, Accessed 11 July 2019.

“Diane Von Furstenberg on the Iconic Wrap Dress - Matchesfashion.com,” YouTube, uploaded by MatchesFashion.com, 26 Nov. 2014, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6KoBDpbfNE, Accessed 11 July, 2019.

Images/ Looks and Collections Referenced:

FIT Image: Armani, Giorgio, Evening Dress, Fall 2007, Italian, Swarovski crystal rhinestones as well as beads, on silk in the color silver. The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, The Museum at FIT Collections, The Museum at FIT.

Met Image 1: Armani, Giorgio, Suit, 1979, Italian, Medium: Wool, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/80423.

Met Image 2: Riding Coat, 1760, British, Medium: Possibly Wool or Silk and Goat Hair (The listing showed several examples), Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81754.

Met Image 3:  A.F. Müller New York, Riding Habit, 1890, American, Medium: Wool, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/107074.

Met Image 4: Riding Habit, 1875, American, Medium: Wool, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/107613.

Met Image 5: Frederick Loeser & Company (Department Store), Riding Habit, 1897, American, Medium: Wool, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/159028.

Met Image 6:

T. Miller & Sons Riding Habit, 1900s, American (New York), Medium: Wool, Cotton, and silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/107074.

Runway Looks and Collections:

Armani Privé Runway Collection, Paris, Fall 2005 Couture, Look 1,

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2005-couture/armani-prive/slideshow/collection#1, Accessed 11 July, 2019.

Armani Privé Runway Collection, Paris, Fall 2006 Couture, Looks 1-49,

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2006-couture/armani-prive#collection, Accessed 11 July, 2019.

Armani Privé Runway Collection, Paris, Fall 2006 Couture, Look 2,

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2006-couture/armani-prive/slideshow/collection#2 , Accessed 11 July, 2019.

Armani Privé Runway Collection, Paris, Spring 2007 Couture, Look 9, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2007-couture/armani-prive/slideshow/collection#9, Accessed 11 July, 2019.

Christian Dior Runway Collection (Designed by John Galliano), Paris, Spring 2010 Couture, Looks 1-4 and 6-8, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2010-couture/christian-dior#collection, Accessed 11 July, 2019.

#birthday #giorgioarmani #fashion #italy #couture #@giorgioarmani #@museumatFIT

[trendyclassicandvintage]

Photo by Fancycrave.com from Pexels 

A CFDA Award Winner Is Born: Brandon Maxwell

In honor of the recent CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) Award ceremony, we are discussing the past achievements and experiences of the 2019 womenswear award winner Brandon Maxwell. 

        To begin, one of the earliest experiences that proved to be highly influential to his future career aspirations, involved the time Brandon Maxwell spent being around his grandmother and her work environment, as detailed by BrandonMaxwellStudio.com and The Business of Fashion. According to the designer’s biography, on BrandonMaxwellStudio.com, and an interview with Emma Spedding for The Telegraph article “Celebrity Stylist-turned-designer Brandon Maxwell on his Best Friend Lady Gaga and Conquering the Red Carpet,” while observing his grandmother work, as a personal shopper as well as a buyer, at a Texas boutique, he would take in the impeccable personal styles of the customers that would come in. Being in this environment was likely a natural breeding ground for an interest in fashion for Maxwell.

              However, beyond this interest, seeing his grandmother’s work as a personal shopper has also influenced the philosophy that Maxwell has for his business, which is to really focus on the woman wearing the clothing and her level of comfort while wearing it, as observed and detailed in his biography on BrandonMaxwellStudio.com and an interview with Spedding. Rather than aiming to be the most creative designer, Maxwell cares more about the happiness of his clients, and creating garments that empower and not overwhelm those wearing them, as detailed by Spedding. As stated in the designer’s biography, at BrandonMaxwellStudio.com, “The brand was born out of the desire to make women feel beautiful, sophisticated and powerful, with timeless garments that are impeccably tailored.”

Continuing onward, in terms of his professional experiences, as of 2012, Maxwell established himself as a stylist, after some years of assisting the work of other key stylists and fashion professionals, as detailed on BrandonMaxwellStudio.com and The Business of Fashion. In addition to his editorial and other professional experiences, he became a fashion director for musical performer and actress Lady Gaga. As detailed in  “It’s a Good Season to be Stylist and Fashion Designer Brandon Maxwell,” Gaga has been a huge supporter in his career, someone who saw his potential to be a fashion designer and urged him to take plunge into establishing his brand, according to Maxwell in 2016. His brand was officially founded in 2015, according to The Business of Fashion.

Source: “Brandon Maxwell - Fall/Winter 2019/2020 Full Fashion Show - Exclusive,” YouTube, FF Channel, 25 Feb. 2019, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvXShRcRcpw, Accessed 7 June, 2019.

Finally, since the start of his namesake label, Maxwell has received several recognitions. These recognitions, noted on BrandonMaxwellStudio.com and by The Business of Fashion,  include receiving a semi-final level Woolmark New York award in 2018, being a finalist in a competition held by LVMH in 2016, and receiving the Rising Star Award from the Fashion Group International for the category of womenswear design. Prior to this month’s win,  in the category of womenswear at the CFDA awards, Maxwell was previously awarded the Swarovski Award for the category of womenswear at the CFDA awards ceremony in 2016.

Source:  “2019 CFDA Fashion Awards: Brandon Maxwell Wins Womenswear Designer of the Year Award,” YouTube, uploaded by CFDA, 3 June, 2019, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgb84FGj7dk, Accessed 7 June, 2019

Sources Consulted and for more information:

McHenry, Jackson. “Lady Gaga Arrived to the Met Gala With Four Outfits and a Wagon,” Vulture, New York Media LLC., 6 May, 2019, https://www.vulture.com/2019/05/met-gala-2019-lady-gaga-four-outfits.html, Accessed 7 June, 2019.

“Brandon Maxwell: Designer.” Brandon Maxwell Studio, Brandon Maxwell, n.d., http://brandonmaxwellstudio.com/about/designer/, Accessed 7 June 2019.

“Brandon Maxwell: BoF 500 Biography.” The Business of Fashion, The Business of Fashion, n.d.,https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/brandon-maxwell-1, Accessed 7 June, 2019.

Harper, Marques. “It’s a Good Season to be Stylist and Fashion Designer Brandon Maxwell,” Los Angeles Times, 15 July, 2016, https://www.latimes.com/fashion/la-ig-brandon-maxwell-20160630-snap-story.html, Accessed 7 June, 2019.

Spedding, Emma. “ Celebrity Stylist-turned-designer Brandon Maxwell on his Best Friend Lady Gaga and Conquering the Red Carpet.” The Telegraph, Telegraph Media Group Limited, 12 Oct. 2016,  https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/brands/celebrity-stylist-turned-designer-brandon-maxwell-on-his-best-fr/, Accessed 7 Jun. 2019.

Yeung, Jeff. “Here’s the Full List of CFDA Fashion Awards 2019 Winners,” Hypebeast, Hypebeast Hong Kong LLC.,  4 Jun. 2019, https://hypebeast.com/2019/6/cfda-fashion-awards-2019-winners-list, Accessed 6 Jun, 2019.

#cfda #cfda fashion awards #cfda 2019 #brandon maxwell

[trendyclassicandvintage]

Betsey Johnson: The queen of vivacious and youthful fashions that we adore

Johnson, Betsey. Dress, 1971, USA, Medium; wool knit that was “Space-dyed.” The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, The Museum at FIT Collections, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. 

 When I think of Betsey Johnson a few ideas run through my mind. “‘Wild Child,’” is one phrase commonly used to describe Johnson, as exemplified in her biography on BetseyJohnson.com, in Anam Syed’s piece for Bustle, and PMC-Mag.com. However, overall I would describe Johnson and her work as joyful, which is also expressed in the her biography, and a designer that is consistent with her aesthetics and personality.The infamous Gabrielle “‘Coco’” Chanel quote comes to mind as well, ‘“In order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different,’” found on Brainyquote.com. Chanel’s words seem to sum up the key to Johnson’s success.

Johnson’s aesthetic can have a variety of moods, from bow-adorned prettiness, punk-infused, wild, animated, and cartoonish at any given time, as evidenced by Johnson in the reality show XOX Betsey Johnson and in her work,  but that is why fans love her. In a world full of daily hardships, her work continues to give fans a reason to smile. My personal favorite piece that I own of hers is a handbag that looks like a book about fashion, which is covered with illustrations, and has a Betsey doll attached. Whenever I have a bad day, I look at this bag and can’t help but smile and think of her infamous catwalk cartwheels, demonstrated in the first episode of the previously detailed reality show. Her spirit is infectious and makes one wish he or she was related to this icon.

            Her personality has made me want to do a more personal post about her, beyond mere factual account. There are some designers in life that manage to touch the hearts of their customers, and she is one those examples. As discussed and demonstrated on her former reality show XOX Betsey Johnson, many of Betsey’s designs connect with fans because of the memories that encapsulate in their lives, particularly when it comes to prom style dresses. Betsey is the kind of designer that you want future generations to know about, hence the reason why two of my nieces received Betsey bags for their birthdays. Seeing the joy on my niece’s face when she received her phone purse, featuring imagery depicting the spinner from the front of old phones, reminded me of how I felt when I got my first Betsey bag. Her work brings so much joy to her fans, and makes one feel like they are a kid, teenager, or twenty-something again.

    My niece Zoe and her Betsey bag.

     In serious times, Betsey has helped make us all feel young again, with the unique eccentricities of her work. Betsey Johnson has that Rod Stewart, “Forever Young” vibe about her, which allows her to connect with countless generations, and make us smile. In honor of her birthday, which was earlier this month, Trendy, Classic, and Vintage wants to wish her many fantastic years to follow, and thank her for always being a source of optimism through her work.

Source: “Betsey Johnson Spring/Summer 2013- Videofashion.” YouTube, uploaded by Videofashion, 14 Nov. 2012, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YmgcSHEoyLA, Accessed 27 Aug. 2018

Source: “Dancing with the Stars 19- Betsey Johnson & Tony- LIVE 9-15-14” YouTube, uploaded by Mcasaz Betisep, 18 Sep. 2014.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gt_RliZyPsA

, Accessed 27 Aug. 2018.

Despite the malfunction, this routine truly captures the spirit of Betsey. 

Works Consulted and for more Information:

Gips, Archie, Christopher Meindl, and Sitarah Pendelton, executive producers. XOX Betsey Johnson. Performances by Betsey Johnson and Lulu Johnson, Style Media Productions, 2013.

“Rod Stewart- Forever Young (Official Video).” YouTube, uploaded by Alberto Cruz, 28 May, 2010, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1T9apksOv6k&list=RD1T9apksOv6k&t=3, Accessed 27 Aug, 2018.

BetseyJohnson.com Editors, “ New York Designer Betsey Johnson has built her long-standing career in fashion by following her own set of rules.” Betsey Johnson, n.d., https://www.betseyjohnson.com/content.jsp?pageName=BetseysBio, Accessed 27 Aug. 2018.

PMC-mag.com Editors, “Now & Then Betsey Johnson.” PMC Mag, January 2011,http://pmc-mag.com/2010/12/betsey-johnson/?full=content, Accessed 27 Aug. 2018.

Syed, Anam. “What Did Young Betsey Johnson Look Like? Spoiler: The ‘“DWTS”’ Star Has Always Been Awesomely Unique.” Bustle, 15 Sept. 2014,

https://www.bustle.com/articles/39894-what-did-young-betsey-johnson-look-like-spoiler-the-dwts-star-has-always-been-awesomely-unique, Accessed 27 Aug. 2018.

Chanel, Gabrielle “Coco.” “Coco Chanel Quotes.” BrainyQuote, n.d.,

https://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/coco_chanel_382612, Accessed 27 Aug. 2018.

Image Information:

Johnson, Betsey. Dress, 1971, USA, Medium; wool knit that was “Space-dyed.” The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, The Museum at FIT Collections, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology.

http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/objects/asitem/People$00401891/0?t:state:flow=d418c515-7436-48ea-8a41-b0d5a6baeff7

The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, New York. “Dress” by Betsey Johnson, 1971, USA, Medium: wool knit that was “Space-dyed.”

http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/objects/asitem/People$00401891/0?t:state:flow=d418c515-7436-48ea-8a41-b0d5a6baeff7

“Betsey Johnson Spring/Summer 2013- Videofashion.” YouTube, uploaded by Videofashion, 14 Nov. 2012, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YmgcSHEoyLA, Accessed 27 Aug. 2018

“Dancing with the Stars 19- Betsey Johnson & Tony- LIVE 9-15-14” YouTube, uploaded by Mcasaz Betisep, 18 Sep. 2014. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gt_RliZyPsA, Accessed 27 Aug. 2018.

@museumatfit

#betseyjohnson #fashionicon #happybelatedbirthday #welovebetseyjohnson #augustbirthday #@betseyjohnson

[trendyclassicandvintage]

McQueen and YSL: The Bold and the Brilliant

In honor of the recent release of the documentary McQueen about the notorious Lee Alexander McQueen, we discuss similarities between his work and that of Yves Saint Laurent, as well as the unique details utilized by each designer. Although both have left the world, their impact and influence will never be forgotten.

To begin, Yves Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen both took tailoring, traditionally associated with menswear, and uniquely executed these techniques in items for a woman’s wardrobe. Saint Laurent’s “le smoking” was sexy for the idea of a woman putting on a man’s suit, and essentially perhaps wearing it better than him. Some examples of Saint Laurent’s tailoring, as noted by Pamela Golbin in Fashion Designers, feature feminine details. In the examples below, as noted by the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, Saint Laurent made use of Alencon lace or a bold fuchsia colored fabrication, giving the look a more feminine feel . According to Who What Wear’s Nicole Kliest, Saint Laurent’s decision to introduce a suit for the female body was bold considering that, “In 1966... the perception of women wearing pants was considered off-kilter and inappropriate….” According to Robin Givhan, in the book Battle of Versailles, at a time when him and others challenged ideas of the conventional women’s wardrobe, France was still enforcing a law banning pants from being adorned by women. Over the years the brand consistently experiments with more adaptations of this look, making it a hallmark of the brand, as established in the Fashion Designer Directory by Marnie Fogg.

Saint Laurent, Yves. Suit. 1982, France, Medium: black satin, black silk faille, black wool, and ivory silk crepe. The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, The Museum at FIT Collections, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology.

Saint Laurent, Yves. Suit (alternative skirt). 1982, France, Medium: black satin, black silk faille, black wool, and ivory silk crepe. The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, The Museum at FIT Collections, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology.

Saint Laurent, Yves. Suit. Fall 1990, France, Medium: Alencon lace and black wool, The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, The Museum at FIT Collections, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology.

Saint Laurent, Yves for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Suit. Fall 1988, France, Medium: Red, Black, and Fuchsia Satin, The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, The Museum at FIT Collections, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology.

Like Saint Laurent, in the examples of McQueen, a few decades later, his silhouettes and design details make one forget that these techniques are usually ones that are associated with formal menswear attire. McQueen’s suits and tailored looks feature a distinctly feminine, at times corseted, hourglass silhouettes and historical references, as detailed and exemplified in The Berg Companion to Fashion, McQueen of Scots and The Legacy of Alexander McQueen. Like Saint Laurent, his ideas utilized aspects from men’s attire, as exemplified in this bodice example, from the Autumn/Winter 1999 collection he designed for Givenchy (See video below at about 9 minutes and 34 seconds on the time clock). As exemplified and described in The Legacy of Alexander McQueen and as described by the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s description accompanying the Bronze cuirass (body armor), garments with features such as a sculpted bodice, seen here (at 9 mins and 34 secs), are reminiscent of ancient armor from the Greek and Roman cultures, demonstrating his experimentation with the female form.

Unknown Artist. Bronze cuirass (body armor), 4th Century B.C. (Classical Period/ Greece), Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/256134, Accessed 31 July, 2018.

While the bodice highlights the female form, its similarity to the cuirass leads to the garment having the ability of giving a woman a powerful appearance, full of strength and capability. The bodice also can bring to mind imagery of portrayals of Wonder Woman from the past and present. In the example below, from the Museum at FIT, McQueen created a tailored dress, reminiscent of a suit jacket, for Givenchy, featuring a subtle hourglass shape, round shoulders, golden embroidered detailing, and unique combined collar and lapel.

McQueen, Alexander for Givenchy. Evening Dress. Fall 1997, France, Medium: Silk satin, metallic embroidery, and black wool, The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, The Museum at FIT Collections, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology.

McQueen, Alexander. Dress, Spring 2010, England, Medium: Chiffon and Silk satin that is printed utilizing numerous colors, The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, The Museum at FIT Collections, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology.

Both designers were also not afraid to push through the limitations implemented by what was considered respectable “taste” at that time. Saint Laurent and McQueen were not afraid to explore aspects and expressions of one’s sexuality, as exemplified and detailed in McQueen of Scots, The Legacy of Alexander McQueen, and Fashion Designers. Showing scandalous amounts of skin was part of both of their repertoires. McQueen’s ‘“Bumster”’ pants were one element of his more daring looks, as observed in the video “ALEXANDER MCQUEEN MADE MODELS DO WHAT?!? (Top 10 McQueen Shows to Know Part 1),” by Haute Le Mode, which hung scandalously low on the body. Sheer blouses and bodices of dresses by Saint Laurent, seen in his 1968-1969 Autumn/Winter Collection, pictured in the book Fashion Designers by Pamela Golbin, were similarly shocking. Saint Laurent’s comfortability with explorations of sexuality, is evident in the drawings he drew during his teens, as observed in The Drawings of Yves Saint Laurent.

However, these designers not only dared to display skin, they also were bold in other regards. In McQueen’s work, he went beyond the visual experience of clothing, and added further meaning to his designs. As established by McQueen, in the upcoming documentary of the same name, his shows were designed to trigger emotions and really get one thinking about their meanings. McQueen once stated, as featured in the trailer for McQueen, “I don’t want to do the show feeling like you’ve just had Sunday brunch. I want you to feel repulsed or exhilarated.” He work may have implemented a lot of shock tactics, like the ones seen in his ‘“Highland Rape”’ collection, but they were never merely disruptive, as detailed and observed in McQueen of Scots and The Legacy of Alexander McQueen. Even his most condemned shows, had broader messages that were relayed with the help of these methods.

In Yves Saint Laurent’s work, he dared to reference the attire from a difficult time in France’s history, when the country was occupied by Nazis, as the stimulus for his ‘“Libération”’ collection, as detailed by Laura Bonnet for Paris Vogue. The collection pushed the boundaries of political correctness and appropriateness. Ultimately, neither of these designers were afraid to take on challenging and controversial subjects. Like McQueen, Saint Laurent expressed similar motivations for incorporating shocking elements in his work. According to Bonnet, Saint Laurent once stated, “What do I want to do? Shock people and force them to think.”

   McQueen and Saint Laurent are cemented in fashion history, because they dared to be unconventional. The risks that they took in their works ultimately led to them being memorable. However, underneath bold actions lay another key to their success….skill. As detailed in The Berg Companion To Fashion, by Caroline Evans, McQueen studied tailoring at Savile Row. Saint Laurent perfected his skill set by studying haute couture and worked alongside the greats such as Christian Dior. as established by Golbin in The Berg Companion To Fashion. Saint Laurent started penning down design ideas from a very early age, not waiting for adulthood to embark on his desired career path, as established in The Drawings of Yves Saint Laurent. McQueen was highly attentive to history and his ancestry, as detailed in McQueen of Scots and The Legacy of Alexander McQueen, which impacted his work, giving it rich layers keeping it from being merely aesthetics. Though both designers have passed, their work will forever maintain significance in fashion’s storied history.

Works Consulted and For More Information:

“ALEXANDER MCQUEEN MADE MODELS DO WHAT?!? (Top 10 McQueen Shows to Know Part 1), YouTube, uploaded by Haute Le Mode, 18 July, 2018, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMAqcOBEIGM&t=237s, Accessed 31 July, 2018.

“Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty-Gallery Views 2011.” YouTube, uploaded by The Met, 10 May 2011, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pg0HwLAJyV0, Accessed 31 July, 2018.

“Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty.” YouTube, uploaded by Victoria and Albert Museum, 30 Sept. 2015. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bZcwpgrJ-k&t=490s, Accessed 31 July, 2018.

“Inside Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty- British Vogue.” YouTube, Uploaded by British Vogue, 12 Mar. 2015, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8TzBItATow, Accessed 31 July, 2018.

“MCQUEEN - Official Trailer,” YouTube, Uploaded by Bleecker Street, 31 May, 2018, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OjX3ZbsfbU, Accessed 31 July, 2018.

“McQueen Givenchy A/W 1999- Pret-a-Porter,” YouTube, uploaded by Scroobily (From the Fashion Channel), 10 Aug. 2017, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSvnBTd4Ki8&t=76s , Accessed 31 July, 2018.

“Evolution of the WONDER WOMAN Suit,” YouTube, uploaded by Flashback FilmMaking, 19 Jun. 2018, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5kciGT_Atp4. Accessed 31 July, 2018.

“Superheroes of Fashion- New York Post,” YouTube, uploaded by New York Post, 5 May, 2018, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnYmhGZIzdg , Accessed 31 July, 2018.

Bonnet, Laura. “Yves Saint Laurent’s scandalous 1971 collection comes to the Fondation Pierre Bergé.” Translated by Lowri Evans, Paris Vogue, Condé Nast., 4 Feb. 2015, https://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-news/diaporama/yves-saint-laurents-scandalous-1971-collection-comes-to-the-fondation-pierre-berg/18928, Accessed 31 July, 2018.

Fogg, Marnie. Fashion Design Directory. New York: Firefly Books: 2011. Print. (*This book has a foreword by Jonathan Saunders, but it was not used for my research purposes for this post).

Givhan, Robin. Battle of Versailles. New York: Flatiron Books, 2015. Print.

Golbin, Pamela. Fashion Designers. New York: Watson-Guptill, 2001. Print.

Kliest, Nicole. “5 Facts You Never Knew About YSL’s Le Smoking Suit.” Who What Wear, Clique Brands Inc., 24 Nov. 2015.https://www.whowhatwear.com/yves-saint-laurent-le-smoking-suit, Accessed 23 July, 2018.

Price Alford, Holly and Anne Stegemeyer. Who’s Who in Fashion. 6th ed., Fairchild Books/ Bloomsbury: 2014. Print.

Golbin, Pamela, “Saint Laurent, Yves.” The Berg Companion To Fashion, edited by Valerie Steele, Berg, 2010, 607-611.

Evans, Caroline, “McQueen, Alexander.” The Berg Companion To Fashion, edited by Valerie Steele, Berg, 2010, 505-507.

Biography.com Editors, “Yves Saint Laurent Biography.” Biography, A&E Television Networks, 2 Apr. 2014. https://www.biography.com/people/yves-saint-laurent-9469669, Accessed 23 July, 2018.

Met Museum Editors, “Bronze cuirass (body armor).” The Metropolitan Museum of Art, n.d. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/256134. Accessed 23, July 2018.

Unknown Artist. Bronze cuirass (body armor), 4th Century B.C. (Classical Period/ Greece), Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/256134, Accessed 31 July, 2018.

The Legacy of Alexander McQueen. Made to Measure (M2M.tv), uploaded by Made to Measure (M2M), n.d., https://m2m.tv/watch/the-legacy-of-alexander-mcqueen/films, Accessed 23, July 2018. (Prod. Bangumi and Deralf/ Dir. Loic Prigent/ ARTE G.E.I.E./ 2015).

William Moulton Marston and Stanley Ralph Ross, creators. Wonder Woman. Bruce Lansbury Productions, Douglas S. Cramer Company, and Warner Bros, 1975-1979.

Wonder Woman. Directed by Patty Jenkins, Performances by Gal Gadot and Chris Pine, Warners Bros., 2017.

**McQueen of Scots. Directed by Tony Kearney, performances by Cathy Macdonald, Tony Kearney, and Janet McQueen, Janson Media, 2014.

**The Drawings of Yves Saint Laurent. Directed by Lȍic Prigent, performances by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, Janson Media and Bangumi Deralf, 2017.

**Watch with Amazon Prime

McQueen, Alexander. Dress, Spring 2010, The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, The Museum at FIT Collections, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/objects/asitem/People$00401096/2?t:state:flow=7f994da0-d736-41fe-ab6a-061748cc1a26, Accessed 31 July, 2018.

The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, New York, “ Dress” by Alexander McQueen, Spring 2010, England, Medium: Chiffon and Silk satin that is printed utilizing numerous colors. http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/objects/asitem/People$00401096/2?t:state:flow=7f994da0-d736-41fe-ab6a-061748cc1a26

McQueen, Alexander for Givenchy. Evening Dress. Fall 1997, The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, The Museum at FIT Collections, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/objects/asitem/search$0040/0/dynasty-desc?t:state:flow=e4451def-a8dc-474e-a12f-0d8872d05059, Accessed 23 July, 2018.

The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, New York, “Evening Dress” by Alexander McQueen for Givenchy, Fall 1997, France, Medium: Silk satin, metallic embroidery, and black wool. http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/objects/asitem/search$0040/0/dynasty-desc?t:state:flow=e4451def-a8dc-474e-a12f-0d8872d05059

Saint Laurent, Yves. Suit. 1982. The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, The Museum at FIT Collections, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/objects/asitem/search$0040/2/dynasty-desc?t:state:flow=15b4c232-5528-4ba0-935b-629d6c0a2b12

The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, New York, “Suit” by Yves Saint Laurent, 1982, France, Medium: black satin, black silk faille, black wool, and ivory silk crepe. http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/objects/asitem/search$0040/2/dynasty-desc?t:state:flow=15b4c232-5528-4ba0-935b-629d6c0a2b12

Saint Laurent, Yves. Suit (alternative skirt). 1982. The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, The Museum at FIT Collections, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/objects/asitem/search$0040/2/dynasty-desc?t:state:flow=15b4c232-5528-4ba0-935b-629d6c0a2b12

The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, New York, “Suit (alternative skirt)” by Yves Saint Laurent, 1982, France, Medium: black satin, black silk faille, black wool, and ivory silk crepe. http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/objects/asitem/search$0040/2/dynasty-desc?t:state:flow=15b4c232-5528-4ba0-935b-629d6c0a2b12

http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/media/view/Objects/4272/41676?t:state:flow=0ee3380f-b76d-4983-a9e3-ce14e182b6e4

Saint Laurent, Yves for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Suit. Fall 1988, The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, The Museum at FIT Collections, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/objects/asitem/search$0040/6/dynasty-desc?t:state:flow=5d6f1e84-c5f6-49e6-807a-e156df5476ff

The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, New York, “Suit” by Yves Saint Laurent for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Fall 1988, France, Medium: Red, Black, and Fuchsia Satin. http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/objects/asitem/search$0040/6/dynasty-desc?t:state:flow=5d6f1e84-c5f6-49e6-807a-e156df5476ff

Saint Laurent, Yves. Suit. Fall 1990. The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, The Museum at FIT Collections, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/objects/asitem/search$0040/7/dynasty-desc?t:state:flow=806a75b1-9335-41a9-9a40-f96daa0e2754

The Museum at FIT- Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, New York, “Suit” by Yves Saint Laurent, Fall 1990, France, Medium: Alencon lace and black wool. http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/objects/asitem/search$0040/7/dynasty-desc?t:state:flow=806a75b1-9335-41a9-9a40-f96daa0e2754

#ysl #yves saint laurent #alexander mcqueen #mcqueendocumentary #museumatfit #metmuseum #@museumatfit #@metmuseum #@alexandermcqueen #@ysl

[trendyclassicandvintage]

Designed by Freepik (kjpargeter)

In honor of her recent birthday….We have rounded up 5 sources to learn more about the life and career of Vera Wang

    Since the 1990’s Vera Wang, as established by The Business of Fashion and Biography.com, and Evan Carmichael, has been known for her first foray into bridalwear, successes in that field, and the other categories of dress, accessories, and lifestyle that would follow her initial venture. However, her story is one that consists of various transitions and a variety of ventures along the way, in fashion and in other industries. Wang’s story proves that one should not give up on a dream or finding one’s true calling based on the expectations from society that are often based on one’s age. It is never too late to find your true dream in life, and Wang’s story is one inspiring example of this.

1.) The profile of Vera Wang, by The Business of Fashion, stands out for its excellent selection of quotes. In the publication’s biography about the designer readers  learn about the twist and turns that led to Wang’s notoriety and significance in fashion today. Wang’s story is one that is inspiring for anyone, myself included, that has gone through many ventures before landing on their ultimate career success. Everyone has a unique path to follow, and her story proves that it is worthwhile to maintain one’s individuality. The article highlighted here, goes beyond facts, and has an emotional and relatable appeal.           

2.) Biography.com editors have provided their own take on Vera Wang’s journey here. The profile here is the perfect complement to the one above. Biography.com provides further information about her career, upbringing, and past career ventures. There are some particularly fun facts provided in this example, which makes it well worth the read. Biography provides more information about her career ventures in between being a figure skater and fashion designer, along with more details about her vast achievements. 

3.) In the video below, Evan Carmichael has rounded up the various reasons behind the success of Vera Wang. Like the first piece, it is full of quotes that are highly applicable in the lives of many, beyond the life of Wang herself. Her wisdom is on full display in this video. After seeing a selection of material, from a commencement she delivered, highlighted in this video, I decided to highlight the full speech as well. 

“‘NO Matter How Many TIMES You FALL, GET UP and TRY AGAIN!’- Vera Wang- Top 10.”

Source: Evan Carmichael’s YouTube Channel

4.) In her own words, this commencement speech for Sarah Lawrence College, Wang passes on her wisdom she gained from the various experiences in her life and career. Her story demonstrates that failures are merely part of one’s pursuit of success. Additionally, all ventures have at least one positive aspect that are relevant to one’s life, her story demonstrates this in this video and in the resources above. Her career is one that shows that one can’t be afraid to switch things up and try new ventures along the way. The last five minutes are particularly inspiring. 

“Vera Wang ‘71, Keynote address to the Class of 2013: Sarah Lawrence College.”

Source: Sarah Lawrence College YouTube Channel

5.) Finally, we look back at some of her works from the past, in the following videos. The first example is a video of her Fall 1999 collection, from Fashion by Look’s YouTube Channel. The next video highlights her collection from Fall 2009, published by the same channel. The links that follow after the videos show Nicole Phelps’ review and discussion of Wang’s Fall 2018 ready-to-wear collection for Vogue.com, followed by a link to pictures of the entire collection, and the page where her past collections can be viewed from Vogue.com.

“Vera Wang Fall 1999: Fashion Flashback.” 

Source: Fashion by Look’s YouTube Channel 

“Vera Wang Fall 2009: Fashion Flashback.” 

Source: Fashion by Look’s YouTube Channel

 Works consulted and for More Information:

Biography.com Editors, “Vera Wang: Biography.” Biography, A&E Television Networks, 2 Apr. 2014, https://www.biography.com/people/vera-wang-9542398, Accessed 25 June, 2018. 

The Business of Fashion Editors, “Vera Wang: Biography.” Business of Fashion, n.d., https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/vera-wang, Accessed 27 June, 2018. 

Phelps, Nicole, “Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear Vera Wang,” Vogue, Condé  Nast, 1 Mar. 2018, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/vera-wang, Accessed 27 June, 2018. 

“Collection: Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear Vera Wang,” Vogue, Condé  Nast, 1 Mar. 2018, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/vera-wang#collection, Accessed 27 June, 2018. 

“Vera Wang.” Vogue, Condé  Nast, n.d., https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/designer/vera-wang, Accessed 27 June, 2018. 

“‘NO Matter How Many TIMES You FALL, GET UP and TRY AGAIN!’- Vera Wang- Top 10.” YouTube, Uploaded by Evan Carmichael, 17 Jan. 2018, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TnGiwgYlc7Y&t=110s, Accessed 27 June, 2018. 

“Vera Wang ‘71, Keynote address to the Class of 2013: Sarah Lawrence College.” YouTube, Uploaded by Sarah Lawrence College, 6 June, 2013, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07naXy5BNY4&t=4s, Accessed 27 June, 2018. 

“Vera Wang Fall 1999: Fashion Flashback.” YouTube, Uploaded by Fashion By Look, 15 Jan, 2014, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d4-9ES9f0r4&t=29s, Accessed 27 June, 2018. 

“Vera Wang Fall 2009: Fashion Flashback.” YouTube, Uploaded by Fashion By Look, 18 Jan, 2014, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDtRuREgHt8&t=2s, Accessed 27 June, 2018. 

#verawang #happybirthday #fashiondesigner #@verawang #@vogue #@bof #@businessoffashion

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Fashion Icons, Influencers, and Industry Leaders: Andre Leon Talley from my perspective

         If I was a famous fashion designer or celebrity there is the man who I would want to write my biography...André Leon Talley. After keeping up with Talley’s various written works and interviews, as well as meeting him at a book signing in 2015, I have observed one major characteristic and talent of André Leon Talley. Talley, who previously held the role as a creative director at Vogue, as detailed by Vanessa Friedman,  is an incredible storyteller in the world of fashion.

           He carries anyone who is listening or reading his words into any setting and event. His attention to detail sets the scene, and he captures all of the senses, with his words. Every event that he details notes intricate details about table place settings, garment construction, and aspects of the personalities of famous figures. Every time I hear or read about one of his experiences, I feel like I was there afterward. I truly admire his ability to make a story feel like it is part of your own reality.

          I am not surprised that he has had a documentary made about his life. His role in fashion in so valuable that he is an irreplaceable presence, in my opinion. Through his tales, fashion’s rich history is maintained. His charisma and presentation of the historical events he recounts make his words extremely memorable. 

    Some have casted doubts, after he left Vogue, but I am not one of them. I think Talley has so much more to add to the world of fashion, no matter where he works, and what direction he goes into. Fashion is known for its ability to make people dream and think outside of the box, as detailed by Sarah Jessica Parker in In Vogue: The Editor’s Eye. Talley embodies this characteristic, and in my view, he is one of the key figures that helps keep this aspect present in fashion.

Sources Consulted and for more information:

Friedman, Vanessa. “André Leon Talley’s Next Act.”  New York Times, 24 May, 2018, https://www.nytimes.com/2018/05/24/style/andre-leon-talley-documentary.html, Accessed 16 June, 2018.

In Vogue: The Editor’s Eye. Dir. Fenton Bailey and Randy Barbato. Perf. Anna Wintour, Hamish Bowles, and Grace Coddington. HBO Documentary Films, 2012. Film. 

Source: Magnolia Pictures & Magnet Releasing, YouTube Channel

#andre león talley #thegospelaccordingtoandre #fashionicon #influencer

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Andre Leon Talley and Anna Wintor at the Met Gala in 1999

#andreleontalley #thegospelaccordingtoandre #fashion #fashionicon #influencer

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In honor of their birthday...Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen: from Full House to a multi-award winning fashion power duo

Like other millennials I grew up watching Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen on Full House, and in a variety of other television as well as film roles. My personal favorite film featuring the twins is It Takes Two, which actually features a Chanel handbag and other accessories, as well as a Dior wedding gown worn by Clarice Kensington, as observed in the film and detailed in its credits. Some the looks adorned by the Olsen twins, in the film, influenced my own tea party themed photoshoot.

As young tweens the two began ventures in fashion, beauty, and overall lifestyle products at Walmart. I remember purchasing many of their perfumes, accessories, and apparel, and I may or may not still have a few of these perfumes lying around…Today on their birthday I can’t help, but recall the excitement I felt as a child, when put out their apparel and products. It was great having a line that met the needs of those who were younger than teenagers, but older than toddlers. It took many by surprise, myself included, that their interest would go beyond tween and teen years, well into their twenties and early thirties.

Now, they have gone beyond being “celebrity designers.” Their presence in fashion is now undeniable. Their various collections including The Row and Elizabeth & James, induction into the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and the awards they have received from the organization along the way, have amounted to over ten years of experience in the industry, and they have  seemingly firmly established their place in the industry for years to follow.

From designer for the younger set, to their pieces for The Row which is characterized as sleek, chic, minimalistic, timeless, and ageless, as detailed by The Fashion Law,  their evolution from child actresses and entrepreneurs to fashion professionals is highly impressive.

Happy Birthday Mary-Kate and Ashley! Cheers to many more years in the exciting industry of fashion!

Works Consulted and for More Information:

* Zerbo, Julie. “ARCHIVE: How Did Mary-Kate, Ashley Olsen Go from Celebrities to Legitimate Fashion Forces?” The Fashion Law, 1 Aug. 2016, http://www.thefashionlaw.com/home/how-did-mary-kate-ashley-olsen-go-from-child-stars-to-legitimate-designers?rq=Mary-Kate%20and%20Ashley, Accessed 1 June, 2018.

Harper’s Bazaar Staff.”CFDA Awards 2014: The Winners!” Harper’s Bazaar, Hearst, 3 June, 2014. https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a2466/cfda-awards-2014-winners-list/, Accessed 1 June, 2018,

Pieri, Kerry. “CFDA Awards 2012: The Winners!” Harper’s Bazaar, Hearst, 4 June, 2018,  https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a8051/cfda-awards-2012-winners-list-060412/, Accessed 1 June, 2018.

CFDA Editors. “CFDA Fashion Awards in Partnership with Swarovski 2015 Winners CFDA Awards.” CFDA, 2015, https://cfda.com/cfda-fashion-awards/2015#!. Accessed 1 June, 2018.

It Takes Two. Dir. Andy Tennant. Rysher Entertainment, 1995.Film.

*The Business of Fashion Editors. “Mary-Kate & Ashley: Biography.” The Business of Fashion, n.d., https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/mary-kate-ashley-olsen. Accessed 13 June, 2018.

(*) - See these sources for more information about their achievements in fashion. 

“Watch Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s Fashion Evolution.” YouTube, uploaded by POPSUGAR Fashion, 12 June, 2015, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcTCZqfwi2Q, Accessed 13 June, 2018. 

“2018 CFDA Fashion Awards: The Row Wins Accessory Designer of the Year Award.” YouTube, uploaded by CFDA, 5 June, 2018, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94vMlXitgWA, Accessed 13 June 2018. 

“Behind the Seams: The Row - NET-A-PORTER.COM.” YouTube, uploaded by NET-A-PORTER, 9 Nov. 2011, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHMTgaex5eE. Accessed 13 June 2018. 

“Designer Masterclass: The Row- NET-A-PORTER.COM.” YouTube, uploaded by NET-A-PORTER, 14 Nov. 2011, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WelntXT22X8, 13 June, 2018.

The videos below follow their time from film to fashion, including their most recent award from the @cfda. Detailed by NET-A-PORTER below you get glimpse behind their brand’s concept (The Row) and the inspirations behind one of their collections. For more on the Row, check out their collections here.

Source: POPSUGAR Fashion’s YouTube Channel

Source: CFDA’s YouTube Channel

Source: NET-A-PORTER’s YouTube Channel

Source: NET-A-PORTER’s YouTube Channel

@cfda @popsugarfashion

#mary kate and ashley #therow #elizabeth and james #happybirthday #popsugar fashion #netaporter

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Fashionable and Historic Flashbacks: CFDA Edition: Nominees for Womenswear and Menswear Designers for 2018

Womenswear Nominees:

Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen for The Row

Abandoning their careers in television and film, including most recently an opportunity to work on their former show’s reboot Fuller House, Mary-Kate and Ashley surprised many with their active presence in fashion. According to The Fashion Law, the publication feels that the key the success of twins lies with their approach. The Fashion Law and the designers have established that in their fashion pursuits, the duo put the garments and their construction at the forefront, while simultaneously downplaying their presence and the roles that hold at their brands. Nevertheless, the duo seems to have solidified their presence in fashion history upon their induction into the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) during 2009, and subsequent awards from the organization including: Designer of the Year (Womenswear) in 2012 and 2015, and Designer of the Year (Accessories) in 2014.

Marc Jacobs

Jacobs is known for his ability to capture current cultural and societal preferences of young audiences in his work, as detailed by Vogue.com.He has referenced the grunge movement and the subculture of hip-hop in his work, which connects to youth driven element of his brand, as detailed by Vogue.com and Tim Blanks. Georgina O’Hara Callan and Cat Glover note in The Thames & Hudson Dictionary of Fashion and Fashion Designers that his namesake label has transitioned over the years from grungy, in the 90’s, to sophisticated. According to Holly Price Alford, in Who’s Who in Fashion, Jacobs has won multiple awards, with the first one having been received in 1987, which was the Perry Ellis Award for New Talent.

Gabriela Hearst

According to The Business of Fashion, while the label under her name was only originated in 2015, Gabriela Hearst started her original brand Candela during 2004. As detailed by Vogue.com’s Nicole Phelps and Maya Singer, Women’s Wear Daily, The Business of Fashion and Lauren Sherman in two articles, environmental considerations, clean construction, considerate design features, minimalist tendencies, and elements from her Uruguayan culture and upbringing characterize her namesake brand. While her designs make grand usage of neutral shades, they are also perfect helping those afraid of color to ease into slightly bolder shades with more ease and naturalness. As established by The Business of Fashion and WWD, In a short duration, her eponymous line is receiving nominations and recognition for its accomplishments.

Menswear Nominees:

Tom Ford

While Ford his namesake line, for which he is nominated under a 2018 CFDA award, his previous accolades were received well before the Tom Ford brand was launched. As of the 2014 edition of Who’s Who in Fashion, his list of previous awards was already lengthy. Please consult that work for more information on those countless achievements. As detailed by Georgina O’Hara Callan, Cat Glover, The Business of Fashion, Alistair O’Neill,  Holly Price Alford, and Anne Stegemeyer,  Ford is known for being one of the key players in the revival of Gucci’s significance and authority, during the 90’s and early 2000’s. He also provided guidance for Yves Saint Laurent and other brands under the Gucci group, before founding his own label in 2005. During his reign at Gucci, his designs were characterized by their sexual focus with strategically placed cut-outs, and garments that hung nearly hazardly from the body, making the exposure of the body nearly inevitable or guaranteed, as evidenced by Callan, Glover, and the Fashion Channel on YouTube. The Fashion Channel also notes that his looks were also known for their “...retro-70s styling….” While his designs recently produced under the Tom Ford brand , from 2017-2018, still seemingly exude a sense of exploring one’s sexuality, it is done slightly more tamely and has a very sophisticated feel. For examples of his recent works, refer to the VogueRunway.com.

Thom Browne

According to The Business of Fashion, Browne’s talent was recognized and encouraged by American designer and lifestyle icon Ralph Lauren. Prior to his own label, he has worked from Brooks Brothers, Club Monaco, and Giorgio Armani, as detailed by The Business of Fashion, Phyllis G. Tortora, and Sandra J. Keiser.  Like late designer Alexander McQueen, observed in the film The Legacy of Alexander McQueen, his work is less utilitarian and artistic interpretation of dress. Browne as exemplified by M2M.tv in their series Art of Style and short film Thom Browne: A Fashion Fairytale,  is known for looking beyond the conventional, and challenging the boundaries of attire. While tailoring and sculptural plays a key role in his looks, artistic and imaginative elements, aspects from film, and his American heritage, also often play roles in his work as well, also detailed in these works by Made to Measure. As detailed by Browne, the tales surrounding the presentations of his work, aim to enhance his designs. As detailed by Who’s Who in Fashion,  2008 Designer of Year award from GQ magazine,  National Design Award (for his work in fashion) from Cooper-Hewitt, and multiple CFDA awards have been received by Browne.

James Jebbia for Supreme

The products offered and demographic between the two brands, Hermés and Supreme, are highly dissimilar. However, based on information detailed  by The Business of Fashion and Alux.com’s YouTube Channel, Supreme shares similar sales techniques with the prestigious brand Hermés. Both brands thrive due to two aspects in their selling processes, a sense of exclusivity and the anticipation that builds up surrounding the purchases of their products. Supreme sells limited quantities of their products, which contributes to their sense of exclusivity, and the inevitable anticipation that follows such low quantities of items that have a bigger demand. While Hermés Birkin bags also are made in limited quantities, especially unique examples that only have a small amount produced, and have a supposed “waitlist,” which leads to similar responses. Beyond this observation, Supreme has also had several collaborations with highly established brands such as Louis Vuitton and Rei Kawakubo’s brand Comme des Garçons, which is impressive considering the street fashion brand’s humble start detailed by The Business of Fashion and Alux.com’s YouTube Channel. 

Watch the Fall/ Winter 2017-2018 Louis Vuitton x Supreme Collaboration Collection Here

For more information on Hermes, see the two hyperlinks attached to the brand’s name, in the above post. 

Womenswear and Menswear Nominees (Nominated for Both Categories):

Raf Simons for Calvin Klein

The work of Raf Simons for Calvin Klein and his namesake brand strikes an interesting balance, as observed on Vogue.com. There are uniting elements and contrasting examples. While tailoring is the main element of many, if not most of his looks, the way the overall execution of this constructions varies from one direction to its contrasting counterpart. Some looks are very fitted and examples of tailoring, while other variations are more slouchy and comfortable in feel, which are described by Phyllis G. Tortora and Sandra J. Keiser as “...modern proportions....” While there is use of neutral, minimalist colors, typical of the Calvin Klein brand, he strategically adds other colors in both saturated and desaturated variations. The overall feel of his collections are balance of dynamism and unity. According to The Business of Fashion, in addition to his own line, founded in 1994, Simons has previously worked for Jil Sander, from 2005 to 2012, and Dior, starting in 2012 and ending in 2015. During last year’s CFDA awards ceremony, he received the designer of year award for both the womenswear and menswear categories, for his work at Calvin Klein. Interestingly, according to Marc Karimzadeh, for the CFDA website, the only other designer to have experienced this achievement was Calvin Klein.

See examples of his work for Calvin Klein Here (Fall/Winter 2017-2018). 

Virgil Abloh for Off-White 

Virgil Abloh has shifted the role of street fashion from being an influencer to a high-end fashion brand, to being the basis and heart of a luxury line, with his label Off-White, as observed and detailed in the New York Times video “Virgil Abloh is Saving Luxury With T-Shirts / In the Studio.” He essentially has reversed the traditional fashion idea generation steps to design process. According to Abloh, also noted in this video, he adds ideas from couture and higher level ready-to-wear, into the base of street themed attire. However, according to Highsnobiety, his ventures into fashion began prior to the launch of Off-White. His earlier presence in fashion included a quick selling, T-Shirts featuring the Colette name, a retailer based in Paris, connected to jewelry imagery reminiscent of the hip-hop subculture, also detailed by Highsnobiety. One of his highly noteworthy experiences, was his internship with the luxury fashion house Fendi, in the year 2009, also detailed by Highsnobiety. According to The Business of Fashion, his other experiences in fashion include the founding of his first label Pyrex Vision, owning a gallery and boutique facility RSVP Gallery, and working for rapper and Yeezy fashion designer Kanye West. Now, he is set to serve as the artistic director for the menswear collections of Louis Vuitton, also detailed by The Business of Fashion. Overall, as demonstrated in the previously detailed sources and his collections, seen on Vogue.com, Abloh has essentially expanded the definition of what streetwear can constitute, further enhancing its presence and relevance in fashion, in the luxury sector. 

See the fascinating Interview with the New York Times video “Virgil Abloh is Saving Luxury With T-Shirts / In the Studio” Here.

For a complete list of nominees, and winners that have already been determined, read on here.

Vector Image Designed by FreePik

Sources Consulted and For Additional Information:

“15 Things You Didn’t Know About Supreme.” YouTube, uploaded by Alux.com, 6 Aug. 2017, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p45kpQ_OoIg&t=221s. Accessed 3 June, 2018. 

Alford, Holly Price and Anne Stegemeyer. Who’s Who in Fashion. New York and London: Fairchild Publications, 2014. Print. (Marc Jacobs on page 184; Tom Ford on page 145; Thom Browne on page 55).

Blanks, Tim. “Ready-to-wear - Autumn 2017 Marc Jacobs: At Marc Jacobs, Respect on the Streets,” The Business of Fashion, 16 Feb. 2017, https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/fashion-show-review/just-in-marc-jacobs-autumnwinter-2017. Accessed 1 June, 2018.

Callan, Georgina O’Hara and Cat Glover. The Thames & Hudson Dictionary of Fashion and Fashion Designers. New York: Thames & Hudson, 2008. Print. (Marc Jacobs page 138; Tom Ford on page 109). 

“Calvin Klein 205W39NYC.” Vogue, Condé Nast, n.d., https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/designer/calvin-klein, 3 June, 2018.

CFDA Editors. “Ashley Olsen (Member Profile).” CFDA, n.d., https://cfda.com/members/profile/ashley-olsen#!, Accessed 1 June, 2018.   

CFDA Editors. “CFDA Fashion Awards in Partnership with Swarovski 2015 Winners CFDA Awards.” CFDA, 2015, https://cfda.com/cfda-fashion-awards/2015#!. Accessed 1 June, 2018. 

CFDA Editors. “CFDA Fashion Awards in partnership with Swarovski: 2018 Nominees CFDA Awards.” CFDA, 2018, https://cfda.com/cfda-fashion-awards#! , Accessed 3 June 2018.

Fogg, Marnie and Jonathan Saunders. Fashion Design Directory. New York: Firefly Books, 2011. Print. (Marc Jacobs pages 196-197).

Haines, Ashley. “How the Hermes Birkin Bag Reached Icon Status.” Hypebae, Hypebeast Limited, 17 June, 2016,https://hypebae.com/2016/6/history-of-hermes-jane-birkin-bag, Accessed 4 June, 2018. 

Harper’s Bazaar Staff.” CFDA Awards 2014: The Winners!” Harper’s Bazaar, Hearst, 3 June, 2014. https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a2466/cfda-awards-2014-winners-list/, Accessed 1 June, 2018. 

Idacavage, Sara. “Fashion History Lesson: The Iconic Hermes Birkin.” Fashionista, Breaking Media Inc., 17 June, 2016, https://fashionista.com/2016/06/birkin-bag-history-jane-hermes. Accessed 4 June, 2018.

Iredale, Jessica. “The Female Power of Gabriela Hearst.” Women’s Wear Daily, Penske Media Corporation, 19 Mar. 2018, http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/gabriela-hearst-luxury-american-designer-cfda-1202630940/, Accessed 3 June, 2018. 

Karimzadeh, Marc. “The 2017 CFDA Fashion Awards Winners!” CFDA, 6 June, 2017, https://cfda.com/news/the-2017-cfda-fashion-awards-winners#!, 3 June, 2018.

“Off-White.” Vogue, Condé Nast, n.d., https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/designer/off-white, 3 June, 2018.

O’Neill, Alistair. “Ford, Tom.” The Berg Companion to Fashion, edited by Valerie Steele, Berg, 2010, pp. 348-349.

Phelps, Nicole. “Fall 2017 Ready-to-wear Gabriela Hearst.” Vogue, Condé Nast, 14 Feb. 2017, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/gabriela-hearst, Accessed 3 June, 2018.

Phelps, Nicole. “Fall 2016 Ready-to-wear Gabriela Hearst.” Vogue, Condé Nast, 12 Feb. 2016, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/gabriela-hearst, Accessed 3 June, 2018. 

Phelps, Nicole, “Resort 2017 Gabriela Hearst.” Vogue, Condé Nast, 2 June, 2016,https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2017/gabriela-hearst, Accessed 3 June, 2018.

Phelps, Nicole. “Spring 2017 Ready-to-wear Gabriela Hearst.” Vogue, Condé Nast, 13 Sept., 2016. https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/gabriela-hearst. Accessed 3 June, 2018.

Phelps, Nicole. “Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Gabriela Hearst.” Vogue, Condé Nast, 11 Sept. 2015,https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/gabriela-hearst. Accessed 3 June, 2018.

Phelps, Nicole. “Resort 2018 Gabriela Hearst.” Vogue, Condé Nast, 5 June, 2017,https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2018/gabriela-hearst. Accessed 3 June, 2018. 

Pieri, Kerry. “CFDA Awards 2012: The Winners!” Harper’s Bazaar, Hearst, 4 June, 2018,  https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a8051/cfda-awards-2012-winners-list-060412/, Accessed 1 June, 2018. 

“Raf Simons.” Vogue, Condé Nast, n.d., https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/designer/raf-simons, 3 June, 2018.

Sherman, Lauren. “Ready-to-wear- Autumn 2018 Gabriela Hearst: Living the Gabriela Hearst Life.” The Business of Fashion, 13 Feb. 2018, https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/fashion-show-review/living-the-gabriela-hearst-life, Accessed 3 June, 2018.

Sherman, Lauren. “Ready-to-wear- Spring 2018 Gabriela Hearst: At Gabriela Hearst, You Get What You Pay For.” The Business of Fashion, 13 Sept. 2017, https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/fashion-show-review/at-gabriela-hearst-you-get-what-you-pay-for, Accessed 3 June, 2018.

Singer, Maya. “Resort 2016 Gabriela Hearst.” Vogue, Condé Nast, 10 June, 2015, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2016/gabriela-hearst, Accessed 3 June, 2018. 

The Business of Fashion Editors, “Gabriela Hearst: Biography.” The Business of Fashion, n.d., https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/gabriela-hearst-1, Accessed 3 June, 2018.

Business of Fashion Editors. “ James Jebbia Biography.” The Business of Fashion., n.d.,https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/james-jebbia, Accessed 3 June, 2018.

The Business of Fashion Editors. “Raf Simons Biography.” The Business of Fashion, n.d., https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/raf-simons, Accessed 3 June, 2018. 

The Business of Fashion Editors, “ Tom Ford Biography.”  The Business of Fashion, n.d., https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/tom-ford, Accessed 3 June, 2018.

The Business of Fashion Editors, “Thom Browne Biography.” The Business of Fashion, n.d., https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/thom-browne, Accessed 3 June, 2018.

The Business of Fashion Editors. “Biography: Virgil Abloh.” The Business of Fashion, n.d., https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/virgil-abloh, 3 June, 2018. 

Tortora, Phyllis G. and Sandra J. Keiser. The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Fashion. New York and London: Fairchild Publications, 2014. Print.  (Simons, Raf on page 467; Browne, Thom on page 444).

Vogue.com Editors. “Marc Jacobs.” Vogue, Condé Nast, n.d., https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/designer/marc-jacobs, Accessed 3 June 2018.

Wilson, Eric. ‘Marc Jacobs on Hip Hop and Charges of Cultural Appropriation: “’Maybe I’ve Been Insensitive.’”’ InStyle, Meredith Corporation, 7 Aug. 2017, http://www.instyle.com/fashion/marc-jacobs-hip-hop-icons, Accessed 3 June 2018. 

Zerbo, Julie. “ARCHIVE: How Did Mary-Kate, Ashley Olsen Go from Celebrities to Legitimate Fashion Forces?” The Fashion Law, 1 Aug. 2016, http://www.thefashionlaw.com/home/how-did-mary-kate-ashley-olsen-go-from-child-stars-to-legitimate-designers?rq=Mary-Kate%20and%20Ashley, Accessed 1 June, 2018.

“GUCCI by Tom Ford 1995- 2004 by Fashion Channel.” YouTube, uploaded by Fashion Channel, 30 July, 2016, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EgtydvShwvs&t=2s, Accessed 4 June, 2018.

“The Legacy of Alexander McQueen.” Made to Measure (M2M.tv), uploaded by Made to Measure (M2M), n.d.,  https://m2m.tv/watch/the-legacy-of-alexander-mcqueen/films, 4 June, 2018.

“Art of Style: Thom Browne.” Made to Measure (M2M.tv), uploaded by Made to Measure (M2M), n.d., https://m2m.tv/watch/art-of-style-thom-browne/art-of-style, 4 June, 2018.

“Film: Thom Browne: A Fashion Fairytale.” Made to Measure (M2M.tv), uploaded by Made to Measure (M2M), n.d.,https://m2m.tv/watch/thom-browne-a-fashion-fairytale/films, 4 June, 2018.

“Virgil Abloh is Saving Luxury With T-Shirts - In the Studio.” YouTube, uploaded by New York Times, 28 Sept. 2017, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzZsGeyg3Kw, 4 June, 2018.

“Everything You Need to Know About Virgil Abloh.” YouTube, uploaded by Highsnobiety, 29 Jan., 2018, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-wiH7k1iiA&t=20s, 4 June, 2018.

“Louis Vuitton- Fall Winter 2017/2018 Full Fashion Show- Menswear.” YouTube, uploaded by FF Channel, 19 Jan. 2017, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=speYFnMC8Mg, 4 June, 2018.

“Calvin Klein- Fall Winter 2017/2018 Full Fashion Show-Exclusive.” YouTube, uploaded by FF Channel, 10 Feb. 2017, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtRBQEYfIy0&t=30s, 4 June, 2018.

“The Row Fall Winter 2010 Runway.” YouTube, uploaded by The Row Official, 18 Feb. 2010, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgZAc2cM9xM, 4 June, 2018.

“Marc Jacobs - The Story of.” YouTube, uploaded by Marc Jacobs - Fashion TV, 5 Aug. 2013, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9Xg9CvCvqw, 4 June, 2018.

“Sustainability: The New Luxury with Gabriela Hearst- MatchesFashion.com.” YouTube, uploaded by Matchesfashion.com, 25 May, 2017, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAmOt01Qp3A, 4 June,2018.

“Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2016.17- Men’s Looks- New York Fashion Week. ” YouTube, uploaded by Male Model Corp 3, 8 Sept. 2016, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XDWSSgTO5fI, 4 June, 2018.

“Full Episode - Art of Style: Thom Browne.” YouTube, uploaded by M2M-Made to Measure, 9 Apr. 2018, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnP_7ZsIxaA, 4 June, 2018.

“The Row Fall Winter 2010 Runway” 

Source: The Row Official YouTube Channel. 

“Marc Jacobs- The Story Of”

Source: Marc Jacobs/ FashionTV YouTube Channel

“Sustainability” The New Luxury with Gabriela Hearst / MATCHESFASHION.COM”

Source: MATCHESFASHION YouTube Channel 

“Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2016.17 / Men’s Looks / New York Fashion Week”

Source: Male Model Corp 3 YouTube Channel 

“Full Episode- Art of Style: Thom Browne”

Source: M2M YouTube Channel

[trendyclassicandvintage]

In anticipation of this weekend’s royal wedding. Here is some inspiration from royalty of centuries past, ficticious  royals,  and for a twist Prince a member of music royalty. 

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