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safereturndoubtful · 9 months

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The Ness of Burravoe and Ladies Hole

Monday 31st July

40 days up in Shetland and I’ve been on an unintended healthier diet. That’s because I’m conserving gas. There are no LPG pumps in Shetland, so what I came up here with needs to last me until I’m back on the Scottish mainland. I do have a camping stove also, which would do to heat food and water up, but it would need to be used outdoors, so a less attractive option.

Therefore it’s been a ‘one pot’ menu, such things as noodles with veg, fried rice with veg, pasta with veg, omelettes, lentils with peppers or chicken, and I’ve some Auvergne dried sausage I throw in occasionally also. Nothing takes longer than 15 minutes. I use the gas also for a couple of coffees in the mornings and teas in the afternoon, so that’s about 10 litres of LPG, at a cost of about £6, which I am hoping will last 8 weeks. It’s done about that length of time before, so here’s hoping..

Burravoe residents are hugely proud of their pier (above). One the committee who maintain it told me how they run it as a business, charging for moorings, and services for boats, such as water, diesel, showers, and kitchen. On Sunday morning a small cruise ship stopped and smaller boats ferried their guests to the pier to see the local Haa museum and cafe. They also offer services for campervans, with hook-up electric and toilets and showers. With Uyeasound a close second, with its spectacular it’s the best such place to use in the islands. I parked away from the places used by motorhomes and other vans, not requiring any of the services.

The attraction for me here was the hike around the peninsula that is the Ness of Burravoe, with its hugely contrasting coastlines, the extremely calm leeward side, which is the reason the bay and pier are so popular, and the wild North Atlantic side. Storms from the east hot Shetland just as hard as from the west. The sheltered side is preferred by the otters, whereas the seals like the rocky inlets of the wild side. Orcas are around also, I keep an eye on the Facebook spotters sight in the hope I might be in the right place at the right time, but no luck yet.

Once done with the Ness the north bit of coastline is much higher and with spectacular cliffs, the first of such has the sort of name I used to collect when visiting, Ladies Hole (along with Twatt on Shetland mainland, Willies in Belgium, and Herbigunes in northern France). I must admit, they still amuse me these days even..

Ladies Hole is incorrectly named these days. It was once a vast hole like others around the islands, but now the ocean side of the hole has eroded and collapsed, so it’s more or a gash. Names stick though, and I can’t see it being changed any time soon. Some views of it below.

On my first hike of the three days, I walked up above it to a trigg point at the Heights of Ramnageo. A wizened local saw me and warned me that the cliff wasn’t fenced. Good of him, especially if it was my first such walk up here, but by now, Roja and I are quite used to it, and stay respectfully distant from any edge.

Further north from here are stacks which include the renowned Stack of the Horse, whose claim to fame is that it is still linked to the headland by a natural grassy bridge, of about a metre in width, with a 30 metre drop either side. Here I draw the line, not for me. Also below it is a natural arch, which under certain calm conditions a boat can be taken through.

We had great weather the four days I was at Burravoe, though on Sunday when I arrived the mist had set in. As it cleared on Monday morning, the views were tremendous. I will enlarge on what I mean by great weather, partly cloudy, usually more sun in the early morning and late evening, and a temperature hovering between about 12 and 15C.

A few visitors called in and chatted. There are a few cyclists of the North Sea Cycle Route who continue to Norway with a flight from Sumburgh in the south of Shetland (to Bergen with Logan Air). The old way to do it, until 2008, was with the ferry to Denmark, then continue north; these days, it’s Bergen and south. Most riders are north Europeans, and of course, the ride, with its wind and unanticipated hills, is far harder than they originally thought. There really are very few other tourists though.

The guy from the Manor House introduced himself. He lives in the rather grand, and huge, building alone, pictured below. It used to be occupied by the Laird, and therefore, with the Clearances and slavery, has a rather dodgy past. He is a reclusive wealthy guy who used to work in the City. A few other locals warned by about his lack of communication, but the couple of times he past, he stopped for a chat. It perhaps helped he was a cricket enthusiast, as I had the Test Match on the radio or TV both times.

This morning after another wander around the Ness, we filled up with water, took out the trash, and left for the ferry to the Mainland. At Brae I took the advantage of a decent sized supermarket, a Co-Op, about the same size as the one in Shap, then drove another twenty minutes to the Lunna peninsula. More on the that in a day or two..

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upvcpainting · 1 year

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#UPVC painters #UPVC restoration #recolouring UPVC windows #UPVC conservatory painting

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serseri-sair · 2 years

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Hamilton: Pardon me, are you Aaron Burr, sir?

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Her şiir ayrı bir gün batımı ; her gün batımı ayrı bir şiirdir.

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safereturndoubtful · 9 months

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Uyeasound

Friday 28th July

I’ve just spent a pleasant few days at Uyeasound, a naturally sheltered harbour on the south east coast of Unst. The van has been parked up on the pier, just opposite a French cafe and an old shop, but the shop closed down in 1678.

The ruin of a building once occupied by the shop, Greenwell’s Booth, is the oldest building in Unst, and was a trading post between the 12th and 17th centuries.

The French cafe operates without staff on an honesty basis, selling pates, crackers, cassoulet and snacks, as well as hot and cold drinks. There have been a few honesty cake fridges around, but this is the grandest of the lot. Despite the TV series, it seems Shetland is so untouched by crime that even the cash drawer can be left open.

There is also a Youth Hostel close by which offers camping and four electric hook-up pitches for vans and motorhomes. I was there for three nights, and only two other vans came along. A few locals and visitors came to use the cafe, and if they had dogs, which many did, we chatted with them.

On the first day we hiked down the coast south to the island’s far southeast corner, about four miles. I’m not a lot further south than the day we spent at the abandoned village of Framborg, and Easting beach. This less rugged coastline attracts more otters, and there were plenty, most choosing to scarper when they got a whiff of Roja, but a few tough ones remained to stare him out. The strong wind of the last days had gone also, and in the calmer waters often seals were lounging the morning away.

This house on the water’s edge is partly renovated. The glass front is an attractive prospect when a storm arrives..

This was a fine spell of weather, particularly the second day when we drove the few miles across to Lund Beach, and St Olaf’s Kirk, a ruined chapel. Here are the remains of a medieval church, and a burial ground with several stone crosses of the day. The church was built in the twelfth century and used until 1785. At present, the interior is closed off for safety reasons. Indeed, it does look like it’s about to fall down.

Lund Beach is my new favourite. It’s a fantastic half mile of golden sand with surrounded by hills and cliffs with splendid views out to a selection of tiny islands of bare rock. It is little visited, as it’s necessary to open and close three gates on the road across to it. Many opt not to bother, too much hard work.

I got talking to the gravedigger, who was also there to mow the grass, as well as preparing one grave. He was from Kent, and had retired, passed the job to his daughter and new partner, but he cursed them for being lazy. Taking to him in more detail, it was clear they didn’t like the grave-digging side of the role, between them, they had only done one, last winter, and a sleepless night afterwards had led to some mental issues. The guy I was chatting to just blamed the work ethos of the young.

This morning dawned as one of those Shetland days I had always thought of as very common, yet hadn’t experienced yet, a thick drizzly mist with visibility of about 10 metres. I’ve mentioned before, but the last time I was in Shetland, a brief passing through, was on route from the Faroes in the days the ferry used to call in here. The boat had left me at Tórshavn for 5 days and throughout that time the islands were in this sort of thick mist. I saw very little.

We moved on, taking the ferry south to Yell, and then meandering down the east coast. A few weeks ago we came up the west coast. After a stop at the Aywick shop, more like a department store in terms of what it stocks, we called in at a couple of potential destinations, Vatsetter and Osterwick, before settling down at the pier at Burravoe.

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alayinaduman · 5 years

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