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southeastasianists · 11 months

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In a Malaysian boutique, a small group of seamstresses sit at clattering sewing machines, stitching bright flowers and leaves into kebayas, traditional blouses worn by women around Southeast Asia. The kebaya is currently having its moment in the spotlight as Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore, Brunei and Thailand — in a moment of unity — have jointly nominated it for the UNESCO prestigious intangible cultural heritage list, with a decision expected in 2024.

What makes kebayas special is that they are worn by women of all ethnic backgrounds in a diverse region, according to Lim Yu Lin, who co-runs the family business her grandmother founded in 1955.

“It’s not only meant for one culture,” she told AFP.

Suited to hot tropical weather, the intricately embroidered blouse is usually long-sleeved, and ranges from loose-fitting to semi-transparent, figure-hugging cuts.

A kebaya can cost as little as USD 7 (SGD 9.50) for a simple, machine-made design, to around USD 1,200 (SGD 1,622) for a more intricate handmade piece.

The kebaya: A national symbol and potential UNESCO heritage icon?

Indonesia picked the centuries-old kebaya as its national dress for women after it declared independence from the Netherlands in 1945.

Author and independence activist Soerastri Karma Trimurti celebrated the new country’s cultural roots by wearing a kebaya to the proclamation ceremony. She later became the country’s first minister of labour.

The blouse was later popularised by Malaysian film actors. Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia’s national airlines also used it as the inspiration for their uniforms.

Kebayas were traditionally worn to weddings and formal events, but they are seeing a steady comeback among enthusiasts who wear them in daily life.

In Singapore, Charmaine Neo, 36, said she wears the garment to attend family events, and that it is suited to women of all ages.

“It’s not just limited to the older folks. You see lots of young people also wearing the kebaya,” she said. “It’s very flattering to the figure.”

In Indonesia, 49-year-old Telly Nathalia said it was during a holiday with friends to Central Java province that she decided to start wearing a kebaya every day. In her eyes, it was a way to connect with her country’s history.

“Our ancestors lived here wearing kebaya,” she said. “People would ask, ‘are you going to a party or something? A wedding?’ Because in Indonesia when you wear a kebaya, they would think that you are going to something special.”

Of culture and identity

The kebaya is believed to have originated in the Middle East and was once worn by both men and women. Over a dozen styles have been developed across Southeast Asia, mostly in Indonesia and Malaysia.

“It’s a form of traditional women’s garment that has evolved over time,” said Yeo Kirk Siang, a senior director at Singapore’s National Heritage Board (NHB), which organised a kebaya exhibition in April following the UNESCO nomination. “There was a kind of fusion of cultures, influences and different communities that brought about their own kebayas.”

Oniatta Effendi, a fashion designer in Singapore who creates modern takes on the traditional blouse, said it is a symbol of cultural heritage.

“Many of us grow up seeing a kebaya worn by our mothers and grandmothers. It represents our culture, our identity,” she said, according to an NHB statement.

“The kebaya may present itself differently in different countries. Its significance to each person may also be different, but one thing is certain: the kebaya brings us together through an identity that is shared.”

#Southeast Asia #Brunei #Brunei Darussalam #Indonesia #Malaysia #Singapore #Thailand #Kebaya #UNESCO #Culture #Traditions #Traditional Garments

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attitudetallyacademy · 2 months

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The Influence of Culture and Society on Fashion Design

"The Influence of Culture and Society on Fashion Design" delves into the intricate relationship between fashion and societal norms. Explore how cultural traditions, historical events, and social movements shape the aesthetics and trends of the fashion industry. From traditional garments to avant-garde couture, this examination highlights the diverse influences that drive creativity in fashion design. Gain insight into how designers draw inspiration from global cultures and societal values to create innovative and impactful clothing collections. Uncover the fascinating interplay between culture, society, and fashion with this insightful exploration.

#traditional garments #fashion designing #dress designing #fashion

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chinesehanfu · 6 months

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[Hanfu · 漢服]Chinese Song Dynasty (960–1279 AD)Traditional Clothing Hanfu Reference to Song Dynasty Murals

【Historical Reference Artifacts】:

Woman in the murals of the Song Dynasty tomb in Tangzhuang, Dengfeng, Henan,China.

【Histoty Note】Song Dynasty (960–1279 AD)·Woman Formal Garment

The large-sleeved shirts and skirts of the Northern Song Dynasty were based on the long blouses and skirts of the late Tang and Five Dynasties, and became more refined and gradually became more ritualized. At the same time, the trend of women wearing crowns became more and more popular, and a variety of crown styles and matching hairstyles were developed.

The restoration of this outfit refers to the image of a woman in the murals of the Song Dynasty tomb in Tangzhuang, Dengfeng, Henan: her head is combed in a bun, with clouds shape hair around her temples, and a crown, which is fixed with flower hairpins on the front and back, and pearl hairpins on the left and right; Wearing a sleeved blouse, a long skirt, and a silk scarf was the attire of the common people and women attending formal occasions at that time.

At that time, married women often wore crowns, long-sleeved shirts and skirts, and shoulder-wrapped scarf when attending formal occasions or when common women got married. It gradually developed into a classic paradigm, which had an impact on popular fashion and the system of public service. The "golden crown and xiapi金冠霞帔" that often appeared in literary works of the Song and Yuan Dynasties was developed from this classic ceremonial attire.

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📸Recreation Work:@裝束复原

🔗Weibo ：https://weibo.com/1656910125/NdlVDn8JP

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#chinese hanfu #Song Dynasty (960–1279 AD)#hanfu #hanfu accessories #hanfu_challenge #chinese traditional clothing #china #chinese #chinese historical fashion #chinese history #hanfu history #漢服 #汉服 #中華風 #Woman Formal Garment

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cimmeria-writes · 9 months

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for @kataang-week -- day 4: cultural exchange

(ID: a digital drawing of katara and aang from atla. they're wearing clothing from each other's cultures. katara is wearing a yellow chuba with red trim, an orange shirt, a chumpi belt, and boots. she has one necklace with small turquoise beads and one with large yellow beads. aang is wearing a parka with a thick fur hood and black-and-white geometric patterns, and dark blue pants. he also has mittens and large boots on. they're smiling at each other, with pink hearts floating between them.

#kataang week #kataang #kataang fanart #artists on tumblr #atla #avatar: the last airbender #cimmeriadraws #the chumpi belt is a traditional andean garment #i assume part of the reason tibet serves as inspo for the air nomads is the high altitude of where they live #and quechua people also live in high altitudes so i think they'd be interesting to pull inspiration from for air nomad clothing #plus atla has already taken inspo from south american cultures with the sun warriors so it works :)#but anyway all i have in this drawing is the chumpi belt so i'd like to incorporate more andean culture into air nomad designs in the futur #i also want to dive some more into siberian and alaskan indigenous clothing for the southern water tribe fashion #and explore ideas for differences between nwt and swt clothing

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lord-squiggletits · 1 month

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In the last salty asks post I unintentionally went on a tangent in the notes about how JRO wrote religious characters which is like actually something I want to bring up on its own so like

Is it just me or does JRO have some real misses when it comes to writing religious characters? Not like every religious character is badly written or evil, but like... several of the ones that are fall into really bad or unflattering/shallow stereotypes? It's hard to put my finger exactly on why I feel that way bc he does write some actually good religious characters (aka Cyclonus).

For example, characters like the Functionist Council and Star Saber are fine to me because I'm like. Well Functionism being religious in origin makes sense, it's an interesting interplay of how religion influences the state/how the state leverages religion to bend the populace to its own whims. Religious bad guys =/= all religious people bad. Star Saber is just some random zealot that wasn't meant to be that deep at all, and eh the Inquisition-type religious zealot can be cool even if it's just the vibes of it.

But then there's stuff like... Tyrest being a normal, rational, not particularly religious guy until he gets shot with a bullet that gives him brain damage, causing him to start ranting about Cyberutopia and thinking God is personally talking to him in his brain...? Like, idk, was it really the best idea for an antagonist to go "he is evil because he got brain damaged against his will w/o even knowing what really happened to him and also because he's brain damaged he's now literally delusional and became a religious (and genocidal) maniac." It comes off as really bad taste/not thinking the implications through as far as how it reflects on religious people (bc the whole "religious people are literally delusional and stupid to think that their gods could possibly exist" thing is tired and offensive). Not to mention kind of ableist w/ the whole "oh he became evil bc he got shot in the brain and now there's literally something wrong with his mind."

(Doesn't help that the MTMTE logbooks revealed that the original idea for Tyrest was to have his killswitch be about trying to identify and execute all of the criminals/"guilty people" on Cybertron, basically an extension of his role as Chief Justice which makes so much more sense and is way more interesting and compelling???? Certainly better than (gets brain damaged) "Ah I'm now going to genocide all cold constructs because God told me to")

And then Drift with spectralism which...which... basically the extent of that whole religion is the name of a single festival (the Lost Light festival the eponymous ship was named after), and some stuff about face/body paint and colors having spiritual symbolism, then the Guiding Hand/Primus stuff that's also shared with Primalism. But then you have Drift who's the main representative of this religion basically being written as a phony who doesn't even believe in the shit coming out of his mouth. Or if his beliefs are sincere, the way he acts is basically just "oooooh, I sense unclean vibes and read into the energy of the universe" which is played for laughs or mocked by the other characters most of the time. And Drift's character is written so inconsistently (and the general religious worldbuilding so one-dimensional) that it's hard to tell if Drift is supposed to be read as some kooky fake hippie type or if he's genuinely a representation of Spectralism in general. Like, idk, the best JRO could come up for for building a religion was "they wear certain colors and patterns on them and vaguely talk about sensing energy from the universe?" It literally feels like baby's first fictional religion or like, religion as understood by a non-religious/atheist person who sees religion as nothing more than an aesthetic or some quirky rituals.

I'm not saying the story had to be about religion or have religion be brought up in every conversation, it's just...... the way he wrote/did worldbuilding for it comes off as as very "non-religious person who doesn't have any particular understanding of religion/why people are religious tries to write what they think religion is about" and most of the time it's kinda cringe.

#squiggposting #negativity #discourse #again i'm reiterating that my critique isn't 'all the religious characters are evil/all the evil ppl are religious' bc that's not true #it's more just that the religious characters are in general written as mediocre at best or offensively at worst #also in the case of drift who's (for better or worse) asian coded #his religion doesn't even have a strong resemblance to any traditional japanese beliefs either #like. all religions have spiritually significant colors or garments or symbols #the whole 'energy of the universe' could be similar to daoism maybe but it's never elaborated on besides that #just. mediocre mediocre mediocre religious worldbuilding/character writing

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emahriel · 5 months

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experimental piece

#em: art #what can i say #i was inspired by traditional turkish garments #i don't like the full piece enough to post it as is lol

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shroudkeeper · 7 months

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#ffxiv screenshot #ffxiv #ff14 screenshot #rare shot of her legs #kikyo without her traditional garments #;_;

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n0sewise · 5 months

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I just think that in a nenless modern setting leorio would meet kurapika and for like the first few months only ever see him in exquisitely tailored suits with his fuckass bob and he'd decide that yeah, i'm into that, and he would go on with his life because he's just a bi doctor doing his best

and then eventually they'd hang out and he'd get to see drowned rat kurapika after zero hours of sleep with greasy roots and an oversized hoodie with stained pj pants, and he's horrified because oh god, he finds This version of him unspeakably attractive too

maybe one day their bickering turns into making out and then into dating and leorio has a table at a Very Nice restaurant and he's applied more cologne than he needs and he's ready, he's prepared, he's gonna ask kurapika to be his boyfriend and it will be so suave and cool and killua definitely won't make fun of him for it after, and then he sees kurapika and he's in his Nice Clothes which aren't a suit at all, they're his traditional kurta pieces for a special occasion, and leorio immediately chokes on his wine because he wasn't prepared for This version of kurapika with smiling eyes and golden thread embroidering his collar and the very cool speech he'd prepared about why they should stop fucking around and just be together goes right out the window, but kurapika understands the sentiment and agrees

killua will make fun of him for it anyway.

#i just find kurapika's fashion so interesting #like how it reflects where he is in the narrative #and i think nenless au leorio would be fully unprepared for traditional kurta garment kurapika #honestly i could make an entire fashion post about the main 4 #leopika #nosewise writing tag

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konfizry · 2 months

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The in-game description mentions that Shionne's battlemaiden outfit might be good for archery; note the presence of the blue oversleeve (igote or yugote, i had do look that up) on her left arm, which you wear to prevent your sleeve from getting in the way as you hold the bow with your left arm and draw the string with your right hand, especially if you're shooting while on horseback apparently. Now the whimsy part comes in with the glove. It seems like if you want to go asymmetrical and wear only one glove, that's possible (as do practitioners of kyuudou for example) but. you'll probably want to wear it on the hand that draws the string. i.e. not on the side that has the igote. like what was the project here

#or just wear gloves on both hands. idk it just seems like the worst possible decision was made here #(anyway she never does wield bows so this is all very inconsequential)#shionne simping #i do love the bullets and cylinder patterns on the igote tho #like the audacity of it #of wearing a garment that is primarily designed for archery #and putting GUN STUFF on it because I HAVE A GUN it goes BANG BANG fuck bows #very shionnecore #no but for real i do like what they did with those patterns for real #it's cute. it works.#isnt shionne the cutest #arise curse #like adding little tails to the chambers in the cylinder pattern and suddenly we're in this Traditional Japanese Moment #like they kinda look like magatama or soul fires maybe #you might call it cheap i call it clever #tales of arise

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haykhighland · 1 year

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beyond this survival,

somewhere our sun sets,

it lets resilience rest,

and I feel— perhaps,

we are not forged of this grief,

nor flashes of forgotten bravery.

— Armenian poem

#armenian #traditional costume #traditional clothing #garment #garments #traditional garments #west asia #culture #indigenous #poetry #armenia #Anatolia #armenian highlands #history #Middle East

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the-insouciant-scientist · 2 months

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Seeing everyone go nuts over Ezekiel's sequencer 'scarf' is so funny to be because yes, it's an objectively cool article of clothing! But also it's a stole, a liturgical vestment, not just an accessory fdghfdhgdg

#he is a reverend! and it's neat to intertwine more traditional garb with the nautical/skyfaring uniforms of the new sequence #it really is a fun design though. slap the dawn machine/clockwork sun directly onto a garment what could go wrong #the scientist scribbles #c: ezekiel clairmont

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postcard-from-the-past · 3 months

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Minangkabau women in traditional garments from the Highlands of West Sumatra, Indonesia

Dutch vintage postcard

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the-most-pathetic-edge-marquis · 1 month

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the dude string trail

(aka jasper cowboy headcanons UwU)

i had a conversation with the one and only @su-angelvicioso that inspired me so strongly i wrote this even though i was Not Writing Twilight at the time, and you know what fuck it, i think it's funny. cori, as always, thank you for being my favorite person to talk about twilight with.

this is completely authentic and not sarcastic at all. why would you think that

one fall, jasper decides that he misses embracing his texan heritage. he wants to get back into being a cowboy!

(this is definitely only about him missing horses and his human life & has nothing at all to do with being sick of living with the cullens & kind of in trouble because he ate someone again & tired of having to defend himself to alice about wearing boot-cut jeans for no apparent reason. because none of those things are happening. obviously.)

“back into being a cowboy?” emmett says. “wait, when were you a cowboy?”

jasper ignores emmett, who is obviously just jealous of jasper because he has superpowers and is better at fighting, and definitely doesn’t know anything about cowboys or cowboy culture because what would someone from rural tennessee know about cattle ranching.

he also definitely doesn’t have a cooler more authentic southern accent than jasper. what

because the cullens are richer than god and alice will do literally anything to get rid of jasper right now because he called her maría by accident again i mean what that never happens he gets himself a nice two-week vacation all alone on a ranch up in wyoming.

(texas is too sunny. that’s definitely the only reason he doesn’t go south.)

he arrives. he realizes that he has gotten way too used to living in houses that esme made because he explicitly chose a ranch with some of the fanciest cabins, and he’s a vampire who doesn’t feel discomfort or really need to sleep—but he still sees the cabin where he’ll be staying and winces.

it’s…it’s fine, he supposes. a little log cabin, with lots of windows and glass doors and a view of the mountains. it’s just…

well. first of all, is the emphasis on the little.

also it’s just…very brown. surely the log walls would be enough, right, they don’t need to have brown rugs too? and brown curtains? and weird little yellowish shades on the lamps?

at least the blankets are colorful. great southwest style.

(he squashes the part of himself that sounds an awful lot like maría laughing about how cheap and mass-produced the thing clearly is; not even a good imitation, she’d probably sniff,and then go and find herself a new rebozo just out of spite—)

(this is why jasper isn’t in texas.)

whatever.

he waves off the worker who led him to the building—she’s in the middle of some spiel about what to do if he has questions, but why would that be relevant?

she radiates annoyance for some reason, as she heaves jasper’s suitcases into the building and hurries off. he has to admit, she does a very good job of covering it with a bright smile. if not for the empathy, he probably wouldn’t have noticed.

did he do something wrong, he wonders for a moment, but ultimately he decides the girl must just be in a bad mood today.

weird. he can’t imagine working here is that bad.

anyway. jasper isn’t here to worry about the interior design of the cabins, he’s here to be a cowboy!

(his thoughts sound like maría laughing at him again, at that idea, but he’s not going to think about why, thanks.)

jasper, because he is a vampire war lieutenant and a strategist and not an idiot (thank you very much, emmett), is well aware that the horses might not react...let's say ideally...to him being a vampire.

he also has a plan.

it's a great plan. simple. he'll sneak down to the pastures in the dead of night and wander around getting the horses used to his smell.

the plan did not account for the possibility that a number of the employees would be sitting on a porch at midnight smoking weed together. (didn't they care about their jobs? what if something went wrong with the horses? geez.)

admittedly he sneaks past them easily enough, but it's still annoying.

the more difficult thing his plan apparently failed to account for...

were horses always this mean?

jasper, over the course of his midnight jaunt, gets kicked, bitten, knocked over into piles of horse shit, (apparently even a vampire can be thrown off-balance by an entire herd of furious ungulates), and somehow covered in hay.

he refuses to consider the possibility that alice is watching this.

(when he gets back to the cabin later that evening, he of course finds a sticky note in his suitcase informing him to just throw the entire outfit away.)

he does, eventually, figure out that he can use his powers to calm a few of the horses down long enough to let him get within approaching distance.

this is inevitably followed by him letting his guard down, and said horses booking it away from him at top speed, shrieking like demons, but he decides to call it good enough regardless.

he spends basically the rest of the night in the shower, which he was not expecting to have to use. the water pressure is shit.

he definitely isn't sulking about this.

(he still smells like horse manure in the morning.)

the actual riding goes better though! totally! it's fine!

"so, do you have any horse experience?" the employee (he's pretty sure it's a different one than earlier) asks him as she leads him down to the corral.

"it's been a while," jasper says, "but i used to be pretty good."

for some reason, this makes the girl's eye twitch.

despite her obvious annoyance, she keeps trying to make conversation. jasper, despite wanting to tell her to fuck off, but is extremely polite and subtle and good at secret-keeping, (obviously), so he tolerates the conversation.

for some reason, it still doesn't go smoothly.

"where are you from?" "texas." "oh, nice! one of the other guides, jeremy, he's from austin." (a baffling pause, as though she's expecting him to say something to that inane statement.) "so was that where you learned how to ride?" "yes." "what'd you do?" "i was in the cavalry."

for some reason, that gets her to stop trying to talk to him, and jasper enjoys thirty seconds of blissful silence as she leads him into the pen of already-saddled horses.

this is what he's here for. who cares about the people, he's going to ride.

(he tries to ignore the fact that the horse she deposits him is extraordinarily fat, and so clearly done with life that he hardly has to try to calm it. it's fine. it is not a statement about what she thinks of his riding skill.)

(fine, it probably is. but she's clearly an idiot.)

anyways! he rides! it goes great! it's fine!

(anyone who says differently doesn't know what they're talking about and they weren't there anyway.)

"wow," the guide says as they start walking out toward the trail, "this is the most amped i've seen arrow like, ever." jasper, who is kicking the horse probably harder than a human would even be able to and getting absolutely 0 increase in speed, is not impressed.

"okay, we're coming up on a stream," she says at another point on the first insufferably long trail ride, as her mare splashes calmly through it. "your horse might not want to cross, so you need to just--"

jasper knows. he kicks harder.

the demon horse responds to this by deciding to jump across a stream that is literally the length of one of its steps.

jasper does not fall off. he just...gets down. very quickly. over the side of the horse's neck. onto his face.

his cowboy hat floats off downstream, but it was ugly anyway.

("okay no, my guy's definitely got the worst fashion boots," he overhears the guide saying to one of her coworkers during lunch, when they probably think they're out of human earshot, "did you see the fucking snakeskin patches--")

on another ridiculous ride through a bland, endless meadow, the nightmare horse stops dead in a patch of grass and ignores everything else, (including jasper's attempt to manipulate it into having any energy).

"he's trying to eat again," the guide says, sickly-sweet patient even though he can feel her amusement. "you just need to pull up to one side and kick forward!"

jasper comes the closest he ever has to revealing the vampire secret, (not counting the times he ate people), just so he can tell her that he knows, he has a perfect memory, the goddamn horse just won't do it.

in the second week he buys his way into--er, gets invited into--a more advanced session, with actual cows. of course, they leave him on the same asshole of a horse, who clearly doesn't know how to respond to basic commands like turning, even when he's putting all his weight into dragging the reins to the side.

("i'm pretty sure this dude has somehow never seen a cow," the guide complains during another lunch. "did you see the face he made when darren brought the herd in?" there's a beat, then they start giggling--if jasper had to guess, he'd say she's imitating said expression. which is just rude. he's seen cows before. obviously. he just wasn't expecting them to be literally covered in each other's shit. they smell so bad. who wouldn't make a face at that?)

anyways. the cattleworking is fine.

and he could totally have landed on his feet after the horse stopped out of nowhere if he wanted to.

he just needed to keep his cover. same for stopping the cow that tried to make a break for it and almost trampled him while he was down. he had it under control. he did not need the guide to electric-prod it in the face.

(alice and maría's voices are both laughing at him in his head now.)

one of the older men gently suggests that he might enjoy himself more going back to trail riding. that is also fine.

on day ten, he gets back to his cabin late (the girl asked if he wanted to help her brush down his horse today, and everyone else seemed excited about the option so he said yes, and now he smells like horse sweat), and goes to pull his twelfth new outfit out of the suitcase. (there is a washer/dryer in the cabin, but what does he look like?)

there's a note folded up in the button-down.

i'm picking you up in 15 at the front office, alice's chicken-scratch says, or you're going to snap and eat a bunch of horses and we're going to have to buy the ranch instead of getting me that paris studio that's going up for auction next year.

for a second, jasper considers ignoring it. he's not surrendering. this is his vacation goddamnit, he's fine--he rubs a hand over his mouth in thought, and an ungodly combination of horse hair, dirt, and hay smears onto his face.

20 minutes later, he's in the passenger seat, alice speeding around mountain passes and playing a pitying bluegrass CD for him.

"i had a good time," he tells her.

"sure, sweetheart."

"it was nice to cowboy again."

"mm-hmm, sweetheart."

"i do know how to ride horses."

"i know, sweetheart."

they drive the rest of the way back in silence.

(it never occurs to jasper that he should've left a tip.)

#is this original content?#jasper whitlock #ft. near-lethal amounts of sarcasm #& sponsored by the TOO MUCH TIME i spent working at a guest ranch in my late teens #look at me. JASPER IS NOT A COWBOY #(yes that remains my favorite hill to die on)#jasper is however the kind of shitty rich white man who THINKS he's a cowboy #trust me. i met so many of them doing that job #also for the record mass-market 'southwest' style blankets are predominantly copying navajo blanket patterns (w/out regard for the meanings #and rebozos are an Indigenous Mesoamerican (particularly Mexican) traditional woman's garment! not the same thing #but that was too much to get into in the story. ANYWAY #i hope you enjoyed me being a hater. if u didn't. that's ok i mostly wrote this for me #(also i DID listen to 'dude string trail' on repeat while writing this. for the vibes)

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