Sigginstown Pottage
One of the most basic dishes of the medieval period - and in any culture, pretty much - is the pottage. This is basically "stuff cooked in a pot with water", which is a very broad definition. This particular "recipe" is one that I think is straightforward enough, uses common enough ingredients, and is palatable enough that it was almost certainly made in pre-Norman Ireland (by statistical inevitability, if nothing else). I've given it the name of "Sigginstown Pottage" because I first made it at Sigginstown Castle, and it's useful to have a name by which to refer to it.
1 smoked pale ham, chopped into 1cm cubes
2 onions, chopped (or some celery, also chopped)
2 leeks, roughly chopped
6 carrots, roughly chopped
c. 500g pearl barley, bulgur wheat, or other likely whole grain
Water to cover
Put everything above into a pot, and simmer until the meat and grains are cooked. Taste and season with some black pepper if needed. Serve hot.
Some observations: Onion is the more "authentic" between it and celery, but both were available. I've been going easy on onions lately due to food sensitivities. Leeks are absolutely a period Irish food, and possibly close to a staple; they're mentioned a fair bit in texts.
The pale ham (I don't know if this is known outside Ireland; it's a small chunk of cured ham, which is pretty salty) provides enough salt that you shouldn't need to add any more. The smoking is pretty solidly attested in period by the number of bones we see with holes for hooks.
You'll see some people claiming that carrots only arrived in Ireland with the Normans, but there are carrot seeds in the archaeobotanic remnants from Viking Dublin, and there's an old Irish word, meacon, which denotes tap-rooted vegetables like parsnips and carrots, but is usually used for carrots. So I'm pretty confident in including these.
The end result is a very solid, stick-to-the-ribs kind of stew; good eating for colder weather or when you've been doing physical work. I've only ever cooked it in cast iron, and it turns out that if you leave the leftovers in the pot overnight, the combination of whole grains and iron results in a horrifically grey stuff, which still tastes fine, but looks absolutely awful. So eat it hot, and don't leave leftovers.
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Pre-Norman Irish Food: Evidence & Ingredients
(The text of this post is largely copied from an issue of my food newsletter, Commonplace. I've edited a little for clarity.)
For evidence, we have a few bits of mostly poetic writing, a good chunk of law texts, some written observations by visitors from abroad, some archaeobotanic and arachaeozoologic remnants (seeds, pollen, bones, shells; mostly in middens), some implements and vessels, some burnt material, some small aspects of food preparation and cooking area layouts from archaeology, and some knowledge of when various foodstuffs came into use in other places, mostly Great Britain and Scandinavia. That actually adds up to quite a lot.
There’s also been some very valuable work done in neighbouring cuisines - the principal work here is An Early Meal - a Viking Age Cookbook & Culinary Odyssey, by Hanna Tunberg & Daniel Serra. Since most (possibly even all) of the larger settlements in pre-Norman Ireland were Norse, this is not so much neighbouring as overlaid, and indeed, given that many of the archaeobotanic investigations were in those settlements, some of my data may be biased toward Norse culinary culture. I do have data from monastic settlements as well, though, which were pretty definitively non-Norse.
The law texts are an interesting bit here. The book I’m mostly drawing from is Fergus Kelly’s Early Irish Farming, an excellent work which picks through many medieval Irish law texts for information about agriculture, apiculture, and other food producing practices. It is a book very much worth reading, if you are interested in such matters. Kelly is actually a law historian, not a food historian at all.
The principal texts which he uses are the 7th century Críth Gablach, which deals with rank and privilege, the 8th century Bretha Comaithchesa, which deals with judgements concerning neighbours and trespass, and the Cáin Aicille, the law of clientship and patronage, also from the 8th century. It is worth bearing in mind here that these texts are primarily lists of precedent and accounts of judgements, rather than laws which were set forth in principle. So there’s a degree to which - despite the downright weirdness of, say, laws for the trespass of bees - they are descriptive rather than prescriptive.
Annoyingly, we know the name of a law text concerning the sea and fishing - Muirbretha - but the actual text is lost. References from elsewhere make it clear that salmon, trout, and eels were eaten, but that’s almost all the information that’s available. Given the later Irish antipathy toward seafood, and its association with fast days and poverty, this is a particularly galling gap in the information.
There’s all sorts of information from these texts, some more detailed than others. The comparative value of grain, for example, was a matter with which the law was very much concerned, and so the 8th century Bretha Déin Chécht gives this order of precedence in descending order: bread-wheat, rye, spelt-wheat, two-row barley, emmer wheat, six-row barley, and oats. Several of the terms used in the list are words whose finer distinctions have been lost - so two-row and six-row are guesses, and the identity of rúadán (roo-ah-dawn, emmer wheat in this list) has been extensively debated. The one thing it is definitely not (but which some people have proposed) is buckwheat, because that wasn’t introduced to Europe until the 13th century, and isn’t a grain.
Similarly, there are translation issues with other texts. There are references to ríglus , tarblus, and aithlechlus, translated approximately as “king’s herb”, “bull’s herb” (that is, for the cattle-owning people), and “plebian herb” - but we have no idea what plants they actually were.
Achaeozoology can tell us a little about preparation as well as what was eaten, and tell us some things that the texts cannot - the age at which animals were slaughtered, for instance. Remains from the Moynagh crannóg in Co. Meath indicate that most cattle were under three years old. Similarly, holes in sheep bones - the scapula in particular - found in excavations indicate that the meat was hung, presumably for curing in some way. It is difficult, particularly in archaic breeds, to tell sheep bones from goat bones, so it’s pretty likely that goat was eaten in the same way. Pork was even more frequently hung for curing, as evidenced by holes in pig bones.
There is definite evidence from 11th century - still primarily Viking - Dublin of plums and walnuts, which were very likely imported. There’s little to no evidence of them elsewhere or in previous periods, although, as often quoted, absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.
The grain usage from the law texts is generally supported by what’s been found on sites, with the odd addition that rye is considerably more present in ruins and remnants than it was in law. Rye actually grows pretty well in the modern Irish climate, and would likely have done well in the early medieval era too. Grain usage also varies a great deal from site to site, which does make it difficult to draw broad conclusions.
There is also evidence of mustard seed, radishes, hazel nuts, blackberries, sloes and elderberries, none of which except hazel nuts are definitively mentioned in texts as far as I’m aware. Hazels don’t have the same significance here as they did in earlier periods, but they were still an important foodstuff (and coppicing timber).
Some plants we don’t consider as crops at all may have been grown as such in pre-Norman Ireland - Michael Monk lists Goosefoot (a relative of quinoa) and Knotweed as possibilities for this. Seed remains of both have been found in considerable quantities in sites in Drogheda and Dublin, more than would be supported by their presence as weeds.
There’s a fantastically useful paper by Susan Lyons called Food plants, fruits and foreign foodstuffs: the archaeological evidence from urban medieval Ireland, which provides a lot of information on what has been found. Picking through that, I’ve found references to: Wild cabbage, Radish, White mustard, Grape, Wild cherry, Apple, Field pea, Common vetch, Broad/horse bean, Flat pea, Dead nettle/mint, Carrot family, Poppy, Hop, Fig, Water pepper, Sloe/blackthorn, Plum/bullace, Pear/apple, Haw, Raspberry, blackberry, Wild strawberry, Whortleberry/cranberry/bilberry (noting that cranberries at least are a New World plant), Wild/cultivated celery, and the Garlic-onion-leek continuum.
The reason that a number of those aren’t terribly certain is that it can be very, very hard to tell particular seeds in a close family apart, and it’s mostly seeds that survive. Obviously, with figs and grapes appearing on the list, some of these have been imported - but that still means they’re in the food culture.
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