#louis fashion designer era

[vinceaddams]

Early 18th (and late 17th) century fashions are so under-utilized in vampire media and I think it's a damn shame.

I don't actually think I've ever seen a single image of a vampire character in an early 18th century suit. Hardly any movies set in that era either, and hardly any historical costumers who do it. (Even my beloved gay pirate show set in 1717 takes nearly all of its 18th century looks from the second half of the century. Not enough appreciation for baroque fashion!!)

Yes I love late 18th century fashion as much as anyone, and 19th century formal suits are all very well and good, but if you want something that says old, dead, wealthy, and slightly dishevelled, then the 1690's-1730's are where it's at.

(Retrato del Virrey Alencastre Noroña y Silva, Duque de Linares, ca. 1711-1723.)

There was so much dark velvet, and so many little metallic buttons & buttonholes. Blood red linings were VERY fashionable in this era, no matter what the colour of the rest of the suit was.

(Johann Christoph Freiherr von Bartenstein by Martin van Meytens the Younger, 1730's.)

The slits on the front of the shirts are super low, they button only at the collar, and it's fashionable to leave most of the waistcoat unbuttoned so the shirt sticks out, as seen in the above portraits.

(Portrait of Anne Louis Goislard de Montsabert, Comte de Richbourg-le-Toureil, 1734.)

Waistcoats are very long, coats are very full, and the cuffs are huge. But the sleeves are on the shorter side to show off more of that shirt, and the ruffles if it has them! Creepy undead hands with long nails would sit so nicely under those ruffles.

(1720's-30's, LACMA)

Embroidery designs are huge and chunky and often full of metallic threads, and the brocade designs even bigger.

(1730's, V&A, metal and silk embroidery on silk satin.)

Sometimes they did this fun thing where the coat would have contrasting cuffs made from the same fabric as the waistcoat.

(Niklaus Sigmund Steiger by Johann Rudolf Huber, 1724.)

Tell me this look isn't positively made for vampires!

(Portrait of Jean-Baptiste de Roll-Montpellier, 1713.)

(Yeah I am cherry-picking mostly red and black examples for this post, and there are plenty of non-vampire-y looking images from this time, but you get the idea!)

And the wrappers (at-home robes) were also cut very large, and, if you could afford it, made with incredible brocades.

(Portrait of a nobleman by Giovanni Maria delle Piane, no date given but I'd guess maybe 1680's or 90's.)

(Circle of Giovanni Maria delle Piane, no date given but I'd guess very late 17th or very early 18th century.)

Now that looks like a child who's been stuck at the same age for a hundred years if I ever saw one!

I don't know as much about the women's fashion from this era, but they had many equally large and elabourate things.

(1730's, Museo del Traje.)

(Don't believe The Met's shitty dating, this is a robe volante from probably the 1720's.)

(Mantua, c. 1708, The Met. No idea why they had to be that specific when they get other things wrong by entire decades but ok.)

(Portrait of Duchess Colavit Piccolomini, 1690's.)

(Maria van Buttinga-van Berghuys by Hermannus Collenius, 1717.)

Sometimes they also had these cute little devil horn hair curls that came down on either side of the forehead.

(Viago in drag Portrait of a lady, Italian School, c. 1690.)

Enough suave Victorian vampires, I want to see Baroque ones! With huge wigs and brocade coat cuffs so big they go past the elbow!

#long post #vampires #fashion #history #18th century #17th century #someday. SOMEDAY I will make a black/red/dark orange/metallic gold 1720's suit #I've got nearly all the materials I just need to: #1. Learn how to make early 18th century metallic thread buttons‚ preferably without having to buy the super expensive kind of thread #2. get a wig and style it appropriately

[dwreader]

Emphasizing Louis's Beauty

I've talked previously about how Louis in the 2nd half of the season is rarely seen in suits anymore but what about the earlier episodes when he wears a wide array of colorful suits while he is still performing his role in human society? What stands out is how many vibrant colors and patterns we see him in vs. Lestat who is always in some kind of tan, gray or navy. A lot of this is simply historical record as vibrant colors were more typical of black male dress of the era and we see that Louis is trying to maintain appearances, but on the show his bright costuming always stands out from other background male characters black OR white (confirmed by the costume designer that his colors are like a flame drawing Lestat in) and the tailoring and color choices often stands in contrast to Lestat on screen next to him in a more traditional masculine (aka duller) color. I mean compare this to how romantic period dramas typically style the men and women.

Beyond the historical nods, which most tv viewers don't have detailed references to as there aren't many color images we have from that era, I think the show does a great job of connecting cultural references everyone can immediately pick up on (the Leydecker outfits were obvious examples). For example, if you think of a white stripey suit from the 1910s, the image that came to mind was probably Rose in Titanic. So even as Louis is projecting what was period standard masculinity, what the modern viewer is likely thinking of is a tailored suit worn by the female protagonist in one of the biggest movies of all time. These looks screams high fashion latest designs from Paris, decked out pampered princess of the ship ("prince of your district").

In the same vein, when you imagine an iconic green period costume you're probably thinking of Keira Knightley in Atonement. In fact if you google "green suit in period film" all the results are of women. Rarely are men put in these colors in period romances particularly. I mean I think they put Keira in that green dress simply because she looks incredibly beautiful in that color and that's also how I feel about Louis in his green outfit.

I've talked before about the use of red on Louis but looking at the actual context of when Louis wears red they are specifically scenes of lust (w/ Jonah), shame (the slutshamig w/ the soliders) or anger/revenge (killing the Alderman) and hello look at these!!

And this is really an exclusively female character trope where vivid color costuming is used to convey mood or emotion! When a man is angry or lustful in a film, he's never wearing red, he's just wearing a boring color like black or grey. Evil and goodness are conveyed by black vs. white costuming with men (i.e Lestat's evil black darth vader get up) but rarely any colors not on that b&w scale.

Also speaking of cultural references in costuming here's this again.

#iwtv #im making everyone look at the wifebeater outfits with their eyes taped open like its clockwork orange #my point is the costumes make louis even prettier while they make lestat appear powerful #(and scary) #so many outfits highlight how broad his chest is and his giant ass biceps #costume analysis

[pop-punklouis]

louis officially in his fashion designer era

[cool-fancier]

Love Among the Lights

Lisa x Fem Reader

Synopsis: As CEO of Louis Vuitton, you navigate fame and love in secrecy. When your girlfriend, Lisa, stuns at LVFW24, whispers of romance ignite.

Word Count:3.6k

Your journey to becoming the CEO of Louis Vuitton was not one of luck or happenstance but rather a culmination of years of hard work, dedication, and a relentless pursuit of excellence. It all began in the bustling streets of Paris, where you were born into a family with a deep appreciation for art, culture, and fashion.

From a young age, you were fascinated by the world of design, spending hours sketching and creating your own clothing designs. It was a passion that only grew stronger with time, fueled by your insatiable curiosity and desire to leave your mark on the world.

After completing your education in business and fashion design, you set out to make your mark on the fashion industry, determined to carve out a name for yourself in a world dominated by giants. You started small, working for various fashion houses and design firms, honing your skills and learning the ins and outs of the industry.

But it wasn't long before you realized that you were destined for something greater – something that would allow you to unleash your creativity and reshape the landscape of fashion as we know it. And so, armed with nothing but a dream and a burning passion, you set out to create your own fashion empire.

— — — — — — —

Louis Vuitton was more than just a fashion brand – it was a symbol of luxury, sophistication, and timeless elegance. From its iconic monogrammed bags to its meticulously crafted ready-to-wear collections, Louis Vuitton had become synonymous with quality and craftsmanship, attracting a loyal following of fashion enthusiasts and celebrities alike.

But as you set out to take the reins of the company, you knew that you wanted to push the boundaries of traditional fashion and usher in a new era of innovation and creativity. You envisioned Louis Vuitton as more than just a luxury brand – it was to be a lifestyle, a statement of individuality and self-expression.

With this vision in mind, you set about reimagining the brand's image, infusing it with a fresh, modern aesthetic that resonated with a new generation of fashion-forward consumers. You collaborated with renowned designers and artists, pushing the boundaries of design and blurring the lines between fashion and art.

From bold, avant-garde runway shows to groundbreaking marketing campaigns, you spared no expense in bringing your vision to life, determined to cement Louis Vuitton's status as a global fashion powerhouse.

— — — — — — —

It was at one of your annual fashion shows in Paris that you first crossed paths with Jennie, the charismatic member of Blackpink whose star was on the rise. She had been invited to attend the event as a guest, her presence a testament to her growing influence in the world of fashion and entertainment.

From the moment you met, there was an instant connection between you – a shared passion for art, culture, and of course, fashion. You spent hours discussing your respective careers and aspirations, your conversation flowing effortlessly as you exchanged ideas and insights.

As the night wore on, you found yourself drawn to Jennie in a way you had never experienced before, her intelligence and charm captivating you in ways you couldn't explain. It was as though you were kindred spirits, destined to cross paths and leave an indelible mark on each other's lives.

In the days and weeks that followed, your friendship blossomed into something more, your bond deepening with each passing day. You spent countless hours together, exploring the streets of Paris and immersing yourselves in the vibrant culture of the city.

And through it all, Jennie remained a constant source of inspiration and support, encouraging you to pursue your dreams and never settle for anything less than greatness. She believed in you when no one else did, and for that, you would be forever grateful.

— — — — — — —

It was at one of Jennie's parties that you first laid eyes on Lisa, the radiant member of Blackpink whose beauty and talent had captured the hearts of millions around the world. She had recently debuted as a solo artist, her star rising higher with each passing day.

As she mingled with the other guests, her presence commanded attention, her confidence and charisma drawing people to her like moths to a flame. You found yourself captivated by her, unable to tear your eyes away as she moved gracefully through the crowd.

You waited for the perfect moment to approach her, watching as she engaged in conversation with other partygoers. When the opportunity presented itself, you made your move, stepping in to introduce yourself.

"Hi, I'm Y/N," you said, offering her a warm smile as you extended your hand.

Lisa's eyes lit up in recognition, a smile tugging at the corners of her lips as she shook your hand. "I know who you are," she replied, her voice soft and melodic. "You're the CEO of Louis Vuitton, right?"

You nodded, feeling a surge of pride at her recognition. "That's right," you said. "And you're Lisa from Blackpink. It's a pleasure to meet you."

The conversation flowed effortlessly between you, your words dancing like poetry as you talked about everything from music to fashion to your shared love of travel. It was as though you had known each other for years, your connection instant and undeniable.

But amidst the laughter and camaraderie, there was an undercurrent of tension between you – a silent longing that neither of you dared to acknowledge. You were both bound by the constraints of your respective careers, your relationship relegated to the shadows for fear of the consequences.

Yet, despite the risks, you couldn't deny the undeniable pull you felt towards each other – a magnetic force that drew you together with a power that defied logic and reason. And as you danced around the edges of your feelings, tiptoeing around the truth, you knew that you were falling for Lisa in a way you had never thought possible.

As the night wore on, you found yourself drawn to Lisa like a moth to a flame, unable to tear yourself away from her magnetic presence. And as you stood together on a balcony overlooking the city lights, your conversation taking on a more intimate tone, you knew that you had found someone special in Lisa – someone worth taking a chance on.

As you stood together on the balcony, the city lights twinkling below, the conversation between you and Lisa took on a more intimate tone. You found yourself opening up to her in a way you hadn't with anyone else, sharing stories and laughter as if you had known each other for years.

"So, tell me more about Louis Vuitton," Lisa said, her eyes sparkling with genuine interest. "What inspired you to become the CEO?"

You smiled, touched by her curiosity. "Well, it's always been a dream of mine to work in the fashion industry," you explained. "I've always been fascinated by the intersection of art and commerce, and Louis Vuitton represents the pinnacle of luxury and innovation."

Lisa nodded, hanging on to your every word. "That's so cool," she said. "I've always admired your work with the brand. You've really taken it to new heights."

Before you could respond, the door to the balcony swung open, and Jisoo, another member of Blackpink, stepped outside, her eyes widening in surprise as she caught sight of you and Lisa together.

"Lisa!" she exclaimed, her voice carrying across the balcony. "What are you doing out here?"

You and Lisa exchanged a knowing glance before turning to face Jisoo, trying to suppress your laughter at her over-the-top reaction.

"We're just having a little chat," Lisa replied, a mischievous twinkle in her eye.

Jisoo's eyes widened even further, and she gasped dramatically, clutching her chest as if she had just witnessed a scandalous affair.

"Oh my god, Lisa, are you flirting with Y/N?" she exclaimed, her voice rising in pitch as she turned to face the other members of Blackpink, who had gathered at the door to see what all the commotion was about.

"Guys, you won't believe this!" she called out, her voice tinged with mock horror. "Lisa's out here seducing the CEO of Louis Vuitton!"

The other members of Blackpink crowded onto the balcony, their eyes widening in surprise as they took in the scene before them. Rosé giggled uncontrollably, while Jennie shook her head in disbelief.

"Lisa, you little minx," Jennie teased, nudging her playfully. "I always knew you had a thing for powerful women."

Lisa rolled her eyes, but there was a playful glint in her eye as she turned to face you, her lips curling into a sly grin.

"Sorry about that," she said, her voice laced with amusement. "My friends can be a bit... dramatic."

You laughed, feeling a sense of warmth spread through you at the sight of Lisa's playful demeanor. Despite the teasing from her friends, you couldn't help but feel a surge of affection for her, grateful for the chance to spend this time together away from the prying eyes of the public.

As the night wore on, you and Lisa continued to talk and laugh together, the tension between you dissipating with each passing moment. And as you stood together on the balcony, surrounded by the laughter and camaraderie of your friends, you knew that this was just the beginning of something special between you and Lisa.

— — — — — — —

Despite your hectic schedules, you and Lisa managed to carve out precious moments to spend together. Each date was a chance to escape the pressures of work and fame, to simply enjoy each other's company without the prying eyes of the public.

You took Lisa to some of the most exclusive restaurants in the city, savoring each bite of gourmet cuisine as you talked and laughed late into the night. You explored hidden gems tucked away in the corners of the city, discovering new cafes, bookstores, and parks where you could steal quiet moments away from the chaos of the world.

On one memorable occasion, you surprised Lisa with tickets to a private concert by one of her favorite artists. The look of delight on her face as she realized where you were taking her made all the planning and secrecy worth it. As you stood together in the crowd, swaying to the music under the twinkling lights, you felt a sense of contentment wash over you, grateful for the chance to share this experience with someone as special as Lisa.

Despite the challenges of dating in the public eye, you and Lisa found solace in each other's company, stealing moments of intimacy whenever you could. Whether it was a stolen kiss in the backseat of a car or a quiet walk through the city streets hand in hand, you cherished each moment you spent together, knowing that your love was worth the risk.

As the months passed, your bond with Lisa grew stronger with each passing day. You found yourself falling deeper and deeper in love with her, unable to imagine your life without her by your side. And as you looked into her eyes, you knew that you wanted to make things official – to ask her to be your girlfriend in the most romantic and unique way possible.

One evening, as you and Lisa sat together on the balcony of your penthouse apartment, the city lights twinkling below, you felt a surge of nervous energy coursing through you. You knew that this was the moment you had been waiting for – the moment when you would ask Lisa to be yours in every sense of the word.

Taking a deep breath, you turned to face Lisa, your heart pounding in your chest as you prepared to pour your heart out to her.

"Lisa," you began, your voice barely above a whisper. "I know we've been seeing each other for a while now, and I've loved every moment we've spent together."

Lisa's eyes widened in surprise, a smile spreading across her face as she realized what you were about to say.

"You mean...?" she trailed off, her voice barely a whisper as she waited for you to continue.

You nodded, reaching out to take her hand in yours. "I want to make things official," you said, your voice steady despite the nerves that churned in your stomach. "Lisa, will you be my girlfriend?"

Tears welled up in Lisa's eyes as she threw her arms around you, burying her face in your chest as she nodded enthusiastically.

"Yes, yes, a thousand times yes!" she exclaimed, her voice muffled against your shirt as she held you tightly.

You laughed, feeling a sense of relief wash over you at her enthusiastic response. Pulling back slightly, you cupped her face in your hands, gazing into her eyes with all the love and adoration you felt for her.

"I love you, Lisa," you whispered, your voice filled with emotion.

"I love you too, Y/N," Lisa replied, her eyes shining with happiness as she leaned in to kiss you tenderly.

As you melted into each other's embrace, surrounded by the soft glow of the city lights, you knew that this was just the beginning of your love story – a story that would continue to unfold in the days, weeks, and years to come, filled with laughter, adventure, and endless moments of love and joy.

— — — — — — —

As the CEO of Louis Vuitton, you were constantly on the lookout for opportunities to expand the brand's reach and influence. You had seen the power of celebrity endorsements firsthand, and you knew that having someone as influential as Lisa as an ambassador could take Louis Vuitton to new heights.

One evening, as you and Lisa cuddled together on the couch, the soft glow of the television casting a warm light over the room, you broached the subject.

"Hey, Lisa," you began, your voice casual as you traced circles on her arm with your fingertips.

"Yeah?" she replied, her attention still focused on the screen as she snuggled closer to you.

"I was thinking," you continued, a playful smile tugging at the corners of your lips. "What would you say if I asked you to be an ambassador for Louis Vuitton?"

Lisa's head snapped up, her eyes widening in surprise as she turned to look at you.

"Wait, really?" she exclaimed, her voice filled with excitement. "You want me to be an ambassador for Louis Vuitton?"

You nodded, feeling a surge of pride at her enthusiastic response. "Yeah, really," you said, your voice softening as you reached out to take her hand in yours. "I know how passionate you are about fashion, and I think you would be the perfect fit for the brand."

Lisa's face lit up with a smile as she squeezed your hand tightly. "Y/N, that's incredible," she said, her voice filled with emotion. "I would love to be an ambassador for Louis Vuitton."

You grinned, feeling a sense of satisfaction wash over you at her excitement. "Great," you said, unable to hide the smile that spread across your face. "Welcome to the Louis Vuitton family, Lisa."

As the two of you cuddled together on the couch, basking in the warmth of each other's embrace, you couldn't help but feel a sense of pride and accomplishment. Not only had you secured a valuable partnership for Louis Vuitton, but you had also brought your girlfriend into the fold, forging a connection that would only serve to strengthen your bond both personally and professionally.

— — — — — —

The Louis Vuitton Fashion Week (LVFW24) in Paris was one of the most anticipated events in the fashion world, drawing celebrities, influencers, and fashionistas from around the globe. As the CEO of Louis Vuitton, you were accustomed to the glitz and glamour of such events, but this year held a special significance for you.

Not only were you showcasing your latest collection on the runway, but you had also orchestrated a surprise for your girlfriend, Lisa, the phenomenal member of Blackpink. You had been secretly dating for about a year now, and you wanted to show her just how much she meant to you by incorporating her into the event in a special way.

As you made your way to the venue, your heart raced with excitement and anticipation. You had been working tirelessly on the new collection, pouring your heart and soul into every design, and you couldn't wait to see the reaction from the audience.

The venue was abuzz with activity as guests mingled and posed for photos on the red carpet. Cameras flashed and voices buzzed with excitement as the anticipation reached a fever pitch.

You scanned the crowd, searching for a familiar face, but there was no sign of Lisa. You knew she was attending the event, but you had purposely kept her outfit a secret as part of the surprise.

Taking a deep breath to calm your nerves, you made your way backstage to check on the models and make sure everything was running smoothly. The energy backstage was electric, with hairstylists and makeup artists putting the finishing touches on the models' looks and designers making last-minute adjustments to the garments.

As the showtime approached, you took your place backstage, feeling a mix of excitement and nerves coursing through your veins. The music started, and the first model stepped onto the runway, setting the stage for what promised to be a breathtaking show.

One by one, the models strutted down the runway, showcasing your latest designs with confidence and grace. The audience was captivated, their eyes glued to the runway as they took in the stunning creations.

But as the show reached its climax, there was one final surprise in store. Just as the last model exited the runway, the lights dimmed, and the music changed to a familiar beat.

Suddenly, the giant screens flanking the stage lit up with images of Lisa, her face glowing with a radiant smile as she walked confidently towards the stage. The audience erupted into cheers and applause as they recognized the K-pop star, their excitement palpable in the air.

You felt a surge of pride and excitement as Lisa took her place on the runway, her presence commanding attention as she struck a pose at the end of the catwalk. She was wearing one of your designs – a stunning gown that hugged her curves in all the right places, accentuating her natural beauty and elegance.

The screams were deafening as the audience showered Lisa with adoration and praise, their excitement reaching a fever pitch as they snapped photos and videos of the iconic moment.

But amidst the chaos and excitement, there was an undeniable tension between you and Lisa – a silent acknowledgment of the intimacy and connection you shared. As you locked eyes with her from across the room, you felt a rush of emotions flood over you – love, pride, and an overwhelming sense of gratitude for having her in your life.

As the show came to an end, you and Lisa were ushered onto the stage for photos, the flashes of cameras lighting up the room as you posed together for the paparazzi. The chemistry between you was palpable, and fans couldn't help but notice the way you looked at each other – with love and admiration shining in your eyes.

As the night wore on, the photos and videos from the event began to circulate online, igniting a frenzy of speculation and excitement among fans. They couldn't help but notice the intimate moments between you and Lisa, and soon, social media was abuzz with rumors of your secret relationship.

But amidst the chaos and speculation, there was one thing that remained constant – the undeniable love and connection you shared with Lisa. And as you held her hand tightly in yours, watching the city lights twinkle in the distance, you knew that your love for each other was stronger than ever before.

🌟 Y/N stole the show at LVFW24 with their breathtaking collection! From runway to CEO, they're a force to be reckoned with. 🌟 #YNSlayed #LVFW24

🌟 Did anyone else notice the sparks flying between Y/N and Lisa at LVFW24? 🔥 The way they look at each other is giving us all the feels! 🥺💕 #YLisa #LVFW24

@YNCeles: Y/N absolutely killed it at LVFW24! Her designs were pure perfection, and I couldn't be prouder to be a fan! 🌟 #YNSlayed #LVFW24

@YNismine: Can we take a moment to appreciate Y/N's dedication and passion for fashion? She is truly a visionary in the industry! 🙌 #FashionIcon #LVFW24

@YNCpla: Y/N's collection at LVFW24 has left me speechless! Her talent knows no bounds, and I'm in awe of everything she creates! 🌟 #YNSlayed #LVFW24

@LISALegendary: Lisa looked like an absolute goddess at LVFW24! Her runway walk was flawless, and she owned every moment on that stage! 🌟 #LisaQueen #LVFW24

@LISAicon: Lisa's presence at LVFW24 was everything! She exudes confidence and charisma like no other, and I'm so proud to be her fan! 💖 #LisaManoban #LVFW24

@coollisa: Lisa's performance at LVFW24 was nothing short of iconic! She's a true superstar, and I'm so grateful to be able to support her! 🌟 #LisaLegend #LVFW24

@YLisaUniverse: The tension between Y/N and Lisa at LVFW24 is undeniable! 🔥 They're the ultimate power couple, and I'm here for it! 🌟 #YLisa #LVFW24

@ynandlisa: Can we talk about the way Y/N and Lisa looked at each other at LVFW24? It's like they have their own little universe! 🌌💖 #YLisa #LVFW24

@lisaisY/n’s: Y/N and Lisa are giving us all the feels at LVFW24! Their love and chemistry are off the charts, and I'm living for it! 🥺💕 #YLisa #LVFW24

Together, you and Lisa had weathered the storms of fame and fortune, emerging stronger and more united than ever before. And as you looked towards the future, you knew that there was nothing that could stand in the way of your love – not even the bright lights of Paris or the prying eyes of the world.

#blackpink x reader #blackpink x fem reader #blackpink #blackpink x fem #blackpink x you #blackpink imagines #blackpink scenarios #blackpink lisa #lisa manoban x reader #lisa manoban #blackpink fanfic #blackpink fanfiction #Lisa fanfic #lisa

[taylorswiftstyle]

Out and about | New York City, NY | December 5, 2023

Stella McCartney 'Frayed Checked Wool Blend Tweed Mini Skirt' - $975.00

Just the other day in stories I was talking about the history of Taylor and mini skirts and how - especially as we approach the end of 2023 - that this year has seen quite a revival for them in her candid fashion.

While it’s fun to see Taylor’s style come to fruition in the moment, I very much think that consideration for an ‘era’ as a whole can really only be done in hindsight once we have a birds eye view of the time period in order to be able to really pull out trends, commonalities, and patterns.

In this current moment, a wool tweed mini (esp paired with designed tights - another closet staple Taylor has a long history with) feels preppy, smart, and wintery. Almost Gossip Girl-esque!

Worn with: Stella McCartney coat, VRAI + Jacquie Aiche + Louis Vuitton jewelry, Sheertex tights, Jimmy Choo x Jean Paul Gaultier heels

Photo by James Devaney via Getty

#taylor swift #candid #skirt #stella mccartney #december 2023

[empirearchives]

Women artists in Napoleonic France

(Young women copying: ‘Love begging Venus to forgive Psyche’ which was displayed at the 1808 Salon. Sketch by Georges Rouget)

Quotes from an article about women’s participation in the art world during the Napoleonic era.

Article:

Heather Belnap Jensen, “The Journal des Dames et des Modes: Fashioning Women in the Arts, c. 1800-1815,” Nineteenth-Century Art Worldwide 5, no. 1 (Spring 2006) (source)

“More and more women artists began exhibiting their work in public venues and receiving recognition for their contributions at this time. While only three women artists had participated in the 1789 biennial Salon, fifty participated in the Salon of 1806–an increase in women’s participation of over 1600 percent in seventeen years.”

(Woman artist giving a drawing lesson — Self-portrait, 1810, by Louise-Adéone Drölling)

“We see a move away from the emphasis on the public sphere to the private space as motifs, intimating a valorization of a woman’s world. While history painting, which played such a crucial role in Revolutionary visual culture, remained the privileged genre at the turn of the century, the rise in portraiture, landscape, and genre painting in Napoleonic France indicates this shift in values.”

(Young Woman Drawing—Portrait of Charlotte du Val d'Ognes, 1801, by Marie-Denise Villers)

“Women’s journals, which often published art-related materials, have been largely overlooked in discussions of developments in late eighteenth-and early nineteenth-century French visual culture. This is surprising, given that bibliographies on art criticism of this period frequently cite items from these publications.”

One of the most influential women’s journal of the period was Journal des Dames et des Modes. It was created by Jean-Baptiste Sellèque and Pierre de La Mésangère in 1797 and continued until 1839.

“La Mésangère’s key collaborator during the Napoleonic period was a woman, Albertine Clément, née Hémery, a well-known figure in both journalistic and cultural circles in post-Revolutionary France, and that several women were regular contributors to this journal during this era.”

Annemarie Kleinert did a study on the journal:

“She determined that the journal targeted bourgeois women between the ages of 18 and 40 years old who could afford the annual subscription rate of 10 livres, and that the majority of subscribers during the period from 1800 to 1815 were from the provinces.”

(Portrait of a Young Woman Drawing Herself, early 1800s, by Louis-Léopold Boilly)

Interest from women in creating their own designs:

“Fashion plates that accompanied each issue of this journal gave visual testimony to this heightened interest in women’s artistic engagement. Indeed, women in fashion plates were sometimes presented in the act of sketching and drawing, as shown in a plate that appeared as an insert in an 1802 issue of the Journal des Dames et des Modes.”

The act of women creating art was compared to motherhood. In that way, women were encouraged to make art, but in terms which enforced traditional and patriarchal ideas:

“Furthermore, the vocabulary used by the author stresses the ways in which artistic creativity mirrors childbirth and elicits feelings of exaltation over one’s art that are similar to those evoked by motherhood when he writes that ‘she smiles at the objects which are born of her colors’ and calls the site of her production a ‘creative space.’”

There were opportunities for women to paint nude subjects for classical style art:

“Recent scholarship suggests that there were opportunities for such study in the Napoleonic era. By 1800, female students could attend anatomy classes given by the surgeon Sue and also by the École du Modèle Vivant at Versailles, and artist Adele Romilly reported that David, Régnault, and Guérin all provided mixed studios that offered courses on life drawing from the nude.”

One of the claims made against the women’s journals is that they were sexist. The author points out that it’s more complicated and not entirely true. The journals included laudatory reviews of paintings by female artists at the salons, biographies of women artists, such as Angelica Kauffmann, and published excerpts of pamphlets written by women, such as Angélique Mongez.

(Portrait of an Artist Drawing after the Antique, c. 1800s, Jean François Sablet)

However, the author also says there was a lot of anxiety about the increase in female participation in the art world, both as creators and as spectators. There were articles describing women at museums in derogatory terms. One in particular described a young girl being overcome by emotion at the sight of the statue of Apollo Belvedere and creating such a large scene that she had to be dragged away in tears.

These articles imply that women spectators had become dominant enough that it could inspire critics.

Women had become so important in the art world that a really unique phenomenon happened:

“Roger Bellet has demonstrated that there are known instances in late eighteenth-and early nineteenth-century France when men published under a female pseudonym.”

Many of the top artists who were admired in the era were women such as Élisabeth Louise Vigée-Lebrun, Marguerite Gérard, Constance Mayer, Adèle Romany, Adélaïde Labille-Guiard, Pauline Auzou, Jeanne-Elisabeth Chaudet, Marie-Guillemine Benoist, Constance Marie Charpentier and many others.

#art #women’s art #women artists #napoleonic era #napoleonic #mine #fashion #writing #first french empire #napoleon bonaparte #quotes #ref #reference #Journal des Dames et des Modes #19th century #1800s #fashion history #historical fashion #history of fashion #french empire #france #history #french revolution #frev #women’s history #womens art #women in art #women painters #fashion plates

[tarotwithdanise]

Your future spouse fashion style.

꒰⠀from left to right ; intuitively choose the pile your mind, heart and soul desire for. if you are having trouble choosing the right pile for you, here’s some tips you can do ; (1) take a deep breath (2) close your eyes (3) ask guidance from your guides (4) finally open your eyes and you can choose the right pile for you by the guidance you ask from your guides. if you are still having trouble by choosing the right pile for you let me know because i am willing to help and guide you.

remember that this reading was based on the energy of what kind of clothing they mostly wear often.

Pile one

This is someone who doesn't care much about their appearance; they don't spend a lot of money and time to dress glamorously. But they do preferred fitted shirts, pants or jeans. Their style is simple and cheap; there is nothing amazing here. I also see here that they like plain colors of skirts or shorts. I see them wearing casual more often like a relaxing and cleanliness style. For masculine, they like to wear pants and boots. While for feminine, they like to wear sneakers and sandals. If they may wear jewelry or accessories, there is only a few of them - for example, a watch, a necklace with a simple design, or a pair of earrings. Simplicity is elegant with this person; it's awe-inspiring! I mean, even they have tons of money they choose to be frugal; they focus more on their own needs than their wants. It doesn't matter, but they might live somewhere in Hawaii or Asia's countries. This person may also wear glasses; I see that they have blurred vision. For the rest of this stack, I'm getting a very weird clothing styles - offbeat, unusual, or freakish. They like something unique, something noticeable; they want attention from others; or they could working as clothing models.

extra messages 🌱

campus, 515, nudes, glasses, lowkey, blurry, anxiety, doctor, letting go, foreigner, well mannered and travel, unique, weirdo, gym, cute, late night walks and conversations, studying together, kind, funny, japanese, office, garden that full of flowers, crush, private and mysterious.

Pile two

Here are the vibes of the CEO in style. Someone who smells and looks rich. Your first impression of this person is that they are financially wealthy because of the way they dress; it doesn't matter if they are not rich though. They like to pamper themselves, unlike the first pile. This person likes to show off what they have worked hard for. They like a good smell and a luxury perfume brand; they also prefer to wear only a few accessories or jewelry. With women, I have found that they like ponytails; they can also have 3-5 ear holes (three on the right and two on the left or vice versa). I seeing them wearing manh luxury brands here such as Balenciaga, Gucci and Louis Vuitton. Women may want to wear a long skirt or navy pants that can match the outfit. This person is a workaholic; they tend to work overtime on their job. They want the task to be completed as quickly as possible and they can also be perfectionists.

extra messages 🌱

small and tall couple, popular, slippers, tried, luxury, matured, strong capricorn, good looking, medium - tall, giggles, adopted, blue eyes, rain, kissing on the kitchen counter, family picture, city, and 77.

Pile three

Oh, this person is old fashioned or into vintage. I thought it was great because nowadays people tend to be interested in trends of fashion. Do you know how people from the 40s, 90s, 80s or 70s eras is getting dressed? that how they most likely to dress themselves. For some of them, they might wear jeans with modest tops.. They may also want to buy used clothes mostly pre-loved. This is someone who wants to recycle clothes to make them look brand new. This person is very talented; they have moles on their hands (or it could be you) and they might like to paint and draw. They also like to watch Ghibli films. They usually enjoy classical and jazz music.

extra messages 🌱

sewing, grow old with you, earth and air signs on their chart, 555, grandma core, raspy or deep voice, nice hair, serious, not easy to please, beautiful hands, farm, dark, short hair, likes to plant, hate drama, aquarius, left handed person, big eyes and moles

Pile four

Oh, this person is hella hot; they give me bad character vibes outfit yet it looks dark and fierce. They're into trends, especially street fashion. They wear a wide variety of loose clothing for their t-shirts and hoodies pairing them with pants or shorts. For few, I'm getting the Korean street fashion style—for women, they may wear an eye-catching blazers, big sunglasses, sneakers, a stylish hat collection, crop tops, and high-waisted mini skirts. For men, leather jackets over a simple color t-shirt, sneakers, ripped jeans and partnered them with a beanie or cap or for very few hoodies over denim jackets.

extra messages 🌱

artist, old, h, r, p, f, y, shopping malls, meeting in a concert, kitchen, mentally and spiritually strong, experienced of being poor, romance songs, dye and highlights hair, love letter and cold aura.

Pile five

This person is into dark academic fashion. For men, I'm getting like a nerd one—they might wear thick-rimmed glasses, neutral colors of blazers with simple cardigans and trousers, and turtleneck sweaters. For women, they wear Mary Jane shoes with socks worn, a plaid skirt, a blouse, a vintage watch, and I'm also seeing short heels and a flat dress. For the rest of this pile, they like to dress themselves with the fashion of light academia.

extra messages 🌱

potterheads, libra, tea, travel, books, greeks and gothic , poetry, academic vibe, cold weather, well-built, tall, serious, "you know nothing about me", worried, play instruments especially guitar, violin and piano, 636 angel number, ideal type, curly hair, brown hair and eyes.

Pile six

The pile number one and five may have some messages for you, read them if you are attracted to them. There is nothing fashion-style here I can called, but they do like to wear big t-shirts; they always wear those. They might even have a bunch of them. I'm getting someone who likes to wear white t-shirts, like they have a sulk of them or they buy a lot of them and they wear them every day with whatever occasion it is, while for special events they might wear a polo or long-sleeve polo shirt. For women, they like to wear long skirts.

extra messages 🌱

necklace, psychology, red car, water signs, small, "you make my day way more better" , chapped and dry lips, kisses on neck, cufflinks, goofy, kind, weird smile, helpful, tall, dark hair colors, abundance, transformation, long eye lashes, friendly, 25-30, "what?!" , pranks and long texts.

© tarotwithdanise ── all rights reserved. do not copy, translate, alter, or repost my work with or without my explicit permission.

#spotify #for you #pick a pile #pick a card #pick a card reading #tarot #tarot online #pick a pile reading #free tarot #tarot reading #pick a picture #pick an image #tarot pac #pac #pac tarot #pac reading #tarotcommunity #tarotblr #tarot blog #pile 1 #love reading #intuitive readings #free readings #free tarot reading #pile 2 #pile 3 #future spouse pick a card #future spouse reading #future spouse #tarotdaily

[blackswaneuroparedux]

The bikini is the most important thing since the atom bomb.

Diana Vreeland

The origins of contemporary bikini day may be traced back to a French engineer, a Parisian exotic dancer, a nuclear testing site in the United States, and a postwar fabric shortage.

In 1946, Western Europeans joyously greeted the first war-free summer in years, and French designers came up with fashions to match the liberated mood of the people. Two French designers, Jacques Heim and Louis Réard, developed competing prototypes of the bikini. Heim called his the “atom” and advertised it as “the world’s smallest bathing suit.”

French fashion designer Louis Reard was determined to create an even more scandalous swimsuit. Réard's swimsuit, which was basically a bra top and two inverted triangles of cloth connected by string, was in fact significantly smaller. Made out of a scant 30 inches of fabric, Réard promoted his creation as “smaller than the world’s smallest bathing suit.”

Réard claimed that the bikini was named for Bikini Atoll, the site of nuclear tests by the United States in the Pacific Ocean.

Louis Réard's bikini was so little that he couldn't find anyone brave enough to wear it. After being rejected by a number of fashion models, he came across Micheline Bernardini. She was a 19-year-old nudist at the Casino de Paris who consented to be the first to try on his daring bikini. Michelle Bernardini debuted this revealing costume at the Piscine Molitor in Paris during a poolside fashion show, and it revolutionised swimwear on 5 July 1946. The bikini was a hit, especially among men, and Bernardini received some 50,000 fan letters.

Before long, bold young women in bikinis were causing a sensation along the Mediterranean coast. Spain and Italy passed measures prohibiting bikinis on public beaches but later capitulated to the changing times when the swimsuit grew into a mainstay of European beaches in the 1950s. Réard's business soared, and in advertisements he kept the bikini mystique alive by declaring that a two-piece suit wasn’t a genuine bikini “unless it could be pulled through a wedding ring.”

But it really took when what we would call cultural influencers took to it. It was in 1953, thanks to Brigitte Bardot, that the bikini became a "must-have" and the history of the bikini became historic, when she was photographed wearing one on the Carlton beach at the Cannes Film Festival. She also wore one in 1956, in the film "Et Dieu… créa la femme".

The United States also caught on to the trend, as it was only two years later that Ursula Andress posed in a white bikini on the poster for the James Bond film, Dr. No. The poster created a considerable marketing coup, and women adopted the bikini. According to a study by Time, 65% of younger women adopted the bikini in 1967.

There is no question the bikini is hardly modern. Many think they date back to ancient Roman times because of the murals uncovered in excavated ruins in Sicily. This isn’t really true.

Despite the celebrated images from the mosaics in Piazza Armerina, of the ancient Roman girl wearing what looks like a bikini, the answer is, “not really”.  The ancient Roman girls weren’t even first to wear what to our eyes looks like a bikini. However, the fact that we seem to find “bikinis” in ancient depictions should make us rethink our hubristic bias that we in modern times have invented everything and that people in ancient times didn’t know how to live.

Archaeologists have found evidence of bikini-like garments that date to as far back as 5600 BC. That’s roughly 5000 years before the Romans did so. In the Chalcolithic era of around 5600 BC, the mother-goddess of Çatalhöyük, a large ancient settlement in southern Anatolia, was depicted astride two leopards while wearing a bikini-like costume.

Two-piece garments worn by women for athletic purposes are depicted on Greek urns and paintings dating back to 1400 BC. In fact, even just the notion that women participated in sports in the ancient world should make us sit up and take notice.

Today we tend to imagine women in the ancient world as being practically sequestered in their homes, spinning, weaving and having babies. But this is a gross oversimplification of their role.

Active women of ancient Greece wore a breast band called a mastodeton or an apodesmos, which continued to be used as an undergarment in the Middle Ages. While men in ancient Greece abandoned the perizoma, partly high-cut briefs and partly loincloth, women performers and acrobats continued to wear it.

In the famous mosaics to be found at Villa Romana del Casale in Piazza Armerina, the girls who seem to be wearing the “bikini” are Roman and the so-called bikini had already been around for at least 5,000 years by then. In the artwork “Coronation of the Winner” done in floor mosaic in the Chamber of the Ten Maidens (Sala delle Dieci Ragazze) in Sicily the bikini girls are depicted weight-lifting, discus throwing, and running.

The bikini was gradually done away as Christianity became more influential as the centuries wore on. Christian attitudes towards swimming restricted the clothing of women for centuries, the bikini disappeared from the historical record after the Romans until the early 20th century with Louis Beard’s re-invention of the two piece bathing suit as the ‘bikini’.

Photos: In 1956 Emilio Pucci designed this bikini inspired by the mosaics of the Villa Romana Del Casale in Sicily.

#vreeland #diana vreeland #bikini #femme #history #fashion #style #woman #louis reard #bathing suit #beach #ancient rome #ruins #inspiration #ancient world #bikini atoll #atomic bomb #paris #italy #sicily #culture #society

[francispeaks]

The Decline of Luxury

Luxury fashion has long been synonymous with timeless elegance, superior craftsmanship, and exclusivity. However, in recent years, a growing concern has arisen in the industry regarding the declining quality of luxury brands. Many fashion enthusiasts and critics argue that the pursuit of profit and the fast-paced nature of the fashion industry have led to a compromise in the quality of these prestigious brands.

Bernard Arnault and the Changing Landscape of Luxury

Bernard Arnault, the influential businessman and chairman of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, has played a pivotal role in reshaping the luxury fashion landscape. He has transformed LVMH into a global powerhouse, with a portfolio of more than 70 iconic brands including Louis Vuitton, Moet & Chandon, and Hennessy.

While his influence has undoubtedly been substantial, it has not always been beneficial for the industry as a whole. For the last two decades, Arnault has been at the forefront of big-name luxury brands, often with the goal of expanding their reach and profitability. However, this expansion has come at a cost.

In the 90s, luxury fashion felt untouchable. The prices were high ( not as high as in today’s age ), but they were justified by the exquisite craftsmanship and exclusivity that these brands offered. Luxury fashion was an aspirational status symbol for those who could afford it, and it wasn’t just about that status, it was about the craftsmanship of the Haute-Couture, the eye to detail in every piece, the piece of garments that was made for you and lasted for generations to come.

Arnault's vision, on the other hand, aimed to make luxury more accessible to a wider audience. We all know what that means– if brands want to appeal to the global audience, then they need to think quickly, craft it quickly, and sell it quickly. This shift in strategy has led to the popularization of luxury goods, but it has also resulted in a saturation of the market and a decline in quality.

The Erosion of Quality

One of the most significant consequences of the luxury fashion industry's rapid expansion and mass-market accessibility has been the erosion of quality. In the pursuit of profit and market share, many luxury brands have cut corners in production, using cheaper materials and less skilled labor. This cost-cutting approach has compromised the quality and craftsmanship that were once the hallmark of luxury fashion.

Luxury brands that were once renowned for their attention to detail and commitment to excellence have fallen victim to the desire for higher profit margins. The result is that products are now more costly and of inferior quality compared to their 80s and 90s counterparts. In an era where consumers are increasingly seeking value and authenticity, this decline in quality raises concerns about the long-term sustainability of luxury brands.

The Impact on Consumers

As luxury fashion brands chase higher revenues and broader customer bases, they risk alienating their loyal, long-standing customers who expect nothing less than the best. This shift in focus from quality to quantity has begun to manifest itself in the mass market as well, where discerning customers are beginning to notice the diminishing quality of luxury goods.

For example, luxury handbags that were once known for their durability and timeless design may now show signs of wear and tear more quickly, ( I am looking at you Louis Vitton ). Garments from renowned fashion houses may lack the same attention to detail in their stitching and finishes ( Versace isn’t the same anymore, I said what we are all thinking ). This decline in quality not only affects the brand's reputation but also creates a sense of disillusionment among consumers who once held these brands in high esteem.

The Future of Luxury Fashion

The decline in quality within the luxury fashion industry is a cause for concern, as it threatens the very essence of what luxury represents. While Bernard Arnault's vision of accessibility and market expansion may have contributed to this issue ( as every Billionaire with a capitalistic dream does ), the industry as a whole must reevaluate its priorities.

To restore the integrity of luxury fashion, brands need to refocus on craftsmanship, quality, and exclusivity. It's essential for luxury brands to strike a balance between making their products more accessible without compromising on the standards that made them iconic in the first place. By delivering on the promise of superior quality, luxury brands can regain the trust of their discerning customer base and ensure the long-term sustainability of their legacy.

I want to see seems well done by a seamstress who still values Haute-Couture, I want brands to value traditional craftmanship and use it in their collection and get inspired by it for decades, I want Designers to not fall into the temptation of money, I want fashion to slow down and know that the detail matters, because you will be remembered by it.

However, is not just the brands that are to blame, is the clients too, clients that don’t dare to question quality any longer or get curious about how their garments and pieces are constructed, there is no sense to the word "quality" any longer because all we wear and accept to wear is polyester or polyamide, a jacket with non-straight seems, or a seem that breaks after a week, heels that break as you walk, bags that get destroyed because you used it.

We need to question Lvmh brands and other Luxury Fashion brands on how are they so expensive and how they make their clothing, just like we question Fast Fashion Brands on how their clothes are so cheap.

#fashion #style #couture #fashion blog #fashion style #gowns #fashion writer #fashion wear #fashion world #fashion women #fashion week #fashion journalism #journal #journaling #writers on tumblr #writerscommunity #writing #writing community #vogue #vogue magazine #editorial #painter #magazine #essay #essay writing #journalism #journalists #fashion journalist #fashion luxury #luxury

[voxina]

More about the brand of the tank top wore by Louis on stage in Panama City.

Designed and founded by openly gay actor Luke Evans and his life partner, architect Fran Tomas, and renowned stylist Christopher Brown, BDXY (pronounced “buddy”) is a playful combination of “bold” and “sexy“, reflecting the line's aesthetic, inspired by old Hollywood glamour.

BDXY is a 12-piece collection of classics that include a tee, vest, underwear, swimwear, shorts, a towel, a tote bag, and even a candle.

"It’s evident looking at the collection, from the hazy summery colours, to the quality of the collection that every detail has been thought out by the trio. The clothes have a classic 1950s. old Hollywood feel to them. Pieces like shell shorts time travel to another iconic era of fashion, the 70s, creating an evergreen vintage touch to BDXY. The Marlon Brandon heartthrob illusion is aided by having an actual A-list film and TV actor sitting in front of me, wearing BDXY as he enthusiastically discusses the clothes with a velvety Welsh accent."

Full interview here:

#louis tomlinson #the stunt #coded fashion #coded clothing #louis' fashion #BDXY #luke evans #queer fashion

[thescoobyscholar]

The History of Zoinks (Essay)

Includes an etymological and cultural analysis of the usage of "jeepers," "jinkies," and "zoinks." Another post will include the follow-up study.

If you grew up watching Scooby-Doo, it may be easy to assume that groovy green tees, ascots, and vans painted with flowers were all standard 60s fare. However, recall that these teens were not written by teens; when the first episode aired, character designer Iwao Takamoto was 41, main writer Bill Lutz was 47, and creators Joe Ruby and Ken Spears were 36 and 31, respectively. Were they already out of touch? As put by Paul Dini, writer on Scooby-Doo! Abracadabra-Doo: “When you look at those characters, they are characters frozen in time. They’re not really what hippies or hipsters or cool kids were like. They’re what 50-year olds thought cool kids were like” (“Scooby Doo! The Whole World Loves You”).

The most iconic quantifiers of how close these characters were to the “cool kids” is their catchphrases: “jeepers,” “jinkies,” and “zoinks!” When we hear the cartoon’s catchphrases, which claim to characterize this era, we must ask: Did people really say these things? Even though these terms are almost exclusively associated with the franchise today, these words were not born for marketing. The writers were pulling from memories, trends, and histories which, if we trace backwards, may glean some evidence as to their cultural accuracy.

Daphne’s classic “jeepers” is said to have been first penned in 1928 by cartoonist Billy DeBeck, whose popular Barney Google strips coined similar terms as “heebie-jeebies” and “holy moly” (Chakraborty and Dosad 117). The true origin of the word is likely several decades earlier, as Google’s catchphrase “Horsefeathers!” was already coming out of fashion among the construction workers that used it when DeBeck revived it in his parody of Appalachian colloquialisms (Funk and Funk ix-x). At the time DeBeck picked up “jeepers,” it was used as a euphemism for “Jesus!” (Harper, “Etymology of jeepers”).

However, the Scooby-Doo writers were more likely to be familiar with Al Donahue’s song “Jeepers Creepers” (as in, “Jeepers creepers, where’d you get those peepers?”). The song jumped high enough in America’s popular music charts in 1939 that it was covered by Louis Armstrong, Larry Clinton, and later Frank Sinatra (Whitburn 533). As an alteration of “Jesus Christ,” the flexible phrase was perfect for bouncy love ballads (“Oh, those weepers, how they hypnotize!”) and as a horror movie motif in Jeepers Creepers. The fact that the film was released in 2001 speaks to the staying power of “jeepers.”

As for Velma’s catchphrase, “jinkies,” it may be a variation of a number of old Scots terms dating around the 18th-19th century, so you may as well pick your favorite: a synonym for “jauntily” (as “jink,” to dodge or flee; nowadays “to juke” may be applicable), a nonsense word in nursery rhymes (e.g., “Eetum, peetum, penny pie / Cock a lory, jinky jye”), or a child’s nightgown (Dictionary of the Scots Language); a type of knitted fingerless glove (see Kate Davies Designs); or yet, as a derivation of “high jinks,” a drinking game that dates back to at least the 17th century (Harper, “Etymology of jinkies”).

The term was first recorded as exclamation “By jinkies!” in the newspaper strip “Ella Cinders” in 1936. The first recorded use of the term by a human (assuming comic characters can’t mail in letters to the local paper) was in a 1938 edition of the Northern-Courier in the sports section. Ray writes: “By jinkies, on my next pass day I will surely stop and see that 178 foot wheelbase, fire truck. If I can’t make it in one day maybe I can get an extension. Some truck.” (How many feet is the Mystery Machine’s wheelbase, I wonder…?) Again, “jinkies” is preceded by “by,” which Velma, as we all know, would choose to omit. By Scooby’s birthday, the term was popular among college students and “overly earnest” speakers (Iseli), fitting for the youngest of the gang who is always piping up with a clue to prove her intellectual merit.

Unlike “jeepers” and “jinkies,” which have decent pedigrees preceding Scooby-Doo, neither “zoinks” nor “zoink” directly appear in any written work before 1969, although they have a number of distant cousins. The closest approximation comes from television: a famous bit in 1958’s “Robin Hood Daffy” where Daffy swings from tree to tree, calling, “Zoiks, and away!” with each jump, only to crash face-first into a tree every time. His iconic lisp makes it difficult to parse whether he’s saying “zoiks” or “yoiks.” The latter would seem more likely, as “yoiks” and its sister “hoiks” have a long history as hunting words. On a bright and early morning in 1843, Sir Godfrey calls for his friend to hurry and saddle up: “Hoik, 'squire! . . . hoik, hoik! High wind him! Drag on him, yoiks, tally-ho!" (Mills 125). On the tail of a fox chase in 1774, a hunter in pursuit exclaims, “Yoiks, hark forward!” (Kelly 6). Contextually, neither sound too far from the modernized “Zoinks, let’s scram, Scoob!” The first “zoiks” was penned around 1584, in a sonnet of all things: “With mightie maters mynd I not to mell, / As copping Courts, or Comonwelthis, or Kings / Quhais craig zoiks fastest, let tham sey thame sell; / My thoght culd nevir think vpon sik things” (Montgomery 1–4). I can’t claim a clue about what the rest means, but “zoiks fastest” leads me to think this is a “jink”/”juke” situation; in “zoiking”, the narrator is fleeing from the cowersome courts, commonwealths, and kings. Coincidentally, “mynd I not to mell” sounds almost adjacent to “meddle,” another word popularized by Scooby-Doo. All of the “zoinks” family are employed as interjections preceding movement.*

In sum, while “jinkies” appears to have had some relevance at the time of Scooby-Doo’s inception, “jeepers” is a bit dated in comparison, and “zoinks” has a vast etymological tree but no direct precursors. The advantage to having a cast of characters who are, in the words of Paul Dini, “frozen in time,” is that they are living time capsules. We can choose any point within 50 years and see unique perceptions of culture, politics, music, style, and our focus: vocabulary. But how well do these perceptions line up with reality?

*All, that is, except one. “Yoiks” may also be used to refer to egg yolks, as in a cookbook from 1762: “Take a large Fowl, or a Pound of Veal, as much grated Bread, half a Pound of Sewet . . . Mace, two Cloves, half a Nutmeg grated, about a large Tea Spoonful of Lemon-peel, and the Yoiks of two Eggs” (Glasse 38). Add an olive toothpick on top and you have a Shaggy sandwich!

References

Chakraborty, Pritesh, and Anuradha Dosad. “Comic Monthly 1922: Exploring Form and Themes.” Department of English, Vidyasagar University, vol. 15, 2022, pp. 112–125.

“Ella Cinders.” Montana Standard, 29 Sept. 1936, p. 11.

Funk, Charles Earle, and Charles Earle Funk. “Foreword.” Horsefeathers, and Other Curious Words, Harper & Row, New York, 1958, pp. Ix–x.

Glasse, Hannah. “Made-Dishes.” The New Art of Cookery, Made Plain and Easy, John Exshaw, 1762, pp. 38–39.

Harper, Douglas. “Etymology of jink.” Online Etymology Dictionary, 28 Sept. 2017, https://www.etymonline.com/word/jink.

Iseli, Marcel. “Jinkies! You’ll Never Believe What Velma’s Catchphrase Means.” Linguablog, Iseli International Commerce, 18 Sept. 2022, linguaholic.com/linguablog/jinkies-scooby-doo/.

"Jinkie." Dictionary of the Scots Language, Scottish Language Dictionaries Ltd, 2004, http://www.dsl.ac.uk/entry/snd/jinkie_adj

Kate Davies Designs. “Jinkies Pattern.” Ravelry, SARK, Nov. 2021, www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/jinkies.

Kelly, Hugh. “Epilogue.” The Romance of an Hour: A Comedy of Two Acts in Prose. G. Kearsley, 1774, line 6.

Mills, John. “A Meet of the Olden Time.” Ainsworth’s Magazine, edited by William Harrison Ainsworth, vol. 4, Chapman and Hall, London, 1843, p. 125.

Montgomery, Alexander. “To R. Hudsone (Sonnet 2).” The Poems of Alexander Montgomery, edited by David Irving, James Ballantyne and Company, 1821, pp. 76.

Szymborska, Wislawa. “Moment.” Monologue of a Dog. Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2005, pp.11-13.

Ray. “Diamond Dust.” The Courier-Northerner, 29 July 1938, p. 8.

"Scooby Doo! The Whole World Loves You." Scooby-Doo, Where Are You! The Complete 1st and 2nd Seasons, produced by Hanna-Barbera and Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc, 2010. DVD.Whitburn, Joel. “The Songs.” Joel Whitburn’s Pop Memories 1890 - 1954: The History of American Popular Music, Record Research Inc, Menomonee Falls, WI, 1986, p. 533.

#essay #SDWAY #catchphrases

[dwreader]

st. louis days 4 & 8: fashion through the decades, an ldpdl fashion (speculative) retrospective pt 2

1970s-1980s: we see from the 1970s flashback that louis has returned to the states from europe by this decade and is cruising the night life scene with armand, so he likely will be embracing the groovier fashion trends of the decade (colorful shirts, bell bottoms, big hair). we also see that his hair is no longer treated but worn natural and we get some idea of what he'd wear on a casual night out (he likes denim). in more day to day wear, i think he would be influenced by the boxy tailored looks of pam grier, bianca jagger and princess diana (shoulder pads!!!), since in his career era in the 1910s, louis was crazy about the girlboss power suit. i think he'd also like the billowy designs of versace in the 80s, which we still see somewhat in his fashion choices in dubai 2022 (see the scene where he serves daniel a martini). he also loves a pair of cunty sunglasses so i see him embracing the big ass sunglasses trend.

#iwtvfanevents #st. louis day 4 #iwtv #fashion #costume analysis #gonna post the final parts on day 8

[hyunjining]

louis AND harry in their fashion designer eras? cute tbh

[thepastisalreadywritten]

Could pink be Earth’s oldest color? That’s the implication of a 2018 study that found bright-pink pigments in 1.1 billion-year-old rocks — thanks to the fossils of the billions of tiny cyanobacteria that once dominated oceans.

The natural world has long been painted with every permutation of pink — whether embedded deep in ancient rock, sported by shrimp-hungry flamingoes, or simply lining the shores of Bermuda’s pink-sand beaches.

And yet the color carries a lot of cultural baggage.

As pink made the jump from nature’s palette to human adornment, it gathered connotations of colonialism, beauty, power, and gender.

How did pink become such a cultural flashpoint? As the world takes a revitalized interest in the hot-pink planet inhabited by Barbie, here’s a short history of the compelling color.

Admiration for pink in the ancient world

Early humans quickly transitioned from admiring pink in the natural world to attempting to wear it.

For example, in the Andes Mountains about 9,000 years ago, fierce hunters in what is now Peru wore tailored leather clothing with a pink hue thanks to red ochre, an iron oxide pigment that is one of the oldest natural pigments used by humans.

Humans weren’t content just to smear this pigment on cave walls or use it while tanning their leather garments.

As far back as ancient Egypt, humans used ochre to tint their lips and cheeks.

When applied to human skin, the red pigment created a blush-like pink that onlookers associated with love, sexuality, and beauty.

Lookalike concoctions prevailed around the world, employing everything from crushed strawberries to red amaranth.

The color of cosmetics—and colonialism

Though the word’s etymology is unknown, the word “pink” was used to describe the color in the 18th century.

By then, pink had become inextricably tied with colonialism — as demand for the pigment for cosmetics drove Europeans to harvest natural resources in other parts of the world.

For example, in a bid to make pinkish pigments from the bark and red sap of brazilwood trees, European traders forced enslaved workers to cut down so many of Brazil’s eponymous trees that the country was left deforested and the tree nearly driven extinct.

During this Era of Exploration, consumers also got their pink cheeks and lips from other pigments like carmine, derived from cochineal insects harvested in Central and South America under similar conditions.

Meanwhile, the color also had a more literal association with colonialism:

During this time, the British Empire grew so massive that the color pink — which mapmakers used to mark its territories worldwide — dominated the world map.

Pink becomes a bona fide fashion craze

As red tints became more accessible and cheaper, 18th-century European aristocrats indulged a passion for pink.

Art historian Michel Pastoureau writes that “the most privileged classes of European society wanted pastels, halftones, and the newest innovations in color shades in order to distinguish themselves from the middle classes, who now had access to bright, strong, and reliable colors.”

Madame de Pompadour, the mistress of Louis XV of France during the 1740s and 1750s, used the color as a signature.

The artists who painted her and created fine objects for her many homes used pink in all their designs, even her carriages, and she helped further popularize the hue throughout Europe.

The emergence of synthetic dyes in the mid-19th century — which gave rise to the purple-pink color known as mauve — made pink more accessible than ever before.

By the 1930s, bright pink had become a bona fide fashion craze.

Avant-garde fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli made “shocking pink” her signature color, helping spread the vogue for women’s wear.

It worked: By 1935, even local newspapers like the News and Observer in Raleigh, North Carolina, were declaring that “PINK IS FAVORITE.”

And in 1939, a royal commentator wrote in London’s Daily Telegraph that pink was so popular, it was nearly ubiquitous for both bridesmaids and debutantes.

“So general is the pink craze,” the paper wrote, “that some women are rebelling against it.”

Pink is for…boys?

Around the same time, pink gained relevance in another realm: baby fashion.

Gender and baby fashion had intersected for years; around World War I, etiquette guides and fashion advice columns began advising that mothers dress their children in clothing with gender-specific hues.

But which colors? A 1927 retailer survey on infant clothing colors published in TIME shows a split nation, with retailers like Filene’s and Marshall Field’s recommending pink for boys, but Macy’s, Bullock’s, and others claiming pink was best for girls.

By the 1960s, however, mothers began buying pink clothing for their female babies, dressing their male children in pastel blues.

“None of this transition happened by childcare expert fiat or industry proclamation,” writes historian Jo B. Paoletti.

Instead, pink gained steam as a signifier of a baby’s female sex as part of a post-World War II push to reinforce traditional gender roles in American homes — and the realization by retailers that they could make more money that way.

“The more baby clothing could be designed for an individual child — and sex was the easiest and most obvious way to distinguish babies — the harder it would be for parents to hand down clothing from one child to the next, and the more clothing they would have to buy as their family grew,” Paoletti writes.

Soon, retailers featured entire “pink aisles” packed with pink-colored clothing and toys for tiny consumers.

The dark side of pink

Pink was also rejected by some as a symbol of weakness or even sinister intent.

In Nazi Germany, for example, the color was used to brand gay men in concentration and death camps.

As the Cold War emerged, suspected Communist sympathizers were given the derogatory name of “pinkos” — a term that referred to a person with “red” tendencies toward radical politics.

Meanwhile, members of the women’s liberation movement attempted to distance themselves from a color that had become inextricably linked with femininity and sexuality — think: Marilyn Monroe slinking down a staircase in a shocking pink gown, surrounded by tuxedoed men.

Anti-feminists, meanwhile, embraced pink.

Author Helen B. Andelin, for example, made public appearances in all-pink ensembles in the 1960s and 1970s during lectures encouraging women to abandon feminism and embrace lives as housewives.

Reclaiming pink

Pink remains associated with femininity to this day — but in recent decades, groups once disdainfully branded with the color have made moves to reclaim it.

In the LGBTQ community, for example, people who were once forced to wear pink as outcasts have adopted the hue as a symbol of their movement for social justice.

In 1987, the AIDS Coalition to Unleash Power (ACT UP) adopted a bubble-gum pink triangle in its “Silence = Death” campaign to increase awareness of HIV-AIDS and destigmatize the disease.

It was just one example of pink being used to represent gay pride.

Some feminists have also reclaimed the color, fighting gender stereotypes with a tongue-in-cheek adoption of all shades of rose, fuchsia, and bubble-gum pink.

At the 2017 Women’s March, for example, a sea of protesters wearing pink, cat-eared “pussy hats” protested the inauguration of U.S. President Donald Trump, whose lewd remarks about female genitalia during a leaked interview drew worldwide condemnation.

Today, pink is what you make of it — and it has grown in popularity once more.

In 2016, Pantone announced that a shade of dusty pink — dubbed Millennial Pink for the generation that had embraced it—was its Color of the Year.

This year, Greta Gerwig’s upcoming Barbie movie helped fuel the rise of the pink-drenched “Barbiecore” aesthetic, inspiring admirers to saturate their homes and wardrobes with every shade of pink.

According to Axios, searches for the term “Barbiecore aesthetic room” rose over 1,000 percent between May 2022 and May 2023, reflecting consumers’ craving for as-pink-as-possible interiors.

There’s no telling which permutation of pink will captivate us next — but given the colorful history of the hues that fall somewhere between white and red, pink’s next heyday is probably right around the corner.

Barbie would approve of the pink petals on this beach morning glory.

Pink flowers like this one get their rosy tinge from a group of biological pigments called anthocyanins, which attract pollinators — and human admirers — to colors ranging from the palest carnation to the most ostentatious tropical fuchsia.

#pink #red ochre #carmine #Era of Exploration #Madame de Pompadour #Louis XV of France #mauve #Elsa Schiaparelli #gender #baby fashion #colors #Helen B. Andelin #AIDS Coalition to Unleash Power (ACT UP) #Pantone #Millennial Pink #Barbie #Nat Geo #fashion #political movement #Marilyn Monroe #Zsa Zsa Gabor #pigment

[berlinini]

So this year Louis released his documentary, his 28 fashion line, held his own AFHF, been traveling the world touring impressive venues, and now announced his solo artist festival era. The amount of work it takes to conceptualize, plan and execute each one of these endeavors is massive. Yet everyone from hater’s to ex bandmates describe him as someone that just sits around drinking and smoking. His brain never shuts off.

He truly never stops working which makes me super curious about the footage of him in the studio.... Even if that recording wasn't for LT3 I wouldn't be surprised that he's already writing or thinking about a new album....

Can't wait for the next drop of 28OP and also to see the shows in Latam - knowing how he's involved with stage design I wonder how things will be for a bigger venue.

Louis has shown time and time again that hard work, dedication, patience, intelligence, authenticity, paying your dues, honing your craft, etc, is a recipe for success - success that takes longer to achieve but isn't bought for and feels earned.

"They never see us coming!"

#answered ask #anon #they hate to see a hot girl win

[fashionbooksmilano]

Art X Fashion

Fashion Inspired by Art

Nancy Hall-Duncan

Foreword Valerie Steele

Rizzoli Electa, New York 2022, 176 pages, 20.83 x 26.16 cm,  ISBN  9780847872398

euro 42,00

email if you want to buy :[email protected]

In 75 eye-popping pairings of designer pieces and the artworks that inspired them, this stylish book reveals the art behind coveted fashion designs. Long before “collabs” became a buzzword, artists influenced every aspect of the fashion world. This approachable collection compares fashion and art side-by-side to highlight a variety of relationships: inspiration, collaboration, and artists working to create their own fashion or fashion photography. Art X Fashion introduces readers to designers like Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli, who famously worked with artists like Picasso and Dalí in the early twentieth century, as well as to such iconic fashion moments as Yves Saint Laurent’s 1965 homage to Piet Mondrian. Art and fashion pairings including John Galliano (inspired by Tutankhamun’s death mask, Arcimboldo, Gustav Klimt, and Hokusai), Guo Pei (inspired by Velázquez), Margiela (inspired by Gaugin), and Iris Van Herpen (inspired by Paul Delvaux), reveal surprising connections. Projects by street artists like Keith Haring and Kaws introduce the era of collaborations, which saw artists such as Yayoi Kusama and Takashi Murakami work with Louis Vuitton. More recent collaborations include Raf Simons with Sterling Ruby and Kerby Jean-Raymond with Derrick Adams. Chapters on striking purses and other accessories designed by artists, and artists creating in fashion—including Cindy Sherman, William Wegman, and John Baldessari—round out this fresh and delightful take on fashion design.

15/01/23

orders to:     [email protected]

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#Art X Fashion #fashion inspired by art #Nancy Hall-Duncan #Valerie Steele #Chanel #Schiaparelli #YSL #Galliano #Guo Pei #Margiela #Iris Van Herpen #Keith Haring #Murakami #Vuitton #Raf Simons #Cindy Sherman #John Baldessari #William Wegman #fashion books #fashionbooksmilano