BootstrapFashion.com’s DIY dress form pattern (standard plus sizes) review:
When I decided I was going to start making patterns specifically for plus sizes, (instead of trying to grade my existing patterns up to plus sizes, which is less accurate), I knew I also wanted to model them on a properly sized dress form.
Turns out that it’s a freaking pain to get large size dress forms, so I made one.
(May future readers please excuse a bit of sloppy matching and stuffing here; there was a plague)
There’s a company called Bootstrap Fashion, and they make patterns to sew your own dress form. They have a service where you can measure yourself, put the numbers in their form, and get a pattern customized to your size. They also offer patterns in standard sizes, which is the route I went.
The custom patterns are less expensive, but this standard size pattern set me back $37.
(Yes, I know about duct tape dress forms, and I’ve made several paper-tape dress forms. Paper tape works a lot better than duct tape, btw. There’s several reasons why I didn’t go this route, including accuracy, pinnability, wanting it to fit a specific size and not a specific person, and visuals of the finished project. I’ll go into those later, under the jump).
So, let’s go into some things about this pattern.
Price: $37 gets you several sizes of pattern, all of which are a PDF download. Each size is its own PDF, so you don’t need to get confused with multi-size. $37 is not inexpensive. Once you get your download, you print out your pages on your home printer (mine was 45 pages), tape them together, and cut them out. You then need to add seam allowance and cut.
Note: there is no option to get the pattern printed and sent to you. Also note: I HATE piecing together patterns and would happily have spent $50 on a pattern printed on large paper.
Final result: The pattern worked up pretty nice. It’s got an inner stabilizing piece to hold the tube for the dress form stand, and that piece also stops it from ballooning where it shouldn’t when it’s stuffed. It’s got markings for the horizontal foundation lines. The neck has a sponge that’s nice for putting pins in. It’s firm enough to do what I want but also lightweight (though it’s stuffed with almost eight pounds of fiberfill. If I need to mail it anywhere, I can unstuff it, send it, and buy fiberfill to restuff it at the final location, making this one of the only dress forms I can find that could be sent in the mail.
Mine was a little messy in some parts because I’m in a GOTTASEWFAST mood due to avoiding thinking about current life things. Excuse a bit of sloppiness; there was a plague, and I’m avoiding thinking about how I just dumped the last piece of stability in my life over its misalignment with my morals.
Instructions: Oh boy. I want to begin by saying that I spend 5 years in costume design school working from patterns with various levels of instruction competency and making my own patterns and instructions, and that I also once built a harp with nothing but a good book of instructions and a 4 week scene shop class. I know how to follow instructions, and I don’t believe my difficulty with these instructions was PEBCAK or inexperience.
I took notes for this post as I made this dress form. I looked at them today to realize that they’re utter gibberish. Original notes here with transription here: https://pastebin.com/sGEtfz8A
But here’s a summary of the main points:
1) Notches. This pattern uses about twelve different kinds of notches. This is a valid route to take. However, the kinds of notches are not always distinct. On the busts, for example, there is a wide 3-notch and a narrow 3-notch. If there are twelve kinds of notches, why are two nearly-identical ones on the same pattern piece, where you’re expected to note the difference and do this properly? This pattern HAS distinct kinds of notches and there is no reason why those two similar kinds had to be on the same piece. This would have cost $0 to do better.
2) More notches. The purpose of notches is that if the notches match, the piece is pinned properly. There should be no situation where the notches match and the piece is not pinned properly. This pattern had a situation where the proper notches matched each other, but the piece was upside-down. This should not happen. To prevent this, you can use different kinds of notches at each end, like maybe one of the twelve different kinds of notches this pattern already uses.
3) Level of education in the pattern. This pattern flips between explaining to you how to use interfacing in deep detail, to telling you “make sure notches match” with no guide for what to do if the notches don’t match. Is your customer a beginner sewer or an experienced one? Why do your instructions not know this? How did you decide what to give in detail and what to gloss over? Why were those decisions made, if they were made at all?
4) Terminology. Some of this is me being pedantic. Some of this is not me being pedantic. Words like “interlining” and “stay-stitching” mean things. When people see those words, they assume that those words mean those things that the word means. That is the purpose of language. That’s why we have it.
Interlining is a material placed between the face fabric and the lining. It is not a piece of inner structure. Stay-stitching is done on a single layer of fabric to prevent distortion and to force the fabric it’s sewn over to stay the shape it is. It is not done on two layers to attach them together. (Yes, I’m in the USA and yes, the pattern people are in the UK, and yes, I checked to make sure these terms mean these things in both countries).
Some terms, like “self”, are a bit more vague. I was trained that the fabric that you’re making the garment out of is the “face”, and if you’re using the face fabric for something traditionally made from a different fabric, like a facing or a lining, it’s made of self. Thus self-faced and self-lined. This one isn’t universal but it annoyed me because it left another layer of “what does this mean” after i deciphered what they think interlining is.
5) Using generic instructions for patterns that exceed those instructions. This happens a lot with plus-size instructions. I wasn’t aware of it until I started researching these things, and holy wow it is annoying. You can use a 7″ or 9″ zipper for most of these patterns, so the instructions say “7″ or 9″ zipper” on them.
With the plus sizes, you need a 9″ zipper, as a 7″ will be too short. Does the pattern tell you this? No. Because they wrote the instructions for one size and then send them out for all sizes.
This sounds like it was nit picking but this pattern was almost $40 and it came without specific instructions.
6) I would murder for some dimensions on this pattern. On the website, but not included with the pattern, are the finished dimensions of the form. This covers bust, underbust, waist, and hips. It would have been really handy to have these included in the pattern.
In general, when I’m working on a pattern for someone, I don’t just have their hips and bust and etc measurements. I’ve got an entire 8.5x11 page of measurements, including four hip measurements, the distance between nipples, the front yoke, the back yoke, around the neck, armpit to waist, etc. It’s really, really hard to find a standard measurement for plus sizes (since the standard that was made in the 50′s didn’t cover that) and it’s annoying to not know what the patternmakers thought was the right size. I would have loved to be able to measure this as I went to make sure it was the right size. I also would have greatly appreciated if the foundational measures were printed on the pattern pieces. That’d be a simple thing to add and would have made my life much easier.
As I said in my original notes, instructions unclear: petticoat stuck in garbage disposal
In summary: I had a really good result with this, and I think the product is fine, but due to the instructions, I cannot recommend this to anyone who isn’t somewhat experienced with sewing and who doesn’t have enough time and patience to figure some of this out on their own. This is a disappointment, because the pattern itself is a really good product, and I’d love to recommend it.
And, like I promised, why (if you can slog through the instructions) this is better than doing a tape form.
First, because any form you make by putting it on top of your existing body will be bigger than your existing body. You’ll easily add inches, maybe a full size. Second, because any time you have your tape bridge a gap, you create distortion. If you don’t have a strategy for how to apply tape to the bust, you’ll end up with weird shaped busts. Third, because a tape form makes the form of a specific human, and I wanted the form of a generic human. There’s no way I know to make a tape form of a specific standard size. Fourth, because tape forms kind of just look bad. I’m going to be using this for modeling samples for etsy, and I wanted something that looked a little bit professional. If I’m going to take this patternmaking seriously, I should be supplying myself with serious tools. Fifth, because I wanted a form that was pinnable and could be taped onto without damage to the form. I wanted a form that I could use like my other dress forms.
Anyway, that’s how that went. Since I have the wide format printer mostly up and running (as long as you don’t need magenta or yellow) and I have the dress form, my next steps are to get my sewing room clean and clear so my brain can be (as) clean and clear (as the situation permits). I’m going to start by making some blouse patterns, since that’s the fabric I have on hand, so if you’ve ever wanted a pattern for a specific lolita blouse in a size 18+, shoot me a picture and I’ll add it to the list of things I might do.
To everyone who has sent me an ask or asked for help in the past few weeks, I’ll probably answer those in a couple of days, with apologies for leaving it so long. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I’m going to go drill eleven 1/4″ holes in my wall. Thank you all for reading.
43 notes
·
View notes
Finished my half scale dressform :D
I used Bootstrapfashion’s patterning services, the instructions are super easy to follow and honestly love this so much more than my duct tape dressform.
It’s less messy, easier to fix filling mistakes if you over or under fill certain areas, and less likely to fall apart over time. Unless of course you use rotten thread (if you can snap the thread with no effort then throw it away) or fabric (love yourself, this is a tool that needs good fabric to assist you go buy something nicer)
If you have a asymmetrical figure, you will need to make special padding pieces to accommodate those areas, but otherwise the dressform pattern should work. There is a video tutorial on their website if the written instructions are unclear!
13 notes
·
View notes