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grandmaster-anne · 1 year

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LIFE AT GATCOMBE PARK: Country Life was granted an extraordinary behind-the-scenes look into Princess Anne’s life at her Gloucestershire home.

Country Life | Published 29 July 2020

Guest-Edited by HRH The Princess Royal

The Princess says: ‘There are so many different parts of Gatcombe and that’s the best thing about it. It’s a proper mixed farm—not that we were looking to farm, in the beginning!’

GATCOMBE PARK is inhabited by curious Gloucestershire Old Spot pigs that like to watch dressage, elegant, sooty-nosed White Park cattle, a matronly Suffolk filly, bustling Buff Orpington hens and their feisty cockerel and venerable grazing Wiltshire Horn sheep that resemble the inhabitants of a pastoral scene from a Thomas Hardy novel. Britain’s endlessly diverse, entertaining and genetically crucial native farm animals have long owed a great deal to the agricultural interests of the Royal Family.

The idea of improving livestock dates back centuries, but it was during Queen Victoria’s reign that enthusiasm for breed societies, official studbooks and competing at agricultural shows really took off and, ever since, British livestock breeds have benefited from knowledgeable, close royal interest and loyalty.

The Queen Mother presided over the North Country Cheviot Sheep Society and, with George VI, the Aberdeen-Angus Cattle Society —she kept and bred both breeds at her Castle of Mey farm in Caithness. The Queen, who succeeded her mother as president of the Highland Cattle Society, bestows royal patronage on, among others, the Ayrshire and Jersey cattle societies. The Prince of Wales is president of the Rare Breeds Survival Trust (RBST) and patron of The Poultry Club of Great Britain.

Some 30 of The Princess Royal’s 200-plus charitable patronages relate to animals and her 500-acre estate in Gloucestershire, which was formerly a dairy farm and has only a small nucleus of modest agricultural buildings, showcases an eclectic collection of sometimes neglected breeds, all organically reared and grass fed.

Their presence is a necessity: although the valley pastureland looks the rural, bucolic idyll, Cotswold brash does not make for rich arable soil and, as The Princess points out, turning organic with hardy livestock breeds, the meat from which is chiefly sold locally, was the only economically viable option. She also observes that cattle farming here isn’t easy, due to a local abundance of badgers.

‘Organic has become a more difficult market over the years,’ she discerns. ‘I think perhaps the emphasis now is more on buying local and in looking after your soil. We have to keep finding more imaginative uses for land.’

Part of the estate is farmed under the Government’s Higher Level Stewardship scheme, through which farmers receive payments for delivering conservation benefits, such as wildflower margins—these schemes terminate at the end of the Brexit transition period in 2022.

About half is woodland—a glorious mix of broadleaf species with plenty of beech—managed by Vice-Admiral Sir Tim Laurence (My Week, page 78). There is a modest pheasant shoot and a partridge shoot overseen by The Princess’s son, Peter Phillips. He is also the director of the annual Festival of British Eventing, which should have been taking place here next week, but, as have most sporting events this summer, has sadly had to be cancelled.

The crowds of picnicking cross-country spectators are, more than anyone, familiar with the pleasingly shaped ashlar limestone house that forms a graceful backdrop to the horse trials at the head of the valley, overseeing the thrills and spills in the water fences around the ponds below.

A successful clothier, Edward Sheppard, signalled his prosperity by having the house built on the old manors of Avening and Minchinhampton between 1771 and 1774 by Francis Franklin of Chalford. The familiar conservatory—as well as the polygonal stables and coach house—was added by George Basevi in the early 19th century, when the property was acquired by the wealthy MP and influential political economist David Ricardo, in whose family it remained until 1937. Gatcombe has been the home of The Princess Royal since 1976.

The pigs

TRADITIONALLY, horses are not fans of pigs and, at horse-trials time, there are requests for the Gloucestershire Old Spots (GOS) to be kept away from the dressage arenas—although, as The Princess points out, it’s good for horses to learn to behave and riders to manage them. One day, a porcine group managed to make its way towards the action, grunting curiously: ‘Then, suddenly, something startled them and they scattered in all directions,’ recalls The Princess. ‘It was hysterical. They’re very chatty.’

Owners of highly strung horses need not worry too much, however. The cheerful pigs mainly live in woodland, where it’s shady in summer and there are enough holes and dips in the ground to shelter them from winter winds whistling overhead. The GOS also has a distinctive layer of back fat, which not only lends succulence and flavour to the meat, but keeps out the chill.

As with the cattle, the difficulty is in maintaining bloodlines—there are only four GOS boar lines in the country. ‘The original idea was to do weaners, but there weren’t enough around and we had to go back to breeding our own,’ notes farm manager Sam Stevens. ‘We found ourselves going as far as Cheshire for a pedigree boar.’

The GOS originated not far from Gatcombe in the cider and perry orchards of the Berkeley Vale and also has been dubbed the orchard pig—the spots were said to be bruises from falling apples—as well as the cottager’s pig. It was the first animal to have its meat awarded Traditional Speciality Guaranteed status by the EU, yet the breed is classified by the RBST as ‘at risk’, with fewer than 500 breeding sows in the country. The Princess is patron of the breed club.

The chickens

A TINY corner of the estate is given over to a flock of Buff Orpington hens and an imperious cockerel. ‘My grandmother kept them,’ explains The Princess. ‘They’re not overly prolific layers, but when they do, they produce big eggs.’

The majestic Buff Orpington, its golden plumage not far from the honey shade of some Cotswold stone, is a popular country-house chicken for its ornamental good looks, pleasingly solid shape and friendly, biddable nature.

The Orpington was greeted with great acclaim from poultry fanciers when first revealed, in 1886, by William Cook, a coachman from the eponymous Kent town. Poultry showing and fancy fowl, the more exotic the better, were big interests at the time, but the trend was also moving towards practicality and the Orpington bridged the gap between ornament and egg producer.

The cattle

A FEW Highland cattle inhabit Gatcombe Park—these endearingly shaggy-fringed beasts are now frequently seen south of the Scottish border, thanks to their rising usefulness as conservation grazers—but The Princess has long been a champion of the White Park. Classified ‘minority’ on the RBST watchlist (there are some 950 breeding females in the country), the White Park is thought to be Britain’s most ancient native cattle, with records dating back at least to the 10th century. Little surprise, therefore, that the RBST chose the breed as its logo.

These magnificent animals with their appealing black ‘points’ once adorned many parklands of the nobility, but, when such places declined in the 19th century, so did the cattle. Only four of these ancient herds survive, one of which is at Dinefwr in Carmarthenshire; the National Trust recently launched an appeal to raise £36,000 to buy another bull to keep the bloodline alive.

White Parks are tough, thrifty—able to flourish on coarse forage—and they produce quality, marbled beef. ‘We originally thought about having Shorthorns, but White Parks are more distinctive,’ comments The Princess, who acquired some of hers from a herd running free on Salisbury Plain.

‘I’m trying to improve them, but it’s a case of how to keep the colour.’ Because they are in possession of the black gene, the cattle can breed out with mottled black markings all over the body or even in solid black, as evinced by some of the striking beasts here; the points can come in red, too.

The horses

THERE has been a new arrival—a little chestnut Thoroughbred colt foal, Reel Fashion, by jumping sire Schiaparelli out of Gatcombe mare Fiddle Faddle. The Princess’s equestrian career is forever synonymous with eventing—she won the European title in 1971, a clutch of medals and was a member of the British team at the Montreal Olympic Games in 1976—but she also rode winners on the Flat and over jumps as an amateur jockey and her horse-breeding interests centre around the National Hunt world. ‘They have to do something useful,’ she remarks.

There are plenty of event horses around, too: The Princess’s daughter, Zara Tindall, herself a former European champion and a world and Olympic medallist, has hers at nearby Aston Farm and Tom McEwen, who, if things were normal, might reasonably have expected to be at the Tokyo Olympics right now, is the latest in a long line of fine horsemen to make Gatcombe their eventing base.

Amid a field of bay Thoroughbred fillies, Winnie, the Suffolk mare, cuts an imposing, solid presence. She’s also friendly—and curious, enthusiastically nibbling the windscreen wipers. ‘I bought her grandmother from the Hollesley Bay Colony Stud in Suffolk when they sold up,’ explains The Princess, who is patron of the Suffolk Horse Society, founded in 1877.

These striking heavy horses, with their rich chestnut coats and paler, flaxen or silver manes and tails, were bred to work the clay soil of East Anglia, but the difficulty of finding a role for them outside ploughing and timber hauling means that they are classified as ‘critical’ on the RBST watchlist. One potential outlet is as steady, careful mounts for Riding for the Disabled, another of The Princess’s long-time patronages. ‘Lockdown has been very hard on families with disabled children,’ she points out. ‘The number of parents who say their children’s behaviour has improved thanks to riding is striking.’

The sheep

SOME 230 Wiltshire Horn ewes graze the farm. Again, this is a hardy breed, which for centuries inhabited the treeless Wiltshire Downs, where there’s neither shade nor shelter. Wiltshire Horns lamb outside and, conveniently, are the original wool-shedding (no shearing) sheep, their fleece naturally shedding in spring and growing again in autumn.

The impressive horns come in useful, too: ‘You don’t really want horns inside, as that’s when your shins get mangled, but, outside, you’ve got handles to grab them with,’ observes Mr Stevens. ‘And,’ he adds, ‘they produce fantastic meat. Even the hogget meat isn’t overly fatty.’

Wiltshire Horn numbers dwindled alarmingly in the 19th century, a time when wool was a far more important currency than it is now, but, in 1923, a group of owners, determined to preserve genetic purity, formed the breed society. Competition from other wool-rich breeds caused further decline and the Wiltshire Horn came under the wing of the RBST in the 1970s, but new recognition of its low-maintenance qualities means that it’s now off the watchlist.

#princess anne #princess royal #country life #guest edited #article #life at gatcombe

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suinumi · 2 years

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Hello tumblerraria community i have a question albeit a silly one aaaa

Does yall give your npcs names? I personally name my npcs after my mobile play-through names since i got attached and it was my first platform

id thought id give out my npcs names:

Guide: Brett ( I have the BIGGEST soft spot for any guide with this name and i actually try to get a guide with this name when i enter hardmode flkddflk)

Painter: i head-canon my painter to be called Stefano (BUT i also really like carlo too since he was my first painter on pc, also it matches with the dye traders name a lil)

Dye Trader: Kamni

Stylist: Roxanne

Party girl: Candy

Nurse: Hannah

Dryad: Nata

Angler: Peter (ik its not a terraria name, but the angler always gave me APH sealand vibes so i named my angler after him)

Travelling merchant: Mercer (it used to be Shipton but i gave him so much headcanons and lore that he kinda became a different character, hes now my oc hahaha)

Merchant: Mortimer

Clothier: Arthur

Truffle: Cremini

Arms dealer: Demetrius

Steampunker: Vivian

Demolitionist: Norkas

Princess: Alice

Star Merchant: Liu Xing

Golfer: Gunner Mclovin

Zoologist: Mackenzie

Mechanic: Sally

Tax Collector: Woodrow

Goblin Tinkerer: Nork

Wizard: Elric

Cyborg: Theta

Pirate: Captain Morgan

Skeleton Merchant: RATTLES MAGOO (i love this name lmao)

Witch Doctor: Konah

Tavernkeep: Moe

I thank thats all, If anyone sees this, i lowkey wanna know what you guys call your npcs so feel free to respond :0

I also have a lot of heacanons but i always feel like I’m spamming when i post something that doesn’t nt have a drawing and its just me rambling njsfjnsdf

So if it is annoying, just lemme know ty ahaha-

#terraria npc #terraria #my post #suis terraria headcanons

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elizabeanmemes · 2 years

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Prep Lifestyle

Etiquette

Classic clothes only

Remember who you are and the family you’re from; conduct yourself properly at all times

Discretion is the better part of valor

Never complain, never explain

Thank you notes on stationery within 24 hr

Live within your means

Nothing showy/big logos

Smile at everyone

Creators

Clare McLaughlin/Clare Sullivan

EmilyOandBows

Julesvlogs19 (TT)

Purapreppy (TT)

Whipplequincy

Mrs.sharty (TT)

Clothing Staples

Camel coat

Navy blazer with gold buttons

Black blazer

✅ Striped shirt

✅ Black long sleeve

✅ Jeans

Crisp white shirt

✅ Tan sweater

Trench coat

Black pencil skirt

✅ Black T shirt

✅ White T shirt

✅ Black shirt

Black sun hat

✅ Tan purse

✅ Black purse

Watch

✅ Pearl earrings

✅ Black heels

✅ Black boots

✅ Black wallet

Nude flats

Grey wool pants (Brooks, Talbots, Lafayette, Nordstrom house brand)

Black A-line dress

Cable-knit cashmere pullover

✅ Pearls

✅ Stud earrings

Polo dresses

Classic jewelry to pull the look together

*Khakis (casual, have both long and cropped)

Khaki shorts

Jeans (casual)

Tees (casual)

*Polos (casual)

Turtlenecks (casual)

✅ Tretorns (casual)

Linen blazer (summer)

White pants (summer)

*Lilly shift dress (summer)

Nantucket red shorts (summer)

Jack Rogers sandals (summer)

Ferragamo pumps

*Loafers (Belgian)

Tasteful, traditional flats

Madras shirt

Madras shorts

Madras blazer

Ribbon belt

Sweater tied around the neck

Hair ribbons

Ribbon headbands

Classic jewelry

Plain, classic hats (Polo player, Lacoste, Brooks Brothers)

OCBDs

✅ Dark wash fitted jeans

Brown loafers

Cardigans

J Crew Jeans

White and pink BB Polo Oxford shirts

Navy pants

White blouse with French cuffs

Sweater sets

Stubbs & Wooten needlepoint slippers

Hermes belt

Goyard bag

✅ Hunter rain boots

Down vest (navy, red, Hunter green)

Coordinating winter hat and gloves

✅ Bean boots

Fair Isle yoke sweater (O’Connell)

LL bean boat n tote bag (navy, red, or green with monogram)

Ray Ban Wayfarer or American Optical Saratoga sunglasses

Black turtleneck

Wrap dress

Tuckernuck Blue Stripe Willow Blouse

CB Jackets

Merino Wool Full Zip Jacket

Cartier Tank Watch

Oxford Evergreen Watch

LL Bean Field watch with grosgrain or madras band

Stubbs and Wooten slippers

Pastel button downs

✅ white tank

✅ navy tank

Short and long sleeve linen shirts (white, ecru)

Navy shorts

Khaki shorts

Tan espadrille

High nude heels

Low nude heels

Summer scarves

Pink cardigan

Lilly Pulitzer dresses

White classic sneakers

Sandals

Sunhat

Polos

White jeans

Pink or green Patagonia vest

Navy or brown Sperry’s

Jack Rogers

Braided belt

Pink seersucker

Shoes

*Sperry’s Topsiders

Tory Burch flats

Sam Edelman flats

Bass Weejuns

Clarks brand

Gucci brand

Belgian shoes

Frye boots

Sebago (higher quality alternative to Sperry’s)

Castañer espadrilles

Rancourt and Company loafers

Accessories

KJP belts

✅ Nantucket basket

Embroidered Bermuda bag

Tiffany By The Yard Diamond Stud earrings

Fine grain cognac medium leather bag

Longchamp bag (Le Pliage)

Navy monogrammed medium LL Bean zip up tote

Vermont Country Store purses

Dooney & Bourke bag

YSL clutch

Bermuda bag with changeable covers and mother of Pearl buttons

Goyard handbags

Frances Valentine Wallet

Travelambo wallet

Patterns

Seersucker

Prints in general

Whale print

Anchor print

Palm tree print

Crab print

Lobster print

Nautical flag print

Nautical stripes

Colors

Bright!

Pink

Lime green

Yellow

Kelly green

Navy

White

Tan

Black

Beige

Red

Farrow & Ball pink

Pastels

Clothing Brands

Ralph Lauren

Lilly Pulitzer

Brooks Brothers

Lacoste

Burberry

LL Bean

Vineyard Vines

J Crew

Andover Shop

J Press

Paul Stewart

Charles Tyrwhitt

Castaway

Cable Car Clothiers

Sid Mashburn

Land’s End

Lumina Clothing Company

Peter Millar

Ian Marko

Bonobos

Gant USA

Orvis

Jos A. Bank

Ted Baker

Pringle of Scotland

Vicomte Arthur

CK Bradley

Murray’s Togggery Shop

Patagonia

Tommy Hilfiger

Greg Norman

Barbour

Tucker Blair

Alden

Crockett and Jones

Kate Spade

Ella Vickers

Michael Kors

Ferragamo

Carolina Herrera

Stubs and Wootton

Thomas Pink

Talbots

Tod’s

Vintage Izod/Lacoste

Silk and Salt

Rowing Blazers

Mercer and Sons

Boden

Jane

CK Bradley

Ann Mashburn

Filson

Orvis

Le Chameau

Dubarry

Murray’s Toggery

Gretchen Scott

Aran Sweater Market

Blarney Woolen Mill

Cordings

Tuckernuck

Martin and Osa

Gucci [especially shoes]

Sperry’s Topsider [shoes]

Clarks [shoes]

Bass [shoes]

Tory Burch [flats]

Kiel James Patrick [belts]

Collared Greens [ties]

Alexander Olch [ties]

NOT Hollister, American Eagle, Abercrombie

Gloria Vanderbilt

More Brands

Club Monaco

Draper James dresses

JMclaughlin

Frances Valentine

Gretchen Scott

Jude Connally

Crown & Ivy

Elizabeth Wilson Designs

Sail to Sable

Sarah Campbell

Laura Ashley

St James (Breton stripe)

Gatorlily’s Resale Boutique

James Avery Jewelry

Rally House (College shirts)

Gone downhill: Ann Taylor, Talbots

Portland Leather Goods

Everlane Day Market Tote

Quince

Everlane

Outfit Ideas

Pleated skirt with sweater (Fair Isle, argyle, cashmere) and ballet slippers, boots (low heel or riding), or kitten heels w/ tights (try matte black tights); could add pearls

Try the pleated skirt look with grey cashmere sweater with white collar and cuffs, grey tights, and patent loafers (or regular grey sweater with funky tights)

Pleated skirt with blouse and black pumps

Pointy (leopard) pumps, jeans, slouchy cashmere sweater, pearls, perfect hair, minimal makeup

Pointy (leopard) pumps, high waisted jeans, chunky cropped camel cable knit

Pointy (leopard) pumps, high waisted jeans, black cashmere v neck, Hermes big silk scarf

Pointy (leopard) pumps, jeans, black cashmere turtleneck, gold cuff bracelet, gold chunky hoop earrings

Black turtleneck, black capri pants, ballet flats, blazer or Hermes shawl, Hermes belt

Thanksgiving: black turtleneck and tartan stole

Blue vintage Lilly dress, monogrammed gold necklace, Tretorns, Aigner sunglasses

Cars

**Range Rover

**Mercedes Station Wagon (esp with wood-type paneling)

Mercedes GLE

Mercedes GLS

*Subaru Wagon

Subaru Forester

**Volvo C70

*VW Rabbit

*Land Rover (*$$ to maintain, avoid the NEW Defender)

The Aviator

Land Cruiser

Items

Monogrammed tissue box cover

Red Stewart tartan shower curtain

Vern Yip soap dispenser

Monograms/engraving: tote bag, Oxford shirt, jewelry, money clip

ZDMHSH 100% Silk Scarf (green with floral pattern, Amazon)

MEISEE 21” Silk Scarf (green and pink, Amazon)

Rowing Blazers Black Sheep Scarf

Rowing Blazers Black Sheep Sweater

Gucci bangle bracelet

Black

Vacation Spots

Rhode Island: North Fork, Little Compton, Block Island, *Newport

Maine: Camden, Kennebunkport, *Freeport

MA: *The Cape, ***Martha’s Vineyard, *Nantucket

VA: Charlottesville, Georgetown

NC: Duck, Outer Banks

Bethany Beach, DE

FL: Coconut Grove, Key West, *Palm Beach, *Seaside, Boca Raton

The Greenbrier, WV

SC: Pawley’s Island, Hilton Head, Myrtle Beach, ***Charleston

GA: Sea Island, Savannah

*Hamptons, NY

Annapolis, MD

Grand Manan Island

**Muskoka

**Bermuda

Capri, Italy

Santorini

St. Kitts

Bastad, Sweden

St Moritz, Switzerland

Monaco

Cape

Harwich Antiques

Boston

Andover Shop

Bell in Hand Tavern

J Mclaughlin

Charles St

Tremont St

Fairbanks House

Sparks Steakhouse on E 46th St, get Roquefort cheese on top

Parker House Hotel

Hampshire House bar on Beacon St

No. 9 Park

Lobster from James Hook & Co

Wenham Tea House

Harvest

Franklin Cafe

Uni

Woodman’s

Bostonian Public House

The Chart House

Marliave

Dolce Vita

Yvonnes (dinner)

Oak Bar (drinks)

Four seasons (tea)

1928

The Langham

Caffe Vittoria

Green Dragon

Bond Bar at the Langham

Mike’s Pastry (best cannolis)

NYC

Peter Luger (lunch burger)

Katz Deli (cheesecake)

Juniors (cheesecake)

JG Melon (burgers, beer, pub fare. Bring cash)

Donohue’s (steak, seafood, cocktails)

Serendipity 3

The Smith

The Dead Rabbit (gastropub, great cocktails)

The Capital Grille

Uncle Mario’s

Joe Allen’s on 46th

Delmonicos

King Cole Bar

Keens

Pete’s tavern

Dead rabbit

Ping

Francois tavern

One if by land two if by sea

Baltzar

Elios

Uno

The Carlyle

St Ambrues

The Mark

Bear Bar

The Polo Bar

Claudette

Philippe

John’s on Bleeker

Pier Hotel on 5th and 61st

Gramercy Tavern

Fraunces Tavern

Rainbow Room

Delmonico’s

Raine’s Law Room (cocktails)

The Plaza (tea)

Bergdorf (tea)

Dorsia

Pasti’s

PJ Clark’s on Fifth

Ellen’s starlight diner

The Smith (tomato soup)

Salt + charcoal (steak, crab cakes)

William Vale Hotel and Westlight rooftop bar

Mcnally Jackson bookstore

Chez Josephine

Jack and Charlie’s No 118

Lola Taverna

Carbone

Bar Tulix

Malatesta

Trattoria del Arte (57th st/Avenue of the Americas)

Gallagher’s Steak House

PJ Clarkes

Odeon

Morandi

Chez Bonoit

Elio’s UES

Balthazar SoHo

Food/Recipes

Lobster

Ina Garten chocolate tart recipe

Fannie Farmer Mac n Cheese

Cheese plate

Shrimp cocktail

Alcohol

Pinot Noir

Piper-Heidsieck

Perrier-Jouet

Pimms

Pernod

Gin: Tangueray, *Hendricks, Bombay Sapphire Conniption in regular and Navy Strength for something unique (keep limes/lime juice and tonic water on hand!) - keep two brands on hand possibly since people have strong opinions

Cutty Sark Whiskey

Macallan Scotch

Perfume

Jo Malone Peony and Blush Suede

**Chanel Chance

**Creed Spring Flowers

Clean Reserve Radiant Nectar

**Dolce & Gabana Light Blue

Gucci Bloom

*Jo Malone Wild Bluebell

**Chanel Coco Mademoiselle

Marc Jacobs Honey

Guerlain Mon Guerlain

Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet

Eau de Cartier (fall/winter)

Jeans/Pants

FRAME

PAIGE

Madewell

JCrew

Gloria Vanderbilt

Ralph Lauren

Banana Republic

Pearls

Chantilly

Monogram

Mark and Graham

Prep Obsessed

Shirts for Layering

Uniqlo t shirts

J Crew and J Crew factory tissue turtlenecks

J Crew Factory Artist Tee

LL Bean

Chadwicks

Headbands

Lele

JCrew

Chocolate

Wilbur Buds

Neuhaus

Lake Champlain

Gorant

Magazines

Victoria

Vintage Town and Country

Veranda

Yankee

Cape Cod Life

This Old House

Rhode Island Monthly

Country Living

The English Garden

The Field

Country Life (UK)

The Magazine Antiques

Preservation

Music

Teddy

Beach Boys

Billy Joel

Elton John

Chicago

Jefferson Airplane/Starship

The Dead

Neil Young

David Bowie

Rolling Stones

The Who

Talking Heads

Harold Melvin and the Blue Notes

Vampire Weekend

B52s

REM

Spandau Ballet

Paul Weiler (The Style Council)

Terry Hall and the Colourfield

The Pale Fountains

Nick Heyward and the Haircut 100

New Order

China Crisis

OMD

The Go Gos

Elvis

Bryan Ferry (Roxy Music)

Wilco

MGMT

Take Five by the Dave Brubeck Quartet

Chet Baker

Miles David

Frank Sinatra

Carolina Beach Music

Yacht rock

Movies

Anything Wes Anderson

The Graduate

Love Story

The Paper Chase

The Great Gatsby starring Mia Farrow

Philadelphia Story

Ordinary People

Igby Goes Down

Home Alone

The World According to Garp

Making the Grade

Trading Places

Cruel Intentions

House of Yes

Royal Tenenbaums

The Talented Mr. Ripley

High Society

Castle (Netflix)

Metropolitan

American Psycho

Dead Poets Society

Animal House

The Mona Lisa Smile

Brideshead Revisited

Caddyshack

Philadelphia Story

Sabrina

Emma

Pride and Prejudice

Heathers

Pretty in Pink

Less than Zero

A Separate Peace

Endless Love

Rushmore

Chinatown

Saint Elmo’s Fire

You’ve Got Mail

Something’s Gotta Give

Hanging Up

The Family Stone

In the Gloaming

The Game

Oxford Blues

Scent of a Woman

Anything John Hughes

Breakfast at Tiffany’s

Masquerade (Rob Lowe)

Reversal of Fortune

The Russia House

Good Fortune

Burn After Reading

Chariots of Fire

Thoroughbreds

The Good Shephard

American Werewolf in London

The Graduate

Sixteen Candles

Ferris Bueller’s Day Off

A Single Man

Angels in America

Anna Karenina

Annie Hall

Beatriz at Dinner

Cabaret

Call Me By Your Name

✅ Clueless

Downton Abbey, The Movie

Downton Abbey, A New Era

Father of the Bride movies

Good Will Hunting

Grey Gardens

Harvard Beats Yale 29-29

Jackie

✅ Legally Blonde

Little Women

Longtime Companion

Lulu’s Pearl Bracelet

Maurice

Pret a Porter

Romeo and Juliet (1996)

School Ties

Sense and Sensibility

Steel Magnolias

The American Ruling Class

The Breakfast Club

The Circle

The College Admissions Scandal: Operation Varsity Blues

The Devil Wears Prada

The Firm

The Last Days of Disco

The Lords of Discipline

The Preppie’s Movie List

The Remains of the Day

The Social Network

The Way We Were

Those People

Wall Street

With Honors

Wuthering Heights

Adventures in Babysitting

Cutlery

Paul Revere by Oneida

Style Icons

Audrey Hepburn

Grace Kelly

Catherine Zeta Jones

Elizabeth Taylor

Victoria Kensington

Dorothy Dandridge

Diahann Carroll

Dina Merrill

Caroline Bessette

CZ Guest

Cornelia Guest

Reese Witherspoon

Candice Bergen

Tory Burch

Katharine Hepburn

Kelly Rutherford

Fashion/Lifestyle Books

Rowing Blazers by Jack Carlson

The Ivy League by Daniel Capello

Hollywood and the Ivy Look

L.L. Bean: Guaranteed to Last

A Privileged Life

Preppy by Banks and La Chappelle

Seven Sisters Style

Ralph Lauren: The Man Behind the Mystique

True Style by Boyer

Take Ivy

Filthy Rich Handbook

True Prep

The Ivy Look

Tipsy in Madras

The WASP Mystique

The Yuppy Handbook

The Handbook of Style

Untold Friendships by Parsons

Who Killed Society by Amory

Black Ivy: A Revolt in Style

A Southern Belle Primer

New Times in the Old South

Why Scarlett is in Therapy

Tara’s Going Condo

Being Dead is No Excuse

Miss Julia series

Take Ivy

Preppy by Jeffrey Banks

Stuff White People Like by Christian Lander

The Millionaire Next Door

Books

The Country House Library

The Secret History

Class by Paul Fussell

Boring Bourgeoisie by David Brooks

Taste by Stanley Tucci

In the Weeds by Tom Vitale

Our Country Friends by Gary Shteyngart

The Sentence by Louise Erdrich

Capote’s Women by Laurence Learner

Harlem Shuffle by Colson Whitehead

Femlandia by Christina Dalcher

The Family by Naomi Krupitsky

Primates of Park Avenue by Wednesday Martin

The Last of the Southern Girls by Willie Morris

Gentlemen and Players by Joanne Harris

Franny and Zooey by JD Salinger

John Updike

The Heirs by Susan Rieger

Snobs by Julian Fellowes

The Palace Thief by Ethan Canin

Edith Wharton

This Side of Paradise by Fitzgerald

Revolutionary Road by Richard Yates

The Grass is Singing by Doris Lessing

The Spider’s House by Paul Bowles

John Cheever short stories

The Talented Mr. Ripley series by Patricia Highsmith

Prep by Curtis Sittenfeld

John Irving

The World According to Garp

The Hotel New Hampshire

The Cider House Rules

Our Town

People Like Us

The Country Club Murders by Julie Mulhern

The Two Mrs. Grenvilles by Dominick Dunne

Fates and Furies by Lauren Groffe

If We Were Villains by ML Rio

Drowning with Others by Linda Keke

Bunny by Mona Awad

White Fur by Jardine Libaire

All These Perfect Strangers by Elizabeth Klehfoth

Laura Child tea shop mysteries

Miss Pym Disposes by Josephine Tey

The Last of the Savages by Jay Mcinerney

The Finishing School by Joanna Goodman

The Lawrenceville Stories

The Gold Coast by Nelson DeMille

Lake of Dead Languages

Love and Glory by Robert Parker

The Rule of Four by Thomason and Caldwell

Commencement by J Courtney Sullivan

Paper Palace

Good Company

Mary Stewart

Eric by Doris Lund

Black Chalk by Christopher Yates

The Ninth House

The Campus Trilogy by David Lodge

Circle of Friends by Maeve Binchy

The Corrections by Jonathan Franzen

Laurie Colwin

Pretty in Plaid by Jen Lancaster

Colony by Anne Rivers Siddons

Bright Lights, Big City

The Goldfinch by Donna Tartt

The Swimmer by John Cheever

The Sisters by Babe Mortimer Paley

The Lives and Times of the Famous Cushing Sisters by David Grafton

Auchincloss

The Group by Mary McCarthy

A Separate Peace

Rebecca by Daphne DuMaurier

The Little Book of Hygge

The Secret Architecture of Our Nation’s Capitol

Our Kind of People by Lawrence Otis

Bonfire of the Vanities by Tom Wolfe

A Man in Full by Tom Wolfe

Sun Also Rises by Ernest Hemingway

A Farewell to Arms by Ernest Hemingway

Ordinary People by Judith Guest

Gatherings by Marina Rust

Fitzgerald books

Franny and Zooey

✅ Catcher in the Rye

Love Story

The Alexandrian Quartet

Lord of the Rings

Shakespeare

Homer

Dickens

A Room with a View by EM Forster

To Manor Born, to Manners Bred

✅ Little Women

The Last Convertible

Elements of Style by Wendy Wasserstein

John O Hara books

Appointment in Samara

Butterfield 8

Rage to Live

John Irving

David Sedaris

Margaret Atwood

God and Man at Yale

Less than Zero by Bret Ellis

Brideshead Revisited

Colin Harrison books

Thorn Birds

Marjorie Morningstar by Herman Wouk

The Group by Mary McCarthy

The Best of Everything by Rona Jaffe

Edith Wharton

Bright Lights, Big City

Jane Eyre

The Last Convertible

Harlot’s Ghost

The Secret History

The Age of Innocence

A Separate Peace

War and Peace

Nine Stories by J.D. Salinger

South of Broad

The Remains of the Day

Prep by Sittenfiel

The Swimmer by John Cheever

Mating Rituals of the North American WASP by Lauren Lipton

The Big House by George Howe Colt

The Second Home by Christina Clancy

Colony

Monkeys by Susan Minot

The Vacationers

The Dutch House by Ann Patchett

Sports

Polo

Sailing

Fencing

Rowing

Lacrosse

Golf

Tennis

Swimming

Squash

Silver Patterns

Francis I (showy, opulent, wants a full-time career and a Junior League board position and a family), gets on well with MIL who prefers Grand Baroque or Burgundy

Linens

Frontgate

Stationery

Cranes

Mrs. John L Strong

Palm Beach Papery (more affordable)

Augusta Joy Stationery

Makeup

Chanel Rouge Coco Gloss, 754

MAC Lipstick in Ruby Woo

Revlon Lipstick in Cherries in the Snow

Candy/Desserts

Guylian

Harbor Sweets

Butler’s

Charbonnel et Walker

See’s

Burdicks

Truffles

Nail Polish

OPI All Your Dreams in Vending Machines

OPI Bubble Bath

Essie Ballet Slipper

Essie Ladylike

OPI Big Apple Red

OPI Cajun Shrimp

OPI Funny Bunny

OPI Thrill or Brazil

OPI Not Really a Waitress

Cocktail Dresses

J Peterman

Adrianna Papell

BHLDN

Ralph Lauren

Bloomingdale’s

Neiman Marcus

Podcasts

In Plain Sight

99% Invisible

Radio lab

My dad wrote a porno

Cocaine and rhinestones

S town

This American life

Revisionist history with Malcolm Gladwell

WTF with Marc Maron

How I Built This

This Podcast will Kill You

Last Seen

Apartment

Fiesta ware

Hadley pottery

Lodge cast iron

Nordic ware

Rifle paper co rugs

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ssmedusainvestmentinc · 9 months

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Years ago, Peter Clothier thought proxy firms were counting shareholder votes incorrectly. His life fell apart after he reported it.

0 notes

nwdaldf-blog · 1 year

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Men’s Tailoring Shops in Chagrin, Ohio

Chagrin Falls, Ohio has a variety of men's tailoring options available for those looking for custom clothing or alterations. Here are some options to consider:

1. Peter DiBlasi Custom Tailoring - Peter DiBlasi is a highly skilled tailor located in Chagrin Falls who offers custom tailoring services for men's suits, shirts, and other clothing items. He is known for his attention to detail and ability to create clothing that fits perfectly.

2. R. Douglas Custom Clothier - R. Douglas is a custom clothier located in nearby Cleveland that offers a range of men's clothing options, including custom suits, shirts, and accessories. They work with clients to create clothing that fits their personal style and body type.

3. Top Shelf Custom Tailoring - Top Shelf is a custom tailoring shop located in nearby Solon that offers alterations and custom clothing options for men. They have a team of skilled tailors who can create custom suits, shirts, and other clothing items.

4. Alterations by Toni - Alterations by Toni is a tailoring shop located in nearby Aurora that offers alterations for men's clothing. They can alter suits, shirts, pants, and other clothing items to ensure a perfect fit.

When selecting a men's tailor, it's important to consider their experience, quality of work, and customer service. It's always a good idea to read reviews and ask for recommendations from friends and family members to find a tailor that fits your needs.

For more info about Peter’s of Chagrin Falls, check out our honest review of Peter Stores

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krispyweiss · 4 years

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Doobies to Murray: Listen to the Lawyer; Murray to Doobies: Your Lawyer’s Funnier than Mine

The Doobie Brothers are - facetiously it seems - telling Bill Murray it’s time to listen to the lawyer.

And Murray - albeit less funnily - tells the Doobies the same while offering to meet for drinks.

The faux, out-of-court spat arises from Murray’s use of the Doobies’ “Listen to the Music” in commercials for the former’s line of golf apparel. It seems what was once a vice is now a habit where Murray is concerned.

“It’s a fine song,” the band’s lawyer-cum-comedian wrote to the comedian-cum-clothier.

“I know you agree because you keep using it in ads for your Zero Hucks Given golf shirts. However, given that you haven’t paid to use it, maybe you should change the name to “Zero Bucks Given.’”

The attorney, Peter T. Paterno, got one step closer to his main point as he went on to say, “It seems like the only person who uses our clients’ music without permission more than you do is Donald Trump.”

Lest anyone think there’s a serious spat going on, Paterno closed his letter thusly:

“This is the part where I’m supposed to cite the United States Copyright Act, excoriate you for not complying with some subparagraph that I’m too lazy to look up and threaten you with eternal damnation for doing so. But you already earned that with those ‘Garfield’ movies. And you already know that you can’t use music in ads without paying for it.”

Murray’s attorney responded by offering golf shirts to each of the Brothers and said he hopes they can all have a drink together when the band launches its postponed-by-COVID-19 50th-anniversary in 2021.

“I would like to compliment you on finding levity in the law at a time when the world and this country certainly could use a laugh,” Alexander Yoffe wrote. “Your client’s demand was able to cut through the noise of the news cycle and remind us how much we all miss live music these days.”

9/26/20

#the doobie brothers #bill murray

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skippyv20 · 5 years

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Like MA history, I think many others have wiped their own...😊❤️❤️❤️❤️

So, here’s where I’m stuck: Lindsay’s father is Andrew B. Roth. There is a Peter Roth who is CEO of WB Studios- DD pointed us to him- but I can’t find the documented connection between the two.

And, Sukey Roth, who ran the Roth Family Foundation, is descendant from the Louis B. Roth Clothier dynasty and is L.A. mayor Eric Garcetti’s mother. Again, can’t document the connection.

There is almost no biographical information on Andrew or Peter on the internet.

If the connection is there, then everything with a capital E makes sense...the whole dark mess...Am I just to dense to close the loop on this? 🤔😳😫

#Ask Skippy #submission

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abbydraper · 4 years

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Who Gets a Seat in Peter’s Cockpit?

The bios for this seasons’ Bachelor contestants went live today and I just can’t help myself. My justification for this round is that ABC is finally back to giving me what I want... more than just a “job” title and an age. Yep, this season we are getting the full on, horribly written bios. Which means I have so much more to work with.

Alayah (unsure of pronunciation)

After failing 3 times before, Alayah (unsure of pronunciation) was finally crowned Miss Texas this year. And she really likes talking about it. The Bachelor franchise interns that wrote this bio also added a teaser that, “familiar faces” might resurface proving that Alayah (unsure of pronunciation) is batshit, and like, we already had this drama with Caelynn and Hannah last season, so no thank you. She claims her favorite social media platform is Reddit and I hope we learn that she goes deep on Reddit conversations about romantic relationships with wildlife animals, or something.

Avonlea (not a real name)

Cattle Rancher by day, runway model by night, Avonlea (not a real name) shares that every time she milks one of her cows, she thanks it for its hard work. That would be like me kissing my laptop any time I finished a press release. Except less strange. She also claims that in her spare time she likes snuggling up by the fire to listen to a good audiobook and I’m interpreting this as an admission that she can’t read.

Alexa (can you not start fights this season? Get it, that’s an Alexa joke)

Alexa wants us to know that she decided to move to Chicago during a game of heads or tails, and I’m assuming that’s to make us think she’s adventurous and up for anything, but her hometown is Springfield, Ill. and when I Google map the distance between the two cities, it’s a three hour drive. I made the decision to move 3,000 miles away over a mid-day FaceTime with my boss and have never included that in a bio when looking for love. She’s going to require a lot of attention and I’m already annoyed.

Courtney

Courtney is proud to be a Florida girl, “through and through” which isn’t something anyone should find pride in. She has had a lot of plastic surgery, but is wearing a cross necklace over a mock turtleneck tank top in her Bachelor photo which means she’s boring to talk to, but makes up for it generously in the bedroom.

Deandra

Why are all of these women from Texas? Was it the last place on the audition city tour? Anyway, Deandra describes herself as an “independent, intelligent” woman, which translates the same way as when a guy describes himself as “funny” on a dating app... no way it’s true. She is a self-proclaimed “famers market aficionado” and that’s not a thing.

Eunice (also not a name, but could be an allergy medication)

Eunice (also not a name, but could be an allergy medication) really wants to rid herself of the party girl reputation but when asked her favorite country, she responded with “Greece” because she can knock back ouzo like it’s water, so she’ll be the first to chug a bottle of champagne and make a bad joke about Peters cockpit. Kind of like I did in the title of this post.

Hannah Ann (I really hate when people have two first names)

Hannah Ann (I really hate when people have two first names) looks like she was on a show on the WB called “Teenage Darkness” that was canceled after one season and likely could have been as she still lives at home with her parents. Her “home” (room at her parents) is decorated with artwork that she painted herself. The background on my phone is a picture of me, so I have no room to judge. But I am.

Jade

Like 80% of the other contestants, and The Bachelor himself, Jade is a flight attendant. Unlike other flight attendants, Jade claims she is afraid of heights. What a risk taker. She is also a mormon and was divorced at age 22 so there’s a lot to unpack here. No travel pun intended.

Jasmine

In a single paragraph, we learn that Jasmine wants a guy that can do the impossible (bring her Chick-Fil-A on a Sunday), build her a table, give her babies (but not until they’ve traveled the world together) and doesn’t play video games. Pretty specific list of “musts” from a guy who wears a bandaid on his forehead and gets off to windmills.

Jenna

I feel like Jenna and Peter are this seasons Ben H. and Lauren B. He’ll fall hard, but wonder if she’s too quiet and reserved and she’ll spend a lot of time telling him she’s super fun while actually being incredibly boring. She has a pet goldfish named George, the most boring name on the planet, and she believes that George, her pet goldfish, gives great advice. That’s all the proof I need to validate my assumptions.

Kiarra

She is a self-proclaimed social butterfly who loves shopping, fashion, style and social media. So she’s here for the Fab, Fit, Fun + Fit Tea Instagram deals.

Katrina

Katrina has a hairless cat (her words, not mine) that she does everything with. She claims that she dressed up like her hairless cat for Halloween and I need to see what that looks like. Or maybe I don’t. The cat is named after her favorite Disney princess and at age 28 I don’t think someone should have a favorite Disney princess. Her mom is worried about her biological clock ticking and I think she should be more concerned that Katrina brings her “hairless cat” with her to birthday parties.

Kelley

Kelley needs a man to take care of her, and her most recent relationship was an “international long distance” lover that paid for her to go to Jordan to see him once or twice a month. So, she had a sugar daddy. She decided to end it because she “couldn’t see herself moving to the Middle East”. Which reads, she found out she was on The Bachelor and had to call it off... for now. She has been to 26 countries, so I’m guessing Mr. Jordan wasn’t her first SD.

Kelsey

Kelsey is a “professional clothier” in Iowa and that’s not a real thing. She claims she’s had relationship issues in the past but Pilates cured that right up. She says she’s not looking for drama, which means she will cry a lot this season. I hope it doesn’t ruin that spray tan and smokey eye look.

Kylie

Kylie is an entertainment sales associate in Santa Monica, which means she probably passes out fliers for nightclubs on the Santa Monica Promenade during the day and is a bottle service girl in Hollywood at night, in hopes that she will be “discovered”. She is looking for that “rom-com kind of love” which translates to auditioning for The Bachelor and then dating in the franchise pool for press when it doesn’t happen with Peter.

Lauren

The most important part of Lauren’s bio is that she conducts exit interviews with all of her exes to find out what went wrong. Imagine that. Your boyfriend comes over to break up with you and you’re like, “I understand. Are you free Thursday between 1 - 2 so I can document when you became unhappy in this role and why? Want to make sure the next person we hire (I date) doesn’t face the same challenges” and him responding with, “Oh yea, totally. See you at 1:30, Thursday.” I’m pretty sure if I called an ex and asked for a SWOT analysis on our relationship he would say, “Abby, this is exactly the reason things didn’t work out.”

Lexi

Lexi would rather be buried alive than trapped in a room full of frogs. That’s it. The thought of being buried in the ground, alive and breathing, is more appealing to her than being in a room of small amphibians for a short amount of time. Sounds like a ball of fun.

Madison

Madison really wants you to know that she loves basketball. She would even rather rock a pair of Jordan’s (I think those are basketball shoes) than heels. She also loves Jesus. A lot. And if Peter doesn’t, it will be a technical foul for their love. Sports jokes, am I right?

Maurissa (not how you spell Marissa)

Maurissa (not how you spell Marissa) broke up with her long-term boyfriend, moved to Atlanta and lost 80 pounds. She will be the one that works out in the morning instead of having a mimosa with the other girls. She says if she hits it off with Peter right away, she plans on going hard, so she’ll be the one to steal him away during every other conversation. She’ll probably make him feel her newfound biceps, too.

Megan

Another flight attendant joins the season. This one has aspirations of visiting Zion which is literally a 5 hour drive from San Francisco, where she lives. Dream big, Megan. I see her making it to hometowns and since her mom is her best friend, she’s going to put Peter through the ringer which will be very difficult for their relationship. Do you think I’ve watched a season or two of this show? Megan also looks like a hybrid of every Bachelorette this franchise has ever had.

Mykenna

Mykenna is barely out of college and has only been in one relationship, so this will be tough for us all to endure. She is a fashion blogger which isn’t a real job, from Canada, who has a BHAG of starting a charity. For what, we don’t know. Her grandfather proposed to her grandmother after their first date. All of this wrapped up in one person means a lot of tears will be shed.

Natasha

An event planner from New York (who in New York isn’t an event planner?) Natasha loves her legs and her back because she has a cross and a dagger tattoo there. What do you think inspires someone to get a cross and a dagger tattooed on their legs all the way up to their back? Real question.

Payton (not how you spell this name)

1. “Payton (not how you spell this name) is the type of woman who goes into a bar alone and leaves with 100 new best friends”. No she doesn’t.

2. Payton (not how you spell this name) found out she had a fifth sibling, “thanks to some serious Facebooking”. No she didn’t.

3. Payton (not how you spell this name) currently lives in her parents’ basement. That explains why she included 1 + 2 in her bio.

Sarah

I put my thousands of hours watching every iteration on this show that Sarah is in the final three. She is the Whitney B. of Chris Soules’ season. Like, exactly. Job in medicine, sweet looking blonde, thoughtful and targeted responses to bio questions... calling it now.

Savannah

Savannah has done her research on what makes Bachelor Nation contestants famous, post show. She claims she enjoys shopping at Revolve, a brand that thrives on leveraging former suitresses as influencers. See: JoJo, Kaitlyn, Hannah G., Caelynn, Caila and other misspelled names from Bachelor seasons past. Her indulgence is Vampire Facials, a trend also posted to IG stories from the aforementioned. She refers to herself as the “turtle princess” and I hope that means what I desperately need it to mean.

Shiann

In her bio, she claims her dating history includes men with wives, men that ghost her and men that like her friends more than they like her. Sounds like Las Vegas (where she lives) to a tee. She will not make it past night one.

Sydney

Sydney is coming onto the show with a broken heart. Her favorite holiday is Valentine’s Day and her hobbies including planning fantasy vacations for her and her unknown future husband. She will absolutely come out of the limo with a cupcake and a poorly written poem for Peter, that he won’t remember.

Tammy

Tammy wanted so desperately to be on the mens wrestling team in high school, that when they told her no, she just showed up to all of their practices until they let her...wrestle. She will be interrupting one-on-one time when she’s not supposed to and show up to Peters hotel room unannounced more than once this season. Tammy also has a vanity license plate and the combination of all of this is just too much for me to think about.

Victoria F. (apparently there is more than one Victoria this season)

She wants it to be known that she likes a man that cries in public and I already do not relate. She also responded to her bio questions with run on sentences so again, I do not relate. Good luck, Victoria F.

Victoria P. (the second Victoria it seems)

I’m fairly certain I’ve seen Victoria P. in a porn, but either way, she leads with losing her father at a young age, her mother and sister struggling with drug addiction and her boyfriend cheating on her, but she states that nothing upsets her more than finding raisins in her cookies. Like, despite it all, dried grapes really piss Victoria P. off. Priorities.

What are your thoughts after reading the bios? Will you watch this season? Tell me everything.

#thebachelor #thebachelorabc #funny #comedy #reallitytv #peterthepilot #bios #didishavemylegsforthis #comedywriting

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katzenkrallen-blog · 5 years

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Article - Fashion (000a72e)

Trend Museum, Tub Welcome To The Trend Museum With each New 12 months comes an array of recent fads and styles. The style trade is seeing how 3D printing know-how has influenced designers equivalent to Iris Van Herpen and Kimberly Ovitz These designers have been heavily experimenting and developing 3D printed couture pieces. Folks in the future will snort at some fashion trends of at the moment. 1a(1) : the prevailing type (as in costume) during a specific time The spring fashions are now on display. 2. Gown Designs - Costume Design preserve an important function in every individual life. Another a type of unfortunate differing styles of vogue accessories in the stores are devices. He notes that wholesome Australian brands - equivalent to sleepwear label Peter Alexander and stationary chain Smiggle - have defined a niche product line. Such trend traits get popularised through media. These shoes are available in numerous styles and women put on it for various occasions. With the advent of this, the style design has come up as an enormous business in the nation and persons are exhibiting extra variety coming not solely from the urban centre but additionally from the very inside part of the nation. It's a must to understand your body and costume for it. The people who have the best style perceive what they seem like. The legendary clothier — who created the wrap gown and stays an icon within the trade (she's also President of the Council of Trend Designers of America) — picks the 5 TED talks which have inspired her most. As a result, the mid-market retailers - brands resembling David Lawrence, Rhodes & Beckett, and Herringbone - have suffered the most. Spanish chain Zara is all but synonymous with fast trend, serving as an exemplar of the way to reduce the time between design, production, and supply. They're into makeup, foot wear, jewellery, and other style equipment like watch, tops and bangles to goggles. People give particular orders to furnishings designers to make furnishings in accordance with their inside ornament of the home. Overall it appears to be like set to be a very outgoing and vibrant 12 months for hair with a variety of celeb styles main the best way. All of us plan to look the best to make that gorgeous first impression wherever we go. Now flaunt your type by exploring via a diverse range of ladies clothes, blended and matched to align with the newest style trends. It has been the time when the style trade has undergone with most variety of shifts relating to the traits. In an effort to qualify as a haute couture home, a designer has to be part of the Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture and present a brand new assortment twice a year presenting a minimum of 35 totally different outfits every time. The Vogue Trade Constitution for Local weather Motion, with its Working Teams, will identify and amplify finest practices, strengthen present efforts, identify and address gaps, facilitate and strengthen collaboration amongst relevant stakeholders, and be a part of sources and share tools to enable the sector to realize its climate targets. Grade-A-Sneakers is an internet store that deals with numerous best quality branded shoes in addition to branded equipment like sunglasses, belts and clothes and so on. In style cuts might be simply maintainable medium size hair that may be accomplished in all kinds of kinds.

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putthison · 6 years

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Hertling Trouser Factory Looking to Close

Well, this post has aged poorly. Just two months after we published a story on how Hertling is still going strong, it looks like they may close their factory in Greenpoint, Brooklyn within the next few weeks.

Hertling, for those unfamiliar, is a legendary trouser manufacturer. Having started in 1925, they’ve been doing private label work for some of the clothing industry’s best names – Paul Stuart, Orvis, Sid Mashburn, and Billy Reid, along with many others. For value-minded shoppers, nothing really beats a pair of Hertling-made pants. J. Crew’s wool trousers run for $225, but they’re made in China and often constructed from mediocre materials. Hertling’s pants are made in New York City, of exceptional quality, and come in a variety of fits. Traditional clothiers such as Ben Silver offer them in fuller cuts; niche retailers such as Epaulet and Dapper Classics sell them in slimmer, more contemporary styles. For comparison, the next most popular option is Rota’s Italian-made trousers, but those cost $400 per pair – nearly twice the price of Hertling’s.

Much of the company’s success can be credited to Julius Hertling, who’s affectionately known to many in the trade as Julie. He’s been managing the family business since 1946, when he returned home after having served in WWII (he was in the US Army). His father, Morris, started the business.

Julie fought for his company during a time of tremendous change in the US. Americans now import most of their wardrobe from overseas. Fast fashion retailers have streamlined the production process and driven down costs, making it possible to buy pants for as little as $20. And it’s never been easier to comparison shop. Just open an Internet tab and you can find a million options for flat front chinos or simple button-ups. It’s been hard for domestic producers to compete in that environment – even top-end brands have shifted their production overseas in order to be price competitive – but the Hertling company has miraculously survived and even thrived for almost a hundred years.

Towards the end of Julie’s life, however, the factory started struggling. And when the new investors took over in the winter of 2016 – about a year before Julie’s death – they hoped to revive the plant and expand into direct sales. It’s hard to say for certain what’s happened (Hertling is, after all, still a private company), but the new owners have faced some important headwinds.

For one, Julie and his landlord were personal friends, so Julie was able to secure a particularly good lease for the factory. When he passed away, the landlord raised the rent. It’s still well below the neigborhood’s market rate, but about 25% higher than what Hertling was paying under Julie’s tenure.

Second, New York raised its minimum wage from $11/ hour to $13/ hour in 2017, and has plans to raise it again to $15/ hour by the end of this year. Justin Christensen, one of Hertling’s new owners, tells me this has cost the company an additional $100,000 a year in labor.

Third, Hertling may have been buoyed for a while by the revival of Americana and heritage-styled clothing. Back in the early aughts, consumers cared more about where their clothes were made. And as those fashion trends have waned, so has consumer loyalty. People are savvier now about comparison-shopping and they use the internet to find the best deals possible.

In some ways, this may be connected to the broader story about how the middle of the fashion market is collapsing – those brands that sit somewhere between the uber-luxury labels sold at Mr. Porter and fast fashion retailers such as Zara. As mid-tier brands struggle to survive, so have the factories that support them. Bill’s Khakis, who used to be admired for their $150 American made chinos, shut down their domestic production not too long ago and the company has been since restructured by a private equity firm. International Textile Group recently closed their Cone Mills White Oak plant in North Carolina, as they found the denim production there couldn’t be sustained in the face of increasing imports. And some of Hertling’s partners, such as Haberdash in Chicago, are no longer in business.

Lastly, the end of Hertling may just be a story about poor management. Justin Christensen admits that he’s learned a lot about business in the last eighteen months, particularly with regard to things such as managing cash flow and keeping a factory as lean as possible. In the next few weeks, he and his investors will be deciding on the factory’s future. They may close the Brooklyn factory; they may not. They may just turn the Hertling name into a clothing line, with the production done elsewhere. If that’s the case, the Greenpoint factory will close, but the Hertling name will remain as a ready-to-wear label.

Christensen tells me he’s still hopeful about American manufacturing, but only on the higher-end of the market. “I don’t think this is about the death of American manufacturing,” he says. “I’m confident you can still have US clothing factories, but they have to produce for the luxury-end of the market, where you see Italian factories currently operating. $200 for a pair of US-made trousers simply isn’t sustainable. The real price has to be closer to $300 to $350. That gives you enough room to pay for costs – labor, materials, and the bare basics of doing business – as well as give your retail partners some margins so they can eat.”

I talked to Epaulet and our sponsor Dapper Classics about what they plan to do if Hertling actually closes. Epaulet has already made plans to switch their trouser production to Southwick; Dapper Classics says they’re still waiting to see what happens. I also asked Mike Kuhle, co-founder of Epaulet, what he remembers most from his long-time friendship with Julie himself.

“Our weekly lunches at Peter Luger. It’s a Brooklyn steakhouse that sits right under Williamsburg Bridge. Julie and I went there every Tuesday to have lunch. It’s super expensive, very traditional, and extremely popular. But when Julie walked into the place, it was always like that scene from Goodfellas – everyone made way for him. It was always like ‘Hello, Mr. Hertling! Right this way, Mr. Hertling!’ The man had been going there every Tuesday for lunch for almost forty years. He had the same waiter; he always ordered the same food. We’d eat a heavy meal together, have some drinks, and talk. Sometimes he told old war stories, but he mostly loved talking about pants – Julie could talk to you forever about pants. He loved his work. He was an old-school garmento.”

Maybe one upside to this whole story: had Christensen and his investors not taken over the factory, Hertling as a company would have likely closed with Julie’s passing. At the time, no Hertling family members or outside parties were interested in taking it over. Everyone I talked to for this story agreed that, at least, the employees have been able to get another eighteen months of wages – and someone made a go at trying to keep a piece of American manufacturing still going.

In the meantime, readers can buy Hertling’s new old-stock through LuxeSwap. There are about 750 pants on sale right now, some for as little as $50 to $75, in a mix of about a hundred styles (many were originally produced as samples for tradeshows and come in old cuts). We’re told everything is first-quality, but all sales are final. There are some posts about it on Reddit and Ask Andy About Clothes.

#Hertling #Current Events #Epaulet #Dapper Classics #Politics

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