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#Rumex scutatus
botanisiertrommel · 9 months
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Schild-Ampfer
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wealthypioneers · 2 years
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Bloody Dock Red Sorrel and Green Belleville Sorrel Mix, Varieties Heirloom Non-GMO BN50 Green Belleville Garden Sorrel (Rumex acetosa) is appreciated in native cuisines throughout Europe and in many parts of Asia and Africa, as well. A perennial, it is available in early spring, before many annual crops have even been sown! The lemony tartness of the young succulent leaves gives a tangy twist to salads. Widely used in soups; combine with spinach for an authentic spanikopita. This cultivated variety with clear green leaves is much slower bolting than the wild species. Bloody Dock Red Sorrel (Rumex sanguineus). Stunning foliage plant with elongated, medium green leaves, exquisitely veined in a brilliant burgundy-purple. A hardy perennial, it quickly forms an attractive clump, which sends up red flower clusters in early summer, followed by brown seed heads. A superb, deer-resistant accent plant. 6-12 hours of Sun Sprouts in 10-14 Days Ideal Temperature: 65-75 Degrees F Seed Depth: 1/4" Plant Spacing: 10-12" Frost Hardy: Yes Type: Annuals, Perennials Sun Exposure: Full Sun Water: Regular Water Family: Polygonaceae Type: Annuals, Perennials Sun Exposure: Full Sun Water: Regular Water Planting Zones: 4-11 Family: Polygonaceae Rumex acetosa (Green) Rumex sanguineus (Red) Two similar species are grown for their edible leaves, which can be used raw in salads or cooked in soups, sauces, egg dishes. The flavor is like that of sharp, sprightly spinach, but sorrel is more heat tolerant and produces throughout the growing season. Common sorrel (Rumex acetosa) is a larger plant (to 3 feet tall), with leaves 6 inches long, many shaped like elongated arrowheads. It is native to northern climates. French sorrel (R. scutatus) is a more sprawling plant, to 112 feet high, with shorter, broader leaves and a milder, more lemony flavor than R. acetosa. Native to Europe, western Asia, and North Africa. The oxalic acid found in sorrel can replace lemon, which is often added to smoothies to balance out the taste. Grow sorrel in reasonably good soil. Sow seeds in early spring; thin seedlings to 8 inches apart. Or set out transplants at any time, spacing them 8 inches apart. Pick tender leaves when they are big enough to use; cut out flowering stems to encourage leaf production. Replace (or dig and divide) plants after 3 or 4 years. The plant grows to about 2 feet in height in clumps with pink flowers in racemose appearing during early summer. Growing Tips: Harvest tender leaves starting in early spring, remove flowering tops to keep leaves tender and to prevent unwanted volunteers. May become invasive in some climates. Like any other greens, wash sorrel clumps thoroughly in clean running water and rinse in salt water for about 30 minutes in order to remove dirt and any insecticide residues. The fresh herb should be used early to get maximum nutrition. To store, keep wrapped in a damp towel and place in the refrigerator for extended use (up to 3 days). Sorrel uses – Add to soups – Make it into a sauce for fish – Add to omelets and scrambled eggs – Add to stuffing for meat – Shred sorrel and stuff it into fish – Add to quiches – Add to mashed potatoes – Add to hummus – Add to pasta – Add to mixed-leaf and herb salads – Add to chard and spinach anywhere you would use those – Use as a filling for buckwheat crêpes – Make it into a pesto, to use in pasta, on pizzas, or with grilled salmon – Sorrel Smoothie Seeds are not individually packaged according to variety but are packaged in one envelope for this listing, please see other listings for individual varieties. Note: No tracking # will be provided to make the shipping cost-effective for us and free for you. Returns & exchanges Not accepted. But please contact me if you have problems with your order Our seeds are guaranteed to germinate. Once the seeds have sprouted, please understand that we cannot be held responsible for the many uncontrollable growing and climatic conditions that must be met to ensure the success of your crop(s). I try my best to make my buyers happy and would appreciate it if you'd contact me first if you have any questions or problems with your order. If you open a case before contacting me first, I will automatically block you from future purchases. Thank you for your understanding. http://springsofeden.myshopify.com/products/bloody-dock-red-sorrel-and-green-belleville-sorrel-mix-varieties-heirloom-non-gmo-bn50-1
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phototagebuch · 2 years
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7.11.2021: Schild-Ampfer
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Top Drought Tolerant Plants
10.  Daylilies:  I know this is very general but I have too many varieties to list.  They didn’t always remain colorfast in the intense heat and dry conditions of this start to finish drought summer, but they endured by and large.
9.  Ruta graveolens (herb of grace):  Its blue/green leaves looked just as good if not better in this very dry season with no supplemental water.  I had issues with die-off in the spring with some of my 6 year old plants (lifespan issue?) that may have been a product of the extreme May coldsnap that brought snow and freezing windchills and harming anything with slender live wood.  It is underused as a front of the garden ornamental with extremely handsome contrast foliage all season long (well into fall).  An even prune in the spring of the old wood and you have a well-shaped color accent, or make it into a low hedge like a blue boxwood.  Highly aromatic, it’s bracing exotic scent is a true delight.  Host food for Giant and Black swallowtail butterflies.  Try a little snipped into salads, or as a distinctive touch in Greek and Mediterranean dishes.  I always chop some finely and add it to the meat when I make Gyros.
8. Lavender ‘Phemonenal’:  This one is new to the trade and new to my herb garden, but as young plants set out in the middle of the drought they performed and looked beautiful, producing bloom stalks over a long period of time and continuing to fill out, quadrupling in size with only early season watering.  If it’s as winter hardy as they say (Zone 4) this plant is going to be a star in a lot of northern gardens.
7.  Rumex scutatus ssp. glaucus (silver leaf/French Sorrel):  This is a milder culinary sorrel, but it has beautiful shield or spade shaped blue/gray leaves on trailing stems, with hazy reddish seeds spikes in early summer.  Enjoy these for a bit then cut the plant back and watch it regrow fresh foliage in a hurry as herbs are known to do. Foliage develops reddish highlights in cooler fall temps.  I went wild scattering seeds in my largest perennial garden, a few of these along the path or edging for an alternative foliar accent.  Has the sprawling habit and density to be used as ground cover block planting in a sunny area (there’s an idea! Edible groundcover!)
6.  Goldenrods:   Going general here again, but what can you say about this genus of toughies.  A little shorter and later to bloom than usual, but even established moisture loving S. riddellii handled the drought with aplomb.  By the way, some of the best goldenrods for the garden defy conventional wisdom about invasiveness and weedy appearance  There are many clump forming, refined to semi-refined types, some slow spreaders and controllable ground cover types in a variety of forms that make this genus quite remarkable.  Whereas many perennials offer a number of colors but basically the same form, goldenrods give you basically two colors (bet you didn’t know they came in white too!), but a wide variety of beautiful structural forms.  You have the pyramidal forms that can vary widely--when the stalks of these compound flower heads elongate, you get a regal diamond shape or some very large heads round out into into massive chandeliers; others have a flatter pagoda form, and again when the secund inflorescences are flat and wide they remind me of tiger paws.  Sadly, the best of these are in the canadensis group, known to be invasive and weedy.  But there are exceptions like the petite S. canadensis ‘Golden Baby’.  Also, early goldenrod, Solidago juncea offers the pyramid shapes as well.  There are flat tops, including S. rigida (stiff goldenrod) and it’s shorter diploid form  ssp. humilis.  Solidago riddellii mentioned above is in my book perhaps the most refined and beautiful of all the goldenrods.  There are also wand forms, hooked forms, axillary and club shaped forms.  Many variations show plume and featherlike flower heads. And any given plant can change in appearance from year to year depending on conditions. I’ll post separately about all my favorites and their many virtues soon with photographs.
5. Digitalis parviflora:  chocolate foxglove.   The foliage and flowers remained as unstoppable as they ever are.  The way it kept its healthy foliage throughout the season was impressive, when many other were showing signs of stress, D. parv remained cool as a cucumber.
4. Limelight hydrangea:  whether you are talking about the tree form or shrub form, these woody wonders once established don’t even blink like their herbaceous cousins that wilt in full sun and fry in drought.  Having a few of these as the backbone of your garden is never a bad idea.
3. Euphorbia palustris:  Marsh spurge. Don’t be fooled by the name. This plant made it through the entire summer looking as big and beautiful as it had in past seasons, absent any supplementary water.  True this plant is located in the more moisture retaining nursery, but quite a few plants in the nursery showed the effects of drought.  Let’s just say that a well established E. palustris can withstand dry conditions with the best of them.  Next year it will be tested when I divide and move it to drier climbs.
2.  Vernonia crinita:  at least this appears to me to be crinita.  Giant and magnificent and no sign of defect due to the lack of water.  It even sits on the dry downslope at the back of the garden where water tends to run off and away.  Can’t say enough about this plant.
1. Asclepias tuberosa:  The hand’s down winner.  Its deep plunging tap root is one secret of it’s success.  All the established plants sailed through, blooming at the very height of the drought in July and providing one of the few highlights in a pestilent, drought-ridden, lonely and isolating garden season.  And what a shade of orange.
To happier times and better gardens.
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freshtendril · 5 years
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Confetti Fava Chanterelle Egg Hash
Oh boy, where to begin? I wandered into the backyard and the kitchen and grabbed things. Whether it was weeds, garden vegetables, foraged things and a few purchased. I’ll just list..
Foraged: chanterelles, purslane two types, yellow cress (Rorippa palustris), pigweed greens (Amaranthus), and wood sorrel (Oxalis).
Gardened: Fava beans, blueberries, zucchini, garlic scape pesto, garlic chives, arugula, chard greens, French sorrel (Rumex scutatus), thyme, dill and borage flowers.
Kitchen: eggs from my farmer friend, pistachios, lemon, butter, olive oil, salt and pepper.
Garden and foraging abundance for sure. It must be eaten or else what’s the point of growing or gathering it?
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catherindonald · 4 years
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Sorrel – Herb of the Month
By Maryann Readal
Sorrel (Rumex acetosa), a tart, lemony herb, is used today primarily in cooking. However, you may have to grow your own sorrel or visit a farmer’s market or specialty store in early spring if you want to make any recipe with it. 
Chopped and combined with cream and butter, sorrel makes a nice sauce for fish. If you have Eastern European or Jewish heritage, you may have had sorrel soup (schav) growing up. The leaves can be chopped and added to casseroles, or added to any soup to brighten the flavor. You can also make a pesto with the leaves or use it in combination with basil, mint, etc. to give your pesto a different flavor. Leaves can be cooked along with spinach, and baby leaves can be tossed into salads. Add it to salad dressing to give a tangy taste. It’s best to use the young leaves, as older leaves tend to acquire a more sour taste. Combining it with sour cream or cream will lessen its sourness. At one time, meat was wrapped with sorrel leaves to tenderize it. Sorrel is used in French cooking, for which the preferred species is Rumex scutatus. This species has a milder, lemon-like flavor and smaller, rounded leaves.
Sorrel was, at one time, a very popular herb in places where citrus fruits were not available. Because of its high Vitamin C content, it was eaten in the 16th-18th centuries to prevent scurvy. It was thought to also cure diseases of the mouth including loose teeth, which is a symptom of scurvy.  Because of the oxalic acid in sorrel, people with arthritic, renal, and gastrointestinal disorders should eat it with caution. However, light cooking of sorrel decreases the oxalic content of the leaves. Young leaves also have less oxalic acid than older leaves.
Rumex sanguineus
The roots and seeds have been used in traditional medicines, with the roots as well as the leaves having components that produce a laxative effect. “Currently, studies on sorrel offer promising results in the areas of digestion, infection prevention, topical skin treatments, and anti-proliferative activity.” (American Botanical Council, HerbalEGram, May 2016).
In the past, sorrel was used to remove ink stains, rust, and mold from linen. Juice from the leaves makes an olive green dye, and the roots produce a bright yellow dye.
Sorrel has bright green, long, arrow-shaped leaves, and produces an inflorescence in May-June. It is easy to grow in zones 4-8.  Seeds can be sown directly in the ground before the last frost. Plants can also be divided and shared. It is a perennial in my zone 8b garden. Sorrel does like acidic soil and plenty of sun, but will tolerate some shade. There is a species with red veining, Rumex sanguineus, that makes a nice accent plant in the garden. It is also edible, though it lacks the strong flavor of garden sorrel, Rumex acetosa.
Here is my mother-in-law’s recipe for sorrel soup:
Sorrel Soup
¼ lb. sorrel leaves
1 tbsp. butter
2 cups chicken broth
3 eggs yolks
½ cup cream
Salt and white pepper
Shred the sorrel leaves that have been well-washed, with the stems and center ribs removed. Cook in the butter for a few minutes until soft. Add the chicken broth and simmer for 15 minutes. At serving time, beat three egg yolks with the cream and add to the hot soup, being careful not to let it boil. Season with salt and white pepper to taste and serve immediately.
For more information and recipes using sorrel, please go to The Herb Society of America’s Herb of the Month webpage.
Medicinal Disclaimer: It is the policy of The Herb Society of America, Inc. not to advise or recommend herbs for medicinal or health use. This information is intended for educational purposes only and should not be considered as a recommendation or an endorsement of any particular medical or health treatment. Please consult a health care provider before pursuing any herbal treatments.
Maryann is the Secretary of The Herb Society of America. She is a member of the Texas Thyme Unit in Huntsville, TX. and is a Master Gardener. She gardens among the pines in the Piney Woods of East Texas.
Sorrel – Herb of the Month published first on https://marcuskeever.blogspot.com/
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lifegardenheaven · 4 years
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What Is French Sorrel – Learn About French Sorrel Herb Plant Care And Uses
What Is French Sorrel – Learn About French Sorrel Herb Plant Care And Uses
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French sorrel (Rumex scutatus) can not be one of them Herbs that you found in your local supermarket in the spice course, but it has a long Terms history. It gives many dishes a citrusy taste. This Perennial can be fresh or used for cooking. It can also grow like a weed right conditions. The French sorrel plant could be just the thing for you complete yours kitchen Herb garden,
What is…
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chefbusiness-co · 6 years
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Acederas
Hay diversas variedades, aunque las principales son la acedera común y la redonda (Rumex scutatus).
Es una planta perenne oriunda de Europa y Asia, aunque ahora se encuentra también en América y Australia; tiene un sabor refrescante ligeramente agrio.
Está relacionada con el ruibarbo.
La acedera se puede emplear como hortaliza (cruda en ensaladas o cocinada en una especie de puré, como las espinacas) y como hierba aromática (en sopas, salsas y, con otras hierbas aromáticas, como relleno de pescado).
Se puede adquirir durante todo el verano.
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foodpilgrim · 6 years
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Adding a little sour to the salad
The crows gathered, chattering in the pine tops this morning as I knelt in the garden and set out a dozen red-veined sorrel plants. I wondered if the crows were plotting to have a taste of the lemony leaf after I left. Sorrel is a member of the buckwheat and rhubarb family, and it served as a flavorful and reliable source of nutrition for the indigenous peoples on this continent for thousands of years before European explorers arrived. The plant is kin to oxalis, the dainty wildflower also known as wood sorrel that blooms yellow, white, pink or red and has three heart shaped leaves joined at their points on the stem. Oxalis, though tiny and fragile, is also edible.
Sorrel comes up in early spring--even in poor soil--and will overwinter or reseed if you let it. With their sharp tang, sorrel leaves can be used to brighten up soups and sauces that are often created with the addition of heavy cream or an abundance of butter and shallots. It's easy to find recipes on line these days that call for sorrel as a congenial ingredient in omelets and tarts, too.  
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Red-veined sorrel ready for planting as an ornamental or to eat!
Sorrel is an acidic herb. It contains oxalic acid (as does spinach), which can be poisonous to humans if eaten in enormous quantity. You know that sense of something sticking to your teeth when you eat spinach? That fuzzy feeling comes from the oxalic acid in the spinach binding with calcium in your mouth.  Fortunately, in addition to vitamins A and C and potassium, sorrel also contains calcium, which actually serves as a foil for the oxalic acid, according to long- ago research on spinach conducted by the famous Duke University biologist Knut Schmidt-Nielsen at the start of his wide-ranging career.  
The presence of calcium in sorrel has also made the plant a beneficial ingredient in herbal creams designed to keep wrinkles away and facial skin firm, according to the Australian herb experts John and Rosemary Hemphill, who suggest that sorrel can be used to good effect in a facial steam and "can also be taken as a tea to help clear the skin." 
"Sorrel seeds should be sown in March," pronounced Ms. Eleanour Sinclair Rohde in her charming little book, A Garden of Herbs, published in London in 1920 and now available free as an E-book on Google. The ever frugal Ms. Rohde argues that sorrel soup can be made with milk "but is better and cheaper with potatoes." She also mentions--in the archaic spelling of her time--that sorrel can be used "to take Staines out of ones Hands Presently. You may do this with the iuyce [juice] of Sorrell, washing the stained parts therein."
Though March is now past, it is still a fine time to plant sorrel seeds or find plants already started, as I did a few days ago at Big Bloomers Flower Farm in Sanford, North Carolina. Their greenhouses did not yet have the French sorrel (Rumex scutatus) or the common sorrel (Rumex acetosa) potted and ready for sale. And as I have learned in reading, many chefs prefer the French over the common sorrel, since the latter has broad leaves that can get quite large and bitter enough to require blanching before eating.
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Oxalis growing wild between the stepping stones in my garden.
The red-veined Rumex sanguineus that I was able to buy (in four packs for $2.95) will make a colorful addition to lettuce salads well into fall if we don't have a major drought. The leaves, best picked small, are tender, lemony, and not too sour. (Sorrel means sour in French.)
I don't remember eating sorrel until the ace cook Jim Harb served it to me in a salad and then shared some seeds. Jim says he routinely combines sorrel from his garden with arugula and mint to make a refreshing first course. "It's just so bright and lemony tart that it picks up any salad," he says.   
And here's an expert tip Jim sent along that is also worth considering, regardless of whatever greens you may have on hand: "A secret to luscious salad," he wrote, "is to wet the greens lightly with water. Many people take lettuce straight out of the fridge and dress it. WRONG! The greens need to be wet slightly so that the water can dissolve the salt (which should go on first).  Then, comes the acidity [meaning vinegar or citrus juice or both]. If the oil goes on before, the acid can't hit the greens, so only the oil/fat covers the greens.  So, water, salt, acid, and then finally oil, in that order."
Thanks, Jim. One more timely fact about sorrel caught my attention. The herb is often served as an accompaniment to fish. Shad--featured in the March chapter of my upcoming book on N.C. heritage foods through the year--are actually swimming upstream right now to spawn in North Carolina rivers.  These slab-sided, silvery fish, which are larger than their near-relative the herring, have been much prized by Tar Heels in the past, but they are also known for their prodigious bones. 
According to The Oxford Companion to Food, sorrel was often applied as a stuffing for shad, the belief being that the oxalic acid would dissolve the smallest, worrisome bones in the fish as it cooked, not to mention that sorrel's sharp flavor was delicious with this oily fish.            
The British food writer and restaurateur Tom Jaine experimented with this theory and found it improbable. Shad bones are better dissolved by prolonged cooking, he discovered.
One last idea: pounding sorrel leaves into a paste with vinegar or lemon juice and a touch of sugar creates what the English back in Ms. Rohde's day rather unromantically called greensauce. 
I shall make some greensauce this spring, and I'll let you know how it goes on, say, trout when the time comes.
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Sorrel and Bibb lettuce covered in case of visiting crows, deer, or Easter bunnies.
NOTE: If you found this blog through a facebook link, please know that you can also sign up for e-mail notification of every posting. You can also unsubscribe at any time. For more information on my book that launches on September 4, please visit my website.
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wealthypioneers · 2 years
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Rare Bloody Dock Red Sorrel Seeds Heirloom Non-GMO BN50 Bloody Dock Red Sorrel (Rumex sanguineus). Stunning foliage plant with elongated, medium green leaves, exquisitely veined in a brilliant burgundy-purple. A hardy perennial, it quickly forms an attractive clump, which sends up red flower clusters in early summer, followed by brown seed heads. A superb, deer-resistant accent plant. Count: 50+ 6-12 hours of Sun Sprouts in 10-14 Days Ideal Temperature: 65-75 Degrees F Seed Depth: 1/4" Plant Spacing: 10-12" Frost Hardy: Yes Type: Annuals, Perennials Sun Exposure: Full Sun Water: Regular Water Family: Polygonaceae Type: Annuals, Perennials Sun Exposure: Full Sun Water: Regular Water Planting Zones: 4-11 Family: Polygonaceae Rumex sanguineus (Red) Sorrel is grown for their edible leaves, which can be used raw in salads or cooked in soups, sauces, egg dishes. The flavor is like that of sharp, sprightly spinach, but sorrel is more heat tolerant and produces throughout the growing season. Common sorrel (Rumex acetosa) is a larger plant (to 3 feet tall), with leaves 6 inches long, many shaped like elongated arrowheads. It is native to northern climates. French sorrel (R. scutatus) is a more sprawling plant, to 112 feet high, with shorter, broader leaves and a milder, more lemony flavor than R. acetosa. Native to Europe, western Asia, and North Africa. The oxalic acid found in sorrel can replace lemon, which is often added to smoothies to balance out the taste. Grow sorrel in reasonably good soil. Sow seeds in early spring; thin seedlings to 8 inches apart. Or set out transplants at any time, spacing them 8 inches apart. Pick tender leaves when they are big enough to use; cut out flowering stems to encourage leaf production. Replace (or dig and divide) plants after 3 or 4 years. The plant grows to about 2 feet in height in clumps with pink flowers in racemose appearing during early summer. Growing Tips: Harvest tender leaves starting in early spring, remove flowering tops to keep leaves tender and to prevent unwanted volunteers. May become invasive in some climates. Like any other greens, wash sorrel clumps thoroughly in clean running water and rinse in salt water for about 30 minutes in order to remove dirt and any insecticide residues. The fresh herb should be used early to get maximum nutrition. To store, keep wrapped in a damp towel and place in the refrigerator for extended use (up to 3 days). Sorrel uses – Add to soups – Make it into a sauce for fish – Add to omelets and scrambled eggs – Add to stuffing for meat – Shred sorrel and stuff it into fish – Add to quiches – Add to mashed potatoes – Add to hummus – Add to pasta – Add to mixed-leaf and herb salads – Add to chard and spinach anywhere you would use those – Use as a filling for buckwheat crêpes – Make it into a pesto, to use in pasta, on pizzas, or with grilled salmon – Sorrel Smoothie Note: No tracking # will be provided to make the shipping cost-effective for us and free for you. Returns & exchanges Not accepted. But please contact me if you have problems with your order Our seeds are guaranteed to germinate. Once the seeds have sprouted, please understand that we cannot be held responsible for the many uncontrollable growing and climatic conditions that must be met to ensure the success of your crop(s). I try my best to make my buyers happy and would appreciate it if you'd contact me first if you have any questions or problems with your order. If you open a case before contacting me first, I will automatically block you from future purchases. Thank you for your understanding. http://springsofeden.myshopify.com/products/rare-bloody-dock-red-sorrel-seeds-heirloom-non-gmo-bn50-1
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colospaola · 7 years
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Praticamente nel centro di Pavia, non lontano dal Palazzo del Comune, troviamo l’Orto Botanico.   Da via S. Antonio Giovanni Scopoli s’intravede la facciata principale, con una maestosa scalinata, mentre l’entrata riservata ai visitatori è in via  Sant’Epifanio.
All’ingresso non si ha l’idea di quello che si potrà vedere dopo, un elegante chiostro, una biblioteca che racchiude erbari e libri antichi, e poi un parco/giardino ricco di fiori, piante, fontane, statue, un grazioso laghetto.
E’ un giardino pieno di colori, di profumi, qualche panchina, tranquillità.
Le fonti dicono che fin dal 1520 era presente un Orto a Pavia che conservava collezioni di Piante Officinali presso l’abitazione di Leonardo Leggi, allora lettore di Medicina Pratica Ordinaria dell’Università, ma l’ubicazione di questo primo Orto non è ancora oggi molto chiara, poiché si ritiene abbia cambiato sede più volte durante il lettorato dei Semplici, in cui si susseguirono circa una trentina di lettori.
Nel 1763 fu nominato lettore Fulgenzio Vitman, che convinse l’autorità a creare una struttura utile per l’insegnamento della Botanica pavese, cosi nel 1773 fu inaugurato l’Orto Botanico di via Sant’Epifanio, istituito con decreto del Plenipotenziario di Casa d’Austria a Milano, Conte Carlo Firmian.
Per la progettazione dell’Orto pavese fu usato come modello l’Orto dei semplici di Padova e si scelse di ricorrere in particolare all’esperienza di Giacomo Marsili, che lo dirigeva.
Nel 1774 fu insediato nell’edificio il Laboratorio di Chimica e nel 1775, sotto la direzione di Valentino Brusati (1773-1777) e con Giosuè Scannagatta come curatore, l’Orto era già aperto, mentre solo nel 1776 venne avviata la costruzione delle grandi serre in legno ideate da Giuseppe Piermarini.
Nel 1777, quando assunse la direzione Giovanni Antonio Scopoli (1777-1788) l’Orto Botanico arrivò al suo assetto definitivo, molto simile agli Orti Botanici più celebri, come di Padova, grazie alle ricche corrispondenze del nuovo direttore con numerosi botanici europei quali Adanson, Allioni, Arduin, Banks, Gessner, Gleditsch, Gmelin, Haller, Jacquin, Linneo.
Il lavoro di organizzazione dell’Orto continuò sotto il prefetto Domenico Nocca (1797-1826), che arrivò nel 1797, dopo aver diretto l’Orto Botanico di Mantova, che arricchì le collezioni con una serie di scambi di semi e di piante, oltre a sostenere il rifacimento delle serre facendole ricostruire da Luigi Canonica le strutture lignee con le nuove in muratura e aumentò inoltre quelle per la coltura di piante, che divennero una serie di edifici riparabili con vetri, esistenti ancora oggi.
Al Nocca successero Giuseppe Moretti (1826-1853) e poi Santo Garovaglio (1853-1882) che, nel 1871 inaugurò il nuovo Laboratorio Crittogamico per lo studio delle malattie delle piante dovute a crittogame parassite.
Il periodo di Giovanni Briosi (1883-1919) vide l’aggiunta di serre calde, di cui due sul lato meridionale dell’Istituto, e una, a forma di cupola, sovrastante una grande vasca.
Dopo Luigi Montemartini (1920-1926) e Gino Pollacci (1927-1942), nel 1943 fu nominato direttore dell’Orto Raffaele Ciferri (1943-1964) che se la vide con una serie di pesanti danni nelle strutture dell’Istituto, tanto che furono rimosse le serre sul lato meridionale dell’edificio, oggi la facciata monumentale dell’Istituto, e venne rimodellato l’impianto del giardino sull’esempio dei parchi delle ville lombarde del XVII e XVIII secolo.
Alla morte di Ciferri, Ruggero Tomaselli (1964-1982) semplificò l’organizzazione delle aiuole ed estese la collezione di specie arboree di latifoglie, oltre ad incrementare la collezione di Cicadacee e di piante grasse anche mediante importazioni dirette dai luoghi di origine e progettò la costruzione di una nuova serra tropicale.
Durante la successiva direzione di Augusto Pirola (1982-1996) vennero introdotte nuove collezioni (Hydrangea, Pelargonium, Hosta) e fu modificata l’impostazione della collezione di rose.
Dal 1997 l’Orto Botanico fa parte del Dipartimento di Ecologia del Territorio e degli Ambienti Terrestri, dove è confluito l’Istituto di Botanica, con direttore Francesco Sartori.
L’Orto Botanico si estende su una superficie coltivabile di circa due ettari ed è caratterizzato da una stratificazione di presenze storiche, nate da varie attività condotte in diversi momenti, alcune ora allo stato residuale, come l’arboreto gimnosperme, l’arboreto angiosperme e le piante officinali.
Ora è organizzato in collezioni viventi di piante ex-situ, come Roseto, Aiuola del Te, Serra delle orchidee, Serra tropicale Tomaselli, Serra delle piante utilitarie Briosi, Serre Scopoliane, Arboreto, Platano di Scopoli, Aiuole di piante autoctone della Pianura Lombarda, collezioni viventi di piante nella Riserva Naturale Integrale “Bosco S. Negri”, una struttura associata all’Orto Botanico, collezioni viventi di semi, conservate nella banca del germoplasma, e varie collezioni di essiccati, conservate nell’erbario all’interno dell’edificio dipartimentale annesso all’orto.
Il Centro Didattico della Riserva Naturale Integrale Bosco S. Negri propone, con attività di laboratorio e multimediali come conoscere l’ambiente peculiare di un bosco naturale di pianura; le specie che lo popolano, imparando a riconoscerle e a dare loro un nome; il suolo su cui si sviluppa e le sue caratteristiche.
La Banca del germoplasma nasce nel 2004 e oggi ospita sia semi di specie selvatiche autoctone, sia semi da coltivare d’interesse agronomico, grazie alla collaborazione con altre banche del germoplasma, nell’ambito della Rete Nazionale RIBES ed europea (ENSCONET, European Native Seed Conservation Network) e in particolare con la Millenium Seed Bank dei Royal Botanic Gardens di Kew, in Gran Bretagna.
L’Erbario di Pavia, localizzato nell’edificio dipartimentale, all’interno dell’Orto Botanico, fu fondato nel 1780 e oggi comprende un Erbario dedicato alle piante vascolari, di cui fanno parte l’Erbario Lombardo, con circa 23000 essiccati di flora lombarda, Erbario Generale e raccolte personali, riferibili a singoli autori quali Ciferri, Cobau, Gasparrini, e un Erbario Crittogamico, con raccolte Lichenologiche, Briologiche, Micologiche, Algologiche e di Myxomiceti.
La parte del giardino attualmente destinata a ospitare la collezione di rose è suddivisa in tre grandi aree, un folto gruppo di rose selvatiche, raccolte nelle aiuole marginali, con specie e ibridi naturali, le rose antiche, collocate in modo da evidenziare i legami con le sezioni precedenti e gli ibridi moderni nelle aiuole centrali.
Nell’Aiuola del Tè si trovano gli arbusti di tè (Camelia sinensis forma biologica ticinensis) coltivati dalla fine del XIX secolo.
Fu negli anni Settanta del XX secolo che su iniziativa del direttore dell’Orto Botanico Ruggero Tomaselli venne edificata la serra tropicale in vetro e metallo, che oggi ospita orchidee tropicali, tra cui specie di origine americana, quali Vanilla planifolia (vaniglia), Maxillaria tenuifolia, Maxillaria ferdinandiana, Bifrenaria harrisoniae, Mormolyca ringens, Epidendrum ciliare e Anacheilium baculus, mentre altre specie provengono dall’Asia orientale, come Cypripedium insigne, Coelogyne cristata, Dendrobium moschatum, Phalaenopsis equestris e Vanda tricolor.  Dendrobium kingianum di origine australiana.
A partire dal 2004, sono state allestite anche una serie di aiuole con piante autoctone della pianura lombarda, molte delle quali protette e rare, tra cui specie nemorali tipiche dei querco-carpineti e querco-ulmeti (quali Anemone nemorosa, Aristolochia pallida, Asparagus tenuifolium, Asphodelus albus, Carex brizoides, Carex pilosa, Convallaria majalis, Erythronium dens-canis, Iris sibirica, Leucojum vernum, Polygonatum multiflorum, Scilla bifolia, Vinca minor) e piante xerofile dei prati secchi (quali Achillea tomentosa, Anarrhinum bellidifolium, Armeria arenaria, Clematis recta, Dianthus  carthusianorum, Festuca stricta subsp. trachyphylla, Helianthemum nummularium, Hieracium pilosella, Lychnis viscaria, Polygonatum odoratum, Potentilla tabernaemontani, Rumex scutatus, Teucrium chamaedrys).
  L’Orto Botanico di Pavia Praticamente nel centro di Pavia, non lontano dal Palazzo del Comune, troviamo l’Orto Botanico…
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artscult-com · 7 years
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French Sorrel, rumex scutatus - high resolution image from old book.
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wealthypioneers · 2 years
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Rare Bloody Dock Red Sorrel Seeds, Organic Heirloom Non-GMO BN25 Bloody dock plant, aka red veined sorrel (Rumex sanguineus), is a rosette forming perennial from the buckwheat family. It generally grows in a clumping mound that reaches around 18 inches (46 cm.) in height and is just as wide Stunning foliage plant with elongated, medium green leaves, exquisitely veined in a brilliant burgundy-purple. A hardy perennial, it quickly forms an attractive clump, which sends up red flower clusters in early summer, followed by brown seed heads. A superb, deer-resistant accent plant. Count: ~25+ 6-12 hours of Sun Sprouts in 10-14 Days Ideal Temperature: 65-75 Degrees F Seed Depth: 1/4" Plant Spacing: 10-12" Frost Hardy: Yes Type: Annuals, Perennials Sun Exposure: Full Sun Water: Regular Water Family: Polygonaceae Type: Annuals, Perennials Sun Exposure: Full Sun Water: Regular Water Planting Zones: 4-11 Family: Polygonaceae Rumex sanguineus (Red) Bloody Dock Red Sorrel, bloodwort Bloody Sorrel / Red Dock, Rumex sanguineus ssp. sanguineus Red Vein Sorrel has edible leaves, which can be used raw in salads or cooked in soups, sauces, egg dishes. The flavor is like that of sharp, sprightly spinach, but sorrel is more heat tolerant and produces throughout the growing season. French sorrel (R. scutatus) is a more sprawling plant, to 112 feet high, with shorter, broader leaves and a milder, more lemony flavor than R. acetosa. Native to Europe, western Asia, and North Africa. The oxalic acid found in sorrel can replace lemon, which is often added to smoothies to balance out the taste. Grow sorrel in reasonably good soil. Sow seeds in early spring; thin seedlings to 8 inches apart. Or set out transplants at any time, spacing them 8 inches apart. Pick tender leaves when they are big enough to use; cut out flowering stems to encourage leaf production. Replace (or dig and divide) plants after 3 or 4 years. The plant grows to about 2 feet in height in clumps with pink flowers in racemose appearing during early summer. Upright, bright green leaves have exquisite deep red veins. A colorful and unique addition to perennial borders and mixed container plantings. Herbaceous. Growing Tips: Harvest tender leaves starting in early spring, remove flowering tops to keep leaves tender and to prevent unwanted volunteers. May become invasive in some climates. How to Grow Red Veined Sorrel Bloody dock plants are hardy to USDA zones 4-8 but can be grown as annuals in other areas. Sow the seeds directly into the garden in the spring or divide existing plants. Situate the planting in full sun to partial shade in average to moist soil. Bloody dock care is minimal, as this is a low-maintenance plant. It can be grown around ponds, in a bog, or in a water garden. Keep the plants moist at all times. The plant can be invasive in the garden if allowed to self-sow. Remove the flower stalks to prevent self-seeding and promote bushy leaf growth. Fertilize once a year in the spring. GROWING BLOODY DOCK Bloody dock is easy to grow from seed. It likes a evenly moist, well drained soil and partial shade. The red veins are already apparent when the plant is just 1/2" tall! Like any other greens, wash sorrel clumps thoroughly in clean running water and rinse in salt water for about 30 minutes in order to remove dirt and any insecticide residues. Bloody Dock can grow up to 3 feet tall and is a perennial up to zone 6. Like other Sorrel's, Bloody Dock grows continuously from early spring till late fall. As a perennial it's often one of the first greens available in the spring so if you're looking for a spring salad this would be a great choice. Many people simply plant Bloody Dock as a foliage plant similar to how you would use Hostas. It makes for a very striking border and if left to self seed will easily fill an empty area of your landscaping if desired. The fresh herb should be used early to get maximum nutrition. To store, keep wrapped in a damp towel and place in the refrigerator for extended use (up to 3 days). Harvesting tips I harvest red veined sorrel from my zone 5 garden all year round. In spring, summer, and autumn I have plants in my raised bed vegetable garden as well as in containers on my deck. In winter I like to have a couple of plants tucked into cold frames or in my polytunnel beds. There are two main ways to harvest sorrel: Pluck individual leaves as needed. For salads and fresh eating, I pick leaves that are three to four inches long. These are the most tender. Older leaves are tougher and sharper in flavor. Grow it as a ‘cut and come again crop’. Need a bunch of sorrel at once for pesto or another recipe? Shear the plants back to just a couple of inches above the ground. This gives you a big harvest but also forces the plants to push out new growth for future meals. MEDICINAL USES FOR BLOODY DOCK As an herb, Bloody Dock has shown great promise for preventing cancer and fighting high cholesterol and diseases of the circulatory system. It's high in vitamins A & C, iron and potassium. It has antiseptic and astringent properties and a decoction of the leaves can be used externally for healing cuts, burns, rashes, wounds, hemorrhoids, insect bites and boils. The tap root is often dug up in spring and dried for later use. Bloody Dock does contain a good amount of oxalic acid (like spinach and brassicas). This is the nutrient that's believed to fight cancer however, it can also contribute to kidney stones in high doses so it's recommended to not overdo it! Sorrel uses – Add to soups – Make it into a sauce for fish – Add to omelets and scrambled eggs – Add to stuffing for meat – Shred sorrel and stuff it into fish – Add to quiches – Add to mashed potatoes – Add to hummus – Add to pasta – Add to mixed-leaf and herb salads – Add to chard and spinach anywhere you would use those – Use as a filling for buckwheat crêpes – Make it into a pesto, to use in pasta, on pizzas, or with grilled salmon – Sorrel Smoothie Seeds are not individually packaged according to variety but are packaged in one envelope for this listing, please see other listings for individual varieties. Note: No tracking # will be provided to make the shipping cost-effective for us and free for you. Returns & exchanges Not accepted. But please contact me if you have problems with your order Our seeds are guaranteed to germinate. Once the seeds have sprouted, please understand that we cannot be held responsible for the many uncontrollable growing and climatic conditions that must be met to ensure the success of your crop(s). I try my best to make my buyers happy and would appreciate it if you'd contact me first if you have any questions or problems with your order. If you open a case before contacting me first, I will automatically block you from future purchases. Thank you for your understanding. Tags: #full sun tolerant #annuals #edible plant #perennials #showy leaves #colorful leaves #accent plant #pond margins #moist soil #well-drained soil #vegetable garden #herbaceous perennials #ditches #border planting #edible garden #edible leaves #clumping #container plant http://springsofeden.myshopify.com/products/rare-bloody-dock-red-sorrel-seeds-organic-heirloom-non-gmo-bn25
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lifegardenheaven · 5 years
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What To Do With Sorrel Herbs
What To Do With Sorrel Herbs
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Sorrel is a rare herb used was a very popular cooking ingredient. It finds its again Place among gourmets and with good reason. Sorrel has a lemony taste and grassy and is wonderful for many dishes. Interested in cooking with sorrel? Read on to learn how to make sorrel and what to do with sorrel.
Information on the use of sorrel herbs
In Europe cook with sorrel (Rumex scutatus) was the…
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colospaola · 7 years
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Praticamente nel centro di Pavia, non lontano dal Palazzo del Comune, troviamo l’Orto Botanico.   Da via S. Antonio Giovanni Scopoli s’intravede la facciata principale, con una maestosa scalinata, mentre l’entrata riservata ai visitatori è in via  Sant’Epifanio.
All’ingresso non si ha l’idea di quello che si potrà vedere dopo, un elegante chiostro, una biblioteca che racchiude erbari e libri antichi, e poi un parco/giardino ricco di fiori, piante, fontane, statue, un grazioso laghetto.
E’ un giardino pieno di colori, di profumi, qualche panchina, tranquillità.
Le fonti dicono che fin dal 1520 era presente un Orto a Pavia che conservava collezioni di Piante Officinali presso l’abitazione di Leonardo Leggi, allora lettore di Medicina Pratica Ordinaria dell’Università, ma l’ubicazione di questo primo Orto non è ancora oggi molto chiara, poiché si ritiene abbia cambiato sede più volte durante il lettorato dei Semplici, in cui si susseguirono circa una trentina di lettori.
Nel 1763 fu nominato lettore Fulgenzio Vitman, che convinse l’autorità a creare una struttura utile per l’insegnamento della Botanica pavese, cosi nel 1773 fu inaugurato l’Orto Botanico di via Sant’Epifanio, istituito con decreto del Plenipotenziario di Casa d’Austria a Milano, Conte Carlo Firmian.
Per la progettazione dell’Orto pavese fu usato come modello l’Orto dei semplici di Padova e si scelse di ricorrere in particolare all’esperienza di Giacomo Marsili, che lo dirigeva.
Nel 1774 fu insediato nell’edificio il Laboratorio di Chimica e nel 1775, sotto la direzione di Valentino Brusati (1773-1777) e con Giosuè Scannagatta come curatore, l’Orto era già aperto, mentre solo nel 1776 venne avviata la costruzione delle grandi serre in legno ideate da Giuseppe Piermarini.
Nel 1777, quando assunse la direzione Giovanni Antonio Scopoli (1777-1788) l’Orto Botanico arrivò al suo assetto definitivo, molto simile agli Orti Botanici più celebri, come di Padova, grazie alle ricche corrispondenze del nuovo direttore con numerosi botanici europei quali Adanson, Allioni, Arduin, Banks, Gessner, Gleditsch, Gmelin, Haller, Jacquin, Linneo.
Il lavoro di organizzazione dell’Orto continuò sotto il prefetto Domenico Nocca (1797-1826), che arrivò nel 1797, dopo aver diretto l’Orto Botanico di Mantova, che arricchì le collezioni con una serie di scambi di semi e di piante, oltre a sostenere il rifacimento delle serre facendole ricostruire da Luigi Canonica le strutture lignee con le nuove in muratura e aumentò inoltre quelle per la coltura di piante, che divennero una serie di edifici riparabili con vetri, esistenti ancora oggi.
Al Nocca successero Giuseppe Moretti (1826-1853) e poi Santo Garovaglio (1853-1882) che, nel 1871 inaugurò il nuovo Laboratorio Crittogamico per lo studio delle malattie delle piante dovute a crittogame parassite.
Il periodo di Giovanni Briosi (1883-1919) vide l’aggiunta di serre calde, di cui due sul lato meridionale dell’Istituto, e una, a forma di cupola, sovrastante una grande vasca.
Dopo Luigi Montemartini (1920-1926) e Gino Pollacci (1927-1942), nel 1943 fu nominato direttore dell’Orto Raffaele Ciferri (1943-1964) che se la vide con una serie di pesanti danni nelle strutture dell’Istituto, tanto che furono rimosse le serre sul lato meridionale dell’edificio, oggi la facciata monumentale dell’Istituto, e venne rimodellato l’impianto del giardino sull’esempio dei parchi delle ville lombarde del XVII e XVIII secolo.
Alla morte di Ciferri, Ruggero Tomaselli (1964-1982) semplificò l’organizzazione delle aiuole ed estese la collezione di specie arboree di latifoglie, oltre ad incrementare la collezione di Cicadacee e di piante grasse anche mediante importazioni dirette dai luoghi di origine e progettò la costruzione di una nuova serra tropicale.
Durante la successiva direzione di Augusto Pirola (1982-1996) vennero introdotte nuove collezioni (Hydrangea, Pelargonium, Hosta) e fu modificata l’impostazione della collezione di rose.
Dal 1997 l’Orto Botanico fa parte del Dipartimento di Ecologia del Territorio e degli Ambienti Terrestri, dove è confluito l’Istituto di Botanica, con direttore Francesco Sartori.
L’Orto Botanico si estende su una superficie coltivabile di circa due ettari ed è caratterizzato da una stratificazione di presenze storiche, nate da varie attività condotte in diversi momenti, alcune ora allo stato residuale, come l’arboreto gimnosperme, l’arboreto angiosperme e le piante officinali.
Ora è organizzato in collezioni viventi di piante ex-situ, come Roseto, Aiuola del Te, Serra delle orchidee, Serra tropicale Tomaselli, Serra delle piante utilitarie Briosi, Serre Scopoliane, Arboreto, Platano di Scopoli, Aiuole di piante autoctone della Pianura Lombarda, collezioni viventi di piante nella Riserva Naturale Integrale “Bosco S. Negri”, una struttura associata all’Orto Botanico, collezioni viventi di semi, conservate nella banca del germoplasma, e varie collezioni di essiccati, conservate nell’erbario all’interno dell’edificio dipartimentale annesso all’orto.
Il Centro Didattico della Riserva Naturale Integrale Bosco S. Negri propone, con attività di laboratorio e multimediali come conoscere l’ambiente peculiare di un bosco naturale di pianura; le specie che lo popolano, imparando a riconoscerle e a dare loro un nome; il suolo su cui si sviluppa e le sue caratteristiche.
La Banca del germoplasma nasce nel 2004 e oggi ospita sia semi di specie selvatiche autoctone, sia semi da coltivare d’interesse agronomico, grazie alla collaborazione con altre banche del germoplasma, nell’ambito della Rete Nazionale RIBES ed europea (ENSCONET, European Native Seed Conservation Network) e in particolare con la Millenium Seed Bank dei Royal Botanic Gardens di Kew, in Gran Bretagna.
L’Erbario di Pavia, localizzato nell’edificio dipartimentale, all’interno dell’Orto Botanico, fu fondato nel 1780 e oggi comprende un Erbario dedicato alle piante vascolari, di cui fanno parte l’Erbario Lombardo, con circa 23000 essiccati di flora lombarda, Erbario Generale e raccolte personali, riferibili a singoli autori quali Ciferri, Cobau, Gasparrini, e un Erbario Crittogamico, con raccolte Lichenologiche, Briologiche, Micologiche, Algologiche e di Myxomiceti.
La parte del giardino attualmente destinata a ospitare la collezione di rose è suddivisa in tre grandi aree, un folto gruppo di rose selvatiche, raccolte nelle aiuole marginali, con specie e ibridi naturali, le rose antiche, collocate in modo da evidenziare i legami con le sezioni precedenti e gli ibridi moderni nelle aiuole centrali.
Nell’Aiuola del Tè si trovano gli arbusti di tè (Camelia sinensis forma biologica ticinensis) coltivati dalla fine del XIX secolo.
Fu negli anni Settanta del XX secolo che su iniziativa del direttore dell’Orto Botanico Ruggero Tomaselli venne edificata la serra tropicale in vetro e metallo, che oggi ospita orchidee tropicali, tra cui specie di origine americana, quali Vanilla planifolia (vaniglia), Maxillaria tenuifolia, Maxillaria ferdinandiana, Bifrenaria harrisoniae, Mormolyca ringens, Epidendrum ciliare e Anacheilium baculus, mentre altre specie provengono dall’Asia orientale, come Cypripedium insigne, Coelogyne cristata, Dendrobium moschatum, Phalaenopsis equestris e Vanda tricolor.  Dendrobium kingianum di origine australiana.
A partire dal 2004, sono state allestite anche una serie di aiuole con piante autoctone della pianura lombarda, molte delle quali protette e rare, tra cui specie nemorali tipiche dei querco-carpineti e querco-ulmeti (quali Anemone nemorosa, Aristolochia pallida, Asparagus tenuifolium, Asphodelus albus, Carex brizoides, Carex pilosa, Convallaria majalis, Erythronium dens-canis, Iris sibirica, Leucojum vernum, Polygonatum multiflorum, Scilla bifolia, Vinca minor) e piante xerofile dei prati secchi (quali Achillea tomentosa, Anarrhinum bellidifolium, Armeria arenaria, Clematis recta, Dianthus  carthusianorum, Festuca stricta subsp. trachyphylla, Helianthemum nummularium, Hieracium pilosella, Lychnis viscaria, Polygonatum odoratum, Potentilla tabernaemontani, Rumex scutatus, Teucrium chamaedrys).
  L’Orto Botanico di Pavia Praticamente nel centro di Pavia, non lontano dal Palazzo del Comune, troviamo l’Orto Botanico…
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