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#houppelande
kitseaton · 1 year
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My latest costume reference guide for artists has dropped! Available now on my Ko-Fi!
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Thanks for looking! 🐞🪲🐞🪲🐞🪲
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thegothicera · 3 months
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Fresco depicting a snowball fight in January at Castello Buonconsiglio, Trento, Italy, ca. 1405-1410
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arthmis · 2 years
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I went through my old files yesterday & found these dao redesigns from like? 2017 I think? I don't think I like some of these anymore so instead of remaking the whole thing I quickly sketched a new gown for Anora :) I think she'd look good in a houppelande
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ginkovskij · 4 months
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european fashion peaked with houppelande and everything made after it was a mistake
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crow-toes · 7 months
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Day 4 of OC-tober 2023: Redesign
Rhyann Kavanagh, half-elf fighter
This is a day where the sketch just didn't turn out - for a character I've always had a much harder time drawing than writing. I'm not happy with the anatomy and drawing itself, and I'm not settled on the redesign yet either. I have a different eye than I did during their original design process 7 years ago (the time flies!), and a much deeper understanding of the material that inspires their concept - but that doesn't always mean the art or decisions come easily.
I've been wanting to move my inspiration period for Rhyann (they/them) earlier in real-world history. As I've studied cultural, martial, and clothing history more, I've focused more around 1350-1500. I originally set Rhyann's inspiration in the early 1600s, but my interest just hasn't held as strongly there.
Here I've sketched them slightly more in an early renaissance/late medieval fashion, bringing in a fancy voluminous houppeland, winged spear/partisan, and a significantly earlier complex-hilted sword. There are so many in-period options, though, so I've done a few other studies and included more of my reference material.
OC-tober 2023 by bweirdart (prompt list)
Fave OC
New OC
Old OC
References:
Model: Andreja Pejic (image source unknown, way back in my files)
Houppelands (sources unknown, way back in my files)
Swords and daggers: Seven Embers Forge
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chiropteracupola · 2 years
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“will you make me the 3rd happiest man in connecticut rhysea and marry me?”
(the kings, @backagainpodcast)
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elegantwoes · 1 year
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Italy and France consistently show me they are the most fashionable ones in Europe no matter the era
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dresshistorynerd · 2 months
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This is kind of random, but would it have been a struggle for a big busted women to wear fashionable silhouettes in the medieval era? I’ve heard some costume historians discuss that there were forms of bust support, but most of what I’ve seen pre-1500s seems like it would have been a nightmare for any ancestor with a similar bodytype to wear. Am I just from a line of women doomed to horrible back pain? (On the flip side of the situation, I’ve found corsets and stays to be rather comfortable, so that’s not a problem)
As a fellow big boob haver, I have good news for you! There were pretty good Medieval bust supporting garments and I have tested one of them.
With sturdy fabric, tailoring and lacing you can create pretty good bust support. Lacing was popularized first in 12th century in form of bliaut, and in 14th century tailoring became standard for everyday garments. I don't know how well bliaut supported the bust, but since it doesn't fit super snugly, I assume it doesn't distribute the weight of the boobs as well as tailored supporting garments and therefore isn't as supportive. I'm also not actually sure if there was proper bust supporting garments before that, I haven't looked into it. I know Romans bound their breasts with cloth wrapped around the chest, so maybe that technique continued (at least for those who especially needed it) till lacing and tailoring became a thing. For more about how supporting garments developed in Europe through history, I have a post about development of lacing, which coincides pretty well with that history from 12th century forward.
Personally I have experience with Medieval Bathhouse dress, which was used in the Germanic Central-European area roughly in 14th to 16th century. It's called the Bathhouse dress because most depictions of it are from bathhouse settings, but there's depiction also in bed chambers and other contexts, so I think it's pretty safe to assume it was used more generally as an undergarment. It often had separate cups for the boobs (see the only extant garment left of it, the so called "Lengberg Castle Bra"), but not always. Unlike most other undergarments at the time, it was sort of a shift (the lowest layer) and a supporting garment combined into one.
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I sewed my own recreation of it (with some alterations because I made it for my everyday use, not as a historical recreation) and did a post about my results, where I go deeper into the history of the garment too. I didn't construct it very well and I did an error in the design of the back, which cause the strain of the shoulder straps to focus too much on very specific spots in the back panel, which eventually made the fabric there break too many times. (There were some other smaller design flaws too, like the waistline is lower than my natural waist so it rose and wrinkled annoyingly.) I did use it daily (except when I washed it) for a fairly long time though and it was super comfortable and helped a lot with back pain (and shoulder pain caused by use of modern bras). I hate that I've had to go back to modern bras because I haven't had the time to remake it yet. (I'll probably make a follow up post once I get around to it, where I go through the issues of the first version and how I addressed them in the next attempt.) Well fitted and shaped bodice which is then laced does surprisingly much even without any additional reinforcements.
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I haven't made a Medieval kirtle (though I will some day), but it was the more widely used Medieval supporting garment, which eventually replaced Bathhouse dress in the area where that was used. Kirtle is worn over a shift, but it broadly works similarly. Kirtles could be front, side or back laced depending on the time period and how the Kirtle was constructed. Multiple layers of kirtles could be used and looser overgarments (like houppelande) were often used on top of it. Kirtle was used by everyone, including men, but for those who didn't need bust support, it's purpose was mainly to create the fashionable silhouette. Here's three depictions of kirtles from 15th century. First unlaced, but has lacing on the front, second close up of the side lacing and third shows nicely how both front and side/backlacing shaped the bust.
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Morgan Donner is a costumer, who focuses a lot on Medieval costuming and has a big bust, so while I haven't personally tested the supportiveness of kirtle, she certainly has. The kirtle bodice part needs to be patterned to accommodate the breasts by giving it round shapes and the kirtle needs to be a little too small so there's room to lace it to fit well. Lining also helps to reinforce the fabric and make it more firm and supportive. Here's Morgan's pattern from the tutorial in her website and how the kirtle eventually fits for her. (Also look at the handsome boy in his handsome matching outfit.)
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She also has a video relating to the same kirtle project, where she explains her method to pattern a kirtle specifically so it's supportive for big bust.
In 16th century more stiffness was added to kirtles, first with very stiff lining and then with boning, but that doesn't necessarily add to the bust support, rather it just allows the kirtle to shape the bust and the body in general more and better support a heavy skirt. Firm fabric secured snugly with lacing is already very good at distributing the weight of the boobs to the whole torso.
In conclusion, at least since 14th century people with our body type were not doomed to eternal back pain and even before that some ways to help with it were probably used.
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artist-ellen · 3 months
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King Robert Baratheon
A huge man decked out in golds and blacks. I looked at men's fashion in the eras of Burgundians and Houppelandes. I did want a antler-crown but I couldn't get the antlers to look right so I went with a jeweled circlet, a more "casual" crown if you will.
I am the artist! Do not post without permission & credit! Thank you! Come visit me over on: instagram, tiktok or check out my coloring book \ („• ֊ •„) /
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marraiwa · 10 months
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hedvig, first half of 16th century
back then, there were a lot of regional differences in costumes in europe, but how they dressed in scandinavia is still the biggest mystery to me
so idk some flanders vibes and an old houppelande ??
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snailspng · 2 years
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Medieval/castle PNGs
(1. Houppelande / 2. Sacramentary / 3. Velvet pouch / 4. Leather belt bag (?) / 5. Castle / 6. Cloak pin / 7. Gargoyle / 8. Cow mouth shoes / 9. Amatory casket / 10. Illustration)
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thegothicera · 3 months
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Woman holding the Visconti coat-of-arms, Italian or French, early 15th century
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glad we agree. morgan in a bunch of houppelande designs i referenced of old illustrations of medeival women
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your-favourite-plague · 6 months
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I have fashion history classes at my uni and I thought Kikyo would slay in something Houppelande-inspired
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dualdeixis · 8 months
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[Image description: Digital drawings featuring a variety of characters from Octopath Traveler. There are full descriptions of all images under the cut. End image description.]
you know what? octopath is the only game i’ve ever played that accurately depicts what happens when you eat an olive. thank you octopath
[Image description: First is a drawing of Primrose, Ophilia, Kit, and Lyblac, with certain aspects of their designs altered. Primrose steps forward in a beguiling pose. She wears a red dress with a short, layered front and a long, flowing back. She wears gold jewelry including three rings on her right hand, a headband with a flower adornment, and a belt around her waist. Her knife is strapped to her right thigh and she wears medieval women's knee-high hose, black with red garters, beneath her sandals. A note next to her reads, "Elements taken from 15th century Italian illustration of dancers." Ophilia holds up her staff. A long lace veil covers her head and is tied beneath her chin. She wears a brooch on the left side of her cloak. The notes next to her read, "Mourning veil worn for varying lengths of time depending on relation (parent = 1 year). Mourning brooch of braided hair worn indefinitely by choice." Kit's design is much the same. He looks with slight wonder over at Lyblac, who stands tall with her hands clasped and a blood red halo around her head. She wears a black escoffion and a black and red houppelande with dagged sleeves.
Second is a drawing of Mattias, Esmeralda, and Lianna, with certain aspects of their designs altered. A note above Mattias and Esmeralda reads, "Obsidian fashion is ahead of the times (entirely because I mistook Mattias's sprite as having a ruff)." Along with the ruffs around his neck and wrists, Mattias wears a yellow doublet, orange jerkin, a gold necklace with a red jewel pendant, black paned trunkhose, a blue cape with a pattern of yellow stars, and a black cap with a blue feather. He has a confident expression, with one hand on his hip and the other splayed outwards. The note next to him reads, "If he's posing as a merchant he needs a stupid little hat and plume." Esmeralda holds up a black dagger in one hand and clenches the other into a fist with an irritated expression. She wears a French hood, a black gown with slashed sleeves, and gold jewelry around her neck and waist. The gown's skirt is full on the left side, layered and translucent in the middle, and has a slit on the right side to show the crow tattoo on her thigh. The note next to it reads, "Put it back." Then it points to Mattias's left leg and says, "He has it too." Lianna has a neutral expression as she holds up Aelfric's Lanthorn with a dark flame burning within. She wears the robes of a vestal of Galdera. The note next to her reads, "Love how he made her a special little anti-cleric outfit (takes off mourning veil)."
Third is a drawing of Alfyn smiling in profile, showing off his messy, dirty blonde hair with the sides shaved. To the right is a bouquet of seven white lilies. The text above them reads (in all caps), "Donio sam ja sedam ljiljana / Majko da li znaš još sam sam / Majko da li znaš još sam sam / Spava malena slatka glavica / Majko pokrila mi je travica / Majko pokrila mi je travica."
Fourth is a collection of doodles. 1. Lyblac and Kit stand in front of the Gate of Finis. Kit asks, "what are u trying to say." Lyblac points to the Gate with a smile and says, "go here." Kit asks, "in the dark ?" Lyblac says, "go in the dark." 2. Galdera says, "AND I'M BAD!" The souls around the Omniscient Eye say, "MEAN!! GREEN!! BAD!!" 3. To the left, Therion holds up a pair of rivet spectacles to his eye. To the right, he wears a paisley-patterned headscarf and a chador over it with a small smile. The text reads, "His chador swag. Based on an outfit my friend saw me wearing in a dream cuz I thought he'd look cute in it." 4. Two anthropomorphic birds wear cloaks and hold up staves. The first one has a neutral expression and the second looks more aggressive. The text reads, "My brother mistook Believer I + II in Seaside Grotto for bird people and now I wish they really were bird people." 5. A screenshot of a post by user tlirsgender: "Consider: a gay dude and a lesbian who are BEST friends and also dating the same person but not each other because they are a gay dude and a lesbian but their mutual partner has a weird enough gender for it to work. Polycule that’s lgbt like all at once." Beneath it, Alfyn and Primrose happily shake hands while Therion stands in the background with a neutral expression. The note next to them reads, "This concept is so funny to me that it kinda loops around to being compelling." 6. Cyrus smiles and quirks one eyebrow while pointing upwards. The text reads, "LOVE IS IN THE AIR? / WRONG! LIGHTNING BLAST." 7. Primrose leans back on a counter and Therion sits on a stool with his hands clasped. Both look miserable and share a thought bubble which says, "I'm the only bitch here who's incapable of love and sincerity." They glance at each other curiously, and then return to being miserable and sharing a thought bubble which says, "Nah I'm way more sick and twisted than you."
Last is a comic. In the midst of a battle, Ophilia holds up her staff and does 719 damage; Cyrus holds up a tome and does one hit of 1284 damage and another of 1365 damage; and Alfyn holds up his axe and does 649 damage. One enemy remains: a Creeping Treant with one shield and vulnerabilities to axe and fire. In the foreground, Therion says, "Alright..." He prepares a full-boosted Wildfire and says, "Time to end this." Cyrus shuts his tome and says blithely, "I think not. You shall do exactly 2 damage." Ophilia holds a hand over her mouth and blushes, saying, "Oh my, is the Professor teasing?" Alfyn laughs, "Pff, c'mon now, Therion knows what he's doin'!" Therion uses Wildfire on the Treant and breaks it, doing 2 damage. Therion, Alfyn, and Ophilia stand lined up and look very startled, while Cyrus smiles mildly and thinks, "Oh wow, for real? I literally just said that for no reason." The note beneath the comic reads, "*Based on a true story where I was Therion and my brother was Cyrus. I laughed so hard I cried." End image description.]
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arliedraws · 3 months
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I hope this isn't overstepping, feel free to ignore me, butI have a collection of references and inspiration I use when imaging HP fashion here: https://pin.it/6EDnHWClw
Since the WW split off Muggle society in the early 1700's (and WW society secretive and insular before that) I think they wouldn't adapt to local fashions as quick as prior to the statute. JKR based the robes off of depictions of wizards and witches in media (so stars on robes, pointy hats, very Halloween) but when I researched those depictions they seem to be based off what the educated men in medieval times would wear (i.e. the clergy). So I started there (11th - 18th century in Western Europe) for wizard clothing.
There's two types of the stereotypical witch I've seen depicted. The medieval witch/evil queen variety that looks to me like she's wearing a kirtle and dress/overdress on top for that quintessential medieval-lady look. Then there's the wicked Halloween witch depictions which seem to be based on 16th century women's dresses, with stays, apron, stockings, buckled shoes, etc. The Elizabethan look, basically, which was around the time witch hunts were very popular, so common depictions of witches would have been portraying women and what they would have worn for the time. 😅
Anyway, did JKR intend for historical accuracy when she imagined everyone at Hogwarts in maxi dresses, I mean robes and pointy hats? Maybe? I think she was basing it off of how witches and wizards were depicted when she was growing up, the campy, Halloween sort of depictions.
But I like to look at what inspired those depictions and start thinking about how an extremely secretive and insular community got to the point where even their adult men seem to not know how to wear trousers. I like a mix of 18th - 19th century clothing, as Muggleborns would have brought the Muggle fashions into the WW. The Weasley kids wear jeans, but as adults they seem to switch to robes. I like to think breeches and hose are probably worn by men, instead of trousers/jeans.
I love the houppelande silhouette, personally, so putting that on both wizards and witches in HP, especially the traditional pureblood ones that probably inherited ancestor's clothing) is a hobby for me.
Love this discussion! Not overstepping at all!!!! I don’t have a good response atm so I’ll share around :)
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