One of my absolute favourite dresses.
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Embroidered muslin dress, France, 1805-10
From the Victoria & Albert Museum
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Muslin, that diaphanous cotton of India, is steeped in a bleak history of colonialism, Imperialism, and human atrocity. That's a way to start a Monday, isn't it? But that's the thing about fashion history.
Looking at a gown like this, which dates from the late 1840s, it's easy to get lost in the beauty: the pattern, the layers, the absolute Romantic gorgeousness.
It is, undoubtedly, a work of art, making use of that thin, breathable fabric, with delicate ruching, a genius use of pattern, and a shape that's reminiscent of the 18th century.
The demand for muslin fabric was immense, bolstered by the impact of the British East India Company, beginning in the 18th century. The finest muslins were from the Dhaka region and 2000 thread count *made by hand*. Starting with Marie Antoinette and her famous chemise a la reine, the craze for muslin among the elites of Europe came at a devastating cost--eventually contributing to the loss of the art and the death of millions of people in the regions.
Because once Europeans figured out how to manufacture muslin on their own (as they did with silk, paisley, pashminas, etc) they stopped all trade with India.
And of course, the great irony is that Europeans didn't just take the art and design, but directly appropriated patterns, styles, and more. There's a reason "question beauty relentlessly" is the Thread Talk motto. Lots more info on the subject over at my blog.
© Victoria and Albert Museum, London
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La Mode illustrée, no. 6, 8 février 1874, Paris. Toilettes de Mme Bréant-Castel, rue du 4 Septembre, 19. Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque
Description de toilettes:
Robe de dessous en faye lilas, Jupon de mousseline blanche, garni par devant d'un volant plissé, puis disposé au-dessus du volant jusqu'à la taille en trois grands bouillonnés, séparés par une guirlande de feuilles de pommier. Manteau de cour, en même mousseline, garni d'une haute dentelle; au-dessus de celle-ci, un large ruban lilas, sur lequel sont jetées des touffes de feuilles de pommier. Corsage décolleté. En guise de basques, de grandes coques en ruban lilas, avec branches de fleurs de pommier. Mêmes fleurs sur les épaules.
Robe de satin vert paon. Jupon en tulle de même teinte, bouillonné en lignes diagonales. Tunique en même tulle noir; à droite, trois nœuds immenses, en satin et velours, avec boucle dorée au centre. Corsage décolleté avec berthe et basques à créneaux, bordés d'un câble d'or. Nœuds et boucles dorés sur chaque manche courte.
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Underdress in lilac faye, Petticoat in white muslin, trimmed in front with a pleated flounce, then arranged above the flounce up to the waist in three large swirls, separated by a garland of apple leaves. Court coat, in the same muslin, trimmed with high lace; above this, a wide lilac ribbon, over which are thrown tufts of apple leaves. Low-cut bodice. As basques, large shells in lilac ribbon, with branches of apple blossoms. Same flowers on the shoulders.
Peacock green satin dress. Tulle petticoat of the same shade, bubbled in diagonal lines. Tunic in the same black tulle; on the right, three huge knots, in satin and velvet, with a golden loop in the center. Low-cut bodice with berthe and crenellated basques, edged with a gold cable. Golden bows and buckles on each short sleeve.
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Jacques Griffe Spring/Summer 1957. Carmen Dell'Orefice wears a floaty evening dress in white silk muslin. Photo Gleb Derujinsky.
Jacques Griffe Printemps/Été 1957. Carmen Dell'Orefice porte une robe de soirée vaporeuse, en mousseline de soie blanche. Photo Gleb Derujinsky.
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White muslin wedding dress with whitework embroidery, ca. 1807
From the Victoria & Albert Museum
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