#in america: a lexicon of fashion

[sansas-amythest-hairnet]

some more met gala designs of mine

Whenever I think of positive things from America my mind goes to our conservation of national parks, this dress is a direct inspiration of The Oxbow.

This one is for *gag* Karl Lagerfelds gala, I noticed he used a lot of scoop necks and tiered skirts so I leaned into the Chanel wedding dress look along with a hat, gloves, and pearls. Karl hated pink so I used pink

And now we have gilded glamour, I was inspired by the massive masquerade balls thrown at the time. I have a pigeon breast corset, a narrow skirt, and the peacock overskirt inspired by bustles.

#met gala #in America: a lexicon of fashion #the gilded age #gilded glamour #karl lagerfeld #chanel #the oxbow #thomas cole

[artruby]

In America: A Lexicon of Fashion, at The Costume Institute at The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Photos: Art Ruby

#In America: A Lexicon of Fashion #fashion #art #The Metropolitan Museum of Art #The Met Museum #design

[untethered-days]

#fashion #In America: A Lexicon of Fashion #design #details #inspiration #style #fashion collection #style inspo #art #dress

[fashionbooksmilano]

In America

A Lexicon of Fashion

Andrew Bolton and Amanda Garfinkel with Jessica Regan and Stephanie Kramer   Photographs by Amma-Marie Kellen

The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York 2022, 257 pages, Hardcover,    24.77 x  31.12 cm, ISBN  978-1588397348

euro 53,00

email if you want to buy [email protected]

A new glossary of American fashion explores the expressive qualities of works by pioneering designers, who established the nation’s style, and the up-and-coming designers shaping its future.

In America: A Lexicon of Fashion presents a modern vocabulary of American dress that emphasizes emotions while not discounting the simple, practical, and egalitarian character that has traditionally separated American ready-to-wear from European haute couture. Stunning new photography showcases over 100 garments from the 1940s to the present that offer a timely new perspective on the diverse and multifaceted nature of American fashion.

The catalogue features works that display qualities such as belonging, comfort, desire, exuberance, fellowship, joy, nostalgia, optimism, reverence, spontaneity, strength, and sweetness by well-known designers and emerging creatives, including:

Gilbert #Adrian, Geoffrey Beene, Thom Browne, Bonnie Cashin, Willy Chavarria, Olivia Cheng, Telfar Clemens, #OscardelaRenta, Colm Dillane, #Perry Ellis,        Tremaine Emory, #TomFord, #RudiGernreich, #Halston, Elizabeth Hawes, #CarolinaHerrera, Conner Ives, #CharlesJames, Kerby Jean-Raymond, #DonnaKaran, #CalvinKlein, Michael Kors, #RalphLauren, Vera Maxwell, #ClaireMcCardell,Norman Norell ,Heron Preston, Christopher John Rogers, Raul Solís, Hillary Taymour, #DianevonFurstenberg, Vera Wang

orders to:     [email protected]

twitter:                @fashionbooksmi

flickr:                  fashionbooksmilano

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tumblr:                fashionbooksmilano

03/02/22

#In America #Lexicon of fashion #fashion Exhibition Catalogue #Metropolitan Museum of Art New York 2022 #american fashion #fashion books #fashionbooksmilano

[batmanbeyondrocks]

Fredrik Robertsson wearing a custom design by Iris van Herpen

#“In America: A Lexicon of Fashion” #Jared Leto #Fredrik Robertsson #It's Fredrik Robertsson Not Jared Leto #Iris van Herpen #Fashion #Haute Couture #Art of Haute Couture #Gilded Age #Met Gala theme #2022 Meta Gala

[erelavent]

i assumed he was there for the met gala

Oh shit, you're right. I literally erased that from my mind because I am not at all excited to see it 😮‍💨 Hopefully, this year is less disappointing than last year and everyone tries to stay on theme.

#America: a lexicon of fashion Part 2 #f1 #lewis hamilton #formula 1

[zendeyas]

Imaan Hammam wearing VERSACE – Met Gala (2021) In America: A Lexicon of Fashion

#imaan hammam #fashion #versace #met gala #red carpet

[modelsof-color]

Imaan Hammam at The 2021 Met Gala Celebrating In America: A Lexicon Of Fashion

#imaan hammam

[communistkenobi]

I think when people describe dark hallways or all-grey office cubicles as “liminal,” they’re using it as a synonym for creepy, which is not really accurate. What’s being reached for is a sense of dislocation, of being in a place that is not meant for you or is otherwise hostile to you in some way. “Liminal” is limited in its ability to describe those feelings, because the word is typically meant to refer to a place that exists only to get you somewhere else (like an airport, for example, or an interstate highway). “Liminal” isn’t synonymous with “a place of horror,” but I think it’s become that in the tumblr lexicon.

I think a much more robust term for what people are trying to describe is ontological (in)security. Ontological security in geographic scholarship means “a confidence that the world exists as it appears to be.” To give a very basic example, there are handles on doors because the function of a door is to act as a gateway to another space, and the handle is there to open that gateway. You trust that doors with handles are meant to be open and stepped through, and you also trust that door handles will always be placed at a standing person’s waist height - if you’ve ever seen a character try to open a door that leads nowhere in a story, it’s playing with your ontological security. Likewise, you see a flight of stairs and understand implicitly that it exists to facilitate pedestrian traffic to and from a specific place. It’s not a place to have a party with your friends, and you wouldn’t think to go to a stairwell to socialise.

To be ontologically insecure, on the other hand, is to exist in a place that is built for purposes that are not available to you. This is most commonly used in disability scholarship to refer to inaccessible entrances or stairwells - these things exist for able-bodied people only, and the structure of the built environment is now acting as a mechanism to divide people into groups who can use the space and groups who cannot. This is part of the way that ableism essentialises disability, which is then reproduced in the built environment - urban structures are taken as neutral, and if you can’t navigate them effectively, something is wrong with you individually (which of course is not true).

But this idea can be deployed for a variety of contexts - suburbs once built for the wealthy car-driving middle class typically do not have sidewalks in them. And now in many places in North America, suburbs are being inhabited by much poorer families (who are much less likely to own a vehicle), who are being driven out of the city core because now that same wealthy middle class has decided a condo is more fashionable than a detached house. This leaves people to live in places that aren’t built “for them,” to walk in the middle of roads or on lawns because there’s no space for them to walk, forcing them into hostile situations to either be hit by cars or yelled at by neighbours for walking on their grass. These spaces produce ontological insecurity, a sense that you are inhabiting a place that is not meant for you, and because of this you are frequently made less safe as a result.

This is where the critique that cities are structurally ableist, or racist, or misogynistic comes from. Urban environments are usually built by the ruling class, whose interests and aesthetic sensibilities get reproduced in the roads they build and houses they erect, and if you don’t happen to fit the profile of the ruling class (ie most people), some parts of a city are always going to be less safe for you. This is why in extremely spread-out, low density cities (LA for example), public transit is difficult to implement on a structural level (on top of all the political pushback), because these spaces are structured in such a way to be hostile to certain modes of travel or behaviour (eg any mode of transit that isn’t a car). They are built for a specific ideal archetype of person, and if you don’t fit into that, you’re much less safe and much less secure.

So if you want to use this in fantasy settings or horror or whatever, you need to approach the built environment as a historical process the same way that a government or law is. Office spaces are not “liminal,” but they can be sites of horror because their physical structure compels certain modes of social behaviour, and trying to work against that grain can make you feel “out of place” - i.e., ontologically insecure.

#geography #book club #slightly edited the definition #since ontological security means something different in geog than it does in other academic spheres

[lacetulle]

What was your favorite met gala gown?

This is a tough question and my answer is going to be a long one. Mostly because this was the second part of a two-parter exhibition. In America: A Lexicon of Fashion was the exhibit in September last year, and that particular gala seemed very boring. There wasn't a specific theme other than Americana, so it was underwhelming since it encompassed such a broad amount of time. So when they announced that this gala had a 'Gilded Glamour' theme, I was thrilled that they were trying to hone in on a specific time period. Unfortunately, they announced it not even a month ago. The amount of time that goes into planning these looks spans well beyond a month, so while I think the theme was grossly ignored, the theme announcement came way too late for designers and celebrities.

Also, fashion designers are who truly get the invites to the gala. Vogue does invite a handful of celebrities and they get to work with whatever designer they want, but when we see a crowd of celebrities with Moschino or Louis Vuitton or Prabal Gurung...the designers choose what the celebrity wears. So unless you're at a certain level of star power, sometimes you just get to show up and look out of place (I'm looking at you, Michael Kors and LV girls) because the designer gets to choose. With that said, here is my favorite. And some honorable mentions.

Blake Lively is my winner. I loved the homage to the Statue of Liberty and its patina effect. I actually didn't really like it when I first saw her on the carpet...the metallic bow gave me more of an '80s vibe. But after her reveal and the bow unfurled...I loved it. The tiara, the gloves, the designs on the dress. I loved it all and seemed like a love note to New York City. Blake is one of the ones who gets to envision an idea and talk to a designer and make it come to life. She really did have a big hand in designing this with Versace and you can tell by the amount of pride she had when breaking the dress elements down. And bonus points: the Statue of Liberty arrived in 1885, right in the middle of the gilded age time period.

Billie Eilish is my runner up. She took the theme to heart. I love that she asked Gucci to use upcycled materials. I don't have anything else to add because she's the only one who literally went with the theme and I applaud her.

Chloe Grace Moretz in Louis Vuitton. Even though I didn't like the LV girls as a whole, Chloe is the exception for me. I loved the nod to men's fashion in the gilded age and I wished more men actually went this route.

Rosalía in Givenchy. The glasses annoyed me. But I do love the dress. The nod to gigot sleeves are probably what make the look for me.

I also really loved Carey Mulligan's Schiaparelli dress. I think she flew under the radar because while the dress might be safe, I do love the nod to gilded equaling gold and gilded aged fashion. And while I'm surprised at how tame it is, considering Schiaparelli's looks can be way out there, I think it was a lovely mixture of gilded age fashion in a modern look.

And finally, the Cinderella story of the night: Genesis Suero wearing Lucia Rodriguez. Flawless. The dress fit the theme. And like so many people who stopped reading the theme after the word 'gilded' and just said, GOLD EVERYTHING...Genesis had a 2-for-1. A gorgeous golden gilded age dress.

I had high hopes for this gala and the theme, since historical shows are so popular right now. And I was even willing to overlook people disregarding the era of the theme and thinking it just meant they had to be dripping in gold. But I could not believe the amount of people who thought this theme included the roaring '20s or the golden age of Hollywood. Once again, the best Met Gala by far, was 2018's Heavenly Bodies, and I'm disappointed that more people didn't show up with high neck, bustles, gloves, and lace.

Thanks for asking! Sorry this turned into a novel. I guess I'm very passionate about the Met Gala.

#met gala #best dressed #met gala 2022 #ask me anything

[themakeupbrush]

List of Met Galas since 2001

I've gotten a few asks for a list of Met Galas. Technically, the gala has existed since 1948, and been themed since 1973, but I started at 2001 to keep it short (there was no gala in 2000 apparently). If you're interested in every theme that's ever existed, there's a chart on Wikipedia.

Most lists online start somewhere around 2011-2013, since it wasn't covered by the press the same way before then.

2001 Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years

Co-chairs: Anna Wintour, Christina and Lindsay Owen-Jones, Annette and Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera Caroline Kennedy and Edwin A. Schlossberg

Sponsor: L'Oreal

2003 Goddess: The Classical Mode

Co-chairs: Anna Wintour, Tom Ford, Nicole Kidman

Sponsor: Gucci

2004 Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in the 18th Century

Co-chairs: Anna Wintour, Renée Zellweger, Lawrence Stroll, Silas Chou, Edgar Bronfman Jr. Jacob Rothschild, Jayne Wrightsman

Sponsor: Asprey

2005 The House of Chanel

Co-chairs: Anna Wintour, Karl Lagerfeld, Nicole Kidman Caroline, Princess of Hanover

Sponsor: Chanel

2006 AngloMania: Tradition and Transgression in British Fashion

Co-chairs: Anna Wintour, Christopher Bailey, Sienna Miller Rose Marie Bravo, The Duke of Devonshire

Sponsor: Burberry

2007 Poiret: King of Fashion

Co-chairs: Anna Wintour, Cate Blanchett, Nicolas Ghesquière François-Henri Pinault

Sponsor: Balenciaga

2008 Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy

Co-chairs: Anna Wintour, George Clooney, Julia Roberts, Giorgio Armani

Sponsor: Giorgio Armani

2009 The Model As Muse: Embodying Fashion

Co-chairs: Anna Wintour, Kate Moss, Justin Timberlake Marc Jacobs

Sponsor: Marc Jacobs

Ticket Price: $7,500

2010 American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity

Co-chairs: Anna Wintour, Oprah Winfrey, Patrick Robinson

Sponsor: Gap

2011 Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty

Co-chairs: Anna Wintour, Colin Firth, Stella McCartney François-Henri Pinault and Salma Hayek

Sponsor: Alexander McQueen

2012 Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations

Co-chairs: Anna Wintour, Carey Mulligan, Miuccia Prada, Jeff Bezos

Sponsor: Amazon

2013 Punk: Chaos to Couture

Co-chairs: Anna Wintour, Rooney Mara, Lauren Santo Domingo, Riccardo Tisci Beyoncé

Sponsor: Moda Operandi

Ticket Price: $15,000

2014 Charles James: Beyond Fashion

Co-chairs: Aerin Lauder, Anna Wintour, Bradley Cooper, Oscar de la Renta, Sarah Jessica Parker, Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch

Sponsor: AERIN

Ticket Price: $25,000

Theme Announcement: September 4th, 2013

2015 China: Through the Looking Glass

Co-chairs: Anna Wintour, Jennifer Lawrence, Gong Li, Marissa Mayer, Wendi Murdoch, Silas Chou

Sponsor: Yahoo

Ticket Price: $25,000

Theme Announcement: September 11th, 2014

2016 Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology

Co-chairs: Anna Wintour, Taylor Swift, Idris Elba, Jonathan Ive Nicolas Ghesquière, Karl Lagerfeld, Miuccia Prada

Sponsor: Apple

Ticket Price: $30,000

Theme Announcement: October 13th, 2015

2017 Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between

Co-chairs: Anna Wintour, Gisele Bündchen and Tom Brady, Katy Perry, Pharrell Williams, Rei Kawakubo

Sponsor: Apple, Condé Nast, Farfetch, H&M, Maison Valentino

Ticket Price: $30,000

Theme Announcement: October 21st, 2016

2018 Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination

Co-chairs: Anna Wintour, Rihanna, Amal Clooney, Donatella Versace Christine and Stephen A. Schwarzman

Sponsors: Christine and Stephen A. Schwarzman, Versace

Ticket Price: $30,000

Theme Announcement: November 8th, 2017 (currently the latest they've announced the theme)

2019 Camp: Notes on Fashion

Co-chairs: Anna Wintour, Lady Gaga, Harry Styles, Serena Williams, Alessandro Michele

Sponsor: Gucci

Ticket Price: $35,000

Theme Announcement: October 9th, 2018

Planned for May 4, 2020 (canceled) About Time: Fashion and Duration

Co-chairs: Anna Wintour, Meryl Streep, Emma Stone, Lin-Manuel Miranda, Nicolas Ghesquière

Sponsor: Louis Vuitton

September 2021 In America: A Lexicon of Fashion

Co-chairs: Timothée Chalamet, Billie Eilish, Amanda Gorman, Naomi Osaka, Tom Ford, Adam Mosseri, Anna Wintour

Sponsor: Instagram

Ticket Price: $35,000

2022 In America: An Anthology of Fashion

Co-chairs: Blake Lively and Ryan Reynolds, Lin-Manuel Miranda, Regina King, Tom Ford, Adam Mosseri, Anna Wintour

Sponsor: Instagram

Ticket Price: $35,000

2023 Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty

Co-chairs: Anna Wintour, Dua Lipa, Michaela Coel, Penélope Cruz, Roger Federer

Sponsors: Chanel, Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld (brand)

Ticket Price: $50,000 (most expensive to date)

Theme Announcement: September 30th, 2022

#met gala #long post #im being generous on when more media outlets started covering the met gala heavily #many only include the past few years

[world-of-celebs]

Rose Leslie attends The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute benefit gala celebrating the opening of the "In America: A Lexicon of Fashion" exhibition on Monday, Sept. 13, 2021, in New York.

#rose leslie #gorgeous redhead #met gala #2021 #new york #beauty #british celebrities #actress

[untethered-days]

#fashion #In America: A Lexicon of Fashion #design #details #inspiration #style #fashion collection #style inspo #dress #art

[fashionsfromhistory]

Ensemble

Ralph Lauren

Fall/Winter 1982-1983

NOSTALGIA 1. A wistful or sentimental yearning for a return to or the return of some real or romanticized period of the past: For his autumn/winter 1982–83 collection, Ralph Lauren referenced American folk art and crafts. Nineteenth-century needlework samplers, which often featured the letters of the alphabet and the motif of the home, inspired the design of this hand-knit sweater. Lauren’s use of antique patchwork quilts to construct the accompanying skirt reflects his appreciation for handwork. Speaking to a journalist in 1982 Lauren said, "Folk art, for me, represents the integrity that is America."

The MET; Image via W Magazine

Currently on view: In America: A Lexicon of Fashion

#sweater #skirt #ralph lauren #1980s #vintage fashion #fashion history #cotton #linen #wool #brown #quilt #20th century #united states #the met #popular

[oliviarsource]

September 13, 2021 in New York City, Met Gala Celebrating In America: A Lexicon Of Fashion. (inside)

#olivia rodrigo #thequeensofbeauty #wonderfulwomendaily #glamoroussource #blogmusicdaily #dailycelebs #dailywomanedit #dailywomansource #dailywomen #dailymusicqueens #dailyolivia #femalestunning #femalegallery #femaledaily #flawlessbeautyqueens #flawlesscelebs #flawlesswomen #flawlessfemale #celebs #music #met gala 2021 #met gala #orodrigoedit #oliviarodrigoedit #gaylivia

[lungsmp3]

you can view the rest of the polls here

#poll #met gala #met gala polls