#mucilaginous slime | Explore Tumblr Posts and Blogs

29pageshomestuckeveryday · 1 year

Text

Homestuck, page 253

youtube

[S] YOU THERE. BOY.

author commentary: this was a walkaround Flash page. You could move John around with the keyboard, click on things and choose commands. All options are shown in the book sequentially, thus making it a pointedly NON-interactive experience. But this really just means you don't have to click on stuff to read hidden words. They're visible already. When you look at it this way, interactive stuff isn't that amazing. Outcomes are hiding, and you have to go to the bother of unhiding them, which is kind of a chore. Life is interactive, which is among the reasons it's such a huge pain in the ass.

You would think that by designating an author-created reader/player to submit commands, the game would start moving along more smoothly. But, no.

This now somewhat resembles an old Nintendo Power strategy guide, with screenshots of the game and illustrations of the consequences of player actions. If this Flash game ever stumps you online, like you find yourself getting lost in the house, just take a peek in this book for some HOT TIPS, and you will be well on your way to becoming a Power Player. B)

11: Also, who wants to take a piss with that weird clown watching? I doubt John's cool with that.

15: John, please. The plot of Little Monsters is not foreshadowing the existence of mischievous imps in your house. It is CLEARLY foreshadowing the existence of an alien race called trolls about 2000 pages later. Get with the program!

16: Critical point #1: WV, the one typing the commands, knows who John Cusack is, which is weird even for Homestuck. (SEE: UNIVERSAL CONSTANT.)

20: Critical point #2: Dave is referring to the fact that the Ghostbusters are always getting drenched in a particularly mucilaginous brand of spooky slime in that movie, carrying sexual overtones which I think we're in agreement would be a shame and completely unnecessary to bring attention to under basically any circumstance.

22: Spoiler: John never does use the towel to clean up the oil in his room. I admit fully, I let that plot point get away from me.

28: "God dammit John, that isn't Michael Cera." Really long term spoiler: In an alternate universe, it literally is Michael Cera.

29: The way the gameplay worked out, most of the time the sprite would follow John so closely they would just overlap. That is one clingy clownsprite.

35: Yes, the cruxtruder is why he is housetrapped, and not the fact that his house is now confined to a small plateau towering over an abyss. Also, he can STILL go out through the back door! Homestuck is frequently host to some of the least literally homestuck children in the history of fiction.

38: "John: Exchange shitty figurines for palm of pennies and kick in the nuts. Transaction favors you overwhelmingly."

40: Hey, whoa, whoa… that last line about elderly wisdom. Foreshadowing anyone???

43: That case full of games: same one used by Death in Problem Sleuth. Wait! Did I make a note about that in the last book? Behold the inevitability of my befuddlement on such matters. I promise, you haven't seen the last of it. Probably half these notes will be me inadvertently repeating book one trivia.

47: Heh heh, John sure does irrationally hate Betty Crocker, the harmless baked goods corporation, doesn't he? Surely this is just a silly running gag and won't come back to haunt us in any significant way. Right? I mean… it just can't… could it? That would be blowing a gag way too far out of propo-oh fuck Crocker's gonna be last boss, isn't she.

51: In retrospect, it's pretty remarkable to examine the breadth of WV's basic understanding of things. He seems to know what a washer and dryer look like, and what they're for. And can give quality advice on when it is or isn't practical to launder your garments.

60: "Although, he doesn't know what a swing set is. Or damaged power lines. Or an electric meter. Or handcuffs. Or a kitchen." Maybe I spoke too soon.

64: "AUTHOR'S NOTE: RE: Cirque du Soleil. Best joke in Homestuck. You may now stop reading, and close the book."

65: Follow-up on the peanut allergy issue: I'm pleased to report it does in fact prove to be relevant later.

66: I like to picture dad first hanging that dumbass clown photo straight, looking at it for a while with a vaguely dissatisfied expression, and then tilting it.

76: In these early pages, particularly with the lonely and disquieting ambiance of the walkaround page, there was something that felt deeply troubling about all this strange harlequin shit. Ultimately, the edge was taken off somewhat when it turned out all clownish roads led to a stoned alien juggalo.

One thing the book doesn't do (or even the site most of the time) is convey how quickly all this stuff was made. This entire walkaround game was made in less than 24 hours, all drawn and written by me, and programmed by Gankro. When you have to write a large amount of text for many different user choices, you start to get very quippy and punchy to just get it all done. But then, that's sort of a stupid way to qualify these pages, since that is how literally every page in Homestuck was written, ever. And also all of these notes.

#Youtube

1 note · View note

vs-friendlyyours · 2 years

Text

Don't miss 6 Shocking fenugreek benefits for hair & 6 ways to use it

We use a lot of chemical shampoos, conditioners, sprays, and gels to get smooth, lustrous and bouncy hair. They are costly, and frequent use could harm your hair. Why are we looking for ghee when we have butter in our hands? This magic herb used from ancient times will help you to get healthy hair. Wanna know more?

If you have older family members at home, you would be aware of the fenugreek benefits for hair. We use fenugreek for various purposes from ancient times. It is used to manage diabetes, support feeding moms, helps people lose weight, get younger skin, treat several stomach issues, and does many other things. We’ll talk about its benefits for hair in this post, from problems with hair loss to early greying. Everyone wants their hair to be strong, healthy, and bouncy, right?

How fenugreek is good for hair?

Fenugreek has many vitamins and nutrients that are necessary for strong, healthy hair development. It has vitamin K, A, B1, C, iron, calcium, potassium, folic acid, and protein which are essential for healthy hair growth.

Additionally, it has potent anti-inflammatory and anti-fungal properties that preserve a healthy scalp environment and encourage thicker hair development.

Fenugreek benefits for hair

1. Provides soft and shiny hair

To get smooth, lustrous, and bouncy hair, we use a lot of chemical shampoos, conditioners, sprays, and gels. They are costly, and frequent use could harm your hair. Why are we looking for ghee when we have butter in our hands?

Fenugreek makes the hair soft, smooth, and glossy. The seeds’ slimy mucilaginous component gives them inherent conditioning characteristics. The slime is released when fenugreek seeds are soaked in water. And it’s just fantastic for hair. The coat of fenugreek moisturizes the hair from the inside out. Your hair gets smoother and shiner with every usage.

Related: Aloe Vera for smooth & shiny hair

2. Helps to reduce hair loss

Oops. Nowadays many people struggle with hair loss. This is brought on by things like poor hair maintenance, lack of nutrients, genetics, and environmental pollution. But everyone wants to have hair that is healthy and gorgeous. Anything that could be helpful? Yes, fenugreek, or methi, aids in solving this issue.

Fenugreek has lecithin, a natural emollient that hydrates and nourishes our hair. Additionally, it strengthens your hair from the roots up by nourishing it well. Thus, it effectively manages hair falling.

3. Repairs damaged hair

Many women and even some men visit salons for hair color and styling. Frequently doing this could harm our hair. Our bodies generate heat from the devices we use, which damages and dries out our hair.

Fenugreek contains large amounts of linoleic and oleic fatty acids, which are commonly found in skincare products. They are rich in fatty acids and have the highest oil concentrations of any seed (7.8% oil content).

Using fenugreek may heal the hair shaft when it has been harmed by dryness, heat, chemicals, color treatments, etc. It promotes thicker hair growth by enhancing cuticle integration in the hair shaft.

4. Fenugreek for dandruff

Dandruff is caused when the skin on the scalp is exfoliated too much. Nearly half of the world’s population has unusually severe skin flaking, which can be ongoing or brought on by certain triggers.

My son too got this issue. If he simply scrubs his hair lot of white flakes will be falling from his head. Is it so nasty to have this? How can we go out with this issue? It is quite visible in many cases.

Here comes a wonderful solution for this. Our scalp benefits greatly from fenugreek seeds. Its anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-inflammatory characteristics and natural saponins can aid in the removal of harmful germs that can be irritating the scalp and create flakes and dandruff.

5. Increase hair volume and thickness

Whether our hair is long or short, we want it to be thick and bouncy. If we maintain a routine for taking care of our hair, we will undoubtedly love having bouncy hair.

The tiny fenugreek seeds are a fantastic source of protein for hair. They help the hair appear fuller by giving it strength and volume. If you have fine hair and wish to add texture, it is extremely helpful.

6. Fenugreek to avoid premature greying

First of all, we should know why greying starts early. It is because of the loss of melanocytes in the hair follicle. Fenugreek is rich in iron and potassium which helps to solve premature greying issues. It balances the deficit of minerals required for melanin production and thus gives dark color naturally.

How to use fenugreek to get healthy hair?

#fenugreek #hairfall #dandruff flakes #longhair #softhair #grey hair

1 note · View note

oriyamiryu · 2 years

Text

“Mycorrhiza”

I dunno what Kind of mycorrhiza this would really count as? Should we consider it an extomycorrhiza with extraradical mycelial cords? Hmmmm well it glitters! and has a very confused infomercial on mycorrhiza too! Which is my warning that obviously I’m not an expert this is just info I collect for Fun and could’ve misread stuff yanno

Mycorrhiza - the symbiote relationship of a fungus and a plant (slime molds you affectionately) - of the funguses role in the plants rhizosphere (the layer of soil influenced by the waste products of roots and where the most soil associated microorganisms live - the root microbiome)

The bacteria and other microorganisms feed by grazing on the rhizodeposition - the casting off of old plant cells, adds carbon to the soil - and the secretion of proteins and sugars (called root exudates - a mucilaginous secretion of plant specific polysaccharides/long sugar chains, that stick to the tips of roots) While the roots provide the food the soil microorganisms and bacteria perform nutrient cycling (breakdown or reuse/reforming of organic or inorganic matter cyclically so that it can be used again for the production/creation of new biomass in the ecosystem? Water Cycle for example, lake water evaporates, condenses in the atmosphere, and then eventually precipitates back down into the environment again) and produce antibiotics needed by plants - right near their roots, since the soil microorganisms feed on the root exudates and then their own metabolic waste products are cycling or producing something of use to the plant in turn.

Hm hmm anyways Mycorhizza! Mycorhizza! Mycorhizzal Layerrre! So for mycorhizzal association symbiosis or mutualism or sometimes even fun and funky parasitism, the mycorrhiza fungus grows on the host plants roots tissues in either of two ways - intracellularly (taking place/involving the inside of a cell) or extracellularly (taking place/involving the space outside of the cells plasma membrane)

Arbuscular mycorrhiza (AM) fungus (AMF) is an intracellular version which involves the symbiont fungus getting into the cortical cells (of the cortex - an outer layer of a stem or root in a plant below the epidermis but beyond the vascular water veins) of the roots or vascular plants (so sorry mosses maybe next time bryophytes) to form arbuscules (sites of nutrient exchange in the mycorrhiza relationship) AMF are good at absorbing phosphorus, sulfur, nitrogen, and other stuff from the soil, so good in fact that it’s suspected that AMF eating up said elements and passing it on through the arbuscules to vascular plants is part of how vascular plants became widespread and prevalent enough to colonize most of the earth - the AMF mycorrhiza is the most common type of plant symbiosis out there, present in up to 80% of plants (Wao much fungus amongus plants and fungus are mutual(istic)s, besties even!)

Wikipedia: hyphal growth

Me: HYPHAE!!!! WE LOVE HYPHAE!!!

Let’s talk more about ✨Arbascular mycorrhizal fungus✨since it seems Fun ::3

So AMF comes to be in a nice three step recipe or spore germination (not dependent on host plants presence but can happen at an increased rate in the presence of root exudates - the polysaccharide or long sugars or proteins etc), hyphal growth (which is controlled - gasp! nooo fungus free thyself and spread hyphae everywhere! - by root exudates called strigolactones (chemical compound group created by roots, considered plant hormones - they promote mycorrhiza germination, get the host plant recognized As the host plant by the fungi parasites, and keep plant roots from budding too much into an energy deficient monster of a root system - Wao) and the soil-phosphorus concentration - lower concentration means more hyphal growth plus plant releases hyphal growth encouraging juice) and appressorium formation (appressorium is a special type of cell that is used for infecting host plants…. So this is the bit that worms it’s way into the cortical cells? Neat excuse me this shit can get through Mylar wtf fungus What Violence What Rage tis beautiful)

*points at chemotaxis* they’re in love your honor! (Platonically) - so remember how we said chemical signaling attracts the hyphae to gather to the host (also notably when host puts out come hither for symbiote purposes signals the hyphae grow in denser clusters around the host and when there’s Not they branch more) Anyways chemotaxis is movement of organism in response to chemical stimulus but it’s speculated the AMF fungus may experience host-specific chemotaxis (fig trees fig wasps fig trees fig wasps oh to evolve into codependency - is not my dream but live yours little arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi!)

Appressorium (burrows into your house and home) or infection structures (oh that’s such a Badass term) grows first on the epidermis of the roots (outside skin!!!!) then from there it punctures into the Parenchyma cortex (parenchyma in plants is the softer cell areas, so inside roots tough outside - it’s the nice chewy bits not the outside of the ginger you scrape off with a spoon yah Dig?) Once our Totally Not Invasive haha what’re you talking about it has benefits for the plants Shush Appressorium has gotten into the parenchyma the fungus super branches to form the arbuscule sites of nutrient exchange (the straw may be one hole - wasn’t that the mathematical answer? But it is bidirectional) arbuscule growth can be Paris type (coily! Going through cells to each new one) or Arum type (branched,in the spaces between cells) - which type depends on the host generally… since the host has a degree of control over the hyphal branching and arbuscule formation (the host says you may have Three sites of nutrient exchange and No More!!! Can’t disobey hospitality rules, that doesn’t abide by fae law after all oh dear does that mean mushroom are fae better go teach them how to Trick the host into breaking hospitality rules though that might be a bad idea as well)

OH THEYRE OBLIGATE SYMBIOTES? Nice hey wait that means they’re not super good at Saprotrophic nutrition?? But that’s onna the best sorts of extracellular digestion (phagocytosis is still winning because I’m fond of it) but!!! *oozes and digests decaying and rooting organisms* is such a close contender!!!! Oh well this burrowing stuff is neat too Dependent On Plant For Carbon Nutrition and all

Anyways! Let’s move onto ectomycorrhizal fungus!!! *singing* extracellular symbiote tiiiiime

Ectomycorrhizal (I have to sound that out in my head everytime I type it) fungus or EcM (eckem! May I have your attention) deal with around 10% of plant families (oh woah so AMF are tots winning huh) particularly Woody Plants! Like birches dipterocarps (who? Oh!!!!!!! Rainforest trees that’s ideal I love dipterocarps your branching system is very cool even if the competition is Tight), eucalyptus, oak, pine, rose families (rosaceae?), orchids (did you know some (is it most? All? Gastrodia?) orchids go through a stage of life where essentially their only source of nutrition is from their symbiote fungus? They can’t photosynthesize during this time so it’s the EcM feeding them OwO cool intersectionalism) and… other fungi from Basidiomycota (major subcategory or fungus, uhhh mostly Above ground when mature funguses it seems? Mushrooms, puffballs, stinkhorns, then a lot of living-on-plants fellows liek rusts (on leaves) and smuts (in the cereals) and more - filamentous fungi made up of hyphae with basidia cells (spore sites!) that gen produce four meiospores (haploid spores, meiosisized to quarter genetic information kinda? For remix purposes?)), Ascomycota (the Other big fungi phylum, in Dikarya (fungi subkingdom) sac fungi! Cause of the sac where they form ascospores which can move around on their own! Need for pollinators morels and baking yeast are sac fungi! Fun), and Zygomycota (an ex-phylum that became the phyla Mucuromycota (mostly mycorrhizal fungi and plant decomposers) and Zoopagomycota (often obligate parasites of other zygomycete fungi or animals, like nematodes NOOOO THE WORMS))

Some trees will have up to fifteen species of EcM in a symbiote with them (ahhhh????) also fun the EcM isn’t losing either cause while AMF have 80% of plant life there are only around 240 species but the EcM have approx 7750 species known but its suspected the numbers are closer to 20-25k (Wao!!!!)

Ectomycorrhiza grow in a hyphal sheath or a mantle around the end of the hosts roots and form a Hartig Net (net of inward growing hyphae that grow in between the epidermis and the cortex of the host, the space that acts as the site of nutrient exchange) sometimes despite being extracellular the EcM hyphae will penetrate the hosts cells, in which case it’s an ectendomycorrhiza mycorrhiza…. Outside of the mantle and root the EcM forms ectomycorrhizal extramatrical mycelium (or extraradical mycelium) which are filamentous hyphae that grow outwards into the soil with the ectomycorrhiza as the center point - the filamentous hyphae may be fine and hydrophilic (attracted to water) constantly branching in the soil to search for nutrients, or they may gather into rhizomorphs (or mycelial cords - parallel orientated hyphae, which are hydrophobic and strong for the purpose of transporting nutrients)

#sculpture #beading #mycorrhizal fungi #mycorrhiza #root system #magpie instincts made me do it #sparkly chandelier sculptures everywhere

14 notes · View notes

botaniqueer · 3 years

Text

The Malabar spinach (Basella alba rubra, 100 days) is doing well for itself! It’s absolutely massive to the point where keeping it in my space space is difficult at times because it keeps trying to climb the other plants or on the light fixture.

I also learned that they’re super easy to graft together! Though this might not actually be useful because it seems not only that they’re self pollinating, but also that the flowers don’t open at all and just go straight to being berries? Unless I’m mistaken and those are still maturing flower buds. But if I’m right it means I can’t actually cross pollinate/selectively breed them and I can only change them through chance gamete mutations or genetic modification.

For those who asked, they basically taste like a milder less gritty spinach! They’re more mucilaginous like okra fruit are so they’re more for cooked meals and not raw salads unless you don’t mind the slime. The stems and inflorescences taste like bean sprouts!

They’re also super easy to propagate by cutting! I’m probably going to end up selling them in the cafe I sell my other stuff at, and maybe through Etsy if I can get over my fear of shipping plants.

#basella #food plants #plants #flowers #plampts

28 notes · View notes

gardenassist · 3 years

Link

In this article, we will illustrate the most common microgreens which considered highly healthiest and profitable In a previous article, we reviewed in detail six important things you should be known before you start selling your microgreens.

1. Sunflower

Sunflower microgreens are probably the most popular on the market. They are usually easy to grow and only take 7-10 days to mature. However, they can sometimes have problems with germination, certain diseases, and husk shedding.

For these reasons, they are not among the most recommended microgreens for beginners. Growing these microgreens in the soil is recommended while growing them hydroponically is more difficult.

Sunflower microgreens are excellent in sandwiches, soups, salads, scrambled eggs, and wraps. Both the leaves and the stems are edible.

Try adding them to a sandwich to get the typical flavor of the seeds, but with the freshness and beauty of microgreens, or accompanied by cheese to add that extra touch that never hurts.

2-Pea

Pea microgreens are also very common and are one of my favorites. They are easy to grow in soil and take about 8-14 days to mature. They can also be grown hydroponically and produce a good yield.

Pea microgreens have a slightly sweet taste, with a bitter aftertaste. In the kitchen, they can add a pleasant touch of freshness to dishes to which they are added, giving a milder character and adding rich and natural flavors to any dish.

They are great in salads or even quickly sauteed with some garlic, soy sauce, and ginger. These peas are ideal for adding a touch of freshness and color to salads, as well as soups and stews.

3-Broccoli

Broccoli grows very quickly and is one of the easiest microgreens to grow. If you have the optimal conditions, such as the right temperature, water and growing medium, these beautiful and tasty microgreens can be ready in as little as six days. It can be grown in soil or hydroponically and is perfect for beginners.

It is a robust and substantial microgreen that has a fresh, mild cabbage flavor. They are also popular for their health benefits as they are a great source of sulforaphane. It is an excellent choice as a base for any salad made with microgreens.

4-Basil

Basil is an excellent microgreen that can be grown for commercial purposes. All cooks know and use basil because it is an ingredient they use in pasta, salads, and many sauces.

Basil is the main ingredient in Genovese pesto. Therefore, you can sell it quickly because there is a good demand and cooks love to have an extra fresh product. It can be grown in soil, but hydroponics is preferable.

Basil seeds are mucilaginous, which means that when the seeds get wet, a gel-like substance called mucilage forms. As such, mucilaginous seeds require a little more care and observation than other microgreens.

Because the seeds become sticky with the slime gel, they are often described as difficult to grow. They may not be the best choice for beginners.

5-Cress

Cress microgreens grow well in soil or hydroponically. There are several varieties, and it is a fairly well-known plant among microgreens enthusiasts. Its cultivation requires less water than most other microgreens.

Thanks to its distinctive flavor, watercress can be used in numerous recipes; add watercress to egg mayonnaise sandwiches, salads, and soups, or use it to garnish canapés and grilled dishes.

It can also be used as a base for sauces and condiments to pair with fish, especially salmon, shrimp, and shellfish in general. They are often combined with ginger to obtain a mixture of, especially spicy flavors.

6- Radish

Radish microgreens are among the easiest microgreens to grow indoors and also among the fastest-growing. They are suitable for any cultivation (in soil or hydroponic). Under certain conditions, they can be ready to harvest as soon as six days after planting.

Radish microgreens have mild sweet and spicy notes. They can make a colorful and tempting ingredient in your vegan or vegetarian sandwiches, but they’re also perfect for adding to salads of all kinds.

They are incredibly juicy, and for this reason, they can become a natural condiment for various preparations (risotto, sandwiches, pasta). They can be added to salads to give them a stronger flavor, and they go perfectly with a crab salad along with cucumbers. Finally, many use them to give appetizers an extra touch.

7-Arugula

If you’re just getting started growing microgreens, growing arugula microgreens is a great way to start. It’s a popular plant with chefs and hobbyists alike, with a spicy, nutty flavor that will jazz up most dishes. It also grows very quickly (both in soil and hydroponically) and can typically be harvested in about ten days.

Arugula is one of the most popular microgreens because of its distinctive spicy, nutty, almost tart flavor that develops into a bitter and spicy taste. Arugula microgreens are delicious raw because when cooked, they lose their characteristic spiciness.

Perfect for summer pizzas, omelets, chips, pasta, or rice. Its bitter taste makes it ideal to be combined with many other ingredients, including other microgreens such as arugula, peas, sunflowers, and red chard.

8. Cilantro/Coriander

Coriander is a well-known plant, very good to eat and beautiful to look at. It is not one of the easiest or fastest microgreens to grow, as it can take up to 28 days before you can harvest. It is better to choose soil growing for this microgreen, as hydroponic growing can be very difficult.

Cilantro microgreens are suitable for raw preparations, especially as a garnish, as they wilt with prolonged exposure to heat. They have a bright, sweet, and spicy flavor without the soapy, bitter character that mature cilantro can develop.

Micro-cilantro leaves are most commonly used in Mexican, Indian, Thai, and Chinese cuisine and can be placed on eggs and egg rolls to add a bright flavor to lobster and crab, mixed with polenta or even chopped into a sauce.

Coriander microgreens go well with avocado, carrots, zucchini, tomatoes, coconut milk, citrus fruits, ginger, mint, lemongrass, chilies, yogurt, chicken, white lamb fish and only need to be added at the final stage of a dish.

9. Amaranth

Amaranth is a microgreen with amazing color and flavor. It grows quite quickly, both in soil and hydroponically. Growing it in soil, however, is a bit easier.

It can be ready to harvest as soon as 12 days after sowing. It does not like cold weather, so it is best to grow it in a warm enough place. It can also suffer if exposed to too much direct light.

This microgreen has a robust flavor, similar to mustard, but much less pungent. Thanks to its tart but pleasant flavor, it can be eaten raw in fresh salads and pairs well with carrots, cucumbers, and radicchio. Its striking colors make it a great side dish or a delicious addition to any salad.

10- Beet

Growing beet microgreens requires special care and is therefore suitable for advanced growers. You can still put up with this extra work because these plants have many good qualities: Color, mild beet flavor, and concentrated nutrient content.

These microgreens are incredibly rich in vitamins K, A, and C. They are also rich in protein, fiber, and antioxidants. Beet microgreens are easy to digest, so they are good for your health and are in demand in the market. They can only be grown in soil and take at least twenty days to ripen.

Thanks to their blood-red color, they are especially good for livening up delicious salads and adding sparkle to them. You can use them as a garnish to sandwiches or as an ingredient in numerous dishes, such as in savory pie with beets and spinach.

It is always recommended to use raw red chard microgreens to prevent their nutritional properties from being lost during cooking.

11-Borage

Borage is a moderate to easy microgreen to grow, but with a little patience, you can get great results. Borage microgreens add flavor profiles to salads, soups, and sandwiches.

Young leaves with a unique flavor are an intriguing addition to a variety of dishes. In addition to great flavor and tender texture, they also contain many nutrients. Young borage leaves and stems have a pleasant taste and smell like fresh cucumbers with an aftertaste of cantaloupe.

You can add them to sandwiches, salads, meat, fish, and vegetables or use them to season sauces and decorate plates.

12-Cabbage

Cabbage is one of the most popular microgreens in the world. It has a pink stem, dark green leaves with purple edges, and veins.

Cauliflower microgreens are easy to grow both in soil and hydroponically. It can be ready for harvest as early as 12 days after sowing It is rich in vitamins and mineral salts, boosts the immune system, and (as researchers found) significantly lowers triglyceride and cholesterol levels.

They protect against cardiovascular diseases. Its taste is delicate and sweet: it is excellent for enriching salads, sandwiches, pasta or risotto.

13-Kohlrabi

Kohlrabi is often called German turnip. It belongs to the same family as cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower. It grows quite quickly, both in soil and hydroponically.

Kohlrabi microgreens can be grown in as little as 2 weeks. They are ready to eat as soon as the first leaves appear and have lavender stems with green leaves.

Kohlrabi microgreens taste similar to turnips, which may be where the name comes from. They are sweeter and a great addition to any dish. You would probably describe them as more of a sweet broccoli flavor. They offer a super high vitamin C content, so they have a slightly sour taste.

Great for eating in salads, garnishing pizzas, or as a topping for various types of focaccias. Excellent, simply wilted in a pan, for garnishing canapes with liver and butter or canapes with seafood and raw garlic.

14-Trunip

Traditionally grown alongside carrots, beets, and parsnips, turnips are one of the oldest and most popular root vegetables around and one of the easiest to grow in both soil and hydroponics.

The high levels of nutrients in turnip microgreens can help prevent many diseases by reducing the risk of coronary heart disease, stroke or high blood pressure.

Turnip microgreens have the right concentration of flavor, nutrients, and a pleasant and intense aroma. They have a taste like a spicy kale or spinach. They are pleasing to the eye and ideal to complete any dish.

15-Onion

Growing onion microgreens is easy but somewhat slow with a maturity time of 15 to 21 days. It is recommended to grow these microgreens in soil.

One great thing about onion microgreens is that you can get a second and third cutting from your first planting. Unlike most microgreens, the growth is from the bottom, not the top. The yield will be lower on the second cutting, but we think it’s worth saving for another harvest.

Onion microgreens are a rich source of various micronutrients, especially vitamins and minerals. Some of the lipophilic vitamins are much higher in microgreens than in mature plants, and the vitamin E content of microgreens is forty times higher.

In addition, microgreens are an excellent source of several bioactive compounds. Since onion microgreens are delicious, they can be used in salads, sandwiches, and soups as an additional ingredient. It does not contain gluten and lactose and can be used by vegetarians and vegans.

16-Fennel

Fennel microgreen is easy to grow in soil and takes about 8-14 days to mature. It can regrow, so you can get a second and third cutting from your first planting It is widely known for its licorice (anise) flavor, along with its sweet and peppery notes.

It became famous in upscale restaurants in America in the 80s and 90s, adding a finishing touch to many dishes. Fennel microgreens are great as a garnish for savory or sweet dishes; they are thin, green, and tender and have a slight anise flavor, making them a great garnish for Italian or Indian dishes.

The special taste of micro fennel vegetables makes them ideal for summer salads or centrifuged.

17. Mustard – Spinach (Komatsuna)

This vegetable, which belongs to the Brassicaceae family, is cultivated in Asian countries. Especially in Japan for centuries. It has a mildly spicy flavor and is rich in nutrients.

Mustard Microgreens, like most brassicas, grow quickly and consistently under the right conditions. It grows quite quickly, both in soil and hydroponically. It can be ready for harvest as early as 12 days after sowing.

Its flavor is slightly bitter and peppery, adding a subtle note to dishes raw and cooked. “Komatsuna” microgreens can also be enjoyed by adding them to fried foods, pasta dishes, and pizzas.

Either way, using “Komatsuna” Microgreens in a salad mix with other vegetables, in a sandwich or lightly sautéed, are a very nutritious as well as a tasty food source.

18-Mizuna

Mizuna is a green leafy vegetable native to East Asia, also called Japanese mustard. Part of the genus Brassica, mizuna is related to other cruciferous vegetables such as broccoli, cauliflower, kale, and Brussels sprouts.

It can be grown in soil or hydroponically and can be harvested as microgreens after 8 to 12 days or as baby greens after about 25 days.

It has dark green, serrated leaves with thin stems and a peppery, slightly bitter, and sour taste like arugula. Although it is often grown for salad mixes, it can also be enjoyed cooked or pickled.

19-Nasturtium

Nasturtium is a trendy ornamental plant that also finds its uses in the kitchen. Its flowers, leaves, and seeds are edible and valued for their medicinal properties. Nasturtium microgreens are easy to grow in loamy soil with moderate water and plenty of light.

They do not grow easily in hydroponic growing media. It is possible, though very difficult.

They have a peppery flavor and aroma and are delicious in many recipes including salads, sandwiches, eggs, and meats. They are becoming a popular addition to sushi as they have a similar spiciness to wasabi.

The tasty and healthy young nasturtium leaves and sprouts contain vitamin C, beta-carotene, and lutein. They show anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects.

20-Tatsoi

Tatsoi Microgreens are another variety in the long list of brassicas. Like most brassicas, they are very easy and quick to grow, both in soil and hydroponically. Under the right conditions, they can be ready to harvest as soon as 12 days after sowing.

Their taste is similar to cabbage but spicier. They have an aromatic and spicy flavor but are more tender and sweeter. They are perfect as a side dish to dishes of all kinds, such as grilled lunches or even your favorite dishes.

The tatsoi micro vegetables are also used to make fresh and very nutritious salads, perhaps along with other micro vegetables such as red mustard or mizuna. Sometimes they are used to enrich vegetable soups or to add an extra aromatic touch to sandwiches.

0 notes

hyaenagallery · 4 years

Photo

Star jelly (also called astromyxin, astral jelly) is a gelatinous substance sometimes found on grass or even on branches of trees. According to folklore, it is deposited on the Earth during meteor showers. Star jelly is described as a translucent or grayish-white gelatin that tends to evaporate shortly after having "fallen." There have been reports of star jelly for centuries. John of Gaddesden(1280–1361), for example, mentions stella terrae (Latin for 'star of the earth' or 'earth-star') in his medical writings, describing it as "a certain mucilaginous substance lying upon the earth" and suggesting that it might be used to treat abscesses. A fourteenth-century Latin medical glossary has an entry for uligo, described as "a certain fatty substance emitted from the earth, that is commonly called 'a star which has fallen.'" Similarly, an English-Latin dictionary from around 1440 has an entry for "sterre slyme" with the Latin equivalent given as assub (a rendering of Arabic ash-shuhub, also used in medieval Latin as a term for a "falling" or "shooting" star). The Oxford English Dictionary lists a large number of other names for the substance, with references dating back to the circa-1440 English-Latin dictionary entry mentioned above: star-fallen, star-falling, star-jelly, star-shot, star-slime, star-slough, star-slubber, and star-slutch. Slightly related, the slime mold Enteridium lycoperdon is called "caca de luna" (moon's excrement) by the locals in the state of Veracruz in Mexico. A long article in the paranormal magazine Fate declared star jelly to be of extraterrestrial origin, calling it "cellular organic matter" which exists as "prestellar molecular clouds" which float through space. In The Book of British Amphibians and Reptiles (page 138), author M. Smith states that star jelly is most likely formed from the glands in the oviducts of frogs and toads. Birds and mammals will eat the animals but not the oviducts which, when they come into contact with moisture, swell and distort leaving a vast pile of jellylike substance sometimes also referred to as otter jelly. #destroytheday https://www.instagram.com/p/B_kRCWxBPLO/?igshid=cmmoowub3cyw

#destroytheday

0 notes

esthermedson · 6 years

Text

12 AMAZING BENEFITS OF OKRA

And no, I’m not here to talk about “okro soup”, delicious as it is.

Okra, or okro (Nigerian lingo), is a green vegetable plant bearing edible green pods which contains small white seeds. Okra is mucilaginous, resulting in the characteristic slime produced when the pods (okra) are cooked. As far as Nigeria (and West Africa) is concerned, Okra is used chiefly in making Okra soup, but worldwide,…

View On WordPress

#did you know?#Food facts #Food-i-pedia

0 notes

omc-juniperpublishers · 4 years

Text

Biofilms: A Comprehension of Microbial Chemical Ecology-JuniperPublishers

Journal of Chemistry-JuniperPublishers

Abstract

Biofilms present a beautiful example of Microbial Ecology Evidences from the past glorious history of Microbiology has established it in the field of science. Many aspects of biofilms include the chemical ecological characters, including the hydrodynamics of the surface- microbial interaction. Apart from this, many other important community characters exist in biofilms.

Abbreviations: ESP: Extracellular Polymeric Substance; SEM: Scanning Electron Microscopy; TEM Transmission Electron Microscopy

Short Communication

With the discovery of the first microbial life form, credited to van Leeuwenhoek, who studied and concluded the existence of surface attached microorganisms on the tooth slime layer, it was in the later phase of microbiological advances that this slime layer, which was an altogether distinct phenotypic character, was coined the term, biofilms. Future research by Heukelekian and Heller [1], along with Zobell [2], established the phenomenon of surface kinetics in the exponential growth of the microbial life forms. Observations clearly reflected the substantially positive effect on the growth rate of the bacteria. The biofilms were not only tough in their composition, but also resistant to disinfectants and surfactants, as observed by Characklis [3], in his study on the microbial slimes as a result of waste water and industrial effluents. Initial studies on the ecological aspects of biofilms, started when Costerton and his team [4] propounded a theory of adherence of the microorganisms to various living and non-living surfaces and the benefits which the obtained from this micro - niche. From that time to the current scenario, last four decades have seen revolutionary changes in the various aspects of biofilm studies. The sophisticated Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) technique, Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM), technique and microbiological and serological have elevated the level of characterization studies.

Biofilms: Population Dynamics

Scientifically a biofilm can be considered as an assemblage of microbial cells which is covered by a mucilaginous protective matrix which is composed of polysaccharide material. Apart from this, this matrix has an irreversible adhesion with the surface, i.e. it is not easy to remove by gentle physical removal methods. The nature of bio film depends a lot on its place of origin. As such, those originating in an aqueous system are known to be much complex than those produced on a solitary medical aperture, device or catheter. Complexity not only lies in the cellularity but also in the Extracellular Polymeric Substance (EPS) or polysaccharide matrix composition as well as other colony characters.

Surface characterization studies have always been a prime concern with respect to biofilms. Characklis and his team [5], concluded that microbial colonization gets aggravated with an increase in roughness as comparison to even surfaces. This attributes to increase in the surface area and decrease in the shear forces. The rate of film formation also gets affected by the surface physico-chemical properties. The extent and time period for initiation of the biofilm in an aqueous medium interacting with the surface substrate, depends upon the conditioning of the polymers of the medium to the substrate surface. Reports on the conditioned biofilm formation were proposed by Loeb and Neihof [6]. Another factor which affects the hydrodynamics of the chemical interaction between the microbial cells and the substrate surface is surface energy of the suspending medium [7]. Theoretically, hydrodynamic boundary exists, when any liquid flows on a substrate. The liquid which is in immediate contact with the substrate or the interface has a negligible flow velocity. This interface is termed as Hydrodynamic boundary layer. Above this layer, the region of turbulence exists, thus, affecting the cell- surface interactions. The cells behave as particles, the rate of settlement of which depends greatly on the velocity characteristics of the suspended medium [8]. Apart from, the rate of flow of the suspension also marks the nutrient uptake and polymerization required for biofilm formation [9].

Architectural studies on the nature and structure of biofilms proves it to be a misnomer that, it is a homogenous polymer coated or conditioned colony of single type of cells. Rather, its heterogeneous nature, is gets more established evidences in form of micro channels present in between two or more micro colonies in an EPS matrix [10]. Moreover, the thickness of the EPS matrix is dependent upon the number of component microorganisms, such as separate in vitro biofilms of Klebsiella pneumoniae and Pseudomonas aeruginosa were thinner than the combined form [11].

The Community Characteristics of Biofilm Ecology

The biofilm micro colonies ideally fit into the ecological phenomenon of community with its own set of community characters or community dynamics. This system is an abode with ideal environment supporting transfer of genes and characters, creating a nutrient gradient, and setup of cellular interaction machinery known as quorum sensing [8]. Extra chromosomal gene transfer through conjugation is a common phenomenon in biofilms and occurs with much efficiency and a fast pace [12]. Apart from this, evidences have been given in favour of quorum sensing mediated transformation [13], which is also much quicker as compared to planktonic cells. Other important community characteristics include interaction with other microorganisms, dispersive nature, much more adapted to the environment, leading to stability in their structure.

Conclusion

The biofilms have been of great concern with respect to clinical perspectives. They have to found in direct association with diseases like Cystic fibrosis, native valve endocarditis, otitis media, periodontitis, etc., where biofilm- associated microbes have been reported. Further, broad ranges of indwelling medical devices have proved to provide a suitable environment for bio film formation.

To know more about Journal of chemistry,

Click here: https://juniperpublishers.com/omcij/index.php

To know more abour juniper Publishers,

click here: https://juniperpublishers.com/index.php

#Juniper Publishers Indexing Sites List #Juniper Publishers #JuniperPublishers #Juniper Publishers group #Juniper Publisher Reviews #organic chemistry #inorganic chemistry #open access journals #Open access Journal of chemistry #chemistry #chemistry journal

0 notes

healthy-food-beauty-fitness-blr · 4 years

Video

youtube

How To Make Gut-Healing Tea!+More!

Before we get to this tea recipe, which is at the end of the video, let's get closer look to it's ingredients. When it comes to supporting digestion and your gastrointestinal (GI) tract, consider teas. As you sip, the healing properties of your herbs come into direct contact with the digestive system from the moment you inhale their aromas and let the tea touch your tongue. Most digestive herbs taste pleasant (excluding strong bitters) and extract well in hot water. The simple ritual of brewing and sipping a gut-healing tea invokes good, healing, self-care vibes, too.

Mucilaginous and Demulcent Herbs!

These herbs soothe, reduce inflammation, and promote healing of the GI lining from top to bottom. They extract best in water and have a slippery feel. This soothes the GI tract when it’s dry, inflamed, irritated, or damaged, and helps create a temporary mucus-like lining. Strongly mucilaginous (mucus-like) herbs include marshmallow root, slippery elm bark, and aloe inner gel. Demulcent yet only slightly mucilaginous herbs include licorice root, plantain leaf, and meadowsweet flower.

Marshmallow (Althaea officinalis)!

Hands down, marshmallow is our favorite mucilaginous herb. The root powder provides the most mucilaginous slime, but the snot-like consistency can be off-putting and may also trigger gas and bloating in some people with dysbiosis (including SIBO and FODMAP sensitivities).

We prefer the cut/sifted root, which forms a more velvety, almost creamy mouthfeel. Also enjoy or opt for marshmallow leaf and flower, which are even better tolerated by people with dysbiosis and easier to harvest in abundance from the garden. Mucilage extracts best as a long infusion (several hours or overnight), but the leaves release the goods in less time. Some herbalists prefer a cold infusion for a purer mucilage extraction, but hot infusions do just fine and will extract more from other herbs in your gut-healing tea blend.

Vulnerary Herbs!

The term “vulnerary” means wound-healing, promoting the speed and quality of tissue repair. Many of the herbs we classically consider topical wound healers, including Calendula, plantain, gotu kola, and licorice, are also excellent GI vulneraries in a gut-supportive tea blend.

Plantain Leaf (Plantago spp.)!

Almost any gut-healing tea blend we whip up contains at least 5 to 20 percent plantain leaf. Though plantain is best known as a fresh poultice for stings and bites, in the GI tract it provides vulnerary, gently astringent, demulcent, and even antimicrobial (perhaps biofilm busting) activities with a bland flavor that lends itself well to tea blends.

Gentle Astringent Herbs!

Gentle astringents help tighten and tone the lining of the digestive tract when it’s boggy or leaky. These herbs often have modest antimicrobial activity as well, but they may irritate the GI lining and aggravate constipation if used in excessive amounts. They include rose petals, cinnamon, raspberry leaf, and plantain leaf.

Rose Petals (Rosa spp.)!

A sprinkle of rose petals brightens any tea blend and puts a smile on your face as you brew it, and it also offers gentle astringency. Interestingly, roses have mild antimicrobial action against pathogens yet encourage beneficial gut flora.

Aromatic Herbs!

First and foremost, aromatic herbs lend flavor to your gut-healing tea blend, but they also have additional benefits. Most aromatic herbs are also carminative, which encourages digestive function and eases gas, bloating, and spasms. Many have some level of antimicrobial activity ranging from mild (for the Agastache genus and mints) to more potent (for bee balm, oregano, cinnamon, cloves, and other spices).

Korean Licorice Mint (Agastache rugosa) & Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare)!

We have no idea why Korean licorice mint and its nearly identical and interchangeable cousin anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum) aren’t more popular and widely available in commerce. They’re so wonderfully delicious, beautiful, and easy to grow and harvest in abundance. Seek out seeds or seedlings from specialty herb growers, or find dried anise hyssop from herb farms. The Agastache species gently stimulate digestive function, ease bloat and spasms, and support the immune system while providing sweet anise-fennel-honey-minty flavor. Fennel seeds are more widely available and can also be used, acting more prominently on gas and spasms with similar flavor. If you don’t like licorice-y flavors, try mint, holy basil, cinnamon, ginger, or cardamom instead. Now, let’s put together a delicious gut-healing tea with these herbs and actions using plants you could easily grow in your garden!

Gut-Healing Tummy Tea!

This basic recipe helps with gut issues – it provides soothing mucilage, demulcent, and vulnerary gut-healing support. Perfect for ulcers, reflux, gastritis, heartburn, and leaky gut issues.

Ingredients:

2 parts dried marshmallow root, 1 part dried marshmallow leaf or flower, 1 part dried plantain leaf, 1 part dried fennel seed or Korean licorice mint leaf, sprinkle of dried rose petals, optional additions (per cup): pinch of licorice root, 1 to 2 cinnamon sticks, 1 to 2 cardamom pods, 1 star anise pod, 3 to 5 whole cloves.

Instructions:

Combine all of the herbs and store in an airtight container. To brew: In a 32-ounce container (such as a French press pot or tea-infuser travel mug), cover 2 or more heaping tablespoons with hot water. Let steep for several hours or overnight. Feel free to move to the fridge once it cools. Strain and drink over 1 to 2 days. You can steep it for a shorter period of time – 15 minutes or so – but the mucilaginous herbs and the spices will be more potent with a long steep. Enjoy.

0 notes

salvadorz38146-blog · 7 years

Text

Septic Tank Cleaner, Remedy & Deodorizer

BioCycle® aerobic wastewater treatment techniques are the fashionable, atmosphere-pleasant different to old style septic tanks. Use BIO-PROGRAMS STR (information sheet accessible at info@ ). at the very least annually. This can hold the system wholesome and forestall costly pump outs. The incoming flush of uncooked sewage displaces an equal quantity of semi-handled effluent from the primary to the secondary and in turn from the secondary out to the soakaway or leach field. The dividing wall retains sewage solids and scum while permitting the strong-free, partially-treated effluent migrating to the secondary tank for maturation. Taken that the average individual uses a total of between 120-180 litres of water per day, our household of five will use round 15,750 litres in the same 21-day interval. If this all goes to the Septic Tank Biotech tank, the entire hydraulic load is approximately 750 litres per day. Divide into the 6,000 litre tank capability and this equals eight days' residence time. Repeated 'pumping' - vital to prevent frequent overflows and the encompassing garden from being soaked in raw sewage - is pricey and never the reply. It results in a depletion within the essential microbial 'biomass' living in the liquid within the tank, leading to sterility and full failure of the complete system coupled with appalling odour from the fats which are nonetheless in the tank and soakaway. Effluent enters the soakaway trench from the septic tank (see above). The water stagnates allowing micro organism washed over from the septic tank to proceed the maturation course of in affiliation with those latent in the soakaway. Simultaneously, because the water seeps out by the geotextile, natural wastes suspended within the effluent turn out to be snared by the mucilaginous slimes that develop on the surfaces of the 'media' (the clean stone or brick ends or tyres). These wastes are progressively degraded as they circulation very slowly from the channel propelled by the incoming effluent and the pull of gravity in the direction of the encircling soil.

Pump outs - also known as 'vacuuming' to remove extra water (often caused by a malfunctioning soakaway). This is unhealthy practice as a result of it removes the aqueous surroundings of the helpful bacteria. The fat - the cause of the problem - stay. Achieved often the tank, devoid of micro organism, dies and the problem worsens. Only a few suction tankers are equipped with 'spate' pumps and high-strain jets that slurry up and remove fats. Rigs that do are very costly.

0 notes

dollymoll636-blog · 7 years

Text

BioBoost Tablets (12 Months)

Do you know that a well maintained septic tank system can provide years of dependable low-value service? Historically, many rural dwellers imagine that a useless cat or a sheep's head will 'begin' a septic tank. This is not a practical choice as a result of the bacteria inside the physique elements of useless animals aren't the identical as these present in sewage. Technically it might take a number of weeks for the micro organism to adapt to their new surroundings and grow to be a sewage-digesting biomass. A soakaway that works correctly is designed to cater for the hydraulic load it receives and is a proper (straightforward-to-build) structure. Primarily, it ought to be a long, slender trench build on a rammed earth ground. It must be lifeless level with partitions of dry-packed 'butterfly' bricks (or blocks on their sides) and with a layer of clean crushed aggregate sandwiched between two wraps of geo-textile - the outer one preventing the ingress of soil/ sand; the inner to stop small particles of media mixture falling into the central cavity. The entire trench must be covered with free, pre-forged paving slabs to stop accidental accidents and for ease of access. Effluent enters the soakaway trench from the Septic Tank Biotech tank (see above). The water stagnates allowing micro organism washed over from the septic tank to continue the maturation course of in association with these latent in the soakaway. Concurrently, as the water seeps out through the geotextile, natural wastes suspended within the effluent turn out to be snared by the mucilaginous slimes that develop on the surfaces of the 'media' (the clean stone or brick ends or tyres). These wastes are progressively degraded as they circulate very slowly from the channel propelled by the incoming effluent and the pull of gravity in the direction of the surrounding soil. Surveys point out that the typical five-particular person household will use 180-220 litres of water per person per day. That is a complete of 1,000 litres (and consists of bathing, showering, laundry, cooking, washing up, and so forth.). So that they would need a 21,000-litre septic tank. Nevertheless, the household would solely use a median of 60 litres per person per day for toilet flush. In order that's 300 litres per day, which equals 6,500 litres per thirty days. So a normal septic tank of 6,000 litre capability could be so as. The opposite 14,500 litres of waste 'gray' water should go straight, through a grease lure, to the soakaway, or, higher nonetheless, by way of a gray water remedy system so it can be re-used within the garden. BIOMUSI Septic Tank Is Septic Tank For Trapping Sludge And Scum As A Primary Treatment Earlier than Proceeding To The Secondary Therapy Course of. The Container Is Made From FRP Material Which Has Very Robust And Versatile Properties To Resists Any Contortion As Nicely As Good Chemical Resistance. Distinctive Physique Design That Present Support In Cautiously Calculated Path, Also Embody Floating Protection Stripe Round The Physique. Maintenance Easy To Maintenance With out Professional Assistance. Service Crew Can Be Requested For System Rectification As Quickly As Being Contacted. Includes Product Guarantee That Supplies You With Free Service Cost During Warranty Period.

0 notes

gardenassist · 3 years

Link

Introduction

In this article, we will illustrate the common problems which might you facing in your microgreens journey. In a previous article, we reviewed in detail the best methods to growing your own microgreens.

Do microgreens keep grow back after cutting?

Unfortunately, most microgreens do not grow back after harvest. This is because microgreens have only one set of leaves. After harvest, the plants can no longer absorb the sun’s rays and therefore die.

A few exceptions to this rule: microgreen shoots, such as peas, beans, and lentils, may regrow a few times. After harvesting, if the stems continue to be watered, sometimes a second plant will resprout.

However, when they do regrow, they lose some of their flavors. Therefore, it is not recommended to reuse the same plants if you are growing microgreens for commercial purposes.

Finally, the cost of the seeds is so low compared to what you can get from selling the seedlings that it is worth planting new microgreens every time.

Common problems and how to solve them

As we have seen, microgreens are an ideal crop for small indoor gardeners. They are fast, productive, and with only a few inches of well-lit space – they can be grown quickly on a warm, sunny windowsill or incorporated into a high-tech hydroponic system.

Their short shelf life makes them a good candidate for local markets and restaurants, as they are best used within two to three days of harvest.

However, it takes some skill to cultivate these seedlings at high densities and maintain quality after harvest, and some problems may arise during operations.

Clumpy microgreens

I already told you that an essential part of growing your microgreens is planting the seeds, which you must adequately space in the trays.

You need to leave the right amount of space between each seed. Unfortunately, it can be challenging to get an even distribution, and this can lead to problems.

If the roots are too close together, they can clump together. This problem is even more significant with mucilaginous seeds.

The problem occurs when the plants sprout because if you haven’t left enough space, one plant could uproot the other. Not only can this bring dirt, but it can also make harvesting difficult.

In addition, the plants that emerge from these clumped seeds are often very inconsistent in growth. When sowing slime seeds, you should take extra care to distribute the seeds evenly in the tray. In some cases, it is advisable to reduce the number of seeds per tray to avoid seed clumping.

Uneven growth

Sometimes microgreens may not grow evenly across the tray. For example, you may have well-grown plants on one side of the tray and much shorter ones on another side of the tray.

A lack of light usually causes this problem. Seedlings naturally grow better in the part of the tray where there is lighter, and worse where there is less light. This problem can occur especially if you are not using LED lights (which illuminate the entire tray evenly).

Limited sunlight can cause one area to grow better and taller than another. You will need to provide artificial light to the shorter side or rotate the trays regularly so that light falls on all the microgreens.

Mold

Several fungal pathogens can develop and grow in germinated seeds, especially in the moist, high-density conditions in which microgreens are grown, and this can pose a contamination risk.

Mold is one of the main problems you may face when growing your microgreens. Before you understand how to combat it, you need to be able to recognize it. First, you need to be able to distinguish mold from root hairs.

White, fuzzy hairs grow on the roots of microgreens, but they are not mold. Mold is a fungus that comes in a variety of forms. Mold on microgreens appears as a net-like material that is typically white or yellow.

Some types of molds are blue/gray with round particles. Mold feels slimy and has a characteristic odor. It can form on the microgreens, on the soil around the microgreens, and sometimes underground on the roots.

Mold kills or stops the growth of microgreens. However, it is a problem that you can solve. Generally, high quality, viable seeds, sown in a clean system at the right temperature for germination and optimum moisture germinate quickly with few problems.

If you find that the soil you grew the microgreens is contaminated with mold, you can transplant them into new soil, which almost always solves the problem.

To prevent mold even before it forms, you can disinfect the seeds. Some growers use this with hydrogen peroxide. This chemical removes all bacteria from the seeds and ensures that there are not many complications.

Generally, however, it is enough to give the plants proper hydration, lighting, and ventilation, and you will not have problems with mold or fungus.

Fungus

Microgreens, like all plants, can be susceptible to disease and can be attacked by fungi.

The biggest threat to microgreens seems to be Pythium and Phytophthora, two common fungal species that also attack other plant species.

The main difference between Pythium and Phytophthora are their symptoms. Root rot, slow growth, stunting and chlorotic foliage are symptoms of Pythium disease, while root and stem rot, discoloration and wilting are symptoms of Phytophthora disease.

These fungi affect plants, but at the root of the problem are the same things that cause mold: little space between seeds and no air circulation.

The best practices gardeners can use to prevent disease are to pay attention to temperature, humidity, growing medium selection and spacing.

Because the growth cycle is so short with microgreens, the seedlings themselves are not treated with pesticides. Disease outbreaks are more common when old seeds are used or temperatures are too hot or cold for rapid germination.

Some varieties of microgreens such as chard, Thai basil, mint and nasturtium are more susceptible to disease and insect problems.

Slow germination

When you’re growing microgreens, sometimes you think you’ve taken care of everything. Then suddenly, you find that your plant has stopped growing or is growing slowly.

Since microgreens are harvested very early, you should see germination within two to four days. Although some seeds may take a little longer, something is most likely wrong if you notice a noticeable increase in time.

To speed up the germination process, try increasing the humidity in the tray. If you notice that the soil is drying out, it means that you should spray the tray more often.

Be careful though, too much water can be a problem too! Also, pay attention to the seeds you use – old or low-quality seeds are a common cause of all kinds of growing problems.

If you use bad seeds, your plants may be slow to grow, stunted, or fail to germinate. For best results, choose only quality seeds that you buy from reputable suppliers.

Also, pay attention to lighting: your microgreens love and need plenty of light, but too much is not good. Direct and constant exposure to intense sunlight or high-intensity indoor lighting can stress your plants and lead to slow growth and other problems.

If you are growing indoors and think too much light is the cause of your problem, keep the plants further away from the light to reduce its intensity.

Bad quality water

As a small microgreens producer, you’ve probably compared the results of different soils or different temperatures or different types of lighting.

Still, you probably haven’t considered that the kind of water you use also has an impact. The water supply needs to be of high quality: Water can contain human and plant pathogens that contaminate a crop.

However, municipal water supplies are treated to avoid this risk. One could think of performing different types of water analysis (municipal tap water or bottled spring water or collected rainwater or well water) in a laboratory, but this would be not only impractical but also expensive.

It is best to judge the quality of the water by the results. And your results are the microgreens. Grow two lots of seeds in the same soil under identical light, darkness and heat, but not water.

For example, you get two collections: one with bottled water and the other with tap water. Do they look the same after two weeks? If not, the microgreens washed with tap water are slightly yellow, but the other batch is not, then chlorine is to blame.

The chlorine in tap water helps to eliminate bacteria but can hurt plants. If you find that your water contains too much chlorine, you can put it in containers and let it sit for a day without buying it. Chlorine is a volatile substance and evaporates quickly, making the water better for your plants.

If you are growing indoors and think too much light is the cause of your problem, keep the plants further away from the light to reduce its intensity.

Overwatering

One of the most common problems observed in microgreens production is seedling blight and disease outbreaks caused by too much water or high humidity, creating a saturated environment around the foliage.

Too much water or high humidity can cause mold to grow on microgreens. So first of all, you must avoid giving your plants too much water at all costs.

In any case, I recommend that you also use systems that facilitate water drainage and eliminate the problem of moisture in the soil.

First, as we have already seen, it is advisable to use trays with holes in the bottom through which the water not absorbed by the plants can drain.

Secondly, it is advisable to use a soil that facilitates drainage. For example, peat moss or coconut fiber helps to improve airflow in the soil.

Poor ventilation

We often take air for granted (perhaps because we can’t see it or touch it). Yet air is essential to our survival.

If there were none, we could not breathe and would die. The same is true for the plants we grow. Plants need air and even a little wind. This serves to help them grow more naturally and become strong.

Ventilation is a mechanical method of providing fresh air, and plants need fresh air no less than you do. Unfortunately, a windowless garage will not have adequate ventilation to ensure good plant growth.

For this reason, it is advisable (as I will show you later) to install small fans near the plants to provide good air movement and to avoid problems with root rot, fungal and bacterial pathogens.

The room where you grow microgreens will have a fresh scent, and the environment will be healthier both day and night.

Plants keep falling over

Microgreens can grow too tall and fall over, making harvesting extremely difficult. In addition, when microgreens grow too tall, they tend to become thin and flabby and therefore fall off easily. Therefore, you should prune this crop at the right time.

To avoid weak microgreens, you also need to pay attention to lighting and especially to the blackout period, which is the time you keep the microgreens covered and in the dark after sowing.

The blackout period for microgreens lasts as long as necessary for the seeds to germinate, root deeply, and grow to a point where they are ready to begin photosynthesis. The longer microgreens are kept in the dark, the thinner and lighter they become.

If you forget to take them out, there is a length limit in which they can grow. Therefore, you need to time the darkening period correctly.

There are many variables to consider, such as:

The microgreen variety.

soil and air temperatures

Moisture level.

Generally, you should check the seeds after 48 hours to see how well they have germinated and their growth stage. For some varieties like radishes, beets, mustard, broccoli, and kohlrabi, 48 hours is long enough. For other types like cilantro, celery, borage, and others, the cutoff time can be four to six days

0 notes