Climb time! Feat. @bowelfly's magnificent weevzard, Quercus
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Like this post if you've ever gone rock climbing
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New set at the climbing gym today. The problems are new enough they don't have grades yet so me and partner are just throwing ourselves at whatever looks doable. There's this tallish slab problem with a HUGE muscly move up to the end hold but I'm looking at it like. Yeah, I can do it. Which, if I think I can do it with some practice, usually means it's no higher than a v4-v5 (intermediate range, for non climbers). Girl comes over to ask what grade we think it is, we tell her v4-ish. She can't do it either. Then her boyfriend comes over and flashes the problem with the BIGGEST, SHAKIEST power move accompanied by the loudest power yell I have ever heard. Then he hops down and goes "that's not a v4, that's at LEAST a v6 or v7 (start of advanced ranges), especially at this gym because their setting is so soft." And we were like, ok sure dude, but I'm still eyeing this problem like "...but I could do it though?" And granted I'm good at slab, but I'm not like. V6 good at slab.
Anyway, I looked that problem up on my gym's app when I got home and it's a... drumroll please... v3 (aka lower intermediate/tough beginner range).
Moral of the story: the confident power shouting white man at your climbing gym in fact does NOT know everything, even if he thinks he does, but hey, that might have actually felt like a v6 to him the same way it felt like a v4 to me. Similarly, my v3 might feel like a v5 to my partner, who is nine inches shorter than me, or vice versa, because she is much stronger. Grades are ONE PERSON'S thoughts on how hard something is -- almost always the setter. They don't reflect the varieties of skills, body types, and sheer motherfucking audacity you will encounter in a group of climbers. You're way better off listening to your body and taking advice from people with skill sets and body types like yours than letting your confidence be dictated by beta-spraying randos at the gym OR routesetters themselves.
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Day 170
Rock climbing cat
His name is Sorbet
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My second home 🖤
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new climb with pride stickers now available //may ‘23
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Meet pamela parker, aka the alpine spider. She was bitten by a radioactive spider when dealing with an intense climb, And despite The bite, finished the climb. Her best friend and belay partner, gwen stacy died from pamela letting go of the slack at the wrong time when belaying gwen amidst a fight with a villain. Now she is her universes one and only spider woman
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I’m going climbing (among other things) later today for the first time in a while, but my back is really quite painful, and I only woke up twenty four minutes ago. I can’t even tell only about it, so it’s up to you to remember my pain tumblr
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Friends who belay together, stay together
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Ran into my heroes today. These guys are the reason I pour my heart and soul into rock climbing and getting to meet them in person was fucking surreal.
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Random body fun fact time:
Some of you might already know about the palmaris longus muscle, which is a muscle in the wrist that is absent in some people (I have it in one arm but not the other). You can see if you have it by touching your pinky to your thumb and then bending your wrist in slightly -- if you have it, it'll pop up against the skin. I've heard mixed things about the effect of this muscle on grip strength, and the consensus seems to be that it's vestigial and doesn't matter. For most of my life I've regarded the existence of this muscle as a useless curiosity, just one of those fun little genetic variance things you can compare with your friends, right along with attached earlobes and the ability to curl your tongue.
Anyway like every millenial and their dogs I'm a rock climber. Ever since I started, I have had a marked preference for gripping and pulling on my left hand, despite being, like the majority of people, right handed. At first I figured this was because of a lingering shoulder injury on my right side, but even after years of strengthening and rehabbing that shoulder, every grip strength test shows, numerically, that my left hand is about 10-15% stronger than my right for the purposes of just like, grabbing things real hard.
Well. Guess which arm is missing a whole muscle? Yep -- my right hand is the one WITHOUT the palmaris longus, and ol' lefty has it solidly in place. (Interestingly, my left hand is also the one that shows symptoms of carpal tunnel if I play too many video games, which is apparently also something that happens when that muscle gets inflamed). So there's a fun little piece of anecdotal evidence for ya.
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🖤
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new low gravity day rock climbing stickers in dark teal now available ✨ link in bio
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