"Be patient, everything will work out. But still act quickly, don't waste time."
Ask Kate Spring
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Post op top surgery selfie, I feel like this is the first pic I’ve taken of myself where my smile feels 100% genuine almost like it’s a new smile I haven’t enjoyed seeing previously.
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I spent quite a long time on this tailcoat and have gotten very busy without time to work on other projects, so I will dedicate a post to it.
Firstly big thank you to @vinceaddams for his deaths head button video which I used to make mine as well as links for making buckram!
Deaths head buttons weren’t really as popular any more by the regency period, but they still had Thread wrapped buttons for coats as well as one vest example I found for.
I made the buckram from scratch using linen I got at a second hand store and glue.
Decorative interior stitching was based directly off an 1830s tailcoat at the MET.
I used silk thread for all of the visible stitches, and it was like butter to hand-sew with. 100m/110 yds was more than enough for that as well.
(You can see the mutton chops I did :] )
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Okay I’ve had some renewed ideas for kings landing fashion bc the whole city is just a separate ecosystem
When Rhaella and Joanna were still alive, they had this “classic” silhouette going on, Joanna bc Tywin wanted her to look both modest and elegant (bc the lady of the west isn’t gonna look like a hooker or a bum- Tywin probably) and Rhaella probably to cover up bruises (Aerys I will see you in hell). Anyways this kind of look probably originates in the westerlands, and since the Lannisters were big names in KL, everyone wanted to emulate them, and so all the ladies began to wear big skirts, wide sleeves, natural waists, and square necklines, often times with a kerchief and some type of hood for more modesty.
By the time Cersei’s queen, things more or less stay the same, as she wants to emulate her mother in some type of remembrance. Though fashion is noticeably a bit more gaudy/opulent bc Cersei loves to show off and of course everyone’s gonna follow her lead. However the silhouette is basically unchanged, and everyone still wears it, even Sansa when she comes down from the north when she tries to emulate Cersei (isn’t that picture on the right just so baby Sansa arriving at kings landing 💔)
And then everyone’s favorite shit stirrers (the Tyrells) pull up. They do nothing in moderation, everything is done in lavish extremes. Giant puffy sleeves at the shoulders that tighten at their wrists, waistlines that start at their sternums, boobs pushed up to high heaven, and cloth of gold and mother of pearl and silk and chiffon everywhere. It’s a hot girl long summer in Kings Landing when Margaery is queen
Men probably toe a real thin line for fashion in the city. They’re looking for a middle ground of tyrell/Lannister flashiness while still trying to look masculine and serious bc Tywin doesn’t want any little gay boys at court (sorry Loras). But the guys are probably divided by faction, so at any time you can see ether the bright colors and extra detailing of the Tyrells or the simple and sturdy but well made clothing leftover from the Lannister/Baratheon era.
And what I think is super interesting is that at some point, Margaery and Cersei’s respective influences have to collide. Over time, the city sees a combination of the two silhouettes as the two factions intertwine. It’s most popular with people trying to curry favor from both courts, those who want to impress Margaery but also stay on Cersei’s good side. The look is essentially a bloating of the originally Rhaella/Joanna look. Giant sleeves, puffy skirts, and super excessive detailing paired with the square neck, and natural waist of that classic look.
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I keep seeing people suggest Crowley's presentation in 1827 was feminine, and listen—headcanon what you want, I'm not your mom. But the justification is that he's supposedly dressed in feminine, as opposed to masculine, clothing? He isn't. You're just looking at Regency fashion with 21st-century eyes.
Both Aziraphale and Crowley are exemplaries of well-dressed gentlemen of the early 19th century, just in different styles.
On the left, a many-caped greatcoat like the one Aziraphale is wearing; on the right, a coat with puffed sleeves and a narrow waist like the one Crowley is wearing. (Both images seem to originate from Journal des Dames et des Modes, 1811 and 1826, respectively.)
I also saw something about Crowley's fob watch actually being a chatelaine?
Again, I have to disagree. What Crowley's wearing just looks like a watch chain, which both men and women wore. What you can see is the chain and a charm at the end; the watch itself is tucked into a pocket (same as with Aziraphale's).
Watch chain (left; another plate from Journal des Dames et des Modes) vs. chatelaine (right, from here).
While a chatelaine could possibly refer to a decorative watch chain, the chatelaines specifically associated with women are the accessories worn by female heads of household or housekeepers (hence the name) to hold keys and other useful items. They could get quite elaborate. Crowley's doesn't look particularly like a chatelaine more than it looks like a watch chain, to me.
To sum up, there's not really anything I can see about Crowley's fashion choices in 1827 that specifically says "female presenting"; it all fits in with men's fashion of the time. You can headcanon whatever you want! But this particular era isn't one in which Crowley's wardrobe and styling definitively reads as feminine.
Note for a couple people with poor reading comprehension: TERFs are not welcome on this post. Fuck off.
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fashion doll circles are crazy bc u get some people just full chest believing things like "dolls are so fem coded but legos are masc idk why" like? they just say these things
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A happy new year to all!
New breeches and a new waistcoat I made. The waistcoat I’m particularly proud of as I drafted it from an original 1820s tailoring book. The fabric is a reproduction 1840-1860 print. I’m still tweaking how I construct breeches.
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