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#some kefta redesigne
adriiivna · 2 months
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Alina and the Morozova Stag
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*Shadow and bone season 2 spoiler warning!!!*
It’s time to talk about the costumes in season 2. I did not think that it was possible to top what the costume department pulled of in season one but damn if they didn’t outdo themselves!!!!
Miracles were performed.
First of all, the Kefta redesigns for the Darkling’s grisha were absolutely brilliant. The costumes featured mostly the same colour choices to represent each order, but in darker tones and with different styles of embroidery to their Little Palace counterparts. This is a physical representation of their allegiance to the Darkling, creating a clear divide between his grisha and those loyal to Alina, but I think it could possibly also represent the fact that their power has been warped by an amplifier from someone born of merzost, since it means they no longer fit in with the other grisha. This could possibly even be foreshadowing the way Nina feels that she can no longer fit in with other grisha after her power is changed by parem, since she believes her new abilities to be closer to merzost than the small science. The new costuming for the Darkling’s grisha also includes a tattoo on their hands, and although I don’t want to talk about it in too much detail here because I’m planning a post with specific focus on that tattoo, I did want to mention it as a very interesting aspect of their appearances that once again separates them from the other grisha. The Darkling’s own Kefta has also been redesigned, I don’t have anything to say about it that hasn’t already been talked about by Ben Barnes and Jessie Mei Li in interviews and the costume department tour video, but basically they said that the gold detailing represents the tether and the way the Darkling and Alina now share some of each other’s powers and I absolutely love that detail!
What’s interesting about Genya’s costume is that she never gets a redesigned Kefta when she’s still with the Darkling, but returns to the red and blue she wore at the end of season one. This represents her allegiance not fully lying with the Darkling, or by this point not at all, but it’s also the Kefta she was wearing when Alina felt she had betrayed her; creating a painful and permanent reminder to the audience of the way Genya has been manipulated and abused even through the control of her friends so that she had no-one left to trust, or who she believes will trust her. No-one except David, who also never wears a redesigned Kefta. One of my favourite things about Genya’s costuming, however, was that they put her in her civilian clothes when she was attacked by the Darkling and the nichevo’ya. This was incredibly powerful, because it highlighted her complete lack of power: in this scene she was not a soldier, she was not a member of the Second Army or any kind of rebellion, she was not even a Tailor. In this scene she was just a girl who had been hurt, manipulated, and abused, and who had run out of places to hide. For me, it made this moment even more painful and even more powerful because it was her renouncing what she said to Alina - “I am his soldier” - and forcing the audience to witness her pain as exactly what Alina replied: “We are his pawns. Nothing more”.
The only thing I would change about Genya’s costuming, is that I would have given her a veil after the attack. For me reading the book, Genya’s veil became a brilliantly important symbol as a physical manifestation of her psychological progress. When she eventually sheds the veil, it is because she feels that she is safe to do so and it’s Alina that helps her come to that conclusion. Both seasons have proven to us that the costume department are FANTASTIC at bringing symbols and little details to life, and I think they could have had an absolute field day with this.
The only other thing about costumes written in my notes is “whoever gave Jesper a skirt deserves a raise, but could they have given him a skirt that went with the rest of the suit a bit better?” but honestly I’m rewatching right now and the combo of that suit and that skirt is growing on me.
…Sorry for yet another massively long post. I’m very excited.
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thebadgerclan · 2 years
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Freedom
Pairing: Zoya Nazyalenksy x Nikolai Lantsov
Summary:  With a new peace with the Fjerdans, Queen Zoya brings the captive Grisha home...
A/N: This takes place somewhere after RoW and before The Dragon and The Fox and The Dynasty’s Heir.  It’s a scene I thought of but have no real way of including in TDH.  So here it is
“I want this peace as much as you, Ambassador, but this is a point I will not bend on.”  The Queen sat with her arms folded over her chest, clearly defensive.  Nikolai sat at her side, his body language equally stand-offish.  “General, I-”  “‘Your Majesty’ will suffice, Ambassador.  Or ‘Queen Zoya’ if you like.  But Ambassador Ivar, I am not a general, I am a Queen, and you will treat me as such.”
“My apologies, Your Majesty.  But as I was saying, your so-called ‘Grisha’ are viewed by my countrymen as witches and heretics, and we cannot allow them to roam free.”  “You would do well to remember that I am also a Grisha, and these are my people you insult.”  Ivar breathed deeply, willing his temper down.  “Of course, ma’am, but Ravka has no right to dictate how Fjerda handles our criminals.”
Zoya sat up straighter, smoothing her blue corecloth kefta.  “I understand, and how you handle your own citizens is your concern.  However, I will repeat my terms.  Release all Ravkan Grisha in your custody, and we will turn a blind eye to the treatment of yours.”  It hurt Zoya to make such a bargain; her Grisha free but countless others living in slavery.  But it was one she had to make, she’d promised to bring them home, and she would do that if it cost her her life.  
Ambassador Ivar rose, extending a hand across the table.  Zoya and Nikolai did the same, and the Queen shook his extended hand, as did her fiance.  “Agreed,” Ivar said.  “Your wi- Grisha will be released at a place of your choosing.”  “Thank you.  Ulnesk, one week from today.  Keep in mind that I know each and every one of the Grisha you hold captive, and if they are not all accounted for, I-”  “Darling,” Nikolai interrupted.  “I believe the ambassador understands our terms.”  The Prince turned to the ambassador, his eyes hard as steel.  “Don’t you?”  Ivar nodded, his lips pursed.  “I do, Your Highness.”  “Well,” Zoya said, signaling to her guards stationed throughout the room.  “We shall see you in one week’s time.”
***
“Zoya, you don’t have to go,” Nikolai said for the umpteenth time.  “Our ambassador to Fjerdan will be there, as will Genya, Adrik, and Leoni, there’s no reason for you to make the journey.”  “No reason?” Zoya snapped.  “No reason?!  Nikolai, these are my people, the people who I promised to protect, who I promised to free!  This marks the beginning of our peace with Fjerda, if I’m not there…”  Nikolai moved to sit at her side, taking her hands in his.  “I know, Zoya.  It’s just, there’s no sure way of keeping you safe.  Some people, Ravkans and Fjerdans, aren’t happy about the war being over, or that you’re the Queen.  Someone could try to kill you, I just don’t want that happening.”
“I know that, Kolya,” Zoya said.  “Believe me, I do.  But I have to do this.  For myself, for my people, I have to be there to bring them home.”  “I understand, my love, but I’m still worried.”  Zoya smiled, leaning in and pressing a kiss to Nikolai’s cheek.  “I know you are.  But we’ll travel with a full squad of oprichniki as well as a Second Army regiment.  No one will even get close enough to hurt me, and if they do…”  She rolled up her sleeve, gesturing to the dragon scale fetters.  “They’ll have Juris and I to deal with.”
***
In total, 20 people accompanied the Queen and Prince to Ulnesk.  8 oprichniki, the Triumvirate, and 9 Second Army soldiers, hand selected for their deadly talents and prowess in battle.  No risk would be taken where the Queen was concerned.  Again, Zoya wore her corecloth kefta, this garment new and redesigned to resist puncture from blades as well as bullets.  Beneath it, she wore a dress of the same material, the chest reinforced twice over with corecloth.  Anything that  could harm Zoya would bounce off her kefta, the worst harm done being a sore spot and a bruise.  
Nikolai’s clothes were also interwoven with corecloth, as he was now a valuable target as well.  An entire regiment of men and women rode behind them, with horses in tow for the Grisha they would bring home, as well as carriages for any who were too unwell to ride.  Zoya’s knee bounced as they approached the border town, and Nikolai rested his hand on it.  “You’re going to be alright,” he reassured.  “They’re going to be alright.”  “I hope you’re right.”
Ambassador Ivar, a squad of drüskelle, and 20 Grisha hostages stood on their side of the border.  Zoya counted the Grisha three times, ensuring they were all accounted for.  By her count, they were, save for two, who she’d learned died in the Ice Court during their imprisonment.  But she was promised that their remains would be delivered to Os Alta to be properly buried.  The Queen slowed her horse to a stop and dismounted, Nikolai doing the same and trailing close behind her.
“Ambassador Ivar,” she said, her voice stern and regal.  “I’m glad to see you delivered on your promise.”  “Of course, Majesty.  But have you delivered on yours?”  Zoya raised a hand and three more oprichniki lugged a chest forward.  “As requested, the payment plus interest, for damages inflicted on your holy sites.  Conversion to your currency will be needed, and if there are insufficient funds, we will be more than happy to deliver the difference.”  
Ivar nodded, and his drüskelle  brought the Grisha forward, some wearing tattered kefta, some in roughspun, some wearing nothing but undergarments.  “May this peace be long and prosperous,” the ambassador said, stepping forward, just on the border between nations.  Zoya did the same, extending a hand.  “May this peace be long and prosperous,” she agreed, and in a show of symbolism, she took a single step into Fjerda.  Ivar did the same, taking a single step into Ravka.  
The two stepped back, shook hands, and parted ways.  At once, Zoys was ordering her soldiers and guards to distribute clean clothes, food, and water to the Grisha, and directed those who would be unable to ride to the carriages herself.  “My people,” she called, catching their attention.  “The atrocities you have been through cannot be described, and I am so very sorry for what you have experienced.  But you are home now, and you are safe.  You will all be welcomed at the Little Palace, where you may stay and recover, rest, and train your powers if you choose.  Or you may go; home to your families, or on to begin a new life.  But know this, as long as I am Queen, you will always be under my protection.  Not just as Grisha, but as Ravkans.”
The Grisha cheered, and Nikolai came to his fiance’s side.  “I’m so proud of you,” he said, kissing her temple.  “I have no doubt that you’ll lead this nation somewhere we’ve only dreamt of.”  “Thank you, Kolya,” Zoya responded.  “I couldn’t have done any of this without you.”  She kissed him quickly before mounting her white mare, turning back to see her people, her Grisha mounting horses of their own.  Nikolai urged his mount next to Zoya’s, looking at her with all the pride in the world  At her command, she and her people kicked their horses into motion, leading them, at last, home.
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