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apple-salad · 9 months

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Petticoats for Farutetto JSK

AKA an attempt at putting the butt in Farutetto..if I can say that?

Note: I will be referring to Farutetto as Faltetto in this post as MM has previously translated the dress name as such.

I'm honestly not really sure why I wrote this post, and I'm regretting it a little having finished writing it because the topic seems pointless, but if you like maximum poof, then maybe this niche blog topic is for you.

Related posts about farutetto/faltetto dress: Unboxing (2023 mist and navy), Mary Magdalene faltetto history (long), 1st coordinate post

Mary Magdalene's stock photos for Faltetto picture it bustled with a highly raised back, but they really left it as an exercise for the reader when it comes to achieving this effect ourselves.

Bustle-able skirts are common enough in classic lolita, but we don't have a lot of lolita petticoat options that provide a historical-style rump. Not to mention that the bustle effect going on above is quite extreme.

Some petticoats that I can think of that have increased back volume are Sheglit's Victorian pannier, and some of Victorian Maiden's old petticoats.

left: VM Hip Up Middle Tulle Pannier, right: VM Hip Up Pannier

The VM petticoats appear to be designed to be used with their bustle skirts, with a few extra tiers of hard tulle to help provide a slight volume to the outer skirt.

Sheglit Long Bustle Pannier

Sheglit's is similar, with a large amount of tulle gathered near the hips for an Edwardian silhouette. I don't own this petticoat, but it might work with faltetto if the petticoat is wide enough to stuff more volume underneath.

For me, I think these types of petticoats weren't quite going to cut it... I needed huge back poof. Or at least needed to try...

Here is faltetto without any petticoats. The dress itself has no additional volume built in, so it's pretty flat. The lining is as densely (or nearly) gathered as the outer chiffon, so you could argue it is giving a tiny bit of volume. But still, quite flat.

I have collected too many petticoats over the years and own about a million at this point, so note that the petticoats I am layering here are only a guide and should be achievable if you own 2 or 3 relatively poofy petticoats of your own.

I use a couple not very poofy petticoats as a base layer to help hold up the larger upper petticoat layers.

Layer 1 is a Malco Modes 580 ("Zooey"), which is a light-poof petti.

Layer 2: Just a deflated Mary Magdalene Pannier-skirt for a tiny bit more volume

You could probably use one decently poofy A-line or 1 quite poofy, slightly longer bell petti instead.

I layer a short bell shaped petticoat on top of these to give more volume to the upper portion of the skirt. A-line pettis tend to be quite bottom heavy and I think the delicate chiffon fabric of faltetto needs consistent support along its silhouette, or else it looks weird.

Layer 3 is AP's "short organdy pannier"

These are the base layers. Next I add a back cushion to help hold up all the layers that will follow. It helps a lot in creating a "shelf" effect at the back.

The cushion itself is made from kona cotton (scraps can also be used) with a pattern that I freehanded off of examples of edwardian back pads online. I don't think the exact shape matters that much--you could probably tie a literal tiny cushion to your hips. But the dimensions of this one are approximately this if you want to try it yourself:

You can round off the sides into a kind of 3-oval shape, or cut out a smooth semicircle, I don't think it will make much of a difference for this purpose.

After trying this setup with the upper layers added and finding the bustle effect not jutting out enough, I decided to add an extra volume layer just to the back. I don't have anything purpose-made right now, so I made do with a deflated bell shaped petticoat folded in half (and folded again slightly around the edges to keep the total pinned width about 3/4 of the waist) and pinned to the cushion.

The result so far is weird, but maybe it works...

The last actual petticoat layer is Angelic Pretty's "Long Organdy Pannier". I don't think AP makes these anymore, but they are a approx. 50cm long, gently bell-shaped petticoat designed for the longer dresses AP was releasing around 2016~2020. I find the longer length quite good for sweet-classic when the skirt of a JSK or OP is a little longer, or achieving a little more poof around the upper part of the skirt with certain longer classic pieces. It's not extremely poofy on its own, but I personally enjoy using it for various poof purposes.

Layer 6 or so (?) (AP Long Organdy Pannier)

This final petticoat layer also helps smooth out the bustle silhouette, from the front to the raised back.

Finally, on top of all that a tiered underskirt is layered on top. Faltetto doesn't have any built in underskirt (just a lining, which is expected to be bustled up with the main fabric), so it's more attractive to add some ruffles to the back that are visible when the skirt is lifted. Unfortunately, at this point the petticoats are so wide that I don't seem to have any underskirt wide enough for the entire circumference of the poof.

This is the result, but I actually wouldn't recommend positioning an underskirt like the above because the length of the underskirt didn't end up matching the length of the skirt, being quite a bit too short instead (and not really in a nice bustled looking way, in my opinion). In my initial worn photos, I instead fold the underskirt in half and pin it to the waistband of my petticoat (and then pin the underskirt up a little bit since doing this made it a bit too long), which kind of worked but also wasn't really a great solution. I might need to make my own super wide underskirt, or something...thoughts for another time.

Lastly, the dress can be added over top everything! And don't forget to bustle the dress. It's not an entirely intuitive process for first-timers, but there are loops on the back of the dress that you thread the bustle ties through and further tie into a knot. I might try to post a reel of this process eventually (and will update later if I do), but here are some pictures which muddily attempt to express how the bustle is tied:

It was about at this point that I realized that this JSK had a minor factory defect, but thankfully it was easily and very quickly fixed.

And so, here is how the dress looks with all those layers underneath from different angles!

From the front, it looks pretty much like a normal petticoat is being worn with it. I hope this is enough back poof, but what do you think...?

And here are some extra photos of this coordinate to show the set up worn. I can tell that this arrangement might not be very sustainable for a full day, so I will probably be tweaking the petticoat arrangement further in the future.

Last note: As you might be able to tell, I don't own any hoop or wire petticoats, so I can't really give good advice or opinions on where they would fit in here. A hoop skirt that has a rump in its silhouette would be historically on point and probably work quite well, but you would likely have to make a custom one with shorter length. I really don't know enough about mid 19th century fashion to comment on this either, though. But maybe I might attempt it some day!

#lolita fashion #mary magdalene #mary magdalene jp #faltetto jsk #farutetto jsk #lolita petticoats #farutetto #classic lolita

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pokeberry5 · 10 months

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TIMMY 🌈

the outfits were a result of anita, cissie and steph's combined efforts

(the red dress was his mom's)

crops under the cut:

#tim drake #dc #sart #happy pride to my fellow bisexual and otherwise ambiguously queer girlies #his favorite is the lolita dress bc it's actually the easiest to move in #all the others are tighter around the legs and inhibit mobility #also you can hide /so/ many things with those petticoats #i got so caught up in the euphoria of tim in 8 different dresses #that i forgot HOW LONG IT TAKES ME TO LINE THINGS #it's still june!!!

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toesuckler · 5 months

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#ollie rambles #im lolita. petticoats and crinolines and hoopskirt all the way baybeeee

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artemismacaron · 9 months

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Amy Rose with a Rose Petticoat!

It's always a joy to Collab with my best friend @cloudypouty !! Thanks for coming up with the idea and letting me color! 💚💕💜

Inspired by:

#Sonic the Hedgehog #sth #Amy Rose #rose petticoat #art collab #collab #cloudypouty #cloudy #bestie's art #my art #artie's art #lolita fashion #lolita inspired #egl fashion #egl inspired

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shopwitchvamp · 2 months

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Just pulled some more petticoats out of storage, so knee-length black ones are available in all sizes again!

🖤witchvamp.com🖤

#witch vamp #petticoat #petticoats #black petticoat #tulle #tulle skirt #restock #goth #gothic #gothic lolita #gothic aesthetic #black skirt #under skirt #fashion #clothing #online shopping #plus size friendly #dark aesthetic #cute skirt

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teaandmacaronsblog · 2 months

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#lifestyle lolita #lolita fashion #sweetlolitafashion #angelic pretty #melikestea #petticoats #sweet lolita #eglfashion #eglcommunity

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purpleincarnation · 28 days

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Purple sweet lolita vibes🪻🍦

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xxcherrycherixx · 6 months

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pov: you are cupid coming home from a party with your roommate and you're desperately trying to suppress the urge to kiss said roommate under the moonlight

#ever after high #blondie lockes #i either see blondie in lolita or 50's fashion #can not choose only one #either way theres petticoats involved lol #might draw a 50's cupid to go with her #i love 50's fashion sm its how i dress %70 of the time

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flamejob · 2 months

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#you can't see them in pics bc my petticoat is so big but i have on black knee socks with bows all over #lolita fashion #ok to rb #Spotify

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kitsunelike · 25 days

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happy autism awareness month are you aware of me

#💕#lolita fashion #sweet lolita #egl fashion #neither of my petticoats worked witj this dress #so i had to get out the adjustable hoop skirt #it was bad #actually autistic #autistic adult #idk what else to tah this im cutek #look at me

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porcelainerose · 5 months

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☆ my messed up world will thrill you

#upload ୨୧‎#lolita fashion #mine #my pic ♡#me #old school lolita #vivienne westwood #taobao brand #egl #egl community #im wearing a petticoat omg idk why we cant see it #my coord

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20dollarlolita · 1 year

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For people who are new, I have an entire tag on my blog called Petticoat Theory, which is about how construction of a petticoat impacts its final shape.

Okay, Petticoat Theory and _boringbb_'s petticoat she posted on tiktok, and how that relates to lolita fashion:

https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTRb5GQ9T/

When I do a puffy skirt, I want it to be cartoonishly over-the-top, big, comically puffy, and I have yet to find a petticoat on the market that gives me the look that I'm going for. So, here's how I make my petticoat. If you make one, you can just reuse it for a bunch of dresses, so, one-and-done kind of situation here. Normal petticoats, they start very close to your waist, and then they have more that go away from your body as you go down towards your feet. I go for the inverse. I come from a ballet background, so I really like the tutu look, which is just kind of what I recreated with this petticoat. I have two layers of crinoline, and there's three layers of those two layers of crinoline, if that makes sense. So it's folded-over crinoline one, two, three, and the puffiest layer is close to my waist, and it goes in towards my body as it goes towards my feet. Having this volume right by your waist will give you the nice puffy look you're going for.

I've had several people ask me questions about this petticoat, so here's my takes:

Full disclaimer: I can't argue with success. Julia made a petticoat that she loves the shape of, so I'm not about to say it doesn't work. The fact that I don't personally construct my petticoats like that should not impact that she gets the shape she wants from hers.

So Julia's petticoat is three doubled layers of poof, all attached to a slip. The reason it looks relatively unconventional, when viewed from a lolita fashion viewpoint, is that the layers get shorter the higher up they go.

This isn't how a lolita petticoat is constructed, even when we're trying to reach the same shape. And we are, in fact, trying to reach the same shape.

I think the reason this petticoat is making its rounds in lolita fashion circles is that it's so different-looking from what we're used to. We're very familiar with how we make monster cupcake poof, so we're all a little alarmed when some other method shows up.

So, let's talk about what this does that is similar to what we do, and what it does that is different:

Here's one of a few different ways that lolita fashion will make that shape. I'm grabbing this style because it's very similar to Julia's up there: it's several layers of poof sewn onto a slip. I did a tutorial for this method here, and I have a petticoat made with this method that I use for lower-poof applications:

This is my less-poofy petticoat entirely because I constructed it to be that way; I have a petticoat made by Wunderwelt that is sometimes just too much poof for some of my skirts, requiring me to construct a lower-poof petti. As you can see, I still get the bell/cupcake shape where there's volume at the waist. It's not as much volume as Julia, but that's because it's designed to fit the skirts I made it for.

There is nothing that stops a petticoat of this construction from being enormously poofy. If I had used something stiffer like petticoat net or crinoline, instead of the crystal organza that I used, it would be a much larger petticoat.

So, how is our petticoat constructed that is different from Julia's? The main thing is that all of our layers end a couple inches shorter than the hem of the skirt we will be wearing over them. Every layer of the petticoat hits at the same hem length. This means that the top layer is cut longer than the following layers, and the closer to the hem of the slip they are attached, the narrower the layer is. This does, in fact, fit Julia's description of "they start very close to your waist, and then they have more that go away from your body as you go down towards your feet." However, the fact that the top layer of the petticoat is gathered directly into the waist of the slip means that we do, actually, have quite a bit of poof in the waistband.

In fact, the only difference between this style of petticoat and the petticoat that Julia made is where the individual tiers of ruffles end.

Which asks the question: if we're attempting to reach the same shape, why do our petticoats look like they do, and Julia's petticoat looks like it does.

Why is it that we want all of the layers of our petticoat to end at the same place, and why is that place 3-6" above the hem of our skirt?

First of all, we have our petticoats end several inches above the hems of our skirts because we don't want our petticoats to show in lolita fashion. You don't go to a tea party with your underwear hanging out of your skirt, now, do you? But, if we don't want them seen, why do we even bring the poof all the way to the bottom of the skirt?

The answer is pretty simple: hem support. I would like everyone who is able to please go throw a bed sheet over your nearest floor lamp with a lamp shade.

Okay, so I only had a towel, but we do what me must with what we have. And what we have is a towel that is supported part way down its length, but with no support as we get to the hem.

When we move, we do not want our skirt hems to be out flopping in the air with no support. We don't want the skirt to drop off.

In addition, we generally want our bell-shaped skirts to be more y=-x^2 instead of a square wave. We want poof at the waist, because that is the thing that makes a cupcake petticoat the cupcake shape, but we also want the poof to continue all the way until the end of the skirt. This is the same reason that a hoop skirt supporting a ball gown has a hoop very near the hem of the dress. The dress and the shape of the dress needs support.

Now, Julia has also made a couple of follow-up videos on this:

and

Unfortunately, instagram does not allow me to pause the reel the way tiktok does, so I can't easily transcribe the audio in these. However, what they do show is that she often wears additional layers over her petticoat in order to smooth out the shape. These additional layers, in this case, are what she calls "standard petticoats". They are longer than her petticoat, and they have additional volume at the hem.

You can see in this image, where she is intentionally wearing a sheer garment so that we can see how the petticoat stack works, that she's brought support down to the hem of the garment, and that her outermost layer is longer than her other layers.

Basically, Julia does understand how to construct a petticoat. Having no exposure to lolita fashion, she was not aware that petticoats designed with a lot of volume at the waist exist, so she decided to create that shape herself. She was able to understand how to make the shape that she wanted, and she didn't construct it in the conventional method because she knew she was using it in conjunction with other garments to provide hem support and a smooth the overall look.

Julia understands petticoat theory just fine and y'all need to stop sending me this video expecting to tear her apart.

Julia, you get a solid B+ in today's Petticoat Theory class. Points are deducted for two reasons: the phrase "50's inspired" and the phrase "the tutu look." I'm not an expert on 50's fashion, but I have written an entire blog about why you can't use 50's petticoats to make a lolita shape, so I'm guessing the fact that she's made a solidly not bad lolita shape means it's not particularly 50's inspired.

The other thing is that tutus are absolutely made with the longest layer on top, so that the top looks smooth. The tutu gains its perfect flat shape from having each layer stacked onto a slightly shorter layer. Basically, if you have a very short piece of netting gathered onto a tutu panty, it will stick out on its own. So, if you just keep stacking a layer that's only a little longer than the last layer onto the previous layer, they'll support each other, and you can get your 12-15" top layer to stick out perfectly flat. I'm only mentioning this because a lot of people don't know this, or that a ballet tutu will stick out flat without any kind of hoop in it. I just think that's cool.

As for "her petticoat only works if there's another petticoat on top of it", that's also how hoop skirts, panniers, bustles, bum rolls, hip pads, and so many other undergarments work! It's completely legitimate and it seems to work fine!

BTW, Julia, I think you'd do AMAZING in lolita fashion, and if you ever want to try it, please reach out to me. I think you'd really like it.

Anyhow, it's not conventional, it's not 50's, and it's not a tutu, but Julia saw a problem in the petticoats that she had, and she built her own little petticoat-booster to solve that problem. Perfect understanding of petticoat theory. Let's move on.

#petticoat theory #20dollarlolita #lolita fashion

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porcelain-knees · 2 months

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