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Dior Mamianqun Controversy

I received the following message via chat from a follower, that I would like to share here:

Hi, 小紫, do you know that Dior appropriates the modernized mamianqun designed by some hanfu brands in china? link of discussion about Dior 2022 A/W show on weibo: https://weibo.com/6323095999/LChcJyPTa?refer_flag=1001030103_&type=repost#_rnd1657858224778 , I think Dior indeed directly referenced the structure of how it’s pleated and inner cutouts of mamianqun which has a long history dated back to ming dynasty and influenced the shape of qing dynasty skirts as well, it is sussy, look how the DIOR model turned around when the skirt spread to reveal the split style, this is indeed the unique inner structure of mamianqun, a more rigorous examination requires DIOR to show the flat design, but Dior is not responding, it claims on the official website that this is their exclusive style launched this year, yet the same style of mamianqun has been prevalent among young people in China for several years, there are several taobao stores making exactly this kind of modernized mamianqun since 2018 or even early (metal leather buckle belt + fabric suitable for autumn and winter + long skirts), such as 四时景, 你好美荔, etc., I don’t know how to make it an anonymous ask for you to post my question but I would like to listen to your and other followers’ comments on this, thank you 小紫(also feel totally free not to post this one, it’s your blog and you make the call ❤️

Here is a screenshot of Dior’s official shop with the skirt in question: 

And here are screenshots of the skirt being displayed on the runway:

Although I am not an expert on tailoring, it does look extremely similar to a Chinese mamianqun/马面裙 (horse-face skirt). Below is an actual modern mamianqun from hanfu brand 你好美荔’s 2018 collection, for comparison:

And here’s a reference sheet on Ming dynasty mamianqun history & construction:

Below is a summary of key points of Chinese netizens’ comments on Weibo:

Based on tailoring and construction, Dior took direct reference from mamianqun for this skirt

However, this is not necessarily “wrong” in and of itself. After all, fashion brands take inspiration from different cultures all the time

What IS wrong, and what is leading to the backlash from Chinese netizens, is that Dior is claiming that the skirt uses an “iconic Dior silhouette” (标志性的Dior廓形) and is a “completely new…fashion item” (全新的优雅时尚单品). See below for screenshot of the item description on their shop, using these exact words:

Personally, I agree with all of the above points. The act of a Western fashion house such as Dior taking inspiration from (or directly using) sartorial styles from other cultures is not new. It is also, in my opinion, not necessarily wrong - as long as due credit is given to the culture(s) that served as a reference for the styles. I do not believe that a historic fashion house like Dior is unaware of the existence of mamianqun. After all, even Princess Diana wore a Qing dynasty-style mamianqun before, in 1981 (x): 

Claiming that the style is totally original and unique to Dior, even an “iconic silhouette” of the brand, is disingenuous in the extreme and deserves to be called out. 

I am interested in hearing what my followers think about this. Especially tagging @fouryearsofshades​ and @audreydoeskaren who are knowledgeable about mamianqun construction and history. What do you all think?

#hanfu #dior #mamianqun #chinese fashion #chinese culture #cultural apropriation #fashion

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REBLOG DIS

Tips That Can Save Your Kid’s Life.

#kids #what to teach your kids #being safe

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#power outage #candles

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Happy birthday, Lan Wangji!

Now go celebrate with your husband.

#lan wangji #Mdzs #mdzs lan zhan #mdzs lan wangji #birthday

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Feng Xin and Fu Yao lockscreens. Like if save. Do not repost.

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Tian Guan Ci Fu lockscreens. Like if you sav. Plz do not repost.

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Even more!!! like if you save. Plz don't repost.

#The Untamed #the untamed wallpaper #Mdzs #nie huaisang #nie mingjue #jin guangyao #lan xichen #jin zixuan

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I watched Tenet last night.

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Okay, I'm posting something really out of character today. Episode 32 of Hikaru no Go (the live action) is out today, and Sai disappeared. I didn't think I would cry (at least not this hard), but I did.

#Hikaru no go #sai #chu ying #qi hun drama #Hikaru no go drama

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Could you do a breakdown of the introverted abs extroverted versions of each sign?

(disclaimer: not all of this should be taken seriously)

ARIES

extrovert // talkative, always smiling, partyhopping every night, dresses colorfully, COMPETITIVE, kinda mean but hides it well, probably calls themselves a foodie unironically

introvert // only talks to their immediate family, hates people but is always nice to them, cat lover, two-faced, still wants to be popular

TAURUS

extrovert // can talk to anyone, spends all their money on gourmet shit they don’t need, hugs every animal, has too many friends, highkey forgetful

introvert // passive, LAZY, stays in bed 23/6, thinks movie buff is a personality trait, huge music nerd, really caring and kind tbh, imagines themselves to be dr. doolittle and attempts to communicate with every animal

GEMINI

extrovert // communicative, DRAMATIC, tons of acquaintances but hates everybody (and the feeling is mutual), only has 3 real friends, bitchy, bad at keeping secrets, loves art, hoeing

introvert // twitter god, talented but only in strange and kind of useless ways, gets bored really quickly, wants to go home but when they get home just wants to go out, tries to stay healthy but loves their vices, anxious, thinks hella fast

CANCER

extrovert // a spammer irl and on social media, thinks they’re the most interesting person in any room, fundamentally nice but with a shit temper, doesn’t get sick often, gives great advice

introvert // intelligent but can’t focus, has like two (2) friends, loves and hates their mom equally, has hidden talents no one knows about, a good cook

LEO

extrovert // has a total breakdown if they aren’t the center of attention, fast learners but always have one subject they just aren’t good at, overenthusiastic, bossy, loves people but manipulates them, likes to read

introvert // 2 pure 4 this world, loves helping people, SUPPORTIVE, socially anxious but too proud to show it, hides everything from their parents, makes everyone watch their favorite tv shows

VIRGO

extrovert // communicative, organized, a great leader, intelligent af, invented the poker face, ambitious but not power-hungry, achieves things the hard way

introvert // CHAOTIC, thinks everyone hates them, no idea how to communicate properly, intelligent, never takes anyone’s advice

LIBRA

extrovert // always communicating (even when they don’t know what they’re talking about), super sweet, emotional, bad at staying organized, has the best eyebrows, APPEALING, secretly kinky

introvert // loves books and shopping, cat person, believes in soulmates, absent-minded and daydreams a lot, genuine, kind, cries often, forgiving

SCORPIO

extrovert // loves meeting new people, highkey hedonistic and into debauchery, really hot, low self-esteem, loyal to their friends, disorganized

introvert // would die before letting others know how they feel, inappropriate humor, socially awkward, really smart but don’t use their intelligence for important situations

SAGITTARIUS

extrovert // EMOTIONAL AND EVERYONE KNOWS IT, popular, social media gods, loves leading their group of followers – i mean friends, self-centered, thinks they’re always right

introvert // will fight for what they want, intense, scary when mad, can hurt others without meaning to, can also be easily hurt but will never show it, too proud to admit any weakness

CAPRICORN

extrovert // super funny and interesting, speaks their mind, probably weren’t great in school but are very intelligent, daydreams a lot, dark sense of humor, artistic

introvert // has never said a single word to anyone, just waiting for the End, self-centered, doesn’t want to waste time on unimportant conversation with unimportant people, can be really silly, has niche interests, planning for their success

AQUARIUS

extrovert // always partying, popular, in the “scene”, friends with everyone except the people they hate, arrogant, they are aware of this

introvert // epic poker face, sometimes wonder if they’re even human themselves, likes plants, impatient, freaks out if anyone doesn’t like something they’ve done, super nice to everyone, is definitely on tumblr

PISCES

extrovert // GETS. IT. DONE., sets goals and achieves them, VERY emotional, gets cranky fast when things don’t go their way, everything hurts them because they’re sensitive af, always gets revenge, really bad temper

introvert // sensitive af pt 2 but make it chaotic, has no idea what they’re doing but somehow it always works out, seems fragile but are actually super strong, art is their life, talented, has inside jokes with everybody

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Mdzs Wen Qing and Jiang Yanli icons

#Mdzs #Mo Dao Zu Shi #Icons #Wen Qing #Jiang Yanli

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Happy birthday to Zhao Lusi! Happy 22 birthday!

#Zhao lusi #birthday #zhao lusi birthday

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Susanna and the Elders, Restored (Left)

Susanna and the Elders, Restored with X-ray (Right)

Kathleen Gilje, 1998

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Happy birthday to the best uncle - Jiang Cheng!

#Jiang Cheng #Mdzs #The Untamed #Birthday

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The Untamed wallpapers accompanied by Your Throne lockscreens as well. Like if you save. Do not repost.

#Your Throne #The Untamed #Wallpapers #Mdzs

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Happy birthday to the beautiful---Wei Wuxian!!!

#Wei Ying #Wei Wuxian #Birthday #mdzs #The Untamed

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I really don’t know what to say. Just don’t go and kill yourself, people. You’ll regret it at the very last second.

Keep the flame going for those we have lost to suicide.