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thelibraryghost · 2 months
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A Young Person's Introduction to Early 20th-Century Western Fashion
am i hip with the kids yet
General information Dotschkal, Janna. "1920's." FOUND. October 21, 2016. English Heritage. "Fashion Through History: Episode 3 – 1930s." YouTube. April 16, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of Standardized Sizes in Womens Fashion and Why They FAILED." YouTube. May 16, 2021. Vintagebursche. "100 Years of Classic Menswear - and what we can learn from each decade." YouTube. February 29, 2020. Zebrowska, Karolina. "1920s Fashion Is Not What You Think It Is." YouTube. May 20, 2018.
Accessories Cox, Abby. "Flappers, Y2K, & Capitalism are Why Women "Don't" Have Pockets." YouTube. January 12, 2023. Cox, Abby. "The Disappointing Truth On Why We Don't Wear Hats Anymore..." YouTube. December 18, 2022. Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of the Iconic Cloche Hat: Making 1920s Fashion." YouTube. September 18, 2022. Rudolph, Nicole. "When Hats were Illegal: Sewing a Goth Edwardian Hat." YouTube. February 21, 2021. Sheehan, Sarah. "Neo-Egyptomania." PatternVault. December 31, 2022. Zebrowska, Karolina. "Why Did We Stop Wearing Hats?" YouTube. April 28, 2020.
Cosmetics Banner, Bernadette. "Making and Testing a Victorian Skincare Routine." YouTube. April 8, 2023. English Heritage. "1930s Makeup Tutorial | History Inspired | Feat. Amber Butchart and Rebecca Butterworth." YouTube. December 18, 2018. Holland, Evangeline. "On How to Be Lovely." Edwardian Promenade. April 15, 2010. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Controversial History of Color Season Analysis." YouTube. November 4, 2023.
Fabrics Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of Elastic." YouTube. July 4, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "Wearing Overalls to Boycott Fashion Greedflation? Weird History of 1920." YouTube. March 16, 2024.
Gowns and formal wear Banner, Bernadette. "I Redesigned Mary Poppins' Jolly Holiday Dress Based on REAL Edwardian Lingerie Gowns." YouTube. February 20, 2021. Banner, Bernadette. "I Remade Mary Poppins’ Dress to be Actually Edwardian." YouTube. July 9, 2022. Cox, Abby. "Alexander McQueen & the Patriarchy Problem in Modern Fashion." YouTube. October 20, 2023. Cox, Abby. "What Makes a Gown Haute Couture (like House of Worth) in Victorian and Edwardian Eras?" YouTube. September 19, 2021. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "An Edwardian Woman's Fashion Evolution." YouTube. June 4, 2022. Oakes, Leimomi. "Terminology: what is a lingerie dress or lingerie frock? (and blouse, and skirt)." The Dreamstress. July 21, 2018. Rudolph, Nicole. "Stop Idolizing Coco Chanel: a shocking history of theft." YouTube. January 13, 2024. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Truth about the Fringed Flapper: Making 1920s Evening Dresses." YouTube. November 6, 2022. Vintagebursche. "1920s Theme Party - How to dress." YouTube. December 9, 2023. Zebrowska, Karolina. "1920s Fashion Encyclopedia, Pt 1: Daywear." YouTube. November 27, 2019.
Hair care and styling Banner, Bernadette. "I Tried Following a Real Edwardian Hair Care Routine." YouTube. May 12, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "Getting Dressed in the Edwardian Era / Gibson Girl Hairstyle Tutorial." YouTube. June 12, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "Titanic-era Hair Tutorial // Getting Dressed in the 1910's." YouTube.September 4, 2020. SnappyDragon. "Historical hair myths debunked : How often should you wash your hair—daily shampoo or no shampoo?" YouTube. August 12, 2022. Zebrowska, Karolina. "Weird Edwardian Beauty Tips." YouTube. February 11, 2017.
Laundry and starching Banner, Bernadette. "Ok but how did the Edwardians WASH these dresses?" YouTube. August 3, 2022.
Outerwear Cox, Abby. "Athleisure: Destroying Fashion & the Environment." YouTube. January 18, 2024. Rudolph, Nicole. "150 years of Masc Women causing a Moral Panic." YouTube. June 17, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of Jeans, T-shirts, and Hoodies: Time Travel 101." YouTube. March 20, 2022. Zebrowska, Karolina. "SPRING/SUMMER FASHION TRENDS REVIEW but it's 1936 (ft. original fabric samples!)." YouTube. April 22, 2022.
Shoes Rudolph, Nicole. "I Made Witchy Edwardian Shoes by Hand!" YouTube. March 14, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "Making 100 year old Comfy Slippers: Free Pattern!" YouTube. December 30, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Myth of Tiny Feet "Back Then"." YouTube. September 26, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "The True History of Stiletto Heels : the battle between Ferragamo and Dior." YouTube. August 26, 2023. Zebrowska, Karolina. "Why Is No One Talking About 1930s Shoes?" YouTube. September 15, 2020.
Undergarments Banner, Bernadette. "1903 Patented Bustle Pad Reconstruction." YouTube. June 8, 2019. Banner, Bernadette. "Achieving That Classic Edwardian Shape: Reconstructing a 1902 Bust Bodice." YouTube. April 16, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "So What are Guimpes Anyway? // Examining Antique Edwardian Guimpes." YouTube. August 21, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "They Wore Corsets in the 1920's?!" YouTube. January 29, 2022. Rudolph, Nicole. "Did Brassieres End the Corset?" YouTube. February 28, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "Dressing in Edwardian Clothing: Undergarments and Layers of 1907." YouTube. November 1, 2020. Rudolph, Nicole. "How Flappers got their Figure: the 1920s Silhouette." YouTube. July 10, 2022. SnappyDragon. "How pin-up photos fooled dress history : the making and marketing of lingerie pictures." YouTube. April 1, 2023.
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ABSOLUTE BANGER OF A VIDEO BY SNAPPYDRAGON
Everyone in the historical costuming and historical drama fandom needs to watch this, especially goyim.
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Assista a "The Suffragettes were RACIST : Political problems in womens rights and historical costuming" no YouTube
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brightgnosis · 4 months
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“The Suffragettes were RACIST: Political problems in women’s rights and historical costuming” by SnappyDragon (featuring Ora Lin)
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jennystahl · 9 months
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how do people watch bernadette banner and karolina zebrowska they are insufferable
edit: rachel maksy as well
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neechees · 1 year
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Some historical clothing enthusiasts who AREN'T White because I'm sick of seeing White girls in 19th century clothes:
SewRena: specializes in 1950s American sewing & clothing, she is Black
Cosplay Queen: Chinese youtuber who does stuff like makeup, Hanfu of various time periods, Chinese classical dance, & cosplay. Also does a lot of Mukbang vids
MochiHanfu: another Chinese youtuber who specializes in Hanfu
NamiSparrow: Indian cosplayer who has some vids up about historic Indian fashion & sewing
Notyourmommashistory: Black reenactor who does vids on 1800s fashion, slavery in the 1800s, racism, vintage clothing, & also some cool video essays.
Cheon-Shik Yang: he is a Korean tailor who talks about Hanbok & traditional Korean clothing
Fashion & Culture with Kingsley: focuses a bit more on contemporary African clothing & fashions & geared towards fashion designers, but inspired by traditional African designs (from different countries and cultures, such as Ghana, Ethiopia, & Senegal) and clothing & a bit of historic ones as well.
The Couture Courtesan: mixed race Asian reenactor and historical fashion enthusiast who talks about fashions of various time periods, as early as the Tudor era up to the 1910s.
Eccentrik: Jamaican youtuber with vids focusing on fashion, & in particular either vintage fashion (I believe 1940s-60s), pinup fashion & hair & makeup, or vintage inspired sewing
Ora Lin: a nonbinary tailor (who I believe is Asian), they make videos about sewing & historical fashion of different periods & places, including Regency England, Jin & Ming dynasty China, the Edwardian era, & more.
Honorable mention: Snappydragon not a person of color, but she is Jewish & focuses on European historical fashion & Jewish historical fashion (including time periods the Jewish population would not be considered "White")
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trishmishtree · 1 year
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So I made another c0rset, and it comes stuffed with fancy pillows
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Apparently I am now on a quest to recreate an early Edwardian summer dress/historybound...in the middle of winter. The last time I made a c0rset, it was an under bust design meant to go under my modern clothes, and I drafted it myself--so this time I decided to be lazy and used Aranea Black’s Tulip c0rset pattern with a few minor alterations for fit.
The great thing about these straight front c0rsets is that they aren't actually supposed to fit to the contours of your body. As long as the waist size is right for you, you can pad out the bust and hips to fill out the areas of the c0rset that you're too small to fill. A foundational undergarment with wider hips and a lower, fuller bust instantly creates the illusion of a smaller waist, even if (like me) you aren’t able to lace down more than an inch before getting too close to tight lacing territory.
I made it in size D (which gives the c0rset a 23 5/8" waist, which means a ~2.5" lacing gap on me), but the cotton twill I used must’ve stretched a bit because it ended up closing all the way in the back again (but I did put in a waist tape so maybe I used a twill tape that stretches?). Come to think of it, I really should have started with size C instead. I ended up having to shave off an inch and a half off the two back pieces to get back some semblance of a lacing gap, and then let out 3/8" from one of the front seams where I have a weird rib that sticks out more on the right compared to the left (thanks, scoliosis) and only makes its presence known when I wear tight clothing that contains plastic whalebone.
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^Closeup of some the flossing detail because this is the first time I've actually been happy with the result.
The fashion layer is an iridescent silk shantung that my phone camera keeps trying to make appear purple. It's made from black warp threads and cornflower blue weft threads and actually looks a lot more blue in real life. (Also, my skin is not this pink irl either. I think my phone camera just tints everything slightly pink.)
Also, here's the bust improver:
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I self drafted the pattern pretty much directly from the extant in the LACMA collection. It’s stuffed with fabric scraps that I save specifically for stuffing, but it could still use a little more volume since the stuffing must have flattened down a bit from being worn. It’s probably going to need an entire extra inch of thickness, if the discrepancy in the lacing gap in the c0rset is anything to go by.
Speaking of padding, at the moment, the hip spring in the c0rset isn't quite up to Edwardian standards because it's just my natural hip spring since I haven't gotten around to making the hip pad yet. But I did take a page out of Snappydragon's book and made the sides of the hips adjustable to accommodate a hip pad in the future. Also, not entirely sure when I’m going to make the hip pad because everything I’ve read has advised against using fabric scraps for those because they’re too heavy, so I guess I’m going to have to invest in some cotton fiber fill.
As always, yes I can breathe. I think I got lucky and this c0rset pattern just works really well with my personal skeletal structure with minimal adjustments. Nothing is digging in in uncomfortable places. That said, this is not going to be something I'll wear in my daily life because the silhouette is just too exaggerated for me to get away with, and it doesn’t really provide that much back support since it is so loose around the entire circumference of my bust. 
Update: I did end up adding a lot more stuffing to the bust improver and now the c0rset actually laces up evenly, so yay
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snappydragonsclaw · 4 months
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you can read it here:https://www.deviantart.com/snappydragons/art/WereWolves-au-new-Member-Of-The-Pack-1003760180
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handweavers · 2 years
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do you have any good costubers recs?
love minjalinjee, claire yixuan zhang, elin abrahamsson, snappydragon, engineering knits, rachel maksy
need more brown & black costuber recs, i'm not very familiar with any and i'd like to change that
i do watch bernadette, m/rgan donner, ang/la clayton, and n/cole rudolph even if they and/or their friends get on my nerves but the ones in the first list i don't have any negative feelings about lol
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barbiegirldream · 1 year
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Did you happen to watch snappydragon's most recent video about corset's in period dramas? bc I just watched it and it had so many good points about storytelling and how movies/shows use the corset as a plot device basing it on assumption the public has about corset nowadays instead of what they actually were
I haven’t heard of this channel ! I will check it out. I was watching some Bernadette Banner videos and it got me thinking.
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thelibraryghost · 9 days
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A Young Person's Guide to 18th-Century Western Fashion
unabridged version at blogspot
General info Cox, Abby. "I Wore 18th-Century Clothing *Every Day for 5 YEARS & This Is What I Learned (Corsets Aren't Bad!)." YouTube. May 10, 2020. Cullen, Oriole. “Eighteenth-Century European Dress.” In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2004. Glasscock, Jessica. "Eighteenth-Century Silhouette and Support." In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2004. Accessories Banner, Bernadette. "Women's Pockets Weren't Always a Complete Disgrace | A Brief History: England, 15th c - 21st c." YouTube. April 10, 2021. Colonial Williamsburg. "#TradesTuesday: Men's Accessories." YouTube. June 13, 2021. Murden, Sarah. "The Georgian era fashion for straw hats." All Things Georgian. December 6, 2018. Cosmetics & hygiene Cox, Abby. "I Followed an 18th-Century Moisturizer & Sunscreen Recipe & it kinda worked??." YouTube. February 21, 2021. Cox, Abby. "We tried making *5* different 250 year old rouge (blush) recipes || [real] regencycore makeup." YouTube. August 29, 2021. JYF Museums. "Hygiene in the 18th Century | From the Farm to the Army." YouTube. August 21, 2021. Décor Heckscher, Morrison H. “American Rococo.” In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2003. Munger, Jeffrey. “French Porcelain in the Eighteenth Century.” In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2003. Formal wear SnappyDragon. "This dressing gown changed fashion forever : the feminist history of going out in loungewear." YouTube. April 15, 2022. Stowell, Lauren. "The Many Types of 18th Century Gowns." American Duchess. March 15, 2013. Zebrowska, Karolina. "Cottagecore Style Is Much Older Than You Think." YouTube. June 30, 2021. Hair care Cox, Abby. "I made 250-year-old Hair Products Using Original Recipes (and animal fat...)." YouTube. November 7, 2021. Cox, Abby. "I tried a 300-year-old hair care routine for a year & this is what I learned (it's awesome!)." YouTube. January 23, 2022. Cox, Abby. "What's the Deal with 18th Century Wigs? (and why Bridgerton really messed this up)." YouTube. June 1, 2023. Laundry Cox, Abby. "Making 300 Year Old SLIME for Laundry Day." YouTube. June 15, 2023. Townsends. "Historical Laundry Part 2: No Washing Machine, No Dryer, Hit It With A Stick?" YouTube. June 3, 2019. Outer- & working-wear JYF Museum. "Getting Dressed | Clothing for an 18th Century Middling Woman." YouTube. March 18, 2021. Major, Joanne. "The practicalities of wearing riding habits, and riding ‘en cavalier’." All Things Georgian. March 12, 2019. Rudolph, Nicole. "What did Pirates ACTUALLY Wear? Fashion at Sea in the 18th c & Our Flag Means Death Costumes." YouTube. May 8, 2022. Shoes Chin, Cynthia E. "Martha Washington's Shoes." George Washington's Mount Vernon. No date. Murden, Sarah. "18th-century shoes." All Things Georgian. December 15, 2015. Rudolph, Nicole. "Real 18th century Shoes? Historical Shoemaker Examines an Antique." YouTube. December 13, 2020. Textiles Cox, Abby. "18th Century Printed Cotton Do's & Don't's." American Duchess. December 23, 2019. Stowell, Lauren. "Fabrics for the 18th Century and Beyond." American Duchess. June 14, 2021. Townsends. "Oil Cloth - Waterproof Coverings for Your Campsite." YouTube. July 30, 2018. Undergarments Major, Joanne. "Quilted Petticoats: worn by all women and useful in more ways than one." All Things Georgian. November 20, 2018. Rudolph, Nicole. "Making 18th century Stays for the Ideal Body Shape : Historical Undergarments." YouTube. August 12, 2023. SnappyDragon. "RUMP ROAST : Ranking historical fashion's wildest fake butt pads." YouTube. October 27, 2023. Townsends. "Sewing Histories' Most Popular Garment - The Fabric Of History - Townsends." YouTube. September 3, 2022.
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dianaraven · 2 years
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Hey, I really loved your ‘writing Jewish characters’ ask. Do you know if there’s anywhere I can read more about the do’s and don’t’s, media studies, etc.? Just curious and wanted to see! Thanks!!
Hi! Sorry this took so long, nons. Unfortunately I can't think of any, but I'm not huge on listening to other peoples' media studies 🙃 lol. You can always feel free to ask, though (me or whomever). The jumblr community is pretty open and willing.
If you would like more specific help on one thing or another, there are plenty of Jewish sensitivity readers over at @sensitivityreaders , of which I am one if you want to dm me.
One thing I do know though, is that we Jews love talking about ourselves so I suggest you google Jewish youtube creators, I'm sure there are plenty that are more media analysis focused. Of course, there are always Jewish blogs and newspapers (many of which are accessible online, ofc be aware of any cultural/religious biases, I'd suggest reading columns from multiple groups and take everything you read with a grain of salt, you know, two jews three opinions and all that).
If you're looking for historical stuff I do recommend SnappyDragon on youtube who does historical costuming and has a few videos on tropes, and historical Jewish culture etc.
@/koshercosplay also might be able to help. Their blog is full of Jewish/fandom wonderfulness.
But yeah, again, feel free to reach out on tumblr if you have specific questions. Many Jews on here are willing to answer questions.
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Assista a "The Suffragettes white Edwardian dresses and sashes were political genius. They were also racist." no YouTube
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transgender-er · 2 years
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It's almost Halloween, which means that that post about witch hats being based on British Alewives is going to be making the rounds again.
It's not true. There's no proof, aside from a single (comical) illustration of a single alewife, who is supposed to be dressed as just a generally older woman.
The witch hat is most likely a fusion of the hats Quaker women used to wear, and the hats that 13th century German Jews were made to wear as identifying dress (Judenhut)
If you don’t believe me, Abby Cox and V from SnappyDragon have both made wonderful videos on the topic, with many a source.
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sab-cat · 1 year
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Thanks Kanye, now can we get Jewish representation? Jews and antisemitism in period dramas
Time for Jewish representation in period dramas! Go to https://establishedtitles.com/SnappyD... and help support the channel. They are now running a massive Black Friday Sale, plus 10% off on any purchase with code SnappyDragon. Thanks to Established Titles for sponsoring this video!
Thanks to Kanye West and his blatant anti-semitism, the internet seems ready to talk about the issues facing the Jewish people. As a historical costumer, I want to know : When are we getting good Jewish representation in movies and historical shows? I don't mean Jewish stereotypes, antisemitic dogwhistles, Holocaust misinformation, or non Jewish actors in Jew-face. I want costume dramas that actually show Jewish history and Judaism, because Jews have been a part of history for nearly as long as history has existed. And no, sorry, The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel doesn't make up for every other show that's got Jewish people wrong, and it has its problems too!
Studying fashion history while Jewish can be really upsetting, because I'm running into antisemitism all the time. It can suck all the fun out of dress history, to only see the most traumatic moments in Jewish history shown! Historical movies and historical shows aren't helping by refusing to include Jews or accurate Jewish history. Jewish representation in TV is fraught with problems, and historical dramas are no better. Blatant anti-semitism has become rarer in these shows, but antisemitic dog-whistles like in Red Joan are still an issue. So are Jewish characters whose Judaism is invisible, like in Downton Abbey. Too many Jews in period dramas are only around for one episode, which will never make up for the lack of Jewish main characters. WWII dramas may be willing to show Jewish history, but it's always the most upsetting period in Jewish history and the Jews never get to be the heroes of their own stories. And even in The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel and many other shows that center on historical Jews, it's rare that Jewish actors are cast. Sometimes non-Jewish actors will even wear fake noses to play Jews, a practice called Jew-Face. And too many shows forget Jews exist entirely, pretending to historical accuracy when it's actually innacurate to exclude Jews from the settings of many popular period dramas.
Let's use Kanye West's antisemitism to wake us up to all the ways that antisemitism is a real problem, including in historical costuming and in the shows and movies we love. Jews and Judaism, just like all other marginalized peoples, deserve better representation that we're getting
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heir-of-the-chair · 2 years
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Do you know of SnappyDragon on YouTube? She's a historical costumer and a lot of her costuming videos focus on Jewish history; seems right up your alley
https://youtube.com/c/SnappyDragon
I think I’ve heard of her but I haven’t actually seen any of her videos I’ll have to check her out!
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