#paletot

[chic-a-gigot]

La Mode illustrée, no. 3, 17 janvier 1897, Paris. Robe anglaise ornée de galons. Robe avec corsage écossais. Robe avec paletot ajusté. Robe en drap garnie de galons. Robe en velours avec jaquette d'astrakan. Col en fourrure. Collet orné de fourrure et broderie. Paletot-sac avec revers d'hermine. Chapeau de théâtre. Modèles de chez Mmes Coussinet-Piret, rue Richer, 43. Modèles de chez Mme Colombin, rue de La Tour-d'Auvergne, 41. Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney

#La Mode illustrée #19th century #1890s #1897 #periodical #fashion #fashion plate #Forney #dress #plaid #paletot #coat #jacket #collar #cape #gigot #stripes #Modèles de chez #Madames Coussinet-Piret #Madame Colombin

[cressida-jayoungr]

One Dress a Day Challenge

September: Bond Films

Live and Let Die / Roger Moore as James Bond

This navy blue double-breasted Chesterfield (or paletot) coat made by Cyril Castle represents the first fashion statement of the Roger Moore era. It's been called the most iconic coat of the whole film series. Possibly the coat and the conservative suit underneath were meant to make Bond seem a bit "un-hip" and stuffy-looking; but ironically, their restrained style has aged much better than the trendier clothes of other characters.

The coat is slightly shorter than a typical Chesterfield, making Moore's legs look longer. Some notable features include the peaked lapels, velvet collar, and turned-back "gauntlet" cuffs with a single button. (Photos of the actual coat come from this article found through the Wayback Machine.)

Other notable features of the outfit are the black gloves and the Royal Navy regimental tie. Moore leaned into dressing like a former naval officer more than any other Bond actor.

#live and let die #bond film costumes #roger moore #one dress a day challenge #one dress a week challenge #movie costumes #1973 movies #1973 films #1970s fashion #1970s style #classic menswear #james bond #james bond films #bond james bond #007 #cyril castle #paletot #outerwear #chesterfield coat #chesterfield #70s fashion #70s style #live & let die #roger moore era

[gogmstuff]

Princess Mathilde in the 1850s (from top to bottom) -

1854 Salle a manger de la princesse Mathilde by Charles Giraud (Château de Compiègne, Musée du Second Empire - Compiègne, Oise, Hauts-de-France, France) photo - Andreas Praefcke. From Wikimedia 2008X1413 @72 1.6Mj.

1856 Etude pour le "Baptême du Prince impérial" - la princesse Mathilde by Thomas Couture (Château de Compiègne - Compiègne, Oise, Hauts-de-France, France). From compiegne-peintures.fr/notice/notice.php?id=368 2642X3434 @150 2Mj

Princesse Mathilde by Thomas Couture (Chateau Compiegne - Compiegne France) From the lost gallery's photostream on flickr 1000X1210 @300 622kj.

CDV de la princesse Mathilde Bonaparte par Disdéri. From ebay.fr; erased spots w Pshop 898X1417@72 400kj.

1855 S. A. I. Mme. la Princesse Mathilde in toilette de bal by Paul Gavarni. From digitalcommonwealth.org-search-commonwealth-0r96hf529; erased worst foxing w Pshop 3467X5024 @150 5.5Mj.

1865 Princesse Mathilde by Pierre François Eugène Giraud (Musée national du château de Compiègne - Compiègne, Picardie, France). From liveinternet.ru-users-4000579-post370046381 1124X1404 @150 995kp.

Mathilda wearing spectacular jewels print From liveinternet.ru/users/4000579/post370046381.

1857 (pub on 1 October in Le Petit Messager) Princess Mathilde in group by Heloise Leloir (V&A). From artsandculture.google.com 3515X2486 @144 2.5Mj.

Princess Mathilde wearing a bonnet Posted to Foro Dinastias by danjel on 25 September 2008; removed spots w Pshop 696X1015 @96 183kj.

#early Victorian fashion #Romantic era fashion #1850s fashion #Mathilde Bonaparte #Princess Mathilde #Mathilde Demidoff #paletot #lace mantle #flounced skirt #crinoline

[dixvinsblog]

Patricia Ligouis Fort - J’ai accroché un oiseau à ma fenêtre

J’ai accroché un oiseau à ma fenêtreIl chante dans ma têteTu l’entendras peut-êtreLes jours de tempêtePousser sa chansonnette J’ai accroché un oiseau au revers de ton paletotIl chante en fa, en doPour que tu te souviennes des motsQue l’amour égraineDans mon cœur de p’tit moineau Photo de Levent Simsek

View On WordPress

#Patricia Ligouis Fort - J’ai accroché un oiseau à ma fenêtre -fenêtre-paletot -moineau

[is-the-19thcentury-man-okay]

At left, the type of 1840s man that many people want, looking dashing in his evening costume and with the fashionable barrel chest and defined waist of his breed.

At right, a more typical example of the 1840s man that you will find at discount prices: note the striped trousers, huge paletot coat, and cigar.

This is the difference that proper vetting of your 19th century man can make! Of course, many people are happy with the Gent on the right and will gladly indulge his fashion habits and smoking.

#is the 19th century man okay #mid 19th century #1840s #archibald henning #punch magazine #victorian #early victorian era #fashion #class #gents

[homomenhommes]

le bleu d'ici, on se le remet sur le paletot et au boulot

[syrupsyche]

In honour of our favourite group of men finally entering the story, I'll fish out 1-2 quotes I love about each man from this chapter.

Enjolras

"Enjolras was a charming young man, who was capable of being terrible [...] One would have said, to see the pensive thoughtfulness of his glance, that he had already, in some previous state of existence, traversed the revolutionary apocalypse."

Best introductory line to any character in literature by far, if I say so myself. I also like the reincarnation implication in the second half, framing Enjolras not as a person but rather the recurring phenomenon of revolution.

Combeferre

"He read everything, went to the theatres, attended the courses of public lecturers, learned the polarization of light from Arago, grew enthusiastic over a lesson [...] He declared that the future lies in the hand of the schoolmaster, and busied himself with educational questions."

I adore the fact that he strives to educate himself on everything, and that he loves the process of learning as well. And I agree wholeheartedly that the future is in education! My dream man.

Jean Prouvaire

"His name was Jehan, owing to that petty momentary freak which mingled with the powerful and profound movement whence sprang the very essential study of the Middle Ages [...] He spoke softly, bowed his head, lowered his eyes, smiled with embarrassment, dressed badly, had an awkward air, blushed at a mere nothing, and was very timid. Yet he was intrepid."

I love his little Middle Ages hyperfixation, go Jehan! And of course, we get a slight foreshadow of his fate at the end of his description, where he is said to be brave, despite everything.

Feuilly

"[Feuilly] had but one thought, to deliver the world. He had one other preoccupation, to educate himself; [...] The protest of right against the deed persists forever. The theft of a nation cannot be allowed by prescription. These lofty deeds of rascality have no future. A nation cannot have its mark extracted like a pocket handkerchief."

Feuilly's description is really similar to Enjolras' (minus the waxing about his looks), and I find it interesting Hugo adds the last part under Feuilly rather than anyone else's. Someone smarter than me can probably give a better analysis as to why.

Courfeyrac

"Beneath the apparent similarities of the exterior mind, the difference between him [...] There was in Tholomyès a district attorney, and in Courfeyrac a paladin. [...] Enjolras was the chief, Combeferre was the guide, Courfeyrac was the centre. The others gave more light, he shed more warmth"

Hugo loves his parallelism and so do I. Courfeyrac as a nice Tholomyès is a good way to efficiently describe him, and the last part of his description is so iconic to our triumvirate characterisation that I had to put it in.

Bahorel

"Every time that he passed the law-school, which rarely happened, he buttoned up his frock-coat,—the paletot had not yet been invented,—and took hygienic precautions. [...] In reality, he had a penetrating mind and was more of a thinker than appeared to view."

Bahorel is so funny; I too want to live my life as a student for 11 years without the need for graduating. I like that Hugo points out his intelligence too, its easy to reduce him to just a comic character, but theres a reason he's in this group, guys!

Bossuet

Bossuet was a gay but unlucky fellow. His specialty was not to succeed in anything. As an offset, he laughed at everything. At five and twenty he was bald. [...] He was poor, but his fund of good humor was inexhaustible. He soon reached his last sou, never his last burst of laughter.

This is such a fun and vivid character description, Hugo really manages to bring Bossuet to life. I love a man who can laugh at himself and while it's sad to see him be used to his unfortunate circumstances, I admire his humour about it all.

Joly

"What he had won in medicine was to be more of an invalid than a doctor. At three and twenty he thought himself a valetudinarian, and passed his life in inspecting his tongue in the mirror. He affirmed that man becomes magnetic like a needle [...] Otherwise, he was the gayest of them all. All these young, maniacal, puny, merry incoherences lived in harmony together, and the result was an eccentric and agreeable being"

He and Bossuet have the most fun descriptions ever, I'm jealous. The magnetism part is hilarious and I love that Hugo makes a point in saying that despite it all, he is still a happy-go-lucky man, similar to the unlucky, but jovial Bossuet.

Grantaire

"Grantaire was a man who took good care not to believe in anything. Moreover, he was one of the students who had learned the most during their course at Paris; he knew that the best coffee was to be had at the Café Lemblin, and the best billiards at the Café Voltaire [...] However, this sceptic had one fanaticism [...] it was a man: Enjolras. [...] No one loves the light like the blind man. The dwarf adores the drum-major. The toad always has his eyes fixed on heaven. Why? In order to watch the bird in its flight. Grantaire, in whom writhed doubt, loved to watch faith soar in Enjolras. [...] their name is a sequel, and is only written preceded by the conjunction and; and their existence is not their own; it is the other side of an existence which is not theirs. Grantaire was one of these men. He was the obverse of Enjolras."

This is embarrassingly long. But look, I LOVE how contradictory Grantaire's character is, even in his own, third-person omniscient description. He doesn't care about anything, but he knows and loves Paris so intimately that he learned of it the most. He doesn't believe in anything, but he believes wholeheartedly in one man. And like Jehan, his fate is foreshadowed at the end. He only exists if Enjolras exists. Without the latter, there is no former, and vice versa.

#les mis #les mis letters #les mis daily #les amis #les amis de l'abc #syrup ramble #syrup talks about lit

[chicinsilk]

Ligne "Libre"

Christian Dior Haute Couture Collection Spring/Summer 1957. Jacky Mazel wears the three-quarter pea coat. Draped neckline held by a knot and showing the receding movement of the shoulders, high patch pockets and slit pockets.

Christian Dior Collection Haute Couture Printemps/Été 1957. Jacky Mazel porte le paletot caban trois quart. Encolure drapé retenue par un nœud et accusant le mouvement fuyant des épaules, poches appliquées hautes et poches fendues.

Photo Frères Séeberger. (Femme Chic 1er trimestre 1957)

#haute couture #christian dior #ligne libre #fashion 50s #1957 #spring/summer #printemps/été #jacky mazel #frères séeberger #femme chic magazine

[realhistoricalpatterns]

Patrons Favoris (c.1905) Paletot

#1900s #coat #edwardian #french

[clove-pinks]

An illustration by Paul Gavarni to accompany Albert Smith's essay "The Casino" in Gavarni in London (1849).

[Albert] Smith titled the essay that accompanied Gavarni’s image simply “The Casino,” but his text refers to Laurent’s Casino, and the periodical press of the period shows that Laurent’s was a specific, popular venue situated just off the Strand to the east of Trafalgar Square in central London. [...]

It is a gent that Gavarni depicts enjoying a sherry-cobbler at Laurent’s Casino. In his accompanying essay, Smith records that gents were the “overwhelming class” frequenting the casino; elsewhere he observed that “Gentism” was at “a rampant pitch” there. The man’s slightly long, curled hair, his ring, the large buttons on his double-breasted sac coat, and his short cane and cigar are the gent’s signature accessories in the late 1840s, and would have been immediately recognizable. Descriptions of this urban type had been widely disseminated in the literary and visual culture of the day.

— Jo Briggs, “Gavarni at the Casino: Reflections of Class and Gender in the Visual Culture of 1848″ July 2011, Victorian Studies 53(4):639-64. (Google Drive link)

Compare Gavarni's handsome and elegant Gent to a more typical specimen in a John Leech cartoon from 1847:

Or an illustration in Albert Smith's The Natural History of the Gent (1847):

The wide paletot coat, the very narrow hat brim, the cigar, and the comically large tie pins connected by a chain are all signatures of a "Gent."

Writing about class and visual culture in 1840s Britain, Jo Briggs observes:

Despite the mocking attitude of Smith and others who depicted the gent in textual or visual form, their humor defused the tensions surrounding this upstart figure. [...] The widespread discussion of the gent must therefore be understood as part of a broader preoccupation with the classification of novel and parvenu urban types in visual and literary culture at this time. But this preoccupation stemmed from the fact that, by reproducing the styles and mannerisms of the middle and upper classes, the gent drew attention to the performative aspects of class.

Gents formed a specific subsection of the urban lower-middle classes: young men, without dependents, in skilled jobs that paid well enough to leave a little spare cash for small luxuries, cheap ready-made clothes, and low-brow entertainments. Their jobs were not physically demanding and they worked shorter hours than many. In the evenings they were free to act out a fantasy of a life of leisure, showing off their loud clothes while trying to appear indifferent and aloof.

Nice Joinville necktie.

#Eighteen-Forties Friday #1840s #fashion history #visual culture #paul gavarni #albert smith #john leech #early victorian era #fashion #men's fashion #gents #jo briggs #class #historical men's fashion #victorian #neckwear #gavarni in london

[chic-a-gigot]

La Mode illustrée, no. 38, 21 septembre 1890, Paris. Pardessus d'hiver. Modèles de chez Mme Coussinet, rue Richer, 43. Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney

Plate is used again in Harper’s Bazar Vol. XXIII, Number 42, New York, Saturday, October 18, 1890.

Descriptions from La Mode illustrée and Harper’s Bazar:

Robe pour petite fille de 5 à 7 ans.

Fig. 1. — Frock for girl from 5 to 7 years old.

—

Manteau en drap et velours (dos).

Fig. 2. — Long cloak with velvet sleeves. — Back. — (See Fig. 11.)

—

Manteau pour petite fille ce 2 à 4 ans.

Fig. 3. — Coat for girl from 2 to 4 years old.

—

Mantelet en velours du Nord.

Fig. 4. Velvet Mantle — Front.

—

Paletot eu velours brodé (façon Louis XIII) (devant).

Fig. 5. Louis XIII Jacket. — Front.

—

Manteau en drap garni de fourrure (devant).

Fig 6. Fur-trimmed cloak. — Front. See Fig. 8.

—

Paletot en drap.

Fig 7. Repped silk jacket with feather trimming. — Back. — See Fig. 10.

—

Paletot en drap et velours du Nord.

Fig 8. — Fur-trimmed cloak. — Back. See Fig. 6.

—

Paletot en drap (devant).

Fig. 9. — Braided jacket.

—

Paletot en drap (devant).

Fig. 10. — Repped silk jacket with feather trimming. — Front. — (See Fig. 7.)

—

Manteau en drap et velours (devant).

Fig. 11. Long cloak with velvet sleeves. — Front. — (See Fig. 2.)

—

Manteau pour petite fille de 7 à 9 ans (devant).

Fig. 12. — Coat for girl from 7 to 9 years old. — Front.

#La Mode illustrée #Harper’s Bazar #19th century #1890s #1890 #periodical #fashion #fashion plate #Forney #dress #coat #reprint #velvet #Louis XIII #cloak #mantle #paletot #Modèles de chez #Madame Coussinet

[eiffel21]

Papillon

Une écharpe papillon, deux paletots sauterelle et un slip moustique

Petit butin du chineur de fripes du mercredi

Daltonien et amoureux des mots entomologiques

Qui transforme chaque pièce en morceaux de poésie

#30jourspourécrire #eiffel21 #jour6 #javouej'aicherchéentomologie

[gogmstuff]

1860 (8 October) Royals at Coburg by Schärff (Royal Collection - RCIN 2900379). From their Web site; erased spots w Pshop 1834X2000 @72 437kj

#early Victorian fashion #crinoline era fashion #1860 fashion #Schärff #Princess Alice #Princess Royal Victoria #Queen Victoria #Princess Alexandrine of Baden #hat #paletot #flounces #crinoline #hood #umbrella #foul weather dress

[sulfurousmirrorscapes]

...always ready to smash a windowpane, then to tear up the pavement, then to demolish a government, just to see the effect of it...

Every time that he passed the law-school, which rarely happened, he buttoned up his frock-coat⁠—the paletot had not yet been invented⁠—and took hygienic precautions.

#les miserables #les mis letters #lm 3.4.1 #spider punk #hobie brown

[claudiobaglionicantastorie]

Guarda "CLAUDIO BAGLIONI - POSTER" su YouTube.

Seduto con le mani in mano

Sopra una panchina fredda del metrò

Sei lì che aspetti quello delle 7:30

Chiuso dentro il tuo paletot

Un tizio legge attento le istruzioni

Sul distributore del caffè

E un bambino che si tuffa dentro a un bignè

E l'orologio contro il muro

Segna l'una e dieci da due anni in qua

Il nome di questa stazione

È mezzo cancellato dall'umidità

Un poster che qualcuno ha già scarabocchiato

Dice "vieni in Tunisia"

C'è un mare di velluto ed una palma

E tu che sogni di fuggire via

E andare lontano lontano

Andare lontano lontano

E da una radiolina accesa

Arrivano le note di un'orchestra jazz

Un vecchio con gli occhiali spessi un dito

Cerca la risoluzione a un quiz

Due donne stan parlando

Con le braccia piene di sacchetti dell'Upim

Ed un giornale è aperto

Sulla pagina dei films

E sui binari quanta vita che è passata

E quanta che ne passerà

E due ragazzi stretti stretti

Che si fan promesse per l'eternità

Un uomo si lamenta ad alta voce

Del governo e della polizia

E tu che intanto sogni ancora

Sogni sempre sogni di fuggire via

E andare lontano lontano

Andare lontano lontano

Sei lì che aspetti quello delle 7:30

Chiuso dentro il tuo paletot

Seduto sopra una panchina fredda del metrò.

#Youtube

[homomenhommes]

Le bleu d'ici, on se le remet sur le paletot et au boulot...