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YASMINE
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WANT TO BE AN ASTRONAUT BUT DON’T HAVE MONEY LIKE ELON MUSK? THEN, LOOK NO FURTHER THAN PETIT PLI
It’s every child’s dream to fly to the moon and play among the stars and that used to be impossible but we’re living in 2022, so the sky is the limit. Okay, maybe that was an exaggeration, but your child can get pretty close to being an astronaut by wearing Petit Pli- a sustainable East London clothing brand inspired by space engineering.
All parents know the hassle of constantly buying new baby clothes and this struggle is exactly what prompted Ryan Mario Yasin to start Petit Pli. It all started when Yasin’s nephew Ryan was born, and he couldn’t fit into the clothes Yasin bought him. Toddlers go through approximately 7 sizes in their first two years and the fashion industry has failed to acknowledge this speed. Fanny Lefebvre, Petit Pli’s design strategist, explains [Yassin was ]“an engineer who worked on satellite structures and applied it to the fashion industry”.
The space-inspired clothing brand isn’t just a clever idea, it’s a crucial step to saving the planet. It’s not surprising that the fashion industry is the second-largest polluter in the World. According to Oxfam fast fashion “produces 80 billion garments each year” along with “35kg of textile waste”.
From the very beginning, sustainability was the driving force behind the brand as Yasin noted that “If extending clothing life by nine months equals a carbon and water reduction of 20-30% each, imagine what ninety years and beyond could do”. Not only will you be saving the planet, but you’ll be saving your money and if that’s not enough to convince you I can try to persuade you a bit more.
Lefebvre states: "Petit Pli is working to support all the people in the supply chain”. Unlike Petit Pli, fast fashion brands exploit their workers. Ever heard of the Rana Plaza disaster? It was the worst industrial incident to hit the garment industry. In April 2013, Rana Plaza- an 8-storey building which housed several shops, a bank and garment factories- collapsed, killing 1,134 people. This tragedy served as a catalyst for fast fashion to change its ethics and sustainability practices.
In 2020, during the peak of the pandemic people were throwing away their face masks which would eventually end up in landfills. According to an Environmental Advances study, a single-use face mask can release 173,00 microfibers per day. To combat this problem, the innovative brand created a reusable face mask which moulds to fit the shape of your face and it was listed in TIME’S 100 Best Inventions of 2020.
People see plastic as the enemy. We live in a world where people are calling for change but we need to be realistic. Is it realistic to live in a plastic-free world? The answer is no because “we live faster, longer and safer lives” because of plastic. It’s people’s misuse of the material which has caused it to pollute our world and ruin marine life. All of Petit Pli’s suits consist of a monofibre construction which makes them easier to recycle and they were designed with “slow consumption” in mind.
Petit Pli hopes to inspire the next generation of designers and innovators to embrace circular design principles. If we take time to think about where we buy our clothes and how we get rid of plastic, then we won’t have to move to Planet B.
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Coming soon: Versace x Dua Lipa
Expect a summer collection that which will have you Levitating
Dua Lipa is a woman who can do it all. She is a singer, dancer, model and now a fashion designer. The New Rules singer has co-designed Versace’s High Summer La Vacanza collection, which is set to debut at Cannes Film Festival on May 23.
The singer took to Instagram to proclaim the collection’s launch: “I am absolutely thrilled to have co-designed the women’s La Vacanza collection for Versace with Donatella. She and I have formed such a strong bond over the years, and I’m so grateful for the support I’ve received from her and the whole team since the very beginning of my career. For her to give me the honour of co-designing this collection and letting all my summer inspirations go wild has been a dream. I am so very proud of this collection and cannot wait to debut it in Cannes.”
Lipa, the 2023 Met Gala c0-chair, has been one of Versace’s dolls since the early days of her singing career. The custom Versace butterfly dress the singer wore at the 2021 Grammy Awards is just one of the many iconic fashion moments the duo has created together. So, you can bet your money that the La Vacanza collection will be an instant hit.
Fashion blogger Corinne Bickel agrees by saying, “Personally I think Dua is a great fit for Versace. She seems to have a close relationship with Donatella and she has worn the brand on numerous occasions. I think her co-creating the collection with Donatella could be fun.”
Bickel adds, "I definitely anticipate seeing lots of colour and fun prints. I know photos of some butterfly prints were released so that will be super cute. I think lots of early 2000s Versace references could be a possibility as well.”
Remember to shop summer’s hottest collection on May 23rd at Versace.com.
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Blokette core: sporty with a feminine twist
Is this new trend a celebration of football culture or class appropriation?
TikTok has given rise to many ‘core’ trends like ballet, fairy, and gorp but the current ‘core’ which has everyone obsessed is blokette core.
Blokette core is a fusion between the masculine, sporty bloke aesthetic with the hyperfeminine coquette style. Independent label Peachy Den recently dropped a new collection inspired by football and blokette core called ‘Glory Days’. Also, German sportswear company Adidas is collaborating with the famed Florentine fashion house Gucci for another collection.
Blokette Core first went viral due to the World Cup frenzy at the end of 2022, and the hype doesn’t seem to be dying down anytime soon as videos tagged #blokettecore have scored an impressive 19.1 million views on Tik Tok.
The components making up the blokette capsule wardrobe include: oversized football jerseys, vintage Adidas track jackets, micro-minis, denim midi-skirts and baggy tracksuits. For footwear, Adidas trainers like Forum Lows, Gazelles or Sambas are another staple in a blokette’s wardrobe.
Instagram’s favourite It girl and model Bella Hadid is rarely seen without her Sambas, which could be the reason behind a surge in Google searches of her favourite shoe. There’s been a 350% surge in Samba searches during the last three months.
“The thing I like about blokette core is the casualness of it, you can’t really go wrong with it,” said LCF fashion student and blokette fan, Kateleigh Tome.
“As I grew up with this style and was constantly surrounded by it, it’s nice to see that it’s still being worn today.”
Finding the middle ground between femininity and masculinity is the key to achieving the blokette look.
For those wanting to give the trend a go, substituting the laces in your Adidas trainers for baby pink ribbons is a good start, or layering a vintage football jersey over a mini skirt works for those aspiring to be a little more daring. Try adding pastel-coloured bows to your hair for the ultimate blokette badge of approval.
On the surface, blokette core seems like a harmless celebration and feminisation of football-lad culture but can it be argued that this latest Tik Tok trend, is an appropriation of the British working-class aesthetic?
Arguably, blokette is 2023’s spin on the 90s-word ‘ladette’. A ladette is recognised as a working-class girl, with a scruffy attitude. She doesn’t care about the confines of gender roles and doesn’t mind taking a seat at the table at some of society’s most masculine hotspots – the grungier the pub, the better.
The look was first demonised when it first made its way to the social scene in the 1990s, but now its return is welcomed with (a fashionista’s) open arms.
If you need further visual representation of the look, BBC series Little Britain (2005) was filled with characters sporting the look. One of its main characters, Vicky Pollard is arguably the most memorable yet negative representation of working-class women in the media: “Whether nicking stuff from the supermarket or swapping her baby for a Westlife CD, Vicky reacts to any accusation with indignant outrage,” reads the BBC’s synopsis of the series.
Pollard could be seen as harmless fun, but the creators behind her character, two privately educated white men, has triggered social media discussion and perception 20-odd years on.
In 2006, YouGov carried out a survey at Edinburgh’s Film Festival, and found that the majority of participants felt that the depiction of Pollard on screen was an authentic depiction of single, working class mums off screen, according to The Guardian.
In addition, survey participants felt that Pollard is a manifestation of a ‘chav’.
‘Chav’ is a derogatory term used to describe lower-class people who stereotypically behave in an antisocial way. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, the government created a moral panic about chavs, which the media helped perpetuate.
Pollard’s iconic TV wardrobe of a Kappa zip-up, fluffy hair scrunchy, flared joggers and trainers, is a lesson in how to dress blokette, despite the character’s controversy.
However, when working-class people dress in a similar way, society arguably deems them as poor, or indeed a chav.
There is undoubtedly a double standard in fashion as clothes that are seen as trendy and cool on a middle-class white person, are typically seen as cheap and ‘chavvy’ on someone who is working class.
Kateleigh Tome explains: “When I was growing up, blokette core type clothing was what my family could afford at the time. Whenever someone walked past wearing a top from Sports Direct and baggy jeans or trackies I would always hear a comment [from passers-by] how that person is a chav and that you can tell they live in a council flat.”
The fashion industry is notorious for taking elements of working-class life such as clothing and making it palatable for higher social classes.
For example, in the early noughties, Burberry’s check pattern became popular amongst the working class and the classist British press was quick to label the check pattern as ‘chav wear’, making Burberry believe their association with the working class was damaging its image.
As a result, Burberry started to fade the Nova check out of its production line and they discontinued the once iconic Nova check cap, which was worn and loved by working-class football fans, to revoke their association with the working class. The Burberry check was now only featured in five per cent of products.
Fast forward to the late 2010s when the middle class and social elites no longer want to appear wealthy anymore, Burberry released its SS18 collection which was a Nova Check paradise. Now, instead of shying away from sport-leisure, brands are embracing the style, through the art of collaborating: In 2022 Gucci and Adidas created a world-dominating collection and for SS23 the two companies are collaborating again for another collection.
Is it as simple to say then, that working-class style is popular in fashion now because rich people don’t want to appear rich? According to LCF fashion student Saida Mahad, people wear working-class clothing: “To feel like they look like those around them,” and Tome agrees.
“Today, especially on social media, middle-class people are one of the main targets for criticism as they’re sort of out of touch. So, I think what happened years ago to working-class people is happening now to middle-class people and they’re trying to look less prestige. It’s all about fitting in.”
On the other hand, social media has allowed the fashion world to become more accessible to the working class and they are now able to influence fashion in ways they haven’t been able to before. So, this could be why recent trends have roots in working-class culture.
Now that the working-class aesthetic is loved by the fashion industry, maybe it’s time the industry starts to appreciate the working class people who are trying to finally break fashion’s seemingly impenetrable class ceiling.
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BALLET CORE: TIKTOK’S NEW OBSESSION & FASHION’S OLD FRIEND
Ballet core has pirouetted its way into the hearts of hyperfeminine girls everywhere. It girls Lily-Rose Depp, Bella Hadid and actress Elle Fanning have championed this trend. Ballet had an undeniable influence on SS23 Fashion week. Ballet references danced their way from the Sandy Liang show in New York to the Simone Rocha runway in London. Videos tagged Ballet core have gained an impressive 171 million views on TikTok and on Pinterest searches for ballet core have jétéd all the way up by 1566%. The Miu Miu ballet flats have gone viral on Tik Tok, and it seems as if every girl has run to their local dance shop to buy themselves a pair of leg warmers and a baby pink leotard.
The main items of ballet core are casual rehearsal accessories such as leg warmers, leotards, and wrap-around cardigans. Ballet flats are another staple in the ballet core wardrobe. It girl Lily Rose Depp, is constantly seen wearing the red Repetto ballet pumps and Bella Hadid and Devon Lee Carlson have become fans of Sandy Liang’s pointe shoe. It could be said that ballet rehearsal wear is 2022’s answer to the athleisure trend which took off in 2016. Ballet core is the perfect median between comfort and femininity. Morgan Timuri- founder of Lei, a ballet-inspired clothing brand states “When I wear feminine ballet-inspired outfits I feel quite comfortable yet subtly stylish… it doesn’t make me feel like I’m too overdressed or underdressed.” Timuri also credits the Oscar-winning film Black Swan for popularising ballet wear: “I think movies becoming popular again such as Black Swan have definitely made ballet core a lot more popular”.
Ballet and fashion have been in a long-term relationship since the early 1900s. The Ballet Russes, a Parisian ballet company founded in 1907, popularised ballet as fashion’s muse. The Ballet Russes brought ballet to the West, and they exposed Europe to a romantic image of Tsarist Russia. Léon Bakst’s luxurious ‘oriental’ costumes for the company further propelled ballet into Western entertainment. His costumes were vibrant and decadent. The master couturier, Paul Poiret, took inspiration from Bakst’s ‘oriental’ costumes in 1909 and created his own ‘oriental’ influenced collection which featured kaftans, headdresses, and the infamous new wave harem pants. The Ballet Russes’ opulent costumes also inspired Yves Saint Laurent’s 1976 Haute Couture collection, Opéras - Ballets Russes.
The reality of ballet is very different from the romanticised image that ballet core portrays. If you look up ballet core on Pinterest, you will enter a thinspo hell. Images of skinny, white bodies will flood your screen and these pictures promote eating disorders and romanticise the struggles ballerinas face. According to Butterfly, an eating disorder charity “The ballet industry strives on structure, comparison, and perfectionism. With a focus on an ideal, thin body type.” The charity found that approximately 12% of dancers struggle with eating disorders and ballet dancers are 10 times more likely to develop eating disorders than non-ballet dancers. When asked about the romanticisation of ballet core and body image representation within the dance industry, ex-ballerina Daisy Ayscough proclaims that “There is some harm in that industry in terms of body image and it’s not ideal that it’s being transferred into the World around us”.
Like most trends that start on Tik Tok, you might think that ballet core isn’t going to stay long but Morgan Timuri thinks otherwise as she explains “I don’t think it will die out because the components of ballet core aren’t anything out of the ordinary and are pretty much staple pieces of any other wardrobe”. Let’s hope ballet and fashion don’t break up anytime soon but the ballet industry needs to go its separate way from its toxic body ideals.
#balletcore#bella hadid#devon lee carlson#miumiu#sandyliang#ballet#ballet russes#YSL#PaulPoiret#lily rose depp#black swan
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SEX SELLS: TOM FORD’S GUCCI
When considering Tom Ford's tenure at Gucci, one is immediately reminded of the slick, sexy, and sinful silhouettes that defined every collection. In the words of American Vogue, Ford's designs are "the fashion equivalent of a one-night stand at Studio 54", perfectly capturing the designer’s hedonistically glamorous aesthetic. When Ford became Gucci's creative director in '94, sales were low, but the designer managed to guide the Florentine company out of this tumultuous time and into a position of eternal glory.
Despite his daring collections, the American designer played it safe with his first show—models wore sweet colours and schoolgirl-esque skirts sticking to Maurizio Gucci’s style. Ford himself told The Cut: “it wasn’t a bad show. It just wasn’t anything”. Tom Ford was so discouraged that he was ready to walk away but thank goodness he didn't quit because the Tom Ford we all love and remember emerged one year later with his Fall 95 collection. This show was everything that his first show wasn’t. Iconic models such as Kate Moss and Shalom Harlow wore unbuttoned satin shirts and cleavage-revealing dresses leaving little to the imagination. The refreshing designs indicated a seductive shift for the brand.
One of the most memorable items from the Tom Ford era was the red velvet suit which was seen in the A/W 1996 collection. Gwenyth Paltrow wore the iconic ensemble to the MTV Awards, which- according to Alessandro Michele- “made her famous”. The red suit has recently had a resurgence as it was seen in the ‘Aria’ show which celebrated Gucci’s 100th birthday. Also, the monochromatic masterpiece made a surprise appearance in Tom Ford’s Fall 2019 collection.
Whoever said sex sells wasn’t lying. Could Gucci’s raunchy campaigns be part of the reason why the brand saw an increase in sales? The Gucci campaigns pushed the boundaries between pornography and art. Arguably, the most iconic and controversial campaign was photographed by Mario Testino and featured top model Carmen Kass with Gucci’s ‘G’ logo shaved into her pubic hair. This advert was so scandalous that the British Advertising Standards Authority investigated the ad after receiving 16 complaints. Luckily, the advert wasn’t banned as the BASA accepted Gucci’s excuse: (Gucci is) "known for brand leadership and cutting-edge imagery" and that the ad was "intended to be the ultimate ironic pun for a sexy brand in a logo-led age".
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DIGITAL DYSTOPIA
Who said the apocalypse couldn’t be glamorous?
People say that the best gifts are unexpected, something that rings true as Marc Jacobs released his Spring 22 collection unannounced on Instagram. The American designer presents a continuation of his apocalyptic vision from the AW 2021 collection.
The 10 A-list models look desirable in Jacob’s dystopian attire, consisting of monochromatic clothing such as obnoxiously oversized puffer jackets paired with ball gown length denim skirts. There is a DIY element to it all which isn’t new to the fashion industry- e.g., ‘make do and mend’ from the 40s and the resurgence of the crochet trend- but it is refreshing in a society that values overconsumption and trends. The plastic paillette dresses from the previous season took on a new life as belly chains and skin-baring tops showing the public that the apocalypse can be glamorous and sexy. The matching eye makeup adds to the grunge aesthetic of the collection whilst also making the models look like a 1960s sci-fi dream.
The running ‘end of time’ theme of the collection mirrors the destruction of the world since 2020. Whilst many thought post lockdown dressing would consist of the glitz and glamour of the 1920s, the new Marc Jacobs collection would beg to differ. However, the flashy paillettes and makeup suggest that within the dreariness of living in a COVID world, there will always be colourful aspects of life.
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