Peach pink silk dress, 1910-1912, French.
Designed by Paul Poiret.
Palais Galliera.
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Day dress by Poiret ca. 1910
From Tessier-Sarou
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house of poiret in the art of haute couture - victor skrebneski + laura jacobs (1995)
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George Barbier, Paul Poiret gowns, Les Modes, 1912.
Colour illustration by George Barbier from Les Modes showing two young women wearing dramatic evening outfits influenced by the current interest in orientalism, one is an empire line gown in gold draped fabric featuring a printed Egyptian scene, the other is a loose fitting wrap style mantle with a black, grey and white geometric design and fur collar, both women wear turban style hats with feathers, Paris, France,1912. (x)
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Seta. Potere e glamour
Tessuti e abiti dal rinascimento al XX secolo
Roberta Orsi Landini
Autori dei saggi: Marie Bouzard, Marina Carmignani, Andreina d’Agliano, Franco Franceschi, Dominique Charles Fuchs, Sofia Gnoli, Susan Miller, Roberta Orsi Landini, Maria Pia Pettinau Vescina
SilvanaEditoriale, Cinisello Balsamo 2009, 192 pagine, 120 ill.a colori, 10 ill. bianco e nero, 23x28cm, brossura, ISBN 978883661492
euro 35,00
Sfarzo, raffinatezza e seduzione. Questi sono gli argomenti affrontati nel volume, dedicato alla storia di un materiale tanto antico quanto prezioso: la seta.
Pubblicato in occasione dell’omonima mostra, il catalogo – che inaugura la collana del CeSAC - Centro Sperimentale per le Arti Contemporanee di Caraglio – sottopone all’attenzione del pubblico tre momenti storici in cui la seta, soprattutto attraverso le vesti, ha assunto un ruolo significativo nella storia del costume e della produzione: il Rinascimento, gli anni a cavallo fra Seicento e Settecento, e la prima metà del secolo XX. Il boom della seta, che vede la realizzazione di veri e insuperati capolavori tessili – manifestazione di ricchezza dei ceti più potenti – è il Quattrocento, quando alcuni centri italiani, come Venezia, Firenze o Genova, ne diventano i più importanti produttori europei. Una produzione pregiata che viene accresciuta, fra Seicento e Settecento, dagli scambi con il lontano Oriente: decorazioni bizzarre e fantastiche, ispirate alla cultura figurativa turca, indiana, cinese e giapponese, fioriscono su fondi dalle cromie nuove e brillanti. Il��Novecento, con il diffondersi dell’industrializzazione, vede mutare ancora l’aspetto e il significato dell’abbigliarsi in seta. Questa diventa un tessuto di appannaggio quasi esclusivamente femminile, mentre nuovi generi tessili, come crêpes e chiffons, favoriscono l’affermazione di una nuova moda, tutta giocata sulla seduzione. In catalogo, introdotti da saggi critici, sono documentati alcuni capolavori tessili provenienti dal Museo del Bargello di Firenze e dal Centro di Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume di Venezia, nonché abiti di sartorie o creatori famosi – Fortuny, Poiret, Schiaparelli, Capucci – e capi appartenuti a importanti dive o personalità: Rita Hayworth, Mirna Loy e Soraya Esfandiary.
07/04/24
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US Vogue October 1, 1956
Perugia-Poiret Shoe Ideas — 1918 or 1956?
Photo William Klein
vogue archive
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Fashion in 1914 -
1915 (first exhibited) Rose, née Boote, Fourth Marchioness of Headfort by Sir William Orpen (auctioned by Sotheby's) slightly increased exposure 1244X1675.
Left 1914 (July) Another ensemble by Jenny, Les Modes - photo by Félix. From les-modes.tumblr.com/page/18; fixed spots w Pshop 725X1920.
Center 1914 (July) Ensemble by Jenny, Les Modes - photo by Félix. From les-modes.tumblr.com/page/18 696X1920.
Right 1914 (June) Evening gown by Lucile from Les Modes From les-modes.tumblr.com/post/52480680436/evening-gown-by-lucile-les-modes-june-1914; fixed spots & flaws w Pshop 1109X1920.
1914 Doña Ascensión Reynoso Mateo by Enrique Dorda Rodriguez (private collection). From history-of-fashion.tumblr.com/image/125539729854; fixed bigger spots w Pshop 861X1308.
Left 1914 dress for the races. From messynessychic.com/2018/04/27/lovely-ladies-in-lace-at-the-paris-races; removed print with Photoshop and cropped 857X1242.
Right 1914 Les toilettes à Longchamp with umbrellas (Bibliothèque nationale de France - Paris, France). From their Gallica collection 820X1178
1914 Duquesa Sofia de Hohenberg by C. Kofel. From Wikimedia; fixed spots w Pshp 933X1483.Her assassination along with her husband Archduke Ferdinand's in Sarajevo triggered World War 1.
1914 Gazette du Bon Ton "Le Choix Difficile Manteau du soir de Worth" by Boutet-DeMonvel artophile.com 750X1096.
1914 La Inglesa by Ramón Casas (auctioned by Sotheby's). From their Web site 692X1983.
Left 1914 Longchamp, modes aux courses (Bibliothèque nationale de France - Paris, France). From their Gallica collection; removed spots and fixed upper edge with Photoshop 834X1261.
Right 1914 Longchamp, modes aux courses small hat and blouson bodice (Bibliothèque nationale de France - Paris, France). From their Gallica collection; removed spots with Photoshop 787X1287.
1914 Mlle. Gabrielle Dorziat by Robert Sauber (location ?). From jeannepompadour.tumblr.com/post/120549819170/mlle-gabrielle-dorziat-by-robert-sauber-1914 via pinterest.com/tailleboisfabienne00/peintures/ 1053X1920.
Left 1914 Mode à Longchamp (Bibliothèque nationale de France - Paris, France). From their Gallica collection 821X1201.
Right 1914 Modes du Derby à Chantilly (Bibliothèque nationale de France - Paris, France). From their Gallica collection; removed spots and flaws with Photoshop 936X1181.
Left 1914 Parisian fashion of the end of the Belle Époque 0. From yadi.sk/a/bVdkli-N3ZRDZc 819X1191.
Right 1914 Parisian fashion of the end of the Belle Époque 1 (1). From yadi.sk/a/bVdkli-N3ZRDZc 825X1181.
1914 Parisian fashion of the end of the Belle Époque 1 (8). From yadi.sk/a/bVdkli-N3ZRDZc 1096X847.
Left 1914 Les Modes Art Nouveau style Robe du Soir by Baron Christoff von Drecoll. From tumblr.com/mote-historie/732354780761079808/robe-du-soir-par-drecoll-les-modes-paris-1914?source=share&.
Center 1914 (August issue) La Gazette du Bon Ton L'Arbre de Science (The Tree of Science), Robe du Soir de Georges Doeuillet by George Barbier. From tumblr.com/mote-historie/730912140703268864/george-barbier-larbre-de-science-robe-du-soir?source=share&.
Right 1914 1914 La Femme Chic à Paris by Souchel. From tumblr.com/fashionsfromthepast/744198373624725504? 1802X2381.
Left 1914 Parisian fashion of the end of the Belle Époque 1 (1). From yadi.sk/a/bVdkli-N3ZRDZc 825X1181.
Right 1914 Parisian fashion of the end of the Belle Époque 1 (26). From yadi.sk/a/bVdkli-N3ZRDZc 679X1025.
1914 (January issue) Femina illustration by Georges Lepape. From tumblr.com/mote-historie/731824161202307072/georges-lepape-fantasie-sur-fantaisies-la?source=share& 1158X659. A satirical opinion of Poiret Sorbet style?
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"Eventail Publicitaire", flacon de parfum "Borgia" et ensemble flacon et boîte "Hahna l'Etrange Fleur" des Parfums de Rosine (1910-15) à l'exposition “Le Paris de la Modernité (1905-1925)” du Petit Palais, Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris, décembre 2023.
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1922 Marchesa Luisa Casati, representing 'Light' Costume by House of Worth. A costume made of a net of diamonds, glittering silver fringe, a gold feather sun against a diamond tiara and embroidered diamond stars. From the book “A century of fashion” by Jean-Philippe Worth, 1928.
The press said:
“Marchesa Luisa Casati made the Venetian night her slave.”
Muse to many including Sir Cecil Beaton, Paul Poiret, Mariano Fortuny, John Galliano and Karl Lagerfeld.
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1918 André Perugia and Paul Poiret shoe ideas.
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coat and dress “Fédora”, designed by Paul Poiret, 1924
Musée Galliera de la Mode de la Ville de Paris
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Edward Steichen
Model Dinarzade in a Dress by Poiret
1924
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Giedre Dukauskaite after Poiret S/S 19
Giedre Dukauskaite after Poiret S/S 19
View On WordPress
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Georges Lepape, Woman Smelling Flower, Design for a white dress in the 'Hellenic style', Les choses de Paul Poiret, Fashion plate, 1911.
Illustration from Les choses de Paul Poiret vues par Georges Lepape (limited edition number 261).
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Scarves
Nicky Albrechtsen, Fola Solanke
Thames & Hudson, London 2021, compact edition, 304 pages, 25.5 x 21.2 cm, ISBN 978-0-500-29617-2
euro 28,50
Indispensable accessories and sought-after collectors’ items, scarves were an important innovation in 20th-century fashion. From Art Deco through 1950s Hollywood, the Swinging Sixties and beyond, scarves have been represented in every major decorative arts movement over the past century and into the present one. This marvellously illustrated compendium showcases the work of a wide range of international designers: Paul Poiret, Elsa Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, Mary Quant, Gucci, Christian Lacroix, Yves Saint Laurent, Zandra Rhodes, Nicole Miller, and many more. It features more than 250 scarves, beautifully reproduced in colour and all specially photographed, and many never before seen in print.
24/02/24
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