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[susoriginals]

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[gothhabiba]

hello! i am a longtime huge admirer of your clothing/fashion sense, as well as a longtime backreader of your #victorian and #goth tags. i am really interested in what you've written about Victorian dress, and i am looking to get more into 19th and 20th century clothing for gender + diy craft reasons. i'm so sorry if you've answered similar questions before, but do you have any tips for where a newbie should start researching? either way, thank you thank you, your blog opens my mind wide and brings me much joy and reflection!

General research:

Spend some time searching the 'net, museum websites, and archive sites for fashion plates (such as archive.org—link leads to a date-restricted query for "fashion"—or the Smithsonian—link leads to fashion plates in their image collection). Take note of what you like, as well as which styles correspond to which decade. Karolina Żebrowska has a good rundown of English fashion over the decades.

The undergarments are what does the most work creating the necessary silhouette to make Victorian & Edwardian womenswear fit properly. If you've figured out a decade you want your outfit to draw on, doing a quick search for "[decade] undergarments" should bring up plenty of blog posts, which may or may not cite primary sources (such is the fickle nature of the historical blogosphere). Bustle pads and sleeve supports can be purchased or made; they're both pretty simple, and tutorials abound.

Purchasing clothing:

Reproduction made-to-measure clothing can be readily found on etsy, but can be in the several-hundred USD range. I've had some luck finding vintage reproduction clothing (like, a skirt someone made by hand in the 1980s to a 1900s walking skirt pattern), which tends to be much cheaper.

Men, women, and children wore stays and corsets. As far as I know, Orchard Corset has the cheapest OTR corsets that are good quality and safe to wear. If you get a corset in the style of a specific decade handmade or made to measure, make sure that the seller tells you what the boning material is, what construction the boning is (spiral steel is sturdiest and most flexible), how many bones there are, what the corset material is, &c.—otherwise it's an indication of an unserious maker. Follow general advice for wearing corsets at a waist reduction (lace up slowly, break it in, &c.).

Antique Menswear on youtube gives a lot of good, practical advice for wearing late 19th-century and early 20th-century men's clothing (including where to buy reproductions and how to treat them, how to modify modern shirts to 19th-century standards with basically no sewing skills, &c.).

Actual antique clothing can be found and purchased online or at estate sales—usually in very small sizes, but I've seen Edwardian skirts and petticoats in an XL (also a small size, but...). You can also just simply browse this kind of thing for inspiration and save photos of anything you think you'd like to recreate.

Even clothing that was not "meant" to be worn by re-enactors can be clearly historically influenced (e.g. the huge boom in Victorian- and Edwardian- style blouses in the 1980s), so keep an open mind when shopping for vintage clothing! A lot of 1970s dresses that look "hippy" on their own can look very Victorian with the right undergarments and an updo. A lot of 1980s men's trousers also approach the right silhouette for the 1910s-inspired three-piece suit I'm trying to put together. Witness also the recent trend for big puffed sleeves!

Making or modifying clothing:

Victorian and Edwardian manuals for garment drafting and sewing can be found online—go to archive.org and search for "sewing," "drafting," or "dressmaking," then use the filters on the left to chuse which year(s) you want to see results from. Most of these have patterns that are sort of vibes-based: The work-woman's guide is one manual that claims to have patterns laid out strictly according to a grid.

I don't sew garments, but if Victorian pattern-writing for sewing is anything like it is for knitting, that may not be super useful. People do sell updates and graded 'translations' of antique patterns (which tend to be written in only one size) on etsy and ebay—just make sure from the description that it's 'deciphered' and translated rather than a scan of the original pattern!

One of the easiest things that you can do to add some Victorian or Goth flair to an otherwise plain-looking garment is to add trim. You can knit, crochet, or tat your own trim from Victorian lace-making patterns; purchase antique trim from resale sites; or buy braided or lace trim very cheaply at any craft store. Trim doesn't just have to go around the hems and cuffs of a garment: lace "insertions" between two pieces of fabric, as well as raised geometric patterns over the surface of a garment, are common in 19th-century clothing.

[ID: first image shows a black overdress showing lace insertions between strips of fabric of equal width, creating a striped effect. second image is the back of a black blouse with trim in a geometric design centred around right angles and parallel lines. end ID]

Jewellery (women's and men's):

Actual antique jewellery (including men's jewellery and fastenings) is not as expensive as you might think. Even if you're not willing to spend a lot of time learning what to look for and scouring estate sales for people who don't know or care what they have, late Victorian mass-manufactured costume jewellery often goes for sub-$50 or even $30 prices at auction on ebay (USD, in the US—in my experience it is even more plentiful and cheaper in the UK).

Specifically, I've lucked out with lots ("lot" as in, a bunch of small things being sold together) of "vintage men's accessories" going for $20 or so that contained Victorian cufflinks (in low-karat gold, mother-of-pearl, and jet), collar studs (in low-karat gold and base metals), and shirt studs (in low-karat gold, with garnets and seed pearls, &c.). Searching for lots of accessories is generally a good idea since by and large people do not know what these things are... but if you're willing to spend a little more for something that has been identified and is more likely to still be with its set, use the specific search term for that item (e.g. "antique collar studs").

Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry (though aimed at estate sellers and, if memory serves, full of regrettable pæans to Queen Victoria) is a good reference text to dating antique jewellery. I also recommend Miller's Illustrated Guide to Jewelry Appraising. Both of these texts are available on libgen.

Feel free to ask me follow-up questions if you want more detail on any of these points. As you can see I am perfectly happy to blather away on this topic

#questions #Victorian #Goth #long post / #Anonymous

[heichou-dancho]

A rant to save my own sanity

Something that has become more dominant in the last few years, but especially this half year, is people indirectly criticizing my looks, telling me how I should change them. Nagging me about my lack of effort, that I need to change my hair, use make-up, that I need some sort of style. That I'm wasting my youth.

My current style: T-shirt at home and blouses when I go outside with jeans. The blouses are actually expensive, often older pieces, and I know this is not really a style but,

My current life: Doing housework, cleaning stuff, gardening, caring for a person with dementia mostly unable to move. It's a good week when it doesn't involve diarrhea. Who is the poor idiot who can clean that up? Me.

So fucking excuse me, for not wearing expensive make-up and dressing nicely for a day that involves me throwing soiled diapers away. For not buying 150 Euro dresses that I have no occasion to wear anyway, because I have to be careful about having enough money every month to pay for my health insurance, and leaves nothing for special occasions. For not investing time in my hairdo, because nobody will see it anyway.

"You will feel better if you dress nicely! How will you ever get a good job if you don't know how to dress?"

Oh, screw you. I'm overweight in a world where XL-shirts are tailored for women with A-cup sizes. Buying clothing sucks. I know how to dress for an interview. My problem with getting a job is not knowing how to dress. It's the damn depression, the dyscalculia, and if I win the mental health problem bingo next month, ASD too.

But the worst is ... I have tried to dress more feminine. I want to develop a style, I want a different haircut. I know skin needs some care. But the same people who tell me all the things above, about how they want me to do xyz, will tell me, when I talk to them about trying something I like, that it's wrong. That it's too difficult. That I can't pull it off. It's too much work. It doesn't fit me.

Of course, they still think I should change. But not like that. But if I ask what they think is the better alternative ... I get no answer.

These are not strangers. They're family and friends. People who go to punk concerts. People who use their student loans to buy bio-fruits and rare chinese teas to make their own hair-products.

All the freedom for them. Always conformity and abiding to opaque rules for me.

I'm good enough to haul human feces away (something they told me they "would never be able to deal with"), to help them whenever they need it, but too dumb to try out a vintage haircut and live with the (gasp) risk of it not looking good.

There's no encouragement whatsoever, except from my therapist. Never positive feedback, only another complaint about how I'm not doing it right. Even using a can of fucking hairspray is something I supposedly can't do properly.

But washing the hair of my sick relative in bed is something that only I can do. And nobody will ever complain about that. Or ask if I need help.

And that is what is killing me.

#rl #mental health #style

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