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kingsandbastardz · 4 months

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So for basically my whole life I'd grown up with and was resigned to accept that the chinese concept of formal/nice clothing of my and the previous generation has been western clothes. So at any awards ceremonies or performances, entertainers would show up mostly in western suits/dresses and maaaaaybe you'll spot the occasional cheongsam if they're going for a Wong Fei Hong vibe. Which, you know, kinda sucks if you have any concept of western cultural imperialism in asia.

So when the hanfu revivalist movement started, I was waiting to see when it would enter the mainstream -- my hope was for fashion designers to integrate traditional/dynastic elements into their work and make it common place enough that I can buy this shit online for ME. Because I WANT.

Though some of the designs can be a bit hit or miss, I am LOVING what various stars and entertainers are wearing out and about now.

Anyway - here's a collection of Xiao Shunyao's modern hanfu inspired/hybridized stage outfits from the last couple years. For his MLC performances, his stylists seem to be borrowing inspiration from his Di Feisheng and possibly other character costume silhouettes.

I'd been seeing a few comments about how his outfits play with gender - and some of his outfits do! But I think the interesting thing to discuss is from which standard is he playing with gender? Because from a western perspective, the things he does with his western suit tops, belting on top of the jacket for a tightly cinched waist, and the addition of a trailing skirt = femme. But if you're talking from a hanfu-hybridized pov, that's just a modern take on hanfu and having any of those elements is not inherently femme and would often read masc to me.

So these things aren't necessarily gendered because they exist traditionally in chinese men's clothing or costume designs (ie video games, comics, historical fiction illustrations and film, etc, so therefore in the modern lexicon of masculine/acceptable for men):

presence or lack of a skirt

silky, velvety, gauzy or sparkly material choice, esp in formal or stage clothing

short or long length of skirt

embroidery

flowers/floral/bird designs

folding fans

certain styles of makeup

beading, gold, tassels, jewels

non-chunky jewelry

headbands

widely flowing silhouettes

What XSY's stylists are doing with some western clothing items are interesting. I'm convinced there have been one or two western jacket tops made of thinner material that they're folding over the front, and belting down instead of buttoning (which then matches with his other outfits that are designed specifically to do this). Then they're adding a skirt, cloak or bracer element to it.

The western portions often bring a military minimalist feel which they balance with a more gauzy material in the skirt or cloak portions.

Things I think are playing with gender:

row 1 - image 1: red di feisheng-inspired outfit

The lace-up girdle is there to match the bracers in both material and style. And it's positioned to be similar to the heavy belt that Di Feisheng wears. HOWEVER. That style of girdle/corset-like clothing item can't be divorced from the modern idea of sexy leather corsets. So imo, this waist piece on that outfit was a choice. Especially when paired with his allergic-to-collars-higher-than-his-sternum necklines. And if you take into context how masculine yet female coded his character is in the drama, the whole look evokes that.

row 2, image 1: black western suit with belt on top, hat, cloak, black boots and not-visible but also a black tassel fringe skirt

Hat and cloak moves the intention of the outfit from western toward a more Asian slant, because alone, it looks like a western black suit with western heeled boots, cinched waist with a lady's belt (seated photoshoot) and western style tassel skirt. The suit top consists of a vest and a shrug-like sleeve portion that appears masculine at first glance. But take the shrug and pair it with the tassel skirt (I can't find the red carpet photos but here is a better view of the skirt when seated), and I think you got a look that's both intentionally edging toward the femme in a western sense but also confusing matters by hiding within the parameters of both western and chinese traditional male styling.

row 2 - image 2 : white asymetrical western jacket styled in a front fold-over style, gauze skirt, trailing pearl embellishments

The more traditional leaning version of this is the white outfit in row 3 that he wears to the Hi6 Hello Saturday variety show -- the skirt portion on that outfit is one I'd consider non-gendered. Row 1, images 2 and 3 are examples of masculine/neutral uses of gauze that plays with flow of form but isn't inherently femme. This stage outfit is very western-appearing masculine suiting, until you hit the skirt which is giving me long ballerina tie-on skirt with the additional swan/mermaid pearl strings. Imo, another example of deliberately using traditional masculine styling but switching it up with the combination of material choice and make that is feminine.

row 2, image 3: black space military boots, black suiting, black -silver ombre sequin trailing skirt and white gauzy shawl with black floral design

The over all design is going for a masculine military-feel. (think this outfit for shen langhun) But instead of a thicker military cloak, it's replaced with a woman's gauze shawl and a skirt that trails behind him very much like the back of a woman's formal fish-tail gown when he moves around. If you take into context Wang Herun's outfit is a white-silver sequined dress cut in a way to also give a space-military-queen vibe, imo they both coordinated their outfits to balance out with both femme and masc qualities.

Thoughts? I'm curious what others think about this.

While I wait for the CNY photoshoot for XSY's red and black look, here's him with his stage collaborators with a nice range of skirt lengths, period influences and material choices. The woman in the center is the one with the most military-fighter design out of the bunch. The dudes are all in variations of formal-wear-with-good-kicking-boots (and lots of crotch space).

#xiao shunyao #mysterious lotus casebook cast #my royal ramblings #fashion #chinese fashion #gendered fashion in cultural context

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ziseviolet · 5 months

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Ziseviolet’s 2023 Tumblr Top 10

1. 2,297 notes - Jan 1 2023

Q: Can you explain the difference between hanfu and huafu?

2. 1,208 notes - Jun 26 2023

Q: How did Han women manage their menstrual cycle historically?

3. 1,104 notes - Nov 21 2023

“Chinese style meets the Matrix”-esque looks.

4. 454 notes - Aug 21 2023

Q: The intricate "eye patches" seemingly made from gold or metal that cover only one eye - do they have a name or is it something made up?

5. 278 notes - Feb 15 2023

Paintings of couples in Chinese hanfu.

6. 266 notes - Feb 19 2023

Q: How to distinguish fake/knockoff clothes sold online, so we can buy hanfu from official brands and support the designers.

7. 162 notes - Oct 23 2023

Qipao/cheongsam Taobao shop recs.

8. 145 notes - Feb 27 2023

Vent.

9. 141 notes - Mar 13 2023

Q: It’s better to change "modernized hanfu" into "hanfu theme modern dresses" because most of those are Western dresses with Chinese elements.

10. 136 notes - May 30 2023

Q: What type of clothes did Chinese maids wear? Did they wear ruqun styles and wear their hair in two buns?

See previous years here.

Created by TumblrTop10

#happy 2024!#tumblrtop10 #2023 #hanfu #ziseviolet #personal #chinese fashion #chinese culture #china #s

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badartmada · 3 months

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this is going to be long, bear with me. so, does yang's skin look yellow in the top two photos? when i had first finished these pictures yang looked fine, imo. i wanted her to be more tan (closer to what im going for with her dad's skin tone) but shifting from my ipad to my computer made me re-evaluate. so i shifted her skin tone to that of the bottom two pictures, that look a bit better to me. it could be that im simply seeing the picture with new eyes, i stopped looking at the piece for a while. but id like opinions on it. okay, on to the outfits.

Top Row

i took quite a bit of inspiration from an old concept art for the vol 1 look, where yang was wearing a tan jacket. i really like the dark brown on her canon look, i feel like it makes the yellows on her pop a lot, but i wanted to try the tan look with some darker boarder colors on the jacket.

the vol 2 alternate outfit is, imo, 10 outta 10 no notes

her dance outfit...i tried for a very light yellow cheongsam inspired dress (took inspo from some wedding shops i found online) and originally i was gonna give her a dragon design. she is a sunny little dragon after all. but i didnt like any of the dragons i drew, so i did this pattern inspired by some floral designs i found.

Bottom Row

tbh i wasnt sure what i wanted to do with the vol 4 - 6 outfit. i always found it kind of boring tbh. i tried the mismatched pant legs and put the long orange sock back because i feel like part of yang was working on regaining some part of herself. i never liked the long...flaps she had so i didnt add them. i did another variant with a duller brown jacket (its leather in my head) cause shes still struggling.

this is my 3rd fav outfit for yang in canon and i didnt change much, tho i got rid of the black...idk what that, ig ill call it a belt add-on doesnt feel like it adds anything to me. the only other thing i did was that i added the purple handkerchief into her open leg slit. its great.

just a casual outfit. very simple and now that i think about it, perhaps the pattern should have been on her top cause its looking king of blank to me. not sure if i like the black socks or the yellow socks better.

#artists on tumblr #rwby #yang xiao long #character design #artist on tumblr #rwby fanart #fanart tag

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blairstein70 · 1 month

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paintedbirdnz · 3 months

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konveksibajuwanitakekinian · 3 months

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vintage-connoisseur-forever · 1 year

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alpirofenz · 2 years

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Cheap wedding gown rental in Singapore

The gown itself is one piece that complements the gleaming bride. Shopping for wedding gowns in Singapore may be challenging, particularly if you pay specific attention to the sticker prices. This is why, while buying on a budget, it's crucial to have an inquisitive mind.

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Attend trunk shows and keep an eye out for bargains.

For the most up-to-date information about trunk shows and sales, subscribe to or just like your favorite wedding salon's website or Facebook page. Trunk shows, which often offer special on new releases, are also a good place to look for bargains.

Online shopping

They aren't made to your exact measurements and may appear different from the photos on the website.

Tie it up.

As the wedding day approaches, let's say you've lost (or acquired) some fat. A bustier lace-up back may be adjusted or loosened to fit your form rather than shipping your gown to be changed.

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anneliao · 2 years

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Baisha: [email protected]/ WX:15989081871 Design & Couture Dress & Prom Dress & Evening Dress & Wedding Cheongsam & Qipao for the Wedding / Party / Pageant ...... Support small wholesale, online means of wholesale, OEM custom, ODM custom, custom LOGO, foreign trade orders, instead of sending a box, support the distribution agent. https://www.instagram.com/p/CiqJNtWjB4w/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

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madamshanghai · 2 years

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#madamshanghai #Cheongsam dress online #Luxury Custom Qipao #Custom Occasion Wear #MODERN CHEONGSAM/QIPAO

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sebastianshaw · 4 years

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Did you know marvel once hired a porn artist (no kidding, you can look up Manara if you want) to draw a kitty pryde story?

Oh my god I did not! I’m looking him up now. I never read that story but I remember the art style from seeing scans online, it’s very distinct. I’m of two minds, basically? Like I don’t think someone shouldn’t be hired to draw mainstream work just because they also have made a name drawing erotic work. If you can draw, you can draw. Same reason I don’t think someone shouldn’t be allowed to write mainstream novels just because they write erotic work. But the problem is that like...you do need to make some adjustment in how you draw (poses, faces, etc) when you make that transition. It’s the same way that describing every woman’s boobs is fine in an erotic novel but should really not be happening in anything else. And looking at the art he did for X-Men....

...yeah, adjustsments were NOT made. Wow.

Yes, this is EXACTLY how women pose with each other naturally when we hang, we arch our backs uncomfortably and always make sure our asses are all facing the same direction. This does not look like a porn photoshoot AT ALL. Like god, it’s just...it’s not the sexiness here that bothers me, it’s how UNNATURAL it looks. These don’t look like hot ladies legitimately just having a good time in an organic way at all, this looks completely stilted, like there’s some photographer telling them exactly how to bend and what face to make and they’ve been doing this for hours. It doesn’t look like a fun sexy scene, it looks like...well, what it is, a man who is used to drawing women only for porn, trying to draw them having fun in a sexy way but isn’t used to drawing what that actually looks like, he’s used to drawing women posing for the benefit of a reader who is turning the pages with one hand, and it ends up looking really unnatural and, if you forgive the word, stiff. Ironically, it would have probably been much more sincerely sexy if it had been drawn with them NOT twisting at these angles and making porn faces, and just looked more natural instead. Women are much hotter when they just look like people having a good time and not carefully posed blow-up dolls. Also I am VERY concerned about what is happening with Storm and that pilot?! Also, looking at other pages, he’s clearly not used to drawing action sequences at all? Or combat sequences, I should say?

Like, it’s not just about it being objectifying or Storm’s ass, it’s...okay, look at Rogue’s position on the rock, look at how she’s standing. Or look at Kitty’s body when she kicks that guy, or when Psylocke punched that dude with her butt hanging out There’s no real sense of FORCE or dynamism or energy in those poses at all. He’s trying to pose them as normal women, or even DAINTILY, and that...doesn’t work for these characters or these scenes. I understand this, I also cannot draw physical combat at all, it takes a real ability to put this certainly “energy” into it or it looks very stiff and weak like this, but like...I wasn’t hired to do a SUPERHERO comic! The unfortunate thing is I do like his style. Like, I like this!

I could do without Emma’s porn face of course, but everything else I like? I enjoy how it looks like a retro novel cover, and the colored pencil look is something rare and distinct in the age of digital art AND IT LOOKS BEAUTIFUL. The man is NOT a bad artist. And even within the X-story, there are good things-- I love the outfits he gave the girls when he WASN’T focusing on making them OMG SO SEXY?

Like, these are fun and interesting and individual. I don’t like that he seems to have just gone for the ‘sexy short cheongsam” cliche for the Asian character (especially since Betsy isn’t even in a CHINESE body, Kwannon is JAPANESE and that’s a Chinese dress ffs) but everyone else’s is frankly great. They all show different styles and personality types and I could see each lady picking that look. And, yes, they’re all short and sexy dresses or, in Rogue’s case, skintight pants. Sexiness is truly not my problem here. I love this. So clearly, he CAN think about these girls as people, he didn’t just slap the same lazy tiny basic miniskirts/dresses on them all like some artists would, he took the time to design these individual and fitting looks and that really just makes his treatment of them elsewhere that much more disappointing. I also notice they have flat boots in their costumes, which surprises me, this seems like a guy who would insist on combat stilettos. Also...Medusa...what are you doing...

Oh, and turns out HE drew the infamous dog bone body Spider-Woman. Welp.

Honestly, maybe it’s petty, but it just makes me UPSET as someone who tries my very hardest, to see artists who have this INCREDIBLE level of talent---like there is genuine beauty here, he has loads of skill I do not---use it like THIS. The problem isn’t drawing porn, I would probably draw porn if I had the ability not to make it look massively stupid (it’s the same issue as combat, really) it’s that you can LOOK at his non-porn work and go....yeah, this looks like porn DX

#manara #art rant #out of shirt #wow #badmusesdoitwell

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ziseviolet · 4 years

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Ziseviolet’s Hanfu Q&A Masterpost Part 2

=== See Part 1 here! ===

Buying Hanfu & Hanfu Accessories, Part 2 (Part 1 in Pt.1 of Masterpost):

Shops that sell Hanfu w/natural fabrics

Where to find Hanfu for pageants

Hanfu from Aliexpress with right side over left

Hanfu brand Qinghuige’s Taobao page

Where to buy crane-print skirts

Where to commission high-quality screen-accurate Hanfu

How to find Hanfu for BJDs

What Hanfu is suitable for high-tea event

Black & white Hanfu with stripes

Navigating my tumblr:

How to navigate tags on my tumblr

Hanfu in films/dramas/animations:

Hanfu in television dramas

Hanfu in “The Empress of China"

Hanfu in “The Rise of Phoenixes” - Pt 2

Hanfu in “Mo Dao Zu Shi” - Part 2

Where to buy clothing similar to that from “The Untamed”

Hanfu in “Eternal Love"

Historically accuracy of hanfu in xianxia dramas (e.g. Eternal Love)

Historical accuracy of the clothes in the film “The Myth”

Hanfu in “Court Lady/Li Ge Xing”

Hanfu in “Consort Meng Arrives”

Significance of flowers in skirts & floral tattoos in “Consort Meng Arrives”

Historical accuracy of flowers in back of dress in "Consort Meng Arrives”

Historical accuracy of floral tattoos in “Consort Meng Arrives”

Identifying actresses in Huadian compilation

Recs for historically/stylistically accurate Chinese drama

My cdrama recommendations - Part 2, Part 3

Are there any fictional dramas/films about people in modern day choosing to wear Hanfu

Have I seen Zhang Yimou’s film “Shadow”

Bedlahs in cdramas

Mulan (general):

Inspiration for designing Mulan costumes

Disney’s animated Mulan film:

Accuracy of Hanfu in “Mulan”

Is Mulan wearing Waist-high Ruqun

Disney’s live-action Mulan film:

Historical accuracy of Mulan’s matchmaker outfit

How I feel about the costuming

What time period the film is set in - Part 2, Part 3

Are the costumes & makeup accurate for the dynasty

My thoughts on the historical accuracy of film - Part 2

Is Mulan Hakka based on architecture

Hanfu Revival Movement:

What direction I think the Hanfu Movement will take

The motivations for the Hanfu Movement

How I feel about the inconsistency of the Hanfu Movement

Do I think Hanfu should have a standard style

Comparison with Kimono and Hanbok:

Comparing Hanfu & Kimono (padding)

Comparing Hanfu & Kimono inspired figure skating costumes

Comparing Hanfu & Hanbok (resources)

Identifying Hanfu models:

Who is Coser小梦

Who is 玖柯9k

Who is 尤小棋

Who is 宫寒Ghan

Wearing Hanfu & Hanfu Accessories as someone who is not Chinese:

Non-Chinese wearing Hanfu - Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, Part 5, Part 6, Part 7, Part 8, Part 9, Part 10, Part 11, Part 12, Part 13, Part 14, Part 15, Part 16, Part 17, Part 18, Part 19, Part 20, Part 21

Non-Chinese wearing Weimao - Part 2, Part 3

How I feel about people from other cultures taking interest in/wearing hanfu

Connecting with other Hanfu lovers:

Where to connect with other Hanfu lovers online

Recs for Hanfu Youtube channels

Chinese animation (Donghua):

My donghua recommendations

Hanfu in games:

Hanfu in Love Nikki dress-up game

Hanfu & art:

Drawing Hanfu respectfully

Artists online that do Hanfu-related art

Qing dynasty fashion:

What do I think about Qing dynasty clothing compared to that of previous dynasties?

Clothing/hair culture of the Qing dynasty

Can Qing dynasty clothing be considered Hanfu?

Qing dynasty & modern day Hanfu

Qing dynasty Hanfu

Qing dynasty nail guards

Scarves of Qing dynasty concubines - Part 2

Qing dynasty hairstyles

Resources for Manchu women’s board-like hairstyle during Qing dynasty

Clothing in Cdrama “Nothing Gold Can Stay”

Qipao/Cheongsam & Republican era/Minguo fashion:

Why is Qipao/Cheongsam not considered Hanfu? - Origin of Qipao

Historical differences between Hanfu & Qipao

Recs for Qipao Taobao shops

Non-Chinese wearing Cheongsam

Clothing in Cdrama “Legend of Fragrance” - Part 1, Part 2, Part 3

Other Asian fashion blog recs:

Kimono blog recs

Hanbok blog recs - Part 1, Part 2

Vietnamese fashion blog recs - Part 2

China’s ethnic minorities fashion blog recs

Chinese Opera:

Do Chinese opera costumes count as Hanfu?

What type of clothing do Beijing opera actors wear?

Chinese Music & Instruments:

Resources for Chinese OST-sounding tracks

Gufeng music recommendations

Tumblr blogs about Chinese instruments

Resources on how to play Chinese flute (dizi) - Part 2

Chinese Language:

How to name Chinese characters

Using tattoos of Chinese script for a character

Personal:

What started my interest in Hanfu

Do I wear Hanfu myself

What Hanfu do I own - Part 2

My favorite dynasty - Part 2

How I came about my Hanfu/hairstyles knowledge

What my username means

Have I watched “The King’s Woman”

Have I watched “Nezha”

Chinese Heritage:

Learning about Chinese background as part-Chinese

Misc:

Dior mamianqun controversy

History of foot binding - Did foot binding involve all women in China

Basing clothing designs on Hanfu in graphics novels

What is “Gufeng”

Mixing styles from different eras for a fantasy China setting

Identifying location of beautiful snowy photoset

Mythology-related content

Matchmaking in ancient China

Courtesans in ancient China

Where to watch Huafu Day show

Chinese architecture blog recs - Part 2

Ancient Chinese houses’ furniture & interiors

Chinese landscape/scenery blog recs

Modern Chinese fashion magazines

Identifying glutinous rice balls (Tangyuan)

(image via)

#hanfu #reference #masterpost #replies #chinese fashion #china #>100

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audreydoeskaren · 2 years

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Hello I hope you are doing well and I found a book that may be interesting to you. It is called "In the Mood for Cheongsam" by Chor Lin Lee and Chung May Khuen, which talks about the origins and evolution of the qipao/cheongsam. As well as talking about in the social context of Singapore and includes terms that are specifically Singaporean. As well as pictures wearing them in everyday life and events. I will love to see a post relating to this and you can find a free full online copy on issuu

Link to the book

Hi, thanks for the recommendation. Just by reading the preface of the book I can tell that it fell for a lot of stereotypes and misconceptions, but the images are wonderful and I appreciate that it investigates the perspective of Singaporean Chinese women.

Preface

In the preface, Lee describes the cheongsam as a feminized version of the Manchu male long robe, which is a highly disputed view in fashion history discourse. The origins of cheongsam are truly unclear and it's very likely that the many theories attributing it to Manchu fashion were invented after its popularization. She also mentions that mainland Chinese women avoided wearing cheongsam in the period from 1950 to 1989, which is a myth and simply not true. It would be more or less correct to point out that the popularity of cheongsam waned in the 70s due to the Cultural Revolution, but in the 50s and 60s it was incredibly common in mainland China as normal fashion, and in the 80s as ceremonial attire.

Introduction

There is so much to unpack in the introduction. The authors believe that the cheongsam was worn as early as 1919, and that it was based on the men's changshan, which was in turn based on... magua? This is a new take I've never seen before, and I can't say that I'm happy to see it. The magua was a men's riding coat and was a different garment to the standard Manchu long robe worn underneath. The Manchu long robe was the predecessor of changshan, and it had existed since the beginning of the Qing, its principal differences to Republican era men's changshan being the lack of a standing collar and the optional addition of "horse hoof" cuffs. Returning to the date of cheongsam's appearance, I have not yet seen any visual evidence of cheongsam (as worn by Han women) from 1919. There were singular images from the early 20s but certainly not extensive enough to suggest that it had already become a mainstream garment. I think the perception that cheongsam was around in the late 10s/early 20s largely stems from artistic representations of the May Fourth Movement made in the 50s and 60s by PRC artists, who either out of choice or ignorance misrepresented 1919 women's fashion. The image attached for this section is of a woman in cheongsam from the late 20s, but to my knowledge cheongsam did not appear widely before the mid 20s and Chinese women's fashion changed greatly throughout this decade. The authors would have to attach an image of a Han woman in cheongsam from 1919 to convince me.

1918 fashion.

Artwork “May Fourth Movement” by Zhou Lingzhao, 1951, showing women in incorrect historical clothing.

The authors assign quite some significance to the elimination of trousers in womenswear, which I don't quite understand. It was never compulsory for women to wear trousers prior to the invention of cheongsam, it was perfectly fashionable to wear skirts. This likely stems from their assumption that the cheongsam evolved from Manchu dress, where trousers would be worn underneath the robe. For a Manchu woman who usually wears trousers underneath the robe, wearing none would probably be radical and revolutionary, but for Han women who did not wear trousers underneath skirts in the 1910s to begin with, it would not be very big of a deal. That is not to mention how trousers could indeed be worn under cheongsam, many women did as a fashion choice in the late 20s and early 30s.

1931 issues of Ling Long magazine, showing pants underneath cheongsam and aoqun. Illustrated by Ye Qianyu.

The term "full length stockings" confuses me, as it evokes the image of tights, which didn't exist until the 60s. Stockings were worn in the 1910s, under trousers and skirts alike. The authors later imply that the wearing of aoku or blouse and trousers ensembles was an indicator of domesticity and conservative customs, completely neglecting the fact that aoku was working class attire because it was easy to work in, while cheongsam was not. I have a feeling that the authors have a rather unusual perception of class and what constitutes as “working women”, since in the later chapter the “working women” they describe are really urban white collar women, not actual lower class women working in the fields or factories. Perhaps Singapore was more predominantly urban and middle class, but the practicality of aoku was an important factor in their popularity among women doing physical labor in mainland China, a much more prominent one than the reluctance to modernity that the authors imagined.

Mid century poster showing mainland peasant woman’s aoku. Would you say it’s easier to do farm work in this attire, or cheongsam?

I do have to say that I appreciate the correct dating of photographs up until now, it's very professional. The rest of the chapter discusses the social significance of cheongsam for Singaporean Chinese women and is fascinating to read. I'm not an expert on Singaporean history so I won't speculate.

Cheongsam 1950s to 70s

The first chapter opens with some context on women's rights in 1950s and 60s Singapore, before delving into the role of cheongsam in emancipation. A thing that causes some fashion history confusion is the way the authors describe the post war cheongsam as having "retained" the tight silhouette of the "New Look", despite the "New Look" being introduced in 1947, itself post war. Another thing I take issue with is in the same sentence, the way they label the pre-New Look cheongsam as a traditional Chinese garment that stood at odds to "tight fitting Western frocks", not taking into account the reality that cheongsam had always followed Western fashion silhouettes to some extent, and the reason why it wasn't tight fitting prior to 1947 is because Western high fashion wasn't so tight fitting prior to that either. Instead of a Chinese-Western dichotomy, it was an early 40s-late 40s dichotomy. Equating New Look tailoring with absolute modernity would be false, since modernity is relative to time and the tight fitting silhouette was simply the new fashion, the same way the short early 40s hems or tall early 30s collars were in their time.

In the ensuing pages, the authors refuse to stop describing the use of fashionable accessories as "updating" the cheongsam, creating the misconception of the cheongsam as a traditional, rock solid entity adamant to change that needs constant modernizing via Western influence, already treading in the territory of Orientalism. Cheongsam had always been paired with Western accessories, I struggle to see how that was a new invention of the 1950s.

1930s advert showing cheongsam with knit cardigan.

Reflecting on the earlier chapter, I realized that the authors failed to place cheongsam in its proper fashion history context or discuss changes to its cut and designs, and simply lumped pre-New Look cheongsam from the late 20s to the late 40s together as "loosely cut cheongsam". They also disregarded the coexistence of cheongsam and aoqun prior to the late 30s, again showing that they consider Chinese fashion to be abrupt switches in garment rather than continuous change of silhouette. To the authors, it was either aoqun or cheongsam for the modern woman, no in-betweens or overlaps allowed, and aoqun and aoku were simply symbols of olden times incapable of change that need to be gotten rid of for the sake of modernity. The lack of nuance is astounding.

1926 or 27 fashion, aoqun and cheongsam in the same silhouette.

The small section on page 76 titled “the cheongsam as a form of control” is rather bizarre and I'm not entirely sure how to unpack it. It’s saying that some women saw the cheongsam as a tool to control their body shapes (even going on diets in order to fit into them) and “enhance their femininity”. It’s a view I see regurgitated quite a lot in cheongsam discourse, and one that baffles me. To me, that sounds like the remarks someone would make when first discovering shapewear, like corsets and girdles, not cheongsam... It makes sense because cheongsam of the 1950s and 60s were indeed worn with shapewear, and to a woman who has only experienced cheongsam in the 50s and 60s, that was probably their entire perception of the garment and thus explaining their equating cheongsam with shapewear. Though in hindsight, from a fashion history perspective, cheongsam could have many different nuanced cuts and silhouettes. Conversely, you could also achieve this body controlling effect with a tight fitting Western sheath dress, as cheongsam was not the only garment that required shapewear at the time. The comment about the enhancement of femininity was actually made by a man, which is hardly surprising. The idea of a curvaceous cheongsam as a symbol of Eastern femininity is an Orientalist/misogynistic cliché popularized in the mid 20th century and one rooted in lack of knowledge about historical fashion, as well as sexualization and objectification of Asian women. I’m never quite a fan of gendering shaped pieces of fabric because it’s all so arbitrary and silly; I don’t see how a loosely cut, flowy 1930s cheongsam would be any less feminine than a 1950s one with sharp angles at the breasts and waist? Like, in the conventional perception of gender, wouldn’t hard angles be considered aggressive and not feminine?

Actress Bai Guang in a 1950s cheongsam with pointy breasts. Coupled with the arched eyebrows of this decade, I find this silhouette very assertive and harsh, not any more or less feminine than other styles of cheongsam. Femininity is in the eye of the beholder I guess.

Concluding remarks

Overall I’d say the analysis in this book is very representative of conventional narratives in cheongsam discourse, taking it out of fashion history context and erasing aoqun/aoku and all that. When it’s a book dedicated to the “social meanings” of cheongsam, these kinds of fashion history misunderstandings are unavoidable. I would suggest to not read social history for the study of fashion history, particularly Chinese fashion in this era, because there are literally misconceptions around every corner. The language in this book is significantly more eloquent and articulate than a lot of other literature on cheongsam or Chinese fashion history, but that does nothing to make up for its numerous inaccuracies. On a brighter note, the images are all very neat and reliable, though nothing extraordinary that you couldn’t see elsewhere. The parts where the authors analyze the perception of the cheongsam in the Singaporean psyche is also legitimate, or at least I assume so. This book was also published in 2012 so it's ten years old, I feel like some of its mistakes could be forgiven on account of its age. I would rate this book 4/10.

A note about some changes to formatting. I might stop linking image sources for those that are not posted by people who own the images themselves or otherwise contribute more context to the images. For example, a lot of the images for calendar paintings are from commercial vendors like AliExpress, even though they are just likely reprints of original vintage art whose copyright had expired long ago. There is no point in linking the source to lead readers to a place where they could buy a print... I will try to find out the original artist or author of the image and credit them instead. Obviously if anyone owns any of the images I post and would like them taken down I will be happy to do so.

#cheongsam #book review #vintage fashion #republican era #mid century #1910s #1920s #1930s #1940s #1950s

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rammaukins · 3 years

Text

Shara - The New Latexdoll

IMPORTANTE NOTE: Everything that appears here, in this story, only exists in my mind, anything that resembles reality is coincidence or fortuitous. . . ( hopefully there will be many of these 🤩, or not, who knows 😭 )

Damn! Where is the Zipper? - Movimento 1

( My gratitude to KunKlo , for his great job of correcting my English and expressions. )

Part 1

On an ordinary Friday afternoon, Shara, a clerk working as a secretary in an advertising company, was strolling around looking at the shop windows of the stores in the commercial district. Like every last Friday of the month, she had put on comfortable clothes that were easy to take off, so that she could easily give in to the temptation to try on a new dress or some other garment and maybe buy it. But what was typical of this day after getting her paycheck, was that today she was going to treat herself to a new pair of high heels.

She was addicted to heels, she had renovated her house to make a dressing room in which half of the space was just for her shoes. And she had her shoes sorted by day of the week, by heel height, by whether she wanted to be more or less comfortable. She had set aside a special place for her most expensive shoes and also her favourites for creating an impression. From that dressing room, without any friend or acquaintance of hers knowing, she had made a few videos for YouTube that she knew would appeal to lovers of heels and fetish fashion. Always avoiding showing her face or any detail that would make someone recognize her.

Today was one of those days when she hoped to be able to buy some shoes that were not run of the mill, that were extravagant, impossible looking, with which she would surely get more followers and thereby improve her earnings. And if she could also find some clothes to impress, so much the better. She even looked in costume shops for porcelain Venetian type masks, not minding if they were made of plastic. If she could further cajole her followers by letting herself be seen completely and still maintaining her anonymity, that would be great.

She wandered the streets of the shopping district, looking into the windows, hoping to see something that would catch her eye. Shara today was also hoping to find something nice to wear this weekend, to get really sexy and seduce again someone she already had in mind. For a moment while she was looking at a lingerie shop, she remembered how that person was running his hands over her skin. Those manly, strong hands, that knew so very well how to excite her body.

Shara walked down several streets, perusing all the shops for possible purchases. She had made a mental note of some of the clothes she had seen and which shops they were in. With the clothes she had some choices, but for now, she couldn't find what she had truly come for. After going into five shoe stores, she couldn't find a pair of shoes that were out of the ordinary. There were sandals of all kinds, shoes of all shapes, heels of all sizes. There were several models, that if you could combine them and create a single pair. . . she would have something worthy to use in her videos. But so, Shara was forced to keep looking, getting a little frustrated.

As she was about to return home, a shop caught her eye. She had never noticed that narrow alleyway in the cyberpunk clothing shopping district, where each shop was more outlandish than the last. If it weren't for the neon lights on the sign, “Your Sin”, she wouldn't have noticed that shop at all. It wasn't the first time she'd been in a sex shop, but it wasn't something she was in the habit of doing. At the moment she was entering, another client was coming out and he gave her a tremendous fright. He was the typical person who didn't care about the opinions of others, dressed in leather clothes, with his chest covered by a torn fishnet t-shirt and, for a man, made up too much, like. . . whatever urban movement he belonged to.

Shara stood watching the man leave, when the shop owner greeted her and invited her in. With some embarrassment she looked back and forth, in case there was another customer, but apart from the shop owner, there was no one else in the store. She took a deep breath and relaxed, and began to feel more comfortable knowing she was on her own. It wasn't her first time in a sex shop, but she didn't feel comfortable buying intimate things in person, preferring the internet. She always felt uncomfortable, when she felt someone's gaze upon her, thinking she knew what they were thinking about her when they bought something. For this reason, she never showed her face in the videos.

Now more relaxed, she began to look at the products on display, and the first thing that caught her eye, was a complicated corset, underbust, with a strap connecting to a collar that was the same shape as the corset. On the collar it said in dark gold letters "Sex Toy". Shara was impressed by the outfit upon closer inspection. Both the corset part and the necklace part had the same design, except for the detail that the neck corset had that characteristic witch's necklace design. Not very high, but high enough to cover the head from behind and limit the view from the sides. It looked like something out of a bad eighties epic-erotic fantasy witch movie, but with a careful and elegant design.

"With that you could charm any man right under your heels." - Shara suddenly heard behind her.

The young woman who was attending the shop, after seeing Shara, noticed right away that she was not a regular shopper in these types of establishments. So she had said that phrase to her, to get her mind focused on something that wasn't so embarrassing, and it seemed to work. Shara relaxed a little more and didn't look around herself so much. She noticed the amazing, shiny, pale pink latex Cheongsam dress with black lotus floral embroidery that the shopkeeper was wearing. She was also wearing a corset-like belt, much like the one Shara had been looking at, but without a collar. The whole outfit was very provocative, giving her a sensual and chic figure.

"Hi. I just wanted to introduce myself, honey. I am called Beky. I can see you're more of an online shopper, so I think I'll leave you a little bit to your own devices to familiarize yourself with the store." - said the shop owner, trying not to scare her.

"Look, down this aisle you'll find some cute outfits, toys are over there, leather clothes here and accessories and bondage items over there. High heels and stripper shoes are here and at the end of that aisle, you can find the most fetish like and the craziest shoes. Let me know when you find something that interests you." - Beky said, pointing down several aisles.

That last bit of information made Shara forget what she was currently looking at. She said thank you and went straight for the shoes. Her inner slutty self had always wanted a pair of stripper shoes to surprise a visitor. She already had more or less a picture in her mind of what she wanted. But when she reached the shoe rack she was overwhelmed by the sheer variety of rare shoes and boots on display. They were mostly available in black, white, red and transparent. The lowest heel was three inches and no platform. There were shoes with thin heels, wide heels, shaped figures, pony-boots and some that immediately caught her attention, the ballet-heels.

They were shaped like ballet shoes, but made of patent leather, on the instep there was a transparent sheet and two straps that crossed in "x" form , another one with a buckle that crossed the instep, and then a much wider strap on the ankle, whose closure had two small rings, to lock it with a small padlock.

"I love them." - she said to herself, marveling at the design and at the same time she was so excited to have found what she was looking for.

Shara had heard of them, and also, she had read comments coming from some of her fans. But until now she had had no interest, mostly because the ones she had seen as an example in a link, sent by one of her followers, was a rather horrendous design. But that pair was anything but hideous, she examined the shoe more closely and there was no doubt that whoever wore that pair of shoes would have to tiptoe like a ballet dancer. That shoe had caught her attention, they were perfect, with an elegant finish, just what she was looking for and she had to have them.

She picked them up and looked for the size of the shoe, and when she looked at the label, it wasn't her size. But then she saw something that further crushed her plan. To her big disappointment, right next to the size of the shoe, was the price of that shoe. It was totally out of her reach. With some annoyance she looked at the rest of the ballet-heels there. And she found some pink booties, vintage design. Shara took a closer look at the boot and the price seemed more reasonable than the shoe.

"It's not as pretty as the other one. . . but it will do." - She said to herself hoping it would have the effect she was looking for.

With the ballet-heels in hand she walked back to the checkout counter where the owner was taking a call. There was an open box next to her, while she was holding up a flesh-colored, see-through latex suit. As Shara waited for the girl to end the call, she couldn't help but overhear her talking about a "LatexDoll" model latex costume from something called "WomanDoll" that she had received. But only one had been delivered and she had ordered ten.

Shara visually examined the box the clerk had on the table. There were two things that caught her attention, right at the bottom of the box it said: "Designed to attract attention and not let anyone recognize you." Then Shara's gaze went to the top of the box, and that slogan captivated her: "Become your own Sex LatexDoll".

to be continued...

tumblr: Shara - The New Latexdoll (Part2) >>

DeviantArt: Shara - The New Latexdoll (part2) >>

Story by Rammaukin

Correction by KunKlo.

If you 😍 it, click on 💗, and we appreciate your comments 👍 , also the criticisms 🤬, although it may and is very likely that, we do not pay attention to them 🧘.

#digital art #tights #corruption #boots #cute girls #digitalilustration #rammaukin #story #part1 #solofeme

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