Italian Dyer's Notebook
Autograph manuscript, circa 1856-1866
This warped and worn nineteenth-century Italian manuscript appears to be a working manual and color inventory of a wool dyer in mid-nineteenth-century Italy. The handwritten entries are dated between 1856 and 1866, suggesting that the notebook was used and added to over a period of time. The work includes more than 500 numbered and itemized recipes for dyes. Recipes are illustrated with more than 800 wool and fabric samples adhered to the pages. The samples range in colors from shades of brown to vivid fuchsia, turquoise, and mustard. The samples include fabrics of wool, felt, and cotton, as well as raw wool and coils of yarn. Ingredients listed include mud, urine, arsenic, and vitriol. Pages 192-219 contain longer descriptions of dying processes, one attributed to Giacomo Udinese and another to Cesare Bizzi.
Check it out on our digital collections site.
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Kewpie quilt, 1916
https://www.internationalquiltmuseum.org/quilt/20210210012
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I just need everyone to understand that we have hardly any surviving intact garments from before, say, the 1700s. There鈥檚 dozens of reasons for this, but one of the big ones is that people reused the materials. Things were cut up and refashioned into new things, over and over, until the fabric was essentially just rags, bc the labor required to weave cloth and stitch up a garment was intense. You would wear and wear and wear things until they were dead. This includes the elaborate garments of the upper classes.
And in the same way that today many people pick apart old things to cannibalize the buttons and trims and other salvageable bits, they did that too! No sense throwing away perfectly good buttons just because the shirt is shredded. Snip those off and sew them onto something new! We have lace cuffs that are incredibly old, but rarely the garments they were worn with, partly because lace was so fucking expensive you鈥檇 have to be insane to throw it out. You would save those and refashion them again and again as often as possible.
So what we know of medieval clothing has been learned from writings, often very vague, illustrations (also very vague), and other imagery like statues. We have bits and pieces of garments, often from funerary contexts, but the same context that prevented them from being chopped up and reused also made them susceptible to decomposing.
Which is all to say that we do not know the exact details of garment construction for any given period. We don鈥檛 even know all the ins and outs of the clothing of the 1800s, and we have hundreds of surviving pieces from that century!
Do we know how frequently and in which contexts hooks and eyes were used prior to the late 1400s? Not precisely, but we can make some good guesses based on artwork and later usage. But we may never really know, because guess what! Hooks and eyes are reusable. I guarantee they would have been snipped off of unusable clothing and sewn onto new pieces.
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CHRISTMAS HAS PASSED SO HERES THE QUILT I MADE FOR MY PARTNER WHO LOVES PLANTS <33
This is still my 3rd quilt so I still have a lot to learn about using the machine but boy howdy was this lots of fun and I'm super proud of it. It's hand quilted and the weird shaped leaves and shrooms are applique.
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The word "defiled" being used specifically to describe knights trampled under the feet of horses in battle sent me down an etymological rabbithole. Apparently it comes from Medieval Latin fullare (to full), which stems in turn from fullo, an occupational word meaning "one who fulls".
Fulling is something I've experimented with quite a bit. It's the process of agitating wetted fabric, usually wool, in order to bind the fibres closer together, partially felting them and making the fabric heavier and thicker once it's dried. Scottish tartan material is fulled, and Vikings also fulled their outerwear to make it weather-repellent. When I was trying to recreate historical diapering methods with my daughter earlier this year, I made several fulled wool pilchers to help prevent leaks, which worked well.
Fullare seems to refer specifically to fulling fabric by stomping on it, a common method in ages past which draws quite an image for the poor fallen knights. Nowadays we tend to think of defiling as soiling or dirtying something rather than stomping on it; this is partly thanks to the influence of a similar-sounding Old English word, fulen ("to rot"), the ancestor of today's "foul".
I have to get my surgical staples out later today, which isn't fun, so I'm glad I've got some lovely new etymology to distract me.
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