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#Photomatix 4
seabeck · 9 months
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First off, I love your blog and admire the lifestyle you've made for yourself. 😊
Do you have any advice for getting into real estate photography if you don't have a portfolio? I enjoy taking photos and I have a nice camera that I haven't picked up in a long time, but I'm not sure what all the job entails. I'm not sure if it offers the sort of freedom I want without having eggs in multiple baskets, ya know?
My spouse said to me that judging by the photos you see when apartment shopping, they assume I'm qualified (lol), but I don't know the ins and outs of my camera like I could if I were serious. Of course there's obviously people like yourself who are actual artists in their craft, but do you need to know a lot before you get into it?
Thanks! ❤️
So I was already very experienced with my camera when I applied for the real estate photography job(s) I work, I knew how to bracket, change the exposure/WB, etc. From there I just had to learn the way they wanted things photographed (from the corner, 4' tripod, 5 shots 2 ev). I didn't have a real estate photography portfolio but since I knew how to use a camera and had the proper gear, they were desperate to hire me.
There is a bit of freedom, I get to travel a lot and set my own schedule, but I still have to photograph things the way they want. Personally, this is perfect for me. I still get to do some artistic shots, especially if the homeowner requests them, but I know what is expected of me (unlike with portrait photography which can be so open ended and ambiguous, also working 1 on 1 with people - oof).
Anyways you should know how to bracket, how to edit those photos (I personally recommend Photomatix - LR + PS suck at HDR), how to change the white balance as needed (bathrooms with no windows tend to look very yellow). It's also ideal if your camera has a virtual horizon (mine is horizontal only but I am very good at getting the vertical one perfect by hand). Then from there it's just knowing basic photography things like aperture etc. My job doesn't require a flash but some companies will (Flambient is a very popular way to shoot photos, IMO it looks like dogshit but people like it)
Anyways I hope that helps and isn't too rambly
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vlkphoto · 1 month
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Ellora Cave 11 Do Taal – Buddha on lion throne .. (2 / 5) [3 / 4]
Sculpture of Buddha. Ellora, MH.
Cave 11 is usually overlooked after the splendor of Cave 10, and because it looks just like any of your modern day brutalist dormitories. It is called Do Taal (two floors) because the ground floor had been buried and was only excavated in 1876.
HDR put together using Photomatix.
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fudeen-note · 1 year
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accidentally added red.
このページの Photograph はこちらをクリック (click here)
 
 
hall crabapple- accidentally added red to the white powder
    Translated the Haiku made by YOSA Buson
 
海棠や白粉に紅をあやまてる            与謝 蕪村
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
------------------------  玄宗皇帝が,ほろ酔い機嫌で寝ていた楊貴妃を起しに行ったところ,まだ眠そうな顔をした楊貴妃が現れた。  それを見た玄宗皇帝は,「海棠(かいどう)の眠り未(いま)だ足らず」と言った。  蕪村の眼に映った花海棠は、中国の故事を彷彿とさせたのでしょう。  そんな印象を僅かながらでも写し撮るべく 1 EV の差で 5 枚現像して、high dynamic range image として仕上げました。
 
 
 
☆ Shooting Data ------------------------ ○ camera : OLYMPUS TG-4 ○ focal length : 11 mm ( compared to 35mm format : 61 mm ) ○ shooting mode : Program AE ○ Tv ( Shutter Speed ) : sec.1/125 ○ Av ( Aperture Value ) : F3.6 ○ ISO speed rate : 1,600
 
 
☆ Preprocess ( RAW ) ------------------------ ○ preprocessor : DxO PureRAW 2 ver. 2.6.1.18 ○ method : Deep PRIME ○ DxO optical correction :  whole lens sharpness : on  lens distortion correction : on ○ output format : DNG
 
 
☆ Developing Data ( RAW ) ------------------------ ○ development : RAW image developed by SILKYPIX Developer Studio Pro 11.0.5.0 ○ taste : fudeen's special ○ exposure compensation ( by camera ) : -1/3 EV ○ exposure compensation ( by developer ) : +1 EV ○ total exposure compensation : +2/3 EV ○ white balance : setting by shooting [ 4,841 K ] ○ tone adjustment : strong contrast ○ saturation : manual [ 1.09 / 8.0 ] ○ color profile : V4 compatible ○ color representation : film color Velvia ○ sharpness : pure detail  edge emphasis [ 18 / 100 ]  detail emphasis [ 75 / 100 ]  black spotted outline control [ 25 / 100 ] ○ noise reduction : fine detail  false color control : [ 30 / 100 ]  fringe removal : [ 10 / 100 ]  noise aligned : [ 20 / 100 ]  noise removal : [ 75 / 100 ]  dark side noise reduction [ a little strong ] ○ highlights controller : initial value  color / brightness emphasis [ 25 / 100 ]  saturation / hue emphasis [ 70 / 100 ]  bright portion compensation [ 50 / 100 ]  dynamic range extension [ +5.0 / 6.0 EV ] ○ development setting :  type of file : TIFF  pixel size : original  match the long side direction : on  develop result settings : for reprocessing with silkypix ( 16 bits)  record exif information : on
 
 
☆ Exposure Blending Data ( HDRI ) ------------------------ ○ exposure blending by Photomatix Pro 6.3 ○ style : soft 4 ○ EV spacing : 5 images, -2, -1, ±0, +1, +2 ○ tone mapping method : exposure composition / natural ○ strength for tone mapping [ -5 / ±10 ] ○ exposure balance [ -3.5 / ±10.0 ] ○ shadow contrast [ 0.0 / 10.0 ] ○ local contrast [ 0.0 / 10.0 ] ○ white clip [ ±0.0 / ±10.0 ] ○ black clip [ ±0.0 / ±10.0 ] ○ color settings : image color ○ saturation [ +5.0 / ±10.0 ] ○ color temperature [ ±0.0 / ±10.0 ] ○ brightness [ +10.0 / ±10.0 ] ○ blending / opacity [ 0 / 100 ] ○ contrast : low contrast ○ sharpness : low
 
 
☆ Location & Target ------------------------ ○ location : 四ツ谷界隈 ○ target : 花海棠 ------------------------
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petersclarke15 · 1 year
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kiloptrusted · 2 years
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Photomatix pro 2.5
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You can also download Corel draw x8 Serial Number 2018. CorelDraw Graphics Suite X6 Serial core comprises similar additional features which are pointed out below.Fortunately, I found an outstanding tutorial online at that helped me get the most out of Photomatix Pro.CorelDraw Graphics Suit X6 Keygen, + Serial Number freeload Full Version I knocked the app down a half a star because the interface is kinda clunky and fugly (the dev should just copy Lightroom's interface), and because the user manual does not help at all to explain the basic concepts of tone-mapping, fusion merging and deghosting (it simply explains what each slider and adjustment does). The tone mapped image is ready for printing while showing the complete dynamic range captured. 2.Tone Mapping: Reveal highlight and shadow details in an HDR image created from multiple exposures. Exposure merging is a bonus feature in Photomatix Pro that isn't included in most other HDR apps. Photomatix offers two ways to solve this problem: 1.Exposure Blending: Merge differently exposed photographs into one image with increased dynamic range. I have not yet used any of the Exposure Fusion options (these are not HDR - they simply merge multiple exposures, which is useful for night photography, for example). I plan to create a few of my own presets as there aren't that many built-in presets that provide a natural or realistic looking result. My approach is to find a preset that provides a reasonable result and tweak the settings from there. I have used both the Contrast Optimizer and Detail Enhancer tone-mapping methods with good results. The raw file conversion in Photomatix Pro is okay, but even the dev admits it is not as good as Lightroom/ACR or other high-end raw converters.
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I export images from Lightroom using the plugin supplied with Photomatix Pro (if you use ProPhoto RGB in Lightroom, check the dev's website for instructions as to how to preserve this colour profile on export). The selective deghosting feature in Photomatix Pro also works very well, better than any automatic deghosting methods that I tried. Photomatix Pro did as well as Photoshop CC (which is supposedly the best at aligning images), and better than other HDR apps, including one that makes a big deal about its ability to align handheld images. I mostly shoot sequences of 3 and 5 images handheld, so auto alignment is a critical feature. It produced the best results, offers the most features and was the easiest to use (after some learning time). I tried several HDR apps (and the Merge to HDR Pro feature in Photoshop CC) before deciding to buy Photomatix Pro. Photomatix Pro 6.3.1 Multilingual macOS Photomatix Pro merges photographs taken at varying exposure levels into a single HDR image that reveals both.
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twistedtrust · 2 years
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Photomatix pro 3.0 3
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PHOTOMATIX PRO 3.0 3 FREE
I always like a natural look so I tend to shy away from heavily saturated, gaudy looking images. When I’m not doing my IT work or chasing my kids around I really enjoy working on HDR images.
At the end a slight dodge in the trees.
Another level layer for setting the global RGB.
Another level layer for setting the red and blue channels.
Another level layer decreasing highlights and increasing the mid point.
Then I added a level layer for setting the black point.
Open it in Photoshop and processed it using 1 st Color Efex 4 (white neutralizer tonal contrast and slight fog in the foreground).
I used Photomatix to merge the raw files with deghosting and chromatic aberrations corrections save the tonemapped image as a 16 bit Tiff file.
I love spending time in image processing. Great fan of HDR, as this method show all the beauty of the world.
Finally, back in Photoshop, I applied an oil paint filter to the image to give it that painterly look.Īmateur photograph since 40 years, from darkroom to digital dark room.
Next, I opened the image up in onOne’sPerfect Effects 4, sharpened the image, added a vignette, and a simple white border to give it even more pop.
Then I opened the image in Photoshop, and removed the noise through Topaz Denoise.
Adjusted HDR image in Camera Raw (amped up the vibrance and saturation) and then applied a modest S Curve in levels to bring out even more vibrancy in the image.
It was taken from a hotel balcony in Naples, FL as the sun was rising I just started this photography hobby in September of 2012 and this photo I contributed for Concert 13 was one of the first photos I took with the K5. I shoot with a Pentax K5 and my favorite lens is a 31mm prime lens. I am a novice photographer that enjoys manipulating photos to express feeling. I would say all were successful, here are the submissions starting with the man who provided the brackets! I experimented quite a bit to obtain that workflow and thought it would be a good idea to try and get people out of their comfort zone and try experimenting a bit more with their workflow. This combination of control in the local areas gives me a great look and starting place for the rest of my HDR post processing. When I post process I use the Curves adjustment layer 4 times, twice for the highlights, once for the Midtones and once for the shadows. The rules were pretty simple, use one adjustment layer in Photoshop 4 different times somewhere in your post processing. Regardless, Len offered us all a great image to work with! I am assuming this was a sunset, it is hard to tell the difference between a sunrise and a sunset.
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The colors are brilliant and the image is free of any technical flaws! The perfect blend of beautiful landscape and amazing sunset. Len Murtha, an HDR Concert Alumni provided us with this fabulous set of brackets to work with.
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borderbangle2 · 2 years
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Adam Mikołaj Sieniawski (1666-1726), Hetman Wielki Koronny
Posłuchaj rozmawiania o proroku, a wtedy przeczytaj temat. Dużo na problem korekty grzbietu nosa przeczytasz tutaj. Rozdzielczość Full HD ekranu powoduje, że telewizor o tej tejże przekątnej że istnieć dwa razy dalej, niż 4K Ultra HD. Na sam koniec, zaraz po uruchomieniu samej gry, warto wejść do sekcji ustawień obrazu i dopasować jasność efektu HDR. A w panelu ustawień Xboksa, w grupy wyświetlanie włączamy tryb HDR. Zbliżony spadek wydajności GTX-a 1080 można zauważyć w Call of Duty: World War 2. Różnica ma w ostatnim wypadku niemal 4 kl./s na niekorzyść miejsc z włączoną techniką HDR. Zakres jasności w telewizorach LCD z HDR wynosi od 350 do 1000-1500 nt (nit - jednostka luminancji). Przez wytwórnie filmowe jest wybierany Dolby Vision, który radzi sobie tak przy mniejszych jasnościach, co jest znaczące w tańszych telewizorach HDR. Samsunga i Panasonica, a format Dolby Vision opracowany został przez amerykańską firmę Dolby Laboratories daną z zespołów audio, wideo, także kinowych.
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helperlify826 · 2 years
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DescripcionPhotomatix es la utilidad más popular y completa para crear imágenes en alto rango dinámico. Crea impresionantes imágenes en HDR gracias a Photo. Jul 01, 2017 · HDRsoft Photomatix Pro 6.0.2 with size 31.10 Mb is a very useful program for professional photographers and advanced amateurs. The program combines a number of different frames in a scene with high contrast in one image with detail and all the shadows. Photomatix – an autonomous system, which extends the dynamic range of photographers.
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fanofmickey · 7 years
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Watch Your Head
flickr
Watch Your Head by Kevin Wojcik Via Flickr: In trying to keep with the Mickey Mouse color scheme throughout the ship's design, Disney sought special permission from governing authorities, including the U.S. Coast Guard, to be able to change the standard orange of the lifeboats to the yellow that is currently used. 3-exp HDR processed using Photomatix Pro. Adjusted curves, color, contrast and sharpened in CS4. View On Black
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tranripicga · 2 years
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Mamp pro 4.4.1 serial key 無料ダウンロード.Mamp Pro 4 Serial
Mamp pro 4.4.1 serial key 無料ダウンロード.
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Mamp pro 4.4.1 serial key 無料ダウンロード.Mamp Pro Serial
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vlkphoto · 4 months
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3x Penguin + 1x Iguana (b / b) [4 / 4]
A trio of Galapagos penguins flank a marine iguana over a rocky outcrop on the shore of Las Tintoreras off Isla Isabela, Galapagos.
HDR put together with Photomatix, panorama put together with Luminar.
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fudeen-note · 1 year
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daisies are at their peak now.
このページの Photograph はこちらをクリック (click here)
 
 
daisies in a vase by my sick bedside at their peak now-     Translated the Haiku made by MASAOKA Shiki
  枕もとに長命菊のさかりかな            正岡 子規
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
------------------------  この句は正岡子規が最晩年に詠んだ句です。この句の前には「病中」とあり、少し後には「病間あり」との記載があります。ちょっと具合が良くなったような気分であったのでしょうか?  長命菊とはヒナギクのことで、春の季語です。  残念なことに、子規はこの句を作った年の秋に亡くなっています。  少し体調が戻った子規には、枕元に咲いた雛菊が盛りを迎えたことが、とても眩しく感じられたのではないでしょうか?  そんな子規の眼に映った雛菊の印象を僅かながら写し撮るべく 1 EV の差で 7 枚現像して、high dynamic range image として仕上げました。
 
 
 
☆ Shooting Data ------------------------ ○ camera : OLYMPUS TG-4 ○ focal length : 7.3 mm ( compared to 35mm format : 40 mm ) ○ shooting mode : Program AE ○ Tv ( Shutter Speed ) : 1/500 sec. ○ Av ( Aperture Value ) : F2.8 ○ ISO speed rate : 800
 
 
☆ Preprocess ( RAW ) ------------------------ ○ preprocessor : DxO PureRAW 2 ver. 2.6.1.18 ○ method : HQ, PRIME, Deep PRIME ○ DxO optical correction :  whole lens sharpness : on  lens distortion correction : on ○ output format : DNG
 
 
☆ Developing Data ( RAW ) ------------------------ ○ development : RAW image developed by SILKYPIX Developer Studio Pro 11.0.5.0 ○ taste : fudeen's special ○ exposure compensation ( by camera ) : -1/3 EV ○ exposure compensation ( by developer ) : ±0 EV ○ total exposure compensation : -1/3 EV ○ white balance : setting by shooting [ 5,798 K ] ○ tone adjustment : average contrast ○ saturation : manual [ 1.09 / 8.0 ] ○ color profile : natural ○ color representation : film color Fortia ○ sharpness : pure detail  edge emphasis [ 18 / 100 ]  detail emphasis [ 75 / 100 ]  black spotted outline control [ 25 / 100 ] ○ noise reduction : fine detail  false color control : [ 30 / 100 ]  fringe removal : [ 25 / 100 ]  noise aligned : [ 10 / 100 ]  noise removal : [ 60 / 100 ]  dark side noise reduction [ a little strong ] ○ highlights controller : [ initial value ]  color / brightness emphasis [ 25 / 100 ]  saturation / hue emphasis [ 75 / 100 ]  bright portion compensation [ 50 / 100 ]  dynamic range extension [ +5.0 / 6.0 EV ] ○ development setting :  type of file : TIFF  pixel size : original  match the long side direction : off  develop result settings : for reprocessing with silkypix ( 16 bits )  record exif information : on  unsharp mask : none ( 0 % )
 
 
☆ Exposure Blending Data ( HDRI ) ------------------------ ○ exposure blending by Photomatix Pro 6.3 ○ style : balanced ○ EV spacing : 7 images, -3, -2, -1, ±0, +1, +2, +3 ○ tone mapping method : contrast optimization ○ strength for tone mapping [ 50 / 100 % ] ○ tone compression [ ±0.0 / ±10.0 ] ○ light effect [ 20 / 100 % ] ○ luminance [ ±0.0 / ±10.0 ] ○ white clip [ 4.0 / 10.0 ] ○ black clip [ 3.0 / 10.0 ] ○ color settings : image color ○ saturation [ ±0.0 / ±10.0 ] ○ color temperature [ ±0.0 / ±10.0 ] ○ brightness [ +4.0 / ±10.0 ] ○ blending / opacity [ 0 / 100 ] ○ contrast : none ○ sharpness : medium
 
 
☆ Location & Target ------------------------ ○ location : 西日暮里界隈 ○ target : ヒナ��ク ------------------------
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shlomolevi · 2 years
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https://photos.app.goo.gl/jyBXrTK6v4bWgYxd8
#googleautocreations Sigma 10-20mm f / 4–5.6 EX DC HSM lens for #Canon EF TEST on canon rebel T2I (550d) Photomatix 6.1 pro random #dumbo #batterypark #omw #photoaqyn #nyc #downtownbrooklyn
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valorstudio90 · 3 years
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“Tất tần tật” những gì bạn có thể chưa biết về chụp ảnh HDR
Trey Ratcliff được biết đến như một “bậc thầy” của ảnh HDR. Bài viết dưới đây là những chia sẻ của Trey về cách chụp ảnh HDR, cách sử dụng các phần mềm cần thiết và những “mẹo” để cho ra những bức ảnh HDR mà bạn sẽ cảm thấy ưng ý nhất. 
HDR là gì?
HDR là High Dynamic Range (Dải tương phản rộng). Với HDR, những gì bạn thấy ngoài đời thực sẽ được mô tả hết trong bức ảnh.
Mắt người có thể nhìn thấy 11 stops ánh sáng (1 stop tượng trưng cho 1 đơn vị ánh sáng thu được). Máy ảnh có thể thu được 3 stops. Điều đó có nghĩa là muốn có một bức ảnh sao cho giống với những gì mắt thường trông thấy, máy ảnh của bạn sẽ cần chụp cùng lúc nhiều bức ảnh tại một góc chụp với khẩu độ khác nhau để thu nhận được đầy đủ các dải ánh sáng.
Bước 1: Chuẩn bị công cụ
Trước hết, bạn cần chuẩn bị đầy đủ các thiết bị cần thiết (máy ảnh, lens, tripod) và phần mềm xử lý ảnh HDR. Khi mới bắt đầu chụp ảnh, Trey Ratcliff dùng một chiếc máy ảnh với giá không quá cao, và dần dần nâng cấp máy ảnh theo thời gian. Hiện tại, Trey đang dùng Nikon D800. Bạn có thể tham khảo các bài review về thiết bị chụp ảnh tại trang Reviews của Trey tại đây.
Máy ảnh. 90% các loại máy ảnh hiện nay đều có thể chụp tốt ảnh HDR. Để chụp được ảnh HDR, bạn hãy chọn các loại máy ảnh có thể:
Chụp nhiều ảnh cùng lúc với chế độ “Auto-bracketing mode” (hoặc “Auto-exposure mode” hay “Exposure Bracketing”).
Cho phép chụp ở chế độ Ưu tiên khẩu độ và điều chỉnh độ Exposure.
Chụp ảnh RAW.
Chân máy (tripod). Bạn có thể dùng tripod khi cần chụp ảnh trong điều kiện thiếu sáng (chẳng hạn như chụp vào lúc hoàng hôn). 
Phần mềm chỉnh sửa. Dưới đây là danh sách một vài phần mềm chỉnh sửa phục vụ cho bộ ảnh HDR mà nhiếp ảnh gia Trey thường sử dụng (tất cả đều có thể hoạt động tốt trên Mac hoặc Windows): 
Các phần mềm cơ bản cần có:
Photomatix Pro 
Photomatix Presets 
Các phần mềm không bắt buộc (nhưng có nhiều tính năng thú vị):
Adobe Lightroom 
Nik and OnOne 
Topaz Adjust 
Noiseware Professional
Adobe Photoshop hoặc Elements
Bước 2: Chụp ảnh
Hãy tìm một địa điểm phù hợp và chọn một ngày thật đẹp trời để chụp ảnh, khi trời trong xanh và nắng chiếu lung linh. Bạn sẽ cần chụp nhiều ảnh ở cùng một góc chụp với độ Exposure khác nhau, sau đó ghép những tấm hình đó lại thành một bức ảnh HDR. Đây chính là lúc chiếc tripod phát huy tối đa công dụng tuyệt vời của mình.
Lúc này, bạn cần chụp những bức ảnh với chế độ chụp tối (under-exposed), chụp ảnh dư sáng (over-exposed) và chụp với độ Exposure ở mức bình thường. Sau đó, bạn cần ghép những bức ảnh này lại với nhau bằng một phần mềm chỉnh sửa hậu kỳ, biến những bức ảnh trở nên chân thật nhất và giống với những gì mắt thường nhìn thấy nhất.
Bạn có thể tham khảo một phải bí kíp chụp ảnh dưới dây: 
Chụp Bracketing: Dù có thể tạo ra một bức HDR đẹp từ ảnh RAW, nhưng bạn vẫn nên dùng chế độ Auto Bracketing. Đây là chế độ cho phép bạn chụp cùng lúc nhiều ảnh với các mức độ phơi sáng khác nhau. 
Chụp ưu tiên khẩu độ: Cài đặt chế độ ưu tiên khẩu độ (Aperture Priority) và bật chế độ Auto Bracketing (để chụp liền 3 bức với độ phơi sáng lần lượt là  -2, 0 và +2). Mỗi loại máy ảnh lại có khả năng chụp khác nhau, có máy chụp được nhiều hơn nhưng cũng có máy chụp được ít hơn. Chẳng hạn như Nikon D800 có thể chụp 9 bức: -4, -3, -2, -1, 0, +1, +2, +3, +4.
Ngoài ra, bạn cũng nên lưu ý:
Đảm bảo rằng mình đang chụp ảnh RAW, không phải JPG. 
Nếu bạn chụp theo hướng về phía mặt trời, hãy thử chụp với độ phơi sáng là -3.
Trong điều kiện thiếu sáng, việc sử dụng tripod sẽ giúp góc chụp của bạn ổn định hơn. Nếu không có tripod, bạn có thể xử lý hậu kỳ với Photomatix.
Khi dùng tripod và chụp trong điều kiện thiếu sáng, hãy điều chỉnh ISO xuống thấp nhất có thể để tránh làm nhiễu ảnh.
Dưới đây là một vài bức nhiếp ảnh gia Trey chụp tại Milford Sound, New Zealand.
Bước 3: Dùng Photomatix để tạo ảnh HDR
Bạn có thể làm theo các bước dưới đây:
1) Mở Photomatix và tải lên tất cả các bức ảnh chụp bracket. Bạn có thể làm theo nhiều cách, đó có thể là kéo trực tiếp những bức ảnh từ Lightroom sang Photomatix, hoặc chọn ảnh từ một folder, hoặc dùng Photomatix để tải lên. 
2) Tiếp theo, bạn sẽ thấy bảng Preprocessing Options hiện lên. Tại đây, bạn lựa chọn các mục phù hợp với bức ảnh của mình. 
3) Click vào Preprocess và chờ đợi điều kỳ diệu đến với bức ảnh của mình! 
Nào là ảnh chụp lúc hoàng hôn, ảnh chụp vào ban ngày, rồi thì ảnh chụp nội thất… Không bức ảnh nào giống hoàn toàn với bức ảnh nào, vậy nên bạn cũng khó có được kết quả giống nhau đối với mọi bức ảnh. Vậy nên khi sử dụng Photomatix, bạn có thể thử các presets khác nhau để xem đâu là bộ phù hợp nhất với bức ảnh của mình. 
4) Dùng công cụ Tone Mapping/Details Enhancer để chỉnh sửa sắc thái, màu sắc của ảnh. 
5) Sau khi đã hoàn thành xong tất cả các bước và cảm thấy hài lòng với bức ảnh của mình, bạn ấn Done và lưu lại thành quả.
Bước 4: Chỉnh sửa hậu kỳ
Ở bước này, bạn đã có một bức ảnh HDR sau khi ghép lại từ nhiều bức ảnh khác và có thể chỉnh sửa bức ảnh bằng các phần mềm chỉnh sửa hậu kỳ. Dưới đây là những lời khuyên khi sử dụng Lightroom và Photoshop của Trey Ratcliff.
Chỉnh sửa trên Lightroom 
1) Mở Lightroom và tải lên bức ảnh HDR mà bạn muốn chỉnh sửa. Sau đó vào chế độ Develop và tạo preset mới (hoặc dùng một preset đã có). 
2) Sau khi phủ lên bức ảnh một lớp preset, bạn có thể điều chỉnh các thông số ở khung cửa sổ bên phải. Nếu muốn thay đổi preset của bức ảnh, bạn có thể điều chỉnh ở khung cửa sổ bên trái.
3) Sau khi đã điều chỉnh xong tất cả các thông số, bạn ch�� việc xuất bức ảnh bằng cách vào File → Export… (hoặc ấn tổ hợp Ctrl+Shift+E).
Chỉnh sửa trên Photoshop 
Nếu bạn chưa biết cách sử dụng Photoshop, đừng lo lắng, hãy học dần từ những thứ nhỏ nhất. Dưới đây là hướng dẫn của Trey về cách sử dụng Photoshop cực đơn giản mà không nhất thiết phải “thuộc nằm lòng” mọi tính năng của phần mềm này.
1) Mở Photoshop, tải lên hai bức ảnh: một bức vừa hoàn thiện trên Lightroom và một bức là ảnh HDR gốc. Đặt layer ảnh Lightroom lên trên ảnh HDR gốc.
2) Kết hợp hai bức ảnh với nhau bằng cách sử dụng tính năng Masking. Nếu bạn chưa biết cách sử dụng Masking trong Photoshop, hãy thử tham khảo video này. 
Mẹo: Nếu ấn phím \, bạn sẽ thấy các vùng mình đang tạo mask. Màu hồng càng đậm tức là vùng đó đang được tạo mask nhiều hơn.
3) Tiếp theo, hãy Merge (gộp) các layer lại với nhau bằng cách chọn Layers → Merge Layers (hoặc ấn tổ hợp Ctrl+E).
4) Cuối cùng, bạn giảm noise (độ nhiễu ảnh) và tăng độ nét cho ảnh. Bạn có thể tham khảo thêm một vài phần mềm có thể làm tốt tính năng này tại đây.
Vậy là đã xong rồi đó! Chúc bạn có những bức ảnh HDR thật ưng ý!
Bài viết trên được dựa trên bài hướng dẫn HDR Tutorial – How To Make Beautiful HDR Photos With Ease của nhiếp ảnh gia Trey Ratcliff.
Bản quyền dịch: Valor team Credit: Everything You Need To Know About HDR Photography (Tips on Shooting the Best HDR Images Possible)
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rodrigokobayashi · 3 years
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Okuni Jinja na cidade de Mori. Legal que eu postei uns vídeos de lá no Stories e muita gente me mandou no Direct que só de ver o local, já se sentiu em paz. Acho que não só a vibe espiritual do lugar, mas a conexão com a natureza que você encontra na maioria dos templos ajudam também a criar esse clima acolhedor. Qual o seu templo/santuário preferido? Ou se você mora no Brasil, já foi em algum? (Lembrando que existem alguns no Brasil) Com relação a foto, foi feito o empilhamento de 4 fotos com exposições diferentes no Photomatix Pro (Plug In do Capture One) e uma edição básica no próprio Capture One, não mexi muito nas cores. Estou testando o HDR do Photomatix comparando com o Lightroom. Em fotos com boa luz os resultados são bons em ambos os programas, mas para fotos noturnas o Photomatix é muito ruim 😅... Em fotos noturnas aconselho empilhar no Lightroom mesmo (meu último post da foto noturna na cidade de Iwata foi feito assim). O EXIF da foto base está abaixo. Paz ✌️ 📍Okuni Jinja, Mori Shizuoka-ken 📆 2021/09 📷 Sony A7C - Sony G 20mm F/1.8 📸 F/11 1/1.6s ISO100 (base image in bracketing) Publicação original do Instagram. Caso esteja vendo esta publicação em outro local, me siga também por lá: instagram.com/rodrigokobayashi_ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - #partiujapão #brasiljapão #unknownjapan #brasileirosnojapão #japãonossodecadadia #japão🇯🇵 #japan_daytime_viewd #japan_views #japan_insta #japan_photo_view #japan_reviews #japan_vacation #shizuokajapan #shizuoka_photo_club #templosagrado #culturajaponesa🎎 #fotografia_ #photography_ #brazilian_photographers #rodrigokobayashi #shizuoka_photo_share #japan_insta #morandonojapão #tokyocameraclub #budismoengajado #xintoísmo #bealtifuldestinations #japan_of_insta #bealtifulplaces #place_topshot (em Okuni Shrine) https://www.instagram.com/p/CUIFLb7PgPp/?utm_medium=tumblr
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