#horological society of new york

[odinsblog]

“First season of LEVERAGE - so he's 21 years old - he shows me his watch designs. I'm expecting, y' know, celebrity strap branding or faces. No, it's engineering schematics of GEARS and shit. Pages of them. Even then, there were none so cool.” - John Rogers

#aldis hodge #horology #horological design #watches #black history #hardison #watch makers #horological society of new york #leverage #leverage: redemption #black adam

[rockislandadultreads]

Nonfiction Thursday: Art History

Hands of Time by Rebecca Struthers

Timepieces have long accompanied us on our travels, from the depths of the oceans to the summit of Everest, the ice of the arctic to the sands of the deserts, outer space to the surface of the moon. The watch has sculpted the social and economic development of modern society; it is an object that, when disassembled, can give us new insights both into the motivations of inventors and craftsmen of the past, and, into the lives of the people who treasured them.

Hands of Time is a journey through watchmaking history, from the earliest attempts at time-keeping, to the breakthrough in engineering that gave us the first watch, to today – where the timepieces hold cultural and historical significance beyond what its first creators could have imagined. Acclaimed watchmaker Rebecca Struthers uses the most important watches throughout history to explore their attendant paradigm shifts in how we think about time, indeed how we think about our own humanity. From an up-close look at the birth of the fakes and forgeries industry which marked the watch as a valuable commodity, to the watches that helped us navigate trade expeditions, she reveals how these instruments have shaped how we build and then consequently make our way through the world.

A fusion of art and science, history and social commentary, this fascinating work, told in Struthers’s lively voice and illustrated with custom line drawings by her husband and fellow watchmaker Craig, is filled with her personal observations as an expert watchmaker—one of the few remaining at work in the world today. Horology is a vast subject—the “study of time.” This compelling history offers a fresh take, exploring not only these watches within their time, but the role they played in human development and the impact they had on the people who treasured them. 

Picasso's War by Hugh Eakin

In January 1939, Pablo Picasso was renowned in Europe but disdained by many in the United States. One year later, Americans across the country were clamoring to see his art. How did the controversial leader of the Paris avant-garde break through to the heart of American culture?

The answer begins a generation earlier, when a renegade Irish American lawyer named John Quinn set out to build the greatest collection of Picassos in existence. His dream of a museum to house them died with him, until it was rediscovered by Alfred H. Barr, Jr., a cultural visionary who, at the age of twenty-seven, became the director of New York’s new Museum of Modern Art.

Barr and Quinn’s shared goal would be thwarted in the years to come—by popular hostility, by the Depression, by Parisian intrigues, and by Picasso himself. It would take Hitler’s campaign against Jews and modern art, and Barr’s fraught alliance with Paul Rosenberg, Picasso’s persecuted dealer, to get Picasso’s most important paintings out of Europe. Mounted in the shadow of war, the groundbreaking exhibition Forty Years of His Art would launch Picasso in America, define MoMA as we know it, and shift the focus of the art world from Paris to New York.

Picasso’s War is the never-before-told story about how a single exhibition, a decade in the making, irrevocably changed American taste, and in doing so saved dozens of the twentieth century’s most enduring artworks from the Nazis. Through a deft combination of new scholarship and vivid storytelling, Hugh Eakin shows how two men and their obsession with Picasso changed the art world forever.

The Art Thief by Michael Finkel

For centuries, works of art have been stolen in countless ways from all over the world, but no one has been quite as successful at it as the master thief Stéphane Breitwieser. Carrying out more than two hundred heists over nearly ten years--in museums and cathedrals all over Europe--Breitwieser, along with his girlfriend who worked as his lookout, stole more than three hundred objects, until it all fell apart in spectacular fashion.

In The Art Thief, Michael Finkel brings us into Breitwieser's strange and fascinating world. Unlike most thieves, he never stole for money, keeping all his treasures in a single room where he could admire them to his heart's content. Possessed of a remarkable athleticism and an innate ability to assess practically any security system, Breitwieser managed to pull off a breathtaking number of audacious thefts. Yet these strange talents bred a growing disregard for risk and an addict's need to score, leading Breitwieser to ignore his girlfriend's pleas to stop--until one final act of hubris brought everything crashing down.

The Louvre by James Gardner

Some nine million people from all over the world flock to the Louvre each year to enjoy its incomparable art collection. Yet few of them are aware of the remarkable history of that place and of the buildings themselves—a fascinating story that historian James Gardner elegantly chronicles in the first full-length history of the Louvre in English.

More than 7,000 years ago, men and women camped on a spot called Le Louvre for reasons unknown; a clay quarry and a vineyard supported a society there in the first centuries AD. A thousand years later, King Philippe Auguste of France constructed a fortress there in 1191, just outside the walls of a city far smaller than the Paris we know today. Intended to protect the capital against English soldiers stationed in Normandy, the fortress became a royal residence under Charles V two centuries later, and then the monarchy’s principal residence under the great Renaissance king François I in 1546.

It remained so until 1682 when Louis XIV moved his entire court to Versailles. Thereafter the fortunes of the Louvre languished until the tumultuous days of the French Revolution when, during the Reign of Terror in 1793, it first opened its doors to display the nation’s treasures. Ever since—through the Napoleonic era, the Commune, two World Wars, to the present—the Louvre has been a witness to French history, and expanded to become home to a legendary collection, including such masterpieces as the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo, whose often-complicated and mysterious origins form a spectacular narrative that rivals the building’s grand stature.

#art history #art #nonfiction #nonfiction reads #nonfiction books #library books #reading recommendations #reading recs #book recommendations #book recs #tbr #tbr pile #to read #booklr #book tumblr #book blog #library blog

[paradesign]

Note to Self : Come back when the print catalog is available.

[jadewalker]

[emotioffs]

Serendipity, Timing and the Birth of a Horology Library

The Horological Society of New York was shown a library space for rent. Then a collector offered his books. The result? A timekeeping treasure trove. from NYT > Fashion https://ift.tt/8vxwXRo

[watchilove]

The Horological Society Of New York announces Timepieces For Hsny: 2022 Charity Auction presented by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo

The Horological Society Of New York announces Timepieces For Hsny: 2022 Charity Auction presented by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo

The Horological Society of New York (HSNY) announces today Timepieces for HSNY: 2022 Charity Auction, presented online by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo from July 6-13, 2022. (more…)

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#auction #auction house #news #Phillips #Phillips Auction #PHILLIPS IN ASSOCIATION WITH BACS & RUSSO #Press release

[diazbates8]

Purchase Replica Watches, Best Watches Replica Sizzling Sale On-line

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#michael kors watches replica #replica watches ebay #best replica watches #luxury replica watches #replica watches

[androgynouspaperyouth]

Watchmaking Is Overwhelmingly White. A New Scholarship Aims to Change That.

[evilroachindustrial]

As if I needed another reason to love him even more, tonight I learned Aldis Hodge is an accomplished watchmaker and has been appointed a trustee of the Horological Society of New York, America’s oldest horological guild.

#Aldis Hodge #he can act /AND/ he's good with his hands #Just like is it possible for this man to get even /more/ attractive?

[dcvw]

HSNY: Upcoming Lecture - A Tapestry of Time

Join HSNY on Monday, December 7, 2020 for a virtual lecture on A Tapestry of Time, presented by William J. H. Andrewes, Sundial Architect & Horological Consultant, Concord, Massachusetts.

With the phenomenal advances in technology that have transformed the wristwatch over the last few decades, it is easy to overlook the seminal contributions made 250 years ago by the pioneers of precision timekeeping. Chief among these was John Harrison, who, against all odds, made the first timekeeper that solved the problem of finding longitude at sea and thereby ushered in the age of high precision, portable timekeeping. At the December 2020 lecture of the Horological Society of New York, William Andrewes will discuss Harrison’s history...

[alessandriana]

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/aldis-hodge-appointed-trustee-of-the-horological-society-of-new-york

#aldis hodge

[johnleedraws]

Twitter is a viper’s nest. I’m just going to slide back on here like nothing happened. Here’s a bunch of notes I’ve taken at the New York Horological Society, and other wristwatch-related events. I got sucked down the rabbit hole maybe a year ago as our politics deteriorated, my depression really kicked off, and I subsequently became obsessed with time and timekeeping.  Featuring: Jack Forster of Hodinkee, Dr. Rebecca Struthers, William Massena, Nakajima Satomi of Grand Seiko, Kathleen McGivney of Redbar, and Roger Smith.

#illustration #drawing #notetaking #sketchbook #notes #graphic recording #watches #wristwatch #hodinkee #seiko #grandseiko #nyc #new york #johnleedraws #john lee

[refinednoir-blog]

[lulu5109]

#aldis hodge #interesting #watchmaking

[dippedanddripped]

Followers of rappers, musicians, artists and even athletes are paying a lot of attention to what the celebs are wearing on their wrists. Often it is an iced-out, three-dimensional sculpted watch that can’t help but have people talking. Sometimes the watch is part of a brand’s collection, other times it is a spectacular custom-made piece. In fact, the idea of customizing a watch is more prevalent in the world of luxury today than one would think. But if you’re looking to do some after-market watch customization, be prepared to be berated.

Buy a car and add a pinstripe or a scoop and people will ooh and ahh over it, but buy a watch and add diamonds or make other changes, and you may as well have stepped into hell, according to fine watch collectors. After-market customization is blasphemy — or so the purists would say. In fact, it is an age-old problem that has two diametrically opposed schools of thought and evokes some pretty emotional responses among watch devotees.

To die-hard fanatical watch collectors, touching a timepiece after market is like taking a piece of legendary art from a museum and adding graffiti to it. For those who collect true haute horology brands such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, A. Lange & Söhne, and others, after-market customization is sacrilege. These collectors are happy to lock their watches — most retailing for $20,000 to $120,000 and up — in the safe and wear them only on special occasions. They put their luxury timepieces on pedestals, and the idea of marring the watch is horrifying. Not only have you destroyed art, but also you have ruined its lasting inherent value (not to mention voiding a warranty).

Keep in mind, we’re not talking about the age-old tradition of hand-painting a special-order dial; we are talking about seriously altering the entire watch case, dial, and sometimes the bracelet. Because just a handful of brands will customize a watch in today’s day and age — it takes away from their serial production work — celebrities, royalty, and other people in high society around the world are forced to turn to after-market customizers in order to get exactly what they want: a unique timepiece.

Sometimes that uniqueness comes in the form of adding mega diamonds or gemstones, elaborate engravings, or colorful PVD coatings. No matter the vehicle used to achieve the end result — a truly personal watch — to the person who dreams of individuality, the finished timepiece is a more valuable work of art and emotion than the original. Today, buyers can get almost anything they want. There are companies that will take apart an entire watch movement and refinish components, replace hands, bezels, and dials, and return a totally foreign-looking but individualized piece to the owner. There are other companies that will resurface cases and bezels, changing the colors or finishes. Then there are those who add diamonds, gemstones, or even ornate engravings.

Carving Time

Somehow the thought of digging an engraving tool into a $10,000 or $20,000 watch and etching away the case metal almost, at first thought, seems like defacing property. But done right, these watches often become incredible works of art. In fact, the after-market engraving work done by New York City-based Fin Des Temps is top quality, highly intriguing, and incredibly in demand.

While Christopher Ser, CEO and master engraver, started his company just five years ago, he has 15 years of experience in the jewelry engraving field. He spent years training other engravers — some hand-picked from the gun-engraving industry — before allowing them to touch a single timepiece.

“Cutting watches is serious — it’s intense and time-consuming. To cut a single watch can take between 50 and 300 hours,” says Ser. “At first, I [was] met with a lot of negativity about my cutting into a watch. But people are coming around. Today when I post a finished watch on my Instagram account, negative comments are just about 20 percent of the responses. Most love what I do. I even have a waiting list.”

It’s not hard to see why Fin Des Temps can’t supply the demand. A close-up look at Ser’s work reveals some pretty emotion-evoking responses. You can tell he has spent a good deal of time with the client, getting to know about their life and how they want to personalize their timepiece. Of course, that customization doesn’t come cheap. On average, Fin Des Temps charges between $15,000 and $30,000 for a fully engraved (dial, case, bracelet) watch.

While Ser says that he views watches as art before he touches them, he also sees them as a wide open canvas. Still, even he says there are watches he wouldn’t touch. “If there are very limited edition pieces, a small number of a certain watch on the planet, then they’re very special and I don’t want to change it. But when I can see five guys on a single subway car wearing a Rolex, what’s blasphemous about carving something [of which] there are thousands of on the market?”

And while others argue that a customized watch loses value, Ser says he has seen his customized pieces sell after engraving. “People get more than what they paid me for because we have turned it into a truly unique piece of art,” says Ser. The fact that Fin Des Temps has a waiting list underscores the idea that art is truly in the eye of the beholder — though this may be a bitter pill for watch purists to swallow.

Authorized After-Market Work

The desire some customers have to change up the looks of their watch is a reality that certain savvy brands are recognizing as well. While they can’t stop their production to answer individual calls for personalization (especially the brands that produce watches in big numbers), they may have found a solution. Some, including the LVMH brands of Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith, have turned to a respected British watch customization company, Bamford Watch Department, to create authorized after-market watches.

According to George Bamford, founder of Bamford Watch Department, the brand offers more than a trillion different combinations for the ultimate customization platform. When he started his company about 15 years ago, he said his mantra was to offer a unique experience and a truly personalized watch. For years, he customized watches using unusual color combinations, finishes, and more. But about five years ago, he was approached by the watch industry’s legendary Jean-Claude Biver (who has led many watch brands to success, including Hublot and Blancpain) and asked to consider partnering with brands for after-market customization.

“Biver told me that it was time to come out of the shade and be part of the solution for brands who can’t do the custom work themselves,” says Bamford. “So now, we are authorized by the brands we partner with.” In fact, the Bamford Watch Department just became the authorized customization firm for Girard-Perregaux’s distinctive Cat’s Eye collection — making the collaboration the first for after-market changes to a ladies’ line.

“Everyone wants individuality and wants to feel special,” says Bamford, who noted that he has already gotten specific orders from women for the Cat’s Eye, including one woman who special-ordered a dial for the approximately $15,000 watch in the exact shade of a 1960 lipstick she loved, driving up the price by at least another few thousand dollars. The point is — those who want what they want, go for it.

With more and more discerning customers wanting uniqueness, we are actually witnessing customization and personalization coming from some independent and boutique watch brands that want to embrace this trend, too. Some, like Jacob & Co., are truly customizing at special request, while others, such as Armin Strom, are leading the way when it comes to offering online configurators. The concept here is that it is better for individuals to work directly with the brands for what they want. The caveat: brands may not want to go as wild and out-there in personalization as the after-market specialists will. (But that’s food for another article.

#patek philippe #After-Market Customized Watches #accessories #wristwear #relojes #bamford watches