#SkincareSunday: A total beginner’s guide to skincare
If you’re reading this, you may be feeling a little lost in the terminology and seeming complexity of the world of skincare. Fear not, I’m here to let you in on a secret: it can be as simple or as complicated as you want it to be! I’m going to cover the basic info you need to get started here, but you can always go on to browse my blog or send me a question for any specific clarifications you need.
In this post:
Q&A: the basic information
Actives: an ingredient glossary
Products: building a routine
Tips: from a veteran to a newbie
——— Q&A: the basic information
Q: Does everyone need skincare?
A: Yes, at a very basic level, everyone should take care of their skin to ensure its health, now as well as many years in the future.
Q: What are the non-negotiables in a routine?
A: In the morning, you can do as little as just applying sunscreen. in the evening, cleanse and moisturize. If you don’t want to, you need not complicate it any further.
Q: I hate sunscreen. Do I really need to wear it?
A: Yes.
Q: What if I have specific skin issues I want to fix?
A: Then let me direct you to this post. The first step of skincare is understanding your skin: its levels of oil (whether you are oily, dry or combination) and hydration (whether you are dehydrated), as well as more particular concerns, like hyperpigmentation (dark areas — sometimes called PIH, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation as it can happen as a result of wounds and acne), erythema (sometimes PIE — same deal, but with redness and expanded capillaries), rosacea and redness, acne, premature ageing (fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity and plumpness, sun spots, etc.), dullness, rough texture, etc.
Q: I have this specific skin condition (acne/rosacea/eczema/allergies/...), what should I do?
A: Visit a dermatologist and listen to their advice first and foremost, over that of brands, bloggers, influencers, friends and family, well-meaning though they may be.
Q: Who do I listen to in the skincare world? This blogger is telling me to stop washing my face and use only organic coconut oil...
A: Listen to experts: dermatologists, cosmetic scientists and aestheticians, who are educated in the actual facts behind why stuff works, rather than brands, bloggers and influencers who push their financial agendas via fear-mongering.
Q: Are fragrances/alcohol/parabens/silicones/PEG/whatever toxic? How do I avoid chemicals?
A: No, no, no, no, no, and no. Ingredients get demonized by brands who don’t play fair and use fear-mongering to sell their stuff over their competitors’. The ingredients used in cosmetics (speaking from an EU/USA/Japan regulatory perspective) are very closely regulated and monitored for toxicity. Also, everything is a chemical. A chemical-free product is just a vacuum (no air, because that’s chemicals, too).
Q: I am concerned about my wellbeing and the environment. Should I only buy “clean beauty” products?
A: Clean beauty is a huge scam with cult-like overtones. Here’s some info on that.
——— Actives: an ingredient glossary
“Actives” are the ingredients in a formulation that have an active impact in our skin, beyond just moisturizing or providing the structure of the product. Here’s a handful of ingredients that have a lot of scientific evidence behind them, and which you’ll see mentioned a lot. You don’t need any actives in your routine besides UV filters, but the ones below may help you target specific concerns; remember, though, they can sensitize your skin, so less is more. Click the name to see the corresponding tag in my blog.
Retinol: the gold standard molecule for anti-aging and fighting acne. Its derivatives, retinoids, do the same thing at varying strengths.
Vitamin C: ascorbic acid and its derivatives. A great brightening and anti-hyperpigmentation active, also has antioxidant properties and boosts SPF effectiveness.
Niacinamide: anti-hyperpigmentation, fights acne and excess sebum production.
AHAs: alpha-hydroxy acids, the best known chemical exfoliants. These include lactic, glycolic, mandelic, citric, and tartaric acids, among others. They help prevent clogged pores, flaky skin and dullness.
PHAs: poly-hydroxy acids, like lactobionic acid and gluconolactone, which offer gentler exfoliation than AHAs while also helping with hydration.
Salicylic acid: a.k.a. BHA (beta-hydroxy acid), great for dissolving oil-clogged pores and fighting acne.
Azelaic acid: great for those who struggle with redness, hyperpigmentation and acne.
Ceramides: fatty ingredients that mimic the skin’s natural moisturizer; very good at aiding wound healing, and soothing sensitized or dry skin.
Hyaluronic acid: a humectant, that is, a molecule that holds onto water and keeps the top layers of your skin plump and dewy.
Plant extracts: these have a myriad different claimed functions, and varying levels of evidence backing them up. Not to be confused with essential oils or plant oils.
There are many, many more actives than these, of course. remember, All of the above ingredients work at different concentrations; a 1% retinol is very strong, while a 1% ascorbic acid product may or may not give any results. Also, these are strong: you do not want to use many at once. Choose one or two to start with, and introduce them slowly and gradually into your routine.
——— Products: building a routine
What if you want to experiment beyond the bare-bones routine outlined above? Knowing what each product type does or their order in your routine can be confusing. I’ve listed the product names below in the order they would be applied on the skin and whether it’s better suited for the mornings (AM), nights (PM) or both (AM/PM), but you do not need to use them all (and indeed, you should not). Again: click the links for more info on each.
Makeup remover: micellar water, wipes, biphasic cleansers, etc. can help you dissolve stubborn makeup, although most oil cleansers work just as well. (PM)
Oil cleanser: the first cleanse, to dissolve oil-soluble grease, makeup and sunscreen. Can be an oil or a balm. (PM)
Second cleanser: can be a foam, milk, gel, etc.; this is your standard cleanser (AM/PM)
Wash-off mask: clay masks and masks that come in a pot or tube, with varying purposes, should be applied and then washed off before the rest of your routine. (PM)
Toner: in the west, usually an astringent (drying, causes a pore-shrinking illusion). In asia, a hydrating step meant to prep the skin for actives. Can also contain actives, i.e. exfoliants, etc.; face mists fit into this category. (AM/PM)
Essence: popular in asian cosmetics, in-between the thickness of a serum and a toner. delivers hydration. Often contains fermented ingredients. (AM/PM)
Serum: a thicker liquid product, often in a dropper or pump. Good for delivering actives to the skin, as well as an extra layer of hydration. (AM/PM)
Sheet mask: a way of delivering an essence-like liquid to the skin that should not be rinsed off. (AM/PM)
Eye cream/gel/serum: products for the eye area are formulated specifically to address the delicate skin there. You may or may not need them. (AM/PM)
Moisturizer: can be a gel, gel-cream, or cream, depending on the richness of the texture. (AM/PM) or just (AM) if it contains SPF.
Sleeping pack/overnight mask: a richer moisturizer-like mask with actives meant to sit on your skin overnight and be rinsed off in the morning. (PM)
Spot treatment: localized, intensive treatments for breakouts or blemishes. (PM)
Sunscreen: the final step of every morning routine (AM)
There are more product types; new names keep popping up as brands strive to appear original and innovative, but in all likelihood, new products slot into one of these categories. Please note that some actives, like retinoids, should be used in specific ways that override the order that, say, a serum would be applied in: retinoids must be applied on clean, dry skin, at night.
——— Tips: from a veteran to a newbie
Here are my top skincare tips for someone just starting out.
Keep it as simple as you can. Skin sensitization is real; you don’t want to do more harm than good. Start slow whenever introducing something new.
Patch test new products. This will save you the heartbreak of a full-face breakout.
Shop mindfully and don’t buy into the hype blindly. For the sake of our planet, your wallet and your face, really consider whether a product has a place in your routine before purchasing.
Trust the experts, and do your own research. This is the best way to avoid falling into the trap of misinformation, which is sadly omnipresent even in the skincare community.
Above all else, though, trust your own skin. Something might be perfect on paper, but you skin can still hate it, and vice-versa. Skincare is extremely personal, and oftentimes the only way to know how you’ll react to a certain ingredient/product is to try it.
Take progress photos. Your memory is unreliable, and you’ll want to look back and assess whether your routine is actually working or not.
Don’t be afraid to search my blog and/or send me any questions! Best of luck 🕊
If you’d like to support me and the work I put into these informational posts, you can buy me a coffee on ko-fi ☕️
Related posts:
Myths about green/clean beauty
Is pricier skincare better?
Sunscreen indoors, in winter, etc.: necessary or excessive?
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