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#kataginu
tanuki-kimono · 1 month
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Samurai's ranks and dress code in Late Edo period
AMAZING reference chart put together by Nadeshico Rin, showing the different attires worn by the men of the buke class in and about Edo Castle. OP stresses the chart is by no means exhaustive - but it helps picturing things SO MUCH!
For easier reading, I have adapted the chart with english translation. Rin has also created illustrations detailing each attire, I'll translate those in coming days under the tag "samurai kimono".
You'll find the transliteration below cut:
The court ranks - Mibun 身分 or Ikai (位階)
Find more about the exact titles here.
一位 Ichii (First court rank)
三位 Sanmi (Third court rank) and 四位 Shii (Fourth court rank)
Goi 五位 (Fifth court rank​)
Omemie ijô 御目見 以上, the "upper" vassals allowed to request audience with the shogun
Omemie ika 御目見 以下, the "lesser" vassals (not allowed to request audience with the shogun)
Rin does not mention the second court rank (二位 Nii) so I am not sure where this one is supposed to go ^^;
The clan/families - Kamei 家名
徳川将軍家 Tokugawa shôgunke (Tokugawa Shogun clan)
尾張徳川家 Owari Tokugawake (Owari Tokugawa clan), 紀伊徳川家 Kii Tokugawake (Kii Tokugawa clan), 水戸徳川家 Mito Tokugawake (Mito Tokugawa clan), 徳川御三卿 Tokugawa gosankyo (Secondary Tokugawa branch clans: Tayasu, Shimizu, and Hitotsubashi)
三奉行 Sanbugyô, & 下三奉行 Shimosan bugyô (magistrates, governors)
旗本 Hatamoto (general term for upper-rank vassals of the Tokugawa)
御家人 Gokenin (general term for lower-rank vassals of the Tokugawa)
Outfits TPO (Time, Place, Occasion)
第一礼服 (大礼 など) Daiichi raifuku (tairei nado) - Most formal outfit worn during State/important ceremonies, etc.
礼服 (正月など) Raifuku (Shogatsu nado) - Formal outfit, worn for events like New Year, etc.
通常礼服 (節句など) Tsûjô raifuku (sekku nado) - Regular formal outfit, worn during seasonal festivals, etc.
平服 Heifuku - Everyday outfit
Type of outfits
Rin has released separated charts detailing the different costumes. You'll find them translated here in coming days.
束帯 Sokutai - old ceremonial court dress, first worn by Heian nobility. Attire includes the 笏 shaku (flat ritual sceptre), and 冠 kanmuri hat.
衣冠 Ikan - old ceremonial court dress, much more simpler than sokutai
布衣 Hoi - "plain" 狩衣 kariginu (which were informal clothes worn by the nobility from the Heian period and onwards)
素襖 Suô - ceremonial dress of the lower-ranked samurai
直垂 Hitatare - ceremonial court robe​
狩衣 Kariginu - patterned kariginu (informal clothes worn by the nobility from the Heian period and onwards)
大紋 Daimon - 直垂 hitatare with large family crests
直衣 Nôshi - everyday robes which were first worn by males of the imperial family during Heian era, and then spread among nobility, etc.
長上下 Naga Kamishimo - outfit pairing a sleeveless ceremonial robe called 肩衣 kataginu, with trailing pants called 長袴 nagabakama
半上下 Han Kamishimo - outfit pairing a sleeveless ceremonial robe called 肩衣 kataginu, with ankle lenght pants called 半袴 hanbakama
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gomiworm · 1 year
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felt like drawing some historical costumes and what better muse than the demon ocs
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atlaculture · 5 months
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Live-Action Promo Pics: Iroh
Hi everyone, I know I’m pretty late to the party, but I just wanted to give my two cents on the costuming for the second batch of promo pics we got last month. Afterwards, I’m going to be doing a very thorough breakdown of both the fresh and familiar elements showcased in the new trailer. I’ll also be giving my two cents on the casting for the adult characters, as I feel they’re far along enough into their careers to not care what some random person on Tumblr thinks of them.
Iroh
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What I Liked
I know it’s not costume-related, but I have zero issues with Paul Sun-Hyung Lee as Iroh. It’s picture-perfect casting, as he’s about as close to a real-life Iroh as you can get.
Like with Ozai, the facial hair is spot-on. As I mentioned in the previous post, Asian facial hair tends to get bushier once the hair turns white. The makeup artists for this adaption did a good job of capturing this phenomenon.
I like the pattern on Iroh’s vest. It reminds me of the kind of interlocking, geometric designs you see on traditional Japanese fabrics.
The construction of the vest also feels very Japanese-inspired. Although less exaggerated, the pleated shoulders remind me of a kataginu, an over-vest that was traditionally worn by Japanese noblemen and samurai. It’s an appropriate inspiration for the Fire Nation royal with the most decorated military past.
I also appreciate how worn the trim on his robes look. Given that he’s been out at sea alongside his nephew for three years, it makes sense that even his finer clothing would look a little dingy.
What I Didn’t Care For
I wish the shoulders of his vest were a little broader and more dramatic, like the kataginu that inspired them. This is just a personal preference, but I think it would really hammer home Iroh’s past as former crown prince and accomplished general.
The red parts of his robe could be a bit dingier looking.
Overall, I would give Iroh’s live action look 9 teapots out of 10: Almost Perfect.
Surprisingly, I think I prefer this look over his Book 1 armor look. I’m a sucker for a good vest. Hopefully, we’ll see a few more Grade A designs from the Netflix adaption.
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scarpuppi · 1 year
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Kokushibo Redesign
Concept art and drabbles under the cut. Warning for spoilers!
I wanted to draw him in a formal style that was popular amongst samurai of the Sengoku Period. The kataginu is meant to be tucked into the nagabakama but I wanted a more casual look I decided to give him nagabakama instead of hakama because I like the idea of him moving around slowly. Also, if he grows, they will look like hakama!
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I also gave him a wakizashi (short sword). It was typical for samurai to have both a katana and a wakizashi. That said, I think Kokushibo would come to resent the sword after his transformation. It is a symbol of his inadequacy compared to Yoriichi as well as a reminder of how he was fated to die young.
So, I have this idea that he would delegate his blades to extensions of himself! He could separate himself into three parts, one for each pair of eyes. His upper pair representing yang energy, the lower pair representing yin energy. I’m a big fan of hinamatsuri dolls so I designed the counterparts to be reminiscent of them. I think it would be an interesting comparison to Yoriichi Type 0. I had an idea that they might actually be small dolls that Kokushibo carved himself, then he just transfers flesh to them as he does his sword.
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I wanted to play with different shapes for the dolls and make them distinctly different. Yang energy is connected to masculinity, positivity, and sharp angles. Yin energy is connected to femininity, negativity, and curved shapes. I gave them small hands to make them appear more delicate. But they’re anything but!
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"Kamishimo" 裃 is the grey part of the outfit the man is wearing, which is a matching set of kataginu (the "sleeveless vest") and hakama.
The term literally means "up and down", and it used to refer to any set of top and bottom with matching fabrics in older time period. However, entering the Edo period, it specifically refers to this "samurai uniform", so to speak. I'm not too clear if this is already an exclusive term during the Sengoku, but never mind that for the story.
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"Uchikake" 打掛 is the beautiful outer coat of the woman's outfit, as mentioned in the story. "Short-sleeved" kimono is called kosode 小袖, because the sleeves are shorter than the "standard" wear of the upper class of the older aristocratic eras (uchikake is one of them).
Kosode originally is a "commoner wear", but is eventually adopted as regular wear by the samurai class too. The blue part of what the man wears is also a kosode.
In many ways, "kosode" is essentially the equivalent of "standard kimono" that people usually know of today. Some websites say that modern kimono is longer than "kosode", as in the kosode maybe reaches only around mid-calf, while the modern kimono goes down to the ankles.
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every-orochimaru · 6 months
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Pajamas - Iconic snake detailing - Seen several times throughout the series - Look comfortable
Kataginu - Casual samurai look - Has the same snake detailing as PJs - Very boxy shoulders
ref for snake detailing under the cut
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odaclan · 8 months
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Back when the cast photos were released, I commented that I thought the costume department dressed up Nobukatsu in an outfit that is meant to be reminiscent of the classic Nobunaga painting in green, white, and red outfit.
I hadn't been entirely sure, then, because the lighting made the green "vest" look a little yellowish, but in the actual scenes it's more clearly visible that it's green.
I also mentioned that I think he looks very much like Sometani's Nobunaga from the Kirin ga Kuru drama.
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Dousuru's Nobukatsu was wearing is some sort sleeveless attire that is tied in the middle, as opposed to a the standard kataginu depicted in the Nobunaga painting. In Kirin, Nobunaga most often wears a doubuku (Sengoku era haori), which has that exact same cloth ties, so I was wondering if it was done with the intention of emphasising the resemblance.
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However, Ieyasu also wears this exact same stringed "vest" in Dousuru, so perhaps I was actually wrong.
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On the subject of attire, though.
That "vest" with the strings to tie it close, which is called chanchan or denchi, is actually not only quite anachronistic (dates to at least the late 1600s or 1700s Edo period), but very pedestrian. It's worn by street hawkers and peddlers, and it was said to have been "invented" because the sleeves of normal haori or doubuku would just get in the way of them working.
It's highly popularised as the costume of "Mitokoumon", when he's out in "commoner disguise", and also a classic special birthday gifts for senior citizens (for "special numbered" ages like 60, 70, 80, etc).
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Taiga drama isn't necessarily the most historically accurate when it comes to costumes, but I am kind of curious if there's a special reason behind this or if it's just "it looks nice". NHK's website every now and then posts the concept art for the costumes and sometimes they would go into details for the reasoning behind specific designs.
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ruakichan · 5 months
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once again i sit here in contemplation on how the hell those ornaments are attached to ssn's kataginu
i'm looking at the ingame model and the design sheet and i just don't know and i don't think anyone else did either
so i guess
electromagnetism
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daeva-agas · 8 months
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I kind of like the idea of Dousuru costuming Nobukatsu with an outfit that looks like the Meme Fodder Nobunaga painting, but I just reaaaaally don't like that Mitokomon sleeveless haori (chanchanko) that they used.
So if someone told me to redesign that costume to my own preference, these are my (very biased) offerings:
A) Very Strictly Historical: Just a standard daimon hitatare, but keeping the same colour scheme. Nothing special here.
B) Going Ham With Fancy: A Noh costume style kataginu and hakama, but cut to the wearer's size instead of big and bulky. The kataginu and hakama are embroidered with fancier designs, and a patterned kosode is worn underneath.
C) Ahistorical, but Relatively Simple: Based on a suou, a samurai formal wear, with the sleeves removed to be reminiscent of a kataginu. The sleeve slits are placed on the kosode, revealing the red innermost kimono/juban (may give the impression of slash wounds, can be used for dramatic flair/symbolism). This kind of design risks inviting protests from history-conscious viewers for being "weird", although maybe creative framing and camera cuts can distract the viewers from noticing.
D) Just Messing Around Now: Based on a suikan, a nobleman's attire that's also a Noh costume staple. Tied in the kind of casual tarikubi manner, to also make it more reminiscent of kataginu. It's a combination of the B and C concepts (Noh costume + formal wear), basically. Least likely to be acceptable for a Taiga drama, is probably more suitable for a fantasy/anime type of story.
(Designed for the role of Nobukatsu, despite the colour scheme, not Nobunaga)
(I also don't really like the actor cast in the role in Dousuru TBH, and the way the character is written, but that's another story)
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octo-jerky · 1 year
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despite the fact that scaramouche told nahida and the traveler he’d help them from now on, he couldn’t be rid of the agony he felt inside of him after finding out the truth about what happened.
that the one he loved and cared about most had been murdered in cold blood. that he’d been fed a lie that outraged him for hundreds of years, making him suffer emotionally and take many innocent lives. that after all the pain he went through, whether it was being experimented on by dottore or getting mutilated in the abyss, he ended up being abandoned once more.
despite the fact he wasn’t truly alone, it brought no comfort to him. he was truly dead inside.
so one day, when no one is around, he slips away and goes back to inazuma.
he sluggishly makes his way into the city where he steals a kataginu along with a katsugi, puts them on, and then goes to tataratsuna. he approaches the shakkei pavilion, exhausted and dispassionate as he steps inside.
he closes the door behind him before laying down in the middle of the floor, curling in on himself. he closes his eyes, feeling tears break out and run down his cheeks. he doesn’t move.
several days go by. days then turn into weeks, then months. even when terrible storms come through, pouring rain assaulting him through the windows and cracks and causing him to shiver, he makes no attempt to move. he just lays still, as if he was asleep.
his creator had deemed him a failure and left him here, and he was never supposed to wake up in the first place. so this must be where he was meant to stay, forever.
he was nothing more than a discarded doll, no matter how much he tried to change his fate. he realized that now.
so he stopped trying.
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samurailogic · 1 year
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OK. A very scuffed and crude base draft for my VY designs. I shall try to explain myself under the cut 
OK first off le BabymetaI influences are very obvious I know. Which I think is what might’ve caused me to give them such limited palettes and make them very very very matching.. I do mean to amend the former but I think it’s neat so their overall palettes probably won’t breach beyond like, two colors + black & a nice accent color which will probably end up being blue. And obvio I made them very matching because they’re paired/partner vocals lol. So in this.. iteration? They have basically identical outfits but flipped. Yuma’s spiked (I know I accidently wrote “studded” on the image instead) bracelet is on their right wrist, so Mizki’s bracelet is on their left wrist. Yuma’s mole is under their left eye, so Mizki’s is under their right. So on and so forth. And also I forgot to make their jackets also spiked along the collar/zipper line..
Another thing is that I want to make them quite androgynous (’cause, y’know, sex & genderless.) and so I’m giving them hakama pants because I think it’s fitting how from a distance they kind of look like a very long pleated skirt. And I just want to give them kind of loose-fitting ish clothing to sort of “smooth out” any bodily curves. I also initially planned on giving Mizki a very long hime cut but I figured it’d be a bit predictable and well, not generally the most ‘androgynous’. And obviously there comes sort of traditional Japanese influences but I kind of ended up neglecting that other than the obvious parts (hakama pants, obi, Mizki’s hair ornaments, etc etc) lolol. I did have an original Yuma design that was much, much more samurai-ish (but I wanted to depict Yuma abit like Nagone Mako in that they would be a samurai that was quite reluctant to do their work and would rather spend their time singing and performing) but I scrapped it because I felt I couldn’t fit in Mizki alongside them well enough (and also because I was scared I made Yuma look too much like Gackpo). I really want to emphasize their status as a pair.
Other than what I’ve already said I think I want to.. Maybe modernize them a little bit. I thought about giving them arm warmers and have the armpit exposed rather than the wide sleeves, but I feel like detached sleeves and arm warmers are already pretty.. played out in VocaIoid designs. I don’t want to follow the Miku formula, if you couldn’t tell. I guess if I could sum my intentions up it might be something like, two performers from somewhere around the Edo period who somehow end up in the Heisei era and take a very delighted interest in modern EDM. (EDM by reason of my personal tastes and also the VYs demos all being very techno-y songs. Saiba Sanda Saida and all that)
But contrasting that, I thought about giving them a couple more samurai elements. Like maybe somehow incorporating kataginu. But eh. (also, if you can’t tell, I’m not the most knowledgeable on Japan’s fashion history)
I didn’t think too much about personalities or anything, just emphasizing their status as a pair but still contrasting them. I have always kind of envisioned Mizki as the ‘elder [sibling]’ of the two, though. Also, I kind of envision them as weirdos who might be a bit sheltered, and are just strange and very ‘in their own world’ in a way. Which I guess kind of goes with my original Yuma concept. They’re both people who have duties, but would rather go on their own doing what they like, which might result in them seeming like slackers. Silly! Also, I’m very on the fence about the hair colors. Pink is a must, though.
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tanuki-kimono · 1 month
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Everyday wear for the warrior class - Nagakamishimo and Hankamishimo
(as worn by samurai of the Edo period - great charts by Nadeshico Rin). You can find more about samurai ranks and their regulated attires under the tag "samurai kimono".
The Nagakamishimo (here with noshime)
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長上下 Nagakamishimo was worn by all upper ranked samurai.
肩衣 Kataginu - sleeveless overvest, with startched shoulders. It bore back and shoulder 紋 mon (family crests). It's said to be an evolution of 素襖 Suô attire with detached sleeves. Formal ones were also entirely covered with tiny dyed patterns, the 小紋 komon (clans tended to have their favourite ones, used by all their retainers).
長袴 Nagabakama - hakama pants with long trailing legs. Formal look required it to match the kataginu.
熨斗目 Noshime - kosode (=ancestor of the kimono) with stripes or lattice pattern at waist area. Note the mon family crest on the sleeves and back. Noshime was also worn under more formal sets, like the daimon, suô, hoi, etc.
小さ刀 Chîsagatana - small katana
The Hankamishimo
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Also called 継上下 tsugi-gamishimo, 半上下 hankamishimo is the official everyday wear for all Edo period samurai.
Main difference with nagakamishimo are the shorter pants, far more suited to everyday life. Colors and fabrics were not especially regulated.
半袴 Hanbakama - ankle lenght pants, shorter than the more formal nagabakama. Today, it's simply called hakama.
脇差 Wakizashi - short sword worn by samurai​, depending on the era is part of the 大小 daishô (sword set with a katana and wakizashi)
紋付小袖 Montsuki-kosode - kosode (=ancestor of the kimono) adorned with family crest
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kozyndan · 1 year
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Dan: We understood Llanowar Elves card in our @mtgsecretlair “Another Story” (non-lands) drop only as “cool warrior elves of the woods” - which obviously sounds BADASS to me. Our backyard has a forest of sorts, but its mostly an endless dense bamboo grove that I spent a year cleaning out of dead fallen bamboo culms. It made sense to me then to set this illustration in a bamboo forest (especially considering their prevalence here in Japan). The central elf has his overcoat (kataginu) emblazoned with the same crest (kamon) that is on our own kura (home storage house). I gave each elf a forehead tattoo based on animals we see (or at least find evidence of) in our village - boards, deer, tank, fox, and rabbit (of course). If you are a Magic player or a kozyndan fan (or both!), consider pre-ordering a set! 
They are available only until January 6th. AVAILABLE HERE!
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dreamerkitty · 2 years
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The Blood of an Oni - Chapter 4
Chapter 1
Chapter 2
Chapter 3
"Onigama-! Onigama-!"
"Ah.. That voice.. It's so familiar.." I clutched at the sheets, smiling at the thought.
"Onigama, what the hell are you doing, get up!" I sat up quickly, rubbing my eyes, my surroundings were different. The room was empty and the house was pristine.
"What the fuck, stop ignoring me!" I turned quickly, someone was standing in the doorway. I gasped, standing up suddenly.
"Onigumo-!" It was him. Tall, muscular, and with a fierce scowl. "You-You're-!"
"Yeah, what about it? You need to get up, I want to go out." His face was sharp and his eyes narrow, deep red hair with streaks of yellow fell down the sides of his head, the rest tied into a high ponytail. He wore a black kataginu and clothes similar to the small Onigumo I’d seen not long ago.
I couldn't believe it... Something must've finally changed. I quickly put my kimono top on but left my hair down and ran after him. To my surprise as I came outside everything was different... Before me were rolling hills with multicoloured flowers between the long grass, there were trees off in the distance and I could hear a river nearby.
"Gama-!" Onigumo glared at me, his arms crossed.
"G-Gama.." I smiled at the name, repeating it under my breath.
"S-Stop daydreaming!" He snapped, grabbing my wrist, "I wanted to go to that lake today and we're going, you hear me?!"
"Of course!" I smiled, his voice comforted me.
We walked through the fields, I wanted to stop and take it all in but Onigumo was pulling me along. I liked this, he was taller than me, stronger than me. I didn't have to protect him, he protected me.
It wasn't long before the lake came into view, it was surrounded by coloured flowers and the bright blue sky reflected beautifully in the water. Onigumo let go of my hand, running down the slope. I stayed there, taking it all in.
"What's wrong with you today?!" Onigumo's shout broke my fantasy. I hadn't noticed he'd clambered back up, scowling at me again. "Don't ruin today, you hear me?!"
"Don't you want to savor the view?" I smiled, gesturing at the scenery,
"I can take it in later!" He sighed, then without warning he reached behind me, lifting me into his arms. I quickly wrapped my arms around him, feeling my cheeks flush momentarily.
"I should've done this before, you're being a prissy dreamer today. I wanna do what I want, not sightsee." He ran back down the slope and through the flowers, I still gazed at them in awe, even if we did move by a little quickly.
Eventually he stopped, putting me down,
"What did you want to do then?" I turned to him, smiling, but he looked away quickly.
"I'm not gonna tell you if you're gonna forget." Onigumo knelt down and began shifting aside the long grass. I felt a little confused but just sat by myself, looking over the lake. It felt like a long time, the few clouds drifted by and I could hear Onigumo moving about in the grass behind me.
"Okay, fine! I guess you did totally forget! I want a rabbit!" Onigumo called from behind me. I turned to him, a little shocked, he was a little way away now, "So come fucking help me, cause we're not leaving till I get one!"
"What, for a pet?"
"Of course for a pet you idiot!" I laughed, walking over, "I already checked there, go somewhere else-!"
"Okay, okay!" I walked a little further away, shifting the grass aside with my foot as I went. I had no idea where rabbits lived and didn't know if Onigumo knew either but I was more than happy to help.
More clouds were drifting by now and the breeze had picked up slightly, I turned to call for Onigumo but he was already walking over,
"Any luck?"
"What do you fucking think, is there a bunny in my arms?" I laughed, standing up. Onigumo smirked, putting his hands on his hips.
"I guess you'll have to do for now.."
"W-What do you mean?" He walked behind me, slowly wrapping his arms around my waist,
"You'll still be my pet before I get a bunny.." I felt my face flush a bright red as he rested his head on my shoulder, his grip getting tighter. "I'm so happy you're mine, Gama.. You weren't happy with that army anyway, were you?"
"Army..?" I muttered, glancing at him in the corner of my eye.
"Geez, you get up wrong today or something? You've forgotten everything!" Onigumo let go, walking around so he was right in front of me, "Don't you remember when we first met.." He lowered his head, grinning widely, I began to step back but he grabbed me by the wrist again, "I couldn't resist, you were just so cute - even smaller back then too. So I kidnapped you! Now our armies are one, win-win I think!"
"W-What?! I don't remember-!" Onigumo suddenly pulled me close, pressing two fingers to my mouth,
"You don't need to remember, 'cause we're together now, and that's all I need to be happy..."
"You're happy too, right?"
"Right?"
"Onigama?!"
I opened my eyes suddenly.
"O-Onigama-!" I looked towards the voice slowly, Onigumo was leaning over me, his face in deep worry. "Are you okay? I heard you talking so I came in and you're-" It was small Onigumo. "You were crying..." He muttered, looking away nervously. I lifted my hand to my face, he was right, it was damp as well as hot.
"Did you.. Have a nightmare?" Onigumo looked back at me, I hadn't realised he was clutching my other hand.
"N-no.. I'm sorry I scared you.." I sat up, rubbing the back of my neck, Onigumo still stayed close, he seemed worried.
"Can I get you something, you could have a bath… O-Or I could try make something... " I looked down at him, "Ah-sorry.. You probably want to be left alone..."
"No, I-I actually had an idea of what we can do today." Onigumo looked a little surprised, "I hope it'll go well... But... It's a treat, just for you." He leant back in shock,
"W-what do you mean?"
"I remembered this place I used to go to... I think you'll like it." I turned to him, smiling. Without warning Onigumo jumped into me, hugging me tightly. I almost fell back, but put an arm out behind me just in time. He buried his face in my chest, I could feel the damp of his tears.
"Thank you-!"
"Onigumo, why are you crying?" I lifted his head up slightly and he wiped his face with the sleeve of his kimono, "I-I had a nightmare.. Where you left me... And never came back... S-So thank you for being so nice to me now!" He leant on my chest again, crying harder, I stroked his hair, remembering my own dream.
"It was just a dream Onigumo... It's not real... "
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kscosplaycatalog · 1 month
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No. 17 - 2012
Character: Erza Scarlet (Armorless ver.)  Series: Fairy Tail by Mashima Hiro
Cosplayer Credits: - Natsu : My brother - Gray : Jaiden - Lucy : Eridan
Photog Credits: - Axel - David Ho - Nikki Smith Photography
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This is genuinely one of my absolute favorite costumes, and one of the ones I'm still so proud of today!
Like Shiki, I decided to make this particular version of Erza's because I saw an opportunity to make something I'd always wanted to make: a hakama! Does she actually wear a hakama? Not really, but who cares?! 
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My wig is from Epic Cosplay Wigs. The top is two parts. The first was made from white spandex and is essentially a tube top. I then cover it with drug-store gauze that sticks to itself once it's in place. The bottom, which you can't really see, is made from the same white spandex as the top. I made a pattern from a pair of tights I already had only it goes down to just before my knees.
The hakama is made from red denim-like cotton. I used Folkwear pattern 151, Hakama and Kataginu. I used appliqué (HeatnBond Lite) for the flames at the bottom; the fabrics were similar to the red. For my back board, I fused some spare red to a few pieces of 16th of an inch-thick piece of interfacing. It is washable this way but still stiff as a board and bendable like professional hakama.
I originally wanted to do the tattoo with Hollywood Ink Henna pens and a stencil, but when we got to the convention Friday, we saw they had temporary tattoos in all of the colors we needed and we figured that'd be easier and faster. Plus, most of us were wearing things the next day that would've shown the guildmark so we didn't want them to clash. I later bought actual temp tattoo pens from Stargazers.
I made Benizakura to go with this costume in 2017. It is made of 1/4 plywood for the core blade and hilt. The tsuba (guard) is made of 3/4 plywood that I sanded down to about 5/16 of an inch. I also sanded the hilt pieces from 1/4 to about 1/8 so the hilt came to 1/2 an inch. I used thin foam to finish the designs: the over-layer on the tsuba, the swirls on the hilt, and the pummel. Lastly, the tassel is made out of actual tassel, three wooden craft beads painted red, and screw in loop painted gold. The tassel was beaded and then, after strung through the loop, glue into the top bead.
And speaking of late add-ons... I also didn't have the time to make her earrings but I did eventually, so look out for them in some of these shots. They are made out of a half-inch square acrylic rod that I sanded down using a grinder wheel. A friend carefully drilled a small hole for the wire that I twisted, covered with a bead, and attached to a clamp earring, since I don't have pierced ears. Everything was spray painted to match.
Now my brother's costume was also a lot of fun to make. Aside from his height, he really does have a lot in common with Natsu, so it was a lot of fun to be these two. We got the wig from Fantasy Sheep on eBay; came pre-styled.
The scarf was made out of white fleece. Essentially, I made a pillowcase-like piece, inserted a thin layer of polyfoam, sewed the fringes between the "pillowcase"'s sides as it was shut, and sewed the different sections with black thread. I'm very proud of it because it bulges up and sections off like the references.
I used dark navy blue broadcloth for the front fabric and I insisted it should be reversable as per the Tenroujima Arc, I used grey broadcloth as the lining fabric. The trim is gold poly-cotton. I modified a simple shirt pattern I already had as the vest was not very complicated. We actually bought both the belt buckle and interchangeable belt from PiercingPros on Amazon.
Same fabric and idea as the vest, for the "skirt." I measured his waist, marking the middle, and then halving that measurement to add to it to get the bottom measurement, lining up the middles. (In case that was confusing, here's a formula: W = waist measurement; B = Bottom measurement; W + (W/2) = B) It connects at the top, under the belt with hook-n-eye clasps.
I modified the pants pattern from Kouma. I used white broadcloth held up with an elastic waistband. The calf ties are extra navy broadcloth fashioned like trim after bunching the ends of the pants and have hook and eye clasps on the inside seam. The knots are made separately and then sewn into place They were actually made by my friend Kirky.
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Erza: Cost: $60 Time: 16 hrs
Natsu: Cost: $60 Time: 10 hrs
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shelikescloth · 3 months
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Historical Jedi Cosplay Part 3
Ok! After analyzing SEVERAL lady jedi's costumes, I'm ready for the part where I collect real-life historical eras that I think are prime territory for a Jedi costume.
(This will be focused on Western/European fashion because that is what I know best. I would like to acknowledge that much of the inspiration for the Jedi look came from East Asian cultures, especially Japanese historical/traditional dress, because one of Lucas' biggest influences was Kurosawa and other Japanese filmmakers of the time, and the Jedi were heavily inspired by both Samurai and monks.)
The first era that jumped to mind was the late Middle Ages, because most Jedi wear some kind of tunic and tabard.The use of "tabard" to describe that extra stole kind of thingy that goes on over the shoulders is not super accurate- I believe it was inspired by the Japanese kataginu, which had various forms but was part of the formal garb of samurai and courtiers:
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The more formal version had these funky shoulders:
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By contrast, most medieval tabards went fully across the chest and sometimes split into two panels below the waist for ease of riding a horse. Here are some solid ones, almost more like ponchos:
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Here are some that are more accurately described as surcoats, because they were worn over the armor. But you can see the split below the waist.
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You also have the gambeson, which went under your armor and was padded to protect you from all that steel, or as its own protective layer. Sometimes they had metal plates sewn in for extra protection. Again, split to allow for riding. I think Jedi might like these, since they would allow for protection but also range of movement.
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Of course, all these were garments worn by men, but Jedi seem to have very little gender distinction in their outfits, so I'll take it. Especially since frankly a lot of medieval outer clothing was pretty shapeless and was only gendered by who was wearing it. Here's a lady wearing sort of a tabard/cloak thing.
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So for this theoretical medieval Jedi outfit, we are probably looking at about the 13th-15th centuries, and a combination of men's and women's clothing. I don't want to do armor, because on Jedi that seems reserved for active wartime combat, so at most a padded gambeson I think.
A common women's outfit consisted of a kirtle and a surcoat, like this lady:
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I think having the tightly buttoned sleeves would be cool.
There were a lot of Big Sleeves on overgowns and outerwear in that era too, which will be fun for the robes:
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I think some heraldry would be neat to incorporate, kind of how the High Republic jedi often have the sunburst symbol incorporated into their outfits.
And of course, the hairstyle, which is where a lot of female jedi seem to express themselves, will be fun. Not sure what direction I want to go with that, but I'm thinking about how those little crespine side buns look very Leia!
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