Hamam / Steam: The Turkish Bath
Ferzan Özpetek. 1997
Street
Balat, Tevkii Cafer Mektebi Sk. No:1, 34087 Fatih/İstanbul, Turkey
See in map
See in imdb
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The Turkish Bath, 1907 - Felix Vallotton
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I’m sorry but it’s SO FUNNY in the Illustrious Client when Holmes and Watson go to the Turkish Baths and find “an isolated corner where two couches lie side by side” and lie there all comfy and cute in their robes and Watson flirtily asks Holmes “whether anything was stirring” and Holmes is like “yes actually, I have a case. I brought the letter to the bath with me” like BUDDY THAT WAS NOT WHAT HE WAS REFERRING TO
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Woooo I'm back! I was away this weekend at Thought Bubble, a comic convention that is very near and dear to me :D
...And which also happens to be situated across the road from the Harrogate Turkish Baths that were built in the late 1890s, and with our first mention of Turkish Baths about to come up in Letters from Watson, you know what I did with my evening...
As someone who has ever been to a spa or a sauna, I went into it pretty nervous. I was reassured that I knew everyone would be in swimming costumes and there would be attendants on hand to help, but also nervous that I would do something wrong or end up getting a bit overwhelmed by all the sensory stimuli going on (smells! noise! colours! heat! cold!) I was also worried I'd have to take my glasses off, because I was on my own and I have very poor eyesight without them.
But I guess my raging inner history buff that's both interested in late Victorian forms of entertainment and also pretty interested in Roman baths that are a comparable process won out, because I went.
AND I LOVED IT!
I was honestly fizzing with excitement just to be walking around an environment I'm used to seeing in old black and white photographs...
But it was like... REAL!!!
I couldn't take photos in the baths myself because obviously that would be incredibly creepy but please enjoy this picture I took of a logo model in the lobby, and an actual Thomas Crapper toilet, yes I do get excited by silly things
The process of using the baths was all about alternating heat and cold, with three rooms with different heat levels, and a cold plunge pool and showers.
The best thing about it for me is that while there was a recommended sequence to follow, you could pay attention to your own body and just do whatever you wanted to do.
I was surprised how tolerable the hottest room was because it was a really dry heat, but I spent most of my time lounging around in the two lowest heat areas. If I do it again I'm definitely going to bring a book - I wouldn't have thought that was an option, but they actually provided magazines and I saw a fair number of people reading!
I found myself feeling so happy and floppy afterwards. I joked that it felt like I had no bones. In fact it's been nearly 48 hours now and I swear I still feel like a happy puddle.
Anyway as a treat for reading to the end, please enjoy the Sherlock Holmes Turkish Baths illustration that makes the fandom go absolutely feral:
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Király bath, Budapest, 1975. From the Budapest Municipal Photography Company archive.
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More revised timeline nonsense: Holmes rushing off to confront Baron Gruner with no more goal in mind than to warn him to maybe not do evil things, and “I like to meet him eye to eye and read for myself the stuff that he is made of,” feels like a huge departure from his usual methods. The closest I can remember is Moriarty coming to him to threaten him.
If you picture this case as one of the first after The Empty House, this feels more like the actions of an adrenaline junkie chasing the high of danger to cope with the jittery unease of newfound safety. I feel Holmes isn’t fully conscious of this, and rationalizes the impulse with “maybe I’ll learn something in a face to-face-meeting!”
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Big shout out to Sir Arthur Conan "I forget the name of my main characters sometimes but if I mention them going to a Turkish baths it will be a real one and there will be physical evidence of its existence in the 21st century" Doyle
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The Turkish Bath, 1907
Painting by Felix Vallotton
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