Day 9: Embracing the French Alps
The morning discerned an opportunity - A sliver of manageable climate was snaking its way through the Alpine terrain, creating a window between the French and Italian alps. Although a couple of the passes I'd originally earmarked, the Agnel and Col du Madeline, were inaccessible due to a fatal accident and snow respectively, other spectacular routes awaited.
First up was the Col du Vars, followed by the Col d'Izoard. Rising to an altitude of around 2400m, the Col d'Izoard is a legend among the southern French Alpine passes, and I was thrilled to be finally navigating its winding roads. Despite the biting cold, the ride was nothing short of exhilarating - open roads, unimpeded visibility, and ever-changing scenery from gurgling rivers and roadside waterfalls to climbs by snowy peaks.
Every component seemed to be in sync on this route. The frosty, yet sunny weather was perfect for the Guzzi, which backfired and spluttered acoustically. My riding too was confident and fluid, evidenced by a christened hero blob below my right foot peg and a scratched up side stand on the left. It all converged into a truly memorable ride down an iconic alpine road.
Descending from Col d'Izoard into Briançon, the pleasure was somewhat overshadowed by an emergency vehicle and a helicopter retuning back up the pass. Despite my concern for the people involved in what must have been an accident behind me, I continued my journey, aiming next for Col de Montgenèvre and Susa.
But, the allure of Col de Lautaret and the mighty Col du Galibier, rising to 2600m, was irresistible. I was conscious that tackling these routes would mean bracing for sub-zero temperatures, leading me to a pit-stop at Decathlon for additional thermal gear.
Climbing into Col du Galibier, the landscape became an icy white spectacle. The road was surrounded by towering walls of ice, spiralling up towards the peak. I paused at the summit, taking in the sight of Mont Blanc in the distance. Celebrating my achievement with a cup of camp stove-brewed coffee from melted snow, I toasted the French Alps, readying myself for the next chapter of my journey in Italy.
As I entered Susa, a bustling Italian town, the contrast was stark. I had been enveloped by the tranquil grandeur of the Pyrenees and the Alps, and now, the urban clamor jarred me. That's when clarity struck me - I was not on this journey for cities, which I could always visit by plane. I was traveling for the chance to embrace nature and mountainscapes, something I may never get the chance to see again. This moment prompted a quick turnaround; arrivedeci, Italy. Let’s see what the Swiss alps have to offer instead.
My route took me via the D1006, traversing next to Mont Cenis. This journey offered sweeping views of the Lac du Mont-Cenis and towering mountains. The scale of everything, reminiscent of what my brother described about Canadian roads, was jaw-dropping. It was on this road, winding down from Mont Cenis to val Cenis, that I realise I’m perfectly set up for an ambitious challenge: the Col de l'Iseran.
Col de l'Iseran, the highest and arguably most demanding road in the Swiss Alps, standing at a vertigo-inducing 2,764m, was no joke. For both my rattling Guzzi and me, it’s a big ask.
Herein lay my predicament. While essential, a second night in a hotel was an expense I hadn't budgeted for and honestly, couldn’t really justify. Particularly after forking out €90 on thermal clobber.
In the end, necessity birthed resilience. I took on an unexpected role as a haggler, knocking on hotel doors, awkwardly negotiating with receptionists, until finally striking a deal at the Alpazur hotel for just a quarter of the listed price.
Settling in, I’m eating sweaty leftover sausages from the previous day and prepared for an early night. Big day tomorrow.
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#cse • @champagnemaxim Rolling in to the last corner of the Col d'Izoard. @izoardphotos #ridemotorcycleshavefun #memphisshades #billtwell #moonsmc #gopro #harleydavidson #coldizoard — view on Instagram https://ift.tt/2XnB1OB
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Where we want to be just right now! (à Col d'Izoard) https://www.instagram.com/p/CAqI5erlTV3/?igshid=16x0flg4z2lpy
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Clear Sky, 23°C
D137, 05600 Mont-Dauphin, France
Tuesday 25th September 2018
Despite the altitude and clear skies last night I am happy to report that no frost was evident this morning but it was a little chillier than of late , prompting me to put the heating on if only for a little while.
Another day and another Col, and today it was to be the Col d'Izoard at 2361m, but first the usual housekeeping chores. Fortunately just across the road from our overnighter spot were recycling facilities and a fresh water supply so after disposing of our rubbish and replenishing our water tank , we were off.
We had a descent of about 800m to Briancon and stopped off twice enroute , firstly to fill up with diesel and secondly to make a bread stop. It occurred to me too late that perhaps it would have been better to fill up with water and fuel AFTER making the 1300m descent from the Col d'Izaord , as the extra fluids on board would add about 200kg extra payload for my long suffering brake pads to have to cope with later , Doh !
Still on a positive note the bread weighed next to nothing !
The route up the Col was not particularly dramatic or challenging (in driving , NOT cycling terms) compared with others we have recently traversed but once at the summit the views were , in my opinion the best so far . A stunning 360 degree panorama of endless mountain peaks as far as the eye could see. Once again we had been fortunate to visit in perfect conditions. Sadly for me , Snowdonia for all its beauty will never seem the same again.
Also worthy of note were the fairly ramshackle looking timber toilets which had been secured down with large ratchet straps (see photos). Someone must have told the authorities Rhian was coming !
After the usual photos at the summit , it was about lunch time so we descended a few hundred metres and found a nice spot for lunch before continuing on to my destination of choice today namely Mont Dauphin , an 18th century walled citadel about 50 mins away.
The venerable D902(French road ) must be the French Route 66 or equivalent. It seems the majority of our travels along the Route Des Grande Alpes has been along this road and it has never disappointed, today being no different. We travelled through steep sided gorges , through roughly hewn tunnels and under overhangs of blasted rock to eventually arrive at our destination , a large gravel car park servicing Mont Dauphin.
The site was again very impressive and offered fabulous 360 degree views across at least four converging valleys. The wind had picked up by this point and being in an elevated position we knew we would be in for a blustery night.
After refreshments all round we walked into the citadel which was a little unusual , it was a normal town i.e. people lived there , but it was also a historical site and we saw guided tours of coach visitors being taken around the citadel whilst the inhabitants went about their daily lifes seemingly oblivious. Human zoo sprang to mind , but perhaps this is being to cynical, I think it is good that such a lovely and impressive place is not just an ancient relic but a thriving community to be enjoyed by everyone, including the tourists , but would I want to live there ? probably not !
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Today I took my TT bike for a ride remembering Stage 5 at #hauteroutealps climbing col d’lizored 2360m, Pure fun #bolle_ambassador #tubolito #sailfish #gu #sponser #cycling #TT (at Col d'Izoard) https://www.instagram.com/p/B2efCI_AXaB/?igshid=i3x6ca6phl1i
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Federico Bahamontes dominating the Col d'Izoard during the 1954 Tour de France.
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