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theramseyloft · 3 years

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What to expect when you are expecting a new pigeon:

You’ve decided you want a pet pigeon.

You’ve selected the breed you want, chosen between a cock and hen, got your housing set up, purchased your feed, and found a vet.

You’ve found the rescue or breeder you want a bird from, picked the specific one you want, and your new pigeon is on their way!

If you are picking up your bird:

Pigeons travel best when covered. Being able to see the scenery pass can be overwhelming and disorienting to a bird unaccustomed to car rides (as nearly all are.)

An especially stressed individual may vomit.

If your bird is being shipped:

Your bird has (if packed and prepped correctly) been asleep for the last 2-4 days. The jetlag is real!

Your bird will be disoriented and thirsty, which will show in their poop.

Expect it to be very wet for a least the first three days, but it should firm back up over the first 5-7 days as the bird’s hydration returns to normal.

However they get there, it’s important that the bird go straight into their enclosure and given the opportunity to get their bearings for the first few days.

Pigeons can get overwhelmed in new environments and may not eat or drink until they have checked out every surface they can reach.

If the bird has just spent a few days in a dark box, being active for an extended period before they have had the opportunity to eat or drink can cause them to crash.

So it’s important not to let your new bird out to explore at least until you have witnessed them eat food and drink water.

If you will need your bird to stay in an enclosure at night, start acclimating them to Lights Out by allowing out time initially in the evening.

The length of time a pigeon is out can safely extend to pretty much any amount as they learn the house rules, but starting in the evening makes teaching/learning the Lights Out routine easier on all parties involved.

At any point after dark, you can address your pigeon and say “Lights out!” or “Bed time!” to signify that they will go back into their sleeping enclosure shortly.

Give the bird about 10 seconds to register (and yourself to make sure you know exactly where they are perched), and then repeat “Lights out.” or “Bed time.” as you flip the light switch.

It’s WAY less stressful for a bird to be gently lifted up in the dark and returned to their sleep enclosure than it would be to chase them around to try and herd them into it.

After a few repetitions, your bird should make the association between the verbal forewarning “Lights out!” or “Bed Time!” with the lights actually going out.

Birds that do not like being picked up in the dark will go back to their sleep cage on their own in that 10 seconds you give them before turning out the lights.

Birds that like to be carried will just assume the position and wait to be picked up. XD

As often as I refer to pigeons as the avian equivalent of stray dogs, there are some key social differences you need to keep in mind when bonding to your bird.

Dogs are intelligent, cooperative social predators.

The puppy template for humans is generally set to “friend, until proven otherwise.”

Meaning that a puppy who is well socialized will see every new person as a potential new friend, and is likely to be just as friendly and confident in their new home as they were at their breeder’s.

Pigeons are intelligent, cooperative social prey birds.

Their template for any large creature is “Predator, until proven safe.”

Meaning that a well socialized pigeon who is comfortably trusting of their breeder has come to see that specific human as a non-predator.

If you have not had opportunities to meet your pigeon before bringing them home, they will not have had any opportunity to get to know you well enough to come to the conclusion that you, specifically, are also safe.

So you will be building your relationship with your pigeon from the ground up, no matter how they acted for their breeder.

In those first days while your bird is getting their bearings, it’s important to talk them through everything you do.

This gets them used to your voice and starts priming them to make word associations.

Pigeons are defensive of what they consider to be nest spaces, but social away from them.

For a bird who free flies the house, nest space is the actual nest and about the bird’s body length away from it.

But for a bird with a sleeping enclosure, the entire enclosure is considered to be nest space.

Because only a predator or attacking rival will enter nest space uninvited, pigeons are severely intimidated by hands entering their enclosure.

Those word associations I mentioned earlier will help desensitize your bird to changing their food and water every day.

Make a point to tell the bird “Let me get your food/water dish!” and reach in only far enough to retrieve that specific thing, as quickly and unobtrusively as possible.

As you give them back, talk the bird through it with something along the lines of “Here’s fresh water.” or “Food time!”

Until you have bonded to your pigeon, do not reach for them in their enclosure to get them out for social time.

Open their enclosure to invite them out.

This feels, to the pigeon, like you respect the space that they feel an instinctive need to defend.

Talk to the bird while you chill in your shared space doing something innocuous like reading or surfing the internet on your phone.

This is a good time to start treat priming.

Most pigeons love safflower seeds, but not every bird does.

Pay attention to what your bird picks out of their seed blend first so you know what treats to keep on hand.

Start by greeting your bird by name and asking “Want a Treat?”

Once you have their attention, toss a few of their favorite seeds just in front of their feet.

Praise them when they peck at and eat them with a light, pleased tone.

Then just toss them a little less far away.

The first goal is for your bird to sit comfortably near you.

If you get that far in one day, great! But don’t push any faster than that.

From there, the next goal is getting them into your lap or onto your shoulder.

The next step is to get them to take treats from your open palm.

The end goal is getting them to take a single treat from between your thumb and forefinger, because a closed fist with the thumb and forefinger extended together resembles a bird’s head instead of the giant snake head a closed hand resembles or the giant, five-clawed talon an open one resembles to a bird.

This very firmly switches a pigeon’s perception of you from predator to flock mate.

In every flock of pigeons, there is at least one bird who will feed any peep who begs or any adult who asks.

I refer to these as Flock Aunties/Unkles, and this is the mantle you take on by training your birds to take treats from your fingertips this way.

By inviting them out and offering treats this way, rather than forcing them out of their comfort zone, you help your bird to expand it to include you and the socializing space they share with you.

Every pigeon is an individual, meaning they all have different temperaments and tolerances.

This is why our available birds are categorized by temperament.

It is important to me to match a client with the bird that they are most likely to develop the closest, most meaningful bond with.

It is possible to bond with even a very skittish pigeon, but it can take much longer than it would for a human-social bird bred for temperament.

Remember that stability is important to pigeons, and moving to a new home with new human flockmates is a LOT of change all at once.

So be patient with your new friend.

Communicate with them.

Invite them to expand their comfort zone rather than forcing them out of it.

And you will build a strong bond with your new flockmate. <3

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feathers-scales-and-tails · 4 years

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Been seeing a lot of “backyard eggs are cruel” articles lately, so I wanted to go through a couple of the points they raise and highlight why backyard eggs aren’t inherently cruel.

1) Chicks come from factory farm hatcheries

This point is entirely dependent upon an individuals purchasing choices. The only chicks coming from factory farm hatcheries are production hybrids, so ISA Brown, HYLINE Brown, Utility Leghorn, etc. so long as you don’t purchase these hybrids, you don’t support the unethical factories.

Although private hatcheries have their own plethora of ethical issues, these places are not suppliers to factory farms. The best place to purchase your chicks or pullets from is a private breeder who has good welfare standards. Neither of these options support the factory farms, and the claim that majority of backyard hens come from these factory farm hatcheries is false. I currently can’t name a single person I know with birds from a factory farm hatchery.

2) Male chicks are killed at birth

If you are buying factory farm chicks, yes. However as I mentioned above, few backyard hens are coming from this source. Private hatcheries which sex chicks either sell cockerels cheaper, or sell them in bundle deals for meat birds. Unfortunately private hatcheries are about profit, and believe it or not they can still profit off cockerels.

Private breeders rarely ever sex chicks. It requires specialised training and cockerels are harder to sell, so most sell chicks unsexed. Breeders also want to grow out these cockerels, there needs to be a keep back for the next generation of breeding. Either way, private hatcheries and breeders where a lot of backyard hens are sourced from are not killing male chicks on a large scale.

3) Hens are unhealthy and unnatural due to genetic manipulation

First of all, domestic hens lay more eggs than their ancestors due to selective breeding, not ‘genetic modification’ or ‘genetic manipulation’. Production hybrids are certainly unhealthy, laying over 300 eggs a year causes their bodies to wear out and they’re predisposed to so many reproductive issues. They were bred with the intention of maximum production, replaced after 18 months once this production declines. They are a mess and frankly should not exist.

This is the argument point which always frustrates me the most because, you do realise there are hundreds of chicken breeds right? And just like with dogs, these breeds all have different temperaments, characteristics, and health statuses.

A well bred Wyandotte who lays 200 eggs a year rarely experiences the health issues of production hybrids. These issues are almost unheard of in Sumatra or Sebright who lay 50-100 eggs a year. There are so many heritage breeds out there bred for their longevity, living on average 7-8 years rather than the measly 2-3 of production hybrids.

Most people who keep backyard hens love these birds dearly, these are their pets. Why would someone purchase an unethical production hybrid off the factory farms knowing she will die a horrible death in 2 years, when they could instead get a heritage breed who’ll lay them eggs until she’s at least 5?

I know very few people with backyard hens who keep the production birds

4) Hens are abandoned/killed when production slows/stops

I have yet to meet a single person who has purposefully gotten rid of their hens once production slows or stops.

Production hybrids rarely stop laying unless they are actively affected by reproductive complications, these birds sadly die before they stop laying so owners are definitely not ‘abandoning’ these birds, rather they die long before their time while still pumping out those eggs. Alternatively, heritage breeds will lay for years. We’ve had a 9 year old Sussex still laying eggs. For all the backyard keepers with heritage breeds, the time to ‘replace’ hens is often very far into the future.

This isn’t even raising the point that, these hens are pets. People can eat eggs and still bond fiercely with their hens, people can eat eggs and still value the life of the hen. I don’t think many people are going to turn around and kill their friend suddenly because she stops laying as frequently. My grandfather who used to own a small scale egg farm always kept his old hens who no longer laid, he’d had them for 7 years and that’s an attachment that’s hard to break.

The idea that hens suddenly stop laying eggs one day so people replace them is quite silly, it just doesn’t happen in a backyard setting. Certainly in egg farms, but not with pet hens.

5) Laying eggs depletes nutrients. Hens need to be fed their eggs to get these back

Laying eggs definitely takes up a shocking amount of vitamins, minerals, and amino acids. A big one is calcium, the egg needs a lot to shell it, but each egg also needs enough calcium stores inside the yolk to nurture and grow a chicks skeleton. If a hen doesn’t have enough calcium, she’ll draw it from her bones to produce eggs.

But the thing is, she doesn’t need to eat her own eggs to gain this nutrition back. Chickens have been domesticated for thousands of years, and in this time we’ve perfected their diet. There are many fantastic feeds on the market tailored specifically for a laying hens needs! She should be fed a pellet or mash diet, this ensures she gets the correct amount of all the nutrients, whereas with grain she can pick and chose parts and become deficient. Furthermore, chickens aren’t stupid animals. A hen will know if she needs more calcium, and this is why it’s important to offer them oyster shell, limestone, and crushed egg shells so she can eat extra calcium at her leisure.

Sceptical of the feed, or maybe you just think she deserves those eggs back after all her hard work? Well while it’s nice to treat your hens to an egg every now and then, too many can cause many fatal health issues. If she eats every single egg she lays, AND eats a nutritional balanced diet, she’s getting way too much of those nutrients since the feed is already replacing that loss. A really big concern is that she’ll put on too much weight from all the protein in eggs, this can lead to fatty liver disease which kills many backyard hens annually. Maintaining a good weight in your flock is vital to preventing other health issues too such as egg binding and heart failure.

I love letting my hens eat raw eggs, it’s hilarious and they love it. However I actually had to stop because one of my hens Sooty got dangerously overweight and was at risk of fatty liver disease. You might think feeding hens back their own eggs is great for their health, but it should be in moderation, there is too much of a good thing. Unless you’re feeding your hen rubbish, she doesn’t need the eggs since her diet replaces those nutrients daily, and please don’t feed your hens rubbish.

6) We are using the hens. They are not ours to use as we please

I suppose this point holds up depending on your personal beliefs. I personally don’t feel pet hens are being ‘used’ at all, rather it’s a mutually beneficial relationship. We give them food, safety, and friendship, so they return that friendship and sometimes eggs.

A part of domestication is that the animal adapts to living alongside us, with chickens it just happened to be the constant access to good food and a safe nest encouraged them to lay more eggs. We can’t change that now, so we may as well use the eggs. A dog or cat domesticated for companionship will provide that, are we abusing those pets as well by taking their companionship?

Also if I’m being quite frank, no one will ever get eggs cheaper by keeping backyard chickens. Feed is expensive, coops are expensive, veterinary care is expensive. Anyone getting backyard hens will have some other motive to it rather than just “I want free eggs” because these eggs aren’t free. Most people want a pet, they don’t want to support the factory farming, or they want to feel more self sufficient, maybe all three of those reasons! People aren’t getting backyard hens with the intent of ‘using’ them for eggs, because it’s cheaper just to buy eggs.

So to sum this up, backyard eggs aren’t hurting the hens! If anything, it’s helping them! Showing support for more ethical means of egg production will put pressure on the large scale egg farms to change ways. Hopefully these unethical practices will be phased out one day, it’ll take time, but one step at a time.

Thanks for reading! Epponnee says this egg is for you, they’re tasty and she wants to share! Please take it or she will keep crowing until you do!

#myposts #info #feathers #chickenblr #birdblr #pet chicken #backyard chicken #animal welfare

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orcinus-ocean · 4 years

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Until recently, concern about Bulldog health has focused mainly on the their breathing problems. But other health problems in the breed are well-documented. Now, a new study from Finland confirms that Bulldogs suffer from serious orthopaedic disorders - including an abnormal gait, slipping kneecaps, spinal malformations, elbow dysplasia and severe hip dysplasia. The study, of 24 ostensibly-healthy young Bulldogs registered with the Finnish Kennel Club, found the prevalence of orthopaedic disease, particularly hip dysplasia, so high in the breed that "no healthy individuals exist". All but one of the dogs had moderate or severe hip dysplasia. Three-quarters had at least one malformed vertebra. Thirty-three percent had luxating patellas and almost half of the dogs in the study had elbow dysplasia. The orthopaedic abnormalities are linked to kennel club breed standards which ask for a large head, a broad and heavy front end and lighter, narrow hips, all of which result in extra stresses on the dog's skeleton.

This reminds me of a post I read, years ago, by a bulldog breeder in Sweden, who was simultaneously sad and proud that they had “bred the ONLY English bulldog in Sweden with clear hips”.

So. Breathing issues, impaired thermoregulation, impaired eating and handling objects, face wrinkles that collect bacteria and fungus, an impaired skeleton from flat nose to corkscrew tail, a chest too heavy and hips too narrow to mate or give birth naturally, an inability to run, play or swim like normal dogs... maybe that’s what happens when you take this animal...

...and genetically squash, alter and cut off pieces until it becomes this animal:

You’ll notice, if you spend some time in the topic of exaggerated breeding of dogs, that bulldog, pug and other brachy owners, are the only pet owners you’ll ever meet, who regularly feel the need to prove their dogs are “functional”... and 9 times out of 10, it’s just a picture of a pug jumping over a log, or a bulldog trotting for a few meters.

And that’s their display of how their dogs are “just like any other”. It’s really sad.

Very good comment on the post:

“One of the most worrying points of our study actually was, that the owners of the dogs we studied, did not feel that their dogs were sick or poorly, which is alarming"

Which is precisely why I do not believe it when a bulldog fanatic tries to convince me the breed is ok, that they don't need to change, that it is entirely possible to have dogs with that phenotype that are completely healthy and functional.

I get a lot of slack when an owner tells me their dogs extreme underbite 'causes no issues', or their closed nostrils allow the dog to 'breathe just fine', or that their dogs 'cool off like any other dog' and I question that. Im told 'I know my dog better than you' or 'you're not in the breed' or 'you're not a vet'.

Well.....this isn't the first study we've seen, I believe, that suggests the owners of these dogs are often oblivious to the struggles their dogs endure, and that people who were sure they had healthy examples actually didn't. Excuse me if I continue to call bullshit on claims from owners and breeders of these dogs that 'they're fine'. The evidence we have suggests they can't be trusted in their perceptions.

So with the knowledge we have that these dogs suffer not only unacceptable levels of breathing abnormalities, that *all* of them suffer dental and thermoregulation difficulties as an inevitable side effect of having no muzzle, that damn near all of them have messed up hips, at least half have messed up elbows, the majority in at least one study had a spinal abnormality, and a good chunk had luxating patellas, *and* that most owners fail to identify the dog's struggles, *and* that not enough healthy individuals exist to fix these issues via selection and testing alone, *and* that most if not all of these problems exist because of *aesthetics*.......why the hell are people still breeding these dogs? Why is this still being normalised?

How much more evidence is needed that things must change? I really don't know what it is going to take for breeders to finally say 'well, this breed is basically screwed, and more dogs suffer than don't, and we can't fix it without changing the phenotype'. I really don't understand how much worse it needs to get or what its going to take for these people to put aside their aesthetic preference for the welfare of the dogs they're meant to love.

Because its *all for looks*. All of it. All these poor dogs hardships in life are caused because the narcissistic desires of the humans who breed and buy them can only love them if they look as far removed from a canine as possible.

I just don't get why we entertain this minority of people who insist on breeding animals like this for their own benefit - and they are a minority in the overall human population - and haven't outright said 'enough is enough'. If I wanted to breed horses with pancake flat faces for no other reason than I thought it looked awesome, even when I knew it would bring that animal unavoidable health and welfare issues, no-one would support me in that, everyone would think I'd gone nuts, or was the worst human being alive to even propose such a thing. But because these dogs have 'been around a while', its suddenly fine?

I don't guess I'll ever get it. The only hope for these dogs is legislation. Even if a few bulldog breeders are doing the right thing and breeding away from malocclusions, flat faces, and testing the hell out of their dogs (and I do accept that not all bulldog breeders are created equal) it is, like in my breed, not enough of them to make any real difference to the breed overall. The changes needed are way bigger than that comparatively tiny handful of people can achieve, especially as most of them are shunned by the purists and their dogs called 'mutts'. The only way this breed has a hope is for people to take the breeding decisions out of the hands of the people who think all the above issues are an acceptable price to pay for an aesthetic they like.

#bulldog #bulldogs #English bulldog #qualzucht #torture breeding #dog breeds #brachy dogs #brachycephaly

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small-sesame-seed · 5 years

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Hey! My bf really wants a shiba in the future. What would you tell him/us before he gets one? Thank you!

I sat on this most of the day trying to figure out how best to answer. I’m certainly not an expert, as I’ve just started in the breed, but I feel I did a fair amount of research before getting one. It’s also worth nothing that, in my opinion, any breed can be a breed for a first time owner. You see that a LOT with shibas ( among other breeds ), that you have to be ~ * ~ experienced with dogs ~ * ~ to ever think of being able to own one. In reality, you need to be ready. Ready to deal with their rather odd nature ( very selective about many things; find odd objects to be Alarming and must be boofed at, etc ) and behavioral issues ( reactivity or selectivity is pretty common, especially same sex; resource guarding seems to be fairly prevalent. ). You have to be ready to motivate them - everyone knows I’m pretty loudly +R and advocate for force free and cooperative care. Ignoring that, primitive breeds ( and wild animals ) do real well with co-op care and positive training. And train often. Make a strong reinforcement history. I don’t stand with the “you can never let your shiba off leash” but prey drive is fucking strong. Don’t underestimate that. Koji’s killed about a dozen small fuzzy creatures and if I let him get to the squirrels and rabbits, I’m sure he’d try with those too.

Shibas are sensitive. Koji gets upset and alarmed when I get angry at a video game or if people are arguing outside. Punishment or heavy hands are not only unnecessary, in many cases I feel they’re going to shut down a dog, especially a sensitive breed. You hear all the time they’re hard headed and independent - in truth, they just need motivated. They’re not inherently interested in pleasing you like a companion breed would be. The bond usually takes time but it’s damn strong once you get it. They’re just very particular about a lot of things.Essentially, embrace the odd nature. Meet them, talk extensively to owners and breeders, do everything you can to get a good picture of them in your mind and make sure they’ll fit. Because you’re not going to adapt a shiba to you, you’re going to adapt to a shiba. And really, that should be any breed. Start young with body handling and desensitization. Especially with feet. Grooming them yourself will be MUCH less stressful for both the dog and the groomer who won’t have to deal with a screaming shiba in their salon. Also, start early and slow with gear. Koji seems to be incredibly gear sensitive and I didn’t get him used to a harness young enough so it’s been a bit of a struggle.I probably didn’t cover everything, but broad questions like this always leave me sort of floundering? Sorry ): If you can think of specific questions, ask away! I’m always here to chat about anything, esp if it’s about dogs or my fave breed :>

#waywardequestrian

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maisietheyellowlab · 5 years

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My Dog Breed Selection Process

Yesterday I got this message from an anon:

“I saw your getting a Koolie!! Nice!! They're such pretty dogs. And actually if you don't mind I have a question for you? Feel free to not answer. But you have a lab and are getting a koolie, two different breeds obviously, so do you have any tips for someone trying to find a breed? It'll be my first purebred dog and going to the shelter is hard enough because all the dogs are so cute so how do you narrow down the list for the perfect dog? Idk if you had a list - but how'd you decide on a koolie?”

and I quickly realized this was gonna be a long post, so here it is. This whole thing:

This is the general procedure that brought me to my breed choices:

First come up with a list of “must haves” “nice to haves” and “must not haves” for the type of dog you want (size, coat type, shedding, energy level, trainability,..) (as @katieisstilltumbling / @winedogs already pointed out in the original ask).

Be very honest with yourself and consider that while the dog has to be a good fit for you, you have to be a good fit for the dog as well!

Then go through a list of dog breeds and/or take a few “what’s the right breed for you” type quizzes OR if you really like a dog sport check out the breeds that usually do well in that sport (e.g. mushing: Huskies, Alaskan Malamutes,..)

→ see which of those you like and check their breed descriptions

→ check blogs, forums, videos, fb groups of owners and breeders of that breed, see if you still like what you see

→ if there are any events where you might be able to meet the breed irl (dog shows, trials, breed meet ups…) go there and talk to owners! (this step is not always possible but it’s very helpful if you can do it!)

→ check if the dogs of that breed fit your “must haves” and “must not haves”

→ look up breeders

→ contact a breeder, ask about the breed, their dogs, what kind of owner they like for their dogs, ask if you can meet them and their dogs

→ when you meet irl, see if you like the breeder and their dogs

→ if you’re now sure you want a dog of that breed, tell the breeder you’re interested in getting a puppy from their upcoming litter

→ be patient and respectful

→ get puppy

→ done!

So, here’s an example of my personal breed-selection journey:

Dog breed selection process 1 - Labrador Retriever:

The first step at all was trying to think of the dog breeds I'm generally drawn to/think they're cute and looking them up, checking out youtube videos where owners talk in depth about the breed and being real honest with myself if the breed would fit into my lifestyle. For example, I always liked Cocker Spaniels, Golden Retrievers, Border Collies, Labs and Dalmatians.

Second step was going thru breed lists online and checking them out, trying to see if there's more breeds I like, but maybe haven't seen or heard of before.

Third thing I did, was take some Dog Breed Selector quizzes online, to see if I'd like any of the dogs that would come up as recommended to me. Ofc this is not to be take too seriously, bc you can be a perfect home for a border collie, but the quiz results won't match you to Border Collies, just because you didn't tick the box that said »I have an enormous yard.«

So at that point I had somewhat of an idea what I would want in a dog, and I had a list of traits in my mind that I applied to my top ~10 breeds.

It was something like this:

Must haves:

Medium size

Tolerates cold&hot weather

Easy coat maintenance

Easy to train --> biddable or will to please

Medium/high energy

Suitable for hikes&canine sports

Playful

Good around older children

Good for first time owners

Not very sensitive

Okay with being left alone for a few hours regularly/not prone to separation anxiety

Good with people and dogs

Average lifespan longer than 10 years/as long as possible

Breeder in my country

Cute!

Nice to haves:

Doesn’t shed a lot

More of a quiet type of dog

Litter in the next 6 months

Likes water

Longer than average lifespan

Must not haves:

Guards people/property

Very large or very small

Prone to health issues

Very independent

Very sensitive

High maintenance coat

Prone to DA or HA

Pure working line

Ideas: Australian Shepherd, Toller, Border Collie, Golden Retriever, Labrador Retriever, Brittany

I started looking for breeders of those breeds in my area and looked through all the websites I could find. I looked at their dogs, their breeding practices, the offspring and of course, litter plans.

At that point I felt like a balanced Aussie might be the way to go, so I contacted and met up with a breeder. Turns out we didn't really click and the way that she described the breed and her personal requirements for her puppies' owners left me feeling very overwhelmed, so I decided agains getting a dog of hers. I looked at some other breeders websites, but the more I researched the more I also started realizing that an Aussie might not the the best choice for me any the household I was living in at that time.

So here I learned a very important lesson. Not only do you have to find a suitable dog, you also have to find a suitable breeder. A responsible breeder will stay in contact with you for the res tof the dog's life, try to point you in the right direction, will be a source of help regarding the dog's development, health and training, so you need like them and they need to like you back. So I added another bullet point to my puppy search list:

a breeder that is helpful, friendly, nice to be around

Dog breed 1, try 1: Aussie → not a good fit.

I eventually narrowed my selection down to Goldens and Labs, because they were generally easier for first time owners than the rest of the breeds, less prone to sensitivity and there were announced litters in the next few months.

In the end I went for a Lab, because they seemed a little more sturdy and had slightly less health issues, as far as my research showed. Then I contacted two breeders, I think, and I went with the one that felt more right. Oh and also, I thought the parents of the litter looked better, bc that's honestly a big factor too. You're gonna live with this dog for 10+ years, why not choose the one that fits your criteria as much as possible.

So that was it, this is how I chose Maisie's breeder. She's great, helped me a LOT during the first few months when I needed it most, and we're still in touch, I visit her every year. It feels like she's my aunt or smth, she's really nice.

Dog breed 1, try 2: Lab → WIN :D

Dog breed selection process 2 - Australian Koolie:

The second time around I approached the breed selection a little differently, since I had already met more breeds of dogs irl by then and also had an idea of what I’d like in a second dog from experience with Maisie. A part of my decision to go for a herding dog came from what I want to do with them - I want to try more canine sports that include jumping, so a dog with a lighter build and more will to please. That kind of dog will enjoy those activities more and be able to do them more safely than Maisie.

Must haves:

Medium size, lighter build

Tolerates cold&hot weather

Easy coat maintenance

Will to please

Medium/high energy

Suitable for hikes&canine sports

Suitable for jumpy sports

Playful

Okay if sensitive, would prefer less sensitive tho

Okay with being alone for a few hours if needed

Good with people and dogs

Isn’t bothered by obnoxious Lab behavior very much

Average lifespan longer than 10 years/as long as possible

Working/ working x mixed line

Cute

Breeder in Europe

A helpful, friendly breeder

Nice to haves:

Doesn’t shed a lot

Not noise sensitive

Not very sensitive in general

More of a quiet type of dog

Litter in the next 6 months (hahahahhaha I’ve been waiting for a little over 2 years at this point)

Likes water

Likes snow

Likes toys and food as rewards

Longer than average lifespan

Must not haves:

Guards people/property

Very large or very small

Prone to health issues

Very independent

High maintenance coat

Prone to DA or HA

Pure show line

Ideas: Aussie, Border Collie, Rough Collie, English Springer Spaniel, Welsh Springer Spaniel, Toller, Koolie

I’d met enough Aussies by that point to realize they weren’t exactly what I wanted in a dog, but I still really liked Border Collies. This time around I wasn’t intimidated by higher energy level anymore, but I was still a bit worried about sensitivity and the fact that most BCs I’ve met low key hated Maisie. There were a few who liked her, but many didn’t so I kept looking for a better fit (I thought it wouldn’t be fair for the new dog to be stressed by Maisie just existing and being herself..it wouldn’t be fair to either). I was considering Tollers too, but there weren’t any litters announced at all, and I knew of literally one breeders, so I kept on looking. I had a hard time with finding Rough Collies without extreme show coat and had trouble finding non extremely showy Springers around here as well.

I think I found out about Koolies when I was going through herding dogs, and it was a new breed I’ve never heard of or seen before. They were rarely included bc I was mostly looking at very generic lists I think. I read the description, watched a few videos and really really liked them. They had all the traits of aussies and BCs I liked, but weren’t as sensitive as BCs generally are or as prone to guarding as Aussies tend to be. I found two breeders in driving distance, contacted both, one was kinda weird with replies and said she doesn’t want to sell pups outside her country, but the other breeder was very nice and helpful in her replies and that’s how I started talking to the breeder of my future puppy! I met her and two of her dogs about two years ago and loooved them. They also aced the “can tolerate a playful (obnoxious) Maisie” test, the main thing BCs struggled with.

So unfortunately I couldn’t get a puppy from the two litters that were born in 2017 and 2018 bc my life circumstances weren’t suitable for a puppy at the time, but now I am READY and basically just waiting for the puppy to be born sometime this year.

Dog breed 2, try 1: Koolie → win!

#dogblr #choosing a puppy #dog breeds #dog ownership #text #I apologize for all the typos I missed #asks

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unabashedtastemakersublime · 3 years

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Choosing The Right Dog - The Defined Do's And Don'ts

So you will want Dog! Do the entire family buy in to this idea? Knowledge has shown when a number of are against a pet, then getting a dog in to that atmosphere could cause significant family friction and stress.

Have you weighed up the financial and time implications, these may be significant, buying a dog is a serious responsibility and should never be used lightly.

You ought to take into consideration your wellbeing, age, and over all time restrictions, would you like a dynamic or inactive dog? Some dogs need and require almost regular interest, a lot of workout and mental stimulation. Others tend to be more laid back; thus you will need to analyze which dog can suit your family's prospect and life style that includes residing arrangements. For instance if you reside in an appartment and had limited time, a Border Collie or Springer Spaniel type dog will be madness, and could most probably cause serious behavioural difficulties. Not just for your dog!

Many individuals buy a dog simply because they like the appearance of them, ie for artistic reasons, without taking into consideration the wants and temperament of the breed. You need to analyze the positive and the bad side of one's selected breed and ensure everything you are seeking is ideal for your atmosphere and lifestyle. Make sure you have fully selected the breed prior to starting trying to find your addition to the household

PUPPIES: WHERE TO BUY

If you have selected a Dog then there are some basic things you have to do and some places you need to never buy from, and principles that you have to stick to whatever the breeder or owner tells you.

Rule 1. Never ever obtain a Dog from everywhere or anyone without being able to see at least one or ultimately the parents. There are places named Dog Farms which are positively deplorable. Only understand this link for more information and to report a potential dog farmed dog. http://www.puppywatch.org.uk The puppies from these farms usually have significant problems during their lives. That is caused mainly through bad breeding, poor sanitation, inexpensive food etc, and are generally taken from their mother and siblings much too soon producing socialisation issues with people and other dogs.

Do not let the term Farm supply you with the inappropriate impression. It might not be a farm but kennels which are apparent, ethereal, and brilliant, and on the face of it appear to be an expert establishment. If you cannot meet at least one parent or their are several different breeds of puppies then do not really contemplate investing in a dog you'll live to regret it.

Very often they'll buy the entire litter at state £45 from dog farms in Ireland or Wales then offer then on for you at £450.00 complete with bogus pedigree certification.

Rule 2. Never obtain a dog from a pet shop or some other related outlet; other animals are OK however not Dogs. You might be encouraging the horrible business in puppy-farmed dogs. I have also observed puppies being bought at vehicle start sales.

Rule 3. Never buy on intuition or since you're feeling sorry for a frightened or fearful puppy.

Rule 4. Never take the term of a breeder or any owner who says you can't meet any of the parents, or they top your questions re the parents. The excuses commonly used will be the mothers ill or not available or at friends or they're selling a dog for anyone else.

Rule 5. Do not immediately believe your dog is a pedigree. Just because they've supplied a certification, particularly if parents can not be observed, some of these records aren't price the inexpensive paper they're printed on. I have a dog at my classes during the time of writing this, with the full pedigree certification, bought as a Cocker Spaniel yet it is actually and without any shadow of question an English Springer Spaniel.

Rule 6. Until you are an experienced handler/dog manager then don't pick the dog that bounds your responsibility and pushes all the others out the way in which in it's haste to find you. That is usually the most dominant of the litter. Do not also visit one other conclusion of the range and pick the runt or the frightened one, since you're feeling sorry for it, you are taking on a complete heap of problems should you choose, nearly all all dog episodes derive from anxiety maybe not aggression. You're far better off picking a dog from the middle rankings. The breeder if price their sodium, should be able to recommend you on this. Instead you are able to use a behaviourist or specialist who is able to gauge the puppies applying specialised dog assessment tests.

Rule 7. In the event that you trying to find puppies don't immediately believe that should you go through the Kennel Team path that those dogs and breeders have all been individually examined or vetted by that organisation. That is not the case though a great and well meaning establishment, they really do not need the services or the power or time to test the credentials or bona fide of all the breeders on the books.

You may be better to go to the breed groups of the kind of dog you are seeking, as they generally know each individual professional breeder, and respect each other ethics and work. Contact the secretaries and they will be able to level you in the way of available quality pups.

CHOOSING THE PUPPY AND TAKING IT HOME

You've today put down what you want and wherever to buy it from. I'd suggest you look at the puppies at minimum twice, at 4/5 months and again when you pick up the pup. The most effective age to take the dog home is 7 months see my Emotional Changes in a Pups Growth. NEVER ever take a dog less than 7 months old, it is vitally important they're with their mother and siblings as much as this age, and puppies around a dozen months must be avoided if possible, but this will be determined by wherever they're kept, ie, if they are kept in a house maybe not in a kennel outside without individual contact, when it is a supportive home with lots of experience of the breeders family then it may be considered.

Check the appearance of the mother and puppies. Do they appear healthy; eyes apparent and brilliant, without any any release? Are their layers bright? If at all possible get proof of a person's eye and cool scores of the mother and the father. If the breeder allows you, generally swing and publicity the parents, check their temperament, search for signs of hostility, fearfulness, nervousness, or'Neurotic'symptoms such as eating legs, tail, or epidermis injury, will be the dogs pacing etc. That is particularly important in the mother, whilst the puppies are in shut experience of her. It's been found that, it is the mother that shapes the behavioural potential of the offspring, genetics may fill the gun but atmosphere shoots it.

Make sure you handle the puppies if they become distressed or shy away this could mean they've maybe not been properly socialised. If the puppies have already been socialised correctly, then they'll change and take situations which are potentially stressful. You ought to then get a happy well-balanced dog in maturity.

Before getting your dog home, ensure that your yard is'Safe & Secure '. Buy a collar, lead, dishes, and dog tag with title address and telephone (law maximum £5000 fine) sleep, toys and snacks etc, check with the breeder what she's eating the puppies, a good breeder can source you with some food and give you a eating chart. Leave a tiny quilt or towel in your first visit, such that it gets the mother and the litter smell on it, this would provide some ease in the first week or so at home. Check with other dog owners as to the most useful Veterinarian in your area. If you reside near me check into the local hyperlinks part, as I have proposed what I think to be the very best Vets inside our area.

When you pick up the dog take a crate/indoor kennel or a cardboard package with you and range it with newspaper, take spare newspaper with you whilst the dog may be sick and can most likely urinate and defecate on the journey, particularly when it is any distance.

Once you get home place the sleep or crate near somewhere warm, if you're using a crate and I heartily support them, cover the crate with an umbrella or page to create it more den like introduce the dog to the crate steadily and really, see my report on Toileting With a Crate.

If you have a loud ticking time set this near the sleep or crate, you can even put in a hot water bottle; it mimics the mothers and siblings heat and the break of the time the heartbeats, leave a radio on in yet another space, ensure it is updated into a talk not just a audio station. 97.3 LBC is my favourite and the one I select every time. Uncertain about what the dog feels though cocker spaniel puppy for sale near me?

If the dog remains to obtain distressed you are able to bring it in to your room, though I'd only usually recommend this when using a crate/indoor kennel as you are able to steadily transfer this away around a time period, after the dog has resolved in. You can also put in a hot water bottle; this will copy the heat from the mother and siblings around the first several nights. Ensure it is well protected or you might get an extremely moist bed/crate.

Your brand-new dog can wants a lot of sleep, as being a individual child so an excessive amount of interference in this design is likely to be detrimental, hard handling by kids or people could influence the behaviour and perspective of your dog, and might have a long-lasting influence as your dog matures. However not enough contact and soft handling will even have a poor effect on your puppy, finding the right stability is of important importance.

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lastpic21 · 3 years

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DECIDING TO ADOPT A PUPPY

To form a healthy bond with someone requires that we take into consideration the genuine needs and possibilities of the other. This is true not only of people but of dogs. Certainly dogs should not be thought of as human, but they still have a unique value of their own. Many people fail to recognize that having a dog involves what any true relationship requires. We are most successful at adopting and raising a puppy when we build on a clear-sighted respect for the kind of creature a dog is; then we can understand and accept the responsibilities of caring for one properly. Such an attitude flies in the face of the me mentality, a one-dimensional mind-set that fails to respect a dog in its integrity as a dog and instead sees it only in terms of one’s own wants and desires.

So before you rush out to adopt a pup, we recommend that you step back for a moment to challenge yourself and your family on the seriousness of this step. Play devil’s advocate! Examine your motives. Why do you want a dog? What type of owner will you be? What are you prepared to give your dog in return for the pleasure of her company? Far better to raise the issue of responsibility and care before you get a pup than to learn of your mistake later, when you have a twelve-week-old puppy who is suddenly making demands on you… at 3:00 in the morning!

The One-dimensional Owner

Recently we received a call from a married couple inquiring whether we could find a new home for their five-month-old German shepherd puppy, Wolf, whom they were no longer able to keep. Though we explained that we did not offer that type of service, we asked them why they were giving up on their puppy. Embarrassed, the husband said he and his wife lived in a suburb of a large city and had adopted their pup after several local burglaries convinced them that a watchdog would be desirable. They had gone to a reputable breeder and had obtained a bright, affectionate puppy who they assumed would easily meet their needs. “Yet,” the man confessed, “we had no idea what we bargained for.” This was their first dog.

Being professional people, they had to be away from the apartment at least nine hours a day. In itself, this wasn’t a problem, since Wolf had been successfully house-trained in a matter of days, and they had arranged for a dog-walker to take him out for half an hour at midday.

“Then what is the problem?” we asked.

“He won’t leave us alone,” the man replied.

Having Wolf around, he complained, was like adding four more hours to an already hectic day. When he and his wife got home from work, they wanted to relax and be with each other, yet Wolf’s need for attention made that quite impossible. “I mean, he has to be fed, walked, played with…. It’s worse than having a kid.”

“And all that licking,” the wife chimed in on the other line. “It’s disgusting! He simply won’t settle down and be a good boy. The two of us are even starting to get into arguments because of the dog, and the neighbors are complaining about his barking and whining during the day. It’s just a pain having him around. I mean, who needs it?”

What the couple discovered too late was that they did not need a dog but a high-tech alarm system. They never really wanted a dog in the first place; they only thought they did. They were unwilling to accept (because they never dreamed of it!) the real demands a puppy would make on their lives, specifically his need for love and companionship. During our conversation it became obvious that it had never occurred to them to try to see things from Wolf’s perspective, to consider his needs in the relationship. Wolf was bought for protection, period. When it became clear that Wolf’s needs exceeded what they were willing to give—that Wolf was becoming a pain, an inconvenience—their solution was to get rid of him.

This is a frequent scenario that appears in many different disguises. Though nobody intentionally obtains a dog only to keep it for several months, things can easily turn out this way. Sometimes this is caused by the onset of a specific problem behavior in the dog; at other times it is merely the result of the owner’s fading interest. The common thread in so many failed owner-dog relationships is the belated discovery that having a dog is not what the owners thought it would be. Cold reality clashes with their one-dimensional expectations, and so they bypass the responsibility by opting for the easier solution: giving up the dog.

Who Should Have a Dog?

When it comes to dogs, romanticism abounds! Certainly one of the effects television has had on our culture is to create highly idealized images of what a dog should be like. Rin Tin Tin, Lassie, Bullet, Benji, and Big Red are all presented as ideal companions who require no training and are faithfully devoted to attending to their owners’ every need. They never have soiling “accidents,” they do not need to be taken out for walks, and they are always obedient. They mind their own business when they are not wanted and are always ready to give love and affection whenit is asked of them. What could be easier or more wonderful?

The truth is that the Hollywood dog exists only in the movies. What we never hear about is the long and difficult training process these dogs go through to perform the amazing on-screen tricks and stunts, and the patience, love, and perseverance required on the part of their trainers! If you expect your puppy to rise effortlessly to the standards set by Lassie, you will be sorely disappointed.

Many people are simply unprepared for the changes that will take place in their lives once they adopt a puppy. In fact, our experience has taught us that anyone who thinks he or she wants a dog should postpone the decision until after thinking the matter through completely.

Not everyone should have a dog. Because of a variety of circumstances, many people simply do not have the time or ability to care for a puppy or even an adult dog. A pup will take us outside of ourselves and our own little world. Ordinary personal decisions that previously concerned only you or your family will now always have to take into account the presence of the puppy. Free time that was once for yourself alone must now be shared with your pup. How do you feel about that?

Caring for a dog is a lot of hard work. Canis familiaris, the pet dog, cannot attend to herself. From the moment of her adoption until the day of her death (which, barring accident or illness, can be fifteen years or more), she is a highly dependent creature who will count on you for all the essentials of canine living: food, water, shelter, exercise, training, and periodic veterinary care. But beyond these, the principal need a puppy has throughout her life is social. She requires an owner who is a companion in the fullest sense of the word. Can you see yourself or your family in such a role?

From this perspective, the old injunction is as relevant as ever: Know thyself! People who are willing to look at themselves honestly and who try to find a dog who blends in with their lifestyle and living environment stand the best chance of developing a healthy, long-term relationship with their puppy. Any normal puppy has a unique personality; he will naturally and actively seek out a relationship. Though there are a number of legitimate practical reasons for getting a pup (working, sport, show, breeding, protection, etc.), none of them should ever exclude or override the chief one: the desire for companionship and therefore the willingness to accept the obligations this entails. Taking the time to consider the choice realistically and listing the demands and responsibilities beforehand will bring rewarding results for both puppy and you.

So You Really Want a Dog?

Frequently visitors to our monastery are interested in obtaining one of our shepherds. On just such an occasion, after meeting many of our dogs and talking at length with one of the monks, a woman asked what she should do next in order to get a puppy. We explained that there would be a waiting period and that she would first have to fill out a puppy application form .This is a detailed application that we use to help match prospective customers with individual puppies. As she looked over the form, the woman expressed amazement, saying, “My heavens, you’d think I was adopting a child!”

This is precisely the point. Though a puppy is not a child, the decision to adopt one involves a similar sort of seriousness. It is entirely appropriate for breeders to question potential clients thoroughly, since their answers will help indicate what sort of puppy is best suited for them. Any conscientious breeder feels a personal sense of responsibility for the pups she has bred; her interest is less in selling them than in placing them in the right homes (that is, right for the owner and right for the puppy). Thus, if we prefer to use the term adopting a puppy instead of buying one, it is only because it puts the emphasis squarely where it belongs: bringing another member into your family.

All canids live naturally in packs, the immediate members of their social circle. With domestic dogs, those human beings with whom they live are considered fellow pack members, even if the “pack” involves only one other individual. There is nothing sentimental in regarding a new puppy as an additional member of your family: this is how he will view you.

That’s why it’s important that your choice be more than just a hit-or-miss proposition. It should involve serious thought and planning. Personal circumstances and those of the dog also must be considered. Dealing as we do with a large variety of dogs and people, we have files of case histories that repeatedly demonstrate the effects of poor selection on the human-dog relationship. Making a smart decision regarding a puppy is more complicated than most people imagine.

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buyflexbelt · 3 years

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All Dogs Need a Job: How to Keep Your Dog Happy and Mentally Healthy

Mary P. Klinck DVM, DACVB is author of the chapter"All Dogs Need a Job: How To Keep Your Dog Happy and Mentally Healthy," from"Decoding Your Dog," a highly acclaimed publication by the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists on dog behaviour. As part of Goodnewsforpets 20th Anniversary and in celebration of Take Your Dog to Work Day, we're highlighting this column by our archive.Can you tell us how you chose to be a veterinary behaviorist?

Mary P. Klinck DVM, DACVB with Meike.

I became a veterinarian because I adored animals and could not think of another career that would be as rewarding. I developed a fascination with the science of animal behavior and learning for a pupil, and a veterinarian, I observed that a number of my patients had behavior issues or could at least gain from behavioral management. Once left unaddressed, and/or mismanaged (even by people with the best of intentions), behavior problems worsened, damaging the relationship with the proprietor. This really drove home to me the importance of the area of veterinary behavior.

What do new owners overlook most before purchasing a puppy that later leads to destruction in the house?

Many pet purchases are impulse buys. A purchaser can be carried away by just how cute the puppy seems and neglect to think about what it'll be like when it grows up (bigger, stronger, more active, etc.). Behaviors which are cute in a pup (chewing, jumping up, barking, pulling on a leash, etc.) tend to be unacceptable in a dog. People may also not look at the depth of the commitment when getting a puppy or dog. Dogs may live well into their teens, and also an owner should know that they will have the time, physical and financial resources, etc., to look after a dog for his entire life.

All dogs have physical demands (like exercise, toileting, eating, drinking, etc.), however, people sometimes forget that they also have behavioral needs (for social interaction, mental stimulation, etc.). A dog also needs help learning how to behave in and out of his home and what's secure and what is not in his environment. If the owner isn't meeting the puppy's behavioral needs, he will find an outlet for them independently. The result might be pretty undesirable!

People also often select a puppy or puppy based on the look of the breed or on a romanticized idea of exactly what the breed/dog would be like. Think about that:

(a) How a puppy of a given breed is shown on TV, at the movies or in books Isn't necessarily the way that strain (or any actual puppy ) will be;

(b) Breed fanciers, books or web sites may Emphasize the positive qualities of this strain, but may not mention temperament, activity level, or other features that could be challenging for an average proprietor;

(c) Dogs of a specific breed can vary markedly. By way of example, dogs bred to work (hunt, herd, do military/police-type actions, etc.) are typically very active and require significant exercise and mental stimulation. Dogs of the identical breed, bred for conformation or puppy functions, may be a lot less work to get an operator. Dogs bred carefully and selectively for certain traits of this breed also differ from those consumed by so-called"backyard breeders" or puppy mills. Nonselective breeding makes for much more variability and you also may not get what you expect!

Keeping in mind activity level, can you suggest some breeds you would recommend for a retired couple who want to travel and take their dog ?

An individual ought to be careful making assumptions about a puppy based on its own breed, since the individual might not be typical of this breed. It's probably most important that the dog be comfortable in changing environments and meeting different people and animals. These characteristics are not specific to particular breeds but could be decided by getting an adult dog whose character is somewhat understood or a pup whose relatives' personalities are known. If the retired couple is looking for a quiet dog with limited exercise needs, they likely wish to steer clear of terrier types (which are often quite busy ), and other breeds with high workforce, such as herding (e.g., border collie) or some sporting dogs (e.g., German short-haired pointer), or any dog from working lines.

When one adopts a rescue dog what kind of socialization pattern do you recommend originally?

Puppies go through a sensitive period for socialization when they're developmentally prepared to learn about what is safe and what is not in their own world. This really is between about 3 and 12 weeks old. If one gets a puppy, the owner should benefit from that period. If a person adopts a dog which has passed this age, socialization will not have exactly the same impact on the dog's behaviour. An older puppy or adult dog can learn from his adventures but he is not as a"blank slate." Attempts to socialize a dog may not be appropriate if he's already fearful of, or even competitive toward, certain people or animals. If that's the scenario, it might be best to seek out the help of a veterinary behaviorist.

Socialization refers to controlled optimistic (not impartial, and certainly not unpleasant) vulnerability to various individuals, animals and environment, so the puppy learns that meeting new people and going to new areas is nice, not scary. It also involves avoiding anything which may make the puppy feel anxious or frightened. These principles may also be applied to introducing an older puppy or adult dog to new people and dogs.

Having a new dog, introduce people, creatures and encounters gradually and in a controlled manner, to see the way the dog handles them. Examples of things to prevent, at least initially (since they may be overwhelming to your puppy, and so a terrible experience), are: taking him to the dog park (too many excited dogs might snore on him) and taking him into a block party (too many adults and children for one to restrain his encounters with them).

To prevent forcing a preconceived protocol in your recently adopted rescue dog, how long should you give it before deciding a course of socialization?

Part of keeping good social behavior is planning interactions with people and animals, and tracking themto promote positive experiences and avoid bad ones. This means introducing the dog to people and to animals you know will not hurt or scare him. With a new puppy, one might not have to wait long to have him meet creatures and people outside the household. When he seems quite settled in his new home (which may be when the afternoon after he arrives), then you may start arranging for him to meet some of your pals and their (dog-friendly) dogs.

When family members work or are in school all day, do you recommend choosing a dog walker through the day to maintain a puppy aroused? And, if so, is it better to hire a walker that might be bringing other dogs along or if he/she go it alone with your puppy?

This will be dependent on the puppy's age and toileting needs, as well as his or her temperament. A young puppy will need to have regular toileting opportunities (because he can not be expected to"hold it" for more than the number of hours equivalent to the number of months of age, and one). If you're thinking about a dog walker for an older puppy or dog, that person ought to be carefully interviewed to determine what he/she will do with your dog. For example, will he/she walk him or let him out to relieve himself and then play with him in the lawn? Will he/she bring different critters together? How many, and will they be the same individuals? Consider whether this will be a positive experience for your dog. Remember that multiple dogs imply a higher chance of fights/injury and that your pet walker will not be able to devote as much individual attention to your dog. It's also important to figure out the puppy walker's coaching plan and also to make sure he/she isn't likely to become disciplining (punishing) him inappropriately.

If you should invent 1 dog toy which would address several behavioral problems what would it be?

There's no single dog toy that can provide a fast cure for many behavior issues. However, interactive toys (such as food puzzle toys that produce the dog function to get his treats) can certainly help to use up excess energy or occupy your pet when you're busy. Various types of such toys exist, and dogs have individual preferences (one toy does not fit all).

Retired racing greyhounds make great pets and many become consummate couch potatoes. Is there an action and surroundings you recommend for new owners to interact and socialize with them in the general public?

Groups which adopt retired racing greyhounds frequently require the puppy not to be off-leash except at a fenced-in area (to avoid the dogs from becoming hurt or lost if they take off after something they see). Otherwise, owners can do exactly the very same things they want with another type of dog, depending on the individual dog's character. Owners of retired racing greyhounds may also be able to network with other greyhound owners to get group actions. Play dates with dog friends in a fenced yard or other place, are great. Walking on leash or more structured dog activities such as nose or agility function are other options.

Because many owners are fair-weather forms, what do you recommend if their exceptionally sociable dog that's been walked every day in spring, summer and autumn, suddenly finds itself relegated to the house for extended hours, becomes bored and begins destructive behaviour?

It is important to pre-empt this kind of scenario by foreseeing the dog will require something to perform. On days when the weather prevents the owner from taking the dog out for exercise, interactive activities with the proprietor (s) are a good substitute. You can think of it as taking time you would typically spend on the walk and spending it upon play or reward-based training in the house (for instance, you could try suggestion coaching ). This provides exercise, mental stimulation and interaction on you, just in a different context. You can even supply independent activities for your dog (for instance, giving him food mystery toys). And there is also the choice of classes in a doggy activity that interests you both.

Is there anything else you would like to add?

When getting a puppy do lots of research to be certain you are getting one that will complement your lifestyle. Place him up for success by planning ahead to meet his behavioral needs. This means giving him acceptable ways to make use of his mental and physical energy and assisting him to grasp the way to behave correctly by showing him what to do and rewarding him for his efforts.

To purchase a copy of Decoding Your Dog click here. To find out more about the College of Veterinary Behaviorists, visit www.dacvb.org or see us on Facebook at dacvb.

The advice offered in this Goodnewsforpets ACVB Helping People Help Their Pets columns is for informational and educational purposes only and isn't meant to replace the services of a veterinary behaviorist. The information must also not be construed as a recommendation by the ACVB or even Goodnewsforpets.com for almost any course of action about veterinary medical or behavioral guidance. The editors, writers and publisher disclaim any responsibility for negative consequences resulting directly or indirectly from information in this column.

ACVB is publishing a new book: Decoding Your Own Cat. Click here to browse more.

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thehowlpod · 4 years

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Episode 1 - Labradorable Transcript

Below is a full transcript of our first full episode. Sources can be found here

Hello, I’m Alaina and welcome to the very first full episode of the howl!

Our story begins on an island off the eastern coast of canada sometime during the 1600s. You see, the people of Newfoundland had a problem. Fishing was a big deal around these parts, it provided both income and sustenance to a large portion of the population, keeping them fed and enabling them to afford whatever it was people in 15th century canada spent their money on...which is all great. The problem was that Canada is cold and fishing generally takes place in or around the water and assuming dying of hypothermia was not the goal that sounds like a pretty unfortunate mix. While researching this I ran across words like ‘frigid’ and ‘icy slurrys’ and ‘sub-zero’ all of which I want nothing to do with.

What the fisherman of Newfoundland needed was a helping hand...or as luck would have it...paw. Dogs had always been an integral part of working life since they were first domesticated 20-40 thousand years ago so the concept was far from new. Most, if not all, of these men probably already had a dog or two who came to work with them regularly. The most popular available breeds was probably the most obvious; the newfoundland. Now Ill probably do a whole episode on these giant majestic slobber factories some other time but for now what is important to know is that while these babies were definitely built for the cold, harsh canadian landscape they are not exactly water-friendly. You see the thick, luscious fur that makes up their coat and keeps them nice and toasty on land has a nasty habit of weighing the animal down with freezing water and ice making them sluggish and uncoordinated. The second option was one of a number of smaller local working breeds brought over by settlers from wherever, most of which lacked the size needed for the labor-intensive job or the ability to deal with the wet, freezing conditions.

How exactly it happened is anyone's guess. Apparently people were too preoccupied with not freezing to death to make a proper record or something. Whether it was a particularly innovative fisherman or a spark shared between a Newfie and an ambitious local working dog over evening scraps is lost to history but either accidental or by design the result was going to change the world forever.

They were called ‘St. John’s Water Dogs’ or sometimes ‘Lesser Newfoundlands’ and they were like an answer to a prayer. Thick, short black coats that trapped heat but repelled water, with a characteristic white medallion on their chest these dogs quickly became some of the most common on the island. Medium sized but stocky they could easily bring in a fishing net or navigate the waters around a fishing boat with their powerful legs, webbed feet, and rudder-like tail. In addition to their physical prowess their friendly nature and intelligence quickly caught the eye of more than a few visitors. Joseph Beete Jutes, a british geologist and naturalist, took notice in his book Excursions In and About Newfoundland During the Years 1839 and 1840 Vol. 1,

"These are the most abundant dogs in the country...They are no means handsome, but are generally more intelligent and useful than the others... I observed he once or twice put his foot in the water and paddled it about. This foot was white, and Harvey said he did it to 'toil' or entice the fish. The whole proceeding struck me as remarkable, more especially as they said he had never been taught anything of the kind."

Now if you have never heard of a breed called the St. John’s water dog there’s probably two reasons for this. First, they don’t exist anymore. They went extinct in the early 1980s largely thanks to a tax meant to encourage sheep herding in the area. It limited the number of dogs a family could have and made owning a canine, particularly a female, to expensive for many locals.

The second reason is that it isn’t actually a breed. It was never officially recognized by any national kennel club and thus no formal breed standards or records were made. Groups of animals who have been selectively breed but lack formal recognition are called landraces and it’s the selective breeding part that differentiates them from random strays or mutts. This also means that any standard breed or landrace is technically a genetically modified organisms which is fun.

Now just because they aren’t physically with us anymore doesn’t mean they haven’t lived on in other ways. You see around the time Jutes was making his excursion, someone else took a faithful trip to the island of Newfoundland. A group of particularly sporty nobles, also from England, saw the Water Dogs at work and decided they absolutely HAD to have one too. These men brought a handful of lucky puppies back with them in hopes of creating the world’s greatest sporting dog...an ambition they actually achieved judging by the resulting breeds continued popularity with hunters and fishermen. The second Earl of Malmesbury was one of these lads and his son is credited as being the very first to begin actively breeding them.

In 1903 the Kennel Club recognized the group as an official breed, and the American Kennel Club did the same in 1917, though they were no longer called the St. John’s Water Dogs. The new breeds name was a homage to the Earl and his son and the original dogs they brought back with them all those years ago. You see the earls liked to show off what their dogs could do to friends and family and would affectionately refer to them as their ‘Labrador Dogs’, apparently uncaring that the canines came from Newfoundland and actually had nothing to do with Labrador. Geographical error or no the name stuck and the Labrador Retriever was welcomed into the club.

Today Labs are the most popular breed in America, and have been since 1991. They are among the most versatile working dogs on the planet, employed as everything from guide dogs to drug sniffers to search and rescue. But more than their intelligence the breed is most famous for their unbelievably friendly temperament, making them fantastic family dogs and popular with young kids.

If all of this sounds like a dream come true there is no shortage of reputable breeders out their, and unfortunately twice as many who arent. Always ALWAYS do your research before getting a dog of any kind, both of the breeder AND the breed. The more knowledge you arm yourself with when going into an interaction like this the better. Now my current dog, and all the dogs in my family, have always been rescues so my interaction with breeders is limited to the couple I have contacted in my current search for a new puppy, and I'm not in the market for a lab specifically, but i can pass on advice i got that helped me immensely. Always look at the parents, meet them if at all possible, and pay attention to temperament. With such a popular breed you have an almost never-ending list of possibilities, so if anything feels off or weird, pick someone else. One of the best ways to start off your search is to find someone with a lab who’s personality and look you like and ask them where they got them from, ask about how much follow-up they did, the application process, ect.

Also pay attention to the KIND of dogs they produce. Now this doesn’t apply to all breeds but with labs and any other breed with such a versatile skill set its important to know what exactly you want your dog to do and what they are being bred for. If you own a lab you may have been asked whether your dog is of the American or the English variety. This can actually have nothing to do with country of origin, a misconception that has led the Labrador Retriever Club (the official breed club as recognized by the AKC) to denounce these terms. What it refers to is the sort of genetic line the dog comes from. American labs or ‘working line’ labs are generally smaller, bred to spend their life out in the fields and focused less on adhering to the strict official breed standard required to win a dog show. English labs refer to ‘show’ or ‘conformation’ lines and generally have the characteristic block head and wide stance. Its a difference of style. So if you see this on a breeders website its always a good idea to confirm if they are referring to origin or style. This is important if you are looking for a particular look as well as activity level. If you just want a dog as a family pet and friend for your kids look for a breeder who specializes in family pets. You dont really need or want to shell out the money for a champion line duck dog or best of show winner if they are going to spend their life lazing about your house.

Knowledge can save you more than just a headache when it comes to puppy shopping, it can also save you quite a bit of money. Its kind of like shopping for a very cute car you also have to feed. Now I am not saying that breeders are sleezy or are trying to pull the wool over your eyes Most breeders are in the game for the love of the breed and out of a desire to spread that love. but sales is, at the end of the day, about making money. Knowing what is and isn’t ‘special’ or whether the asked amount is actually what your possible pup is worth can be priceless. The best example of this is the so called ‘silver’ lab. I have personally run into a number of people who have what they proudly proclaim is a ‘purebreed’ lab with a rare genetic mutation that gives their dog a gray or silver coat. Now, im not in the business of being the breed police and am not going to argue with them if thats what they want to think...but that doesn’t make it any less wrong. The only official colors, per the Labrador Retriever Club, that labs come in are yellow, black, and chocolate. It is genetically impossible for a pure bred labrador to be silver. Thats just science. If you want to read the exact genetic breakdown of why this is impossible, the Labrador Retriever Club as a pretty cool article I will post in my sources. Most likely what they have is a dog with a weimaraner somewhere in their family tree. And if thats what you want, or you just really like the look of the silver coat thats awesome. I mean weimaraners are crazy but thats neither here nor there. Im a huge fan of mutts, I think they are the best house pets anyone could ask for...just know thats what you are getting. A big part of a pure breed price tag is the fact that they are a pure breed, they have papers and a lineage, a carefully crafted history. Again, not to look down on mutts or silver labs, i'm just reporting the facts.

Physically labs are generally pretty healthy, if obtained from a reputable and responsible breeder, but there are a few things you want to look out for. Labs are at a higher risk of issues like hip or elbow dysplasia, heart disease, and some eye issues then some other breeds. The National Breeders Club recommends members test for genetic carriers of these issues in their breeding stock and if you dont see anything mentioned on a breeders website I would definitely ask. Bloat is another consideration, though this applies to any deep chested larger breed, and is immediately life threatening so talking to your vet about signs and symptoms is advisable. They also love food and will put pretty much anything in their mouths so keeping careful watch of their weight is a must, following the recommended feeding amounts on your food bag.

There are a couple more things to keep in mind when looking into any breed you might want to welcome into your home. First, Grooming. Labs are double coated, with a water-resistant top coat and a warm, thick undercoat...which means they shed. Like a lot. So weekly, sometimes daily brushing is advisable but even with that expect to be doing more then a little vacuming and lint rolling...or be like me and just embrace you new fur covered life. Now I dont have a lab, but Tallmadge is a 110 lbs shedding machine who, like a lab, has a coat that sheds year round. But there is a point, usually twice a year, where a dog will blow out its coat, or shed away their winter or summer coat to make way for the next seasons hot new look. Luckily other then that and your regular nail trimming and teeth brushing (yes, you should be brushing your dogs teeth) they dont really need a whole lot of grooming. Maybe a bath every-so-often when they roll in something particularly gross or after a day splashing in the local river but thats it.

Another big consideration is exercise. On their website the AKC or american kennel club makes the labrador retriever as needing a LOT of exercise and this is a recommendation I would take to heart for a number of reasons outside of the obvious health benefits of an active lifestyle. While labs sound like the perfect pup for any situation keep in mind that they are a working breed at heart. They thrive in an active and engaging environment, requiring regular outlets for their energy and intellect.

Lab puppies and young adults are known to be some of the most destructive breeds if left understimulated. Im talking about demolishing furniture, eating clothes, digging up years, destroying walls. Yeah. walls. I had a student whose family finally brought me after he chewed through their back-door and took himself for a walk around the neighborhood while they were away. Most people blame this kind of activity on separation anxiety, and while I am NOT an animal behaviorist and thus cant definitely say it isn't signing your dog up for a training class or joining a local walking club is WAY cheaper then shelling out for a behaviorist.

Now, the two main arguments I hear from lab parents are 1. We walk EVERYDAY sometimes for MILES and he still is crazy, or 2. I would LOVE to take him for a walk but Its a nightmare! She drags me around and barks at everyone! So, while walking is probably the most obvious form of exercise, or playing fetch or going to a dog park ect...these activities often ignore a huge part of why your dog might be acting out...they are BORED. Like with most intelligent breeds, if you don't give them something to occupy their mind, they will find a way to occupy it themselves.

Puzzle toys or a kong are a great way to keep your dog engaged and focused, but the best way to work out their brain is something very VERY near to my heart. You guessed it...Training. But keep im mind their high trainability is a reference to their potential not their natural state, meaning you must teach them what you want them to do and if you do that they will generally excel.

As a trainer I have had the pleasure of working with a number of labs, both from puppyhood on and starting as adults. It is always best to begin training as early as possible, BEFORE they can build any bad habits. Labs are mouthy, so working on proper socialization is a must. They are also known for being pretty glutinous, so treat based positive reinforcement generally works wonders, but focusing softening their mouth aka taking treats nicely, will save your hands a LOT of accidental pain later on. I also like to start working on leash manners a little earlier then normal with a lab. Breed standard for a full grown male lab is 65-80 ibs but its not uncommon to end up with a 100lbs + dog. Getting them to mind on a leash is WAY easier when you're not fighting against that much muscle. This is particularly true if you don't like the idea of using tools like prong collars or remote trainers and also want to keep your arms.

A 10 min training session can be as good as a 30-40 min walk when it comes to tiring your pup out, and while I would love it if you went out and supported a local trainer or joined a training club its something you CAN do by yourself at home. Trick training is fun and there are tons of sights out there with great ideas and step-by-step instructions. You can even earn your dog official titles as a trick dog from the comfort of your own home! Or teach your dog to do something useful. Tallmadge can get his own leash, my shoes, and his food bowl on command and learned how in just three evenings (and hes not the most...motivated...dog in the world) Finally there is the fantastic world of dog sports, which I will be doing an episode on fairly soon but in the mean-time feel free to shoot me an email if you want any more info because I could quite literally talk about this stuff forever...which is why I have...you know...a podcast…

Before I start wrapping this up i do want to remind everyone that dogs are all individuals. This has been a quick overview of a breed made up of millions of different dogs with different personalities, temperments, and experiances. They are living creatures with their own minds and feelings, and though it is very easy to think of them as possessions or to anthropomorphize their actions or motivations its important to take a step back and realize what you are doing. Everything a dog does, it does from a reason, free or malice or alterior motive. As a trainer I see this constantly both in pet parents and in myself, and I see just how dangerous this thinking can be. Dogs of all shapes and breeds are surrendered to shelters for behavioral problems their former owners where simply to lazy to address or because they weren’t willing to make the simple changes to there lifestyle required. There are perfectly legitimate reasons for surendering a pet, and my heart goes out to anyone who has had to make that choice and know that what im about to say does not apply to you…

Getting a dog is a huge commitment. It is a living, breathing creature who relies on you for everything. If you make the choice to go out and get a dog, weither it be from a breeder or a shelter, you had better be ready to put in the work. If there is something your dog does that you dont like, its up to you to fix it. Go out, get help, do the work. There is no easy solution, not magic pill. Dropping your dog off with a trainer and letting them put in the time will NOT solve your problems. I am a professional, everything I do and say, everything down to the way I stands or how I give treats is carefully cultivated and refined over years, both by me and those I have learned from. Yes, I can help lay those foundations, but unless you pay attention, unless you are consistant and continue where I left off, it will be useless. Training is a process, not a destination. The work is never really finished. And if that sounds like a headache you would rather not deal with...dont get a dog. I have yet to meet a single untrainable dog...only untrainable parents.

But honestly there are very few of those too. Most people simply dont know how or what to do, which is what im here for! So thank you so much for spending this time with me and I hope you will come back again for our next episode. Im still new to all this so im not 100% set on a release schedule, or how long these episodes should be, or even what you want me to focus on so if you have any feedback absolutely feel free to hit me up on social or via my email, which I will lay out for you in a sec. Im going to start off with releasing episodes every two weeks, so every other monday, to give myself enough time to make the best show I can. Before the credits I wanted to share a quick current news story, and stay tuned after the credits for one last little fact.

So here we go;

On April 29th the Washington Post reported that the University of Pennsylvania is working on training 8 Labrador Retrievers to sniff out SARS-CoV-2, the virus that causes Covid-19. According to the article, which I will link to in the show notes, it hasn’t been proven that this is possible yet but there is a fair amount of precedent. Dogs have been trained to sniff out things like drugs and other contraband and can even be used to detect other illnesses like malaria!

Check back for the answers in our next episode, which will feature my personal puppy starter guide and help answer common questions new puppy parents often ask.

So if you are a new dog-parent, or are about to get a dog and want any of your questions answered send me an email at [email protected]. Same goes for any general question, topic requests, or if you just want to say hi.

I also want to start a segment highlighting the real stars of this show...your dogs! If you want me to feature you and your pup send me an email, titled ‘Pack Pups’ to my email detailing you and your dogs love story, bonus points if you include pictures I can post on our instagram. Again the email is [email protected]

This podcast is (obvious) free but if you want to help support me and by extension my four legged children I also run an Etsy shop called MonochromeFalconShop, all one word, where I sell stickers, keychains, and (more recently) face masks. I plan on adding some dog themed items as soon as I finish ironing out a few final design kinks. You can find me on etsy at www.etsy.com/shop/monochromefalconshop

This episode was written, researched and produced by me, Alaina York with additional moral support from Tallmadge and Meeko. Background cat sounds provided by Bumper. Full episode transcripts and list of sources can be found on our Tumblr; TheHowlPod.tumblr.com or in the google doc linked in the show notes. Follow us on Twitter @TheHowl and on Instagram @TheHowlPod. Please Rate, Review, and Follow if you feel like it and dont be afraid to say hi, I promise I dont Bite!

And finally, one last little treat;

Lab mixes are pretty common for obvious reasons and come in all kinds of shapes, sizes, and colors. Its not weird to walk into a rescue shelter and see many of these sweet mutts. But the more you meet the more you may notice a bit of an odd pattern...you see the most common color found among labrador mixes is not the classic yellow, its black. And yes labs do come in black, but per breed standard its a solid, unblemished black. These pups have a tiny splash of another color, a color not associated with labs at all...white. Specifically a small patch of white on their chest, often referred to as a medallion...giving them a look very similar to a particular, now extinct landrace of dogs who’s friendly disposition and sportsman’s spirit captured the attention of a british nobleman and, through its descendants, still captivates the world.

#the howl podcast #podcast transcript #labrador retriever #lab #dogs #dog podcast #podcast about dogs #the howl #episode 1

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drferox · 7 years

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Could you do an evaluation on German Shepherds?

I knew this question would come. German Shepherds are so notorious from a health perspective. They are also extremely common and a well-loved breed with many devoted enthusiasts, and I’m bound to offend somebody by not being suitably approving of their favorite breed. So let me start with this disclaimer:

Now, with that in mind, let’s talk specifically about German Shepherds.

“Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong… in a German Shepherd.” - Veterinary Pathologists

Many a vet student wizened to the fact early in their studies that if they were presented with a question like “Name a breed in which X occurs”, there was a better than 50% chance that ‘German Shepherd’ would be one of the right answers. That should tell you an awful lot about the breed.

Now, I have to tell you this because I find it really interesting, most dog breeds have multiple different types of Macro Histocompatability proteins (MHC for short). Most dogs will have two different sorts, and in any given breed you might find individuals with all sorts of different variations of the MHC proteins. Certain breeds have a reduced diversity, and may only contain two or three types of MHC proteins in their population. The German Shepherd breed only contains one type of MHC protein.

The significance of this is not immediately obvious, but this is evidence of a lack of genetic diversity within the breed, and is likely linked to an increased incidence of allergy, auto-immune disorders and cancer. Personally I find genetics intensely interesting, but that’s not what you came to ask me about, now is it?

I’m not going to talk about everything. It would make it seem like this breed gets every single possible ailment for dogs under the sun, but I will let you judge that instead by looking at the list of concerns for the breed in the Inherited Disorders Database. I’m fairly sure it’s the longest. You can find more information there, but I’m going to restrict this post to only the things I see most commonly.

Skeleton.

Lets briefly skim over the fact that ‘show dogs’ are being bred for such a bizarre sloping back that prize winning dogs are now basically walking on their hocks instead of their toes.

(Above a winner from Crufts ‘16) (Below a US National Dog Show winner ‘15)

Dogs normally stand on their toes. Standing on their hocks is extremely abnormal and deeply unsettling for me to see, because I usually associate it with a electrolyte disorder, but these dogs are being bred for ‘that look’.

Hip dysplasia and elbow dyslasia are sill major issues in the breed, and is it any wonder why? Single view hip screening does widely take place, but this has clearly been ineffective because there has only been a 1% improvement in hip dysplasia rates across the breed. Keep in mind that many breeders of many breeds will simply not send Xrays in to this database if they know the dog has bad hips, and the problem is probably worse than that.

Degenerative myelopathy is relatively common in this breed, if they live long enough, but it’s reasonably common in many larger breeds of advanced age, so I’m not convinced it’s a specific German Shepherd thing. It is something that I can’t do anything to treat, and one of the more common non-traumatic reason for euthanasia.

This is a breed highly prone to anxiety. It angers me in particular when owners know their dog is anxious, but like it that way because they wanted a dog who was ‘vigilant’ or would be ‘a good guard dog’ and don’t give a damn that there dog is perpetually on the cusp of panic. These are the sorts of dogs that will snap without warning, or will lick their skin down to bone. I believe indiscriminate breeding, especially backyard breeders who throw any two nice looking dogs together, are to blame for the psychological instability present in many of these dogs. Socializing and proper training is not an adequate fix for many of these dogs, and I have had to euthanize some in the past that simply became too dangerous and unpredictable despite their owner’s experience and dedication.

German Shepherds are the ‘classic’ breed for the clotting disorder Haemophillia, but they also get von Willebrands disorder. Haemophillia seems to be less common because it is well understood genetically, but von willebrands has been harder to eliminate. I’m hopeful that its incidence could be reduced over the next 10-15 years, but I will wait to see what happens.

They are also the ‘classic’ breed for splenic haemangiosarcoma. So much so that they are the only breed where I have wondered about whether it would be worth doing prophylactic splenectomy. (It’s still probably not). I think this is related to the inbreeding and the reduction in genetic diversity as evidenced by the MHC protein situation rather than deliberately selecting for it, but first generation German Shepherd crosses also present for this more often than other breeds in my experience. (And from shifts in an emergency clinic, this is not a rare occurrence).

Realistically, any time I know a German Shepherd is on its way in with a big abdomen, my first thought is haemangiosarcoma. My second thought is Gastric Dilatation Volvulus (Bloat). The deep chest of this large breed makes them anatomically prone to this condition. It’s not really genetic so much as anatomical, but is something all owners should be aware of. If it happens there is only a short window of time in which the dog can be saved.

One of the more interesting conditions this breed presents with (I find diseases interesting. It’s a useful trait in my profession) is Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency. Basically the pancreas, responsible for the majority of the dog’s digestive enzymes, stops doing one of its two most important jobs, namely producing all of those digestive enzymes. Affected dogs can eat as much as they like but will still functionally starve to death without ongoing treatment, as they simply can’t digest their food. It’s very interesting, but also rather unfortunate.

And finally at the tail end of the dog we might find perianal furunculosis (I recommend you do not google pictures of this if you are squeamish). It is a painful, irritating, itchy lesion around the anus that seems to respond to immunosuppresive therapy, but some dogs need a huge bucket-load of immunosuppressives to get anywhere. They’re just awful to deal with, for the human and the dog. It’s like having a semi-permanent abscess next to your anus, and for some reason the majority (80%+) of cases are in German Shepherds and their mixes.

I have a theory that certain breeds who have historically suffered a sudden upswing in popularity become indiscriminately bred for a short while to meet demand, and their mental stability and health as a breed deteriorates as a result. Cocker Spaniels (Lady & the Tramp) and Dalmations (101 Dalmations) would be examples of this. I think German Shepherds have had this going on for an extended period of time due to their lasting popularity.

Despite it all there are some people, vets included, that are completely devoted to this breed. There is no denying though that it has many, many issues. It would also be naive to say that all of these issues are confined to just show lines, or just particular bloodlines. Many of them are universal across the breed, and in the future we may well find that the German Shepherd in its current form is unsustainable without crossing to related breeds who have not suffered the same problems.

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centralparkpawsblog · 4 years

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Petplan Pet Insurance Review

https://www.centralparkpaws.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Toby-225x300.jpg

My friend Kathleen adopted a one-year-old puppy, Toby, that had been returned to the breeder.

Toby is a purebred poodle, and though they are predisposed to specific genetic diseases, they are usually considered a healthy sturdy breed.

Knowing my love of dogs, Kathleen reached out and asked my thoughts on pet insurance and whether or not it was worth the cost.

After reading my Eusoh pet health plan review, and knowing how expensive vet bills can be, Kathleen was considering signing Toby up and wanted my opinion on the subject.

After discussing the pros and cons of general insurance, Kathleen asked if I had written a Petplan review since it was one of the companies at the top of her list.

I told her I knew a little about Petplan, but if she would like, I could look into it and get back to her.

About Petplan

Petplan’s founders Chris and Natasha Ahston[1] moved to the US from Britain with their cat Bodie.

In 2001 they moved into their Pennsylvania apartment, looking forward to getting started on their MBA at the University.

Unfortunately, Bodie became very ill, and the vet bills piled up quickly, forcing the Ashtons to move to a more economical apartment to help pay their $5,000 vet bill[2].

During this challenging time, the Ashtons reflected on pet insurance availability in Britain and how it would have been financially helpful had they had insurance for Bodie here.

So, from their scary and expensive experience with their cat, the Ashtons gained inspiration and pursued their journey, opening up a pet insurance company.

And in September of 2003, the Ashtons started their new business under the name Fetch, Inc. However, by November, they were given exclusive rights to the Petplan name in the US and granted affiliation with Petplan UK.

Since opening Petplan has grown to over 200 employees and has received multiple awards, like:

2013 Ernst and Young Entrepreneur of the Year

Smart CEO Future 50

Stevie American Business Award for Petplan’s fetch! magazine[3]

In addition to winning awards, Petplan has been recognized by several media companies such as Financial Times, Bloomberg and Inc Magazine, and Forbes[4].

And they are listed as the preferred insurance provider with American Animal Hospital Association Preferred Provider, AARP, and North Shore Animal League America.

How Petplan Works

Petplan offers conventional pet insurance. Petplan offers protection for both cats and dogs, without any age restrictions.

Petplan makes working with them as easy as one-two-three:

Bring your pet into a licensed vet.

Submit your claim using your smartphone or online

Get reimbursed quickly and easily.

Petplan offers up to 80% coverage for accidents and illnesses, which is in line with most other insurance companies.

And, since they allow you to submit your claims using your smartphone, it makes sending in requests even easier.

I wish the pet insurance company I work with would offer this feature since it would make things even more convenient and help me send in my requests in a more timely fashion.

There are three insurance plans available:

Most Affordable

Maximum payout: $5,000

Annual deductible: $500

Reimbursement: 80%