The Dramatic Shirtwaist at the Grand Rapids Public Museum
I usually think of shirtwaist as puffy, printed, light-colored cotton garment like the one worn by my great grandmother, but of course, a shirtwaist, or blouse could come in any color.This one is part of the Fashion and Nature exhibition at the Grand Rapids Public Museum, part of the section on cotton and shirtwaists.
As you can see, it is an over-the-top design of excessive details and embellishments. The sheer black fabric is pleated down the sleeves, and each pleat is marked by a red velvet ball. The blacks backed with white, and lace trims the cuffs. Then lace collar has a red band outlining it as well as a red ribbon at the top of its high neckline and red bows to shut its surplice front. Don’t forget the red balls and bands at the shoulders. You can see why It reminded me of Elizabeth Phelps, the dress reformer who complained in 1873 that women’s fashion had become “a meaningless dazzle of broken effects.” This blouse dates to the early 20th Century, but the eye finds no rest as it travels up and down and across. No wonder the Dress Doctors kept harping on simplicity. Their eyes had been exhausted.
For more on this exhibition, go here: https://www.grpm.org/fashion-and-nature/
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i can finally show off the Necromancer trench since theyre going into production now!
100% cotton twill outside, cotton printed lining inside, sizes s-3xl! the initial release will be limited but if they sell well theyll be back, with other designs too 🤍
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HETEROSEXUAL CIS-PEOPLE LOOK HERE
Snaps my fingers at you as you scroll past this post
Look at me. Listen.
I'm not the best at serious posts, but that article up there reminded me of how important it is that people like you stand up for us. So hold on while I try to get this out of my mushy end-of-work-day brain.
We could fight this fight ourselves for decades trying to reach the equal laws, gender affirming trans healthcare that doesn't have a 2-5+ soul-eating years of waiting time, medical care with equal knowledge of lgbtqia+ bodies, and, what is often forgotten, inclusion in the little everyday areas of life like our way of speaking or things being set up or designed with the existence of queer people in mind.
But you joining in could get us there so much faster.
The power you have as a hetero cis person is that you set the standard for what is seen as the average way of treating us among other hetero cis people. You have been given the power of deciding what's "normal" and I'm begging you to use it.
Richard Green is a great example of to what extent your actions can help our situation, and smaller ways of support still add up to a great impact on society, and could make the days of the queer people you interact with.
Educate yourself before you speak up, but don't be silent.
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Suits Can Be So Much Fun: 1960 Suit at Fashion and Nature
When many people think of suits, they think boring. But women’s suits from the early to late 20th Century were sometimes tons of fun. They came in all kinds of styles and fabrics, always being an important part of women’s wardrobes for office work and city outings. During the 1950s, they were often fitted through the waist, just like dresses were. You see here a simple, unfitted shape which was the early 1960s fashion and a straight skirt just below the knee.
This bright pink suit dates to 1960 according to the curators of Fashion and Nature at the Grand Rapids Public Museum. It has no label apparently which I find interesting. Is the label simply missing or was this custom made for someone? We do know it is made of mohair fabric which comes from the fibers of the angora goat which means it is soft and fuzzy. Mohair sweaters became an important fashion in sweaters in the late 1950s and early 1960s, so the fiber was trending. And the matching trim is actual fox fur which signaled luxury then.
The result is a stunningly playful suit perfect for an evening party. The shape itself is simple, but the color and the trim turn it into something dramatic. Keep this in mind as you consider making evening wear. A suit pattern, matched with the right fabric, could make something wonderful. So says a woman who is pondering making a suit jacket out of an old gold wool and silk suiting that has spent far too long in her sewing room.
For more on the Grand Rapids exhibition, go here: https://www.grpm.org/fashion-and-nature/
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Ghillie Suit by Roy Michael (2023)
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