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Hi! Got any tips on caring for a Goodra? I have Sensory Stuff(tm) going on so getting full-on slime hugged is a no for me, but I also know Goodra are affectionate and need human contact as much as moisturizing. What do?
Thanks! From Kari (@starlight-over-hisui)
plush companions (i recommend material that can be cleaned easily, plus keeping baking soda on hand to dry up the slime) or other pokemon that don't mind getting cozy can help keep a goodra company, but when they've bonded to a trainer, they really need that physical contact with their person. if you're not able to handle a full-on hug, sometimes they can get by with just a head in the lap or holding hands.
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pokecare · 7 months
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How to Pet each Eeveelution
eevee: everywhere. forehead scritchies for SURE. get your hands in the fluffy mane and tail and you know the belly is fluffy too
jolteon: dont hurt yourself on the spines! it dislikes its paws being touched so i would scratch its face and ears and under the chin for optimal pets
flareon: extremely fluffy, long fur but if you pet it for too long it may get too hot so pat it gently and lightly to avoid burning your hands
umbreon: very short fur (OOC: similar to a horse) doesnt like pets on its ears or tail. back is most optimal for pets
leafeon: be very gentle if petting on the leaves! otherwise pets and scratches like a dog are acceptable everywhere else . might enjoy a belly rub.
sylveon: pet downwards like a cat. gentle face scritches acceptable. you can hold its ribbons gently like a paw if you would like (it will be able to sense your emotions if you touch its ribbons)
glaceon: dont pet for too long lest you freeze your hands! the tail, crest, and paws are colder than the main body so avoid petting there, light short pets on the back and head are acceptable. very smooth body (OOC: similar to a seal.)
espeon: VERY fine short fur almost like peach fuzz, does not enjoy being pet for too long but you may pet/rub its face and ears (avoid touching its gem) and it might enjoy a belly rub if it trusts you
vaporeon: will make a wet slap like slapping a slime if you pat it. has a tendency to melt slightly if very contented with petting. has a smooth body like a seal and can be pet anywhere that isnt fins (ears included). gently slapping its back or belly is very funny would recommend
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shilo-sumac · 2 months
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Got some Rattata pups in today. Dude claimed that his Glameow got a hold of the mother. Unfortunately, it seems one is missing a leg and a tail, though otherwise they seem alert. ... Extremely doubtful about that story though. If you look close at the one missing a limb you can see it slight shimmer affect, a shiny. I think I might've just gotten someone dropping off some unwanted products of shiny hunting :/ wonder if I can report him, but he didn't even give a name when he dropped them off.
Here's a picture of the littleuns, anyway. No way to tell them apart yet besides the shiny until they grow in their fur, I dunno what kinda colors and patterns we're gonna get!
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I made them a little nest and they're currently warming up under a heat lamp.
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cunk-on-poke-earth · 4 months
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On this blog, I, Philomina Cunk, will explain the world to you. You'll learn history, science, and other genres of study I haven't bothered to look up before typing this. I'll be interviewing various experts in the field to get their expertise and experience as they explain why it sucks ass to live on Poke-Earth. I could have told you that, but an expert opinion gets more views.
//ooc under cut
hey, it's xander (@mira-annabelles-poke-kitchen) back with another tumblr funnyman gimmick blog. this will make no sense if you haven't watched Cunk on Earth, an amazing mockumentary series. Pelipper Mail is on, no malice or magic anons, keep it light lol.
warnings for unreality, mild vulgarity, profanity, and profane stupidity
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pokemoncaretips · 9 months
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The wimpod line
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You messed up a perfectly good pokemon is what you did! Look at it, it has anxiety!
General notes: An anxious mon with a pretty tough evolution, this pokemon best suits those with a lot of patience.
General care: The wimpod is a nervous creature. And with good reason. It has no claws, teeth or spines, and only has a somewhat noxious spit for defence. This little pokemon sits squarely on the bottom of the food chain and is KEENLY aware of this.
It seeks out small dark spaces to make a nest, and I recommend setting up a small kennel inside and opening the pokeball near it when it first comes home, as it will make a beeline for the nearest dark place. They aren't fussy, though, and will nest under beds, dressers and sofas. I've even heard of one living in the gap between a fridge and a cabinet. The space doesn't need to be big, wimpod prefer hiding in tight places. It should be wide enough that the wimpod can scuttle back to exit but otherwise they like to be fairly enclosed when hiding. In the wild they live under rocks and old tree trunks.
Set up food, water and a litter tray near the space they've chosen, so if they're feeling particularly anxious they don't have to travel far.
They are fully nocturnal at this stage, and will only wiggle out of their hidey hole when its pitch black outside. This is when they'll explore the house and interact with you. You may need nerves of steel for this pokemon, as it will likely clamber onto your pillow and investigate you with taps from its antenna. In wimpod keeping circles it is affectionately called "the sleep paralysis pokemon". Startling or shouting will terrify it, and may damage the future relationship. It becomes bolder when it approaches evolution, and may even clamber into your lap in the evenings. They aren't the easiest to cuddle, but seem to enjoy being rubbed under the antennae.
During the night, it will likely "tidy up", eating dropped crumbs and investigating small items. It has a tendency to drop anything that isn't interesting, so watch where you step in the morning lest you painfully rediscover that lego piece you lost.
They have a bad habit of storing large bits of food in their hole for later, and their idea of what constitutes "expired" is vastly different from humans. So it doesn't attract pests or stink out the house, check and clear its hidey hole when you can.
Golisopod is a total 180. Big and tough and confident. Though a bruiser in the battlefield, it often spends its time at home simply vibing peacefully.
This line does well on standard crustacean pokemon kibble. Care rating: Green
Training: Training a wimpod is a tricky business. Not because they're stupid or aggressive, but because they'll recall into their pokeball at the first sign of trouble. Battling can cause them anxiety. Wimpod trainers often get them to practice using dummies.
Golisopod, on the other hand, are excellent fighters and are more than willing to learn, though the habit of recalling to their pokeball is hard to break. Golisopod, however, seem to use this as a chance to catch their breath, and come out swinging harder than ever. Training rating: Green
Safety: Wimpod have few defences beyond vomiting a poisonous foam when startled. This foam is bitter and nasty tasting, but otherwise holds few risks unless it gets in the eyes. If it does, wash them out with clean water and contact a poisons hotline.
Golisopod don't seem to retain that poison spit, but have sharp edges and are quite bulky. However, they are quite calm and placid at home, and seem to have good spatial awareness.
This line is a good one for teaching children how to care for nervous pokemon, and gets on well with the quieter child. Safety rating: Green
Overall ranking. A pokemon that flourishes with gentle care, this is an excellent bug type pokemon.
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quillpokebiology · 1 year
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Hi! do you know any interesting facts about Lurantis?
I do! I really like them, and while it's not a lurantis, my friend has a fomantis named Snapdragon who I absolutely love.
Lurantis Facts
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-The scientific name for Lurantis is "Montoludia sicula" which translates to "Sickle soothsayer-actress"
-When lurantis were first discovered, there was a lot of controversy on why they should be classified as a bug type. But further research shows that it isn’t bugs pretending to be plants; it’s plants pretending to be bugs
-Scientists theorize that the reason lurantis became predators was because they weren’t getting enough sunlight at some point in history
-As ambush predators, lurantis are able to sit in an area for days without the need of sunlight or food; waiting for their next prey
-The Alolan saying, “A plant in bug’s silk,” which refers to someone who is pretending to be nice only to betray you, came from lurantis
-Male lurantis are slightly smaller than female luranits
-Newer studies show that ancient lurantis were shown to be grass/poison types. There is still a large debate among that between researchers, though
-Because of the the protectors on its eyes, everything it sees has a red tint
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(Art by Kantarou on Zerochan.net)
-A common misconception is that the lurantis line is related to the leavanny line. This isn't true at all. Its similarities to leavanny is just convergant evolution
-Lurantis have a "flower mode," which is a state they go into when sleeping or going into camaflouge
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(From concept art)
-Female lurantis are more aggressive than male lurantis. It's also one of the few species where the female will fight and compete for males
-They developed the "goggles" on their eyes to protect them from pollen and dust
-They care a lot about their appearance and will spend a lot of time editing it and preening themselves
-Lurantis are good pest controls for unwanted bug types
-Lurantis in Alola tend to be more colorful than the lurantis in any other region because of the amount of sun (the ones in Galar tend to be the dullest)
Care Tips
(For the Anon that asked but I couldn't awnser)
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Lurantis can be a big change from fomantis. They become bigger, require more work, and are more aggressive. But once you get the hang of it and get used to daily routines, it won't be difficult at all!
Lurantis require a lot of sunlight and become wilted and irritable if they don't get enough. Giving them a lot of time outside where they have open sunlight is highly recommended. A good space for them would be an open field with a small pond or fountain to play in and bathe themselves.
If your lurantis is female, it can be harder to train them since they're more stubborn and aggressive. Trying to bond with them in activities they like or trying to understand why they won't listen (like why they use Solar beam instead of sword dance as an example). They're smart, and will find a way to communicate these issues with you.
They enjoy more aggressive playtime. Toys like the feather toys in Galar or tug of war would be games and toys they really enjoy.
A thing to look out for would be their sharp toe tips and the sharp tips at the end of their leaves. They can be as dangerous as knives, and you can get hurt if you touch them. Plus, they can scratch your walls and furniture
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4ster-bl4ster · 4 days
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Hey to all of the shelters and biologists. I have a quick question about a pokémon I have in my care. (I think I've sent a question to someone already but I'm gonna make a post anyways for more opinions)
So, my family lives in Sinnoh and I'm from Galar for context. I go to school in Paldea.
My family has a Garchomp that my great grandfather raised, and after his passing it was decided that the pokémon would be allowed to choose their new trainer. On my most recent visit to Sinnoh, I actually met the big guy and we got along well.
Long story short, I'm now this big guy's new trainer. The Garchomp's name is Emperor so I'm gonna call him that from now on.
I have a lot of experience with dragon type pokémon, so caring for a Garchomp isn't gonna need too much new items, but the thing is, Emperor is REALLY big.
Like, two or three times the size of a regular Garchomp.
I don't know if this is a normal thing among Sinnohan Garchomp, and researching online isn't giving me much to go off of. Although Emperor has a clean bill of health (and was deemed battle-ready) I'm not having him participate in any battles.
So my question is does anyone know why Emperor is so large? And does that pose any health risks that I should look out for.
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plasmaapologist · 10 months
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hi miss tula. my aunt got me first pokemon recently. it is eevee! since eevee not in unova parents dont know what to do with it. since you are nurse do you have tip? sorry bad galarian
hello, anon! eevee makes a wonderful first partner, and they're much more common in unova than one would think. if you live somewhere rural though i definitely understand that you wouldn't know much about them since they're most common in cities here!
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the first thing to know about owning an eevee is that they can not stay an eevee forever. due to their unstable genetics, an eevee that does not evolve will eventually become sick, though the amount of time this takes depends on the particular eevee. i recommend choosing the eeveelution you want as soon as you can, so eevee can evolve as soon as it's ready! i personally believe leafeon is the easiest to care for, but you'll get a different opinion from everyone.
now that that's out of the way, you'll likely have a good few years with your eevee as an eevee! (i've seen an eevee make it to 12 without suffering any illness from not evolving).
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the good news is, eevee are very easy to care for! they're omnivores that can eat most dry and wet pokemon foods without need for any additional nutrition. however, it's important to note that, like many canine and feline pokemon (scientists are still arguing which one eeevee is), eevee can't eat foods like chocolate, grapes or onions.
eevee will probably enjoy the occasional addition of fruits, vegetables, and berries into their diet! be careful with the amount, as too much can give them tummy problems, and especially with fruit and some berries, you dont want to give them too much sugar.
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eevee are typically very affectionate pokemon that will greatly enjoy snuggles and playtime. dont get too offended if your eevee seems a little distant: just like humans, some eevee aren't as big on being touched. if this is the case, you'll certainly find eevee has their own ways of showing affection!
eevee are very energetic, and even the laziest among them needs a good bit of playtime. since you're in unova, i can recommend buying toys designed for either lilipup or purrloin; it's a bit of a gamble which one eevee will lean twoards.
lastly, pay attention to their habits and hobbies! its one of the best ways to choose an evolution your friend will be the happiest with. for example, an eevee who loves swimming will probably thrive as a vaporeon, but an eevee that enjoys being up late at night probably wouldnt be very happy as an espeon, ect ect. i also can't recommend glaceon if you live in a warmer climate.
eevees' loveable nature makes them a great first partner and pet pokemon; they're popular for a reason! heres to many years of fun with your new best friend!
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zygarde-the-guardian · 7 months
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(@protosnom)
(cc ^))_)__\ hello!
(cc *))_)__\ i was wondering if there’s anything ive gotta look out for if i evolve into a frosmoth. Got any tips in case that happens?
Well, I'd make sure you find a cool place to stay during the day. Frosmoth are much more nocturnal than snom, and the new wings would be highly delicate. You should also keep in mind that, as with all "moth" pokemon, that bits of your wings will shed. This isn't a bad thing, but, as you don't completely have instincts on your side, you should keep it in mind.
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floaroma-sanctuary · 10 months
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Pokémon Care: Disabilities
I have received inquiries in the past about if the Sanctuary accepts disabled Pokémon and if we adopt them into homes. The answer to both is YES. ALL Pokémon are welcome at Floaroma Sanctuary, no matter their background. I, myself, have two disabled Pokémon that I love and care for very deeply. I have several years of experience in the care of wide ranges of disabilities in Pokémon as it’s one of the specializations of my time as a Professor’s Assistant. The Sanctuary absolutely takes in disabled Pokémon. I will never turn away a Pokémon.
On the adoption of disabled Pokémon, it is entirely on a case by case basis. Every Pokémon deserves only the best home, and I will hold off on an adoption if a person doesn’t have the resources to continue the care for a Pokémon, experience with certain difficult disabilities, or the wrong environment for the Pokémon they want. I am, however, more than happy to teach someone the best way to care for their Pokémon and their unique needs. Many adopters will visit the Sanctuary for a few months in order to adopt one of our disabled Pokémon, learn about them and their needs, and grow a relationship of trust and friendship.
One of the things I would like to add is that much of our funds go into the expensive care for any disabled Pokémon in our care. It is not cheap to run the Sanctuary by any means. So, whenever we are doing a fundraiser, just know that your money is going straight to the care for all of the Pokémon here, but especially to our disabled Pokémon! The money provides surgeries, medications, mobility devices, prosthetics, and anything else they may need during their stay with us.
If you’d like to learn more, I host classes and adoption counseling on a request basis. Please submit any inquiries to this blog!
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bills-pokedex · 1 year
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What effect does being in a pokeball have on a pokemon's sleep patterns? Is it unhealthy to be in there for too long without getting any 'real' rest? (I feel like you'd be uniquely qualified to answer this, except that I'm not sure you know what a healthy sleep schedule is.)
Oh, there's no need to worry, dear reader. A pokémon's—
Wait a second, my sleep schedule is perfectly healthy!
Edit: At the insistence of my editor, the rest of this answer:
A pokémon's basic life functions are suspended while in their pure energy/data state. I know that sounds terrible, but putting it another way, a poké ball is more or less a miniature chamber that puts a pokémon in suspended animation. While they can still sense the outside world in this state, their need to sleep is put on hold while they're in their poké balls. Once released, all of their biological cycles resume exactly where they've left off, so it's almost as if they hadn't been in a poké ball at all.
The only detriment to being in a ball has to do with time. While what I've said about a pokémon being able to sense the outside world while in their poké balls still holds true, resuming your life cycles at the wrong time can be disorienting, mildly put. So for example, if your body still thinks it's noon because you went into a poké ball at noon, but it's actually midnight, getting to sleep can be a bit of a challenge. Luckily, a lot of trainers understand this and will structure a pokémon's day around this. Likewise, most pokémon have their sleep cycles synced with the amount of light they receive and won't even encounter this problem in the first place.
It's when you aren't a creature that has either luxury that it becomes a problem. A human with enough pokémon DNA to experiment with a poké ball, for example.
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My Chandelure (we are taking a break from the competitive scene) has been finding Litwicks elsewhere and bringing them home - I am not against Litwicks but I am not certain I can feed them all. Any tips on safely providing them with enough life force? If I find no way to tend to them, I am considering calling a friend ranger, she said she will be able to look into matters starting next week.
there's no way you as one person can safely provide multiple litwick on top of providing your chandelure with the life energy she needs. this is absolutely a moment to call the rangers.
the bigger issue here is that you're apparently allowing your chandelure to wander around unattended, since i'm not sure how else she would be finding random wild pokemon to bring to you. that's irresponsible enough as it is, but it's especially so when 1. she is a ghost type, and some people are afraid enough of ghost types to attack them unprompted and 2. she feeds off of life energy and could very well attempt to feed off of a stranger, which could result in her being seized from you.
if i'm reading this scenario correctly, you need to keep a better eye on your chandelure, and you certainly don't need to be keeping wild litwick around.
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pokecare · 5 months
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Pokemon "national dexes" are just the pokemon that naturally live in the region (even if they've been introduced from other regions/are invasive). Pokemon not in the dex can still be brought to other regions as partner Pokemon or as part of a team, they don't take your Pokemon away. You just can't catch them in the wild and Pokemon that aren't in the national dex are disqualified from official gym challenges and other events. Though a lot of gym leaders are cool with having a battle with non-regional pokemon for fun, you can't earn a badge with them.
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If you have a Trubbish, you can feed them your excess plastic bags and un-recyclable materials. It’s good for the environment, and a fun snack for Trubbish!
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cunk-on-poke-earth · 4 months
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So, why do some Pokemon only evolve with friendship? You'd think if they were happy, they'd want to stay the same?
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pokemoncaretips · 9 months
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Safe pruning for grass types.
Like any living organism, both plants and plant based pokemon can get ill. Leaf rot, blight, mildew, all of these and more can affect your pokemon. The best and safest way to head off illnesses at the pass is to prune damaged leaves and twigs before they can act as entry points for bacteria and fungi. Though serious illnesses are best seen by a medical professional, I can offer some preventative measures to help. For all of these categories, you should be seeking medical advice as well.
(Disclaimer: I am not a medical professional.)
Petals. Petals are often susceptible to frostbite. Though a potion quickly after a battle helps with ice type attack wounds, weather happens and many a grass type has been caught out in a sudden cold snap long enough for damage to take hold. Excessive moisture or heat can also caught rot on petals.
Signs to watch for: Blackened and withered ends. Browning and wilt along the edges of the petal. A slimy texture and sheen forming. Discolouration in general.
Prevention: Thankfully, petals tend to be more for decoration and rarely have nerve endings. (The bulbasaur line has. Petal damage should be seen by a professional in their case.) Removing the petal entirely can prevent some illnesses, though it may give the pokemon a lopsided appearance until it grows back. Holding your pokemon securely, grasp the petal firmly near the base and give a firm, sharp tug. Too little force may break the petal off near the base and provide a new entry point for rot. Too much force can hurt your pokemon. Once the affected petals are removed, apply a potion and give your pokemon plenty of sun.
If the petals continue to wither, there may be underlying health issues. Consult a professional.
Leaves. Leaves work somewhat differently on pokemon than they do on plants, with some pokemon like leafeon able to regrow damaged leaf tissue. The main rule is that the veins on the leaf tend to contain nerve endings, while the leaf tissue itself doesn't. This means for small localized damage, its possible to keep the main leaf and just remove the problem area, which is vital for pokemon such as chikorita who only have the one leaf available.
Signs to watch for: Withering. Discoloured spots. Fuzzy looking patches. Browning or blackening. Yellowing. A dry, crumbly texture, or a damp, slimy one.
Prevention: A very sharp knife like a box cutter or exacto knife is your friend here, allowing for precise trimming. This knife should be sterilized carefully first. If the pokemon is small enough, hold it firmly to your body, or find someone to help. Larger pokemon may need to be temporarily paralyzed. Avoiding veins if possible, trim away the damaged portion. If the vein is damaged or rotted, it may have already died and thus lack nerve endings. "The fingernail check" is most often used by grass type trainers. Press a fingernail carefully into the vein. If the pokemon flinches, the vein is still salvageable. If it offers no reaction, that leaf vein is dead and must be trimmed as well.
If the entire leaf is withered, it will have to go. A truly dead one can be tugged off easily. Apply a gentle tug. If it breaks off with no resistance, it was dead. If it is heavily damaged but still attached at the base, it will need to be pruned. This is uncomfortable for the pokemon but essential for its health. Talk softly and soothingly. Though few pokemon can understand people, they do understand emotions. Using a sharp, sterilized pair of secateurs, quickly trim the leaf as close to the body as is safe. I recommend showing your pokemon the leaf afterwards to observe. Dead or diseased foliage can be uncomfortable, and removing it will often give instant relief after the short sting. Seeing the painful part removed will go a long way to calming them down.
As photosynthesis is often their main source of nutrition, a sun lamp or slightly richer mulch should be provided to make up for the lost leaves until they grow back.
Symptoms like yellowing or blighted leaves could indicate deeper issues. Save the leaves and take them to a pokecentre for advice. Some are caused by disease. Others can be caused by a deficiency or heavy pest load.
Twig and branches. A fully withered branch can often be a bad sign. And as these are bigger parts, tending to them can be complicated.
Signs to watch for: Cankers and galls. Dead branches. Blackening or withering of buds.
Prevention: The torterra is one of the few pokemon where treating damaged branches is painless and relatively easy if you know what you're doing. Though the tree is vital for its health, it isn't connected to any nerves, and can thus be safely pruned. Otherwise, unless its a small twig that can be quickly pruned, its safer to get a medical professional in to check.
When trimming branches, try not to cut flush to the body of the tree. This can damage the branch collar, leaving the tree open to pathogens.
If using a pruning saw, make a cut on the underside of the branch first to prevent bark tearing.
Damage to branches is a serious sign of ill health. This needs to be checked out immediately. Take pictures before you prune the affected branch, and take them and the branch with you to the pokecentre.
Roots. Roots should not be touched by someone without specialized training. Take your pokemon to a specialist immediately.
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