#shusu silk

[tanuki-kimono]

Festive red for this outfit, pairing a kimono with dynamic brush-like swirls, with an antique black base obi depicting an Ise-ebi among bamboo leaves.

Ise ebi (Japanese spiny lobster) are an auspicious creature part of New year osechi ryôri celebratory dishes: their bent back make them look like an old person, hence why they symbolize wishes for long life :)

#japan #fashion #kimono #obi #ebi #ise ebi #lobster #spiny lobster #prawn #shrimp #brush stroke #bamboo #take #sasa #leaves #New year in japan #shusu silk #black satin #osechi ryori

[missmyloko]

Except for many extra layers and no pattern, are kimono for tayu exactly like geisha's? Are there differences in structure or any other relevant one between both?

The structure of all kimono is the same, but tayū kimono are made very differently from a geisha's. Tayū kimono are made from thick, shusu silk and are heavily padded along the bottom whereas geisha use normal silks that are, at most, lightly padded along the bottom. Tayū kimono are uchikake types while geisha wear hikizuri or houmongi ^^

[fashionandbunny]

Techniques

Types of Techniques: Wow I Wish I Had the Means To Do Any of These

Gold Foils

Surihaku

“Printed foil” or “impressed foil”

Originated in the Nara Period

How: paste is applied to fabric (shusu or rinzu satin) over a stencil. The stencil is removed and while the paste is still wet the foil is applied. Any extra is brushed away

Cloth used is usually a deep red, purple, or indigo

Rose to popularity in Muromachi period due to imports

Not many extant garments, as the foil by this time has flaked away

Used often for Noh costumes

Nuihaku

Combo of surihaku and embroidery

Done to give the designs more depth

Photo Source second half of the 18th–first half of the 19th century Embroidered silk satin Egret and Willow Tree                                                                                        The Met Museum

Tsujigahana

Combo of tie-dye, hand-painting, and surihaku

Came about during Muromachi to Azuchi-Momoyama Period in Kyoto

Photo Source late Momoyama period Plain-weave silk with resist dyeing and ink painting Horizontal Stripes, Flowering Plants, Fans, Snowflakes, Clouds, and Bellflowers                                                                                                          The Met Museum

Woven Designs

Aya

Twill

Rinzu

Figured satin

Nishiki

Weft and weave threads are different colors

Kinran/Ginran

Gold/silver threads used in weft/weave

Tsuzure-ori

Tapestry weave

Ukimon-ori

“Floating-design weave”

Long lengths of thread are “floated” on the surface of the fabric

Can still be seen in obi designs

Noshime

Striped fabric weave

Photo Source Meiji Period Noshime Furisode with Dragons and Clouds in Cloud-Silhouette Band on Dark Brow Kyoto National Museum

Dyeing and Printing

Kokechi

“Tie-dyeing”

Shibori

A type of non-wax resist dyeing

Fabric is wound with cord and dyed in indigo

Nuishime-shibori

Fabric is sewn together and then dyed

Created during the Muromachi Period

Nui-shibori

Combo of shibori and embroidery

Murago

Different shades of the same color merge into each other

Rokechi

Wax-resist dyeing

Kyokechi

Block-resist dyeing

Kata-zome

Combo of stencil dyeing and block printing

Used during the Nara Period

Gave way to “Komon” (small pattern)

Yuzen-zome

Created by Miyazaki Yuzensai (Kyoto Yuzen)

How: a design is painted on the cloth with paint and dyestuffs, fixed with a liquor made of beans, and sealed with a paste made of rice before the surrounding area is dyed.

At the same time Miyazaki was working in Kyoto, this technique was also being discovered at the same time in Kanazawa in Kaga Province

Kaya yuzen

Bright colors

Considered more charming

Kyoto yuzen

Darker colors

Photo Source Early Meiji period Paste-resist dyed (yūzen) and painted silk gauze with embroidery Unlined Summer Kimono (Hito-e) with Crickets, Grasshoppers, Cricket Cages, and Pampas Grass                                                                            The Met Museum

Kirihame

Applique and patchwork

[on the topic of Japanese color culture] “The same preference for gradual change is the reason a shade of grey called usu-nibi-iro was worn for morning rather than black. It represented not a sudden descent into the dark of night, but a gradual transition into twilight.” P.161

Part 5

#kimono #kimonos #historical #historical fashion #japanese historical fashion #japanese designs #japan #research #research notes #textiles #dyeing #fashion

[wildbeautifuldamned]

Gorgeous Embroidery Dragon Design Vintage Nagoya Obi   This is a vintage Nagoya obi with a design of dynamic dragon, which is embroidered. Kinkoma(golden outlining) and ginkoma(silver outlining) embroidery works are added to the vibrant design against the black background. Textile is shusu(satin) silk and jinken (rayon) blend. Thin cotton fabric is attached on the wrong side of otaiko.

http://www.ichiroya.com/

#obi #kimono #dragon #embroidery #Japan #japanese #gilt

[elyssediamond]

Traditional Weaving in Nishijin, district of Kamigyō-ku in Kyoto, Japan

1. Produced in Kamigyoku Kyoto City, Kyoto-Fu. 2. Characteristics: The name "Nishijin"(west position) came about because these gorgeous fabrics were produced in the area in Kyoto where the position of an army, then called "West Army" was in a civil war("Onin no Ran") which lasted 10 years, ending in 1477. As it is woven with threads of many colors, "Nisahijin Ori" is a gorgeous and brilliant fabric representative of Japanese textiles. More than 150 ways of weaving are used to achieve the varieties of fabrics: in general, however, 2 kinds;"Mon Ori" and "Tsuzure Ori." As far as the sashes are concerned, "Nishijin" is one of the 3 cities producing quality sashes. 3. Uses: Sashes, clothing, gold brocades, thick curtains, interior and textile art. 4. History: The history of "Nishijin Ori" is only 500 years old, but that of silk fabrics in this area is older and with much ups and downs. A Korean named Hata, with some 1,000 Koreans settled here and started sericulture and silk weaving in the 5th or 6th century. When the capital was moved here in 794 and the Fabric Office was established, Kyoto developed into a flourishing center of fabrics for imperial families, nobilities and court officials. Such quality fabrics were woven as "Ra" and "Sha"(gauze), "Aya"(figured twill), "Kome Ori"(kind of gauze) and "Nishiki"(brocade). In the Muromachi Period, Kyoto became a battlefield as a civil war broke out. Weavers left here for Nara and Sakai but came back after the war. They established a weaverﾕs guild, resuming the production here. As the Ashikaga Shogunate protected it, Nishijin weaving reached an extensive development. In the Azuchi Momoyama Period(1568-1600) production of many kinds of weaving was possible due to the patronage of a warrior ruler Toyotomi and trade with China. Through the Chinese came the technique of weaving "Kinran"(rich brocade with gold threads), "Donsu"(damask) and "Shusu"(satin). The weaving industry declined off and on in 1730 and again in 1788 due to a big fire in Kyoto. After that, however, the industry was revived because of the weaversﾕ efforts in developing the techniques and the quality and also because of the townsmen class, now rich, supported the industry. Thus, Nishijin became the center of quality fabrics. The industry continued to prosper even after the Jacquard machine was imported in the Meiji Period. Nishijin has been the greatest center of the silk fabric industry. "Tsuzure Ori" is a technique in weaving designs in plain weaves with thick twist yarns as weft. A sketch of the design is placed under the warp in the loom and the weaver puts in the weft while looking at the design through the warp. The weft in general is woven by using a reed with the width of the fabric. In "Tsuzure Ori," however, colored threads, including gold and silver, are woven into the design. The weaversﾕ nails are shaped like saw teeth and used for fixing the threads into the design. Therefore, "Tsuzure Ori" is also called "Tsume(nail) Tsuzure." -Source: http://www.kimono.or.jp/dictionary/en...

Video Credit: TEWAZA - Traditional Crafts Aoyama Square

#Japan #Japanese art #textile art #textiles #kimono #obi #silk #weaving

[fishstickmonkey]

Fukusa (Gift Cover)

Japan, late Edo period (1789–1868), early 19th century

   Patterned side: silk, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave (shusu); embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip wrapped silk in Chinese knot, satin, single satin, surface satin, stem and straight stitches; paper-strip wrapped cotton padded satin stitches; laidwork and couching; painted India ink (sumi) details Lined (re-lined) with silk, plain weave with creped wefts (chirimen); interlined with cotton; plain weave; padded with waste silk Sewn with padded lining extending beyond front at center on all four side (Yatsuzuma); silk, running "controlling" stitches along edges

Art Institute of Chicago

#fukusa #textiles #Japan

[tanuki-kimono]

Holidays colors yes but with a twist :D

Beautiful color matching for this antique outfit, pairing a kimono with bamboo stalks over a ground of hanakatsumi (geometrical leaves and flowers pattern), with a fantastic black-based obi with a snarling hannya noh mask.

#japan #fashion #kimono #obi #hannya #mask #noh mask #noh #bamboo #take #hana katsumi #hanabishi #diamond shaped flower #shusu silk #black satin #着物 #帯

[tanuki-kimono]

Dynamic wavy patterns for this antique outfit, pairing a bold kimono with scattered kiku (chrysanthemum), and a black-based satin obi with embroidered nanbansen (foreign trade ship, especially Portuguese or Dutch ones).

#japan #fashion #kimono #obi #wave #nami #nanbansen #foreign trade ship #chrysanthemum #kiku #shusu silk #着物 #帯

[tanuki-kimono]

Colors of autumn antique outfit, with an unsual black-base satin obi with hanpainted foliage and embroidered colorful bird + juicy persimmons.

I am in love with the maple leaves kimono, pairing shadow leaves ground with just the right splash of rusty leaves here and there <3

#japan #fashion #kimono #obi #autumn in japan #kaki #persimmon #bird #tori #momiji #maple leaves #shusu silk #black base obi #帯 #着物

[tanuki-kimono]

Rare pattern for this red chôchin (paper lantern) black-based satin antique obi! I believe I never saw a kimono item with a lantern as main subject, this is really cool :3

This hand-held lantern with a simple handle (here made from bamboo) is called ぶら提灯 burachouchin. Many other types existed, like the bow-shaped handle sturdier yumiharichouchin, or the umanorichouchin meant to be used on horseback.

#japan #fashion #kimono #obi #chouchin #chochin #paper lantern #red lantern #bura chouchin #yumihari chouchin #umanori chouchin #shusu silk #black base obi #着物 #帯

[tanuki-kimono]

Romantic antique attire perfect for kôyô (autumn leaves viewing season) depicting small birds in turning maples trees.

The black silk shusu obi is matched with a lovely sanpogi (lit. ”stroll outfit”). Those were beautiful kimono featuring mirror designs on skirt flaps and all over patterns. I believe they were worn as fashionable day dress and were briefly in fashion in Kansai (Osaka?) pre wwii.

#japan #fashion #kimono #obi #maple leaves #koyo #momiji #tori #bird #shusu silk #sanpogi #着物 #帯

[tanuki-kimono]

Angry looking white rabbit embroidered with horsetails on black satin obi, paired with a retro tsubaki (camellia) kimono.

I’ve not stressed this tidbit in a while so let’s go: in traditional kimono fashion, black, white and red are all considered “neutral” colors ;)

#japan #fashion #kimono #obi #rabbit #white rabbit #moon rabbit #bunny #horsetail #tokusa #tsubaki #camellia #shusu silk #black satin #着物 #帯

[tanuki-kimono]

Comforting autumnal outfit, pairing a lovely tsuta (ivy) over bamboo ground kimono, with a shimarisu (tamia/chipmunk) in grapevine shusu silk obi

#japan #fashion #kimono #obi #autumn in japan #tsuta #ivy #shimarisu #tamia #chipmunk #risu #grapevine #budou #shusu silk #着物 #帯

[tanuki-kimono]

Brilliant autumn hues for this take (bamboo) patterned haori (with peacock feathers on lining). OP chose to pair it with a kimono with discreet checkered pattern, and a lovely black satin obi with embroidered kaki (persimmon). Perfect nostalgic sato no aki (autumn countryside/village) mood!

#japan #fashion #kimono #obi #haori #take #bamboo #kaki #persimmon #shusu silk #autumn in japan #winter in japan #着物 #帯 #羽織

[tanuki-kimono]

Lovely retro outfit, pairing a beautiful kimono with diagonal lines, with a black satin obi with a seasonal scenery of kansuzume (lit. cold sparrow) fluttering in take (bamboo)

#japan #fashion #kimono #obi #winter in japan #kan suzume #suzume #cold sparrow #sparrow #take #bamboo #shusu silk #black satin #着物 #帯

[tanuki-kimono]

Goth romance feeling for this autumny outfit, featuring a kimono with delicate spidery mums, paired with an antique shusu silk obi with embroidered spiderwebs and fukiyose (wind blown leaves). The moth obidome looking entangled in the web is the most perfect accessory for this belt!

#japan #fashion #kimono #obi #autumn in japan #spider mum #kiku #chrysanthemum #shusu silk #spiderweb #spider #kumo #fukiyose #wind blown leaves #moth #obidome #halloween #goth #着物 #帯