Discussion of Walking Dresses or Promenade Dresses in the Regency era
^Lady’s Monthly Museum
January 1804
“Walking Dresses”
This is only half of a larger fold-out print that included two other dresses – a morning dress and an evening dress. (You can see the line of the fold in the figure on the right.) The two walking dresses are described as follows:
“1. A light Blue Beaver Military Helmet Hat, covered with light Blue Netting, ornamented with a White Feather. A short Walking Dress of White Muslin. A Military Spencer, trimmed with Silver Cord, and Epaulette. York tan gloves.
“2. A Scarlet Velvet Bonnet, with a White Ostrich Feather. A Pelisse of Scarlet Kersimere, trimmed with Black Velvet. Brown Bear Muff.”
^La Belle Assemblée
July 1807
“Kensington Garden Dresses for July 1807”
The print is described in the magazine as follows:
“No. 1 – A plain cambric round dress, a walking length. Roman spencer of celestial blue sarsnet, with Vandyke lapels and falling collar; finished with the same round the bottom of the waist, and flowing open in front of the bosom. A village hat of Imperial chip, with bee-hive crown, confined under the chin with ribbon the colour of the spencer. Cropped hair, divided in the center of the forehead with full curls. Gloves and shoes of lemon-coloured kid. Parasol of salmon-coloured sarsnet.
“No. 2 – Round train dress of India muslin, with short sleeves, ornamented round the bottom and sleeves with a rich border of needlework. Promenade tippet of Brussels lace, lined with white satin. Hat of white chip, or fancy cap of lilac satin, with a Brussels lace veil. Hair confined in braids over the right temple, and formed in loose curls on the opposite side. Gold hoop earrings. Gloves and slippers of lilac kid.”
^ La Belle Assemblée
March 1810
“Hyde Park Walking Dress”
“A pelisse of black merino cloth or velvet, buttoned from the throat to the feet, made to fit tight to the shape with a band of crape, ornamented with a double row of gold braiding, or an oriental embossed silk trimming, worn over a chemisette of French lawn. A Spanish hat and flat drooping ostrich feather tipped with orange. Half boots of black or orange coloured Morocco; Angola muff lined with yellow [painted pink in this print]; the hair lightly curled on the left side with a thick braid crossing the face. Ear-rings of gold or amber. Gloves of York tan.”
^La Belle Assemblée
November 1812
“Morning Walking Dress”
The print is described in the magazine as follows:
“Short pelisse of deep lilac, shot with white; back broader than they were worn last month, and on each hip a Spanish button. It is made with a collar up to the throat, and trimmed round with rich fur; sleeves long and loose, with a fur at bottom to form a cuff, rather shorter in front than behind, and two Spanish buttons are placed just at the bottom of the pelisse in front, which fastens with a loop crossing from one to the other. The bosom is ornamented in the same manner; a belt of embroidered ribband round the waist, and a gold clasp in front. A bonnet of the same materials as the pelisse, crown a helmet shape, front very small, and a wreath of laurel round it; three white feathers are placed at the back of the bonnet, and fall over the front; broad ribband, same as the bonnet, is pinned plain under the chin. The hair is brought very low at the sides, and a single curl on the forehead. Buff gloves, and dark brown kid boots. Large silver bear muff.”
^Ackermann’s Repository of Arts
November 1814
“Walking Dress”
The print is described in the magazine a follows:
“An Italian striped sarsnet lilac-coloured dress, ornamented round the bottom with a double quilling of satin ribband; short full sleeve, trimmed to correspond; the fronts of the dress cross the bosom and form an open stomacher; a Vandyke French ruff, and full bordered cap to correspond. The satin straw hat, tied under the chin with a check or striped Barcelona handkerchief, crossing the crown with a small plume of ostrich feathers in front. French shawl, a white twill, embroidered with shaded scarlet and green silks, and fancifully disposed on the figure. Gloves, Limerick or York tan, drawn over the elbow. Half-boots of York tan or pale buff kid.”
^ La Belle Assemblée
January 1815
“Morning Walking Dress
^Ackermann’s Repository of Arts
November 1817
“Walking Dress”
The print is described in the magazine as follows:
“Cambric muslin high dress, the lower part of the body made full, and the upper part, which is tight to the bust, composed entirely of rich work. A row of pointed work forms a narrow pelerine, which is brought rather high on the bosom, and ends in a point in front. The bottom of the skirt is finished by a deep flounce and heading, composed of the same material, which is surmounted by a row of soft muslin bouffone let in at small distances from each other. Over this dress is worn a spencer, composed of gros de Naples, ornamented with figured buttons, which are intermixed with a light, novel, and elegant trimming. For the form of the body, we refer our readers to our print. The sleeve, of a moderate width, is finished at the wrist to correspond with the body, by a double row of buttons and trimming intermixed. The epaulette, of a new and singularly pretty form, is edged with trimming, and finished with buttons on the shoulder. Autumnal bonnet, the front rather large, and of a very becoming shape; the crown low: it is tied under the chin by a large bow of ribbon. We are interdicted from describing either the novel and elegant materials of which this bonnet is composed, or the ornament which finishes it in front. Swansdown muff, lilac sandals, and pale lemon-colour kid gloves.“
^Ackermann’s Repository of Arts
February 1818
The print is described in the magazine as follows:
“A fawn-coloured poplin round dress: the body is of a three-quarter height; it is cur byas and has no seam, except under the arm. The back is narrower than last month; the fronts just meet, but do not cross; the sleeve is long, rather loose, and confined across the wrist by a satin piping disposed in waves; they are about two inches in length, and are finished by a small silk tuft at the end of each wave. The bust is trimmed to correspond, and the skirt is finished round the bottom by three rows of satin pipings, which form a deep wave, and which are also finished by tufts.“Over this is worn a pelisse composed of fine fawn-coloured cloth, and lined with white sarsnet. The waist of the pelisse is of a moderate length, the body is tight to the shape, and it has a small standing collar. The trimming which goes down the front, and finishes the bottoms of the sleeves, is extremely tasteful; it is an embroidery composed of intermingled blue ribbon and chenille, which ha a very striking effect. The sleeve is rather wide, except at the wrist, and is finished by a half-sleeve in the Parisian style; that is to say, very full on the shoulder, and confined across the arm by a row of small silk buttons. Head-dress, a bonnet composed of satin to correspond with the colour of the pelisse, lined with white sarsnet, and elegantly ornamented with a light embroidery in straw. For the shape of the bonnet, which is singularly becoming, we refer our reader to our print: it is trimmed with blue satin ribbon and a large plume of feathers. Limerick gloves, and half-boots composed of fawn-coloured kid.”
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I must say, that I never knew my mother appear to such advantage as she did during this visit to Leamington; she dressed remarkably well, and would have persuaded those who did not know her history, that she had always been in good society: but she had been a lady's maid and had learnt her mistress's airs; and as she could dress others so well, it would have been odd if she did not know how to dress herself. A good copy will often pass for an original.
— Frederick Marryat, Poor Jack
Fashion Plate (Walking Dress): Rudolph Ackermann, hand-coloured engraving on paper, London, November 1, 1820.
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Walking Dress Bodice, ca. 1896
Info : Light burnt sienna wool flounced bodice with brown velvet inset front and sleeves, trimmed with embroidered wool foliage braid and rope. Unlabeled. The overall condition is fair to good. Each sleeve hemline has some wear on the velvet. There are small pin holes at the top of the front opening, likely from a broach or other attached piece. The interior lining is split open on each side of the opening. The under arm seams are split open to varying degrees. There are two darkened lines along the upper flounces at the tops of the shoulders. The interior is heavily soiled along the top shoulder and under arm areas. There are several holes throughout the shell back panels and upper flounce.
Shoulders: 12"
Chest: 37"
Waist: 28"
Length (underarm to hem): 9"
Sleeve (center back neck to hem): 29.75"
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Walking Dress
Worth & Bobergh
c.1867
Walking dresses, to be in good taste, should be of quiet colors, and never conspicuous. Browns, modes, and neutral tints, with black and white, make the prettiest dresses for the street. Above all, avoid wearing several bright colors. One may be worn with perfect propriety to take off the sombre effect of a dress of brown or black, but do not let it be too glaring, and wear but little of it... Let the materials be of the costliest kind, if you will, but do not either wear the exaggerations of the fashion, or conspicuous colors. Let good taste dictate the limits where fashion may rule, and let the colors harmonize well, and be of such tints as will not attract attention. - Florence Hartley in The Ladies’ Book of Etiquette & Manual of Politeness (Project Gutenberg)
Albany Institute of History & Art
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