Lily Gladstone at the 2024 Oscars, wearing custom gown, a collaboration between Gucci's Creative Director, Sabato De Sarno, and Joe Big Mountain (Ironhorse Quillwork), a Mohawk, Cree, and Comanche artist renowned for his quillwork jewellery.
Styled by Jason Rembert.
Vogue: “It’s Not Just Mine”: Lily Gladstone on Her Historic Oscars Nod and Powerful Red Carpet Look
Quilting has been used so extensively on quilts, throws, and comfortables that many think of it only in connection with them and do not realize how much real beauty it can contribute to garments. Quilting costs little more than your time....
Mary Brooks Picken added that you did have to take time to make it “perfect work,” so attention was needed as well. She gave examples of machine quilting all over on a robe, vest, or “comfortable” which is a little confusing, but comfortables here meant both padded or quilted comforters for beds AND padded and quilted mufflers (thank you, Oxford English Dictionary). While this was published in Sewing Simplified from 1953, some of the material dated back to the 1930s from earlier books Picken wrote, and the meaning of words has since changed.
She also pointed out that bands along the edge of a garment might be quilted, and I have seen quilted collars and cuffs that are handsome as well. Picken also suggested quilting a coat lining, but I swore I would never take on a large quilting project after I machine quilted a simple-pieced comforter. It was about the most tedious and awkward machine sewing I had ever done.
So, take my advice and think of machine quilting as trim or embellishment. If you are keen on a quilted coat lining, you can buy such fabrics pre-made.
Colored woodcut print by an unknown English artist, generally dated to 1540-1550, possibly depicting Irish kerns who fought for King Henry VIII at the siege of Boulogne in 1544.
All 6 of the men wear a léine (linen tunic) with an ionar (short jacket) over it, and the 4 on the left have a brat (wool mantle). The men have their léinte rucked up to knee length and secured at the waist with a belt or cord. The léinte have the wide hanging sleeves that are typical of 16th c. Gaelic fashion. They also have a deep center-front opening, a feature which matches Burgundian courtier Laurent Vital's description of clothing he saw during his 1518 visit to Kinsale, Co. Cork:
"Generally the men, women, and young girls wear their shirts open to the waist. Most young women and girls have their chests naked to the waist." (translation taken from a lecture by Katherine Bond)
The ionair in this print are very similar in cut to the ionar of the Kilcommon bog outfit. The hat worn by the man in the red ionar is also similar to the hat of the Kilcommon outfit.
The floral scroll design seen on some of the ionair was a popular embroidery motif in England during the 16th-early 17th centuries. It also shows up in 16th c. Irish art like St. Brigid's shoe shrine.
4 of the ionair and all of the visible scabbards have fringe on them. Fringe was a popular embellishment in 16th c. Ireland. The use of fringe is mentioned in several 16th and early 17th c. descriptions of Irish clothing. Fringes made of wool and fringes made of silk were imported into Ireland during the 16th c.
In spite the claim that it was drawn from life, this print includes some stylistic exaggeration. The sword blades are depicted as having a bulbous tip, which actual Irish ring-pommel swords are not. Compare the swords in the print to this extant 16th c. sword from Tully Lough, Co. Roscommon in the NMI:
The print is currently in the collection of the Ashmolean Museum. https://collections.ashmolean.org/object/737327
Bibliography:
Arnold, Janet, Tiramani, J., & Levey, S. (2008). Patterns of Fashion 4. Macmillan, London.
Dunlevy, Mairead (1989). Dress in Ireland. B. T. Batsford LTD, London.
Flavin, Susan (2011). Consumption and Material Culture in Sixteenth-Century Ireland. PhD thesis.
McClintock, H. F. (1943). Old Irish and Highland Dress. Dundalgan Press, Dundalk.
Irish Ring Pommel Sword: New Insight into Use
National Museum of Ireland talk on St. Brigid's shoe shrine
Depicting and Describing Dress in Early Modern Ireland: lecture by Dr. Katherine Bond