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#evil sunz
wh40kgallery · 9 days
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Nob Warbiker
by Karl Kopinski
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soylent-robot · 7 months
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a random assortment of orks to fill out some old units for the new 10e rules
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erwansiannodel · 2 months
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First batch of a bunch of Evil sunz Ork Nobz I had, half finished, in my backlog.
Feel free to C&C
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crippledgiraff · 2 years
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It has been a BUSY week so I'm playing a bit of catch-up on Orctober2022 . Let me show you my collection of orc Shields!
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vivsemporium · 1 year
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Guess who has more content!!!
These boiz are complete and are up for sale. 2nd edition gretchin orkz that were kindly gifted to me unpainted by @zrinboy
If interested, please send me a message and we will work on pricing! As I am fairly new to commissions, my prices will be flexible :)! Theres so much more in the works so please be patient with me in the meantime! I have three sets of Warhammer figs, and a complete Stardew Valley house built, just needs paint and polymer clay animals.
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zestyaardvarks · 2 years
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PARTS 1-10  PART 11  PART 12  PART 13  PART 14  PART 15 PART 16  PART 17 PART 18
My Growing Warhammer Collection part 19: ORKS! (bad friend edition). Painted by commission by my friend and impeccable painter YMCharlie, CHECK IT!
Oy wuz dis den? These are my custom Evil Sunz inspired by the corrupted Fel Orcs from Warcraft 3 with their red skin and green magic. This is "bad friend edition" because Charlie painted these like a year ago, I've had these pictures all year, and I just never posted them. But here they are now! And check his Instagram out! He's really fucking good! And when his schedule allows for it you should pay him to paint your minis! Because he's fantastic! He's got Star Wars, Warhammer Underworlds, Lorda Them Rings, Bolt Action, Warhammer 40K, and more!
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probable-death · 1 year
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Getting back into painting my Warhammer after half a decade. Lots of fun.
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kasperl-ruprecht · 2 years
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escbyond · 2 years
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scarredsands · 10 months
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ORREANS ARE JUST EVIL SUNZ.
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homunculus-argument · 5 months
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The only correct way to name makeup and nail polish colours is naming them like Warhammer figurine paints. You gotta give a good mental image of what you've got. Why would you want a lipstick or a polish named something boring like "Red #857" when you should have it named something like "Flesh tearers red" or "Evil sunz scarlet". If you wear eyeshadow at all, you can't tell me you wouldn't wear one that's named "Ironbreaker" or "Deathworld forest".
A name is the most valuable thing that one can give for free. Do not fuck it up.
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wh40kgallery · 1 month
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Prophecy of Waaagh!
by Misha Savier
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soylent-robot · 7 months
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also jazzed up an older model to match my newer scheme
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erwansiannodel · 1 year
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Da rest of da "Evil sunz" Ork Boyz. Feel free to C&C
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agbpaints · 4 months
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Getting back into the swing of doing paint tutorials- I pulled a Spider out of a salvage box and I figured I'd do a quick and dirty davion scheme! This is the parade paint job for the First Davion Guards, AKA quintessential battletech 'good' guy mechs.
Paints you will need:
Black primer
Dark grey (citadel mechanicus standard grey)
Light grey (citadel dawnstone)
Off white (army painter spaceship armor)
Red (citadel mephiston red)
Light blue (citadel baharroth blue)
Green (citadel warpstone glow)
Gun metal (citadel leadbelcher)
Silver (citadel rune fang steel)
Dark wash (citadel drakenhof nightshade)
Citadel akhelian green cintrast
Citadel blood angels red contrast
Things you might want
Khaki (citadel zandri dust)
Fleshy orange (citadel ratskin flesh)
White (army painter matt white)
Dark green (citadel Caribana green)
Light red (citadel evil sunz scarlet)
Yellow (citadel averland sunset)
Black (army painter matt black)
Citadel aggaros dunes contrast
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I started by basing my mini with my normal desert badlands basing scheme (paint base in glue, sprinkle on basing sand and let cure. Paint on more glue and stick down some aquarium gravel) and then priming the whole thing black with brush-on primer.
Once the primer is finished drying, load some of your dark grey up on a fat drybrush, wipe off slightly less than most of the paint, and then apply the remainder to the model in long up and down strokes. All of the panels should be grey, with some black showing in crevices and hard to reach recesses of the model. Next, repeat this process with your light grey paint, but wipe off more and apply less liberally- you want the darker grey color to remain in most places with the edges and raised details highlighted in grey. Finally, drybrush the model one last time with your off-white color only in the areas that will catch the light most like the head, torso, shoulders, the vectoring fins on the mech's back, and the outstretched left knee.
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Now that the mech has been presented in greyscale, we can make it blue. Akhelian green is going to be doing the majority of the heavy lifting in this paint scheme- I find it to be a pretty easy contrast paint to work with. Apply it undiluted to the model, looking to spread it in a single coat like a thick wash, and then leave it to dry for 20 minutes. Afterwards, you might want to brighten the blue up in places as I did- drybrush on some light blue in the same areas you used off-white earlier.
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At this point, I got a little excited and decided to do the Davion stripes. Start with your red, pretty well thinned on your palet, and a thin detail brush. To make this easy on ourselves, we're going to look for vertical panels on the left side of the mech's torso and leg and basically connect all of those with a straight line. In the case of the Spider, the easy ones are the shoulder and that panel that runs down the upper thigh. Apply a thin edge highlight of red along those panels and then carefully continue the line down the rest of the leg, terminating at the ankle. If your hand is steady enough, run a thin line of red around the mech's ankle where the vertical line ends. Then, go back with your off-white and using the red line you made already as a guide, run a parallel stripe down the outside edge of the red (if you swap these battletech nerds will dunk on you online).
At this point, I also striped the ridge running down the Spider's helmet, but it's not super necessary.
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Now that we've got our blue sorted out, we've got a bit of a 'draw the rest of the owl' step. First, you're going to want to go back over any of the parts of the model that you want to be exposed mechanical elements with your dark grey. I painted the joints in the legs, the shoulders, the lasers and the big vent on the chest, the 'chin strap' under the spider's canopy glass, and the jump jets in this color. Then, wash the grey with your favorite dark wash- I really like the deep blue of drakenhof nightshade but something like nuln oil will also work well for this. Finally, apply a light drybrush of your light grey to the shaded grey. If a part is too recessed to easily drybrush, you can leave it as is or do use a small brush to carefully highlight it. You should also add a small dot of green to the inside of each of the laser barrels at this point.
Next, paint the mech's canopy glass silver. Once that's dry, paint over the silver with blood angels red or any other colorful contrast paint for a vibrant metallic color.
If you're following along with my desert basing, paint the sand on the base khaki and the larger pebbles with your fleshy orange. Then paint over everything with agarros dunes contrast or a dark brown wash like agrax earthshade.
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And with that you have a Spider that's fully ready for tabletop with 3 colors, shading, and a textured base. There's still a couple more things we can do if you have more time and patience that I'll detail below.
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To apply some quick and dirty jeweling to the lasers, start by painting a half circle of light green on each barrel, focused on one of the bottom corners. Paint the recess of the barrel with a dot of dark green and put a tiny little dot of white opposite the half circle of green, which should now be more of a crescent shape with with dark spot in the center.
While the white is still in your pallet, you can also highlight the parts of the off white stripes on the mech most exposed to overhead light like the lower thigh, knee, and shoulder. Do the same thing with the red stripe using a light red as well.
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At this point I also added unit numbering to the mech's shoulder. Basic numbers are a really good way to practice your fine control and I try to consistently add a couple to each of my projects. Use your off-white well thinned and a fine detail brush, lock your hand holding the model against your hand holding the brush just below the wrists, and then draw the paintbrush 'downwards' with a pulling motion. This should keep you your line relatively straight and fine.
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While you can keep the jump jets on your mech dark I prefer to paint mine with some orange in them. Using the fleshy orange from earlier, paint most of the interior of each jump jet, then add a dot of yellow at the very deepest recess of each one.
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Finally, let's add some hazard stripes to the mech. Pick out a few areas near joints or vents that seem like a bad place for an Astech's hand to go and paint in a thick 'edge highlight' of black. Then, going back to yellow find the center of the line and add a diagonal tickmark there. You may need to go over this more than twice to get a strong color depending on your yellow. Once your centerline is marked, work out towards the edges, painting another ticmark at regular intervals until you hit the ends of the Black.
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djpain619 · 3 months
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WIP WEDNESDAY
Progress on Anker Brüggards/Jörgan Brüggardson (and Boris Bagger)
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I redid the flesh tones on Boris, as well as his Eyes. I repainted his natural eye and touched up the leadbelcher on his eyepatch goggle. I think I'm ready to call him done. I just need to do his square base.
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I painted the jumpsuit, gloves, and eyes Evil Sunz Scarlett and slapped Hashut Copper on some details. Painted the collar White Scar.
I painted the porthole black in preparation of my most ambitious project yet; painting a tiny picture of swirling beer.
What I'm going for:
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[Just the porthole]
As for the name, Anker Brüggards is the one that Establishes the Aleniheim Brewery during the time of The Old World, Jörgan Brüggardson is his Heir that runs the Brewery and coaches the Team during the current era of BLOOD BOWL.
During the time of The Old World Boris Bagger is a young and accomplished Mercenary Captain hired by Anker Brüggards to be his Chief of Security. During the current era of BLOOD BOWL, Boris is the Old Grizzled CEO and Commander in Cheif of the renowned Grogstout Arsenal.
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