Often containing hair, teeth, and other physical remains of the dead, these pieces peaked in popularity in the Victorian era. Mourning jewelry is one of earliest sartorial expressions of the gothic romanticism which has defined many famed modern designers, from Alexander McQueen to Ann Demeulemeester to Lieve Van Gorp. The genre is made up of broaches, necklaces, rings, and other adornments meant to celebrate loved ones who had passed away. However, the pieces from that period rather simply served to underscore the concept of "memento mori" ("remember you will die")