1600 miles (Gaelen)
I reached Sawyers Bar Road at mile 1599.7 on August 14th and caught a ride into the town of Etna. Unfortunately my feet were in pretty bad shape when I reached town and were feeling so achy and tender that I stayed in town to recover and had a hard time walking for a few days.
A lot has happened in the last 300 miles. When I hit the halfway point I was admittedly starting to feel pretty crumby, and was worried I might be hitting my physical limits. It was getting harder and harder to get moving each morning and harder and harder to get back up after stopping for a break.
Despite running into some friends I hadn't seen in several hundred miles (Oilspill & Footloose near Chester and Buddy & Silver near Drakesbad Guest Ranch) I was starting to feel a bit down about the trip until I had the sudden realization one day that in my efforts to make good mileage and short efficient resupplies I had lost track of getting enough protein each day. At the very next opportunity I made sure I had a good solid 80 grams of protein for each day in my food supply and within a couple days was starting to feel like my old self again.
Hiking through the Shasta Trinity Wilderness area was amazing. Mt Shasta is an impressive sight (one to rival Mt Rainier) and the mountain is visible for a significant portion of the trail.
The night before crossing I-5 I was hit by a thunderstorm during the night. A gust of wind knocked a dead branch loose which fell on my tent. Luckily the rain had softened the ground and a tent stake came out and the tent collapsed rather than tearing. The rain had just hit a lull, so it was quick work to get out of the tent and re-stake it. Once the tent was back up the night passed uneventfully (other than the thunder, lightning, and rain).
Everything seemed to be going well after I left Mt Shasta city at I5. It was 4 days from there to Sawyers Bar Road. I have gotten used to having a little bit of swelling in my feet in the morning, which quickly goes away once I'm up and moving about. However for the two days before I got to Etna the swelling took longer and longer to go down, and I started feeling so twinges and pain in my feet. My feet were still a bit swollen and tender when I got into Etna, but the next morning the swelling was extreme and did not go away all day.
I rested on town for several days and got to see a lot of friends as they passed through Etna, including Wildcard (previously Coolaid), Hot Take, and Big Money. After my feet started feeling better I hit the trail again. However the pain came back pretty quickly and I only made it 11 miles that day. The other thing I wasn't expecting was that my left hip was incredibly sore and wasn't moving right.
The next morning my feet were very swollen again. I spent almost 6 hours in camp that morning evaluating things. I realized my hip wasn't moving right and was causing alignment changes in my knees, ankles, and feet, and that the swelling in the feet was a symptom of my hip. After a lot of thought and deliberation I came to the unfortunate conclusion that I needed to get off the trail at least long enough to properly focus on my hip.
So the next morning I hiked back to Etna.
I am now off trail after 1610 miles, focusing on healing. I am currently hopeful that with a couple weeks of focused work I will be able to head back to the trail.
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My Other Nearly ‘Bests’
By Howard Shapiro
It is challenging, really challenging to consider and pick one’s favorite, the best of the best, places, experiences, and people encountered on a 2,650 mile hike. I attempted to identify my ten ‘best’ in previous posts. Following are some of the others that didn’t make my cut in no particular prioritized order. The fact remains that even these ‘also rans’ are significant.
Mount Adams through the Goat Rocks Wilderness- This is one of those stretches I want to re-visit. At the time I experienced it I had never encountered the kinds of challenges found in this snowy high place that led to the exposed reaches of Goat Rocks.Being up close and personal with Mount Adams was breathtaking. The long distance snow travel that we did around the flanks of Adams were tough but confidence building. This stretch displayed the path ahead with views of Mount St. Helens and Mount Rainier. This stretch was super charging for the days ahead.
Glacier Peak Wilderness- This was so stunning in so many ways. As we hiked in to the valley where Kodak Peak welcomed us and the many deer stood as sentinels watching our every move we were simply blown away by the setting. The late afternoon light made the greens nearly neon, the rocky outcrops stood out in sharp contrast. That night we were visited by numerous deer wandering out of the fog that had settled in to get a lick or two off of our salty gear.
Stream crossing below Mount Daniel- This was the ultimate test of our stamina, friendship, and trail knowledge. We arrived at this creek late in the day. The water was flowing fast and creek appeared full from the snow melt from above. We elected to wait and cross early the next morning when the volume of water may have shrunk a little in the night chill. We cowboy camped on the trail next to the constant sound of the water we were destined to cross at first light. With the confident leadership of our partner Jim Peacock, Rees and I summoned the trust and courage to literally take the leap.
Timberline to Lost Lake- Hiking with my wife and daughter was a dream I had long held. My dream come true was enhanced in that we were joined by our dear friends Rees Hughes, his wife Amy Uyeki, and their daughter (and one of my daughter’s best friends) Chisa. This trip was documented in the published ‘Pacific Crest Trailside Reader’ in the Oregon/Washington volume under the title ‘Hiking in 5-7-5′. Hiking together around the flanks of Mount Hood was magic. Here we were with our nearest and dearest sharing some of the experience of backpacking along the PCT that they had heard about so often. Amy had accompanied Rees and I on a much earlier trip in the Pasayten but many years had passed since then. Now here we were together laughing and loving every minute. What was among the most striking memories of this trip was everyone’s perspectives of where we were and what we were doing. Our six shared perspectives made this time especially memorable and one I would never exchange.
Lassen National Park-Drakesbad- Rees has already featured this particular memory in his ‘best’ posts. All I can say is this moment at Drakesbad set the bar for ‘trail magic’ and whatever karma/magic was at work during this hike it continued for another day or so.After an amazing meal and conversatoin with some nearby diners we proceeded to continue on to our eventual goal of Belden. That was not to be.
On this hike we had Rees’s cousin and the son of one of our dear friends joining us. Unfortunately they were both experiencing foot problems. In the end we decided the best way to preserve the otherwise good experience we were enjoying. The determination was made to exit at Highway 36 near Chester.We had left a car near Belden so now we faced getting at least one of the four of us there to retrieve the car. At Highway 36 we found a little trail magic stash and a business card with the name of a trail angel. In the end she and her husband not only ‘rescued’ us but willingly drove us to Belden. Our great fortune in light of some physical setbacks was not lost on any of us. This was trail magic at its best!
Quincy-La Port Road- Highway 36- This hike stands out for several reasons. First it was my best friend’s final section toward completing the PCT and I was invited to be a part of that experience. Second, I was introduced to Bruce and Mona Johnston who are some of the finest people you can ever meet. Lastly, we got to enjoy the hospitality of the lovely trail angels from Chester who we had met several years before. (see above) Hiking this with Rees and Bruce was a real joy. Completing the PCT with Rees was both an honor and thrill for me. The hike itself was not without some challenge but we overcame them.What could be better than that?!
Hiking with Billie and Doug 2017,2019- So much of my PCT experiences have been shared with Jim Peacock and Rees Hughes. As I began my effort to complete the PCT, two longtime friends offered to join me on parts of my remaining sections. Billie bravely offered to accompany me from Pines to Palms on to I-10 near Palm Springs. Another time he would join me from Tehachapi to Walker Pass. Doug had always wanted to be a part of some of my PCT experience. Due to work restraints that never worked out. Now in 2019 we would get that chance. Doug and I walked two different sections, one from near Ashland to Seiad Valley and another from Hat Creek Rim to Parks Creek Road near Mount Shasta. What really stands out for me is how these experiences deepened already strong friendships. A bond was forged that won’t ever break because of our times together.
Hiking alone 2017 and 2018- If you have read this post this far you have likely noticed that I have some deep connections with the people who I have shared the trail with over the years. In 2017 and again in 2018 I walked by myself. Altogether it was probably only less than ten days total. However in that time alone, I was able to recognize the strength I have slowly gained over the years being in the back country with partners. Despite.my trepidation for going it alone, I found being by myself was enlightening. I could think long and hard about all kinds of things. I was able to take stock in my self. I am all the better person for having had these experiences.
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The questions surrounding Pacific Crest Trail resupply in this year’s Pacific Crest Trail Thru-hiker Survey were expanded to better answer what’s one of the trails biggest challenges (at least in the planning stages).
Hopefully this information will help to lessen the unnecessary stress that hikers put themselves through when attempting to plan how to get more food and supplies into their packs whilst tramping through PCT wilderness.
Remember, this information is sourced from actual PCT hikers and is more than just one dude’s opinion (I’m that dude), but if we come across any anomalies in the data I will be sure to add my two cents (because I can’t afford more).
NOTE: A list of the different categories I broke hikers into and how they are identified can be found at the end of this post.
What your future holds.
TO MAIL OR NOT TO MAIL?
First, hikers think they must decide how many resupply boxes to send.
THIS IS WRONG.
Unless you’ve chosen to mail yourself ALL your resupply boxes, which I would definitely NOT recommend doing unless you have a very legitimate reason (e.g. you only eat Vegemite and dehydrated free-range poultry), then the only boxes you’re going to want to concern yourself with sending before you begin your hike are those you’ll need in the desert.
Instead, what you do is MAIL YOURSELF BOXES FROM THE TRAIL. When you get to a stop with a large and affordable enough selection of hiker food you buy yourself an extra resupply, pack it into a box, and mail it up the trail.
This saves you the stress of needing to pack everything into boxes beforehand and allows you the flexibility to mix up your resupplies on the trail (because chances are your taste/diet will change as you being to turn into an unstoppable hiking machine).
STRATEGY | 75% mailed SOME resupply boxes, 16% mailed ALL, 9% mailed NONE
FINISH – AVERAGE BOXES SENT | 12 (σ = 8.5)
Let’s go with the average and mail 12 resupply boxes. Where do we want to send them?
According to this year’s class, the places you’re going to want to mail your twelve resupply boxes are (in geographical order from south to north):
Warner Springs (Desert) – Mile 110
Kennedy Meadows (Sierra) – Mile 703
Sierra City (NorCal) – Mile 1,198
Crater Lake/Mazama Village Store (Oregon) – Mile 1,830
Shelter Cove (Oregon) – Mile 1,912
Big Lake Youth Camp (Oregon) – Mile 2,002
Timberline Lodge (Oregon) – Mile 2,107
Trout Lake (Washington) – Mile 2,234
White Pass (Washington) – Mile 2,303
Snoqualmie Pass (Washington) – Mile 2,402
Stevens Pass/Skykomish (Washington) – Mile 2,476
Stehekin (Washington) – Mile 2,574
RESUPPLY BOXES
So for the ENTIRE STATE of California you are only sending yourself THREE BOXES.
A lot of hikers also say that they wish they would have SENT BOXES FROM THE TRAIL instead of preparing all their resupplies ahead of time.
I know this might sound like a scary idea (does it really?), but trust me, it’s a smart move.
TOTAL PER SECTION:
DESERT: 1 (Warner Springs)
SIERRA: 1 (Kennedy Meadows)
NORCAL: 1 (Sierra City)
OREGON: 4 (Crater Lake, Shelter Cove, Big Lake Youth Camp, Timberline Lodge)
WASHINGTON: 5 (Trout Lake, White Pass, Snoqualmie Pass, Stevens Pass, Skehekin)
That’s it? Yes, that’s it.
PRO TIP: Use something flashy on your box so it stands out.
And the idea that you don’t need to mail a lot of resupply boxes isn’t only coming from people who mailed themselves far too many. An entire 12% of people who sent FEWER than the average of 12 said they would have preferred fewer boxes when asked what about their resupply strategy they would have changed.
I also asked hikers where they would have rather mailed themselves a box instead of buying locally. This could be either because the selection isn’t very good, the prices are high, or the store owners are assholes.
The top responses were (in geographic order from south to north):
Warner Springs (Desert)
Agua Dulce (Desert)
Vermilion Valley Resort (VVR) (Sierra)
Kennedy Meadows North (NorCal)
Sierra City (NorCal)
Belden (NorCal)
Mazama Village Store (Crater Lake) (Oregon)
Stehekin (Washington)
Agua Dulce, VVR, Kennedy Meadows North, and Belden did not make the “send a box here” list, so if you’re planning on resupplying at one of these locations (our “average resupply plan” is below) then you may want to consider sending an additional box.
Lastly (for this section), I asked what CHANGES hikers would make to their resupply strategies?
Mail fewer boxes (overwhelmingly).
Mail boxes from on then trail instead of ahead of time.
Send less food in resupply boxes.
Resupply more frequently.
WHAT FOOD TO SEND
Okay, but once you have your boxes, what should you be PUTTING INSIDE them? Some of the TOP COMMENTS I got from hikers about their resupplies said the following:
More variety in boxes (you can only eat so many Snickers and tortillas)
More dehydrated foods in boxes (if you have the means, then do it)
Less food in boxes (you’ll be stopping more than you think)
Healthier food in boxes (empty calories only get you so far)
More snacks, fewer meals in boxes (forget about the idea of “meals”)
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Looking for meal suggestions? The favorite (and least favorite) foods as reported by hikers was as follows:
FAVORITE SNACKS:
Tortillas
Snickers
Ramen
Candy
Nutella
Mountain House
“NEVER AGAIN” FOODS:
Clif Bars
Idahoan Potatoes
Pop-Tarts
Assorted bars
Tuna
Oatmeal
HOW FREQUENTLY TO STOP
Another question on the resupply agenda is “How often do I want to resupply?”
This is incredibly difficult for hikers to accurately predict before starting the trail because few people know what their pace is going to be or what their still unknown trail friends will want to do (just remember to hike your own hike).
Stopping more frequently means less time spent hiking (which before starting your hike might sound like a bad thing), but it also means that you will not be carrying as much weight (in food) between your resupplies (lighter = better).
So how many stops did the Class of 2016 make on their thru-hikes?
FINISH – AVERAGE RESUPPLY STOPS MADE | 26 (σ = 6.5)
And in their comments, many said they would have liked to resupply MORE OFTEN.
So let’s say that we’re going to just take the average plus one standard deviation to accommodate for the “more often” factor. That gives us a total of 32 resupply stops. That means you’re resupplying EVERY 83 MILES (134 km) on average. If you don’t want to carry more than seven days worth of food (which is a lot), then you would need to be doing an AVERAGE OF 11.8 miles per day (18.9 km).
How many miles per day did this year’s PCT Class average? 19.6 miles / 31.5 km.
Seems reasonable enough.
Good thing I haven’t begun to hate Snickers yet.
THE AVERAGE PCT RESUPPLY PLAN
Based on survey responses we can piece together what an “average” Pacific Crest Trail hiker’s resupply looked like for a 2016 thru-hike.
Now that we know how many boxes we’re mailing (12), where we’re mailing them to, what’s going in them, and how often we want to stop for resupplies, we can focus on arguably the most important question: where exactly are we going to stop?
A look we shall take, yes?
NOTE: The percentage of hikers who resupplied at each of the following places has been coded as follows: OVER 66%, 33-66%, LESS THAN 33%. Also, stops are listed in geographical order from south to north.
DESERT
Campo (42%)
Mount Laguna (88%)
Julian (55%)
Paradise Cafe (77%)
Warner Springs (90%)
Idyllwild (94%)
Anza (1%)
Cabazon (22%)
Big Bear City (44%)
Big Bear Lake (40%)
Big Bear Hostel (27%)
Wrightwood (85%)
Acton (47%)
The Saufley’s/Agua Dulce (78%)
The Anderson’s (70%)
Hikertown (74%)
Tehachapi (80%)
Majove (18%)
Ridgecrest (3%)
Kernville (1%)
Onyx (7%)
Lake Isabella (45%)
SIERRA
Kennedy Meadows (94%)
Lone Pine (35%)
Independence (45%)
Muir Trail Ranch (15%)
Bishop (57%)
Vermilion Valley Resort (49%)
Red’s Meadow (50%)
Mammoth Lakes (75%)
Tuolumne Meadows (85%)
Yosemite Valley (1%)
Lee Vining (5%)
Sonora Pass Resupply (1%)
Bridgeport (16%)
Kennedy Meadows North (45%)
Markleeville (3%)
For more on the Kennedy Meadows to Vermilion Valley Resort resupply, find my detailed post here.
If you’re interested in my PCT resupply for each section then check out the following posts:
PCT Progress Report I: The Desert
PCT Progress Report II: The Sierra
PCT Progress Report III: NorCal
PCT Progress Report IV: Oregon
PCT Progress Report V: Washington
NORTHERN CALIFORNIA
South Lake Tahoe (90%)
Echo Lake (26%)
Tahoe City (9%)
Soda Springs (7%)
Truckee (32%)
Sierra City (90%)
Quincy (20%)
Chester (57%)
Drakesbad (45%)
Old Station (71%)
Belden (83%)
Burney (38%)
Burney Falls Guest Ranch (2%)
Burney Falls (64%)
Castella (42%)
Dunsmuir (23%)
Mount Shasta (55%)
Etna (73%)
Seiad Valley (85%)
OREGON
Callahan’s (49%)
Ashland (85%)
Fish Lake (22%)
Lake of the Woods Resort (3%)
Mazama Village Store (Crater Lake) (95%)
Diamond Lake Resort (10%)
Shelter Cove Resort (79%)
Odell Lake Resort (7%)
Elk Lake Resort (38%)
Sisters (29%)
Bend (50%)
Big Lake Youth Camp (61%)
Olallie Lake Resort (55%)
Government Camp (13%)
Timberline Lodge (86%)
Cascade Locks (93%)
Hood River (8%)
Portland (1%)
WASHINGTON
Trout Lake (51%)
White Pass (93%)
Packwood (23%)
Snoqualmie Pass (96%)
Stevens Pass/Skykomish (71%)
The Dinsmores (22%)
Leavenworth (4%)
Stehekin (93%)
Mazama (9%)
Winthrop (10%)
That’s a lot of information.
How would our average Pacific Crest Trail thru-hiker have used his or her 32 resupply stops based on this information?
It would look something like this (COLORED NAMES indicate that sending a box was prefered by this year’s class):
DESERT:
Potential resupply options.
MILE 110: Warner Springs
MILE 179: Idyllwild
MILE 265: Big Bear City
MILE 364: Wrightwood
MILE 454: Agua Dulce
MILE 558: Tehachapi
MILE 652: Lake Isabella
SIERRA:
MILE 703: Kennedy Meadows
MILE 790: Independence
MILE 831: Bishop
MILE 903: Mammoth Lakes
MILE 942: Tuolumne Meadows
MILE 1018: Kennedy Meadows North
NORTHERN CALIFORNIA:
Sierra City’s overpriced store.
MILE 1093: South Lake Tahoe
MILE 1198: Sierra City
MILE 1334: Chester
MILE 1378: Old Station
MILE 1424: Burney Falls
MILE 1507: Mount Shasta
MILE 1606: Etna
MILE 1662: Seiad Valley
OREGON:
MILE 1727: Ashland
MILE 1830: Mazama Village Store (Crater Lake)
MILE 1912: Shelter Cove Resort
MILE 2002: Big Lake Youth Camp
MILE 2107: Timberline Lodge
MILE 2155: Cascade Locks
WASHINGTON:
Seiad Valley store.
MILE 2234: Trout Lake
MILE 2303: White Pass
MILE 2402: Snoqualmie Pass
MILE 2476: Stevens Pass/Skykomish
MILE 2574: Stehekin
WHERE DO WE LIKE?
I also asked about hikers’ FAVORITE and LEAST FAVORITE resupply points. Here’s what we came up with (for each section):
FAVORITE RESUPPLY POINTS
DESERT: Idyllwild
SIERRA: Bishop
NORCAL: South Lake Tahoe
OREGON: Ashland
WASHINGTON: Stehekin
HONORABLE MENTIONS
Mammoth Lakes (Sierra)
Wrightwood (Desert)
LEAST FAVORITE RESUPPLY POINTS
DESERT: Hikertown
SIERRA: Kennedy Meadows
NORCAL: Belden
OREGON: Shelter Cove
WASHINGTON: Snoqualmie Pass
HONORABLE MENTIONS
Seiad Valley (NorCal)
Sierra City (NorCal)
And lastly, what about hitchhiking into town? I asked hikers what resupply stops (if any) they had difficulty making it to from the trail. The top responses were (from south to north):
Lake Isabella (Desert)
Independence from Kearsarge Pass (Sierra)
Bishop (Sierra)
Etna (Northern California)
Trout Lake (Washington)
If there is ANYTHING you can think of that would make this information more useful (or any more resupply-related cross-referencing you would like to see), then please LEAVE A COMMENT and let me know.
FOR MORE ON PCT RESUPPLY, CHECK OUT THESE POSTS.
Here are the labels used to differentiate hiker segments in this post:
FINISH: Everyone who completed the entire PCT (regardless of direction hiked)
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PCT Class of 2016 Survey: The Resupply Guide The questions surrounding Pacific Crest Trail resupply in this year's Pacific Crest Trail Thru-hiker Survey were expanded to better answer what's one of the trails biggest challenges (at least in the planning stages).
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